explorer November 2013
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT
magazine
k o o C s d n Isla
r a e y r e t s e Y f o s a e S h The Sout
Cities of Love The World’s Most Romantic Cities Oslo The New Home of Scandinavian Cool
Headphones for Travellers • Shangri-La Hotel The Marina Cairns • The Little Airline That Could
Publisher’s Letter 2 www.explorer-magazine.com
Welcome… To the latest issue of Explorer, the eco-friendly digital travel magazine dedicated to intrepid adventurers like you. This issue has a little something for everyone, whether you’re coupled up or running solo, seeking a relaxing break or a daredevil escapade. We start with a round-up of eight of the most romantic cities to explore with your significant other; Paris is obvious, but don’t miss San Francisco, Cape Town, and Bangkok. Next, we show you how to spend 24 hours in Oslo so you can see for yourself why this picturesque city is Scandinavia’s new home of cool. Discovering new places and things is the best part about travel, so we’ve got a run-down of the hottest new houses of slumber for the next time you’re in Sydney, Paris, Marrakech, or the Maldives. Adding to the thrill of discovery, we take you to explore the history and traditions of Aitutaki, one of the many islands that make up the paradisiacal South Pacific archipelago of the Cook Islands. To soothe the dreariness of travel – the dead time on planes, trains and other modes of transport – we’ve also road-tested some of the most cutting-edge headphones around, so you’ll always have quality audio to keep you busy and block out unwanted distractions. Happy Travels!
David Leung
Publisher Explorer Magazine
I N S P I R E D B Y PA S S I O N
hotel EXPERIENCE by Constance
The magical settings fuel our Passion to create for you
The Ultimate Hotel Experience Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772 /73 or visit us at www.constancehotels.com
world in pics
Sundowner cocktails, Africa style. Credit: Elewana Collection
Wonders of theWorld A feast fit for kings, in Thailand. Credit: Anantara
A paradise for sun worshippers, the Maldives is breaking away from its conventional European markets and looking east for new travellers. Credit: Per Aquum.
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Getting air at Queensland’s Airlie Beach. Credit: Queensland Tourism
An increasing number of cruise ships have placed New Zealand’s stunning Milford Sound on their southern summer itineraries. Credit: Tourism New Zealand
From ancient marvels to natural wonders, the world is waiting to be discovered.
A monk in Bhutan is captured with the lens. The tiny Himalayan kingdom is now a travel hotspot. Credit: Como Hotels
The annual Birdman competition has teams competing for mere inches of flight. Credit: Queenstown Tourism
Lavender fields turn the landscape royal purple. Credit: Trafalgar
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What’s Happening
From cowboy poetry to Nordic fire dances,
HOGMANAY
NATIONAL COWBOY POETRY GATHERING
Kick off the new year with a spectacular three-day party in Edinburgh, Scotland. The city will be illuminated by the Torchlight Procession, and revelers from all over the world will be enthralled by the street party and the Concert in the Garden, featuring the Pet Shop Boys. The highlight of the evening will be the midnight fireworks display in front of stunning Edinburgh Castle. www.edinburghshogmanay.org
A celebration of wild western lifestyles and traditions, the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering brings rodeo riders, ranchers, and thousands of visitors together in the small community of Elko, to share the culture and life of the cowboy. Participants can enjoy poetry and music, watch western films, and experience cowboy-themed art. Look out for traditional cookouts under the stars. www.westernfolklife.org
UP HELLY AA
ATI-ATIHAN
The largest fire festival in Europe, Up Helly Aa welcomes plenty of locals and visiting festival-goers to celebrate Nordic culture and heritage each year. Be sure to arrive in time to watch the famed fiery torch-lit procession through the town, followed by the traditional burning of a Nordic galley. Afterwards, stick around for the evening parties and performances throughout Lerwick. www.uphellyaa.org
Enjoy an eye-catching nine-day feast in Kalibo, in honour of the baby Jesus, with a host of mesmerising soot-black painted-faced villagers, who dress in elaborate animal bone and feather headdresses and dance the night away to tribal drums and singing. The festival also includes a variety of activities, from parades, trade fairs, and art exhibitis, to the famous Sadsad Street dance. www.kaliboatiatihan.ph
Edinburgh, Scotland December 29, 2013 – January 2, 2014
Lerwick, Scotland January 28, 2014
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Elko, Nevada, USA January 27 – February 1, 2014
Kalibo, Phillipines January 10-19, 2014
here’s what’s happening in your world this season.
LA ART SHOW
HONG KONG FOOD FESTIVAL
The most comprehensive art experience on the West Coast, the 2014 LA Art Show. will showcase top-notch galleries in four distinct sections: Modern & Contemporary, Historic & Traditional, Vintage Poster, and the IFPDA Los Angeles Fine Print Fair, complemented by a series of art-themed programs, including lectures, tours, and special exhibits. Don’t forget to purchase a one day or four-day pass online for discounts. www.laartshow. com
Enjoy an epicurean adventure during Christmas at the 11th Hong Kong Food Festival, with its array of delicacies from all over the world, ranging from spicy kimchi and traditional Chinese dim sum, to Indian curry and Japanese sushi. An exquisite collection of premium wines from the world’s leading wineries will also be showcased in different tasting sessions. www.hka.com.hk
JAIPUR KITE FESTIVAL
PINGXI SKY LANTERN FESTIVAL
Celebrated every year in the capital city of Rajasthan, the Jaipur Kite Festival gathers families, friends and visitors to fly their kites high above the Indian sky. While the kite enthusiasts are showing off their skills and competing with each other, revelers can indulge themselves at the food stalls selling local Indian delicacies. www.pinkcity.com/jaipur-events/jaipur-kite-festival/
While most people make their wishes by crossing their fingers and blowing out candles on their birthday cakes, people in Taiwan write their wishes on lanterns and send them straight to the heavens. During this annual festival, the Taiwanese launch their dreams skywards three times, hoping to not only brighten up the nightscape of Pingxi, but also to bring good luck for the coming year. www.taiwan.gov.tw
Los Angeles, USA January 15 – 19, 2014
Jaipur, Rajasthan, India January 14 – 16, 2014
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong December 25 – 28, 2013
Pingxi, Taiwan February 13, 2014
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News Unexplored Antarctica
