ASOS by jessempson

Available at asos.com

N0733959 JESSICA EMPSON COMMUICATION AND MESSGAGE FASH20031

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INTRODUCTION

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I found the ASOS photography project the most enjoyable out of the three projects completed this term. This was due to the fact our group worked well and we had fun whilst creating our outcomes. I felt every member of the team contributed well, each having their own individual part to play and lending skills that were crucial to a successful outcome. Within the ASOS project once we had decided on the main idea, I took on the role of coming up with three concepts that could be taken forward for an outcome. I found inspiration from creative sources such as Wonderland Magazine and Dazed Magazine. One of the reasons for choosing this project was because I feel most excited about it and with my contribution on the project, I feel most comfortable writing it up. Also, I felt as though I did a good deal of very valuable in depth research to back up my insights and findings therefore making this project the most valid. In my opinion there is great scope to push this project more. Looking back at our final photographs I feel as though the concept could have been developed further. This visual report gives me the opportunity to explore other possible avenues for the photography brief and also room to push my outcome idea further.

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SECONDARY

I began my research with secondary sources. I first looked at all of ASOS’s social media sites including Instagram, Twitter and YouTube. These were a great start to the research process on this project. These sites offered me an insight into how the brand communicates with its consumer, while also offering me an insight into how the consumer receives the brand. On their Instagram account Asos have a hashtag #asseenonme, which offers consumers an opportunity to post photos of their Asos outfits. It promotes not only the individual but the brand and what products they have to offer. The hashtag also shares style ideas and gives other consumers options as to how to style the same garment or accessory. The website has a section dedicated to “Meeting the team” which offers consumers an opportunity to meet the employees of ASOS and follow their social media pages. This element of communication is unique to ASOS and promotes ASOS’s product range in an interesting, distinctive and interactive way. By using the #asseeonme it is easy to follow and to keep up to date with latest styles and products.

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RESEARCH

ASOS’s Instagram also offers highlights on style advice, helping consumers learn how to style their garments and how to wear the latest trends. They also highlight their sustainability on their Instagram page, teaching consumers how they can start to become more sustainable in day to day life and more environmentally friendly. While advertising their products through this story, they are also teaching a generation. ASOS also offers videos on Instagram TV, the subjects covering vast topics such as Answered questions on the Moon cup, to style collaborations with Little Mix and brand collaborations with Converse.

I think ASOS’s social media presence offers a perfect mix between serious,useful content and playful, creative content. They also offer a great example of how to promoteInstagram products also discreetly ASOS’s offers while high- informing the on topical issues such as suslightsconsumer on style advice, helping tainable fashion and mental health. consumers learn how to style their garments and how to wear the latest Twitter andalso ASOS’s website trends. They highlight their demonstrate susclearly the tone of voice that ASOS cartainability on their Instagram page, ries. Their tweets are and use huteaching consumers howcasual they can mour to communicate with their start to become more sustainableconsumer. in Their is youthful andenvironseems like friend day to tone day life and more to friendfriendly. banter,While creating a more relatable mentally advertising conversation betweenthisthestory, brand their products through theyand the The language of the product areconsumer. also teaching a generation. details on the website is also very informal ASOS also offers videos on Instaand TV, friendly. The website’s approach gram the subjects covering vast is almost as though a friend is persuading you topics such as Answered questions to buycup, the item, instead of a brand. on the Moon to style collaborations with Little Mix and brand ASOS’s with YouTube channel promotes collaborations Converse. I think products but it offers ASOS’s socialessentially, media presence offersan opportunity for ASOS to show their vision, a perfect mix between serious/useful voiceand andplayful, values.creative The channel content con- includes makeup routines and tent. They alsotutorials, offer a skincare great example videos exploring deeper social/political of how to promote products dismovements. One video explores Gender, creetly while informing the consumer Identity and Performance. ASOS here is on issues such as sustainable fashion all genders and sexualities in andpromoting mental health. a video essentially promoting products. It succeeds in also promoting ASOS’s narrative and message. The video on Gender and Identity shows real people enjoying being experimental with style/makeup, and expressing their identity which is essentially what ASOS believes in. ASOS is a brand that in my opinion wants fashion to enable not disable and this can be seen in the inclusivity shown through its social media sites and their YouTube channel.

