No Budget by Jeffrey Pangputhipong

LONDON NO1

NO BUDGET

NO BUDGET NATALIE CHUI EDITORS

RYAN SKELTON

JACK IP

ILLUSTRATOR

CAROLYN KANG

WRITER & SUB EDITOR

BO HYUN KWON

WEB EDITOR

SANJEEVA SURESH

WRITER

JEFFREY PANGPUTHIPONG

ART DIRECTOR

editors ’ letters Rent is overtaking our lives. That was the somewhat “dramatic” beginning for us as a collective; tried to find the answer as to what is relevant in our time. Walking into newsagents in London is like going to your local supermarket, the shelves are colossal with publications. The only way to go forward for us was to start with an idea from the heart, and not to add to the conveyer belt that fashion feels like it’s becoming to celebrate. We live in a time where we believe that it is more important than ever to have an independent spirit in both work and life. Our manifestation printed before you evaluate those individuals who reside in London and manage to create work independently in the creative industry, without little money or having to dilute their work for a more commercial audience to gain profit to survive. ‘Substance over style’, how many times has this quote been shouted from the rooftops down our throats, but happily ignored? It’s time authentic ideas are championed, and we hope we have endeavoured our purpose in our print. Ryan Skelton CO-EDITOR

As students living in London, we are constantly faced with the financial limitations the city imposes on us. Thus, No Budget unearthed as a magazine built around utilising the limitations and disadvantages presented to us, to create authentic, rewarding work. We, as a collective, aim to disarray the notion and belief that with only high budgets and production, good artistic and fashion focused content can be made. It’s a return to the spirit of Punk and turning the term, “Do It Yourself ” to an attitude about “reviving initiative”. Throughout our first issue, we want to explore and celebrate individuals, who are working within the city of London, and have tapped into an independent spirit in their creative pathways. Ridding the need to generate profit and letting independence dictate. Financial limitations are real and happening, so as a magazine we hope to inspire so that whether there is no education, no hope or simply as the title states, no budget, the most rewarding and truthful work is created. Natalie Chui CO-EDITOR & SUB EDITOR

THE MIDAS TOUCH

WHY GENTRIFIED CITIES ARE NOT APPRECIATED AS IT IS : SOMETIMES IT IS BETTER TO BE UNTOUCHED.

IN COLLABORATION with AIDAN ZAMIRI PHOTOGRAPHY by RYAN SKELTON WORDS by CAROLYN KANG

Elephant and Castle in Southwark, one of

the many boroughs in London, is going through the transformative period of urbanization – caught in the gentrification’s Midas touch. More than 3,000 residents of the nearby Aylesbury and Heygate estates are marginalised and demolished. What remains is revamped into ‘Elephant Park’, with only 79 homes available as social housing. Their latest proposals show plans to construct a four-storey shopping centre and residential towers at the Walworth-Road site. Before turning everything into gold and squeezing the valuable members of the community out, Elephant and Castle has been historically recognised as home for Latin Americans. A place of down to earth charm with neighbourhood nail salons, Columbian pubs and restaurants, and East Street Market has come to an end as its being displaced by other large retail corporations by new, affluent residents who are ready to tame the small town charm. Gentrification in definition describes the process of improving or changing. However, the modern usage of the word ironically emphasises on its effect in sterilising something eccentric and original into a cultural homogenisation. 3

The closure of a local pub in Elephant and Castle that served locals for the past 250 years by Foxton exemplifies this exact irony of gentrification where the new, replaced business will be profiting off the businesses and people they’ve marginalised. The charm in Elephant and Castle is not just about living in an affordable flat down on Walworth Road, but about finding Latin American food at East Street market and people continuing the cultural legacy of the area through it, which can’t be found at Sainsbury’s or Waitrose. La Bodeguita, a local institution for the many South Americans and Heygate residents, who visit after work, enjoy their Sunday afternoons by having a bite at a restaurant around the corner that serves a simple plate of homemade Colombian food. The residents may have gentrification to thank for the “faster” transportation route, a “cleaner” flat and the £3 meal deal to take away from the new local Sainsbury, but they’ll be missing the next door hairdressers they went for monthly hair weaves and second-hand thrift shopping at their local charity shop. Perhaps the new four storey shopping mall across Walworth road would be convenient, to step into a one-stop venue for all our needs. But do we need to turn everything into gold to flourish?

