Conte
ents
Inspiration This collection combines the influence of Holland & Sherry with an urban element to create a contemporary high-end collection, with 80 ‘s elements of power dressing, all designed for SS17. Influencing the collection initially, was Robert Irwin in Another Minimalism, it was his use of shadows and tones, which helped inspire the research into Lucinda Walker, Ruth Bernard & Anna Effatova. They influenced the collection heavily, with the use of black and white shadow photography, for a darker toned colour pallet, and the angular shapes within the laser cut design. Holland and Sherry contributed with the inspiration of traditional fabrics, particularly the Hound Tooth fabric, which had been woven in a miss match design. This lead to research into classical fabrics, where the herringbone weave further inspired the print development with a miss match combination on angles. The collection’s silhouette ideas are based upon 80’s power dressing, to create strong silhouette with structure, varying from broad shoulders to slim waists, achieved by wrapping of waistbands. Contemporary influence arose from the catwalk, with Jonathan Saunders, for his wrap over techniques; big waist ties and recreation of a tailored work wear. Jil Sander influences the collection through the cut outs and reinvention of tailoring, taking forward cut outs, lapels and longer hemlines.
Inspiration The collection’s colour pallet is inspired from the development of common colours throughout the sketchbook, combined with SS17 research. Ruth Bernard, Lucinda Walker and Anna Effatova inspire black tones, through their shadow photography. The peach and blue colour was selected from a combination of Vintage 80’s, SS 17, and Another minimalism research. The metallic tones in the collection are originally inspired by Robert Irwin’s piece in Another Minimalism, with the refraction and shadows of light creating an influence of metallic, which further influences foiling techniques. The design for the foiling came from a diffusion of the laser cut design, simplifying the idea as it suited the garments, and didn’t take away from the overall design. The fabric ideas were created from Holland & sherry for the use of high quality wool and fine silks. The nylon is optic black, which is selected for its reflective appearance as it relates to the original inspiration of light refraction in Robert Irwin’s piece, from “Another minimalism”. The optic nylon was also seen as an urban and contemporary selection. Silver/ grey knit wear was chosen for its weave, it had a similar pattern to my laser cut. The finishing’s on the garments are linings and facings where possible and blind hems, French seams and plain open seams for the best finish. The collection is aimed at female professionals 25 years of age and older, the reason for a broad age spectrum is anyone can be fashionable in a work environment with very little limitation coming from age. A good example of the type of occupation would be someone involved in mathematics, politics or science.
Holland &
& Sherry
The visit to Holland and Sherry revealed the links between heritage and innovation within fabric and fashion. Holland and sherry are a very well established company, using traditional and fine fabrics of high quality supplying The visit to Holland and Sherry revealed the links between heritage and innovation within globally, they provide the traditional fabric and fashion. Holland and sherry are a part of the innovation. Once the fine very well established company, using traditraditional quality element tional and finehigh fabrics of high quality sup- has plying globally, the they innovation provide the traditional been supplied can begin part of the innovation. Once the fine tradiwith a designer, creating a modern take tional high quality element has been supplied onthe the fabric, weather ita be re-masterinnovation can begin with designer, creating a modern take tailoring on the fabric, ing traditional orweather usingitthe be re-mastering traditional tailoring or usfabric as a muse to combine with other ing the fabric as a muse to combine with other fabrics. The essence of innovation fabrics. The essence of innovation is within is the creative as the mind, traditional fabric within the mind, creative as the tradoesn’t have to be used to create a garment, ditional fabric doesn’t have to be used it can be used to inspire a garment, with the toformation createofa traditional garment, weave. it can used to Thebe colour pallet ofathe traditional weavethe can inspire inspire garment, with formation innovation of the fabric, by re-printing ofthe traditional weave. The colour paland re designing the weave. let of the traditional weave can inspire the innovation of the fabric, by re-printing and re designing the weave.
