The Tea

THE

TEA

On the clash between younger and older generations of tea, and the position of tea in the world today.

ISSUE XX DECEMBER.20XX

TEA Jessica Luu

CONTENTS

RISE

The Introduction of Tea to Japan ........................ 6

CHANOYU

The Ceremony .................................................... 8 The Tea ............................................................. 12

RENEWAL

The Change in Times ........................................ 14

REBIRTH

The Succession ................................................. 20

SIGHTS

The Western Fascination .................................. 24 The College Experience ................................... 28

SHOPS

The Future of Tea in the West .......................... 30

SOURCES .................................................. 34 4

The Tea

Contents

5

RISE

The Introduction of Tea to Japan

6

The Tea

12TH CENTURY JAPAN. Japan was under civil unrest as warring clans clashed in the capital of Kyoto. Against a backdrop of typhoons, fires, and tornadoes, the Taira and Minamoto struggled for control of the capital. One-third of the city, including the Imperial Palace, was brought to the ground.

Enter Buddhist monk Myōan Eisai. He returned to Japan from China in 1191 and brought the devastated society back to its feet. Armed with the ideology of Zen Buddhism and tea as his medicine, Eisai believed that he found a way to save the health of Japan. To spread this new sect of Buddhism in Japan, Eisai started the Hōon Temple, located on the island of Kyushu1.

The first seeds of the plant Camellia sinensis were scattered at the Senkō-ji Temple and Tendaijiin, both of which still have tea gardens. Tea continued to spread within Japan, endorsed by Eisai’s acquaintances.

Even the third shōgun of the Kamakura shōgunate, Shōgun Sanetomo, who felt ill after too much wine, was supportive of the medicinal beverage. The historical record Azuma Kagami “Mirror of the East” details how the shogun was “greatly pleased” after receiving tea and a “scroll of writings about the virtues of tea” from the monk.

The shōgun was sobered up following the consumption of the tea.

Following the popularization of Zen Buddhism among samurai, the first rituals involving tea were conducted in monasteries.

The strict set of rules for consumption of tea sought to invoke discipline, appreciation, and eventual enlightenment.

Beginning in the 14th century, the consumption of tea would be elevated to the status of extravagance. The basara culture of the upper class promoted flamboyance and vulgarity, especially through large displays of wealth through tea. Large tea identification contests, tōcha, would serve 100 varieties of tea, with emphasis on gambling, exotic food, and expensive imports2.

The most important figure in Japanese tea would not come until the 16th century. Sen no Rikyū, a fishmonger from the port city of Sakai, would instill several aesthetic and ideological values into the meaning of tea. Taught by the tea master Takeno Jōō, Rikyū would continue his master’s ideas of wabi, a simple, rustic, frugal manner of tea. Rikyū’s way of tea, chado, would establish seasonal variations, the behavior of the host and guests, the value of tea utensils, and finally the four tenets of tea: harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility. □

Rise

7

CHANOYU The Ceremony

8

The Tea

Chanoyu

9

THE TEA ROOM. A tea gathering, chakai, takes place in a chashitsu, a small room that is typically 8.2 square meters or 4.5 tatami mats. Prior to entering the room, guests will first cleanse their hands in a water basin (tsukubai), and then enter through the nijiriguchi, a low doorway.

The host (teishu) and the guests (kyaku) exchange conversation.

Depending on the school of tea, the specific ceremonial practices will differ. The guests are first presented with small tea sweets, wagashi, to offset the bitterness of the tea.

Kneeling, the teishu performs a ceremonial cleansing of the tea container (natsume) and tea scoop (chashaku) with the fukusa, a carefully folded silk cloth. The chakin, made of hemp or linen, may be used to clean the tea bowl, chawan. This cleansing is carried out meticulously and aesthetically, with no wasted movement or words.

With graceful, rehearsed motions, the teishu uses the chashaku to scoop matcha out of the natsume, and into the chawan.

10

The Tea

The hishaku is then used to bring hot water from the water kettle (kama) to the chawan. To finish making the matcha, the chasen (a bamboo whisk) is used to combine the powder-water mixture.

The chasen is then set aside. The teishu holds up the chawan in their left hand and rotates it twice with their right hand before handing it to the first guest (shoyaku). The shoyaku repeats the same motion, takes a drink from the chawan, then wipes off the rim before offering it to the second guest (jiyaku). This procedure is repeated until the last guest, who then passes it back to the teishu.

