Simone Rocha
Brand Report Jennifer Maria Lafer
Brand History Brand Essence Brand Values Brand Onion Brand Proposition Brand Identity Positioning Map Target consumers Market and Competitors Cultural and Communication Strategies SWOT analysis www.simonerocha.com
Reflection
Brand History
- Simone Rocha born in Dublin in 1986 - Graduated with a BA in Fashion from The National College of Art and Design in Dublin - Graduated with Fashion MA at Central Saint Martins in 2010 - Debuted at LFW in September 2010 - Winner of the 2013 British Fashion Award for emerging talent - Collaboration with J Brand Jeans in 2014 ( stocked worldwide) - Collaboration with Tosphop in 2011 - Featured in Colette (Paris) window with AW 11 Collection during Couture Week - Best Future Fashion Wallpaper* Award 2013 - Finalist at LVMH price - Young Designer of the Year at the Harpers Women of the year Awards in 2014 - British Fashion Award for New Establishment Designers in 2014 - Opening of flapgship-store on Mount Street , London
Brand Essence
A very young and feminine aesthetic yet contemporary elements, expressed by volouminous silhouettes and shapes.Romanticism combined with Modernity created in a very personal way.
feminine contemporary rebellious romantic
I would describe the label’s identity as off-femininity. There is a feminine side to everything I create, but it’s all about taking it somewhere modern. -Simone Rocha
Brand Values
Family Art For Rocha art and fashion go hand in hand. She uses art as her inspiration not just for her collections but her brand’s whole identity. The projects she creates like her book and different fashion films mirror her favourite muses and pieces and allow her to combine them with heraesthetic. Her Mount Street store might almost remind one of an art gallery. With a little closer look you can not just find a collection of various treasures but also collaborations by Rocha herself and various artists.
Heritage Her Irish and Hong-Kong-Chinese roots play an important role to the brands ethos. Not just the garments themselves but the whole brand is inspired by her heritage.
The consumer associates the brand with the person Simone Rocha. Through letting people in on her personal life she creates a relation between the customer and the brand. One could even describe the brand as family oriented. Her mother helps her a bit o the side of managment, her father thought her parts of the craftsmenship and her brother choses the music for all of her shows.
“Daddy’s Girl” Being the daughter of the famous designer John Rocha it is hard for Simone Rocha to deny her roots. Eventhough being associated with her fathers work she achieved to create her own style. Rocha herself says that following her fathers footsteps helped her gain experiece in the industry and in her handwork.
Fabrication Rocha makes most of the garments herself. She likes to combine different fabrics in unusual combinations and also create her own unique patterns, embellishment and crochet.
Personal Simone Rocha is a very personal label. Her collections are inspired by her own life experiences like for example giving birth to her first child. With an eye to detail Rocha gives everything she creates her own little touch.
Brand Onion
Brand Proposition
involvement in personal life
rebellious heritage art
feminine
family
feminine contemporary detail curious romantic personal
shows
A feminine and romantic label with a contemporary and modern touch. Inspired by her Irish heritage and influenced by art , Simone Rocha has managed to create a very personal and initimate brand.
fabrication individuality independent
self-aware
print-publication
i-D
Brand Identity
simone rochas instagram
Signature Design Elements
Tulle and Mesh Perspex Fabrication
When I spoke to a salesperson at Rochas Mount Street store she told me that Rocha loved all things perspex because they make objects appear floating.
Rocha makes most of the textiles, prints and patterns herself.
Her Perspex heels definietely belong to her signature pieces.
She likes to merge different fabrics in unusual combinations and create her own unique patterns, embellishment and crochet.
The use of perspex also adds one of the contemporary compoments to her designs.
The use of sheer materials do not just create an element of rawness and purity, they also make the garment more delicate. The textiles used add to the element of romanticism.