BRAND WHEEL

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SECONDARY Fig 11

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RESEARCH #11

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PRIMARY

I used Netnography and interviewed my peers to get a deeper understanding of the ASOS consumer. I started my primary research with Netnography. I randomly selected some of ASOS’s followers on social media sites and viewed their own profiles. I also investigated the commentators and the “likes” of ASOS’s posts and viewed their profiles. I found this research insightful to begin my consumer profile however Netnography is mainly based on assumptions because you cannot have an in-depth understanding of the consumer. This is why I decided to informally interview some peers, as they are ASOS’s biggest demographic.

The Asos consumer lives a busy lifestyle and wants the ease and convenience of ordering from their fingertips using the Asos app. He/she is attracted to the free delivery and free returns making the process even more convenient.

The consumer is price sensitive and has either a The consumer is price has The either student loan or low tosensitive medium and income. cona student loan or low to medium income. The sumer tends to be a student or climbing the career consumer tends to be a student or climbing ladder. the career ladder. He/she follows current trends, keeps their wardrobe He/she current trends, theira wardup tofollows date by buying a fewkeeps pieces month to robe up to date by buying a few pieces a keep up to date. They seek a mix of unique one-off month to keep up to date. They seek a mix of pieces such as a vintage Fila sweatshirt and everyunique one-off pieces such as aand vintage day essentials such as socks white Fila t-shirts. sweatshirt and everyday essentials such as andprices white and t-shirts. They want latest trends at socks the best this is

what ASOS provides. The consumer wants their style They want latest trends at the to best defineprices their and identity this is what ASOS provides. The consumer wants their style to define their identity.

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In their spare time, the Asos consumer enjoys shopIn their spare time,attending the Asos consumer enjoys ping, going to gigs, festivals and going shopping, going to gigs, attending festivals and out for dinner/ drinks with friends. They save money out for with friends. They forgoing holidays withdinner/ friendsdrinks in Europe and weekends save money for holidays with friends in Europe away in England. and weekends away in England.

RESEARCH RESEARCH

From the interviews I created a detailed consumer profile. The Asos consumer is an ambitious 20 something, open minded individual who forms strong opinions on political issues including social and economic matters such as equality. They actively communicate their opinions on such issues using social media apps such as Twitter and Instagram.

He/she lives lives a a fast fast pace pace life, life, regularly regularly posting posting on He/she on social to publicise the events and social mediamedia to publicise the events and activities activities they get up to on a daily/ weekly they get up to on a daily/ weekly basis. The female basis. The regularly female consumer regularly consumer posts Outfit of Theposts Day Outfit (OOTD) of The Day (OOTD) pictures on Instagram and pictures on Instagram and Snapchat. Snapchat.

GENDER NEUTRAL

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GENDER IS IRRELEVANT

I wear gender neutral clothing almost every day. At least I will wear one garment in an outfit that could be worn by any gender. Its undeniable that we are moving into a time where gender is one of the least important elements of someone’s identity. With the brief in mind, we wanted not to do the obvious and put men in women’s clothing and vice versa. We wanted to do something current and real, just like ASOS. When looking at competitors we saw that both Zara and H&M have gender neutral collections. Zara last year started modelling some of their garments on both men and women. In 2016 Zara released a unisex line named ‘ungendered’. It included garments such as basic hoodies, T-shirts in neutral colours. However, in my opinion that is only touching the surface of what gender-neutral clothing is about and it goes further than a girl wearing her boyfriend’s jumper or jeans. It is about creating clothing for men and women that is both feminine and masculine.

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In 2019 we want more options, for example we want women’s dresses in sizes that will be long enough for a tall man. It is all about inclusivity as this is something ASOS believes in and preaches about. This is why I think this photo story with a gender neural theme is perfect for ASOS.