After tea has been served to all guests, the teishu rinses and cleans the chawan, the chashaku, and the chasen. The guests will carefully inspect and admire the tea utensils, as a sign of respect for the teishu.

There may be exchange about the origins and importance of the utensils. After the admiration, the teishu will gather the utensils and exchange bows with the guests as they exit the tearoom. â–Ą

TOP. Tea Ceremony — Jorei shiki no uchi, is a print by Adachi Ginkō, produced in 1890. Ginkō was well-known for his prints in the ukiyo-e style.

LEFT. A set of tea utensils.

From left to right: hishaku, chasen, chashaku, matcha powder, and chawan.

Image: Getty Images.

RIGHT. Washagi tea sweets are served before matcha is made. Tea sweets are chosen depending on seasonal conditions and the guests. There are many types of washagi, which are made with mochi, azuki bean paste, or fruit. Image: Kyo Tours Japan.

Chanoyu

11

CHANOYU The Tea

“Tea” in Japanese, ocha or cha, can refer to a variety of tea types. Green tea, ryokucha, is the most common variety of tea in Japan, and there are a variety of subcategories within green tea. When referring to tea in the context of chanoyu, the type of tea used most frequently is matcha. Matcha is powdered green tea leaves, dissolved in water to make tea. Image: Rishi Tea.

There are two manners of preparation of matcha: usucha (thin tea) and koicha (thick tea). Usucha is the typical way to prepare matcha, and requires about one teaspoon of matcha to 2.4 ounces of water. For usucha, the tea must be whisked quickly using the wrist, using a “W” motion to create foam.

Compared to usucha, koicha has a higher matcha-to-water ratio, calling for double the amount of matcha to half the amount of water. Koicha is the consistency of honey, is more textured, and has greater flavors of umami. Koicha must be whisked slowly and kneaded, either back and forth or in a circular motion, without creating foam3.

Image: Green Box. 12

The Tea

The type of tea leaves that are ground for matcha are called gyokuro. Gyokuro is grown in the shade for about three to four weeks, as opposed to other types of tea which require less shade or grow in the sunlight. Steeping gyokuro will yield a light green tea, though gyokuro requires different steeping conditions. It is classified under the broader category of sencha, as a result of similar production methods.

Gyokuro is the highest grade of sencha.

Image: Teashop.

Outside of chanoyu, tea typically refers to steeped green tea, sencha. Sencha is the most common form of tea, accounting for 75% of harvested Japanese teas. During production, sencha leaves are steamed, rolled, shaped, and dried. Different types of sencha are categorized by the growth, harvest, and steaming times, among other factors. Sencha has less umami flavor than gyokuro and is grown unshaded. Image: Rishi Tea.

Another subcategory of sencha is kabusecha, which is in between gyokuro and sencha in terms of umami. Kabusecha is shaded for about one to two weeks, and can be considered a low-grade gyokuro if the umami flavor is strong enough4.

Image: Imperial Tea Court. â–Ą

Chanoyu

13

RENEWAL The Change in Times

19TH CENTURY JAPAN. Seeing an influx of foreigners during the late 1800s, Japanese officials decided to take measures to accommodate them. To evoke a sense of harmony and hospitality to visitors with the tea ceremony, an adjustment was made to the tradition.

Chanoyu is traditionally performed with both guests and hosts in the seiza position, kneeling on the floor and sitting on your knees. For Japanese people, this was not an issue, as they were accustomed to eating meals while sitting on the tatami floors. To appeal to Westerners who sat on chairs at tables to eat, a new style of chanoyu was developed.

In 1872, the ryūrei style was developed

by Gengensai Seichū, the 11th head of the Urasenke school (a school of chanoyu).

The style was displayed at the World Expo hosted at Kyoto. Ryūrei shiki, or “standing style,” calls for the use of a chair and table.

14

The Tea

The tenchaban (table) is used in a formal setting and upholds the values of chanoyu5.

Other than the chairs and table, the tea ceremony is performed in the same manner as one in the seiza position6.

There may be additional benefits to performing chanoyu while sitting instead of in seiza. Sitting on one’s knees is generally not harmful, but with increased frequency and length of time, it may pose a health risk. Such problems include adding stress to both knees and ankles, decreasing blood circulation, and exacerbating existing joint problems. For older people with pre-existing conditions, it may be beneficial to sit on a chair or in other positions, such as with legs crossed, rather than on knees. □

LEFT. Canadian tea master and Urasenke teacher Randy Channell Soei folds his fukusa in preparation for a ryĹŤrei shiki style ceremony. Image: Tabido.