From February 2014, adventure cruise specialists Aurora Expeditions will be offering passengers the rare opportunity to snorkel the icy waters of Antarctica alongside penguins, seals, and whales. The unique experience will allow passengers to explore a new side of Antarctica; intrepid adventurers will get the chance to discover the blinding speed at which penguins enter and exit the ice, marvel at the behemoth icebergs below the water, explore sheltered bays and secluded shipwrecks, and swim alongside inquisitive marine mammals. All expeditions are led by expert polar diving guides and use state of the art equipment, including specially-designed drysuits, gloves, hoods, weight belts, fins, masks, and snorkels. Passengers will be provided with all the necessary training and equipment. As well as snorkelling, passengers will have the option to scuba dive, sea kayak, camp, climb, or polish their photography skills on select voyages. www.auroraexpeditions.com.au
Family Getaways Made Easy
Rêves de Montagne, an elegant chalet near Samoëns, France, has taken the hassle out of organising family ski vacations with a number of family-friendly extras which will keep the kids safe and entertained while allowing the parents to relax. Airport and slope transfers are done in cars fitted with age-appropriate child seats; the chalet is fully equipped with cots, highchairs, baby monitors and other essentials; there are books, games, and safe outdoor areas for snowball fights and sledging; and there’s 24-hour kitchen access – complete with bottle sterilising equipment – for late night or early morning feeds. The expansive chalet sleeps up to 14 guests, and includes two family suites; each bedroom has space for a cot, and some have space for an extra single bed. Also on offer are indulgent breakfasts and evening meals; children are provided with nutritious, catered suppers at 6pm, and after bedtime, adults can feast on sumptuous four-course dinners with wine. During the day, explore the 265 kilometres of groomed pistes that make up the Grand Massif ski area, while the kids enjoy the Villages des Enfants (kids’ village) at nearby Morillon, which offers nursery care from six months, and ski lessons for kids aged three years and up. www.revesdemontagne.com
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Only Cameras and Horses
Photographer Malcolm Snelgrove has created a new series of photography workshops set in Devon, England, that are designed to capture the countryside’s stunning scenery and beautiful equines, and provide the perfect weekend for amateur photographers and equestrians alike. The workshops have been carefully developed to give participants a thorough understanding of camera equipment, and photographing landscapes and horses. The Discover Dartmoor workshops include two full days of photography, using Clydesdales and Dartmoor ponies as the subjects. For those with a little experience behind the lens, Malcolm has access to some of the best equestrian competition venues in the area, at which he offers his Capture the Action at an Equestrian Event workshops, perfect for learning to capture great action shots. Packages for the workshops include three nights’ accommodation at a moorland hotel, and all meals. Prices begin at £345. www.equestrianphotographer.co.uk
New Intrepid Adventures
Intrepid Travel is celebrating 25 years as the leading small group adventure specialists with the launch of an exciting series of new tours for 2014 which will take travellers further off the beaten track in places like Burma, Vietnam, Cuba, and Southern Africa. Highlights include the Burma Sailing trip which explores the islands of the Myeik archipelago by yacht, and the Cuba Music and Dance itinerary, where travellers will be immersed in the Caribbean island’s diverse musical scene which includes ballet, Afro-Cuban beats, salsa and percussion workshops, and the chance to record tracks with local musicians. Getting under the skin of a destination is a hallmark of Intrepid’s journeys, so you can choose to learn about coffee production while staying on a plantation on the Café Colombia tour; stay with the Hakka ethnic group on the South China Getaway trip; or explore South Africa, Swaziland, Mozambique and Zimbabwe almost completely on public transport – like minibuses, local buses, taxis, and traditional dhows – on the new Southern Africa Unplugged voyage. www.intrepidtravel.com
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News
Juice on the Road
TakeCharger LLC has solved all the problems associated with charging electronics on the road with the launch of ChargerGenie. Reputed to be the world’s first tote bag to feature a built-in power block, the innovative case is capable of charging up to eight electronic devices at one time. Currently available in three colours – black, red, or pink cheetah – the ChargerGenie may look like the average fashion tote, but it conceals six power outlets and two USB ports around its lower perimeter and able to charge devices like like phones, tablets, headphones and even laptops. The ChargerGenie is powered by a single cord, which is conveniently stored in a hidden compartment in the base of the bag. This useful case is currently available at a reduced price of US$39 on Indiegogo. www.chargergenie.com
Walk It Off
Walking is the best way to explore a city, and Ramblers Worldwide Holidays, experts in guided walking adventures, has introduced a new collection of tours for 2014. Designed to appeal to the leisurely amblers and determined pacers alike, each tour includes a dedicated walking tour leader, as well as a host of other activities, including bird-watching, cooking, cycling, cruising, photography, and rail journeys. New itineraries include Siena and Florence, an 11-day journey exploring the art, culture and countryside of two of Tuscany’s most picturesque cities; A Knight’s Island, a leisurely one week holiday on the Greek Island of Rhodes which includes varied architecture styles, sandy beaches, traditional cuisine, and the UNESCO-listed medieval city of Rhodes; and the Burmese Explorer, a 16-day trip which visits the temples at Bagan, the Road to Mandalay, the ancient city of Amarapura, and the Tawya Monastery. www.ramblersholidays.co.uk
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Cross-Country Ski Challenge
Baltic Holidays have created an exciting new offering for 2014 which is perfect for snow bunnies looking for a challenging skiing experience that goes off the beaten path. The 6-night cross-country skiing adventure takes participants on a course along the rarely-visited border between Finland and Russia. While making their way from chalet to chalet, skiers will get to see parts of the countryside unseen by most; not only are there stunning vistas of untouched wilds, but there is also a very good chance to see the Northern Lights. On average, you’ll ski about 20 kilometres a day, so you’ll probably want to be reasonably fit and have some good skiing experience if you want to take on this journey. But to recover from the day’s efforts, you’ll enjoy delicious food made from fresh local produce, campfires, and cosy chalets with saunas. The 2014 departure dates for these skiing journeys are February 22, March 9, and March 23. www.balticholidays.com
Family-Friendly Lodgings
