ISSUE THREE -
EDITOR & CHIEF JESSICA GREENE
Off.
A Future Trend Briefing
MENS & WOMENS
SPRING SUMMER 2016
BREAKING THE MOULD TO CREATE GROTESQUE BEAUTY THAT OOZES VULGARITY
RAGGED REBEL
MEN’S AND WOMEN’S
SS16 TREND FORECAST
PREFACE 4 INTRODUCTION 5 TREND DRIVERS 6-7 TREND BRIEFING 8 - 33 PANTONES 34 MATERIALS 35 TREND TAKEAWAYS 36 REFERENCES 37 -
PRE FACE People’s desire to belong — through blending in fuels the growing lack of distinction between different kinds of people, when looking at style and dress. Therefore this Spring Summer 2016 trend; Ragged Rebel, endeavours to provide a direct antithesis to mainstream fashion, by highlighting counter cultural shifts taking place. By bringing to light these social movements individuals are encouraged to express their inner creativity and thought, and as a result redefine what is considered ‘on-trend’ and ‘off-trend.’
If you’ve glanced at a magazine or turned on the TV in the last decade, you’ve got a good idea of what it takes for an individual to qualify as graceful and beautiful. The overwhelming pressure to conform is not just felt by women, as typically assumed — but four in five men (80.7%) said that they also felt pressure to conform to the ‘traditional’ aesthetics of beauty and grace (The Guardian, 2014). A growing counter culture of rebellious individuals see a rejection to authority and a desire to question the structures of our society. This Spring Summer 2016 trend is inspired by this rogue behaviour. Vulgar, sexual and far from graceful trend directions aim to provide an alternative to the elegant, peaceful trend set out by trend forecasting agencies operating in a crowded marketplace.
INTR ODUC T I ON Graceful is characterised by elegance and beauty of form — a peaceful story that runs through the gentleness of spring. However Graceful fails to acknowledge the new wave of consumers — who recognise that the industries vision of beauty and grace is distorted.
Therefore, Ragged Rebel repels from mainstream societies pressure to conform to the traditional aesthetics of beauty and grace, and instead is inspired by an uprising of innovators who are redefining the meaning of the words. Graceful seems trapped in the rigid, outdated confinements of our society, whereas Ragged Rebel runs from what is comfortable and rejects what the crowd is doing. This Spring Summer 2016 trend is personified through dark tones and electric accents of colour, and therefore offers an alternative to the pastel colour palette that has been conjured up for the mass market. With gender lines becoming more blurred in our society, Ragged Rebel is a move towards an Agender fashion future. Ragged Rebel breaks the mould and creates grotesque beauty that oozes vulgarity.
TREND DRIVERS —
Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Exhibition: The first and largest retrospective of the late designer’s work to be presented in Europe. Mcqueen’s designs embody a dark, romantic and disturbing style.
Jesse Draxler
Zoe Kravitz for Complex Magazine (2015)
Lily Gatins Street Style
Supreme x UNDERCOVER Spring Summer 2015 Collection: Supreme continues its ascent, teaming up with none other than Jun Takahashi’s UNDERCOVER for a rebellious fashion statement.
Tom Ford Spring Summer 2015
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TREND DRIVERS —
#HeelConcept is a social media phenomenon, which sees fetishistic designs -- whereby people are making heels out of anything they can get their hands on.
Barbara Gongini Spring Summer 2015
Print Design by Michael Chase
Eyal Gever: Israeli Artist uses 3D printing to recreate natural disasters caused by the current climate crisis and rising pollution levels.
Experimental footwear designer Benjamin John Hall took a hammer to his shoes at a live fashion event, where he showcased new methods of dyeing shoes through destruction.
Philipp Plein Autumn Winter 2015-16
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SHEER VULGARITY
SHEER VULGARITY
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Peep hole, sheer and netted materials are used to conceal and expose body parts in a way that society has taught consumers is ‘ungraceful’. Recent cultural phenomenons like, #FreeTheNipple and the increasing vulgarity and hyper sexualisation of the human body, encourages individuals to embrace their form and to use it in a creative, provocative manner to effect social change — This however, is considered ungraceful by many.
