Jeweller

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NOVEMBER

LovePods by


BEAD WATCH TO FIT ALL BRACELETS

Time

Forbids DESIGN RIGHTS PENDING

we only sell the watch component

Sams Watchmaker Jeweller Pty Ltd Ph: 02 9290 2199 Fax: 02 9262 1630 E: sales@classiquewatches.com W: www.classiquewatches.com




inside 21

34

21 white now

39 just kidding

From diamonds with titanium to palladium bridal rings, the size and accessibility of today’s white metal offering is unrivalled. CARLA CARUSO reports.

Children’s jewellery is an oft-overlooked category but, as BIANCA MANGION discovers, many loving parents like to pamper their little ones.

34 design awards

42 packing for punch

The JAA Jewellery Design Awards celebrated its 20th ­anniversary with a modish cocktail party and a treasure-trove of new designs. BIANCA MANGION was on the guest list.

NOVEMBER 2008

Jewellers looking to differentiate their product and attract ­customers need to reinvigorate their approach to display, packaging and visual merchandising. STEWART BRAUN reports.

42 REGULARS 06 Editorial 08 CEO report 10 News 14 bulletin 17 cuts 19 latest releases 47 world fair guide 59 Bangkok fair report 60 india fair report 62 Tips on selling 63 Management 64 real life 65 calendar 66 soapbox NOVEMBER

LovePods by

Our front cover advertiser is Pandora, launching its 18-carat gold, colour-rich LovePods.

Jeweller / November 2008 5


EDITORIAL

www.gunnamattamedia.com.au

Who cares? I have often wondered whether anyone really cares about celebrity endorsement. I’m sceptical about most things, and certainly cynical about anything to do with so-called “celebrities”. It is nothing new for marketers to hitch their products to a famous person in the hope that they will increase sales. Celebrity endorsement has been around for a long time, though the marketers now uses the inane term “brand ambassador”. I am not sure what a brand ambassador does, other than receive free product and wear it. For this “privilege”, dim marketers pay millions of dollars! To me, there are two types of brand ambassadors: those that have a legitimate link to, or association with, the product; and those that don’t. The former has a raison d’être – the person was probably connected to the activity well before the brand came along. The latter is “employed” when a marketer needs a quick fix to get some publicity, often only short-term. There is usually no association between the brand and the ambassador and so the partnership has no longevity. Michael Jordan’s alliance with Nike is an ideal example of a successful endorsement – he was playing basketball long before Nike came along, and he would have still been playing and wearing basketball boots if Nike didn’t exist. Unsuccessful endorsements are much more common, because (I believe) there is no association between the person and the brand. I remember a particular Australian jewellery brand appointing a swimmer as an ambassador straight after the Sydney Olympics. It lasted all of 10 minutes – the swimmer had no relevance to the product. Regardless, I wonder how one can measure this success. Can an ambassador be deemed successful if no one can even connect them to the brand? I mean, the reason why you would use a brand ambassador as part of the marketing mix is to build brand association, to foster a relationship of trust with the consumer that creates brand loyalty and, ultimately, to motivate sales. If the consumer can’t connect the ambassador with the brand, the exercise serves no purpose. Recently we were given the chance to investigate the matter when Expertise Events advised they were undertaking a qualitative survey at the JAA Australian Jewellery Fair. We could add topics about larger industry issues to the survey of 150 retailers, so we decided to nominate six international ambassadors and ask retailers to match them with their brands. The results were appalling: 80 per cent of retailers could not associate the ambassador to the brand and six per cent actually named the wrong brand. Only 14 per cent of those surveyed nominated the correct brand and that result was somewhat inflated by the recognition of Tiger Woods to Tag Heuer – 33 per cent correctly associated these two. But the recognition of Nicole Kidman as Omega’s brand ambassador was disastrous at only seven per cent. (I hope Swatch isn’t paying too much!) Is that a reflection of poor industry knowledge? Or is it a case of who cares? If the world-famous Nicole Kidman achieved such a poor score among industry members – Longines performed slightly better with Andre Agassi at 14 per cent – then I wonder how would she rate with the consumer if people who sell watches don’t know. I’m sure the brands will have their answers for this – none of which will include “No one cares” – but I am confident that the use of celebrities as ambassadors is nothing more than lazy marketing. After all, there is very little creativity or marketing ingenuity involved in saying, “Hey, let’s pay Mr Doof Doof millions to be our brand ambassador.” Overseas consumer surveys have found more than half the respondents did not think celebrities use the products they endorsed and many believed that celebrities would endorse just about anything for money. So, next time a watch company tries to get you to stock their brand simply “because Mr Doof Doof wears it”, tell them to give you the money instead because no-one will remember… or care! t

6 Jeweller / November

2008

EDITORIAL Editor Coleby Nicholson Assistant Editor Bianca Mangion Sub Editor Nick Lord advertising National Account Manager Gary Collins Sales Representative Leonie Osmond ART & PRODUCTION Production Manager Maree Debrincat Graphic Design Maree Debrincat & Kristy Morcom Photographer Charlie Suriano ADMINISTRATION Accountant Paul Blewitt Subscriptions Manager Leonie Osmond Telephone 03 9696 7200 • Fax 03 9696 8313 Int+ 61 3 9696 7200 • Fax 61 3 9696 8313 Email ajed@gunnamattamedia.com.au

Jeweller is published by: Gunnamatta Media Pty Ltd Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, Victoria, 3205, AUSTRALIA. ABN 64 930 790 434 ACN 118 566 715 On the Internet Visit our site at: http://www.gunnamattamedia.com.au to read a profile of the magazine and view a full list of Gunnamatta Media’s publications. Email editorial staff at: ajed@gunnamattamedia.com.au Email advertising staff at: ajsales@gunnamattamedia.com.au HOW TO REACH US The editor of Jeweller wants to hear from you. Send letters, questions and comments to: The Editor Jeweller Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, Victoria, 3205, AUSTRALIA. or Email: ajed@gunnamattamedia.com.au Subscription inquiries For information on subscriptions or to notify us of a change in address contact us on Tel: 61 3 9696 7200. For back issues (subject to availability), fees may be charged. All material appearing in Jeweller is copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent. Contributions: Freelance contributions and submissions are welcomed by this magazine. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and transparencies. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publishers or the JAA. All statements made, although based on information believed to be reliable and accurate, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material.



