Wanderlust Spring Issue No. 77
The Ultimate Paris Experience
Also: Notre Dame’s Gargoyles The Charm of Mont St. Michel
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CONTENTS
Wanderlust
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jeannie Wong
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CONTRIBUTORS / SOURCES EUTouring Jennifer Ladone Rick Steves Unexplained Things Are Out There Blog Wikipedia
Cassady & Greene - Phoenix Script Font Mans Graback - Acryle Script Font
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PHOTO CREDITS Cover: Pro Travel; Contents (top to bottom): Christine Olson, Wander Lust My Love Blog, Anna Karina Buenaventura, All World Towns Blog; p.1 (clockwise from top left): Brad Lepper, Getty Images, Getty Images, Getty Images, Sassoferrato courtesy of Christie’s, Des Coulam; p. 2-3 (clockwise from top left): Gilles Pudlowski, Julien Herpers, Francois Grunberg, Paige Donner; p.4 (top to bottom): Wikipedia, Laurent Audouin; p.5 (top to bottom): The Telegraph, Machu; p.6 (top to bottom): Diliff, Grayline Tours.
Paris is the capital and most-populous city of France. This internationally renowned city epitomizes everything that is considered French and is known for its passion for food, art, fashion, history, and architecture. Once confined to an island in the middle of the Seine River, the Ile de la Cité, Paris, founded more than 2,000 years ago, quickly spread to both banks of the river. The right
NOTRE DAME’S GARGOYLES
The name “Paris” is derived from its early inhabitants, the Celtic Parisii tribe. Paris is known as the “The City of Love,” but is most often referred to as “The City of Light” because of its leading role in the Age of Enlightenment, and more literally because Paris was one of the first European cities to adopt gas street lighting.
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By UTAOT
SPECIAL THANKS
The Cathedral of Notre Dame is one of the
Some who are superstitious claim that the gro-
Special thanks to Socorro Soberano for sharing her wisdom and expertise!
oldest buildings in Paris, making its gargoyles
tesque figures frighten away evil spirits along
the City of Lights’ longest-term residents. Gar-
with serving its practical duty.
goyles are one of the many eerie stone figures bank is known as the commercial heart of the city and the left bank is known for its intellectual and cultural institutions.
The cathedral is considered a Gothic perfection and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. “Notre Dame” is the way the French say “Our Lady.”
that adorn the cathedral. “Gargoyle” comes from a Latin word, meaning gullet or drain. That’s what these creatures are: drain pipes! Each figure has a passageway inside that carries rainwater from the roof and out through the gargoyle’s mouth. These conspicuous stone creatures have carried rain from the roof of the Notre Dame for more than 600 years. They have allowed rainwater to fall free of the cathedral, thus preventing damage to the masonry.
After the introduction of the lead drain pipe in the 16th century, the gargoyles’ notoriety faded. Today, they are a favorite and mustsee attraction amongst visitors, history and architecture buffs, and readers of the novel, “The Hunchback of Notre Dame.” A comprehensive study of the creation and history of the gargoyles are detailed in a book by Medieval historian Michael Camille called “The Gargoyles of Notre-Dame: Medievalism and the Monsters of Modernity.
The Great Organ of Notre Dame is the largest organ in France and the most famous organ in the world that dates from 1401. Although there have been numerous changes that expanded it through the centuries, there are still some Medieval pipes that remain.
Notre Dame’s Gargoyles Wanderlust Magazine
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About Paris. Contents Wanderlust Magazine
Chimeras are often confused for gargoyles. The difference is that chimeras are completely decorative and do not serve as a water spout like gargoyles.
GRAPHICS
The Charm of Mont St. Michel Plan a pilgrimage to this architecturally dramatic Gothic island abbey.
Residents
GETTING TO KNOW NOTRE DAME
Spring Issue, No. 77, Volume 100
The Ultimate Paris Experience Make the most of your time in the City of Lights with our list of the best in dining, culture, and sight seeing.
The
The quarterly magazine for travel enthusiasts and global explorers.
Notre Dame’s Gargoyles Mysterious. Eerie. Grotesque. Yet, captivating and functional.
Meet
W
ith
so much to see and do in Paris, it’s hard
to narrow it down to the essentials, while still having an experience that’s a good balance of everything the city has to offer. The following list takes the crème de la crème of Paris—some well known, others off the beaten path—to help you plan a long weekend, savor over a longer trip, or enjoy over several visits. Most of all, the sites listed here make up le vrai Paris, and are sure to provide a memorable— and authentic—experience.