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STUD
Inspired by the 1970’s punk movement. Punks began customising their clothing as a sign of rebellion. Shredding and embellishing garments with heavy duty studs. Therefore this punk inspired trend direction provides a non conformist approach to Spring Summer 2016 fashion.
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S TUD //
Unlike the ethereal, pastel minimal accessorised Spring Summer 2016 trend direction, Ragged Rebel’s STUD comes coated in a thick black leather heavily adorned by razor blade sterling studs.
HARNESS
HARNES S //
A hint of fetishism as this Spring Summer 2016 trend endeavours to shock and provide an antithesis for those living outside of the box, who reject the notion of conforming to the graceful Spring Summer 2016 trend predicted by trend agencies operating in a crowded marketplace. Inspired by Fashionisto Exclusive editorial shot by Jowana Lotfi. Harnesses are introduced into everyday staples and aim to jolt the mainstream as they passively adopt a graceful Spring Summer 2016 trend.
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GRUNGE DECONSTRUCTION
// Garments are deconstructed, as mismatch materials are sewn together and cottons are completely distorted. Inspired by Christopher Kane’s 2014 Resort collection. Garments and materials are reconfigured to be given new meaning. This grunge approach to material manipulation is the complete antithesis of Graceful’s “Refined Destruction” — which sees fine floating stitches and fraying cottons in a soft pastel colour palette.
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DE C O NSTRUCTION
GRUNGE
SLOGAN MANIA
Inspired by the 1970’s Punk movement. Punks began customising their clothing as a sign of rebellion. Large provocative slogans were placed on garments as a statement that they would not conform to the ideals of the mass. Similarly, Ragged Rebel encourages consumers to reject what is comfortable and ‘conventional’. Large provocative slogans are sprawled out across clothing to offer an alternative to the typically refined trend style of Graceful. This trend direction aims to utilise the creative powers of fashion to impose social and cultural impact, by slogans set to challenge and question those in power. When placed amongst a crowd of Graceful adopters SLOGAN MANIA exudes rebellion and a sheer rejection to follow the horde of consumers who passively accept what is handed to them.
SLOGAN MANIA //
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BOUND
BOUND // Ragged Rebel is bound by sexual connotations, vulgarity and fetishistic references. BOUND sees the unorthodox use of rope-like garments and bondage inspired harnesses and accessories. BOUND aims to provoke a reaction from the mass market who passively consume what is handed to them, and pass up opportunities to make bold statements, and question societal values by the clothing choices made.
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PAINT DECONSTRUCTION
PAINT DECONSTRUCTION //
Deconstruction takes an artistic form for this trend direction.
Inspired by experimental footwear designer Benjamin John Hall, who showcased new methods of dyeing shoes through destruction live at his 2014 show. Paint splatters provide a worn-down, deconstructed element, which is a complete contrast of Graceful’s “Refined Destruction” — which sees fine floating stitches and fraying cottons in a soft pastel colour palette.
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KINK
KINK / /
Latex inspired clothing provides a provocative characteristic. It’s second skin like quality doesn’t leave much to the imagination. Therefore questioning the lofty concealing chiffon trend, already set for consumers for the Spring Summer 2016 season. Dark colourways and electric accented blood red ooze a rebellious vulgarity.
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FOOT FETISH
FOOT FETISH
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Inspired by the notion of foot fetish, footwear items receive a unconventional spring summer updates. Bound by ties, feet are held in position and placed upon abstract objects which take the the form of a heel — Much like the #HeelConcept; which was a social media phenomenon. The #HeelConcept was a fetishistic design inspired social media trend that encouraged people to create heels out of anything they could get their hands on, often resulting in unsettling grotesque — far from graceful imagery. FOOT FETISH provides an alternative, which breaks the mould by creating provocative, unsettling beauty that oozes vulgarity. This trend direction aims to jolt the mainstream as they passively adopt a graceful Spring Summer 2016 trend.
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AGENDER
Fashion is moving towards an Agender future, consumers have been crossing the gender divide for some time in search of styles that suit their needs rather than artificially constructed gender identities. Inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s Autumn Winter 2015-16 collection. Several catwalk shows have dressed men in women’s clothes, but none with greater commitment than Vivienne Westwood’s Unisex Gold Label The notion of an Agender future is unprecedented and therefore challenges ‘traditional’ cultural and social preconceptions. Therefore Ragged Rebel aims to encourage this counter cultural movement, in order to challenge the regimented expectations thrust upon brands and consumers by monopolising trend agencies.