BOTTOM. A woodblock print from artist Toshikata Mizuno featuring women situated in the seiza position during a tea ceremony.

This print is thirteenth of a fifteen-image series that documents the full course of chanoyu.

Renewal

15

21ST CENTURY JAPAN. While the traditional tea ceremony has persisted to the present day, there has been increasing experimentation and shift in interests. This shift serves as a renewal of chanoyu, as current values intermingle with the principles of the past. In general, traditional values are noted and actively promoted in new adaptations of the tea ceremony. Since chanoyu serves as an outlet of expression for both the host and guests, it is not surprising that many have taken creative liberties in serving matcha.

A recent take on the tea ceremony emerged in 2010, after office worker Hankyu Tanida attended a tea ceremony in Kyoto. Initially seeing the tea ceremony as a “boring event in which fancy ladies drank tea,” Tanida had become fascinated by the values of the

16

The Tea

tea ceremony after connecting the stress of office workers to the way samurai “relieve stress and regain mental strength” through tea. Drawing similarities between the size of the tearoom and her office kitchenette (both were two tatami mat-sized rooms, or about 33 square feet), Tanida considered the possibility of making matcha during lunch break.

The idea of Kyūtō-Ryū, kitchenette-style tea ceremony, initially spread to just two of Tanida’s co-workers. Through friends and intertest, Kyūtō-Ryū became popular in other kitchenettes, inspiring 2,400 participants to hold 120 tea ceremonies.

These tea gatherings are remarkably like their traditional counterpart, with one of their deviations being the usage of unconventional utensils. In traditional chanoyu, the tea bowl and other utensils are highly valuable with a rich history, often dating back centuries, and masterfully constructed by potters and craftsmen. In the case of Kyūtō-Ryū, guests use their own old coffee cups, each with their own stories to tell.

Tanida believes that the aesthetic of such “cracked and stained coffee cup[s]” fit the teachings of wabi by Sen no Rikyū7.

Continuing with the office-worker demographic, there has been adaptation of the tea ceremony for use outside of the workplace. A blog post about Japanese-language reporter Natsuki details her endeavors with a one-person tea ceremony. This take on the tea ceremony is like Kyūtō-Ryū, as Natsuki utilized non-traditional substitutions of tea utensils to fit her needs. These substitutions included a measuring spoon for the chashaku, a metal whisk for the chasen, and a towel for the chakin8.

It is difficult to say if such means are too radical, when considering the procedure and purpose of chanoyu. The overall sentiment of chanoyu of relaxation and tranquility are present. For Natsuki, her adaptation of the ceremony serves to escape from her everyday life and the drudgery of office and housework. Such a ceremony might not be considered chanoyu by experienced practitioners, due to the extremity of changes and lack of adherence to most of the ceremony.

However, changes in the ceremony will allow for greater accessibility, as normal people will be able to participate in a variation of the ceremony. The reaches of tea will need to extend to a demographic outside of its traditional appeal, and for that to happen, it may be necessary for some compromise. The tradition of tea has become increasingly challenged by the modernity of people attracted to it, and we see this occur with the advent of technology.

LEFT. Two office workers hold a kyūtō-ryū tea ceremony in their office kitchenette.

Image: Hiroyuki Fukura.

RIGHT. Natsuki’s set-up for her own tea ceremony, complete with non-traditional tea sweets. Image: SoraNews24.

The Tea

17

As technology makes its advance to domination over our future, we start to see its infiltration into the past. At the intersection of technology and tradition, automation of food preparation is often accepted as normal, beneficial, and sanitary. Such automation is quite prevalent in food preparation, as sushi robots and sushi conveyor belt restaurants remain a popular choice in Japan. Once automation seeps into other parts of the past, it stirs some questions about how far a tradition can be taken.

This take on the tea ceremony is not at all traditional, and may not be considered by tea masters to be a ceremony.

Sado Robo 151A is a robot developed by aNo Lab, and it is capable of whisking tea and presenting the guest with wagashi tea sweets. According to the three-person

team, the robot was created as an “opportunity to think about the essence of the Japanese mind and change the way of looking at traditional Japanese culture... ”.

Sado Robo embodies the values of “teaching,” “hospitality,” and “preparation”9.

As a result of its “prehistoric mechanism,” the Sado Robo is only able to perform “simple and linear movements.” These brisk, choppy movements stand in stark contrast to the graceful motions of a tea master. The main benefit of automation may be the lack of rehearsal and perfect, predictable actions, though even these factors cannot replace the natural feeling of a “real” tea ceremony. One source even called the robot “violent,” due to these movements and its mechanical whirring, conflicted because of its separation from traditional wabi-sabi elements.

