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DARBSTER
8020 S. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach
561/586-2622 darbster.com
What began as an animal lover’s passion is now one of South Florida’s most popular plant-based dining hot spots with two very special missions: provide delicious cuisine that appeals to both plant-based and mainstream diners while helping to fund a thriving animal rescue foundation.
“We were tired of driving to Fort Lauderdale for vegan food,” explains longtime vegetarian Ellen Quinlan who, in 2009, along with husband, Alan Gould, opened Darbster in West Palm Beach.
Themed “food we can all live with,” Darbster’s menus feature a wide array of beautifully curated organic and vegan options like crispy hearts of palm cakes with spicy caper remoulade, and Italian sliders with black bean ‘sausage,’ caramelized onion, red bell pepper and spicy paprika aioli.
“Being inexperienced, we spent about six months getting the initial menu together,” says Quinlan. “But since then, it’s been incredibly successful. Moreover, we just enjoy having a great neighborhood kind of joint with the foods we love—and with the added bonus of showing people that vegan food doesn’t have to be inedible.”
Attitudes toward plant-based food have radically changed over the years, adds Quinlan; a national learning curve and the trend toward healthier eating have helped her restaurant grow. “When we first opened, we intentionally never used the word ‘vegan,’ because it was a turnoff to people. We say ‘plant-based,’ because even though it’s vegan, it doesn’t carry the same negative connotation.”
Interestingly, most of Darbster’s clientele is not vegan, says Quinlan. At least until their first experience at Darbster. “We hear almost every night, ‘If I could eat like this at home, I could be a vegan.’ So, while I don’t think they leave as a convert, I do think they leave with an eye-opening experience.”
Named after the couple’s rescue dog, half of Darbster’s revenue helps fund the $1.4 million Darbster Foundation, which, since 2012, has rescued 14,000 unwanted cats and dogs from local shelters and transported them to their New Hampshire facility for adoption. More significant funding comes from grants as well as their annual Fur Ball, hosted this year at Club Colette, and purported to be the island’s only all-vegan event.
“My hope with our foundation is to, one day, be out of business,” smiles Quinlan. “Wouldn’t that be great?”
SIGNATURE DISH: Barley risotto with oyster and shitake mushrooms, cashew ‘goat’ cheeze, truffle oil, cherry tomatoes and cashew Parmesan; chicken parmigiana with panko-crusted chick’n, mozzarella cheeze, linguini, pomodoro sauce, basil oil, garlic bread and cashew Parmesan
SURE THING: Southwestern burrito with cilantro lime basmati rice, black beans, lettuce, tomato, cheddar cheeze, guacamole, sour cream and pico de gallo, in a sun-dried tomato wrap
LIVING ON THE EDGE: Raw bacon cheezeburger, a sunflower walnut herb burger with nacho cashew cheeze, eggplant ‘bacon,’ romaine, plum tomato, red onion and dill cashew mayo