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We investigated celebrities and icons in music, fashion and culture who pushed boundaries in genderless dressing. I was particularly interested in singer Grace Jones as her identity is between two normative genders and she used her style to express that. She refused to be labelled and categorised by society just like David Bowie. I was also interested in the fashion shoots she did, her chiselled features and masculine poses gave a presence like no other icon. The way people pose normally suggests a gender and that insight could be an interesting photo story for a brand like ASOS. When looking into genderless dressing in 2018, the biggest style/trend would be streetwear. Streetwear is mostly unisex pieces, only styled a little differently for females and males. Both men and women wear the same style shoes such as Converse, Vans and Adidas trainers. This year unisex streetwear brands have been popping up everywhere in the UK and the US, but where did streetwear come from? Streetwear is a style that incorporates skate culture, sportswear and elements from hip-hop fashion. As a group we found interest in skateboarding and the culture surrounding it, because it’s a sport that is largely male dominated. We found this could be an exciting way of presenting genderless dressing using a mix of streetwear and skate culture.

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Tokyo is ahead of Britain in many ways, but especially in terms of being fluid within fashion. In recent years they have been pushing boundaries with gender neutral clothing. This may be because of the growing numbers of men identifying as “genderless”. The trendy district of Harajuku is now a catwalk for latest genderless dressing trends. As recently acknowledged in a CNN style article: “Some, like celebrity model Ryuchell, insist that they are neither cross-dressing nor, necessarily, gay. Nor are they transgender in the sense of having a gender identity that differs from the sex they were assigned at birth” (1), instead they are simply expressing themselves and their identity.

In luxury fashion recently we have seen brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Haider Ackerman having co-ed runway shows. While Louis Vuitton has had transgendered models walk the runway, the most noticeable and loud designer embracing the fluidity of fashion and genderless dressing is Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele. Since Michele’s rein as creative director at Gucci, the model casting has included transgender models and models that enjoy genderless dressing such as Central St Martins student fashion designer Harris Reed. Gucci’s catwalk shows female models strutting down wearing clothing from the men’s collections and vice versa. Michele explains “it seems only natural... it’s the way I see the world.” (2) Michele’s recent collections have been heavily embellished and lavishly feminine all for men.

INSIGHTS

ASOS’s campaign ‘My Style Is Never Done’ is about encouraging consumers to explore every part of their personal style. It’s a video based on self-expression using bold visuals which spreads a message that ASOS wants fashion to enable their consumers and not disable. This campaign showed one model having an alter ego or alternative persona which gave me an idea that in our final photo story we could have one model with different styles or have multiple models with completely contrasting and diverse styles and personas. The model selection for our outcome was crucial in order to match ASOS’s style and personality of expression as we wanted the models to stand out. The strong visuals of ASOS’s campaigns, mean our photo story needs to have a loud, fierce presence, full of expression and colour.

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When researching ASOS and the brand I found major insights while looking at their fashion campaigns online and in their magazine. Their campaign ‘Go Play’ was a young, loud and an exciting way to promote their face and body products. The model selection was refreshing, celebrated diversity with models of all sizes and styles. The inclusive campaign showed models from all backgrounds, ethnicities and genders therefore representing ASOS’s community of consumers. I think this campaign showed ASOS’s constant drive to challenge people’s ideas and aesthetics of beauty. ASOS as a brand is in my opinion the one pushing boundaries, keeping up to date with trends but more importantly keeping up to date with society and want the consumers want. Topshop for example has fallen behind, because they weren’t listening to what was changing in society and what the young, experimental generation wanted. The ‘Go Play’ campaign was blurring lines between male and female ideals and that is what we want to take forward and use for our photo story, while keeping the it unique, young and fresh.

CONCEPTS

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At first I think our group struggled with coming up with creative concepts. We were not sure about how to take our research forward and use it to create some ideas that were new, fresh and exciting. However, whilst trying to brainstorm concept ideas by myself, I turned to Wonderland magazine. In the Autumn issue I found inspiration for the first three concepts.

MASK YOUR IDENTITY

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The Mask Your Identity concept was inspired by the latest trend for Autumn/Winter 2018, balaclavas. I noticed the balaclavas in adverts by Gucci and Calvin Klein. I also read an article about them in a STYLE magazine issue just after I saw the adverts. After seeing balaclavas being used on the catwalks, I was interested in the idea of literally covering the face of our model, therefore removing the gender from the shoot entirely. By using genderless garments with a balaclava, it would be hard to identify the gender of the model. We liked the idea of using the balaclava with a skateboarding styling theme and the location being either a skate park or an estate.