The visit to Holland and Sherry inspired fabric in silhouette for a more modern and urban feel. Using ting into fine wool, can create a new method of us which could be added into a thicker fabric, such as Other ways in which the fabric could be reinven ditional weaves in the fabric. Scanning in fab weave into new colours and getting this woven, colour pallet. The innovation doesn’t jut have t manipulated to become a laser cut pattern or e Another way in which Holland and Sherry fabric in through silhouette. The company supplies a lot o Row, This inspired the traditional silhouette in ply to are super brands such as Prada, Dior and B walk tailoring which is urban and modern. Consi ric manipulation with cut outs in the fabric and
The trip to Holland and Sherry was incredibly informati supply to. This gives the ideas of whom is using their f a perspective on what those designers have done with th the trip being valuable is it gave a real insight int
nnovation by re-mastering the traditional tailored g a variety of methods, one of which is laser cutsing traditional fabric. Etching is another method, a cashmere or thick wool, this would add detailing. nted is by taking a more innovation through trabric and using CAD to reproduce the traditional knitted or printed onto fabric to create a new to stop with colour pallet; the design could be etching for a more 3D effect within the fabric. nspires the re-mastering of traditional fabric is of fabric to traditional tailored such as Savile nto a modern context. Other companies they supBurberry; this inspired me to think of luxury catidering these point’s methods such as using fabpanels to create new shapes into the silhouette.
ive to see how they use fabric as a company and whom they fabric, enabling some research and knowledge to create he fabric, further inspiring ideas. Another reason for to what high quality fabrics feel, look like and cost.
SS
17
This trend was selected f ement, it inspires new sh ser cuts, which were explored
for the laser cutting elhapes and layering of lathrough out sketchbook work.
This trend was selected for the high octane these were taken as loose inspiration as not fit well with a traditional work styl and diltuted into softer tones, creatin
e colours relating to the 80’s inspiration, s the bright colours such as these would le pallet. They were used as inspiration ng a summery input to the colour pallet.
This trend inspires a hand drawn approach to the laser cut. This can be later developed into a computerised version ready for print or laser cut. The trend also inspires the use of a floral element in the prints, weather this be a seperate print or as part of another. This could also be developed into thr formation of a delicate floral lace.
80’s
Research
“Style is an expression of individualism mixed with charisma. Fashion is something that comes after style.� John Fairchild.
Powerdressing
Broad Shoulders, Small waists, High w wear style, all influenc
wasits, 3/4 Length, Blazers and work ces the design process.
YSL
“Fashions Fade, Style Is Eternal” YSL
The Pastel Colours are inspiring towards the SS17 pallet.
Designer
Research
Johnothan Saunders
The use of wrapover trouser and classical shapes rewor workwear silhouette. Highly developm
rs and bow ties, high waists, rked the traditional tailored y inspring within the design ment stage.
Jil S
Sander
Jil Sander is inspiring with her use such as the cut outs, wrap
e of modern adaptionsin tailoring p overs and dropped hems.
Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung is inspiring for his use of panels within his garments and modern use of methods on his tailoring such as his lael pannels.
Laser
Cut
Development
Repeat Patterns and a mash up of classical fabric inspirations are brought together within print exploration. This type of print was developed into a simpler design which would work better in more areas of a garment.
Singular development of the one of the classical fabric weaves were experiemented on, this is herringbone. Ink and prints recreate the weave.
The herringbone weave was develop interesting , through exploration. T er different classical weave inspi part of the developement, utalising ringbone weave was deconstructed an appllicable for a laser cut and cm
ped further as it was proven most The exploration of mixing togethirations into one laser cut became the weave at all angles. The harnd pieces back together to make it mobined the miss match print idea.
Final
La
aser
Cut
This print was developed from the in fabrics at Holland & Sherry, su hounds tooth. The missmatch fabr to this point of development, whe wea
e inspiration of traditional weave uch as herringbone and the mis match ric has been re interpeted to get ere it combines another traidtional ave.
Foiling
Foiling was decided up on as it fitted the colour scheme of the collection well. After testing where the foiling should be placed it , the knit wear became an domninant choice as when it stretched it cracked and gave a desirable look. The colour of the foil added to the knit wear as the silhouette of the knit was simple. The design for the foiling remained mininmal and like a diffusion of the laser cut, as this was not to complex and time consuming to create.