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THE ULTIMATE Paris Experience
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CULTURE Explore the Musée d’Orsay Housed under the soaring roof of one of Paris’s grand old Beaux Art railway stations, the recently renovated galleries Photos (clockwise,
of the Musée d’Orsay contain the world’s
from top left): Terrace
largest collection of impressionist mas-
dining at Mini Palais;
terpieces by the likes of Cezanne, Monet,
Musèe d’Orsay; the
Manet, Van Gogh, Degas, Gaugin, and
gardens at Musèe Car-
many others. With two excellent cafés
navalet; a beet cake at
and a magnificent restaurant original to
Restaurant l’Arpège.
the train station, dining is a breeze and
The Ultimate Paris Experience Wanderlust Magazine
The Ultimate Paris Experience Wanderlust Magazine
Story By Jennifer Ladone, Fodor
guided tours of the museum
enjoy an impromptu picnic.
ing two to four hour boat ride.
leries housed under the arches
highlights in English are available
Kids of all ages can:
The Bateaux Mouches offer
below. During the summer
every day (see the museum
ØØ Race their sailboats
everything from a gourmet
season, take in an outdoor
meal, a flute of champagne
movie, live music, or have a
or just sightseeing with com-
drink at the floating cocktail
mentary. Another option: the
lounge while enjoying gentle
Bateau Bus operates continu-
breezes from the Seine.
website for times and scheduling). There’s also a fabulous bookstore for stocking up on gifts.
in the basin behind the Sénat ØØ Romp in the enclosed children’s’ playground ØØ Take in a puppet show ØØ Ride the city’s oldest carousel
this stately 18th-century mansion
This three-mile walkway of
shopping of the Ile Saint-
Orchards and the Old Apiary,
verdant gardens atop the Via-
Louis. A perfect walk for flan-
where beekeeping is taught
duc des Arts, a former railway,
eurs just taking in the majestic
has something for everyone:
facades and quiet courtyards of
ØØ Flower gardens ØØ Climbing rose arbors
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autumn season.
museums and contains more than 6,000 of Rodin’s sculp-
There’s nothing quite like see-
ØØ Fountains ØØ Sculptures ØØ Wonderful vistas of
Using the freshest produce from his own garden outside Paris, Chef Alain Passard rev-
pedestrian bridge leads to the
olutionized fine dining sin-
atmospheric streets and lively
gle-handedly. He completely removed meat from his menu and showed the world that Particuliers (private man-
beautiful 17th-century man-
Take in the Views from the Eiffel Tower
sions. Along the way, enjoy
Crowded though it may be,
standard Parisian fare at a brasserie or sample one of 90 scrumptious flavors of hand-
ing Paris from a boat on the
terpieces the thinker, the kiss,
Seine—and there’s no lack of
the Burghers of Calais, and the
boats to choose from. See Par-
A refreshing respite, the Prom-
wild strawberry, noisette, rum
gates of hell, along with 8,000
is’s graceful bridges up close
raisin, and white chocolate
drawings and gouaches. The
enade Plantée is a great place
along with the city’s most
—at Bertillor, Paris’s most
lovely grounds of the Musée
for an early morning jog or
famous landmarks on a relax-
shopping at the artisan gal-
famous ice cream maker.
Paris streets
you can’t do better than din-
Gardens, the Pont Saint-Louis
tures, including his great mas-
made, all-natural ice creams and sorbets —in flavors like
Strolling the Rue des Martyrs
vegetables prepared simply
and Cognacq-Jay Museum),
Paris’s old market streets are
up to a most memorable din-
the Eiffel Tower is still Par-
great restaurants, cafés, Par-
often overlooked. If you visit
is’s most beloved monument,
only one, this bustling street
ing experience.
is’s famous old Jewish quar-
but there’s much more here
ter, and the lovely place des
full of fromageries, boulange-
than a just spectacular view:
vosges make it a must.
ries, and boucheries should
Ice-skating in winter, a trea-
sions), great museums (Musée Picasso, Musée Carnavalet,
exhibitions, and fun gift and souvenir boutiques. Lunch at
A cabinet of curiosities par
thing from fruit to fish share
the new 58 tour Eiffel on the
excellence, the superb taxi-
the street with newer, more
first floor, or enjoy an elegant
dermist Deyrolle has been
high-end shops and cafés.
dinner at le Jules Verne. There
charming and educating Pari-
delightful afternoon outdoors.
are also two well-priced cafés
sians since 1831. More like an
The museum also hosts spe-
with healthy lunch fare.
enchanted forest filled with a
tain, rose gardens, and a pleasant outdoor café make for a
sure hunt for kids, special
contemporary works.