CEO REPORT

Time is running out Over the past few months, we have experienced the greatest threat to the capitalist system since the Great Depression of the last century. The crisis in the United States has affected all world economies. For decades now, the consensus has been that a “free market” would take care of itself, that it needs no government intervention. Now all has changed. The US Government has been forced to come to the rescue of the financial system and there is no guarantee that these rescue efforts will succeed. The days of the “free market” are well and truly over, as are the days of allowing the financial sector to itself determine how it should be run. Governments will become more proactive to ensure that the excesses of the past are not repeated. While this will have a profound influence on the financial sector, it could well affect other industry sectors as well, like ours. The events overseas have already had a marked effect by drying up credit and putting pressure on consumer spending; however, there is another issue that should be debated: the regulation of the jewellery industry. The trade in Australia has enjoyed remarkable freedom in the way it operates. Anyone can open a jewellery store, start up a wholesale company and even operate a diamond-grading laboratory. No qualifications or special licences are required. The jewellery market has, by-and-large, been left to its own devices. While the vast majority of industry participants are honest and ethical, there are some who are taking advantage of this freedom: diamonds are over-graded; treatments to coloured stones are not disclosed; metals are under-carated; and the list goes on. To date, the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) has limited its attention to two-price advertising but, in the light of recent world events, the ACCC could well decide that the jewellery industry needs far more regulation and then proceed to prescribe the way the industry should run. A government-imposed arrangement is the last thing our industry needs. In order to prevent this from happening, it is absolutely vital for the industry associations – the Jewellers Association of Australia, Gemmological Association of Australia, National Council of Jewellery Valuers, Diamond Guild, Gold and Silversmiths Guild and the Diamond Dealers Club of Australia – to come together to formulate an industry code of practice and provide a mechanism for rigorously enforcing this code. This code would promote the highest standards of industry practice thereby ensuring consumer protection and preventing government intervention. Time has run out. We can no longer rely on the goodwill or lack of concern of the government. If we do not fix the industry on our own, the government will intervene t Ian Hadassin Chief Executive Officer

8 Jeweller / November

2008

CONTACT LIST JAA BOARD Peter Beever Director (Chair and VIC/TAS) Francesca Antonaglia Director (Vice Chair and QLD) Selwyn Brandt Director (Finance and NSW/ACT) Albert Bensimon Director (SA/NT) Michael Dieckmann Director (WA) Peter Sherman Director (Opal and Gemstone Sector Council) Peter Beck Director (Manufacturers Sector Council) Colin Pocklington Director (Retail Council)

NATIONAL OFFICE Ian Hadassin Chief Executive Officer Heather Williams Membership and Administration Executive Megan Young Marketing Executive

JAA ADDRESS Suite 33, Level 8, 99 York Street, Sydney NSW, 2000 Postal Address: Suite 33, Level 8, 99 York Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Telephone: 02 9262 2862 Fax: 02 9262 2541 Freecall: 1800 657 762 Email: info@jaa.com.au Website: www.jaa.com.au



JEWELLER NEWS

Watch ambassadors draw blank faces

Opal centre moves ahead

A study into luxury watch brand ambassadors at the JAA Australian ­Jewellery Fair in Sydney in September found that 86 per cent of ­respondents were unable to associate an ambassador with a particular brand. The report raises questions about the widespread practice of appointing celebrity ambassadors at luxury watch brands such as Tag Heuer, Rolex, Omega and Longines. The survey was conducted by independent research group Micromex Research and was and was commissioned by fair organiser Expertise Events as part of its qualitative research. The survey interviewed 150 retail visitors as they exited the fair on a wide range of issues including; the fair, the industry, the JAA and so on. Micromex asked each respondent to name the watch brand associated with sport stars Tiger Woods (Tag Heuer), Ian Thorpe (Omega), Andre Agassi (Longines), Lewis Hamilton (Tag Heuer), and movie stars Nicole Kidman (Omega) and Brad Pitt (Tag Heuer). Of the results, Micromex reported: “Eighty per cent of respondents were unable to associate an ambassador with a particular brand, while six per cent gave the incorrect brand. Only 14 per cent of respondents answered correctly.” Tiger Woods was the most heavily recognised with 33 per cent of respondents linking him correctly to Tag Heuer while Australia’s own Nicole Kidman received the lowest level of brand recognition with only seven per cent of respondents linking her correctly to Omega. Leading sporting and cinema identities can earn more than their salaries signing contracts of exclusivity with watch and apparel brands that are worth tens of millions of dollars. The survey results. Ambassador % of respondents who who % of respondents who % of respondents gave did not know the brand gave the correct brand the incorrect brand Tiger Woods Andre Agassi Brad Pitt Lewis Hamilton Ian Thorpe Nicole Kidman

59% 84% 78% 89% 81% 87%

33% 9% 16% 9% 11% 7%

8% 7% 6% 2% 7% 6%

Average

80%

14%

6%

Nicole Kidman scored the lowest level of brand recognition, with only 7 per cent of respondents linking her to watch brand Omega.

10 Jeweller / November 2008

Colin Pocklington presents Nationwide Retailer of the Year Richard Barwik of ­Heirloom Jewellers his award.

Buying groups announce award members Leading buying groups Showcase and Nationwide Jewellers have respectively gathered to celebrate their members’ achievements. Showcase Jewellers awarded its member and supplier of the year at a gala presentation at Star City Casino in September. Rick Stearns of Stearns ­Showcase Jewellers in ­Bendigo, Victoria won the Retailer of the Year, while the ­Supplier of the Year was Mark McAskill. For the first time, Showcase introduced state winners also; an award that will continue biennially. The 2008 Showcase Jewellers State Retailers of the Year were Graeme Burrows Jewellers (VIC); Stapleton Jewellers (NSW); Greg Neill Jewellers (QLD); Clarke the Jeweller (SA/NT); Diamond World (TAS); and Raymond May Showcase Jewellers (WA). To win the award, members are judged upon various criteria including accounting performance, participation at conferences and training seminars, and performance in mystery shopper tests. Held at the Tattersalls Club in Sydney, with special guests Gabi Tolkowsky, JAA CEO Ian Hadassin and Diamonds International award winner Rex Steele Merten, ­Nationwide Jewellers acknowledged Richard and Renata Barwik of ­Heirloom Jewellers, NSW and Stephen and Diana Brown of Ron Brown Jewellers, Timaru, as the Australian and New Zealand ­members of the Year respectively. Citizen Watches NZ won ­Nationwide’s NZ Supplier of the Year, while Australian Supplier of the Year was The Jewellery Centre.

Development approval has been granted for a centre dedicated to displaying, researching and promoting Australia’s national gemstone, the opal, with the project expected to reach construction certificate stage in 2009. According to a press release from the developers, “The Australian Opal Centre at Lightning Ridge will be a world renowned, financially and environmentally sustainable, high security facility to house Australia’s most significant public collection of opal and opalised fossils.” Internationally-renowned architects Glenn Murcutt and Wendy Lewin are designing the centre and its permanent exhibitions in conjunction with design firm Freeman Ryan, and the two-storey,

Jewel-like relic: 110-million-year-old opalised tooth of a dinosaur or perhaps a toothed bird, from the collection of the Australian Opal Centre.

