Rock Monasteries of Provadia by Jerbils

ROCK MONASTERIES OF PROVADIA

Valentina Kirova Plamen Mihaylov

ROCK MONASTERIES OF PROVADIA

Provadia 2008 Paraphrased Google translation by Jeremy Dyde, Zlatina, 2012

This project was made possible by the help of ÅÂÐÎÔÓÒÂÎË ÎÎÄ and the “Workshop for Civic

Initiatives". The information expressed herein is the view of the authors and does not necessarily reflect the views of ÅÂÐÎÔÓÒÂÎË ÎÎÄ or WCIF.

ROCK MONASTERIES OF PROVADIA THE EYES OF TIME Rock monasteries of Provadia! Preserved in a breath of time, merged into moments of infinity! The inaccessible cliffs, their exposed chambers forever eyes of the past, the present and the future. Watching us, waiting. Until, noticed, we stand before them and begin our conversation with the silence of time. Rock monasteries! They are everywhere in the Provadia valley and amid the landscape of many of the villages in the region. Are they not the union between man and nature, remaining invulnerable and immortal? Can we not touch them and feel their universal majesty? Raise your eyes and see them! Open your heart and soul, touch them with your hands and feel the magic of time contained within the stone. In your silence, feel at one with the voids. And, maybe, you will be ready to start this long overdue and silent conversation with time and ... me! Do it.. â&#x20AC;Ślet us together feel ourselves to be part of the power of eternity! Valentina Kirova

SHASHKANITE An hour's walk north of the Ovech fortress is an area known as Shashkanite. "Shashkan" means wild, crazy, but in the sense of splendid, wonderful. We do not know what meaning they had in mind in the past - whether that there lived there wild and crazy people, for example hermits and monks or whether it referred to the beautiful and wonderful place. Right here on the vertical cliff face is situated a rock monastery with five interconnected chambers all with separate entrances. Today you can easily reach the top five as a steel suspension bridge has been built to enable access. The rooms are an average size, their height is about 1.50 m and the transition between each interesting place is via small passages. The fourth and fifth chambers are at a higher level. The fifth is actually the highest and it has a tombstone grave with an indented lid. In the room, there are two openings above, in which are inscribed crosses. The remaining chambers are difficult to reach. Two of them are interconnected and their spaces are well formed and wide. The exterior of the entrance ways have markings of structures used for entry and closure. It is pleasant and slightly mystical to rest in these spaces and observe nature and the vista of the city, always on show, in their windows.

GRADISHTE On the rocky spur in the "Gradishte", about 1.7 km south of the village of Petrov Dol, or about 1.5 km northeast from Provadia, is a rock monastery with six chambers. It can be easily reached via the socalled Ali Bey gully, and the "Saint George" caves. At the western end of the rocks are two rooms, which are accessible from each other, and at different levels. The rest are on one level. They are oriented to the southwest. The rocks here have been heavily eroded and, in the stone chambers, are visible only the large grooves that demonstrate that they were closed rooms. Entrances and openings, windows are broken, but their original forms are clearly distinguished. The cells are of medium size compared to

those in the rest of the region - their size does not exceed 2.00 to 2.50 m and the largest, most interesting, is the cell located at the highest level which is three times greater than that below it, which is actually the entrance. There are several openings, clearly visible locations and screening, niches in the walls. Residents of the monastery had a very good view of four other monasteries of the valley, Sara Kaya in Provadia, Tupanite and Chukara in Krivnya and "St. George" in Petrov Dol and, also, the other individual chambers around Provadia.

SARA KAYA When the morning sun rises above Provadia, first to shine is the Sara Kaya rock - the yellow rock. There, quite inaccessible, is located the rock monastery. It consists of three enclosures at the northern end of the cliffs and two, fully open, in the south portion. Also, a smaller opening at a higher level. Of the three northern cells, of particular interest is the most northern where, near the entrance, are two niches forming a kind of altar. Over and around them there are three inscriptions of Georgian language. They are written in old Georgian capital letters and Nushuri. The inscription reads: "Lord Jesus Christ, our God, have mercy on us, Amen”, “This is the Holy Apostles" and "Mention me in your prayers, sinful Michael Georgian”. Between both niches is a cross and to the right you can make out the number 731. Earlier research of the monastery did not mention anything. To the left is a small altar with a mixture of ornamentation, and, to the right, rock paintings of figures of horses in different poses. At the foot of the cliffs lies a huge stone with a cave underneath.

