RISE
ISSUE 001 AUTUMN/WINTER 2019
FASHION, ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY
UK £5.50 US $12.99
THE FUTURE IS THEIRS PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARCUS SCHAEFER VANESSA COYLE, GEORGINA GRAHAM, PABLO KUEMIN, PAULINA PIIPPONEN, EMILIE ASTROM, MAUDE VAN DIEVOET + CHRISTINA CLEMM
CONTENTS
02 04 12 17
EDITOR’S LETTER
OGHALE ALEX PHOTOGRAPHY
KATIE ROBERTS-WOOD FASHION
MARCUS SCHAEFER PHOTOGRAPHY
28 35 45 52
MAGNHILD KENNEDY ART
CLARK FRANKLYN PHOTOGRAPHY
WILLIAM FARR ART
RACHEL EBLIN PHOTOGRAPHY
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EDITOR’S LETTER
ISSUE 001
THE FUTURE IS THEIRS Welcome to the first issue of Rise. We hope you are suprised, inspired and generally blown away by the amazing showcase of ingenious people and their creative talents presented in this publication.
The need to produce this publication was drawn upon after noticing the lack of content in contemporary magazines regarding upcoming creatives. It was because of this that we felt that it was only necessary to create a whole publication featuring the forthcoming creatives about to enter the industry. These individuals offer something original within their work and we believe it is time for them to be noticed for what they have to offer. For the first issue we thought it was only fitting to feature the individuals who we have had our eye on for a while. We gave the issue the name ‘The future is theirs’ as we believe that these guys are truly owning their future at the moment and we are sure it is only the beginning for them. While we have shared with you their creative talents, we also wanted to give you an insight into their journey. We wanted to show you that while sometimes it might be challenging, it is always achievable if you work hard. All you have got to do is own it and most importantly of all, stand for something. Originality is key.
Jessica Beech Founder, Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
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“If you can dream it, you can do it.” - WALT DISNEY
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OGHALĂˆ ALEX PHOTOGRAPHER
Phoenix-based photographer, OghalĂŠ Alex, sheds light on the unnoticed through his ability to recognise a uniqueness within the most ordinary situations. Focusing on capturing the feelings, thoughts, and emotions that an image can conceal, he enables his viewers to feel a part of an inside story. The 25-year-old became fascinated with photography whilst making videos. Attracted by the 35mm lens and how all you could see within a photograph was in those 4 walls of the camera, is what led him to become the phenomenon he is today. "I don't know what made me pick up a camera," he says, "but all I can say is that it feels right". Alex has always found himself immersed within films, explaining that studying them in an analytical way inspires his work. It allows him to have a better understanding of images, enabling him to convey emotion more clearly within his work. "All of these different ways the films are shot is what gives us different moods and
feelings." He says. Intrigued by the way in which an image can display so many feelings, he finds himself engaged in the aspect of storytelling. "The fact that someone can take a still photo that can say so much without using any words is fascinating to me". Fashion photography has always provided Alex with an upper hand. It is through the fashion pieces that he uses, that we are able to get a better understanding of the message being conveyed. It has almost provided him with that extra voice. Recently Alex has become more concerned with capturing black men and women within his work. Being a man of an ethnic minority, he feels there is an absence that he can fill. He explained, "It has become increasingly important to me because there is so much grace and beauty in us that is hardly ever shown". His work amongst other things, will strive to show it and change the narrative.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: OGHALÉ ALEX MAKEUP: ROSSELLA APA STYLING: SYMONE KEISHA MODELS: BELLA SONTEZ AND TOSIN BODIJA
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FASHION DESIGNER
KATIE ROBERTS-WOOD
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANA CUBA MAKEUP: NICOLA BRITTIN STYLIST: LUNE KUIPERS HAIR: BEA CARMICHAEL MODEL: MIA HOWE
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PHOTOGRAPHY: ANA CUBA MAKEUP: NICOLA BRITTIN STYLIST: LUNE KUIPERS HAIR: BEA CARMICHAEL MODEL: MIA HOWE
