The Italian Philosophy Of Wool A journey into Italy’s wool heritage JESSICA LOLETTI
UN POPOLO DI POETI DI ARTISTI DI EROI DI SANTI DI PENSATORI DI SCIENZIATI DI NAVIGATORI DI TRASMIGRATORI
Prologue “The Italian Philosophy of Wool”, brings together some of the most high-end Italian designers, Brunello Cucinelli and Ermenegildo Zegna, in celebrating the manufacturing of wool.
Exclusively highlighting their heritage, origins and philosophy, “The Italian Philosophy of Wool”, gives an insight depth to the remarkable cashmere apparel that Brunello Cucinelli exceptionally crafts. As well as the finest made to measure suits that Ermenegildo Zegna so gracefully fulfills.
Celebrating the unique Italian style, with its unmistakable elegance, exceptional tailoring, Made-in-Italy quality and unremarkable creativity and innovation, Brunello Cucinelli and Ermenegildo Zegna, are two of the most noteworthy Italian designers that bring revolution and innovation to Italy’s renowned reputation of wool making.
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Interviews & Articles & Reviews
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Brunello Cucinelli & Ermenegildo Zegna
Legendary Italian Luxury Known as the “King of Cashmere”
entrepreneur are just a few definition
Brunello Cucinelli started his cash- associated to Brunello Cucinelli. mere apparel in 1978 in the medieval Italian village of Solomeo and soon
The remarkable cashmere house is
distinguished himself as the first Ital- led by a group of workers who live ian designer to introduce colours into
and breathe the house’s humanistic
cashmere. Natural tones like beige, philosophy.
Boosting
individuality,
grey and ivory are the essence of the fostering talent, and placing people luxurious cashmere house so famous
at the heart of the company’s values,
today.
Cucinelli has pioneered ethical pro-
Cucinelli is one of the most singular duction. Cucinelli’s commitment to representatives of the made-in-Italy crafting exceptional clothing is connot only in the fashion industry but veyed in magnificent handmade piecculture too. Poet, modern master of es featuring intuitive tailoring and a the soul, philosopher in search of the Supreme Good and neo-capitalistic
fine finishing touch.
The Philosophy “Making work more human, with
useful work for an important objec-
people at its core”: is the key ethic
tive. I felt that profit for profit’s sake
for Brunello Cucinelli’s colour cash- was not enough, and that there had mere collections. Cucinelli’s corpo- to be a higher, collective purpose. I rate philosophy is commonly referred understood that alongside economic as “ethical capitalism” and a “human well-being there has to be personenterprise”.
al well-being, and that the former
“Giving business a meaning that means nothing without the latter”. goes beyond profit and reinvesting to improve the lives workers, to enhance The concept of human enterprise is and restore the beauty of the world”. also one of the key ethics in the ItalThis sentence beautifully reassumes ian company.
As his first concerns
the philosophy that is the base of the are human needs and well-being, he Italian cashmere knitwear house. The believes that the “brand’s total qualkey success for Cucinelli manufactur- ity is the result of the inner quality of ing enterprise is in fact the philosophy
every employee”. This concept has
that lies behind the brand. A life and led Cucinelli to assure his employees work style that has enabled to make
better conditions and provide them
Brunello Cucinelli known as an ethical with a suitable workplace. Brunello neo-capitalism where through work
Cucinelli’s philosophy is the core es-
one can reach the Supreme Good.
sence of its manufacturing creations that allows him to stand out in today’s
“I have always dreamed of creativity
fashion.
“
A Cashmere knit is like a book. It is something to save and go back to time after time. It is the feeling of embrace. Brunelo Cucinelli
“
“
A day will come when philosophers will be needed to rule the world Brunello Cuicnelli
“
The Origins Brunello Cucinelli’s cares a great deal resents the centre of culture, philosoabout his origins and his beloved Um- phy, literature, arts and of course Italbrian land that he still carries with him
ian fashion.
today. “I love the mysticism of Umbria, a
With the constant perseverance in
mysticism that also belonged to Saint distinguish himself, Cucinelli made Francis of Assisi, who loved beauty
sure that his business would become
and simplicity. I am proud of being
the very best, which is why he chose
from this region, proud of my passion
to specialize in a unique product like
for philosophy and restoration and for
cashmere, a highly specialized fab-
everything that helps restore beauty ric, that allowed him to create such a and dignity to the things buried un- successful cashmere empire. His philder the dust of time”
osophical views indeed enabled him
As Cucinelli repeatedly publicise, it’s
the exponential growth of his Italian
the history and charm of the Umbri- maison as well as different awards for an land that made him so fervent in
his career in the fashion industry. It’s
restoring the medieval hamlet of
his passion and love for his country
Solomeo, now Cucinelli’s Headquar- that Brunello Cucinelli is associated ters. Particularly, the Solomeo land is as the King of cashmere. incredibly dear to Cucinelli as it rep-
BC
C
Ermenegil A Tradition Of Wool, Fabr
Ita
ldo Zegna ics And Suits Since 1910.