Three properties from The Red Carnation Hotel Collection have just been ranked among the top family hotels in Europe. The Milestone Hotel, Ashford Castle and The Rubens at the Palace – all located in the UK – have been recognised for their family-friendly efforts. The Milestone Hotel, located just across from Kensington Palace, provides a special turndown treat for kids, as well as colour pencils, colouring books, children’s movies, and electronic games. For inquisitive tots, the ‘Milestone Mini Experience’ is a supervised backstage tour of different parts of the hotel. The Rubens at the Palace retains a Director of Fun and Adventure who can help young guests plan their exciting adventures in London. Tots staying here also receive a children’s map of London with stickers to mark the places they visit, and can participate in workshops with the hotel’s pastry chefs where they can decorate their own cupcakes. Asford Castle, the latest addition to the collection, provides a variety of estate activities for every age group. Kids can be kept busy with horse-riding, tennis, golf, lake fishing, picnics, and exceptional junior spa treatments. www.redcarnationhotels.com
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â– oslo
Scandi Home of 12 www.explorer-magazine.com
inavia’s of Cool Forget Copenhagen and Stockholm, Oslo is now the home to Scandinavian cool, with new restaurants, food markets, opera houses and museums ready for the long days of summer, discovers Nick Walton
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■ oslo 9am Having arrived the night before on one of SAS’s connections to Asia, which include Bangkok and Beijing, you’ll wake up to spectacular water views at the newly opened boutique beauty The Thief. Located in the heart of Tjuvholmen, an area of the city’s waterfront that was once a den of thieves - hence the name – and is now being revitalised as part of the new Fjord City project, the Design Hotels member boasts 119 rooms and suites decorated by the likes of Antonio Citterio, Bruno Rainaldi, Tom Dixon, Anne Haavind and StokkeAustad. Spoil yourself with a stay in the Oslo Suite; named for Sir Peter Blake’s unique art project, it features its own private roof terraces, the perfect spot from which to enjoy the splendour of summer on the Oslo fjord. www.thethief.com
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11am After an innovative breakfast created by executive chef Kari Innerå at The Thief’s Fru M restaurant, explore the canals and waterways of modern Tjuvholmen, home to chic galleries and trendy restaurants, until you reach the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art, which recently moved to a new Renzo Piano-designed home on the cusp of the fjord. Dedicated more to outstanding, eye-catching, thought-provoking and sometimes outright scandalous pieces of art rather than entire movements, art lovers and newbies alike will love the thoroughly visual collections. This winter, look out for the Imagine Brazil exhibition, which focuses oncontemporary Brazilian art, on display until March. www.afmuseet.no
1pm Follow your tastebuds down the tramline from the waterfront to Oslo’s bohemian heart, Grünerløkka. Located only minutes from the city, this is one of the capital’s fastest emerging districts as its former warehouse and factory buildings benefit from some much needed TLC. The high street - Thorvald Meyers Gate – is home to quirky boutiques, tea emporiums, kitch furniture collections and streetside cafes. Hidden away in a former metal mill, Mathallen, the city’s newest gourmet food market, recently opened and has become the place for the indecisive and intrepid to graze. Home to 33 mini-restaurants, many of whom focus on authentic and innovative Norwegian cuisine using the finest local produce – including Stangeriet, home to arguably the world’s best chicken sandwich – pick and choose from a variety of culinary trends and then eat collectively under a canopy of steel beams and chandeliers. www.mathallenoslo.no
3pm Walk off your meal among the captured creations of the Vigelandsparken Sculpture Arrangement, which lies at the heart of expansive Frogner Park, a beautiful greenbelt made up of long walk ways, fountains, bridges, and of course, sculptures. The park is an Oslo must-see in any weather, but as the sunny months arrive, its shaded parklands become a hub for locals, while the sculpture arrangement, the largest in world by one artists, sees between one and two million visitors a year. Wind through the 212 human figures sculpted by Gustav Vigeland and marvel at the Monolith, a crowning sculpture of humanity carved from one piece of stone that reaches 14 metres into the sky. If you’ve got an eye for sculpture, the Vigeland Museum is located five minutes walk away. www.vigeland.museum.no 6pm In summer the days are long in Oslo, and the views over the fjord are fantastic in the golden light, so order something zesty and take a perch on the open air terrace at the Ekeberg Restaurant. An icon since 1927, the restaurant is located high up on a peak overlooking the city and offers spectacular views across the new Fjord City development and the city’s breathtaking new opera house. The menu is modern Norwegian, with the likes of locally-caught lobster ravioli with fennel and dill; and Holte Farm chicken breast with sweet corn cream married with an enviable wine list. Be sure to book ahead for a coveted terrace table. www.ekebergrestauranten.com
9pm For the city’s best live music experience, head back to Grünerløkka and Blå, an iconic venue that hosts concerts in electronic, hip-hop, pop, and rock but is best known for its jazz nights. Dimly lit and thoroughly industrial, expect appearances from some of Europe’s top talents as well as plenty of up-andcoming local artists. www.blaaoslo.no 9am Hit the pavement early with a takeaway coffee and take a brisk walk to Oslo’s new opera house. Even if you’re not seeing a performance here – and you should – the angular architecture makes it a marvel for the eyes, especially as the first rays of sun reflect off the fjord in front. Cut through the leafy parklands surrounding the ancient Akershus Fortress, once a castle and now used for formal occasions by the Royal Family, on your way back to the waterfront. 10am Get an early start with a ferry from near your hotel across to Bygdoy, on the far side of the Oslo Fjord. The peninsula is home to some of the city’s best museums, including the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, the Norwegian Maritime Museum, and the Kon-Tiki Museum, dedicated to the expeditions of Thor Heyerdahl. Be sure to take your swimming trunks for a dip before lunch at trendy Hukodden Beach Restaurant before diving into the fjord’s rich history with a visit to the acclaimed Viking Ship Museum. www.vikingeskibsmuseet.dk
Travel Essentials Getting There: SAS connects Oslo with Tokyo, Beijing, Bangkok, Shanghai and Singapore (codeshare with Singapore Airlines) via Copehagen. www.flysas.com Where to Stay: The Thief has rooms from Kr1,650 (US$287) twin share; www. thethief.com Word to the Wise: The Oslo Pass is a great way to explore the city’s many museums and attractions. www.visitoslo.com Must Buys: Akvavit – or akevitt in Norwegian – is the local firewater and has been produced from spices and herbs like caraway and dill since the 15th century. It’s best brought in duty free stores.