LEFT. After Sado Robo finishes preparing a bowl of matcha, a compartment to the left opens up to present the guest with tea sweets.

TOP RIGHT. An infographic featured on aNo Lab’s website details how to communicate with Sado Robo via smartphone application.

BOTTOM RIGHT. A bowl of matcha prepared by the robot.

18

The Tea

Images: aNo Lab.

Others took the project lightly, even laughing at the serious development. The robot became a source of amusement on the internet, with one commenter noting that they “know [it’s] not satire, but it ought to be” 10. Some familiar with the ceremony were not impressed by the robot, and “argued that the tea ceremony is not like this”.

The goal of the project was to expose people to a tradition through untraditional means, and with the reactions it garnered, it is possible that the goal was satisfied.

Sado Robo was retired after its presentation at multiple gatherings in 2017 and 2018, and it does not appear that the automated tea master will make its return.

While some were amused or shocked by the robot, others were made aware of a tradition not previously known to them.

The robot is a precursor to future develop-

ments of the tea ceremony, as the ceremony makes its mark on more demographics in Japan and abroad. □

Renewal

19

REBIRTH The Succession

PRESENT DAY JAPAN. Within Japan, there has been great difficulty mediating between the older and younger generations. Younger people have been engrossed with the culture of the present day, with little regard for some traditions. The decline of tradition has not been intentional, yet it has a significant impact on how each demographic views the other.

There is the physical decline of traditional craftsmen, shokunin, people who devote their lives to perfecting their craft and passing it on. As shokunin grow older, they must find an interested successor to teach,

20

The Tea

else they risk ending their career without a way to continue. Much of the younger generation seek alternative career paths, which are defined in today’s terms of success.

Automation has resulted in some crafts becoming obscure and unprofitable. Fields such as sword making, kimono crafting, and tea ceremonies are in decline simply because of lack of successors, though perhaps not because of lack of interest11.

Recently, there has been a number of younger people expressing interest in reviving tea ceremonies in Japan. As discussed in the previous article, adapting chanoyu to present-day values is simple and allows for greater accessibility.

While these methods may not preserve the tea ceremony in its totality, they spark interest in a different demographic which has given a rebirth to the tea ceremony.

LEFT. Those in attendance at the Ochamori ceremony can experience drinking matcha from oversized tea bowls.

Image: Mainichi / Maiko Umeda BOTTOM. During the Kids Cultural Experience, children can decorate sensu fans and sheets of paper to be used to display wagashi.

Image: Hitomi Kishi.

The engagement of children is vital for the traditional tea ceremony, both in terms of interest and as apprentices of shokunin.

One particular instance of children becoming involved in chanoyu is at a retreat in Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture, called Modern Ryokan Kishi-ke. The retreat is run by a young couple, Nobuyuki and Hitomi Kishi, and offers a variety of traditional experiences, including shōjin ryōri lunch, ikebana (flower arranging), and tea ceremony.

The Kids Cultural Experience is a chance for children older than six to serve tea to their parents in a ceremony. Chanoyu is headed by Kimihisa Meguro, a tea master and director of a children’s culture school in Tokyo. Meguro teaches the children about the ceremony with illustrated cards of tea utensils, and guides them through the tea procedure. The experience culminates in a bowl of tea presented to their guests12.

Another opportunity for children to experience a tea ceremony is during the Ochamori ceremony in Saidaiji Temple in Nara.

The Ochamori ceremony began about 750 years ago, and is a celebration of New Year’s. The ceremony uses oversized tea bowls and whisks, with bowls being about a foot in diameter and weighing 11 pounds.

One participant, Ami Kotohara, came with her husband and 3-month-old daughter, and said that she wanted to “come again next year to see how my child has grown in comparison to the huge tea bowls” 13.

Such experiences, one tailored specifically to children, and the other inviting all, are crucial in the rebirth of chanoyu. While not all children exposed to tradition may take interest or choose to follow, having these opportunities will only aid in the transition of the older to younger generation.

Rebirth

21

The decline of chanoyu is accompanied by the overall decline of high-quality tea, as consumers seek alternatives in their fast-paced lives. The teaching of young children about the tea ceremony sparks hope for the future of tea, though continuing with the idea of demographics, these children must be raised by those with an interest in tea as well.