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MASK YOUR IDENTITY

SKATE COUTURE

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The Skate Couture concept was my favourite, but the hardest to deliver well in my opinion. This idea was inspired by both a Celine campaign and also the recent BBC drama ‘KILLING EVE’. The Molly Goddard dress in Killing Eve inspired the idea of skate culture, something casual and boyish with the contrast of couture styling. Our group was drawn to the low angle shots, with the background being more than 50% sky. I was drawn to the urban location contrasting with the expensive and feminine styling. This concept would use ASOS’s own products as we found some great tulle dresses.

HIDDEN PARADE The Hidden Parade concept was inspired by the idea of covering/removing the gender of the model, similar to the first concept. It was a concept I developed after seeing a shoot in Wonderland magazine, and also inspired by Russian graphic designer and artist Alexander Rodchenko. I was drawn to the shoot because of its playfulness with shapes and primary colours. This reminded me of ASOS’s personality. The concept involved taking photos of models and using photoshoot to hide their identities using shapes and colour. We also wanted to use ‘afterlight’ effects which altered the image to create a film camera effect.

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ALEXANDER RODCHENKO

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HIDDEN PARADE

ICON IDENTITY

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The Icon Identity concept was an idea developed from my research into gender neutral fashion, and the icons that defined the trend. The idea is that models are styled like genderless icons but in a modern way that would use ASOSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products and interest the young consumer.

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ICON IDENTITY

URBAN STYLE

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The Urban Style concept is inspired by ASOSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current campaigns. I am attracted to their choice of expressive, individual models. Their use of all shapes and sizes makes their campaigns so inclusive. Another way of making the shoot more inclusive and fun would be to use not models but real people. I liked the idea of using real people who have adopted the gender-neutral trend but also real people who are genderless. The images would be almost like street style photos, which are incredibly free and casual. The people would not look staged or posed but as though they were getting on with their everyday life but in amazing clothing. I was inspired by the fashion editorials for Harpers Bazaar that look like street style images.

CHOOSEN CONCEPT

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Our decision on which concept to take forward was based on which idea we thought we could successfully execute and most importantly the idea we were all excited about. The second concept based on Couture Versus Urban was most popular amongst our group and we received great feedback from our tutor group, which gave us the confidence to push the idea further.

OUTCOME LOCATION

For our outcome location, we visited two possible locations in Nottingham. One was Sneinton Market which had great graffiti art covering walls of run-down buildings. The graffiti was fitting with our skate theme and added a playful pop of colour for backgrounds of images. Fig 35

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However, we ended up choosing a local skate park as I was drawn to the various heights of buildings, the texture of the autumn leaves on the ground and the loud graffiti on the side of skate ramps.

OUTCOME STYLING & CASTING

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We chose peers to be our models, to create a relatable fashion story that the ASOS consumer would enjoy. All the models brought pieces from their wardrobes to give us a glimpse of their own individual identity and style. We then used ASOSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pay later and bought feminine, tulle dresses to be worn over the street wear pieces. The makeup was done by the models again to show their own style and keep the shoot honest. We used skateboards as props which gave the shoot more of a story and depth. We took photos of the surroundings, and the graffiti on trees to create backgrounds for our images for our final outcome.

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GEN SKATE

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I think we have successfully

answered the brief as we have created an on-brand photo story promoting ASOSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own products. We have taken the gender-neutral fashion trend in a modern, and on brand way. I think our client would enjoy how we pushed skate style in a unique and cool direction. My concern was that our concept was not ground breaking or radical enough for the brief, however I think our outcome follows the ASOS magazine editorial direction and fulfils the brief perfectly. I enjoyed this project the most because our group dynamic worked so well,

participating fully and we had fun whilst completing tasks. I think we were good as a group delegating tasks to the right people with the right skills to make sure each element of the project was completed to the best

of our ability and standard.

We all

spoke confidently in presentations and I think it showed through how happy and excited we all were about our outcomes. Individually I think I worked efficiently and effectively on the tasks delegated to me. I work well alone in my own space, but I think my main strength is working well within a team. I enjoy being able to bounce my ideas off people and this is what helped me push Fig 46

and de-

velop our concepts further.