She achieves to create something “ new but relatable� The consumer is able to find her voice in every detail . -Making her own textiles sets her apart from other designers and gives the customer a feeling of
individuality.
simonerocha.com
Embellishment The embellishment adds a feminine and romantic component
Silhouettes Voluminous silhouettes and contemporary shapes
both images simonerocha.com
Packaging The packaging that Simone Rocha uses is consistent with the othe design elements very minimal. The packaging is kept in white and the logo kept in a fairly small size. The packaging was designed by irish art director and designer Conor Cronin.
Invitations The fashion show invitations are again kept very simple and minimalistic.
Colours
A detail-shot of the clothes on the front sets the mood for the show.
The brand mainly uses the colours Red, black and a “rosy” tone. The colours go hand in hand with the two elements of contemporary and romantic/feminine .
Font
The use of simple plain paper really sets the Invitations apart from regular card - embossed invites.
Fitting with the personal ethos of the brandthe customer gets a letter with letters S R embossed in a seal. This again plays with the aspect of romanticism and another era. Another interesting fact about the letter is that the address written on it is an Irish address. Since Rochas studio is located in London that might another hint at her irish heritage.
It seems effortless and personal. (feeling of old letter) On the back of the page you will find a few written words, which describe the tone of the show.
The font Simone Rocha consistantly uses is called “ Typewriter Elite” The serif font adds an romantic and playful design element. It is mostly used in a consistent way on a plain minimal background .
www.conorconrin.com
The Shows As a NEWGEN designer Rocha first started showing her collections at the BFC showspace at Somerset House until she then moved her shows to locations that seemed the perfect place to create an atmosphere that is romantic, gloomy and has so much history. An invitation to a phantasy that can be a bad or a good dream.
Music Eventhough the theme behind each show may vary Rocha achieves to run a certain consistency in the style of music for the shows.
Lighting Dimmed and fairly dark lighting achieves a mystique and romantic ambiance.
I would describe the consistent undertone she has as psychedlic, dreamy folk mixed with electronic contemporary music. Rocha creates a dark, dreamy but at the same time romantic ambiance, which captures the brands essence.
S/S 16 - Lancaster House London
Tom Jamiesen (NYtimes)
The Dots
A/W 17- Southwark Cathedral
https://changehere.wordpress.com
http://www.buro247.sg
A/W 15- Guildhall London
S/S 15 - St. Andrew Church
http://www.guildhall.cityoflondon.gov.uk
Flickr
The Upcoming
Purple mag
The Store “I wanted it to be an interesting space for people to walk into,” , “so that they can really see the clothes and feel like, ‘wow that’s beautiful. Just to feel and see my inspirations; not only in the materials of the clothes but all of the textures. I want people to be interested and excited, and for it to be a playful and interactive experience.”-Simone Rocha
Ambiance : Aesthetics and Artworks : - perspex furniture displaying pearl brooches - Rocha responsible for the design of the entire interior. - glazed ceramic chandelier by Los Angeles artist Pae White, - 3 original lithographs by Francis Bacon from 1984 (family treasure ) - 4 Easy chairs (Model 4801) designed by Joe Colombo for Kartell in the 1960s ) - decorative floral plaster cornice and a pink onyx desk ( created by herself) - Curved marble seats created by her father - Perspex/Floating objects - Janina Pedan ( Set Designer ) white cage + front window abstract sculpture - Ren Ri ( Artist) X Rocha) honeycomb sculptures - classicism in a contemporary framework, warm modern romanticism - brilliant mix of the hyper-modern with the traditional. - simultaneously inviting and ope - flexibility for future projects and collaborations with other artists.
- sentiment of the store: a humanity that is rarely achieved in retail environments. - space is distinctly personable - the open-plan layout has the feel of an art gallery. -music : is a playlist she and her boyfriend compiled for a birthday party - mother working on distribution, brother curating her show music, father advising - church-like fragrance that scents the store
Stockists Simone Rocha is being stocked at the most prestigious adresses in the world.
