The French Gazebo

4199 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton; 561/395-6033

Written by CHRISTIE GALEANO-DEMOTT

Tiffany blue has been an iconic color long before millennial pink ever had its moment. So, when I stepped into the newly renovated French Gazebo, the shade instantly evoked the restaurant’s elegant sophistication. Formerly Kathy’s Gazebo, this space has been a staple in our community for 40 years, but late last year new owners Anthony Crupi, a Boca resident, and Steve Botta, a Northeast restaurateur, purchased it and updated its design while keeping the same French classics on the menu. The crimson chairs and tufted booths have been replaced with Tiffany blue successors, the carpet is gone, dated wood accents have been swapped out for clean, modern lines, and luminous chandeliers add a hint of glamour. Tuxedoed staff warmly welcomed us in and helped us into our booth. Here, the table swivels from side to side, allowing us to effortlessly sit without having to awkwardly bounce around the banquette to find our tableware. An aperitif or glass of Champagne is offered before the warm baguette hits the table. We started with a classic French appetizer, the escargot Bourguignone ($18.95). The dish’s presentation tends to differ from restaurant to restaurant; here the delicacy is served in all its splendor: six spiraling shells, each tucked into a dimple oozing with garlic butter. Pro tip: Make sure to soak up all the saucy goodness with the baguette before your plate is whisked away.

The second starter, equally as French, were the crèpes royale. The paper-thin crepes were filled with tender crab, shrimp, scallops and mushrooms, and in true French fashion, the entire dish was finished in an incredible cream sauce. It was a sizable portion for an appetizer, yet it wasn’t too filling. My only note was that while the plate itself was piping hot, I wished the crepes were a bit warmer.

To honor its history, we ordered the famous Dover sole ($58.95), which has been a staple for decades here and another classic French dish. It’s elegantly rolled out on a gueridon, where the waiter intricately fillets it. There’s an option to enjoy the fish with either a brown butter meunière or frothy amandine sauce. We chose the amandine, which was equal parts buttery and delicate, with a slight crunch from the sliced almonds. It’s served with silky mashed potatoes, each bite more indulgent than the next (forget your fat-free diet here). We also ordered the duckling ($38.95), which is served with the sauce of the day—this evening it was a sweet, aromatic orange sauce with wisps of orange liqueur. The crispy skin led into tender, moist meat that I hoped would be easier to slice into. There seemed to be more bone than meat, unfortunately. Desserts ranged from quintessential treats like crème brulée and profiteroles to Key lime pie and the housemade bread pudding—and were a perfect ending to the dinner.