Take a Stroll in the Luxembourg Gardens
SHOPPING Enjoy an Afternoon in the Marais
Traipsing Through Covered Passages
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market for over 200 years, the older purveyors of every-
Chocolate Crawl
FOOD & DINING Terrace Pleasures at Mini Palais With sweeping views of the
in the storied SaintGermain-des-Prés Something miraculous has happened in this most storied of
The charming vestiges of a
Seine and the Eiffel Tower, the
left bank neighborhoods—it’s
time long past, these beau-
large, open terrace at the new
become chocolate central of
embourg Gardens. Bordered
Hands down the best shop-
tifully preserved passages with
Monsieur Bleu Restaurant at
France. Within less than a sin-
by Saint-Germain-des-Prés
ping neighborhood in Paris,
glass ceilings and marble walls
the Palais de Tokyo Center for
and the Latin quarter, these
the Marais is so much more.
offer a cornucopia of alluring
Contemporary Art is Paris’s
lovely gardens are beloved by
Located in the historic 3rd
boutiques, bookshops, art
most sought-after spot. For
Parisians longing to bask on a
and 4th arrondissements,
galleries, candy shops, and
a less pricey all-hours spot,
latiers, each with its own style
lawn chair in the sunshine or
the Marais’s ancient Hôtel
much more.
try the Soaring Terrace.
and specialties.
Nothing says Paris like the Lux-
gle square mile can be found at least 15 world-class choco-
The Ultimate Paris Experience Wanderlust Magazine
animals lounging peacefully
cial exhibitions and a cycle of
and imaginatively could add
be it. A central neighborhood
Visiting a Paris Legend: Deyrolle
Rodin, complete with a foun-
The Ultimate Paris Experience Wanderlust Magazine
and the honey is sold in the
one culinary splurge in Paris,
Just behind the Notre-Dame
noon stroll past Espaliered
View Paris by Boat: the Bateaux Mouche
is one of Paris’s most beautiful
stops around Paris.
If you treat yourself to only
The Perfect Walk: The Ile Saint-Louis
are also perfect for an after-
and amblers, the many paths
Once the great sculptor’s studio,
every 20 minutes from eight
Restaurant l’Arpège
ner at l’Arpège.
Explore: Promenade Plantée and Promenades des Berges
A favorite circuit for joggers
Visit the Musée Rodin
ously from 10am until 9:30pm
Splurge on Dinner at
THE CHARM OF MONT ST. MICHEL By Rick Steves Whether scampering across the treacherous mudflats or just approaching across the modern bridge from the mainland, the sight of the distant silhouette of the Gothic island-abbey Mont St-Michel send tired sightseers spirits soaring today just as it did the spirits of weary pilgrims in centuries past. Though a dreamscape from a distance, through the midday Mont St-Michel becomes grotesquely touristic. In the summer, Mont St-Michel’s main street, lined with shops and hotels leading to the abbey, can be a human traffic jam. It’s some consolation to remember that, even in the Middle Ages, this was a commercial gauntlet, with stalls selling souvenir medallions, candles, and fast food. Today, the village’s 30 full-time residents continue to live solely for its visitors. 6 6
While on Mont St-Michel, indulge in some local culinary treats: mussels, seafood platters, lamb (fed on the local saltwater grass), and inexpensive Muscadet wine. Puffy omelets are the island’s specialty. For touristy fun, poke your head into Restaurant Le Mere Poulard on the main drag. In their theater-kitchen, old-time-costumed cooks beat traditional omelets — creating a fun rhythm that can be heard many doors away. The quick omelets were popular for pilgrims, who needed to beat the tide to get
The Charm of Mont St. Michel Wanderlust Magazine
out while they still could, and — even at today’s rip-off prices — they’re still a hit with tourists today.
THE REASON TO VISIT: THE ABBEY The actual abbey of Mont St-Michel is the reason to visit. It’s been an important pilgrimage center since A.D. 708. Today’s abbey is built on the remains of a Romanesque church, which was built on the ruins of a Carolingian church. A walk in the abbey is a one-way route through fine — but barren — Gothic rooms.
Visitors may explore the impressive church, delicate cloisters, and refectory (where the monks ate in austere silence), and then climb down into the dark, damp Romanesque foundations. Romp in the ramparts. Hang out until after dark when the tourists are gone and the island is magically floodlit.