por 7

rtraits

WHAT

ARE T H E Y

W e A I Ng R

What does it mean to be subversive in this day and age? Ask yourself, when you walk around in public, what does it take for you to really question the sense of dress, of another stranger’s outfit passing by you. How could it manage to make you feel both confused, amused, threatened, happy, a whole collision of feelings, rather than just approving the outfit with a positive compliment. To be subversive in dress, is to go outside society’s norms and expectations, and we felt that this manner of dressing is getting lost as the 21st century has progressed, as it feels like our generations taste for dressing up is becoming more and more ridiculed as belonging just to “crazy fashion folk”. To follow the ethos of our magazine, all clothing has been bought from charity shops dotted around London, to challenge ourselves as a group to find items of clothing that are of the best taste, at the best bargain price. Once consumed with clothes we purposefully questioned as a group how to surprise oneself with one’s clothes. So as a result, we decided as a group to challenge as a collective each one of us, with styling each other in an outfit that surpasses what we would normally wear. The Underground was a vital location for us to exhibit our new creations, as you never know who may get on and who may get off, it’s a claustrophobic space where a variety of people of different backgrounds, genders, religious and political beliefs are thrown into a tight space, making it an ideal place to upset the norm. 9

Words

Ryan Skelton

JACK wears a jacket from Match less and skirt from Prideaux House Charity shop and his own shoes & styled by CAROLYN

Photogrpahy RYAN SKELTON & JEFFREY PANGPUTHIPONG

CAROLYN wears a robe from Past Caring and her own trousers and shoes & styled by RYAN

BO HYUN wears a jacket, shirt and scarf from Sense. Skirt from Matchless and his own shoes. Styled by RYAN & NATALIE

NATALIE wears a trouser suit from Sense. Corset from Matchless and her own shoes. Styled by SANJEEVA

JEFFREY wears a coat from Matchless. Corset slip and trouser from Sense and his own shoes. Styled by NATALIE

SANJEEVA wears a coat from Age UK. Shorts from Salvation Army. Shirt, Waistcoat and Choker from Sense. Styled by BO HYUN

RYAN wears a jacket from Trinity Hospice. Sheer top and shorts from Sense. Corset from Matchless. Styled by JEFFREY

SARTORIAL SIGHTS IN

w ORDS BY

SANJEEVA SURESH

ZONE

SIX London is known to be one of the fashion

capitals of the world, but what happens when you leave the hustle of central London? For someone who doesn’t travel farther than Zone 3 on the underground, Uxbridge in zone six feels like a little town far away from the busy “London” we all know. So just what do people in this part of London wear? “We’ve got lots of chavs!” responds Jill, who works at the Uxbridge tube station. “We’ve got lots of young gangs who wear their trousers really low. We’ve got a college just around the corner as well, so a lot of them are wearing the Nike’s. Basically you get people who don’t look in the mirror before they leave the house,” she said smiling. From what I’ve noticed, often times, people are rather shy in this area and aren’t very open to having their picture taken by two fashion students. If “street style” in London is overdone and tired, perhaps all you need to do is venture a little further to uncover sartorial gems and the people who wear them.