100-metre long building will be ­constructed underground on the historic Three Mile opal field. Estimated cost of construction is $21.6 million. A budget and fundraising strategy for the centre is being finalised. A development application for the centre’s 3.1-hectare site was approved on July 15, enabling Lightning Ridge Opal and Fossil Centre Inc. (LROFC) to proceed towards the fundraising and construction phases. In the remaining months of 2008 the group says it is implementing a fundraising program, continuing to build its collections and its programs of ­curation, research, education, marketing and community engagement, re-opening its renovated showroom and preparing for construction of the centre.


JAA fair scores straight ‘A’s

Autore

First-ever pearl forum announced The Dubai Pearl Exchange, a subsidiary of the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC), has announced plans to host the inaugural World Pearl Forum from February 17-19, 2009. Aiming to bring together the global pearl sector and address ways to grow the worldwide ­market for pearl jewellery, the event is part of DMCC’s continuing effort to revitalise the global pearl trade, and build on Dubai’s wellestablished status as the pearl centre of the Gulf. “There is currently an ­unprecedented opportunity for Dubai to take a leadership role in shaping the global pearl sector, while at the same time ­underscoring Dubai’s heritage as the traditional pearl capital of the world,” Sultan Ahmed Bin Sulayem, chairman of Dubai World, said in a statement. “Globally, pearls have witnessed a recent resurgence and Dubai needs to leverage this ­development to drive international interest in pearl trading.” Over 200 leading international pearl specialists will participate in the upcoming forum. DMCC chairman Ahmed Bin Sulayem hopes the forum will facilitate an ongoing platform for worldwide debate on how to further develop global pearl sector: “The Dubai Pearl Exchange plans to unite the industry by highlighting areas of opportunity as well as identifying integrated programmes that will involve all stakeholders of the global pearl trade.”

The JAA Australian Jewellery Fair has received top marks in an ­independent survey conducted at the event, with 91 per cent of ­respondents expressing their satisfaction with the show. The survey was completed by independent research group Micromex Research and was commissioned by fair organiser Expertise Events. The report has shown visitors found the event a success with only two per cent of respondents saying they would not return in 2009. Furthermore, the fair performed particularly well across four of its core objectives: to place orders; to keep abreast of industry trends; to see ­existing suppliers; and, networking. In rating their overall satisfaction with the fair on a scale of one to five, the 150 respondents reported a mean score of 4.4 (out of five), a rating significantly higher than the EEAA Trade Show Industry Benchmark 2007 of 4.1, according to the report. High on the list of importance for visitors was looking for new or ­alternative suppliers. Over 33 per cent said “very important’ and 40.7 per cent said “important”. “Exhibitors should take particular note of these findings. At all of our previous fair presentations, and in our support material, we have always stressed the importance of having new products,” Expertise Events ­managing director, Gary Fitz-Roy commented. “During our exhibitor presentation this year we also highlighted that the fair was a catalyst to ensure new ranges and support material was timely and on display at the fair. Of major significance in this research is the high rating of visitors ­looking for ‘new or alternative suppliers’. This demonstrates that the old days of loyalty are gone – retailers now want an edge.” In promising news for exhibitors, 97 per cent of those surveyed also said they were “likely” or “very likely” to make contact with an exhibitor following the fair. Other key findings included the following: • The average time spent viewing exhibits was 6.5 hours, a figure that ­exceeds the EEAA Trade Show Industry benchmark for 2007 of 5.1 hours. • Only 10 per cent of respondents used the Match ‘n’ Meet service to make an appointment with buyers/exhibitors during the fair. • 72 per cent of respondents felt there were no products or companies missing from the fair. The next JAA fair takes place in Brisbane in on March 15-16 2009.

ARA welcomes rate cut The Australian Retailers ­Association (ARA) has welcomed the Reserve Bank of Australia’s (RBA) decision to cut the cash rate by one percentage point, ­describing it as “long awaited”. Despite a decision by the big four Australian banks to pass on just 80 per cent of the rate cut, ARA Executive Director Richard Evans said that the second cut in two months was great news for consumers and that its effects should flow through the economy immediately with consumer ­sentiment to turn in time for the 2008 Christmas season.

Timely charm released Timepiece supplier C ­ lassique Watches has released a bead watch, designed to fit all screw-on charm bracelets. Set in sterling silver, the Time Forbids watch bead has embraced the latest charm jewellery craze. “Bead bracelets have become widely popular,” said Christine ­Kardashian, director, Dash PR – the company promoting Classique. “Classique recognises this and has identified a gap in the market.”

 According to Kardashian, the response since the launch of the bead watch at the recent JAA Australian Jewellery Fair Sydney has been very positive. With mineral crystal glass, Swiss design movement, waterresistance up to 30 metres and a five-year battery life, the watch bead comes with white, blue, pink or white mother of pearl dial.

Jeweller / November 2008 11


JEWELLER NEWS

New home for Melbourne lab Melbourne-based Bauer Gemmological Labs has a new home at 343 ­Collins Street, Melbourne. To celebrate, BGL director Ronnie Bauer hosted a “lab warming” party on Friday ­September 19 where guests enjoyed hors d’oeuvres and champagne. JAA president Peter Beever, GAA federal president Grant Hamid, GAA state president Kathryn Kovacs, diamond merchants and industry ­colleagues were all in attendance, with Hammid making a welcoming speech discussing the importance of the facility for the industry. “The night was a tremendous success,” said Bauer. “I am touched by how many of the industry came to support us. Everybody mingled and was impressed with our facilities.” Complimentary show bags containing a bottle of champagne and ­various diamond-grading gifts were given to each attendee. Tickets to Wicked the Musical and overnight accommodation for two at the Sofitel in Melbourne were also up for grabs for one lucky guest. Belinda Bennett from Affiliated Importers took home the prize. Bauer owns the new lab premises – the old home of BGL was rented. The new lab is also much bigger, with Bauer also buying the suite next door, facilitating for future expansion. “We needed the additional area because the industry has supported us so much. We now have a private room for people to drop-off and pick-up their stones,” Bauer said. “We were also able to double the size of a dark room so that two diamond graders can work side by side. Thanks to that, we have had to buy a second colour grading light box and a Sarin machine which can laser and map diamonds. In the old lab when the Sarin was lasering we could produce certificates which slowed down our entire operation. We now have one dedicated lasering machine and a Sarin we use for producing our certificates. Also we now have a glass wall so that if a client wishes to observe what we are doing with their stone they can watch the whole process.” The new lab also boasts a state of the art HRD stereo microscope. “This enables us to confidently call a diamond internally flawless,” Bauer said. “We have also expanded our range of products and launched a new product called The Diamond Report. This is an A6-sized report which is laminated and has security features built into it.” Bauer hopes to become a CIBJO registered laboratory by the end of the year.

