M A R B L E C I T Y M A N O E U V R E S : R e p o rt f r o m t h e I HF C o n f e r e n c e
Hospitality’s
MARCH 2012
Most Admired & Desired The Industry’s Pick of Ireland’s Most Admirable Operators & Most Desirable Operations
CHAPTER ONE ✛ THE MERRION HOTEL ✛ FRANCIS & JOHN BRENNAN ✛ AVOCA
COVER STORY
COVER STORY
Who is the
Fairest
of Them All?
Here at Hotel & Catering Review we think we have a pretty good idea of who are the greatest purveyors of Irish hospitality. We spend months trawling across the country to honour premises in our annual Gold Medal Awards each year and in the process get a good indication of who is hot and who’s not. But who do you in the trade believe are the nation’s best hotels, restaurants, hoteliers, caterers and chefs, and what businesses do you rate above all others? We surveyed 100 industry readers and asked which hotel and catering operations and operators they admired most, and which businesses they coveted above all others. While there was just praise for numerous businesses across the land, two Dublin powerhouses – The Merrion and Chapter One – swept the board, indicating that in your eyes they are worthy of the many accolades and awards they receive.
I
t seems many of you agreed with us when we crowned The Merrion Hotel in Dublin with a second Hotel & Catering Review Gold Medal Award for Excellence a couple of years ago, making the luxurious five star hotel in Georgian Dublin the only Irish hospitality operation to win the top Gold Medal gong twice. Votes for this landmark hotel opposite the Dáil came in thick and fast in our first ‘Admired & Desired’ survey where we quizzed readers to find out who they rated most in the trade. Not only that, but despite hearing groans in some quarters that ‘Chapter One always wins’ at restaurant awards, it came as no surprise that when asked which restaurant hospitality operators most like to visit, you voted the Michelin-starred restaurant on Dublin’s Parnell Square as your preferred location.
Together The Merrion and Chapter One topped the poll in six of our eight survey questions (The Merrion: Best Hotel, Best General Manager, Most Coveted Hotel; Chapter One: Best Restaurant, Best Restaurateur, Best Chef), while also reaching second place in the remaining two categories. It is proof, once again, of the standing of these two businesses in the trade. While The Merrion and Chapter One swept the boards in the survey, there was also noteworthy praise for the Brennan brothers in the Park Hotel Kenmare who, both together and separately, were voted Ireland’s best hoteliers. Unsurprisingly considering the enviable scrum in Avoca restaurants, and the rip-roaring success of Salt in Monkstown, the Avoca concept was voted the restaurant hospitality operators would most like to own. It was this final survey question ‘which Irish restaurant would you most like to own?’ which threw up the greatest
debate. It is perhaps no surprise, given the climate, that the majority of respondents were reluctant to take over the reins of a restaurant. Asked which restaurant they would most like to own, the bulk of survey respondents (particularly hoteliers) said ‘none’. ‘You can’t make any money on a restaurant’; ‘life’s too short, owning a restaurant would only make it shorter’; ‘it’s too much hard work for not enough payback’, came some of the responses. When it came to selecting a property, the success of Avoca – ‘Have you seen how busy it gets? Recession – what recession?’ – is what made it most desirable to prospective owners. Chapter One’s longevity on Parnell Square also made it attractive, while hoteliers and caterers at the top of the management tree and within the big groups favoured a McDonald’s franchise. Busy branches on Grafton Street in Dublin city and Swords in the north of the county got a particular mention. One
Irish Hospitality’s Most Admired & Desired The hotel Irish hospitality operators most like to visit: The Merrion Hotel, Dublin The restaurant hospitality professionals most enjoy dining in: Chapter One, Dublin The hoteliers most admired in the trade: Francis & John Brennan, Park Hotel Kenmare The industry’s most esteemed restaurateur: Ross Lewis, Chapter One The highest rated chef: Ross Lewis Most respected general manager: Peter MacCann, The Merrion Hotel The hotel most coveted by hoteliers and caterers: The Merrion Most desired restaurant business: Avoca 14 MARCH 2012 HOTEL & CATERING REVIEW
The Merrion Hotel, Dublin was voted the hotel hospitality operators most like to visit and the hotel they would most like to own. Inset: most admired general manager, Peter MacCann, is pictured with the team collecting the hotel’s second Hotel & Catering Review Gold Medal Award for Excellence in 2008.