MICHAEL,

LIVES IN WEMBLEY. LAW STUDENT, VEGAN BLOGGER

Why do you live away from central London? It’s cheaper but I used to live near Hayes and that was a lot cheaper. Food wise its cheaper as well. JACKET - TOPMAN SHIRT - ZARA MAN PANTS - ASOS BUT FRAYED THEM WITH A KNIFE SHOES - UXBRIDGE

JACK IP

i l lu s t r a t e s

FREDDY,

WORKS AT WAHAKA

HOODIES FROM ARCHIES PANTS FROM TOPMAN JACKET FROM HIS MOM SHIRT FROM BERSHKA

Do you live around here? Yes, I’m from Northbrooke

What’s the difference of living in central London versus living in Zone 6? I was living in central London at one point. I was living in King’s Cross and paying 170 a week, it wasn’t too bad. I think its just a lot more travel to do, more shops, a lot more busses and that. There are a lot more shops other than banks and hairdressers. Where do you shop in Northbrooke? Nowhere, every time I want to shop, its like..I enjoy shopping at charity shops too I mean you get some pretty decent clothes there and stuff but if I were to go to town and go shopping I’d probably go to O xford Street and get some good bargains. What’s your one tip of making the most of limited resources or limited funds? If you have brothers and sisters, take their clothes! Take their clothes, especially your grandparents clothes too, its like, the material back in the day when they were at that age wearing our clothes like... It’s a whole lot better. If you had 50 pounds, how would you creatively utilize that money? I’d go get some weed… (Laughs) I’m just kidding, I wouldn’t do that! If I had 50 quid, I would probably put 30 on my oyster and then probably save it for the weekend and to get some drinks. How would you describe the style of people in Northbrooke? A bunch or wankers! Just kidding!! They are very lovely people, lovely, lovely people. I think that everyone has their own individual style and people in these types of areas more or less tend to be on top, but at the same time you just get people who are doing their own thing, mix and matching and stuff.

FIRZANA, STUDENT AT REGENT’S UNIVERSITY

SHOES FROM NIKE JEANS FROM ZARA JUMPER FROM BRANDY MELVILLE JACKET FROM ALLSAINTS

What’s the main difference from living in central London vs living away? The difference is, in Central London, there is a lot of movements, as I worked there myself, the people are different and more open-minded. What I’ve noticed is that people here are not open minded, with sex and gender, they are very close-minded. It’s also very… I don’t know. different. How would you describe the style of people in Uxbridge? Really basic.

ZAIN, JACKET FROM RIVER ISLAND PANTS FROM ZARA

RAVI, GYMNASTICS COACH, FROM HAYES.

What’s the main difference of living in Zone 6 compared to central London? It’s harder to find shops here unless you go into certain areas, compared to central London. SHOES - VANS JACKET - AMERICAN APPAREL SHIRT - TOPMAN PANTS - RIVER ISLAND

SAM,

ARTIST, ART TEACHER AND A PSYCHIC CLAIRVOYANT who was having a cigarette and carrying a Tesco bag, dressed to toe in black.

Where do you live? “I’m homeless, I was from west London but I walked out of my marriage.” What do you do? “I’m an artist and I teach art” How do you feel about the change between living in west London to living in zone six? “I’ve been spending part of my time in Dorsett and I was supposed to be moving to Glastonbury but I’m not sure at the moment, it depends on work. “ Where are you staying here in Uxbridge? “I’m just staying with various friends, couch surfing and I need a studio because I’m supposed to be producing 45 paintings for a set of oracle cards for New York publishers but I cant do that without somewhere to live so that’s a problem”

CHARLES,

51, FROM COLIN BROOKE.

It’s cheaper to live in the US than the UK, but definitely staying in zone 6 is cheaper than staying in central London.

RICHARD, STUDENT.

‘I live in Norfolk, I’ve just come here to the library to revise and things. It’s definitely easier to move around here than to do so in central London.’

ARIA, WORKS AT WAGAMAMA’S, GOING TO LEEDS UNIVERSITY IN SEPTEMBER. SHOES FROM OLD CONVERSE DUNGAREES FROM ASOS (likes them because they are fitted rather than baggy ones) SHIRT FROM AN EX SHE NEVER GAVE BACK.