Browns, London Dover Street Market, London/ Ginza Net-a-Porter Selfridges, London It Market, Beijing Ikram , Chicago Colette, Paris window at colette Paris www.simonerocha.com
IT Market Beijing - simonerocha.com
Dover Street Market London
Collaborations
Simone Rocha X Topshop (2011) - consists of : two shirts, two coats, a blazer and a pair of smart trousers - all in a monochrome palette. - combination of sharp, masculine tailoring with unexpected fabrics and feminine details.
Simone Rocha X J Brand (2014)
- Stockists : in Oxford Circus, Brompton Road, Selfridges, New York, Chicago and topshop. com and will be available from September 15.
- denim - new territory - excited to combine aesthetics - 14 piece range - stocked at : DSM, Selfridges, Online ( N-a-P, JBJ‌) - what frill can do for a non frilly girl - wear jeans in a different way - RED/PINK/BLACK - minimalist/androgynous - J Brands other collabs : Proenza Schouler, CK, 5x5
Rocha X J Brand, www.kokolife.tv
Print Simone Rocha utilises quite a lot of print media. Each season a thin A2 sized lookbook becomes available at the store, for customers to take home. The lookbook does not just contain the typical shots of the outfits but is full of collaborations with artists, photographers and her inspirations. Another book Rocha released was her limited edition book “ A snapshot of everything”. The book also contains collaboration her inspirations and hints at her irish and chinese roots. It reminds one more of a collection of artworks than a promotional tool of a brand. Rocha thus creates a personal feeling and combines fashion and art. A book that describes her world.
“A snapshot of everything”
Lookbooks
A2 thin book different themes explored contains artworks, photography
all images www.simonerocha.com
work by Louise Bourgeoise
The lookbooks show the mood of each collection .
-Featuring photography by collaborators including Eoin McLoughlin, Colin Dodgson, Jacob Lillis, Perry Ogden, Colin Dodgson, Ross McDonnell . works of longtime -muse Louise Bourgeois only 1000 copies, available at the London store. images in unusual sequences – not normal composition exploration of her past, present and future.
Fashion Film
Short Collection Films
NOWNESS x Simone Rocha presents “ The Way We Dress“
On Rochas website archive one can also find short fashion films that capture the essence of some of her collections.
In this NOWNESS series Rocha is invited give her interpretation of Hong Kong Dress and how it reflects in the older generations.
The films are another consistent approach to her aesthetic. They seem very artistic and conceptual. I would say that the films were not made to really follow a story or a plot they are purely aesthetic. They seem to be there to set the tone and mood for the different collections.
With showing us her roots and inviting us to her experience of Hong Kong she gives us an insight into her roots and shares her memories and experiences.
I think that using the medium of fashion film is a very fitting one for the brand. The brand speaks in its own tone and a film helps to support the brands essence and makes it easier for the customer to relate.
https://www.nowness.com/series/the-way-we-dress/simone-rocha-hong-kong-dress
Website
The website seems consistent with how the brand communicates. Once you enter the page there is a video of her latest catwalk show, which sets the tone especially through the music. Entering the main page the design and content is designed rather minimal, simple and clear. The design makes it appear as though the webiste does not have a lot of content. Through clicking on images the viewer can explore quite a lot. Projects, an archive are almost like a collection of hat the brand has done, including collaborations with artists and photographers. The design and the layout itself is very clear where the logo and the content itself adds to the more artistic and feminine look. Since the website does not have an online shop itself it doesnt seem to obvious that the website is the brands main promotive tool. It does not just seem like its there to make the customer “buy” “buy” “buy”.
all images : www.simonerocha.com
Social Media
Twitter Rochas Twitter account consists mostly as I would describe it a place to share (retweet) things the brand is feature or mentioned in. Latest news about the brand are being retweeted, like editorial coverage, interviews or just anything that happens around the brand.
@simonerochashop This instagram account is more about the brand it focusses mainly on the mount street store with a sturctured layout in 3`s and consistent style and colour scheme it is a more designed promotional tool.
Facebook @simonerocha_ The more personal instagram account covers snapshots of things happening around the brand in everyday life but also the person Simone Rocha herself. She shares photos of her child or her inspiration. It makes it seem as if you are following the person not the brand even if it is still to promote the brand in a way.