seasoned five star hotelier made us smile, meanwhile, when he revealed he would most like to own a decent chipper. ‘There’s gold in them chips!’ The same principle applied to owning hotels, though respondents appeared more enthusiastic about hotel ownership versus restaurants. While some managers and staff eschewed ownership in favour of employment – ‘I wouldn’t want to own a hotel as then I would have to pay the bills’ – the majority of hoteliers and restaurateurs opted for the tranquil environs of The Merrion when asked ‘which hotel would you most like to own?’. Again, there was a clear division between those with romantic notions of the hotel sector, and those – the majority of whom were business owners – who put earning a good crust first. ‘I would stay in any Blue Book Hotel in Ireland, but when it comes to ownership I would like to own a Jurys Inn,’ said one hotel group MD (not from Jurys Inns, we hasten to add, we wouldn’t let you vote for yourselves). While it didn’t make the top three, fourth on the table of hotels you would most like to own was the upcoming Grand Canal Square Hotel which was bought by a Swiss family earlier this year. ‘You’d be the only opening this year. It’s brand new and in a smashing location. That would be fun,’ said one respondent. The landmark Ashford Castle in Mayo, which entered receivership last year, also sparked interest, coming joint third with the stunning Cliff House Hotel in Co Waterford on the table of most coveted hotels. ‘It needs serious investment, but Ashford Castle has phenomenal potential to be a world class destination,’ wrote one reader.
T
he chef question also heralded some debate. Asked ‘who do you think is Ireland’s best chef?’ the majority voted for Chapter One’s Ross Lewis, followed closely by Neven Maguire who received the nod for the success of his MacNean House & Restaurant – ‘it’s booked out months in advance, that’s some achievement for
Irish Hospitality’s Most Admired
Q: Which Irish hotel,
guesthouse or B&B do you most like to visit? a restaurant in the middle of nowhere’. Among the cheffing fraternity, votes also came in for Mickael Viljanen, the Finnish chef who recently moved from Gregan’s Castle in Ballyvaughan to Eamonn O’Reilly’s new Greenhouse restaurant in Dublin. ‘Mickael is the best chef in Ireland. No contest,’ said one chef. Other chefs getting the seal of approval from peers in the kitchen included Guillaume Lebrun in Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and Fred Cordonnier in Ballyfin Demesne. And while Ross Lewis topped the restaurateur poll as well as the chef section, he is facing competition from a restaurateur at the completely different end of the spectrum. Joe Macken, the pop-up supremo who has been leading the field in social marketing and has garnered massive attention for his casual dining emporiums (Jo’burger, Crackbirds, Skinflint and, more recently, Bear) was labelled a ‘genius’ by peers. ‘He is a true innovator,’ said one reader, while another revealed ‘my 20-yearold daughter tells me his restaurants are achieving legendary status’. Masterchefs duo Nick Munier and Dylan McGrath also grabbed attention, both for their respective restaurants Pichet and Rustic Stone, and for their own skills. While the ‘old reliables’ still top the poll, a new guard is emerging.