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, e v o L Have W
■ romantic cities
ur. Discover o m a f o s re fi e y to stoke th a w l a e ine, and id is e u c th l a is c lo c ti Travel n ales, try authe c lo g top eight in ’s it r c x re e lo d p x E in new an outique hotels b c ti n a m ro to k Walton check in ic N y B . ld r o w of the romantic cities
Paris
’s most favourite city , and easily the world Ah, the City of Lights gle up with some uples looking to snug co d an rs ne oo ym ne for ho ris has been a favourite d beautiful vistas. Pa culture, fine wine, an -famous landmarks, rations, with its world , and with the city for lovers for gene g ts, and sprawlin parks ran tau res t ee str ck ba quaint all. Check in at the ine cutting through it Se g rin de an me y ntl ge ted in the heart of the Paris-Vendôme. Loca indulgent Park Hyatt walking distance of e de la Paix, and within city, on the famed Ru Vendôme, the Park ce Pla ncorde and the Co la de ce Pla the both ns. From here, set off gant base of operatio Hyatt makes for an ele of the river before emerge on the banks on foot to see morning d a spot of people an e issants and coffe cro sh fre for in ing stopp famed Louvre early to tre Dame. Get to the watching outside No y 16th Arrondissee exploring the trend avoid the crowds befor galleries. Spend the ments and boutique art ap al reg its h wit ment, Saint-Ouen before famed flea markets at the ing er. lor exp n oo ern aft deck of the Eiffel Tow from the observation watching the sunset
Barcelona One of Europe’s most exciting and foot-friend ly cities, Barcelona in the summer is an awesome destinatio n for culture lovers, designophiles and foodies. Check in at the Mandarin Oriental Barcelona, one of the group’s few boutique hotels, and one that boasts an ideal location on the Passeig de Gràcia, one of the city’s chicest boulevards. Set out on foot for the city’s iconic Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família, a stunning cathedral which was designed by the city’s own Antoni Gaudí. You’ll find examples of Gaudi’s organic and otherworldly shapes and textures in buildings throughout the city. Head down to La Rambla, the heart of the city and a great spot for people watching and a bite to eat. Couples should head for the sprawling La Boqueria markets for fresh tapas and a cold Spanish beer and explore the narrow side streets for local fashi on labels before ending up at the beachfront in time for sund owner cocktails outside the W hotel.
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Will Travel Sydney
A city which captivates virtually everyone who visits, Sydney is defined by its world-famous harbour and the warm weather which makes al fresco dining and outdoor events a must. Sydney’s harbour has long been considered one of the world’s most beautiful natural anchorages; a stunning sapphire strip with myriad waterways, inlets, bays, and beaches, and a scattering of islands for good measure. For couples visiting this thriving city, the harbour is a place to meet, to relax, to enjoy and to marvel. Start off in bustling Circular Quay, where you can catch ferries up the Paramatta River or down to Watson’s Bay, through to Middle Harbour or across to Manly. Home to some of Sydney’s most iconic restaurants, happy hour revelers or opera goers should stop in for a pre-show tipple at Opera Bar, one of the city’s most iconic watering holes. If you’re in the city on the weekend, head over to the Rocks Markets, home to brilliant arts and crafts, live music, and a culinary kaleidoscope. To be in the thick of the action, check into the newly reopened and utterly indulgent Park Hyatt Sydney, located between the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House.
the United States, most livable cities in the of e on ed vot ly lar Regu parks, chic cafes to a all, from museums to s San Francisco has it ry rises, the city make re, and as the mercu se Ba . es ag dynamic cocktail cultu all of les ay to the US for coup cated for the perfect gatew Union Square hotel. Lo on ton ing ns Ke e qu uti bo hotel e the qu at uti lf bo rse om you 92-ro ed cable car lines, the s. itie en am ry ora close to the city’s fam mp of luxury with conte e ns se c gest ssi lar cla ’s a s rld combine one of the wo the Golden Gate Park, at s ort off y sp , da ns r rde you ga rt Sta home to e 411-hectare park is an es tur fea ich wh urban greenbelts. Th s, ce rnia Academy of Scien grounds, and the Califo on, and an expansive a natural history secti , ium ch tar ne pla m, riu aqua nts. Take a leisurely lun 1.7 million native pla ck Ja ll sse Ru ef roof garden, home to Ch ere rcadero on Pier 5, wh ts at Lafitte at The Emba the freshest ingredien ing us e isin cu rn de mo nt, ga ke ele s ma , ate sky son cre s low in the e day. As the sun dip or to he can find on any on Golden Gate Bridge, the of gth ost 3km len e tur ven Ad ; tive ec time to walk the alm rsp pe e from a different tur uc str nd nic isla ico n so the admire the famous pri yacht cruises around Cat offer catamaran te. Ga n ath the Golde of Alcatraz and bene
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■ romantic cities
New York the – especially those on ere many love affairs wh y to the cit rk a Pa is al rk ntr Yo Ce w Ne n. From d, and for good reaso sleeps ver ne ich wh y big screen – are forge cit a and Soho, this is e lag Vil the hotel at to se up d Mu Battery an funky yet chic Base yourself at the . ow e for sh yb on ma s – ay e alw Av is and head to 5th there, couples should some for n tow ina Ch to Times Square. From s ros g – before heading ac Hall or a spot of ring shoppin in a show at Carnegie e Tak y. cit the in e isin cu a spot ian er As aft st n be rde of the Square Ga al teams at Madison re are the e urs co Of s. support one of the loc district or at Macy’ t en rm ga g the in lkin y wa of retail therap should do, from things that all couples a ple em Ap cin Big or nic tdo ico some the evening ou and catching one of y rk da Pa tur al Sa y ntr nn Ce su gh a ou on thr Brooklyn Bridge the g lkin t wa to tha y gh cit ou sets on the showings, thr of Liberty. As the sun tue Sta the st to be r , ne ove g sce or cruisin lectic dining to sample the city’s ec y’s never sleeps, be sure e hitting one of the cit for be t, tric Dis atpacking experienced in the Me many live jazz clubs.
Russia’s second lar gest city might be snowed under for come the summer half the year, but months, its rich he ritage, from historic meandering canals, buildings to is a major draw ca rd for lovers from ac Base yourself at the ross the world. elegant Grand Hotel Europe, located off pect in the heart of Nevsky Prosthe city. With beau tifully-appointed roo and a clientele tha ms and suites, t demands the hig hest qualities of se the city’s Grand Da rvice, this remains me house of slumb er. First stop should mitage Museum, loc be the Herated at the Winter Palace. The city’s top the palace museum attraction, showcases more tha n three million items works by Rembran , including dt, Da Vinci, Michela ngelo and more. Lo enjoy visiting the Ch vers will also urch of the Saviour, a traditional Russian built on the spot wh -style church ere Tsar Alexander II was assassinated other famous landm in 1881. Anark worth checking out is the Church of tion of Mary, locate the Assumpd on Vasilievsky Isl and. As the sun dr finery and head to ops, dress in your a night at the opera at the famed Mariin before enjoying thi sky theatre s historic city on on e of the popular ev that pass the Peter ening canal rides and Paul Fortress, vodka and caviar inc luded.