Ronnie and the team celebrate the opening of their new lab.

12 Jeweller / November 2008

A jeweller tries-out the new ring design template.

Ring template to save hours A four-time winner of the Diamonds International awards has released a template to aid jewellers in ring design. Rex Steele-Merten developed the concept of the template while training jewellers in design and drawing and then ­road-tested it during a ­presentation for ­Nationwide Jewellers members called “Quick Sketching for J­ewellers”. The results, according to ­Steele-Merten, were impressive: “The templates have helped the jewellers achieve a significantly higher standard of drawing, and in a shorter time.” Quick Sketching for Jewellers will be repeated at the Nationwide Jewellers Conference at Alice Springs in June 2009. For further information contact 02 9983 9111.

Giant diamond uncovered Lesotho miners have discovered a 478-carat rough diamond. The stone came from the ­Letseng mine and, according to mine co-owner Gem Diamonds, is the 20th-largest ever found. The diamond has the potential to yield a 150-carat cut stone, and could sell for tens of millions of dollars, according to the company. “Preliminary examination of this remarkable diamond indicates it will yield a record-breaking polished stone of the very best colour and clarity,” said Gem Diamonds CEO Clifford Elphick. This would make it bigger than the 105-carat, round-cut Koh-i-Noor diamond, which forms part of the British Crown Jewels.

The Kaiserman Showroom welcomes new entrants to its annual competition.

Kaiserman Prize calls for entries Kaiserman Jewellers, the creator of the annual Kaiserman Prize, has called for entries for its 2009 competition. With a cash value of some $7,500, the Kaiserman Prize is designed to “launch the careers of talented new jewellers”, according to the company, and is open to those c­ urrently enrolled in a formal gold/silversmithing or related jewellery course at a recognised tertiary institution. Stage one entries of a 3D d ­ rawing must be in by November 6, 2008 and winners will receive studio space, ­materials, tools and on-going ­support until the launch of their first ­professional exhibition. For further details and an entry form, visit www.kaiserman.com.au. The 2008 Kaiserman Prize winners – Lucinda Knight, Aimee Crebbin and John T – are to have their collections exhibited at the Kaiserman showroom, 586 Chapel Street, South Yarra, from November 1, 2008.

Australian s ­ hoppers not worried Australian consumers are not s­ o concerned about the e ­ conomic climate, ­according to a recent survey. The Foundry Customer Checkup Study, conducted by The Australian ­Centre for Retail Studies at Monash, found the key issue was a sense of ­uncertainty about what’s in store for 2009. The survey also found c­ ustomers are making fewer impulse buys and researching the best deals, according to a report in Inside Retailing. The results also show that the outlook for retailers is not as negative as has been reported: “Customers are more discerning and will work harder on finding just the right product,” read a statement from the ­report. “But they are still willing to shop.”


Australian watch magazine closes Pol Publishing, the Sydney-based publisher of Australian watch magazine Luxe, has been placed into voluntary administration, ­putting the magazine at risk. The bad news extends to the group’s other subsidiaries, Pol Equipment, Pol Interactive, Pol Contract Publications and Hovea Holdings, with ANZ ­appointing Grant Thornton-appointed external administrators and ­accounting firm PPB as receiver and manager. Pol Equipment distributed watch brands Bell & Ross, Chrono Swiss, Corum, Dubey & Schaldenband and Manometro. “The collapse comes after Pol Publishing recently lost the rights to publish three magazines on behalf of shopping centre owner Colonial First State Property Management,” The Australian reported. “The magazines, The Chase, Fashion Capital and QP, had a ­combined circulation of 210,000 and are now being handled by Fairfax Media. Also placed into administration was Berman’s Mandarina Duck, which has the exclusive local rights to distribute the Italian luxury goods brand.” Grant Thornton director Said Jahani said that the company’s ­operations were shut down because there were no funds to operate. He advised that a full investigation was underway and it had already been discovered that the magazine mastheads were not owned by any of the companies placed into administration or receivership. Asked whether Pol director Peter Berman owned the magazine mastheads he said, “We are still investigating that matter.” Jahani added he was aware that previous Berman companies had been placed into administration. The Australian also reported, “Rumour has it that ANZ also has Berman’s home in the NSW Southern Highlands in its sights. A Bowral real ­estate agent listed the property for sale at $5.75 million.” It is believed at least one watch and jewellery supplier is interested in ensuring some of the watch brands continue to be distributed in Australia, and has made contact with the principal companies.

GAA to launch training survey The Art Gallery of New South Wales gets branded for the Pandora launch party.

LovePods dazzle at Pandora launch A group of selected Pandora stockists scored rides to the company’s ­Sydney headquarters in Hummer limousines in October, as part of the launch of the brand’s new collection. Pandora hosted representatives from 29 retailer stores for an ­information day on its new LovePods collection at its head office on October 8. Most of the retailers were picked up by Stretch Hummer – some for a morning session and some for an afternoon meeting. The lucky retail partners enjoyed on-board bar and disco lights on their way to the Pandora offices. Once there, retailers explored the full 18-carat gold and coloured-stone jewellery collection of combinable rings, earrings and necklaces – picking pieces up and trying them together. The Pandora marketing team talked about advertising campaigns and supporting editorial that will feature LovePods in key fashion ­magazines such as Madison, Marie Claire, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Pandora’s retail partners then had a tour of the offices to meet the Pandora team and had the chance to order LovePods packs. Clearly impressed with the new collection, over two thirds of the ­retailers placed an order on the day and more committed to ordering the range in the future, according to Pandora PR coordinator Eve Hanks: “We were delighted by the response because it was so positive – many of our retail partners both liked the range and commented that they thought it would be popular with their customers,” she said. Pandora hosted a launch party at the Art Gallery of New South Wales the night before, with over 180 people in attendance. Denmark-based LovePods designers Mads Trolle and Lee Antony Gray were also present on the evening. The pair, who have been working ­together for over eight years at Ole Lynggaard and Georg Jensen, told guests about how the collection draws heavily from nature: “The smooth, delicate, flowing, beautiful and natural shapes seen in, for example seed pods, gave us the desire to play with the possibilities of combining these shapes and interpreting them in such a way that they could be shaped into ­jewellery,” Gray said. Donned in LovePods jewellery, Channel Nine sports reporter Stephanie Brantz was MC for the evening, while Play School star Monica Trapaga – known in Sydney as a popular jazz singer – sang jazz standards such as ­Diamonds are Girls Best Friend, accompanied by her pianist. The collection allows for rings earrings and necklaces to be fused with one another, enabling the wearer to create a unique ensemble of stones including diamond, amethyst, red topaz, black spinel, citrine, peridot and black quartz.

The Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) has announced plans to conduct a country-wide survey designed to help major industry bodies determine the education and training needs of members now and into the future. The National Jewellery and Gemstone Industry Survey has been developed with the support and input of other members of the Australian Jewellery and Gemstone Industry Council ­including the ­Jewellers Association of Australia, National Council of Jewellery ­Valuers, Diamond Guild of ­Australia, Gold and Silversmiths Guild and the National Opal Miners Association. “The principal aim of the survey is to establish the current and future educational requirements of the industry,” said the GAA in a ­release. “It is the belief of all the bodies involved that better training and education of the industry will lead to a higher degree of professionalism and consumer trust. As such, responses from the survey will be used to improve and develop courses that are more relevant to the needs of business.” All industry participants are invited to have a say, and it is not necessary to be a member of any of the bodies involved in the survey, according to the GAA. As an incentive, participants who fully complete the detailed survey will also be entered into a draw to win prizes donated by leading industry suppliers i­ncluding $1,000 accounts at various gemstone and jewellery suppliers, petrol vouchers and GAA courses. To view the survey online, visit www.gem.org.au.

Jeweller / November 2008 13


BULLETIN

chandelier lights-up Emmys A chandelier made from over 3,300 diamonds and worth an estimated $US10 million adorned the green room at this year’s Emmy Awards. According to a report in National Jeweler, the Hearts on Fire (HOF)-designed piece was handmade in Boston by a team led by designer Katherine Rosenberg Pineau. It totals more than 1,000 carats, is plated with platinum and ­consists of a series of diamond strands i­lluminated by fibre optics.

Green bands A US-based ring manufacturer is now fashioning its engagement and wedding bands from 100 per cent-recycled precious metals. The Danforth Diamond Company has partnered with jewellery manufacturer Hoover and Strong to produce the Harmony Recycled Precious Metals brand of recycled platinum and palladium engagement and wedding rings. Taking unwanted or damaged jewellery, shavings and metal lost during the jewellery manufacture and crafting processes, and scrap precious metals from industrial uses, the company melts down the metals and then reuses them. India still loves gold Indian consumers have remained undeterred by price gains in gold during September when the metal posted its biggest weekly gain in a decade, climbing 13 per cent to 864.70 dollars an ounce as mounting credit turmoil pushed investors into safe haven assets. India remains the world’s biggest gold consumer, importing 800 tones a year on average – around 30 per cent of global demand. Sustaining the market may be the beginning of the Indian ­wedding season. India buys more gold during marriage and festival seasons, with Indian brides

14 Jeweller / November 2008

“The HOF diamond chandelier is the most ­ xtravagant, brilliant, glamorous diamond e ­chandelier ever made,” Pineau said. “You can’t imagine when it is illuminated how spectacular it is.” The lighting fixture hung in the centre of the 625-square-foot room, located offstage at LA’s Nokia Theatre and accessible only by Emmy nominees and presenters. It was for sale ­following the show; however, no reports of a buyer have emerged t

t­ raditionally adorned in heavy gold jewellery – seen as a family heirloom and a means of personal security. With around 10 million marriages a year, wedding-related demand is huge, especially between October and January. Christie’s offers giant diamonds A pair of polished diamonds cut from the 316.15-carat Ponahalo diamond was the highpoint of Christie’s October auction. According to a report in National Jeweler, Christie’s Jewels: the New York Sale featured diamonds of 102.11 carats and 70.87 carats, both cut from the Ponahalo diamond. The Ponahalo diamond came out of De Beers’ Venetian mine in 2005, and is the largest stone ever to emerge from that mine. Jonathan Oppenheimer of De Beers named the diamond, which means “vision” in Sotho, the tribal language spoken by the Venda tribe in the area of South Africa where the stone was mined. Auction results were not ­available at the time of print. Diamonds from outer space Diamonds may have started life as primitive molecules from outer space, according to a group of ­German scientists.

Research being conducted by Andrei Sommer, Dan Zhu, and Hans-Joerg Fecht at the ­University of Ulm intends to find that diamonds, as crystallised carbon, provided a platform for genesis by forming layers of water on the surface of Earth billions of years ago. According to the researchers, the resulting reaction may have been sufficient enough to generate more complex organic molecules that eventually gave rise to life. The research was inconclusive at the time of print. Fraudster steals £400,000 in jewels A London woman has posed as a glamorous French socialite to steal hundreds of thousands of pounds worth of jewellery and antiques from Europe’s leading auction houses. A court heard 52-year-old Shahra Marsh allegedly posed as an expert to obtain a stash worth £400,000 – all secured using cheques that later bounced. A large jewellery order from Giafferi, including a sapphire and diamond ring, diamond broach, a diamond and emerald necklace, a gold and diamond bracelet and a gold Caesar pendant were among the stolen items. Marsh was fluent in French and fooled staff into believing she was their “usual type of affluent

client” who could afford the most ­expensive lots on offer, Southwark Crown Court heard. In the month it took the money to clear, Marsh convinced the firms to send her the goods, taking ­ advantage of the trust she had built up with the seller, it was claimed. Marsh was caught in February 2008. No sentencing information was available at the time of print. Platinum stops aging A Swiss beauty company has ­developed an age-fighting ­moisturiser that contains platinum. La Prairie’s Cellular Cream Platinum Rare officially debuted in Los Angeles over Emmy weekend, at the Platinum Guild International Gifting Suite in Beverly Hills, at a cost of $US1,000 a tub. The product is not being ­advertised at all. Instead, the company is distributing the cream among stars, stylists, beauty ­editors and makeup artists – hoping word of mouth will work its magic. “At $1,000, this product is not for everybody,” the company’s ­publicist explained. “It’s really for people for whom skin care is a ­major priority, like actors, ­presenters and so on.” While platinum’s restorative properties are well-known, this is the first time the metal has been incorporated into a beauty product.



