For the trousers, I used a standard size 10 trouser block which I traced around. I then measured around the bottom of my leg and ankle measuring 25cm, this I then halved to 12.5cm. I then added the front of my trousers 17.1c, and the back 19.6cm with the difference being 12cm. I then divided that by 4, with the outcome being that I had to take 3cm off and so I therefore had to take 1.5cm off each side. This I then squared up to the top to give my trousers a skinny finish and extended the leg by 8cm so it would be slightly rushed. I also used a fly font pattern for the fastening. I then added a 1cm seam allowance and traced off my pattern.
Week One -‐ Trousers
Trousers Pattern
For the bodice of the garment, I used a standard size 10 bodice block which I then traced around. I then squared up the shoulders by 4cm to give them a more structured look once made up. I moved my dart to the neckline and made it a seam as with using leather it would be far too bulky. For the skirt, I first matched the pattern up to the bottom of my bodice so that it would be a full dress rather than being a seam. I then squared down 101cm from the waist for the length. I the worked out I had to take 7cm off each side at the bottom and square the up to the hip line and I wanted my dress to be fitted in the extreme. For this reason I also had to draw in a vent. I then measured 7cm for my straps and down each as 5cm with that measurement in-between. For my sleeve I traced around a a standard size 10 sleeve block and extended it to 70cm and tapered it in by 26cm to the elbow line and 16cm to the wrist. For the over sleeve, I used a circle pattern; a strip 19cm by 9cm as I found after testing on a mannequin that this way it sat better.
Garment 2 For garment 2, I used the basic pattern that I had created for garment 1 however the would only have one set of sleeves instead of two. For the skirt of the garment I wanted to give it a rushed affect and so I cut and opened the skirt 6 times each being 4cm wide. I then extended the neckline by 6cm and shaped it in for the polar neck. I then added a 1cm seam allowance to both patterns and cut them out.
Week Two -‐ Garments
Garment 1
For Jacket 1, I traced around a standard size Large goal keepers shirt for the oversized look. I then squared up the shoulders by 4cm as I wanted them to also by structured and exaggerated. I then had to trace off two front and two backs and lay them side by side and I wanted an asymmetric finish to the bottom. From 13.5cm on one side I then squared across to the original bottom of the other side to give me this affect. I the drew around the standard size large goal keepers sleeve block and using the measurements taken from my the sleeves of my dresses, I tapered them in. I the drew in were my zips would be, for which on one side I would use separate pattern pieces and the other I would use zip inserts. I then drew in where I wanted my lapel to be which I wanted to be oversized for an exaggerated affect.
Jacket 2 For Jacket 2, I traced around the front and back of a standard size large goal keepers shirt again for the oversized look. I then squared up the shoulders by 4cm as again I wanted them to look structured and exaggerated. I the drew around the standard size large goal keepers sleeve block and using the measurements taken from my the sleeves of my dresses, I tapered them in. I drew in where I wanted my lapels to be as well as from this drawing in where my straps would be, which I made 6cm in depth and had a 3cm space between each one. I then added a 1cm seam allowance to both patterns and cut out my pattern pieces.
Week Three -‐ Jackets
Jacket 1
Alexander Wang This zip again has a similar finish to how I intend mine to be, by using the heavy duty zip in a dress as opposed to a coat for which they are intended.
Topshop unique This zip how I want the back to be finished and so the opening is neatened on the inside so as not to leave a raw edge exposed when zipped open.
Gianfranco ferre This garment is what inspired my dress with the almost rushed and gathered style. To achieve this look I have cut and opened my pattern to add volume.
Week Seven –Details and inspira=on
Proenza Schouler This zip is similar to how I want mine to be finished off. With heavy duty zips in feminine outfits adds a grunge look and almost industrial feel.
I then looked at the heavy vision zips with plastic teeth. I decided that I would need a heavy industrial looking zip to add more of a grunge or even a little more masculine finish to the dress. When considered with the fabrics however I found the plastic teeth cheapened the overall look of the garment and was too industrial.
I finally decided on a heavy duty exposed zips with silver metal teeth as opposed to gold teeth. I think this will give a nice finish to my garments and tough up the garments to make the collection go together. I think these zips give the punk/grunge edge I want for my final collection. On the inside I will neaten the edges so when worn open the inside will be clean cut and professional looking.