Above the hole is a sign that is damaged. Locals say that years ago there was an obvious image of a fish. Near the monastery, on the road to the village of Krivnya, a coin treasure was found from the Roman era. Travellers from different ages, but locals say they've seen around the monastery large metal rings stuck in the rocks. There are different explanations as to what they were for.

SKITOVE Several individual chambers are located on the western wreath of rock at the north of Provadia, the gorge of the Provadiski river. The first of these is in the "Gargalaka" area. Here in the arc of the chain is a rock cliff chamber. It is entirely open to the southeast and in it can be seen niches on the wall and fireside seats on the floor. Nearby, on a straight section of the rocks, is another small chamber. There is a clear entrance and doorstep. Lower bottom left is a circular hole-vent. Continuing north on the rocks above the textile factory are three individual chambers. The most northern is almost oblong. It is entered through an elliptical hole. This is actually the only hole in the chamber. The second room is also oblong.

The entrance has a rectangular shape where, on the inside, are clearly visible grooves of wooden frames for closing. To the right, looking at the exit, in the base there was a vent, which over time has been broken off and has opened up a large hole in the threshold of the entrance. The height of both cells is less than 1.5 m. At one end of the second cell is an eagle's nest. The weather was bad, thunderstorms and rain, but the unconcerned eagles allowed us to stay for a long time. A third chamber has a large niche in the rock or perhaps an unfinished cloister. In these sanctuaries there are many fossils of sea snails, worms, corals and a multitude of evidence that this once was the bottom of the sea.

CHUKARA "Chukara" is the place that terminates in a strange and beautiful promontory. It is 2.5 km. north of the village of Krivnya. The monastery is easily visible from the valley of the Provadiski river. On the sheer cliffs of 10-12 m height there are nine chambers. Below them is a well-formed rock arch where there are visible signs of barred mortar drawings and inscriptions, which time and people have slowly erased. Among the impressive paintings are figures of monks, male and female couples and something resembling a turtle, seen from above. A wellpreserved inscription - "Kvosis ego" sounds like a translation threat â&#x20AC;&#x153;I will teach youâ&#x20AC;?.

You can enter the chambers, which are all connected, relatively easily, with climbing equipment. There are impressive passages between the chambers with rock benches and hearths and the remnants of facilities for closing windows and doors. A long tunnel-like passage, built on a hill with water at the foot of the cliff. The premises have a height of about 2m. Being in these rooms will spur the imagination and you will gain a sense of what life was like for those ancient residents. This large promontory has the appearance of a huge sharkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head. In the end chamber, open to the south, a pair of eagles hope to keep and raise their offspring.

TUPANITE The area "Tupanite" is located about 2.3 km. northeast of the village of Krivnya. The high plateau's arm is almost parallel to that like it in the north â&#x20AC;&#x153;Chukaraâ&#x20AC;?. On the relatively low rock crown, reaching up to 10-12 m, are located four chambers. One is distinct from the others by being much larger, the others being about 5.7, 4.3 and 1.8 m in height. In the northernmost room are carved stone benches and in the floor can clearly be seen many small round indentations. Within some of the open doorways and windows you can detect many indistinct features along with clear dimples in the rock in circles.

Along with them are seen many pictures of animals, horses, cows and goats. Also an interesting "mask", which occurs in other monasteries in the area. The rock has been eroded and has probably been wiped of much of these valuable signs of antiquity. After the abandonment of the monastery by its inhabitants, probably much later, the site was used for a quarry. Still on the plateau, unfinished or unused, are large stone troughs.