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Obsessed around the idea of creating something original designer, Katie Roberts-Wood has devised a new way of making clothing. Combining aspects of repetition, nature and mathematical patterns, she creates an aesthetic that is instinctively beautiful yet chaotic and surreal all at once. The Nottingham born designer had initially studied Medicine with the belief that she would become a doctor. While she had always found herself intrigued by creative subjects, it was something that she perceived as an uncertain career. It was while she was at university that she taught herself how to make clothes, which led her to take up a Master's in fashion at the Royal College of Arts. Roberts-Wood has always found herself driven by an urge to make something original and decided that the only way she would be able to fulfil this idea was to create a new way of making;
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assembling garments through an alternative way. Most designers find themselves wielding a needle and thread however, Roberts-Wood has invented a non-stitch way of linking pre-engineered pattern pieces, allowing her to create three-dimensional garments. It was through this idea that she found herself awarded with the International Talent Support ‘Collection of the Year Award' for her MA graduate collection ‘SYNCH' as well as the Vogue Talents Award for her innovative construction techniques and bold aesthetics. Since graduating she has created her own brand which plays on the idea of femininity. Through exaggerated thrills and an unorthodox fabric palette, she sets an unusual tone with her silhouettes but also draws the attention deeper with robust prints being projected within pleats. The use of bold shapes allows her work to speak volumes while her intricate details retract a softspoken image.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: ANA CUBA MAKEUP: NICOLA BRITTIN STYLIST: LUNE KUIPERS HAIR: BEA CARMICHAEL MODEL: MIA HOWE
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SUCRAM REFEAHCS
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MARCUS SCHAEFER
MARCUS SCHAEFER
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MARCUS SCHAEFER ART DIRECTOR: PABLO KUEMIN MAKEUP: LUCY BRIDGE STYLIST: HARRY LAMBERT MODEL: JONNY
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Jessica Beech: When did you first become interested in photography? Marcus Schaefer: Back in 2011, an old friend of mine just got himself a new Canon 500D, which wasn’t really a professional camera, but still good enough to work on a more professional level, especially when using a high-quality lens. I once grabbed it and started playing around with it, pulling focus, using a longer exposure etc. that was something absolutely new to me and I was really fascinated by it, as I hadn’t done any sort of photography on that level before. I quickly realized that photography is a great way of expressing yourself and got the very same camera a couple of weeks down the line.
“Create a world beyond the reality we live in.”
JB: How would you describe your vision? MS: I’d describe my vision as surreal, melancholic and quite dark. JB: What influences your photographic practices? MS: There are actually a few things that influence my photographic practices. One of them is science. I love the scientific approach of studying objects, e.g. molecules, atoms, and orbitals in the chemical industry and the way they are usually showcased in charts or sequences of multiple images. I love the natural organic shapes and forms & the idea of electrons, neutrons & protons dashing around in a molecule, a certain state of entropy, but overall still keeping everything in order. 22
JB: How does your style differ? MS: That is a tough question and really depends on what or who I would compare my style with. But I generally believe that my approach to photography and the techniques I use are almost supposed to encourage the error in a photograph to get unplanned and unintended results. I honour the beautiful error since it’s a guarantor for unique imagery. Not sure if this necessarily makes my style very different to others, but I reckon it’s at least the approach and techniques that might differ to the majority of people of the industry because everyone’s got their own approach anyways.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MARCUS SCHAEFER MODEL: CECE
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MARCUS SCHAEFER SET DESIGN: LISA JAHOVIC MAKEUP: ERIN GREEN HAIR: PABLO KUEMIN MODEL: OLIVIA ANAKWE
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JB: How do you choose what you are wanting to shoot?
JB: What is exciting to you about where photography is heading?
MS: I subconsciously gather ideas and inspirations all the time and keep them in the back of my mind. Sometimes I even forget about them, but at some point, these ideas make sense with certain projects and surprisingly come back to me. I usually then just connect the dots.