How would you describe the street style of people in Uxbridge? You get a big mix; you get quite a lot of Essex-y dressing people, if you know what I mean, quite groomed and match-y match-y. You also get a nice quiet undercurrent of indie things seen from the shirts and T-shirts people wear. One tip of making the most of limited resources Buy dark colours so that you can match it with anything. I think that if you always stick your colours together it’ll look good. If you had 50 pounds, how would you utilize that money in the most creative way? I’d probably buy a good pair of shoes because they’re really important and a few shitty T-shirts for a tenner. I’d maybe get a skirt but I think it’s better if you get one good pair of shoes and a jacket, because they’re important. The rest you can go pretty cheap I think. What’s the main difference of living in Zone 6 vs living in central London? I think in Central, people are a lot more used to seeing people dress differently whereas here it’s just typical suburbia and a lot cheaper. Central is too much for me, I couldn’t handle it all the time, I’d just prefer to dip in and out!

AGGI, JUNIOR COMMISSIONING MANAGER AT GIFFGAFF SHOES FROM VANZ PANTS FROM TOPSHOP TOP FROM H&M

How would you describe the style of people here in Uxbridge? Its pretty rubbish (laughs)! It depends, some people look nice but I prefer how people look in Camden or in Shoreditch or those kind of are “She’s a model, that’s why she looks so good”, her friend tells us before we part ways. 24

Hidden Gem Brooch from Brick Lane 10 pounds

WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON

THE PRICE TAG? PHOTOGRAPHY

JEFFREY PANGPUTHIPONG

P rice tags, rectangular pieces of paper or

more commonly, small orange stickers, hold a dictative force over the decision making process when shopping. Before we can walk out of a store with a new paper bag, the price tag is first on the agenda. If the number is a pleasant sight, we, in turn have something to walk out with. If not, we leave empty handed and full of ‘if only’s’. It’s not only in brickand-mortar stores either; e-commerce has only fully enhanced the existence of the price tag, with big bold fonts glaring back through the screens of laptops, more prominent than it’s accompanying item. It’s what defines worth and value. Thus, luxury, the definition of exclusivity and wealth, becomes, in our minds, automatically classified at the highest end of the price spectrum. When it comes down to breaking luxury into tangible assets, jewelry springs to mind as something very luxurious. Traditionally, it’s a symbol of highlighting beauty, but also directly of status. Higher price yields higher status. Diamonds, rubies, pearls, the list of gems encompassed in jewelry can go on and on, but the price for luxurious jewelry is always high. It’s the epitome of aspiration and only typically, afforded by those who have the wallets, families or both. So the ‘best’ jewelry would be found behind the glassed windows of names like Harry Winston and Chopard on the smooth pavements of Mayfair. However, jewelry is not solely limited to these streets. On Hackney, Turkish jewelry shops stand with strings of gold chains hanging behind their glass windows. Both alike in offering to accentuate necks and ears, yet starkly difference in price tags.

Vajazzle Brooch from Brick Lane 9 pounds

So what is the ‘worth’ and ‘price’ of jewelry? Jewelry, though completely revolving around status, also is for visual appeal. So numbers shouldn’t differentiate the beauty of the item. Price tags and its accompanier aren’t always synonymous. A £20 necklace from Hackney Discount Jewellers can easily look £200. “I rarely go into jewellery shops, maybe just outside to look at the windows”, Helena, a 20 year old university student said. “If I had the money, then sure, I wouldn’t mind buying high end but for now, I’ll just find the next best thing on eBay.” Nowadays, with rent prices rising and fees increasing and limitations high, living, in itself, has become a luxury to many. But perhaps, the biggest luxury of all is having time to step back and realize, that price tags are essentially just pieces of paper and paper can always be burnt. Words by

Natalie Chui 26

NO BUDGET magazine N o 1 London