AGENDER //
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SPORTS GRUNGE
SPORTS GRUNGE //
Ragged Rebels typically grunge approach to style is given a sports inspired update in SPORTS GRUNGE. Combining two disparate sub-cultures, this trend direction challenges the rigid social and cultural strata by encouraging individuals to question the status quo — using fashion to do so.
Heavy duty leather materials lead the way into this unconventional accessory driven trend direction. Harnesses, braces and headgear define the grunge activewear of Ragged Rebel.
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LIFE & DEATH
LIFE & DEATH //
The juxtaposition between life and death is influenced by both accessories and prints in this particular trend direction. Unconventional skeletal structures are placed on the wearers body to resemble the contrast between life and death. Alternatively, skull prints are sprawled across darkened clothing. Inspired by prints from KTZ’s Autumn Winter 2015-16 menswear collection. The sinister themes encountered in this trend direction offer an alternative to the serene, graceful trend directions of mainstream fashion for Spring Summer 2016.
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BUCKLE UP
Heavy buckled embellishments, when placed adjacent to Graceful’s cluster of pastel colours and paisley prints, highlights the rejection to conform to the rigid confinements and expectations of society. BUCKLE-UP instead exudes an intensely masculine approach to styling.
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BUC KLE UP //
Oversized buckles create a grunge detailing and provide an alternative to the graceful Spring Summer 2016 trend dictated by trend forecasting agencies, operating in a crowded marketplace.
PANTONES — Predominantly comprising of dark tones, however colour is injected into this trend via electric accents of acid yellow and orange. Metallic steal is also found in the heavy embellished studded clothing of this Spring Summer 2016 trend.
ONYX
BLOOD GREY
STEAL
TOXIC GREEN
MUTED TEAL
ACIDIC ORANGE
INK
INDIGO
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MATERIALS — Materials are extremely tactile. Sheer, netted and deconstructed material provides a rebellious finish to garments as well as provocative connotations as materials conceal and reveal parts of the wearers body. Unconventional materials like latex exude an inner confidence and defiance to the Spring Summer 2016 trends already set out for consumers.
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TREND TAKEAWAYS —
• Predominantly comprising of dark tones, however colour is injected into this trend via electric accents of acid yellow and orange. Metallic steal is also found in the heavy embellished studded clothing of this Spring Summer 2016 trend. • Peep hole, sheer, netted and deconstructed materials are used to conceal and expose body parts in a manner that exudes vulgarity. • A hint of fetishism as this Spring Summer 2016 trend endeavours to jolt those that passively follow the mass market. Harnesses and bondage inspired clothing and accessories, present in a number of specific trend directions. • Ragged Rebel also sees large provocative slogans sprawled out across clothing in order to utilise the creative powers of fashion to effect social and cultural impact. • Latex inspired clothing provides a provocative characteristic. It’s second skin like quality doesn’t leave much to the imagination. Therefore questioning the lofty concealing chiffon trend, already set for consumers for the Spring Summer 2016 season.
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REFERENCES —
Fashionisto Exclusive editorial shot by Jowana Lotfi.
Kris Van Assche Spring Summer 2011
Tigran Avetisyan: Collection (2013)
Graduation
Gigi Hadid Calendar
2015
for
the
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Pirelli
Anais Pouliot for Exhibition Magazine, shot by Daniel Jackson Shoots
Moschino Autumn Winter 2014-15
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Off. Off, the online fashion forecasting agency that sees the fashion industry through a different lens. Challenging the views of some of the most powerful trend agencies operating in a crowded marketplace — offering an alternative to the early adopters and opinion formers. ‘Off’ encourage people to run from what is comfortable and reject what the crowd is doing by questioning the views and trends of those in power. ‘Off’ is an online trend forecasting agency for innovation, consumer, and cultural research. -
www.off-fashionforecasting.co.uk off-fashionforecasting@hotmail.com -
Editor & Chief Jessica Greene