MS: To be honest, not sure where photography is really heading right now, but that’s what makes it exciting. We are at a point where people have pretty much seen everything, and it’ll be very interesting to observe where photography is going to go from here.
JB: Exactly what is it you want to say with your photographs? And how do you actually get your photographs to do that?
JB: What would you say to someone just starting out in photography?
MS: Photography is a great medium to express your point of view and create a world beyond the reality we live in. I love taking the audience on a journey through my mind and visual world. Imagery that canalizes my very personal energy of dreams and ideas, rather than capturing and documenting the everyday life as we know and experience it every single day.
MS: Don’t ever shoot anything that you think people will like, shoot what you know you like.
JB: When someone looks at your photography, what do you want them to know about you? MS: I actually don’t want people to know anything about me when they look at my work, as it isn’t about me at all, it’s about the image and whatever emotions or feelings it might provoke in the observer’s mind. JB: What motivates you to continue with photography? MS: It’s the aesthetically pleasing feeling I get when I produce imagery I am really happy with, that’s what keeps me going. I have an addiction to creating imagery.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MARCUS SCHAEFER SET DESIGN: LISA JAHOVIC HAIR: TOMI ROPPONGI CLOTHES: MIUMIU
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MAGNHILD KENNEDY
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MAGNHILD KENNEDY ARTIST
Magnhild Kennedy, better known by the name Damselfrau, is a self-taught mask-maker, led by the phantasms appearing in the process of the making and the materials themselves. Yet it is not the mask she is interested in, but rather the way which the mask forms a place where various elements can come together and correspond. Born and raised in Norway, Kennedy grew up in a household where both of her parents were artists, so it was like she did not know anything else. Though, it wasn't until 2007, when she moved to London, that she felt like she had found her own form. The masks emerged through making costumes for clubbing, many years ago. She had made a few masks for a New Year's party that she was attending,
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and the format just seemed to have stuck from from the things she collects that help to lead the there. Working at a vintage designer shop at the making. time, she found herself surrounded by a variety of objects that became her inspiration. Kennedy has no particular interest with masks but an emotional connection with the materials she The name ‘Damselfrau' was given to the project uses. The mask has become a place where she can with no real reason. Damselfrau had been her gather her collecting's. "I come to the mask as a online avatar for many years way before she started form of sculpture" she says, "it's just a good format creating the masks. The name was just convenient to embellish". at the time. "It seemed so natural, so it became the project name". She refers to the mask as a place as she feels that it needs more to become a mask than what she can "Everything I do is organic" she explained. There offer. "The mask becomes itself when they meet are no initial ideas behind her creations, nor people's projection" she explains. She is merely the her practice, but simply her placing together creator, it is the wearer that makes it into an object various materials, what she names as play. Play is that exists. fundamental and it is from there that the materials sculpt themselves to create something. Kennedy features her masks on her website that is named ‘Damselfrau'. It is through her site that Inspired by almost anything, Kennedy sources she can be contacted for commissioned and her materials whenever and wherever she can. collaborative work. Though there are no set plans She believes that each object comes with its own for the future of Damselfrau, we can be sure to say personality, even if it is broken. It is the information that we will be seeing her work in many places.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MAGNHILD KENNEDY
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PHOTOGRAPHY: CLARK FRANKLYN STYLIST: DOGUKAN NESANIR MAKEUP: SUSANNA JONES HAIR: KALLE EKLUND MODEL: KLARA KRISTIN
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PHOTOGRAPHY: CLARK FRANKLYN STYLIST: DOGUKAN NESANIR MAKEUP: SUSANNA JONES HAIR: KALLE EKLUND MODEL: KLARA KRISTIN
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“The challenge is to not get left behind like an old DVD.” CLARK FRANKLYN
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Jessica Beech: How did you get into photography? Clark Franklyn: I actually thought I wanted to do car design after leaving school. I loved drawing when I was young, but that freedom of expression is just one aspect of design, and I quickly realised I wasn’t very suited to that. There are still constraints and technical aspects to photography, but almost no rules. That freedom attracted me. So, I went to study photography for two years in Bournemouth, then I moved to London and began working as an assistant and continued learning this way. At some point I became good friends with some fashion design students at Central Saint Martin (CSM) and started shooting their work - that’s how I started in fashion. JB: What do you love about photography?