She also share news that evolve around her collaborators and friends.
you will find less personal content but more so news around the brand.
You can see her name being “mentioned� by a few celebrities like for example Chloe Sevigny. celebs mentioning her name
Editorial content is only featured if it fits the layout and the theme of the account.
It helps the consumer to relate to the brands essence in a very natural way.
On her twitter there is no new content created or shared it i mostly about promoting the already exsiting stories aroun the brand.
You will also find catwalk shots , some bits of inspiration and quotes that sum up the brands essence.
It seems unforced and informal at the same time because the design is not layed out in a structured and particularly designed way it just seems natural.
Rochas Facebook account is not as frequently updated as her other social media accounts. It is used similar to her twitter account, more as tool to share already exsisting content about the brand. The shared content consists of catwalk photos, editoria features The account is purely promotional It seems on some bots that it is not being updated frequently enough.
Another interesting fact is that the number of comments and likes on the page are fairly small compared to the amount of followers the page has got.
simone rocha on facebook
@simonerocha_
Simone Rocha uses 4 different social media accounts. The only platform where she produces its own content for seems to be Instagram, where I see the use of 2 different accounts quite appropriate. To have both a personal side the customer relates to and a more promotional site. Her Facebook and twitter account is only being used to share already created content which can sometimes be a disadvantage because there is no specified content created for the different types of consumer each platforms has. In Simone Rochas case it could also be that she only wants to reach out to a certain type of consumer on the social media platforms to hold on to her more personal and less promotional brand ethos.
@simonerochashop
simone rocha on twitter
Media Coverage
Editorials
Celebrities Simone Rocha gets a ot of media coverage through celebrities wearing her clothes.
Since Rocha does not have advertising campaigns , her getting a lot of editorial coverage is very important.
Rihanna for example has been seen in her clothes mutiple times.
Her clothes have been featured in the biggest names on the news stand.
She dressed Chloe Sevigny for the MET gala.
Given the authority the big magazines , like Vogue for example, being featured in one of them gains the brand a lot of following.
This helps the brand in many ways. It gains a lot of attention and at the same time makes the garments very desirable.
Also showing the clothes on different types of women and different contexts makes a wider range of consumers relate to it.
It gives the consumer an access to the “clothes that celebrities wear “ It also shows how the clothes can be worn on different types of girls Rihanna wearing Simone Rocha pinterest
Simone Rocha: 'I get such a buzz when A-list celebrities wear my outfits’
Editorial in WMagazine Porter Spring 2016
Positioning Map
FEMININE
MINIMAL
DECORATIVE
ANDROGYNOUS
Market Analysis
Rocha operates in an international high-end market. Her competitors are designers like J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou and Christopher Kane. They all operate in a similar price range. Where the competitors designs are more androgynous and edgy Rochas aesthetic has little touches of the romantic era, which gives it a bit more feminine touch. Some of the designs remind of a Victorian or Elizabethan style dress, which gives them that romantic sense of the past combined with the contemporary. Another designer that comes close to her field would be Valentino Red. The aesthetic have some similarities. However what sets Rocha apart is that other than Valentino Red she is a very personal label. The designs are developed for woman who want to dress unique but still hold on to their personal taste. They seek for a very intimate label like Rochas, where it seems like each item is different and matches different personalities. Another fact that sets Rocha apart is that she produces her own garments. The fabrication adds to the unique character of her pieces. Dazed and Confused
i-D
With rebellious side lookbook.nu
The Brands response to cultural and communication trends
Living an an age where things get more and more mainstream and commercial many people seek for individuality and something more personal. It is a known fact that fashion does not come without the commercial side, however I feel like the customer wants to buy into an something they can relate to. Something that has a story, something that creates an experience, something that doesnt make a brand feel like every other, where the “fashion authorities� predict what to wear and what to follow. I think Simone Rocha tries to approach to give exactly that personal experience to the customer. We want to feel special and we want to relate to where our clothes come from. Through personal touches like limited edition books and sharing details out of her personal live Rocha creates a relationship between her ans the customer.