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romantic cities ■
A city which has rei nvented itself, Cape Town is increasingly as a gateway for sa popular faris, an ideal hone ymoon adventure, surprised if you’re so don’t be not the only lovers in town. With the cit on its iconic Table y’s main focus Mountain and the Victoria and Albert in at the luxurious Waterfront, check One & Only Cape To wn, which is locate the vibrant quaysid d right on e. Set off on foot an d explore Bo-Kaap, neighbourhood inh the colourful abited mainly by the decedents of Musli Southeast Asia. He m slaves from re you’ll find tiny mo sques, brilliant cafes streets overlooking , and colourful the city. Couples wi ll also enjoy a stroll Kirstenbosch Botan through the ical Gardens, which boast a huge divers and flowers from ac ity of plants ross Africa. Take a ferry over to Robben Nelson Mandela wa Island where s imprisoned. The island is now home nies of African peng to large colouins. Alternatively, take a trip up to the Mountain by cable top of Table car and snap a few iconic photos of the vertiginous vista. Fin city from this ish your day with sh ark feeding at the Aquarium before din Two Oceans ner at one of the se afood restaurants Victoria and Albert at the bustling Waterfront.
Cape Town ngkok invigorating cities, Ba iving, pulsating, and thr st g mo tin as ia’s Bo As of ul. e On for the so for the senses as it is is a journey as much ss restaurants to cla rld wo d an s tel que ho everything from bouti the city constantly ts, rke stling floating ma bu d an al s ple tem nt ancie dernity, making it ide st and the other in mo y’s cit the o int k ec has one foot in the pa Ch weekend escapes. tic an rom or ns tel oo for honeym urious riverside ho way, The Siam, a lux m newest boutique hidea i’ Sukosol Clapp. Fro ‘No da celebrity Krissa for ad he d an ks -tu created by local Thai -like tuk the city’s bumblebee h and hig e etr -m 15 the river, hail one of a , ha iconic Reclining Budd Wat Pho, home to the . To satisfy your taste vered Buddha statue co ldts, go g lon e etr -m 43 chak Weekend Marke r place than the Chatu ur ate am d an rs buds, there’s no bette pe op sh d a treasure trove for ak, Thailand’s largest, an er its Thai name Jatuj aft JJ as ply sim n ow Kn . 30 soccer ers ph as gra me oto ph out the sa area of 27 acres – ab with up ish Fin lls. Chatuchak covers an sta opping 15,000 wh a to me , ho is d sp t an pitches – forgettable ho ots one of Asia’s most un at r ne This t. din d ran an tau ls res tai cock al fresco world’s highest, truly the d an er Riv a ray Sky Bar at Sirocco, the Ph e views of the Chao gre de 0g 27 kin ers loo off lofty perch tails – if you’re the city’s hottest cock of me so h wit e, ap citysc is it! good impression, this for a place to make a
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â– New Hotels
New Boys
on the Block Around the world, exciting new hotels are opening to welcome new waves of travellers looking for luxury, cultural insight, and great food. Here are some of our favourites. 20 www.explorer-magazine.com
My Special Little Island One of the most anticipated opening in the Maldives this year, Velaa Private Island redefines luxury in one of the most popular sun-kissed getaways on the planet. Located north of the capital Malé, within the Noonu Atoll, Velaa Private Island, which opens December 1, is the brainchild of founders Radka and Jiri Smejc and epitomises their own sense of intimacy and luxury after years living the jetset life. With architecture by Czech designer Petr Kolar, Velaa’s 43 private villas and five four-bedroom residences fuse local materials with contemporary touches, including spacious private pools. To make the most of your Maldivian escape, opt for one of the 18 sumptuous overwater villas, and be sure to pamper yourself with a visit to the unique My Blend By Clarins spa, the first in the Maldives. Michelinstarred chef Adeline Grattard will oversee the resort’s signature restaurant Aragu & Cru, as well as breakfast nook Tavaru; couples will love her destination dinners in the Maldives’ tallest tower (pictured), while golfers will be tempted to perfect their swing at the Maldives’ only Troon Short Game Golf Academy, designed by Masters champ Jose Maria Olazabal. www.velaaisland.com
Princely Position After a US$200 million renovation at the hands of Ertim Architectes SA and French designers Pierre-Yves Rochon and Bruno Borri, Paris’ acclaimed Prince de Galles has reopened with new look rooms, suites, and public spaces. Each of the landmark Luxury Collection hotel’s 115 guest rooms and 44 suites have been reimagined by the design duo as private rooms in a luxurious residence reminiscent of the defining Art Deco style from the 1930s. Each unique space features exquisite materials and design accents such as custom Art Deco furniture, elegant furnishings in Macassar ebony wood, Saint Laurent marble floors, and intricate mosaics artwork created by illustrious French ‘maisons’ selected by Rochon. For the ultimate Parisian hideaway, the hotel’s extravagant two-story, 245sqm L’Appartement Parisien comes complete with breathtaking panoramic views and distinct Art Deco design accents. Leave room for a visit to the signature La Scène restaurant, now headed by Stéphanie Le Quellec, one of the most promising talents in the French culinary scene. www.princedegallesparis.com
Industrial Exposure Located in the heart of Pyrmont, a newly gentrified corner of central Sydney, new boutique beauty 1888 Hotel is dedicated to the captured image. Named for the year Kodak launched its patent for its first box and roll cameras, guests at the iron bark and bronze-bedecked boutique hotel will have access to Instagram-friendly walking maps of Pyrmont, a harbourfront precinct once populated by warehouses and shipyards, while the hotel’s lobby will host revolving photographic exhibitions of Instagram images taken by guests. The former wool storage warehouse underwent a two-year AU$30 million (US$26.8 million) renovation to reveal the 90-room hotel, which includes a coveted rooftop penthouse apartment with city skyline views. The new house of sumber is walking distance from the Sydney Convention Centre and CBD as well as the restaurants and bars of Darling Harbour and Cockle Bay. www.1888hotel.com.au
Rural Reprieve In the group’s first venture into North Africa, Grace Hotels has opened a luxury boutique hideaway in the village of Tamesloht, outside the hotspot of Marrakech. The new Grace Marrakech, formerly the Les Terres M’ Barka, marries breathtaking views of the Atlas Mountains with 18 sumptious one, two, and three-bedroom suites wreathed by olive groves, organic vegetable gardens, and horse stables. Our favourites are the two VIP Suites, which feature elaborate Moroccan craftsmanship and design, as well as private gardens and a shared swimming pool, and are perfectly suited for families travelling together. For a small number of rooms, the 15-hectare property has something for everyone, from the outdoor heated pool and intimate library, to the traditional farm kitchen, and full serviced spa, complete with hammam and whirlpool. Be sure to check out the hotel’s interactive Moroccan cooking classes and farm tours. www.gracehotels.com
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â– cook island
Jeff Groberman travels to remote Aitutaki in the Cook Islands, to discover a South Pacific paradise that works at a different pace from the rest of the world.