JB: What are you inspired by? CF: My interest wanders quite a lot, to be honest. I’m inspired by the transformation that happens when things are photographed, but I’m curious to see how that works on all kinds of subjects. JB: What’s distinct about how you operate?
CF: So many things, but maybe more than anything; the continuing challenge of it.
CF: One thing might be that I use only digital cameras, but I’m influenced a lot by analogue practices.
JB: What do you aim to achieve through your photography? Is there something you want to represent in your photographs?
JB: Where do you want your work to progress in the future?
CF: For me, it’s a personal journey. The photography is a way to explore and understand things, and the photos represent what I managed to perceive about that subject. 40
CF: I don’t have a plan really. I’m aware of what I’m exploring currently, and where I will want to go after that is best not to think about too much I think. The challenge is to not get left aside like an old DVD. I think the answer is just to make the work more personal – that’s all I can bring!
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PHOTOGRAPHY: CLARK FRANKLYN
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PHOTOGRAPHY: CLARK FRANKLYN STYLIST: DOGUKAN NESANIR MAKEUP: SUSANNA JONES HAIR: KALLE EKLUND
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WILLIAM FARR
ARTIST
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIAM FARR
Multidisciplinary artist, William Farr is best known for his short-lasting sculptures. Combining manmade and natural objects he creates installations that carry no specific purpose but instead challenge to change the way in which we place value on things that remain only temporary in our lives. Farr has always found himself engaged in the creative field, explaining that he has always been interested in art and culture. It was while he was studying fashion design that he began working on the installations and it was just something that he has continued with naturally.
lifespans carry his process. Having no specific aim or goal for his creations, he allows his installations to grow spontaneously, a process that he describes as being “controlled chaos�. Farr was influenced to make his sculptures only temporary because we are only temporary. He believes that it is important that we change the way we place value on objects because they become only short-lived things in our lives that we do not really need. While he displays himself as being an avid collector of things, he does not keep anything. The value is in his work which he preserves through photographs, everything else is secondary.
The process of Farr’s work remains completely organic. He gathers a variety of materials and objects such as wires, flowers, Farr has his first solo exhibition in the Rebecca Hossack art and waste materials and lets chance encounters and plant gallery on Conway Street, May 22nd. 47
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RACHEL EBLIN
PHOTOGRAPHY: RACHEL EBLIN MAKEUP: RACHEL EBLIN HAIR: RACHEL EBLIN MODEL: KORAYA FAY
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Jessica Beech: Can you tell me a bit about yourself? Rachel Eblin: “28. Woman. Human/daughter/sister/friend/artist. I am all these things before an artist because our connections to each other and the world around us show up in our art whether we want it to or not.” Rachel Eblin is a 28-year-old, photographer and make-up artist. Inspired by the stories hidden within oneself, she tasks herself with capturing the true beauty she perceives inside a person. Eblin initially picked up a camera after feeling like her makeup was not being shown in the way that she had envisioned it. Photography had never been something she imagined herself doing but being able to fully execute an idea or feeling, was something she felt rewarded by. 54
Concerned with beauty in all forms, she looks to capture the unseen, something that pulls you to looks closer. “I aim to capture a moment in between anyone described feeling or emotion, something that pulls at the same string but at different ends.” She says. When it comes to fashion photography, she feels that she takes a more ‘natural’ path. Instead of focusing on every last set of detail, she concentrates on a capturing a moment. She believes this is what keeps her work feeling like hers.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: RACHEL EBLIN STYLIST: RACHEL EBLIN MODEL: BOCAR
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