While not directly reviving the traditional tea ceremony, the attempt of two tea-lovers to save the tea industry does provide a boost to tradition. In order to continue chanoyu, the tea market must be stable or growing, but there has been an increase in abandoned tea farms.

Akito Ohashi co-founded The Tea Bridge, a company providing tours to local green tea factory and farms. Their goal is to educate others about the quality of tea leaves, especially those who drink bottled tea. One of the solutions Ohashi proposed is “to expand 'Japanese teahouses' that are modern, where people can drink tea in a relaxed setting" 14.

While such a solution may not be favored by traditional tea drinkers, it may be the solution that can bring in a new generation of tea drinkers. Tactics to modernize tea have already been taken, from the office-style tea ceremony, to using machinery to serve tea. Both of these serve a smaller community. Ohashi’s proposition differs because it seeks to provide high-quality tea 22

The Tea

and service to a general population. The rising popularity of such “third-wave tea cafes” may attract anyone wanting to explore the depths of tea, especially younger folks.

We will see this phenomenon occurring within other markets abroad.

New tea cafes are easily accessible, though price may be a deterrent for those who are unaware of the difficulties in processing quality tea. The Tea Bridge’s educational tours and internet media will help consumers choose the right tea for them. Perhaps by giving all the resources needed for many to return or to start drinking tea, we will see the rebirth of the traditional chanoyu, occuring only through untraditional means. □

TOP. An aerial view of the tea fields in Shizuoka, where The Tea Bridge provides tours, Shizuoka produces 40 percent of Japan’s tea. Image: The Tea Bridge.

LEFT. Asami Ishizuka, a health consultant, bends over tea plants in a revived 200-square-meter tea plot.

Aside from her work on abandoned tea plots, Ishizuka teaches others about Japanese tea on her website, Holistic Tea Life.

RIGHT. Akito Ohashi holds up a small cup of tea to the light. He often makes and presents tea to tourists using similar cups.

Images: Kyodo News.

Rebirth

23

SIGHTS

The Western Fascination

ABROAD. In contrast to the decline of chanoyu within Japan, chanoyu has become quite popular around the world, as some foreigners seek to educate themselves about Japanese culture. This has occurred through Japanese cultural events, such as fairs and museum programs, where tea practitioners are invited to serve tea. These events are held for the public’s enjoyment, with the audience composed of tea enthusiasts and those unaware of Japanese tea.

For the unaware, such an event serves to promote the ceremony and may inspire some to ponder the deeper meaning of tradition and how we perceive it.

In Feb. 2019, an event held at a Paris museum celebrated the 160th anniversary of friendship between Japan and France, as part of their ”Japonismes 2018”. The museum hosted a tea ceremony and talk about the history of tea, garnering the interests of over 500 attendees. For Reijiro Izumi, a deputy curator of a tea ceremony museum and the speaker, he was interested in “introduc[ing] the tea ceremony in various ways so that people will not have a fixed image of what it is” 15.

LEFT. Parisians learn about the history of Japanese tea through a talk and tasting of matcha. Image: Kyodo News.

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The Tea

RIGHT. Prince William and Governor Yoichi Masuzoe hold bowls of usucha during a diplomatic tea ceremony. Image: artnet News.

The restoration of tea culture in other parts of Europe provides additional opportunity for locals and tourists to explore Japanese culture in an unexpected location. In Scotland, the Cowden Japanese garden, which is “said to be one of the finest in Western Europe” will be receiving a garden restoration as well as construction of a new tea house. This is following the vandalism of the garden in the 1960s, and will involve the collaboration of several Japanese, British, and Scottish architects and restorationists. The tea house will be a site for events and education at the intersection of two vastly different cultures16.

The travels of people in popular media have been documented as a matter of respect and appreciation for the visited country. For Prince William, his trip to Japan in 2015 included a tea ceremony in Tokyo with the Governor Yoichi Masuzoe.

Usucha, thin tea, was served by Genshitsu Sen, a master practitioner and a descendent of Sen no Rikyū17. Such an event reveals the continued political usage of the tea ceremony. The ceremony was perhaps seen with a veil of curiosity and unfamiliarity by fans of the royal family.

A recurring theme present in these cases is the exposure of foreigners to the Japanese tea ceremony, often leading to fascination and popularization. While it is exciting that foreigners have taken an interest in learning about a key component in Japanese history, it is necessary to consider the difference in presentation. A ceremony outside of its traditional context may appear to hold the same values to those who have just become cognizant of its existence. At times, the ceremony may be adjusted to accommodate for other views or circumstances, such as ryūrei shiki.