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CUTS

Shiny and new: The Radiant cut The radiant was the first rectangular or square cut to have a complete brilliant facet pattern applied to both the crown and pavilion. GARRY HOLLOWAY, KATE WYATT AND KATHERINE KOVACS, GAA report. On GIA grading reports the radiant is given the unfortunate name of the “cut-cornered rectangular (or square) modified brilliant”. Following its patented development in 1976 by Henry Grossbard, it became seen as the forerunner of the modern branded diamond. Until about 10 years ago, the preferred width-to-length proportion of 1.5 was in keeping with the proportions of an emerald cut, or the rectangular shape it was originally developed for. Today, the radiant cut is more popular in a squarer shape, with the width to length ratio most commonly 1.2-1.3 or even as low as 1.05 (almost square). The radiant’s original, patented design had 55 facets: 25 on the crown and 30 on the pavilion – plus or minus a culet – as illustrated. The cut corners help minimise chipping and maximise yield. They are also found with

more facets and different patterns on the pavilion. Like cushion cuts, there are two main types of faceting arrangements: the brilliant and the “crushed-ice” style. The crushedice has less contrast, keeping the colour appearance pure and is also very effective at deepening the colour of fancy-coloured diamonds, due to increased average ray lengths – other shapes tend to have lighter colour areas throughout the stone. It is said that the use of a radiant cut can lift a fancycoloured diamond by as much as a full grade – from fancy to fancy intense, for example. Rectangular-shaped radiant-cut stones are more likely than their square counterparts to have the “bow-tie” effect due to their elongated shape. In order to appear as brilliant as a square of similar size, the rectangular shape should also have a greater depth percentage

because the depth percentage of fancy shapes is calculated as depth by width, while depth percentage of rounds is depth by average diameter. As a consequence, longer stones tend to have a larger spread or surface area for a given depth percentage. Because of all the different proportion variables, there are no strict guidelines for table and depth percentages but, as a general rule, look for a table between 55 and 65 per cent and a depth between 59 and 66 per cent. The decision to purchase a radiant cut should never just be based on its proportions alone; brilliance and the overall beauty of the stone also play their part. Light performance tools like the AGS ASET scope can also be useful. As mentioned earlier, radiants tend to deepen colour so it is not surprising that some of the most well-known radiant cut diamonds

are fancy coloured. The Peacock diamond – named after Chicago owner CD Peacock – is a magnificent example, a rare, internally flawless, fancy intense yellow that measures 15.62mm × 14.49mm × 9.37mm and weighs 20.65 carats. It’s set in a platinum and 18-carat gold ring, and flanked by two white trillion diamonds. Smaller, but richer in infamy and price is the 6.1-carat, pink, radiantcut diamond given by Ben Affleck to Jennifer Lopez, which reportedly cost $US1.2 million. The stone’s rare colour coupled with its size make this ring one of the most famous modern celebrity engagement rings. When the engagement was broken, Affleck got the ring back and re-sold it through jeweller Harry Winston – the stone was recut and resubmitted to GIA after the sale. It received a better colour grade, which raised many questions about GIA’s grading t

Jeweller / November 2008 17


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{ White metals }

Iron Clay

Bulova from Hagemeyer Lifestyle Brands

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Consumers are always looking for something different than previous generations and white metals are a great alternative. In wedding rings, ladies’ platinum and white gold diamond sets are always popular, as are men’s white gold wedding ring styles.” Craig Symons, managing director of Breuning and Oliva distributor Osjag, says he predicted white metals would be the next big thing in about 2000. “Though the look was coming out of Europe, it wasn’t quite there at that stage,” he says, but the prediction became true. “These days, towards the top end of the market, it is 70:30 white to yellow and, at the low end, the same in reverse,” Symons adds. “The top end wants diamond-set jewellery and tends to believe diamonds look better in white gold. We’ve certainly got over the stigma of white gold seeming to look like silver to the consumer.” About 95 per cent of engagement rings would have been white gold in the last four years, estimates Russian-born designer Simon Kushnir, who runs Melbourne manufacturer Simon Prestige Jewellery. “I think people like the look because they believe it enhances the colour of the stone. When you put a diamond

22 Jeweller / November 2008

“The top end tends to believe diamonds look better in white gold. We’ve certainly got over the stigma of white gold seeming to look like silver.” Craig Symons, managing director, Osjag.

into white gold, it makes it look bigger.” Kushnir also does platinum by special order, but says white gold is largely preferred: “For those who can afford it, platinum is more durable and longer lasting and keeps its colour but, of course, it’s much more expensive, so not a lot of people go for it.” Ilhan Demirel, director of Wollongong wedding ring supplier Infinity Rings, echoes this: “We get a lot of enquiries for platinum, but price

can be an issue.” Barry Sadlier, the head metallurgist at Sydney custom casting service Palloys, says platinum demand is growing though: “I think more and more people are looking at the prospect of platinum versus 18-carat white gold. It’s definitely on the increase,” he says. “In Japan and China, it’s the number one metal.” Still, Sadlier admits it can be almost triple the price of 18-carat white gold – a fact he attributes to its heavy use in other industries: “The demand has exceeded the supply for awhile. It’s largely an industrial metal and the motor industry was chewing up a fair bit of platinum,


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so it was difficult to get hold of. Now, the US car industry is slowing down and the metal price is also coming down.” Brisbane jewellery manufacturer Marion Schweitzer has also taken note: “Platinum prices have dropped by at least 20 or 30 per cent in the last few months. So, at the moment, I’m doing an above normal number of platinum rings. In March this year, the price was really high, but it has been dropping gradually.” (Though, still, of course, being more expensive than gold.) Schweitzer also uses white gold and has had increased enquiries for palladium too: “The white metals produced today are of a much better quality – closer to platinum. The white look remains quite popular and trendy. Seventy per cent of my designs are in white metal.” White gold is being used with diverse colour combinations, but Osjag’s Symons says one strong look is coming to the fore. “There has been the advent of white with rose gold in the last two years,” he says. Symons has also noticed a trend in 3D-style textured finishes on the metal. “There’s a trend that’s becoming popular, originating from Europe. It’s having a 3D textured finish on the surface, with polished peaks and valleys in a matte finish.” Think lightning bolt-style, engraved prints on cufflinks and more. In stones, the white gold and diamond minimalism look remains strong, though some are choosing to team the metal with a kaleidoscope of hues. Simon Prestige Jewellery opts for Colombian emeralds, Burmese rubies and Ceylon sapphires, while Sydney jewellery supplier Jenique teams white gold with precious and semi-precious coloured stones, often using one or two stones as centrepieces, accented with diamonds. Also riding this trend is silver, according to Janine McLennan, the co-director of Brisbane wholesaler Mountain Creek Jewellery. “You can coordinate the gemstones in our silver pieces with your outfits, including amethyst, garnet and blue topaz,” she says. Mountain Creek has made a major move away from gold to sterling silver in

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recent times. “About three or four years ago, we were still doing quite a bit of gold, but around that time the price of gold started going up,” McLennan explains. “It went up so much, it made silver a lot more popular. We’ve found people want more than just one-off pieces today. They want to be able to afford Osjag different accessories to go with different outfits and to keep up with the trends, while still having an up-market look.” The brand replicates antique-style matching jewellery sets, comprising earrings, rings and necklaces, usually found in white gold and diamonds, sterling silver and cubic zirconia. “We’re finding the jewellers who haven’t embraced silver are really stuck behind,” McLennan says. “Just about everyone – any age group – can wear silver; it is not a harsh, brash look. You can go big and bold if you want to or just wear a dainty pair of earrings.” Silver is also a favourite with Osjag. “As far as white metals go, silver is here to stay,” he says. “The silver that’s coming out today is also of a higher quality. And, everything that you see happening in gold is happening in silver as well.”