CHUKARA

TUPANITE

SKITOVE

VENCHAN

NENOVO RAVNA

NEVSHA CHERKOVNA

OVCHAGA

SNEZHINA

CHERNOOK

GRADINA ROVO

BOAZA - NENOVO

BLASKOVO

SLAVEYKOVO

KOMARE

KITEN

SODOLA - NENOVO

HISARLUKA - SLAVEYKOVO

KITEN

SARA KAYA

GOLYAMATA KANARA

SHASHKANITE

ZLATINA

STAROSELETS

PETROV DOL GRADISHTE

KRIVNYA

MANASTIR

PROVADIA DOBRINA

HRABROVO ST. GEORGE TUTRAKANSI ZHITNITSA

EVO BOSVELIISKO

CHAIIKA

BARZITSA

KARA PESHTERA

ROYAK

CHAIKA - KANARATA

HRABROVO

ST. GEORGE Near the village of Petrov dol, about 1.8 km to the southeast, is "St. George". It is a rock chamber with a trapezoidal shape, oriented to the west. The dimensions are 2.65/2.25/1.3 m At a higher level in the chamber itself is located the tomb. On the walls are two niches and there are indentations on the floor. Prior to the chamber is a small area to the left of the entrance where there is an inscription in Greek, "St. George". The inscription is dated around the 18th/19th century and is probably from a later occupation of the chamber. It was reached by steep stone stairs, which are well preserved but now access is by a handy wooden staircase. At the bottom of the tomb are the remains of a small church or chapel. In front of the rock monastery stretches vast meadows with good visibility to "Gradishte". On other rocks are visibly obvious places where there have been buildings with preserved traces of clusters of beams, niches and bases. Perhaps these were outbuildings. Since nearby, to the west, is the rock monastery "Gradishte" where there was a settlement, it

is possible that "St. Georgeâ&#x20AC;?served that area with this church and the tomb and was a sacred place of worship. The general area around the rock sanctuary may have been a kind of economic center. "St. George" is a monument to culture.

KARA PESHTERA 3.5 km. northeast of the village of Manastir, far along the little river, is a rocky cave, Kara Peshtera -the black cave. Locals call it that, probably because some of the chambers are below the main cave - in the dark and damp basement. Others call it "The monastery of 40 praises" because there were originally 40 chambers. The largest chamber of the monastery is oblong shaped and has a vaulted ceiling, laid out north-south. Its length is about 40m with a depth of about 10m. Clearly visible are markings of fences and the walls have many niches. In the southern part of the cave there is a staircase from the plateau level from which is a small passage leading to the entrances of the underground cells - a total of three different levels. The cells are dark and connect with each other by small passages. In the northern part of the cave there is a large room with two holes. To the north, along the rock face, are arranged numerous niches of different sizes.

Under one of them is an almost completely obliterated inscription. Following them, at right angles, are a series of four large rooms. They have rock benches, niches, altars and small indentations. Each is accessed in a different manner depending upon the surrounding terrain. Opposite Kara Peshtera is Uzun rock, a long cliff face. It also has stone benches and altars and niches can be seen with indented crosses. All this is evidence that Kara Peshtera is a large rock monastery complex. Its history and existence are related in many tales and legends. The monastery gave the name of the village - Manastir.

KANARATA At about 2 km northeast of the village of Chaika, in the area known as "Kanarata", are the ruins of an ancient fortress. Treasure hunters have uncovered large pitosi (clay pots) and broken them. Uprooted trees are sticking out. On the vertical side of the cliff is a rock temple, consisting of four chambers. As with other rock monasteries, one is located at a higher level. The entrances of the chambers have been severely damaged. They can only be reached by climbing. The base of the monastery is a large natural cave, which was the common room of the monastery. Off to the side is a hole which has a natural rock formation resembling stalactites but they have broken by the treasure hunters. Among the items removed by treasure hunters have been big metal nails, handmade iron brackets, etc. some fine off-white ceramics and some embalming jars. The fortress and the rock temple are similar in construction to buildings in the village of Kiten. The site has not been studied by archaeologists, only looted by treasure hunters, so interest is high. From the top of the cliff can be seen Bozveliysko village and a prehistoric mound in the area for the mining of salt.