The South
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hYesteryear Seas of
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■ cook island t’s darker than the inside of a cow, and other than the odd small blue light, there’s no sign of an airport, let alone a runway. “I’ve seen grow ops with more landing lights than these,” I say to the woman sitting next to me. It’s just after midnight on Sunday, and we’re about to land on Aitutaki in the Cook Islands. The lady gives me a strange look and moves across the aisle from me. “I meant on television, not in real life.” I explain. The Cook Islands are smack in the middle of the South Pacific. If you drew a line from Hawaii to New Zealand, then the Cook Islands would be half way between the two. The capital Island, Rarotonga, is a pretty island where the pace of life is slow. But Rarotonga is the “Big Smoke” compared to Aitutaki. A couple of gentle bumps announce that we’ve arrived at the Aitutaki airport built by the Americans during WWII. The airport consists of a long runway with a few lights and a grass shack to pick up your luggage. On the way to the luggage shack I trip over a golf ball! I later learn that the Aitutaki airport is situated in the middle of the island’s only golf course. You have to actually shoot across the runway twice when playing the nine-hole course. I’m told it’s a two-ball penalty if your ball gets sucked into the intake of a plane taking off.
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Cook Islanders take their religion seriously; but none are as pious as those on Aitutaki. The reason we’re landing shortly after midnight on Sunday, is because the Aitutakians won’t allow any business activities on Sunday, including airplanes landing. When some flights did attempt to land on Sundays the Aitutakians responded by throwing sticks and stones on the runway, making for a rather bumpy landing. In my quest to find little out of the way islands, the local travel agent on Rarotonga told me that they’ve had a cancellation for a “beach cottage” on Aitutaki and I can have it at a healthy discount if I’m interested. Generally speaking the cost of living in the Cook Islands is high, compared to other Pacific Islands. The costs are very comparable to North America, and just an average motel room will cost over US$100 a night, and can go as high as US$600 a night for the upper end resorts. So US$125 a night for an entire cottage, with its own beach seemed like a great bargain. Meals are about the same as you’d pay in North America, and on Aitutaki everything is homemade: what you see walking around on the lawn in front of the restaurant in the morning is very likely to end up on your plate in the evening. In the morning I get up, remove the cockroach from my orange juice glass, and begin to explore my surroundings in the daylight. I have a feeling that I’ve stepped out of a time machine: Aitutaki appears to be what Hawaii was like 80 years ago. No tourists, no traffic: just pigs, chickens
and children running wild. I wander up to the road in front of my beach cabin, and see a group of uniformed children getting into an open air school bus. As the school bus departs, they all wave. After the school bus departs I don’t see another vehicle for half an hour: So much for Aitutaki’s rush hour. As I continue up the road, I’m startled when several pigs burst out of the underbrush and rush across the road. I’m impressed by how neat and tidy everything is. There are no piles of garbage, or rusting cars scattered about in people’s yards. Cook Islanders have a neatness fetish. Almost every morning you can see them sweeping their porches and out in their yards picking up coconuts and palm fronds. If any one’s yard is found to be less than spotless, their transgression is pointed out in front of everybody in Church on Sunday. My next door neighbour has a sign offering motorcycles for rent for US$20 a day. A couple of run down Hondas are on her driveway. As I’m looking at them she puts down her broom. “Do you want to rent one of these?” she asks. “I don’t know how to drive one,” I replied. “I’ll show you.” She offered.” It’s so simple, my nine year old son can do it.” “Okay, I’ll give it a shot. Where’s the helmet?” “Helmet? What do you need a helmet for?” Ten minutes and twenty dollars later I’m heading into town. I depart in a shower of sparks. The lesson left out the part about putting up the kickstand. I also have to adjust to the fact that on Aitutaki they drive on the left side of the road. Anywhere else I would have been dead, but since there’s absolutely no traffic at all, I arrive in one piece.
Town consists of three or four government buildings, a post office, a general store, and the Aitutaki Fisherman’s Club, where I drop in and introduce myself and spend a couple of hours getting to know the locals. One of them, Gordon, an elderly gent in his eighties, looks and talks like a retired British major from the Crimea War. Somehow, as all conversations in Aitutaki inevitably do, we ended up discussing pigs. When this came up, the other two guys at the table began shaking their heads invoking that classic Fawlty Towers line “Don’t mention the war, Basil.” In this case, it was “Don’t mention the pigs, Jeff.” But it was too late, the pig was out of the proverbial poke, and Gordon started off on a diatribe of what people can and cannot do with other people’s pigs. Evidentially if you catch a neighbours pig in your garden you can shoot it. But you have to share the meat 50/50 when you butcher it. When I questioned the old guy about this, he gets furious with me. “How dare you discuss pigs with me!” He shouted. “What with you being here less than a day!” He got up stormed out. “Never bring the subject of pigs up with Gordon.” One of the other locals around the table informed me knowingly, “It sets him off.” On the return trip to my beach cottage I learn another lesson about riding motorbikes: Don’t carry more than a six-pack of beer in the basket on the handlebars - it makes it hard to steer. In the late afternoon I sit on my deck and watch the sunset as local children frolic in a homemade outrigger canoe. It’s only been a few days but I’ve come to love this island. So if you really want to see the South Seas as they used to be, Aitutaki is as good as it gets. Just don’t mention the pigs.
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■Technology The Audio Technica ATH-M50 professional studio monitor headphones are designed to provide listeners with an audio quality that’s great for music enthusiasts and up to scratch for music and mixing pros. As bulky as they are professional, they may not be ideal for travel on the trot, but their close-backed cushioned ear cup design does help maximise noise isolation while maintaining comfort, ideal for long flights or days on the beach. The sound quality is well-balanced and dynamic, with a rich and emphasised deep base. www.audio-technica.com
Good tunes are the perfect accompaniment to life on the road. Make the most of your music with these cutting edge headphones.