“people want to be able to afford different accessories to go with different outfits and to keep up with the trends, while having an up-market look.” Janine McLennan, co-director, Mountain Creek Jewellery.

Peter W Beck




Peter W Beck

Through Osjag, Breuning has just released a branded silver collection onto the Australian market, which i­ncludes sets in earrings, rings and necklaces, and individual bracelets, bangles and necklaces. Styles normally seen in gold, ­including textured finishes and colour combinations, are being ­translated across, such as silver with rose gold or rhodium plating. Stainless steel is also doing well as a more affordable white metal, ­according to Darren Roberts, director of Sydney men’s jewellery and cufflinks wholesaler Cudworth Enterprises: “With our stainless steel cufflinks, we’re adding a lot of coloured fibreglass for the summer, such as ­aquamarine and pink,” he says. “I like to look six to eight months ahead at the upcoming colours for ties and shirts and use the highlight colours in our range.” The brand is also using mother of pearl and onyx and silver. Another champion for stainless steel is Duraflex Group Australia, which distributes steel brand Bonnard, offering rings, necklets, p ­ endants, bracelets, cufflinks and earrings. “I first saw s­ tainless steel pieces 10 years ago, but the designs weren’t so a ­ ppealing,” says sales director Rod Kearns. “Five years later, it had evolved. While we wouldn’t have thought of stainless steel as a viable market in the past – people are more concerned with the look today than the perceived value of a metal.” More affordable pricing also opens up stainless steel to the youth market, says Kearns: “Young people can enter the jewellery-wearing market at a relatively low price and they are often more open to ­contemporary, cutting-edge looks.” Men’s jewellery remains the ­mainstay for steel, with p ­ opular styles including large clip or c­ uff-style bangles – blending ­polished and satin finishes – militarystyle dog-tag pendants on ball chains, and crucifix neck pendants. As well, Kearns says: “Carbon fibre has become very popular as an inlay in necklaces, bracelets and rings, providing a chequered look. They’re also using it in a lot of cars these days and ­high-tech, sporty material.” While steel has been slower in the women’s market, Bonnard is looking to rectify this, bringing

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R

out a new range of lightweight, heart-shaped designs in the metal. And, in the past, who would have thought stainless steel would be teamed with diamonds? But it’s being done. Bonnard sets diamonds against polished stainless steel – darkened with ion plating. “You only need a single stone to make a statement. The black/steel combination really highlights the diamond,” Kearns says. Titanium – once mostly used in watches – is now also using diamonds in its jewellery, ­according to John Rose, director of w ­ holesaler Silvercove Australia, which distributes brands like Colibiri of London. “Titanium is popular in men’s jewellery because of its masculine look,” Rose says. “The Colibiri of London men’s range has a collection setting diamonds in black titanium.” Versatility, choice and price are the driving ­factors behind a global love of white metal.

Colibri from Silvercove

Whether it’s a gent looking for cufflinks, a bride scouring for the perfect engagement ring or a career woman wanting to spoil herself with a new pair of earrings, there are plenty of styles, designs – and price tags – on offer. And the romance, it seems, is continuing t

The white metal family guide to the rights and wrongs of white WHITE GOLD White gold is an alloy of gold and at least one other metal, such as nickel or palladium. Palladium-gold is more expensive than nickel-gold, but is naturally hypoallergenic and holds its colour better. Pros: white gold suits many people’s skin tones and is easy for jewellers to work with, being both durable and scratch-resistant. Cons: while some higher-quality white gold alloys retain sparkle, most need to be coated with a thin layer of rhodium. Unfortunately, the effect doesn’t last. Regular rhodium plating is needed to preserve a consistent tone, usually every 12 to 18 months.

PLATINUM Platinum is more precious than gold – and usually more than twice the price. Its “wear-and-tarnish” resistance makes it well suited for jewellery. PROS: when pure, the metal appears greyishwhite and firm. It is one of the world’s strongest metals to work with. CONS: platinum’s strength can also mean it is ­difficult to work with, so it is often confined to smaller pieces, such as rings. Unlike white gold, platinum is also used in an almost pure form – at about 95 per cent. While this makes it an elite metal, it is also significantly more expensive for the consumer.

PALLADIUM The sister metal of platinum is naturally white, so does not require rhodium plating. It is slightly whiter, much lighter – though harder – than platinum. PROS: more expensive than silver or nickel as an alloy, but less expensive than pure platinum – and doesn’t tarnish. CONS: may be a pleasing light grey, but doesn’t take a high polish the way platinum does and can have a tendency to become dull over time.

TITANIUM Watchmakers have long appreciated titanium for

its durability, resistance to dents and corrosion, and lightweight feel. Jewellers are also now taking note. PROS: can be brushed to a matte finish or highly polished. It is also the only the white metal that can be anodised to create eye-catching colours. Its inertness also makes it a good choice for those with allergies. CONS: Despite being adaptable, it can still be a difficult metal to work with. For example, it can’t be used to make prong settings.

SILVER Silver is a highly ductile and malleable metal. It has a bright white metallic lustre, which can be highly polished. PROS: malleable form allows for endless options in design. Its look and price point also combine to attract customers. CONS: inclined to tarnish, though new advances are combating the problem, like rhodium plating and anti-tarnishing products. It also does not have the hardness of many of the other metals, so is not always advised for everyday use.

STAINLESS STEEL The light grey metal’s resistance to corrosion and staining, affordability and low maintenance needs appeal to jewellery lovers. Plus, it’s a low-cost alternative to titanium. PROS: a sleek, modern look and durability that has enamoured the men’s market. Plus, it doesn’t tarnish or rust and is hypoallergenic. CONS: female customers are only catching onto the metal’s charm – some though will always prefer the whiter look and femininity of the other metals.