1st place: The Merrion Hotel, Dublin 2
Why ‘The Merrion sets a very high standard of service that is exceptional and is renowned throughout the world. This is quite an achievement for a standalone, independent hotel and it has not deviated from its core values or service ethos during the tough times of recent years.’ 2nd: Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, Connemara, Co Galway
Why ‘Ballynahinch Castle looks great, it’s in an ideal setting, it’s very tranquil, it receives great reviews and it has won many awards over the years.’ Joint 3rd: The Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co Waterford
Why ‘The Cliff House has a lovely atmosphere, great food, fabulous views, lovely walks on the beach and nice touches such as loads of good books in the rooms. It is a real getaway.’ Kelly’s Resort Hotel, Rosslare, Co Wexford
Why ‘Kelly’s has reinvented itself over the decades yet it has never lost its great warmth and the hospitality which it originally became famous for. Its reinvestments were measured and wise, 8 HOTEL & CATERING REVIEW
MARCH 2012 15
COVER STORY
COVER STORY
Left: Chapter One, Dublin was named the restaurant members of the trade most like to visit while chef-patron Ross Lewis (below) was deemed by his peers to be Ireland’s most admired restaurateur and chef. Above, right: Francis and John Brennan of Park Hotel Kenmare were voted Ireland’s most admired hoteliers.
service. It is consistently excellent and always surpasses expectations.’ Joint 2nd: L’Ecrivain, Dublin 2
Why ‘Great food and great service. I have never been disappointed at L’Ecrivain, whether I’ve been there entertaining or dining for pleasure.’ Pichet, Dublin 2
making the hotel ever more appealing to multi-generational guests. It is a true home from home.’
Why ‘Pichet is a great example of what a fun, yet standards-driven restaurant, is all about. It offers great food and exceptional service in a very relaxed and fun environment.’
Doonbeg Lodge, Doonbeg, Co Clare
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin 2
Why ‘Doonbeg has the best standard rooms in the world. It is in an incredible setting by the Atlantic, which is perfect for surfing and has one of the best golf courses in the country. The food is good, but most of all, it has the best, non-fawning, five star staff anywhere.’
Q:Which Irish restaurant do you most like to visit? 1st Place:
Chapter One, Dublin 1
Why ‘Chapter One is the chefs’ restaurant. It’s the one we return to time and again and it always wows in terms of food and 16 MARCH 2012 HOTEL & CATERING REVIEW
Why ‘Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud has always been my ultimate food and drink experience. The service and food are, to this day, the very best I have ever experienced. It is my special occasion restaurant.’ Joint 3rd: Ananda, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 14
Why ‘Ananda is always included in a trip to Dublin. It has great service, a great atmosphere and the menu is always very interesting.’ O’Grady’s on the Pier, Bearna, Co Galway
Why ‘Great views, great food, great service – I have brought many people to O’Grady’s over the years and it never fails to impress.’
The Fern House Café at Avoca in Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow and members of the team at Avoca’s new Salt restaurant in Monkstown, Co Dublin. Avoca was named as the restaurant that hospitality operators would most like to own.
Q: Which hotelier in Ireland do you most admire?
1st Place: Francis & John Brennan, Park Hotel Kenmare*
Praise for Francis – ‘He has been the “best in class” on every rung of the ladder. He sticks to what he does best and has a clear love of hospitality.’ Praise for John – ‘His brother, Francis, gets most of the limelight (deservedly) but John is the worker, the innovator, the guy who delivers the promise every time. And next – glamping. What other hotelier would have the b*lls, sorry, courage?’ Praise for both – ‘They get up and make things happen’; ‘I admire them for their warmth, sincerity, attention to detail and genuine love of what they do’. * Francis and John received equal votes each, and the
brothers also received further votes as a pair so we have decided to collate their votes. Separately they would also occupy first position.
2nd: Peter MacCann, The Merrion Hotel, Dublin 2
Why ‘Peter has positioned The Merrion as Dublin’s best hotel. The service is great and Peter is always gracious, welcoming and generous with his time. He is a great ambassador for the industry.’ 3rd: Bill Kelly, Kelly’s Resort Hotel, Rosslare, Co Wexford
Why ‘Bill Kelly has managed to make Kelly’s a household name and a place on everybody’s “must-visit” list.’
