Condesa

3320 Airport Road, Boca Raton; 561/931-4008

CHRISTIE GALEANO-DEMOTT

exico’s bold, colorful and lively culture is reflected in its cuisine, and it’s evident at La Condesa. What was once a dimly lit, stark Irish pub has been revamped into a contemporary, bright space with subtle Mexican details.

The outdoor patio, airy bar and spacious interior were all buzzing the mid-week evening I visited. It was thrilling to see our community embrace this family-owned business, which debuted its take on Mexican fare about a year ago.

Our first stop into our Mexican food journey were the margaritas. Tequila lovers will find an impressive variety for every palate. I started with the jalapeño margarita ($14.99). It brought the heat but didn’t linger, and finished with refreshing citrus notes, which I enjoyed. Non-tequila enthusiasts have plenty of options, including mojitos, beers, wines and other specialty tropical cocktails.

The menu is sizable, with a wide selection of popular dishes like nachos, street tacos and burritos. While a plethora of online reviews serve as testaments that diners have enjoyed them, I wanted to try Mexican plates that perhaps haven’t made it mainstream yet. So, we traded taquitos and guacamole for goat cheese jalapeños ($12) and La Condesa tostadas ($12) and entrees like fajitas and quesadillas for the mole cazuelitas ($18.99). I did see that the guac is prepared tableside, allowing you to customize exactly what you want in it.

The moment we sat down, a basket of warm, crispy tortilla chips hit our table with a spicy salsa that enthusiastically sneaked up on our palate. The tostadas (two per order) are handmade corn tortillas with melted Oaxaca cheese that are then topped with tender steak, pico de gallo, avocado and lettuce. The meat was bursting with flavor, and the avocado gave the dish a creamy texture that complemented the tortilla’s crunchiness. The jalapeños, which were hollowed out and devoid of their spicy white seeds and ribs and then sauteed until blistered, were then stuffed with creamy goat cheese. The mellowed-out peppers still have a hint of spice, but the cheese, balsamic glaze and cilantro garlic salsa do an excellent job of softening it.

Mole, considered Mexico’s national dish, is a type of sauce. However, depending on where you are or who you’re talking to, it can come in many variations. Mainly consisting of nuts, seeds, chili peppers, dried spices and even dried fruit, it is sold in massive mounds of grounded powder that can then be made into the thick sauce. It’s usually used to dress meats, and in the mole cazuelitas it’s generously poured all over chicken strips, giving the dish layered notes of smokiness, sweetness and a light spice.

We ended the meal on a sweet note with a typical Mexican dessert: the churro ($6.99). Warm and crispy, it was dusted with cinnamon and sugar and drizzled with honey and chocolate. Its name, which is a chic and stylish Mexico City neighborhood, also translates to “countess,” and La Condesa’s friendly staff definitely gives its patrons the royal treatment.

Executive Chef / Restauranteur Steven Botta has added the former Kathy’s Gazebo to his portfolio of high end restaurants. The 40 year tradition of excellence continues in a newly reimagined and newly renovated space.

The name and decor may have changed but the menu has all the old menu favorites with some exciting new ones which will delight the palate. From the moment you arrive you will quickly realize that you have entered a restaurant where old world service is still the norm rather than the exception.

A throwback to the days when where guests become family and a place to make new memories while reminiscing about past ones. Come join us and see what all the excitement is about. We look forward to seeing you. Yevette, Steven and Anthony.