Sights

25

In the case of the French museum, the 500 participants did not experience a traditional ceremony, where a host serves only a few guests. The values and meaning behind the tea ceremony were emphasized by the tea master and speaker but were not instilled in the traditional manner. Such a change will not give the true experience of the tea ceremony. However, it is not necessarily unfavorable that the “traditional” tea ceremony has been altered for foreigners. The ceremony has been changing over time, frequently at the hands of newcomers to the ceremony. Many of these newcomers, such as the creator of kyūtō-ryū, have considered the impact of the ceremony among a different demographic.

The difference between Japanese newcomers and foreigners is quite a harsh line. Foreigners are accused of cultural appropriation when they attempt to alter an item, but it is perfectly acceptable for someone to change something of their own heritage. Often, it is difficult to discern if outsiders come with malicious intent or if they are just overly enthusiastic and creative. Whether part of the former or the latter, both groups are grouped together by traditionalists and purists, who seek to rectify the damage done and prevent any tainting of their culture. Such is the difficult case for those who seek to change something that is not “their own”. □

26

The Tea

HERE. Cowden Japanese Garden was established by Scottish explorer Ella Christie at the beginning of the 20th century. The Garden is the first and only garden of its size designed by a woman. A total of ÂŁ229,500 was granted by the National Lottery Heritage Fund for the reinstatement of the garden, which will be used for cultural exploration through ikebana, origami, calligraphy, and tea ceremonies.

Image: The Scotsman.

Sights

27

SIGHTS

The College Experience

COLLEGE. With recent world events being distressing, stressful, and unsettling, it may be time to settle down and relax with a cup of tea. Unfortunately for college students, such tea would have to be taken individually or with roommates. Tea ceremonies will not be possible at this time, but they have occurred at American colleges at some time in the past. The rationale behind each teaching was similar at these schools, but some utilized different methods to express the history and values behind the tea ceremony. □

LEFT. San Francisco State University’s Professor Midori McKeon teaches modern languages and literatures. She hosts an annual tea ceremony for students in SFSU’s secret tea room. McKeon hosted six tea ceremonies with a total of 44 participants one afternoon in Nov. 2016. Image: Gospel Cruz.

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The Tea

ABOVE. Washington & Lee University’s Chanoyu Tea Society hosts an annual Martin Luther King Jr. Tea, which began in Jan. 2017. Pictured above is their Senshin’an Tea Room. Their goal is to increase exposure to tea culture in the W&L community.

ABOVE AND LEFT. Pennsylvania State University invited tea master Mihori-sensei and her assistant Sumiko-sensei to host a tea gathering in Oct. 2017. Participants included students and guests who were allowed to prepare, serve, and drink matcha.

Images: Patrick Mansell.

ABOVE AND LEFT. A tea ceremony was performed on-stage at Bowdoin College in 2016. A talk and performance were given, followed by matcha and tea sweets delivered to the audience.

LEFT. An exhibit of tea utensils, Chado: The Way of Tea, at Wesleyan University was displayed at College of East Asian Studies Gallery in Sep. 2018.

The exhibit sought to emphasize the importance of tea in both Japanese and Chinese cultures.

Sights

29

SHOPS

The Future of Tea in the West

THE UNITED STATES. A discussion about the overall condition of the green tea market will aid in understanding why tea has become popular abroad. The average consumption of green tea in Japanese households is in decline, though bottled green tea and tea exports have been steadily rising. The largest importer of Japanese green tea is the United States, with 35% of Japan’s total exports in 2016. The main reason for this phenomenon appears to be the claims of health benefits associated with drinking tea, as well as a faddish obsession with the green drink.

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The Tea

According to Dr. Andrew Weil, M.D., an advocate for natural and preventive medicine, green tea is perhaps the “healthiest form of caffeine you can ingest.” He attributes the known and possible health benefits of tea to various epidemiological studies. One study conducted in Japan correlated a lower morality rate with the consumption of five to six cups of tea per day. However, there have been no studies to prove a direct relationship between tea and certain health benefits. Dr. Weil reveals that specific claims about tea, such as weight loss, cancer or heart disease prevention, are usually false or exaggerated18.

There is a correlation between better health and tea consumption, but not to the extent of these claims.

With respect to the COVID-19 pandemic, it is no surprise that there have been studies targeting the effectiveness of tea on the virus.