Q: Which restaurateur or
Q: Which Irish hotel or
guesthouse would you most like to own? 2nd: Joe Macken, Jo’Burger, Crackbird, Skinflint & Bear, Dublin
Why ‘Joe Macken’s ideas are years ahead of everyone and he is unique in the industry. He dares to be different and he succeeds.’ Joint 3rd: Derry Clarke, L’Ecrivain, Dublin 2
Why ‘Derry Clarke runs a very good establishment and seems to have weathered the storm. He also does a very good job of promoting his own business.’ Dylan McGrath, Rustic Stone, Dublin 2
Why ‘He achieved a Michelin star with Mint and then he started again with Rustic Stone and made it a success in a hard market during a tough time.’ Neven Maguire, MacNean House & Restaurant, Blacklion, Co Cavan
Why ‘To build a destination restaurant business is extremely difficult. Neven is also innovative and is evolving his menu and food.’
Q: Who do you think is Ireland’s best chef?
1st Place: Ross Lewis, Chapter One, Dublin 1
Why ‘He is practical, has no frills, and he oozes quality.’ 2nd: Neven Maguire, MacNean House & Restaurant, Blacklion, Co Cavan
caterer in Ireland do you most admire?
Why ‘Neven Maguire, obviously because of his skill as a chef, but most importantly his sheer love of what he does, along with such a humble personality.’
1st Place: Ross Lewis, Chapter One, Dublin 1
3rd: Derry Clarke, L’Ecrivain, Dublin 2
Why ‘Ross Lewis – for sticking to his guns in a basement on the Northside and making it a powerhouse of a restaurant. If that business was in France or mainland Europe it would be close to three stars. He is also a “giver” to the industry in general.’
Irish Hospitality’s Most Desired
Why ‘Derry Clarke – the food is always marvellous and has me thinking about it for days afterwards, in a positive way. He is also an inspiration to any chef that is passionate about their food and their craft.’
Q:Who do you think
1st Place: The Merrion Hotel, Dublin 2
Why ‘The Merrion Hotel, because it is a top class hotel that is independently owned and yet it can compete with international branded hotels and win.’ 2nd: The Shelbourne Hotel, Dublin 2
is Ireland’s best general manager?
Why ‘It is part of the fabric of Irish life and it has every natural advantage you need for a thriving hotel.’
1st Place: Peter MacCann, The Merrion Hotel, Dublin 2
Joint 3rd: Ashford Castle, Cong, Co Mayo
Why ‘Peter MacCann, for consistently delivering standards and style.’ 2nd: Adriaan Bartels, The Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co Waterford
Why ‘Adriaan Bartels is absolutely the best man in the hospitality trade. His character and warmth is second to none. It is especially admirable how he took The Cliff House from a fairly normal Celtic Tiger-developed hotel and made it a culinary destination, a great little hideaway. He moves with the time, leading the way in social media use in hospitality.’ 3rd: Mark Nolan, Dromoland Castle Hotel & Country Estate, Newmarket on Fergus, Co Clare
Why ‘Mark is driven, focused and extremely passionate. He is not afraid to articulate his ideas. He represents his hotel very well, and also the region he islocated in. He works hard on sales but never loses sight of the customer and has built a great team around him.’
Why ‘It is the complete package in one location with even more potential.’ The Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co Waterford
Why ‘It is simply unique in both location and food.’
Q:Which Irish restaurant
would you most like to own? 1st Place: Avoca, across Ireland (with preference for Salt in Monkstown)
Why ‘Avoca – it is consistently excellent and thriving in a challenging market’; ‘Salt – the food is solid and it prints money – that’s all that matters in ownership.’ 2nd: Chapter One, Dublin 1
Why ‘It has a wonderful reputation, limited competition in the area, beautiful room, established clientele… and Ross Lewis, one of the best chefs in the country.’ 3rd: A McDonald’s franchise (with preference for Grafton Street)
Why ‘McDonald’s on Grafton Street, because it has been giving people what they want for 30+ years and it makes a fortune.’u
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