aly
Legendary Italian Luxury The historic fashion house, Ermeneg- Su Misura, a important step for the ildo Zegna has become, throughout
family business with the solely vi-
its years of activity, a luxurious mens- sion “to make the most beautiful wear tailor brand. Founded in 1910, fabrics in the world”. This successful in the Italian Alps, bears the name service, bears in mind three key facof its founder, Ermenegildo Zegna
tors: quality, precision and efficiency,
a tailor and entrepreneur. Famously which make up together a traditional well known for the very high quality take on craft with a contemporary viand remarkable Italian style as well as
sion of style. By having all the finish-
manufacturing tradition has become
ing touches done by hand, stitch by
one of the oldest family-run enterpris- stitch, its what makes Ermenegildo es in Italy. To obtain the best quality
Zegna’s manufacturing philosophy so
wool, strong relationships have grown
uniquely successful.
during the years with precious wool
Being the only menswear company
merchants from all over the world.
fully vertically integrated, strongly reinforces Ermengildo Zegna repu-
In 1972, Ermenegildo Zegna intro- tation of being one of Italy’s greatest duced its Made To Measure service, fashion maison.
“
A world tailored especially for you
“
The Philosophy Family ownership is one of the key
ity natural fibers; to innovate in prod-
factors that make Ermengildo Zegna uct and production processes; and one of the successful and recognized to promote the brand and invest in Italian high fashion-houses. Over
the environment of his suppliers and
the last century the business gene
workers.
and entrepreneurial spirit has been passed down through generations in The Zegna Group has a constant deconsolidating Ermengildo Zegna’s vi- sire to improve and look to the future, sion and ensuring that the name Zeg- which today offers ranges from clothna remains relevant in today’s fashion.
ing to accessories. The group’s two
When Ermenegildo’s sons, Aldo and
main brands are the Ermenegildo
Angelo, took control in 1966, their Zegna range and the Z Zegna range, aim was to go on with the philosophy
which is aimed at a younger market.
and style set by their predecessor and
Multiple fabric treatments including
not forgetting its family tradition.
Trofeo, High Performance and Ele-
That said, Zegna’s vision is to give ments have been developed and patcontinuity to the values, philosophy ented throughout the growth of the and work of Ermenegildo Zegna. In other words: to source the best-qual-
brand.
“
You can create the best product in the world but without a brand where do you go? Nowhere. Ermenegildo Zegna
“
The Fabrics The Ermenegildo Zegna heritage is in feo fabric and in one of the most top the fabric and the tailoring process,
quality suits.
Zegna’s dream was in fact to create “the most beautiful fabrics in the One of Ermenegildo Zegna’s chalworld”. Zegna’ suits are indeed made
lenges was to create a luxury fabric
of wool, one of the most sophisticat- that could be suitable for travelling, ed fabrics in the world. Its ability to
a woolen fabric that was resilient but
absorb moisture, store up 30% of its
also lightweight, that was machine
weight without becoming damp, easy
washable as well as being soft to the
adaption to its surroundings are just touch. A fabric that was wrinkle resisa few reasons why Zegna’s suits are tant and able to held its shape. Born made of wool. Zegna’s uniqueness in 1985, this fabric is called High Perconsist in owning 100% of its supply
formance. Their constant thrive in in-
chain, which goes back to the Austra- novating themselves is what makes lian grasslands where they produce
Ermenegildo Zegna so incredibly-
the best quality wool. Some of their
unique.
finest fleece then turns into the Tro-
The Wool Mill The Zegna Wool Mill, known as Lanifi- from raw material selection to finishcio Zegna, founded in 1910, has been
ing.
the backbone of the company’s success and is recognized internationally
Today, Zegna fabrics are still one of
for the world’s luxurious fabrics.
Italy’s most acclaimed exports, from
Four generations of the Zegna fam- owning a farm in Australia to mills ily have led the success in textiles, in Italy; these are successfully sold through revolution, carefully balanc- across the globe. The aim of keeping science with nature and crafts- ing the company’s reputation high, as manship with technology.
one of the biggest representatives of the high-made-in Italy quality has no
Is Ermenegildo Zegna that carries out
doubly been accomplished with suc-
the complete manufacturing process cess.
EZ
Z
Epilogue The journey of “The Italian Philosophy of Wool” reveals stimulating information on each designer and their philosophy of crafting each collection from start to finish.
Celebrating two of the most noteworthy Italian designers and their abilities of fulfilling the finest wool apparel, “The Italian Philosophy of Wool”, takes us to an exceptional journey underlining its heritage, origins and philosophy.
LA VITA E’ TROPPO BREVE PER NON ESSERE ITALIANI