Dr. Weil cites two studies on EGCG, Epigallocatechin gallate, a main component in green tea, which suggested that the chemical can hinder the entry of the virus into cells. Another recent study conducted by Nara Medical University states that it “appears tea has the capacity of detoxifying COVID-19, thereby making it significantly less infectious... .” This study has yet to be tested on humans, and only examined the detoxification of the virus in a vial of tea for one minute. In this case, the most effective tea was black tea with leaves, which resulted in the reduction of 99% of the virus in one minute, and 99.9% in ten minutes19.

These studies are quite helpful in terms of finding tea’s relationship to health. However, problems may arise when the public takes these findings too seriously or with too much confidence. While correlations and associations are suggested, the lack of certainty in these answers should be taken with caution. For general health benefits, such claims have had great impact on the

movement of the market. Health has been the largest motivation for Americans who would like to make a small modification to their daily routines. Combined with an obsession with matcha and matcha-flavored items, Japanese tea has skyrocketed in popularity among Americans.

LEFT. An infographic detailing the declining consumption of traditional gr een tea in Japan, at the expense of bottled tea and exports to other countries.

Image: AFP. TOP. Dr. Weil (left) and André Fasciola (right) co-founded MatchaKari, an e-commerce Japanese tea company, in 2017. They hoped to ”deliver health-centric, high-quality Japanese matcha green tea.”

Image: MatchaKari.

Shops

31

The growth of the tea industry in the United States is accompanied by the “global matcha craze” which can potentially revive the tea industry in Japan. In the recent era, tea has been viewed by younger people as “unfashionable” and as the “preserve of the older generation,” “mainly over the 60s,” according to Shigehiko Suzuki, a tea shop owner in central Japan. Modernizing the tea rooms help the image of tea, but as evidenced by data, traditional tea has been increasingly replaced by bottled tea20.

Overseas, the popularization of matcha-flavored items has provided a much needed boost to the Japan’s tea industry. Matcha cake, ice cream, chocolate, and snacks are sold at small shops and cafes. Even mass-produced items, such as Oreos cookies and Lay’s chips, have taken on matcha flavoring. Strangely, there is matcha coffee, perhaps for coffee lovers who can’t bear to make the switch. In Japan, demand for matcha has boosted the production of small, struggling farmers, as well as shop owners of traditional tea joints.

American entrepreneurs, seeing opportunity, have capitalized on this craze in the United States. Many of these business owners proclaim their love for and inspiration from green tea and have opened shops in hopes of spreading Japanese culture. In terms of traditional tea houses, some are thriving in an urban environment, such as Stephen Globus’ Washitsu in New York City. The tea house, founded in 2012, 32

The Tea

provides the community with tea ceremonies, tea and ikebana lessons, and Japanese art. Though participants will not fully understand Japanese culture from one visit, the Globus Washitusu is a space that allows for growth and exchange, driving further Western interest in tea culture21.

A small tea shop in Manhattan, Kettl, owned by Zach Managan, sells quality tea directly from Fukuoka. In Sep. 2020, a second location in Brooklyn was opened, revealing the success attained with the first shop. A notable item sold is their matcha chocolate, with their site claiming that it is the “most intense matcha chocolate available.” This certainly feeds into the matcha craze in the states.

TOP. A variety of matcha-flavored snack items from Japan.

Such items became an internet sensation, and are now popular among Westerners. Image: Japanese Monthly Web Magazine.

FAR LEFT. In Feb. 2020, fast food chain Dunkin’ Donuts introduced a matcha latte to their menu, targeting young coffee drinkers.

Image: Dunkin’.

LEFT. Tea shop Kettl’s matcha chocolate boasts 2.5 bowls of matcha per bar, and is frequently sold out on their website. Image: Kettl.

Among other start-up tea shops, experimenting with matcha and trying to fit the consumer’s demands is common. However, as consumers eagerly buy into what is popular at the time, shop owners must consider if it will continue or simply fade out as a fad. If the latter turns out to be true, then there may be greater problems with Japan’s global tea market. It does appear that tea is growing in popularity in the states, though like Japan, much of this tea is bottled or from tea bags rather than via traditional means. Businessmen such as Globus and Managan, both seeking to expand Japanese culture in the heart of the city, will hopefully be enough to perpetuate matcha craze. By promoting tea among Westerners, the tea market in Japan may spike once again. □ Shops 33

SOURCES 1

Mair, Victor Henry, and Erling Hoh. The True History of Tea. Thames & Hudson, 2009.

2 Ōki, Sadako, and Takeshi Watanabe. Tea Culture of Japan. Yale University Art Gallery, 2009.