Target
Market
The market level of the collection is for aged 25 years and upward, much like Sadi politically based,living in the southe everyday, in her Mercedes. Sadies occup jobs, having more disposable income all Sadies comes from a middle to upper ciation for the finer things in life with it filling her weekend, as wel from work and her childhood.Her pe with a strong mind and determination she wants and works for it, howev Saides hobbies are reading non fi such as Charles Dickins, other hobb
r high end fashion, specifically females ie pictured right. Saides occupation is ern countryside and commuting into work pation allows for a high salary than most lowing purchases from this market level. r class background with a real appee. Family is very important to Saide ll as social events with her friends ersonality reflects her upbringing, n, she is opinionated and knows what ver she also takes time to listen. iction book, and time less classics bies include horse riding and Polo.
Sadie would prefer a nice restraunt over a bar, being an avid wine concaseour, who socially drinks. Sadies shopping habbits are mainly buying one to two high end pieces a month matched, as a statement, with some more casual pieces from the mid market level. Sadies buys her clothes as statement pieces in her wardrobe, rarely if ever buying from high street. Her shopping would be done on a saturday before or after a lunch or dinner date with friends. Other brands which Sadie shops at are, Chanel, YSL, Valentino, Burberry & Armani.
Market
Level
Brand
Ambassador
The ideal muse/ Ambassador for the brand is Michelle Obama, a high ranked political socialite of the 21st century. A modern and sophisticated woman, with a powerful family. Although she worked up from a lower class back ground, her perdonality fits the brand well. A very opinionated, justified, determined person with the power and will to listen to others. Being such a famouns individual and her power over millions of people, as the presidents wife, her style can be incredibly influencial. Not only does Michelle wear luxury brands and fabrics, she also wears bright colours and a contrast pallet.
Mood
Board
Colour
Pallet
Fabric
Board
The fabric ideas were created from Holland & sherry for the use of high quality wool, and fine sateen’s. The nylon is in optic black material, which is selected for its reflective appearance, as it relates to the original inspiration of light refraction in Robert Irwin’s piece, from “Another minimalism”. The embroidered lace is metallic and adds further detail into the collection, heavily inspired by the catwalk designers, Vera Wang for the metallic and sheer, and Thom Brown for the embroidery.
Line
Up
The design elements within the collect apply an urban accent. One of the main is the laser cut, inspired by primril was used as it is something i have ne ous part of my design process. The wa the collection was through vectorisin the design, this was done for accuracy design woul Another design element would be the f colour from inspiration sourced from A ert Irwins 1966 piece. This technique as on the knit wear and on areas Metallic zips are one the key elelemt ing to the collection, the silver insp however the contrast of having black moving towards urban and away from wor for a more utilatarian approach as the is a hard wearing Oversized pockets were used within the ets, these were an atempt to recreat pocket and make it more The proccess for these design features and appointments and testin
tion, feature mainly as techniques to design features within the collection ly Holland and Sherry. This technique ever used before, and became an obviay in which this element was added to ng the pattern pieces and implimenting y so the seams would be neater and the ld sit flat. foiling which was added as a metallic Another Minimalism, specifically Robe was used over specific garments such s such as sleeves and belt ties. tns chosen to add a more urban feelpired again throug Another Minimalism, in the zip allowed further contrast, rk wear. The chunkier zip also allowed ey are easy to use and longevity as it g design element. collection, specifically jetted pockte the traditional idea of the jettet e functional and urban. s took forward planning through order ng to gain the desired look.
Technical
Drawing
Chosen
Designs
T
o
o
o
l
s
“Tools are the apparatus needed to suceed”
As this collection is high end t of a higher quality. This chang four thread over locking was n ing, lining and facings are a f lined or faced to conceal raw edg sheers, blind hem machine, lock a tape m
the finishing methods need to be ges the tools used, for example not used commonly, french seamfeature.The heavier fabrics are ges. Basics tools such as chalk, stitch sewing machine, pins and measure.