Candy for the Marshall has unveiled a pair of retro-designed headphones that brings you a listening experience akin to being at a a live concert. With its over-theear design, the Marshall Monitor works brilliantly to isolate noise and disturbances while promising a comfortable listening experience without being weighty or bulky. The new headphones feature a felt treble filter system and produce a deep bass, extended highs, and well-balanced mids. www.marshall.com
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Ears
The just released B&O Play BeoPlay H6 headphones from Bang & Olufsen should be on every regular travellers mid-year Christmas wish list. As elegantly designed as they are technologically sophisticated, the H6 over-ear headphones blend authentic sound with simple and superb ergonomic comfort. Made from anodised high purity aluminium, the headphones are light, and at the same time durable and robust; the solid New Zealand cowhide leather on the BeoPlay H6 headphones is completely natural and is dyed with a tanning process that provides colours in rich and warm tones. www.bang-olufsen.com
The Beats Executive, the newest addition to Dr Dre’s headphone family and one that’s focused more on the older generation than the kids, is specially designed for busy executives and travellers to take on the road. These chic new headphones, which come with an aluminium body and soft leather cushioning, fold away easily, making them portable and easy to pack. The Executive headphones aren’t just good looking; excellent noise cancellation improves audio clarity, especially during the continuous noise of jet travel, and a custom EQ feature helps listeners create their own user profile. www.beatsbydre.com
e Jabra continues to entertain the market with high-quality headphones like the Jabra Revo Wireless, an ideal combination of outstanding audio performance and fashionable design that elevates the listening experience. Aluminium and steel construction enhances durability, while the flexible headband keeps the headphones securely over the ears. Touch-sensitive controls let users play and pause the music, and adjust the volume, with ease. Together with Jabra’s exclusive SoundApp, the Dolby Digital Plus technology builds a fuller and richer sound, while the NFC pairing design allows synchronisation with other media devices. www.jabra.com
Bowers & Wilkins recently introduced a new bold-blue family member to its award-winning P-series line of headphones. The Bowers & Wilkins P3 mobile hi-fi headphones retain the refined sound performance of the P-series, and deliver detailed and natural sound for music-lovers. The P3 features a custom-made driver to ensure high-quality and a superb sound experience, and are durable, lightweight, and portable, thanks to an aluminium and rubber outer shell, a compact hardshell carry case and an innovative folding mechanism. A complement of cable choices ensure seamless connectivity with a range of media devices. www.bowers-wilkins.com
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â– Bali Bliss
Eastern Escape
Explorer reader Uma Paro cruises the streets of Bangkok in the city’s most venerable transportation.
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One iconic property on Bali’s eastern flank instills the exotic tranquility of the island’s past, while heralding in new levels of luxury for the romantically inclined, discovers Nick Walton.
F
or regular travellers to Bali looking to escape the bustle of the south, and for newbies looking for an experience that encapsulates the beauty and spirituality of this remarkable island, Amankila, a clifftop retreat far from the crowds, might be the perfect hideaway from the world. Aman resorts are synonymous with spearheading trends rather than blinding following behind, and for infusing the culture and traditions of a destination into any stay. Amankila, a palatial citadel of seclusion perched high on the cliffs of Candidasa, is a well-kept secret of the world’s jetset, who escape the rat race for its lavish stilted suites, breathtaking infinity pools and chic beach club. Frangipaniwreathed walkways, indulgent poolside cabanas and the lush gardens which surround this endof-the-world property, combined with the vivid hue of the Bali Sea, define the Balinese experience of old with understated sophistication. Of course the most important place in any romantic hilltop hideout has to be the guest rooms, lavish little corners that couples can retreat to after a long day exploring nearby temples and coastal islands. Amankila has 34 free standing stilted suites, each of which seemingly floats in the warm evening air, connected to the rest of the world only by a tiny walkway. Each spacious suite features traditional alang alang roof thatching, deep covered private patios with day beds, an ample guest room decked out in rich wood tones and a canopied king-sized bed, and in many cases views down to the sea. In typical Aman fashion, bathrooms are a celebration of space and contours; our Ocean Suite features a stone shower stall and a bathtub beside a window which opens to the warm breezes coming up the valley below. Little touches add to the room’s elegance, from the coconut-shell dressing table to the terrazzo vanities, to the grinning Balinese deities perched above the front door. Couples looking to truly escape should opt for one of the resort’s
pool suites, including Kilasari, which boasts its own 12-metre infinity pool, or the opulent Amankila Suite, with its two bales, beach views, butler service and private aquamarine-tiled swimming pool. If you do emerge from your room, you’ll need sustenance; The Restaurant is located beside the main pool and does brilliant lingering breakfasts with views to kill down the coastline, as well as Asian and Western lunches. A complimentary afternoon tea is served daily in the Library and served by local women dressed in traditional kebayas. The spicy local ginger tea is not to be missed. For those willing to further embrace their tropical surrounds, brunch and lunch is also served at Amankila’s chic Beach Club, a hideaway within a hideaway. Boasting its own expansive 41-metre swimming pool and attentive service on and off the beach, the Beach Club is one of the island’s most luxurious, and is where many guests while away their afternoons. There are dawn and dusk yoga sessions held on the coconut-strewn lawns, shaded salas perched on the white sand beach, and two teakwood massage tables, perfect for guests who like to combine their wellness with the great outdoors. Reach the Beach Club by the well-worn cliffside track down from the main pool, safe in the knowledge that one of the resort’s novel little 4x4 buggies will climb you back to reception. Of course, not every couple wants to spend their days sequestered and Amankila’s cultural tours offer plenty of opportunities to delve into the local landscape, from visits to the royal water palaces of Klungkung and Karangasem, to the unique religious community of Tenganam, home to a rich and ancient textile tradition. Explore two of Bali’s most important temples – Luhur Lempuyang and Besakih – both of which are located in the east, climb the flanks of the sacred Mt Agung, or do we did and join other guests for an afternoon boat trip and a spot of snorkelling on hidden coral gardens. You’ll find yourself falling in love with Bali all over again. www.amanresorts.com www.explorer-magazine.com 29
■ hotel review
The Great Barrier Reef remains one of Australia’s most popular attractions, and in the sleepy city of Cairns – the gateway to the GBR – one hotel balances business and pleasure to perfection, discovers Nick Walton
The Balancing Act Background Located overlooking the city’s chic Marlin Marina and the entrance to the Coral Sea, the Shangri-La Hotel The Marina Cairns is as much a business hotel catering to the city’s commercial sector as it is a leisure hotel for reef and rainforest bound travellers. With spacious, well-appointed guest rooms, an enviable position, and the vibe of a boutique hotel, the Shangri-La leads the city’s luxury scene. The Room Opt for one of the hotel’s Horizon Club Marina View rooms. Arguably the best guest rooms in town, these spacious suites feature modern bathrooms with deep tubs and separate showers, king or twin configuration beds, a lounge space, and a deep balcony overlooking the restaurants and pleasure boats of the marina. The rooms are located on the hotel’s upper floors offering stunning views, while affording guests access to the exclusive Horizon Club, Shangri-La’s executive lounge. Be sure to ask for a room close to the Lounge; the low profile design of the hotel building means some rooms can be a long distance from amenities.