Week Seven -‐ Zips
I firstly looked at black concealed zips for my garments to give a neat and feminine finish. I thought this would keep the garment looking classy and well finished. I decided however that the garment was to feminine for my original idea and so I decided I wanted an exposed zips for embellishment rather than to neaten my garments.
I then decided on using a jersey wool with a ridge pattern as I found this thick and heavy fabric was relatively cheap at £5.15 a meter. I am now using this for my two garments and using leatherette for the sleeves to keep the leather aspect to it is still uniform with my leather trousers and jackets. Once constructed this heavy fabric was perfect for the weight and volume I intended when I cut and opened the pattern for my first garment.
I then decided on using a thick and thin leatherette. The thin at £4.25 a meter for the sleeves of each garment and the thick at £4.95 for the trousers jackets and straps. Also need to source some white leatherette for features on the jackets however if it cheapens the look I will not use it.
Week Seven – Fabric Samples
I firstly intended on using real black and white leather for my whole collection. I felt this would give it a sleek, uniform look. I wanted it to look heavy and expensive and thought it would be perfect for my restrictive theme which it is. However because of budget I have now been forced to look into other options as it costs £9:35 per sq foot.
I firstly sewed in the darts for the front and back of my garment. I then sewed the shoulder and side seams and the continued to over-lock the raw edges. I the sewed down the back seam until the point were I intended my zip to be. I had originally had a vent in the back of this garment however decided to add an exposed zip as a design feature that could be opened to give movement. I over-locked around were the sleeves would be as the material was fraying. I then made a 4cm binding for the 39cm neck-line and attached the binding and finished this off by over-locking the raw edges. I was unable to complete my garment as I didn’t have the zips I needed for the front, back and sleeves and so I will complete this garment the week after.
Week Four and Five -‐ Construc=on
Garment 1
I firstly hemmed the bottom of my garment to neaten the edge before adding the zip. I then added my 60in zip however found that it bubble because my garment is shaped in a curve to add volume to the sides. I therefore unpicked the zip to the waist and added two waist darts. I then finished my zip and hand stitched the top in place. I then continued to add the 24in zip in the back, not only as a design feature, but also to add movement when walked in. I also finished it off by hand stitching the top. When looking at my garment on a mannequin I found that my two waist darts were not level and so I had to unpick one and re-pin into and re-stitch it into place. Once doing this a part of the material had got caught and so I had to unpick it again which I had to be very careful with because of the woolen fabric was easily pulled and so this was very time consuming. After restitching it again I achieved the finish I wanted.
This is the my garment on the stand, next week I intend to finish the garment by adding my 26in zips to my leatherette sleeves, and then adding these to my garment.
Week Seven -‐ Construc=on
Garment 1
I firstly added a small facing to the bottom of my sleeves to neaten the edge. I then attached the 26in zips to each of my sleeves and then attached the sleeves to the garment to finish.
Garment 2
I firstly sewed in the darts in the front and back of my garment. I then attached a band round the neck to neaten but also give a polar neck affect. I then cut out my five straps out of my leatherette with a craft knife and a ruler to keep the edge neat. I the used the buckles off five inexpensive belts that I purchased and hand stitched each of them to my straps. I think the finished product looks quite affective. I the had to tack each of my straps to the side seams to keep them in place, I then sewed my side seams and over-locked the raw edges. I then had to measure each of the two top straps and cut them directly down the middle and added a long zip as the dress it fitted it is hard to get in and out of. I then had to sew in my vent at the bottom of the garment to allow movement when walked in. I then sewed up my two sleeves the long and short and attached the together before attaching to my garment. To finish I hemmed the bottom of the garment and added a small split in each sleeve which I added a top stitching detail to to allow easy access.
Week Eight-‐ Construc=on
Garment 1
I firstly cut out the leatherette for my trousers. I sewed in the darts in both the front and back. I then had to created my fly front and so I stitched two of the pattern pieces together to create a neat cover up. I then stitched the remaining piece down the crutch of the left leg. Then I left a 1cm gap and stitched in the zip using a zipper foot. I then stitched the zip to the other leg and top stitched down the shape of the fly front. I then attached the neatened fly front piece to cover the zip. I then sewed the inside legs and and hemmed the two legs before I attached the 20in zip down one leg and sewed up the side seam. Next week I intend to do the same to the other leg and attach my waist band to finish.
Week Nine -‐ Construc=on
Trousers 1