3 Yunomi. (2018, June 05). The difference between Gyokuro, Kabusecha, Sencha, and Bancha green teas. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://yunomi.life/blogs/japanese-tea-guide/thedifference-between-gyokuro-kabusecha-sencha-and-bancha-green-teas 4 How to Prepare Matcha: Koicha vs. Usucha. (2020, November 25). Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://senbirdtea.com/how-to-prepare-matcha-koicha-vs-usucha/ 5 Tabido. (2018, December 18). TABIDO:Why not enjoy the tea ceremony while in Kyoto?

It’s not only about sitting on your knees in Japanese rooms!! Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://www.tabido.jp/en-us/article/1309/ 6 Barton, D. W. (2016, September 27). How to Conquer Seiza, the Foreigner’s Nightmare.

Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://japanology.org/2016/07/how-to-conquer-seiza-the-foreigners-nightmare/ 7 Komura, Y. (2019, November 3). An ancient way of doing business in Japan (1108587790 838267247 J. Airth, Trans.). Retrieved from https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20191104-an-ancient-way-of-doing-business-in-japan 8 Baseel, C. (2020, May 13). My matcha moment – How to have a one-person tea ceremony all by yourself, with no special tools. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://soranews24. com/2020/05/13/my-matcha-moment-how-to-have-a-one-person-tea-ceremony-all-by-yourselfwith-no-special-tools/ 9

ANo Labs. (n.d.). Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://anoken.jimdofree.com/

10 McGee, O. (2018, March 23). Robot performs traditional Japanese tea ceremony. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://japantoday.com/category/features/food/robot-performs-traditional-japanese-tea-ceremony 11 Lufkin, B. (2020, February 19). The future of Japan’s master artisans. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20200219-the-future-of-japans-master-artisans 12 Demetriou, D. (2020, September 6). A serene kid’s cultural experience in the heart of Kamakura. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2020/09/06/lifestyle/ modern-ryokan-kishi-ke-kamakura/

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The Tea

13 Mainichi. (2020, January 16). 750-yr-old big bowled tea ceremony at Nara temple a giant hit. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20200115/ p2a/00m/0na/027000c 14 Tamura, M. (2018, November 06). Young tea enthusiasts on mission to save industry in Japan. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://english.kyodonews.net/news/2018/11/50ba2bcf4e45-young-tea-enthusiasts-on-mission-to-save-industry-in-japan.html 15 Parisian museum hosts Japanese tea ceremony. (2019, February 25). Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://english.kyodonews.net/news/2019/02/5d37f94a1054-parisian-museum-hosts-japanese-tea-ceremony.html 16 Japanese tea ceremony comes to castle at foot of the Ochils. (2019, November 06). Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://www.thecourier.co.uk/fp/news/scotland/1015543/japanese-teaceremony-comes-to-castle-at-foot-of-the-ochils/ 17 Chu, C. (2015, February 26). Prince William Participates in Japanese Tea Ceremony.

Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://news.artnet.com/art-world/prince-william-participates-in-tokyo-tea-ceremony-270206 18 Mangan, Z. (2020, May 22). The Truth About The Health Benefits Of Green Tea. Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://kettl.co/blogs/kettl-tea-blog/green-tea-health-benefits 19 Shimbun, S. (2020, November 30). Nara Study: Could Drinking More Tea Be the Answer to COVID-19 ? Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://japan-forward.com/nara-study-coulddrinking-more-tea-be-the-answer-to-covid-19/ 20 Beade, A., & Fukue, N. (2019, August 28). Can global matcha craze save Japan’s tea industry? Retrieved December 07, 2020, from https://phys.org/news/2019-08-global-matcha-craze-japan-tea.html 21 New York’s Most Authentic Japanese Tea House Is Hidden in Plain Sight. (2016, March 10).

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IMAGES Cover 3 4 6 7

EyeEm. Santoso, A. Drawing. Luu, J. Wow!Japan. How to Best Enjoy Onomichi, Hiroshima, a Town of History and Culture.

Drawing. Luu, J. Drawing. Luu, J.

Written and compiled by Jessica Luu for Professor Watanabe’s Japanese History Through Food (CEAS210) class. December 2020. Special thanks to Quin Steinmetz for help with proofing.

Sources

35

The history of Japan’s tea ceremony, chanoyu, is not limited by the guidelines set forth in the past. As the world advances through a generational shift, chanoyu retains its core values, while evolving to fit the needs of a different demographic.

Chanoyu has intrigued those outside of the borders of Japan, reviving a declining traditional tea market within Japan.

Such is the promising future of Japanese tea. â–Ą