Maddie Ziegler, wearing Simone Rocha in i-D Magazine
SWOT Analysis
Weaknesses
Strenghts
- huge celebrity media coverage
- lacks consitancy on social media - no fitted content for different platforms - brand values might not be obvious enough for consumer - narrow target market - controversy : celebrity style vs. individuality / unique style - too much association with her father -parts of the websites contents are very hidden/hard to find
- famous father John Rocha - consistent aesthetique - prestigious stockists - great coverage - good relations to most well-known names ( Vogue, i-D)
Threaths
Opportunities
- brand image could not be fully understood misinterpreted - more and more competitors could be moving towards her aesthetic
- launch own E-commerce platform - clear and obvious promotion of the brand - maybe advertising that fits the brands values - make assets of the brand more relatable and obvious ( her personality as the face of the brand ) - artists collaborations should be promoted more - make it seem less enclined - make content on website more structured and narrow down to core essence.(less searching for content)
Dazed
Reflection
In reflection I would sum up that the Simone Rocha brand has a consistent aesthetique that is developed from unique brand values that were influenced by the designers strong personality. However I feel that these brand values could in some bits be commuicated to a higher extent. The messages or even the experiences that are behind the brands essence do not seem as obvious to me as they could do. The key distinctives of the brand could be used as great assets that set Simone Rocha apart on the market. In my personal experience, it was only through quite bit of research that I got more of an idea of what Simone Rocha was about. I feel like some very interesting features of the person Simone Rocha as well as the brand get a bit lost. The aesthetic seemed quite clear to me. Feminine meets contemporary, young romantic women with a dark/rebellious twist. However it did not seem quite as clear to me that there are so much more influences forming this brands essence. All the artists Rocha works with the detail she puts into everything , even when it comes to the wall in her store. Everything has her own little touch. The combination of fashion and art as she sees it is a very interesting one and should be taken much more as an asset of the brand. The personality and the experiences that all go into this brand should be promoted in a broader sense. An example herefor is the website. All in all the website seems structured and runs with a consistent aesthetic. It seems so minimal that it doesnt become clear how much valueable content it actually inhabits. It reminds of an artists archive. Through clicking different categories you stumble upon fashion films, photography of the collections, or even the content of her limited edition books. Maybe narrowing the content down and placing it in a bit less hidden and obvious way does not seem like the website is a collection of withheld treasures that are quite hard to find. Another point is the brands lack of consistency on social media platforms. She uses instagram as her main tools of communcation. With 2 different accounts, one personal, one for the store, she promotes herself as a designer and her brand in a good way. However when it comes to other platforms like facebook and twitter I feel like the pages are not being frequently updated. To reach the different types of customers for each individual platforms I think it could be useful to update the content, fit the content to each platforms format or even created special fitted content for it. All in all I would say that Simone Rocha is a very unique and personal brand with a very unique message that could promote its essence and reach even further than the current target market. Simone Rocha is a brand that provides the consumer with a consitency and a personal and unique experience.
Editorial in 1 Granary
Sources http://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/rising-star-simone-rochashows-artworks-alongside-fashion-at-first-london-store http://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/7704/inside-simonerochas-new-mount-street-store http://www.vogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/24/simone-rocha-store-holding.jpg http://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/7704/inside-simonerochas-new-mount-street-store http://www.vogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2015 http://nyti.ms/1QoBT6X http://simonerocha.com http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=1605 http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/simone-rocha https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/simone-rocha http://www.numero.com/en/fashion/interview-simone-rocha-london-fashion-week-fall-winter-2016-2017 https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/topic/simone-rocha http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9943293/Simone-Rocha-interview-chic-off-the-old-block.html http://www.vogue.com/13261932/simone-rocha-style-print-magazine/ http://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/14/fashion/london-fashionweek-simone-rocha-born-to-fashion-makes-her-own-mark.html?_ r=0 i-D
T Magazine