KITEN Close to one of the smallest villages in Provadia municipality, Kiten, on the sheer cliffs, looking towards the village of Blaskovo, is a rock monastery. On the plateau, all overgrown with vegetation, where there are many different species of protected plants, spread the remains of an old settlement. It is connected with the castle in the northwest corner. The rock monastery chambers are accessible from a chimneylike passageway, directly from the surface of the plateau, individually into the separate rooms and also through a separate entrance, on the south side, which has a stone staircase. The chambers are located on three levels. Moving from one to another is through tall, narrow openings. On the upper level is located a large separate room. Around the entrance are decorations. Inside the altar is facing east. Perhaps this is the room of the highest-ranking monk in the monastery. Today from the weathered rocks have spallated large stone pieces. At the foot of the cliffs at the entrance of the fortress, as at the start of the plateau on the south, there are rock paintings, some of which are already half deleted.

ROYAK 2 km. northwest of the village of Royak, in the area of Dzheneviz rock, is a large rock monastery complex. In fact, it is placed horizontally on the same rocky hill as the monastery at the village of Kiten. The chambers are built on several levels on D-shaped rocks. The northeast arm is longer and has about 20 cells. Unfortunately, most of them were destroyed during the time that the quarrying company "Ticha Stupka" worked here in the 50-60s. There is a church where now are only visible inscriptions that mention the names of the Bulgarian kings - Michael Asen - 1252-1253 and Ivan Alexander - 1331-1371. At the foot of the chambers are later drawings and inscriptions, from the twentieth century, where is mentioned the last Bulgarian king. Above the church are two well maintained rooms.

In the middle of the Dshaped wreath, large stone steps lead to the water reservoir area. On the walls there are many niches that were originally closed with lids. There are various suggestions as to their use but one is that this is an old temple or tomb, where burial urns were placed in them. The shorter arm of the cliffs has about a dozen well preserved chambers. They are almost on the same level. At the foot of the rock monastery is still found ancient and medieval pottery. Also found here is a bronze ring and a coin from the time of Justin I.

NEVSHA Between the village of Madara and Provadia, near Nevsha station, are a group of rock monasteries. They are located on the steep cliffs of the Big and Little Shrouds there are more than 50-60 chambers. This series of rock monasteries is very impressive whichever way you turn you can see chambers. In the largest rock monastery, which 5,7,9 the researcher Ara Margos called "The Monastery", are remains of a rock church, and a "school". The rooms are located on several levels and are open to the northwest. Here on the rocks, now eroded and barely evident, is an inscription of 1666.

In the relatively remote two chambers of the "Little Shroud" are a shaped tomb and a small pit on the floor. The chambers of the Little Shroud are about a dozen and are situated on one level. At their foot are found rock paintings left by the resident monks. In most areas of the rocky cliffs can be seen eagles' nests of different kinds. Beautiful scenery, rock monasteries and the soaring eagles on high, add an extra charm to the Nevsha channel and the gorge of the Provadiski river.

IZMATETS On the way to Krivnya village there is a deviation to the left of "Izmatets." Before the gate of the privately owned complex "Izmatets", bear to the right. Pass around the seismic station and a rocky site opens up. Below it, between two arches, an underground river surfaces. Various legends tell that the river comes from Madara, goes underground and then, at this location, reaches the surface. Some even believe that this water is healing, just as the water percolating in the Great Cave of Madara, and that it primarily heals diseases of the eye. The whole area is overgrown with vegetation. Next to the arched opening of the river is a rocky outcrop, about 3-4 m high. There, barely visible, are two chambers of a rock monastery. Local residents and former researchers of the area suggest the monastery is situated near the village of Hrabrovo, because it is on that villageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s land - Schorpil1. The rock monastery is underground. Both entrances led down to other chambers and galleries. The monastery is now filled with earth. In one hole a tree has grown. Penetration to the depths of the monastery is impossible without it being cleaned.

NENOVO - BOAZA 2.5 km. area northeast of the area known as The Dolapi (the cupboards), at the start of the Nenovo Boaza, from the gorge of the Provadiski river are located about 15 chambers of different sizes. Not far from them, closer to the village, is a so-called â&#x20AC;&#x153;sanctuaryâ&#x20AC;? and a beautiful waterfall. The rooms of the rock monastery are on one level - three of them are quite large but others are relatively small, some even can accommodate only one person. The walls are heavily eroded. In some places beautiful limestone formations have been created. There is a splendid view of the gorge, and on the other side of Boaza the first village of Nenovo was situated. It is likely that the monastery was abandoned early by its inhabitants. The "sanctuary" is a vaulted stone room with a height of more than 2m. It is open to the south. On the rocks around it there are multiple grooves but it is not obvious what they were used for.