Finished
Product
Evalua
ation
This report will be evaluating all areas of the projectfrom research to final outcome. The collection was urban luxe, combining the idea of soft tailing with methods such as laser cutting and foiling to create a collection of six full outfits and creating two of them. The theme for the collection I feel was researched and in depth enough to create a successful collection. My research came from a number of primary and secondary sources, however, the area that needed furthering is the primary research, which would allow a greater understanding. The sketchbook for the project is highly creative and explores a lot of print ideas and silhouettes, the improvements I would make for the sketchbook is to develop the use of media further and create a more professional looking sketchbook. This would be achieved by a use of no tie in strings and making the outside of the sketchbook as presentable as possible. The collection was designed for the market of professional 25 year olds upwards Suitable for the market level, I feel this market level was reached with the use of colour and design elements such as the zips and laser cut. However for the diffusion line of the collection I would have made it more youthful to suit the idea of a diffusion range. The colours in the collection are suitable for spring summer; the pink brightens the collection allowing it to fit in. I feel overall the collection was justified thoroughly, as when the colour pallet was selected it was collected from every area of the research and refined. I feel it would have been interesting to take the colour pallet very tonal and minimal creating a black white and grey collection, however to incorporate all research this would not have worked. The fabrics in the collection were varied, the most urban was the optic nylon which was quite tricky to work with, it didn’t blind hem on the machine, so it had to be done by hand and top stitching didn’t look good on it. The cotton sateen was very easy to work with and appears as a fine fabric of high quality as it is 100% natural fiber; the only issue with the fabric is how easily it creased. The blue wool, was the right thickness for summer and appeared a simple addition to the collection. The knit fabric was changed through the making process from a fine viscose knit to a thicker elastic and viscose blend, as it suited the collection in colour and knit better. Overall the fabric choice for the collection I feel could have been more urban by using a wider variety of unusual fabrics such as the optic nylon.
The laser cut design for the collection was developed through what I believe is substantial research, however I feel there could be more development on this design to take it further or in another direction. This could mean using it through a different method such as foiling or digital print. I feel where the laser cut has been used it has been used well, however it could have been developed into the silhouette in more skilled way, other than just panels. The foiling in the collection was not highly complex and developed from the laser cut. This could have been improved on by developing something different to the laser cut but along the same theme or using more of the foiling to create a print on a fabric. The way the foiling was used on the garments I feel suits the style in which was intended, simplistic. The qualities of the garments I feel are high in comparison to what I have made before. The jackets for the collection went well in the majority however the pockets caused a lot of issue when being put in as the pocket slits were cut too long and the jets weren’t long enough meaning when the pockets were un picked and redone the fabric had already frayed and made it hard to catch all the stray parts. The pocket bag of the left pocket in the blue waistcoat moved and became caught and visible in the blind, this could have been fixed by redoing the pocket but as the fabric had frayed it was decided that it should be left alone. The lining in both jackets should have had a 2cm pleat in the back however this was forgotten on production and therefore would be amended by making sure this is not forgotten. The optic nylon on the pink jacket got burnt in pressing which meant that is became wrinkled and didn’t give the desired effect. The trousers in the collection were as intended and I encountered no problems in production. The shirt dress I feel was well made in the majority and as intended, however the optic nylon was a bad choice of fabric for the hem as it makes the piece look cheap and slightly 1960’s, it also had to be blind hemmed by hand because the machine ruined the fabric. The knitwear piece I feel was well made and it didn’t cause any issues. The shirt I feel was well made using French seams as this worked well in the fabric, the only area, which proved complex was the collar, due to the optic nylon fabric being very tricky to work with. Having two highly contrasting fabrics together meant that sewing them would have to be done in one colour so the lighter colour was chosen as this would be visible on the outside of the shirt. The finishing’s on the collection were highly thought about to fit the market level, seams where needed were French seams or faced/ lined. The hems of garments if not lined were over- locked and blind hemmed. Overall I believe my collection was successful in terms of creating urban wear appropriate from summer with taking influence from all the designated areas and more. However I feel that the outfits made needed consideration on fit more which meant toils needed to be more detailed.
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