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REFLECTION

with everyone

REFERENCES

(1)EXPLORING JAPAN’S ‘GENDERLESS’ SUBCULTURE (WEBSITE) “Some, like celebrity model Ryuchell, insist that they are neither cross-dressing nor, necessarily, gay. Nor are they transgender in the sense of having a gender identity that differs from the sex they were assigned at birth” In text:(CNN style,2018) Your bibliography: CNN style (2018) Exploring Japans ‘Genderless’ subculture. (online) available at: https://edition. cnn.com/style/article/genderless-kei-fashion-japan/index.html [Accessed 18 December 2018] (2)WHO SAYS THEY’RE WOMEN’S CLOTHES? THE RISE OF GENDER NEUTRAL WEAR (WEBSITE) “it seems only natural.. it’s the way I see the world” In text: (Exquisite,2018) Your Bibliography: Exquisite. 2018 WHO SAYS THEYRE WOMENS CLOTHES? The rise of gender neutral wear (Online)Available at: http://www.exquisite.ie/gender-neutral-clothes/ [Accessed 20 December]

BIBLIOGRAPHY

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Front cover- Own image from photoshoot Figure 1- Own image from photoshoot Figure 2-Contact sheet with own images from shoot Figure 3-Own images used making front cover options Figure 4-Own images used making front cover options Figure 5-Own images for background Figure 6-Brand wheel Figure 7-Own image from shoot Figure 8-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 9-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 10- Own image from shoot Figure 11-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 12-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 13-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 14-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 15-Own image from photoshoot Figure 16-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 17-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 18-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 19-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 20-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 21-Own image from shoot Figure 22-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 23-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 24-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 25-Own image from shoot Figure 26-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 27-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 28-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 29-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 30-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 31-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 32-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 33-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 34-Moodboard from sketchbook work Figure 35-Sketcbook work Figure 36-Sketchbook work Figure 37-Contact sheet using own images from shoot Figure 38- Outcome images from shoot Figure 39-Outcome images from shoot Figure 40-Outcome images from shoot Figure 41-Outcome images from shoot Figure 42-Outcome images from shoot Figure 43-Outcome images from shoot Figure 44-Outcome images from shoot Figure 45- Own images from shoot Figure 46-Own images from shoot Back page-Own image from shoot

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Websites https://www.asosplc.com https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/zara-gender-neutral-men-women-model-sames-clothes-fashion-shopunisex-a8053676.html https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/gender-neutral-fashion \https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/genderless-kei-fashion-japan/index.html http://stylevitae.com/is-gender-neutral-clothing-the-future-of-fashion/ https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/40206/1/what-fashion-needs-to-understand-about-being-gender-neutral https://www.mrporter.com/daily/is-the-term-streetwear-becoming-obsolete/3275 https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/fashion-androgynous-icons-annie-lennox-prince-david-bowie https://www.gq.com/story/androgyny-trend-menswear https://www.bustle.com/articles/149928-the-evolution-of-androgynous-fashion-throughout-the-20th-century-photos https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/trends/a20659936/androgyny-isnt-a-woman-wearing-trousers/ https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-45886788 https://www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/asos-uncommon-break-fashion-conventions-inclusive-clothing-label/1495009 https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/asos-hosts-future-of-fashion-conference/2018092639146 https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/asos-sustainable-fashion-training-programme https://www.circa.com/story/2018/06/14/fashion/japans-genderless-kei-fashion-trend-rejects-gender-identities-but-itsnot-cross-dressing https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/japan-s-history-of-gender-a7607311.html https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/2016/06/114795/japanese-fashion-kei-agender https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/japanese-youth-genderless-fashion_us_59665a5fe4b09b587d644107?ec_ carp=5144165701625369574 https://fashioneditorials.com/harpers-bazaar-hong-kong-may-2016-flavia-lucini-by-elio-nogueira/ Books •Sheila Heti, Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton,Women in Clothes: Why We Wear What We Wear, 4 September 2014 •Patrick Mauriès, Androgyne: Fashion + Gender, 2017 Magazines •Vogue •ASOS •I-D •Wonderland •The Gentle Women

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

APPENDIX: research methodology

N0733959 JESSICA EMPSON COMMUICATION AND MESSGAGE FASH20031

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Consent forms