The Lounge The Horizon Club is another highlight of the Shangri-La and is a home away from home for all travellers. Cocktail hour is a great chance to meet fellow guests and is complimented by a stunning array of snacks and delectable nibbles created by the hotel’s culinary team. Breakfast is also a great chance to visit the Lounge, with a selection of newspapers, high-speed internet, and dedicated staff ensuring your day starts on a high note. Dining If you’re looking for something more substantial, head down to the water’s edge and North Food & Wine, one of the city’s leading restaurants. Located at Marina Dining Promenade, North specialises in modern Australian cuisine with Asian and Mediterranean influences. Start off with a cocktail at sunset in the Bá8 Lounge Bar, home to Spanish-style tapas that makes the most of locally-sourced ingredients, before making your way to your alfresco table at North for stellar cuisine matched with Australia’s best wines. Pierpoint Road Cairns, Queensland, Australia, Tel: +61 7 4031 1411; www.shangri-la.com
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■ reader’s report
One Night in
Bangkok
Explorer reader Uma Paro cruises the streets of Bangkok in the city’s most venerable transportation.
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ot unlike the tuk-tuk-like offspring that you see carrying tourists in some major American cities, the Bangkok tuk-tuk is a motorcycle with a roof and a bench-seat in the back, shiny with Maxi Glad protection plastic. The major difference between the tourist tuk-tuk’s and those in Bangkok is the environment in which they operate. Never in my wildest dreams, could I have imagined the noise, pollution, and traffic of Bangkok. We headed through large free-for-all roundabouts, and onto long highways that swooped down to street level before gaining altitude again. Like in the taxi on the way from the airport, the tuk-tuk uses it’s horn as a signal of presence, as indicators are only used by the elite in their new 600 series Mercedes Benzs! My girlfriend Sox and I held on for dear life as we swerved around Honda scooters, trucks and other tuk-tuks, finally screeching to a halt outside our travel agents, thoroughly exhilarated. The tuk-tuk is a fantastic way for tourists to get around, though they are a dying breed because in many cases the air-conditioned cabs are cheaper. Take the cabs for long distances like to the airport, to avoid the heat (a tuk-tuk probably won’t leave the city for anything
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less than 300bt anyway), but take a tuk-tuk when you want to see what’s around, and be deposited somewhere interesting. You will find that many tuk-tuk drivers understand English rather than speak it, and they will just look at you, smiling, while you try to explain what you want to do. The simple way is to write where you want to go (if you know) and then barter the price. Strangely, numbers and prices in English is something they have no problem with! For a real ride, take an hour tuk-tuk tour (after an hour your body will tell you that it is beer o’clock and time to get out of the heat). This way you can get your bearings around the city. Although I could not read any of the names of the streets, after a while, you recognize different parts of the city. For example, we went through the Chinatown district down Rama 1, which is one of the main highways. I knew after touring a couple of times in a tuk-tuk, that if I continued down that road I would get to the Bombay Markets, or if I went the other way, I could easily find a ride back to the south, home to the guest house. Another fantastic experience is to take a tuk-tuk tour during the night. We rode for an hour around palaces and floodlit temples, and around the huge Sanarmulang Park in the center of town where kids
played informal games of soccer under massive spotlights. Streets come alive with golden fairy lights and everywhere are shrines to both Buddha and the King. We refused to pay any more than 100bt (US$5) for an hour tour, as we learnt that was the lowest we could go. The reality is that one tuk-tuk you flag down will demand 300bt, but the next will grin at 100bt and will earn his keep! The new generation of tuk-tuk drivers are the ones who know that you are the money and are eager to satisfy, and they are also more likely to understand English. It is the younger drivers who like Europeans to scratch their backs while they cut costs. You see, in Bangkok, many companies advertise on the backs of tuk-tuk’s. Instead of the usual copper Thailand plate at the back of the bike, like the word Toyota on the back of a ute, you now see signboards advertising everything from airlines to stylish new toilet seats. But some companies go a little further than just signs. “You go for me, ten minutes, and I wait. You go, one coupon, you buy, two, up to you”! How could I resist such a sales pitch. Our driver, let’s call him Jerry, was clad in a dirty orange Polo shirt and had holes where his front teeth should have been. Surprisingly, Jerry
could speak quiet good English, and when we jumped into his lime green tuk-tuk, with its smiling Buddha statue hanging from the roof, it took him about a block to pull over and give us the pitch. Yes, we wanted a tour around Bangkok, and no we had not had time to shop yet. So off we went, Jerry smiling at us in the rear view mirror, a 555 cigarette in the corner of his mouth, revving his bike like he was at the start of the Indy 500, with the promise that if we would spend 10 minutes in selected stores, his ‘sponsors’, then he would drive us around for as long as we liked, all still for the agreed price of 100bt! The first shops were alright. The jewel factory had some amazing rings and the usual tourist items, and the first tailor we went to was friendly. But as soon as they realized that we would not be buying on that day, their whole attitude changed! After four hours in the back of a tuk-tuk we had had enough of sun, traffic and tailors. We headed back to our guesthouse very satisfied with the deal. Most tuk-tuk drivers will try this deal on with you. If you have no set destination, then it’s worth a try. The drivers get a five liter petrol voucher from the stores if you spend at least ten minutes inside, which makes their day, and you can get a great look around, not to mention some awesome quotes on a new suit. www.explorer-magazine.com 33