GOLYAMATA KANARA At the bottom of a karst canyon where once flowed the Petrov River, 3.5 km. north of the village of Petrov Dol, is a high rock. It has been called Aladzhik Borun. The cliffs are named for the protected area, which is - "Golyamata Kanara". Locals even call it "Kirechlika" because of the nearby limeworks of Kirech. On this beautiful rock face are six chambers and a niche. Due to that, it is also known as the “Seven Chambers” (Ñåäåìòå îäàè). In the middle, higher than the other, there is one chamber, while the remaining five are lower and in an arc. The central and highest chamber is associated with a sloping tunnel through to the western half. The rooms are relatively large their size ranged from 2.60m x 2.00m to 3.60m x 2.30m and in the walls are small altars and niches. There are stone benches and some visible signs of opening windows and entrances and, also, drawings. The most western chamber is independent not associated with the others. The cliff face on the

outside of the monastery has many holes used for attachment of various items. In one of the main chambers a protected species golden eagle is nesting - the Egyptian vulture. At the foot of the rock, paintings have been preserved and relatively later signs - the earliest of these was done in 1781 and reads: "Zhilyasku Rahnyufa fled from Medvena 1840" and "Know this has been written by Zheku Stoyanuva and Neyku Doynuva fled from Kotila 1805 and came here to the Petrov River". From the writing it is clear that there were literate shepherds at that time coming from Kotel and the villages around it.

THE AUTHORS:

Valentina Kirova researcher-photographer

Plamen Mihaylov climber - photographer

References: 1. Êàðåë Øêîðïèë - Ìàòåðèàëû äëÿ áîëãàðñêèõ äðåâíîñòåé Àáîáà-Ïëèñêà,1905 ã. 2. Íèêèôîð Ãàíåâ - Ïðîâàäèÿ â ñâîåòî ìèíàëî è íàñòîÿùå,1929 ã. 3. Ñï.Ïëèñêà-Ïðåñëàâ - òîì 7,1995 ã. 4. Àíòîíèé Õàíäæèéñêè - Îáèòåëè â ñêàëèòå,1985 ã. 5. Àðà Ìàðãîñ - Ïúòóâàíå ïî Ïðîâàäèéñêèÿ ïðîëîì, â-ê ”Ïðîâàäèéñêè ãëàñ”, 1976 ã. 6. Âàëåðèé Ñèëîãàâà - Íîâè äàííè çà èñòîðèÿòà íà ãðóçèíñêî-áúëãàðñêèòå îòíîøåíèÿ 7. Àðà Ìàðãîñ - Ñòàðîáúëãàðñêàòà îáèòåë ïðè ñåëî Ðîÿê, 1975 ã. 8. Íèêîëàé Ïàíàéîòîâ - Ñêàëíèòå íàäïèñè îò ”Ñåâåðíàòà ïåùåðà”, 1977 ã. 9. Àðà Ìàðãîñ - Çà ”çàãàäú÷íèÿ” íàäïèñ ïðè ãð.Ïðîâàäèÿ, 1977 ã. 10. Âèîëåòà Âîåâà - Åêñïåäèöèÿ ”Ïðîâàäèÿ-75”,â-ê ”Ïðîâàäèéñêè ãëàñ”, 1975 ã.

1. Karel Shkorpil Material for Bulgarian Antiquities - Aboba Pliska, 1905 2. Nicephorus Ganev - Provadia in its past and present, 1929 3. Pliska-Preslav Magazine - Volume 7.1995, the 4. Anthony Handjiyska - Hermitage rocks, 1985 5. Ara Margos Travel the Provadian Gorge, the "Provadiski Voice” newspaper - 1976 6. Valery Silogava - New data on the history of Georgian-Bulgarian relations 7. Ara Margos - Old Bulgarian monastery in the village Royak, 1975 8. Nikolay Panayotov - Rock inscriptions from "North Cave", 1977 9. Margos Ara - The "mysterious" sign in Provadia, 1977 10. Violeta Voeva - Expedition "Provadia-75", the "Provadiski Voice" newspaper, 1975