TUNGSTEN-CARBIDE This lustrous dark metal is an emerging jewellery material, particularly being used in men’s wedding bands. It can be buffed to a mirror finish and is highly resistant to scratches and scuffs t


{ White metals } Overseas and celebrity trends how os styles wash-up on aussie shores Overseas jewellery trade shows and red carpet looks have an influence on what’s being worn here. And, there’s a myriad of styles filtering through from afar. Tiffany and Co. remains the overseas brand consumers wish to emulate for engagement rings, according to Brisbane jewellery supplier Marion Schweitzer: “Tiffany and Co seems to be the leader with their designs and have had a real influence with their traditional styles.” Clicking onto its website, the images of engagement rings that flash up are signature Tiffany – think Lucida and Etoile cuts – and, for white metal lovers, white gold and platinum are favourite at the jeweller to the stars. Celebrity brides are reflecting this trend when tying the knot – US pop singer Ashlee Simpson’s antique Asscher-cut diamond ring from Pete Wentz and fellow pop queen Mariah Carey’s 15-carat diamond cluster from rapper Nick Cannon were both set in white metal. And,

celebrity imitations are quick to spring up on websites, such as hollywoodstyle.com.au and emitations.com, though using cheaper materials. Another celebrity style filtering through to the consumer is a wristful of silver bracelets. Sydney jewellery supplier Monique Parkinson, who distributes silver brand Muru, is employing the look: “We’re doing beaded bracelets in sterling silver, with 10 to 15 being able to be worn together at a time – some with charms.” Then there’s Bling Strings, Muru’s rhinestone-studded bra straps – also using a nickel-free base metal. Recent increases in the price of white gold and platinum have priced some consumers right out of the market, and jewellers scrambling for alternatives are filling the gap with palladium. “The Palladium Alliance International, the ­industry proponent of the white metal, estimates that more than 25 jewellery companies have begun using palladium in the fine fashion jewellery

Jewelry

category, in addition to bridal,” US magazine Modern Jeweler reported in a recent issue. Still, Barry Sadlier, head metallurgist at Sydney custom casting service Palloys, says more consumer education is needed before the trend is fully felt here: “Palladium certainly got a mention when gold or platinum prices went up and people were looking for an alternative. But, unless there’s a marketing exercise done by the retail trade, consumers don’t understand. “Palladium is a lot lighter,” Sadlier adds, “and, for ­consumers, the thinking is ‘If it’s heavy, it must be good’, as is the case for platinum.” t

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JAA

Jewellery Design Awards

2008 Winner Grand Prix Award, Roy ­Warfold Trophy Jeweller of the Year and Coloured Gemstone Award Thomas Meihofer and Stacey Illman Age: 47 and 31 respectively Employer/business: Thomas Meihofer Jewellery Design Industry experience: Swiss born, Thomas came to Australia to work as a jeweller in 1989 and ­established his business as an independent designer and ­manufacturer of jewellery in 1992. In 2003 Thomas established his own jewellery outlet, with his partner Wendy, under his own name in Subiaco. Stacey worked as a jeweller at Solid Gold for six years before working for Thomas since 2000. Stacey is the workshop manager at Thomas Meihofer Jewellery Design. She has a background in classical

34 Jeweller / November 2008

The JAA Jewellery Design Awards this year celebrated its 20th anniversary with a modish cocktail party and a treasuretrove of luscious new designs. BIANCA MANGION was on the guest list and later spoke with the winners.

T

uring its back on the ceremonious format of past awards evenings, the JAA aimed to breathe new life into its flagship event with a sexy cocktail party at the Art Gallery of New South Wales in September. All the right intentions were there – a fresh, youthful evening dedicated to cutting-edge designers, held at a venue that reflected the aesthetic beauty of their stunning creations. Enlisting the aid of a PR firm to attract maximum consumer interest, the JAA seemed determined to put on a show: hot models paraded the winning jewels to admiring guests and a bevy of snappy photographers from mainstream media; a glossy, coffee-table consumer magazine was published to document the evening and its winning designs; and life-size posters depicting the pieces were erected around the room.

jewellery and has developed a passion for ­contemporary jewellery design. Awards and accolades: Finalist - Harper’s Bazaar and Diamond Guild of Australia Jewellery Awards – 2005 Finalist - Harper’s Bazaar and Diamond Guild of Australia Jewellery Awards – 2007. Design inspiration: The gemstone itself, which is a hawk’s eye stone, cut into a ring. We were careful not to detract attention from the natural beauty of the stone, so the intricacy of the design is only evident when viewed from the side. The original concept and gold casing in the raw was Thomas’ work while Stacey completed the pattern design, execution and finishing. The greatest difficulty was finding a way to form the gold casing to fit the stone perfectly. Unique feature: The effect of the stone and the uniqueness of the design. It is a bold piece, not ­overly-complex yet interesting.


{ Design awards } And the industry turned out in force, with double the number of projected guests attending – around 300 finalist/winners, sponsors, JAA members, media, JAA board and judges. At times, it seemed too many. Vogue editor-MC Kirstie Clements ­competed valiantly against a rising noise level as she compared jewellery to designer shoes, but one sensed she lost the battle. Of course, the evening was designed as a networking opportunity, a chance for industry members to shake away the cares of a busy fair day and mix ‘n’ mingle with old friends – much like after-work drinks. But after the third and fourth glass of social lubrication, the chit-chat grew louder and didn’t stop – even when world-famous diamond cutter Gabi Tolkowsky took the stage to announce the JAA Jeweller of the Year. “Where is the respect?” one guest murmured into a glass of ­champagne. But was it really the guests’ fault? The consensus was mixed. “The night was good in parts,” commented JAA CEO Ian Hadassin. “I wouldn’t say it was an outstanding success, but a lot depended on where you were located at the venue.” The sponsors also left with mediocre impressions: “On paper, the awards night format was a great idea,” said Ben Morrow, business ­development manager at Opal Design Award sponsor Opals Australia. “Gallery of NSW is a fantastic venue and totally relevant to a jewellery ­design award. Unfortunately, the execution left a lot to be desired –

although this was somewhat out of the organisers’ hands as many more people attended than were expected.” The main problem, according to Morrow and many others, was the ­layout of the two-tired, L-shaped room. It allowed only those directly in front of the stage to see and hear clearly, while those to the side were seemingly forgotten; left to entertain themselves with more conversation. Expertise Events managing director Gary Fitz-Roy – sponsor of the ­Apprentice Design Award – also blamed the perceived lack of event ­success on venue choice: “With the event being split over levels and ­different areas, you could not hear the presenters nor see the screen and, unless you were near the kitchen, were unable to get food or drinks once everyone arrived.” Morrow echoes these sentiments: “The awkwardly-shaped, upstairs restaurant was full to capacity, and many people were unable to see the ceremony take place, although it could be heard – albeit at a distance.” On the upside, a full and chatty crowd is often indicative of a successful event. Morrow was pleased with the high-vibe of the capacity-crowd: “The mood of the attendees was upbeat to say the least. It was great to see so many people supporting the creative side of the jewellery industry.” Hadassin conceded organisers were unprepared for the amount of guests but did not view this as entirely negative: “There were too many people for the venue – it was unfortunate that the space wasn’t designed

to cater for all 300 comfortably. But in a way, the crowd was a good thing. To have over 300 people attend was a great achievement.” The CEO was pleased with the cocktail format and felt it worked to impart a casual, relaxed feel. “The cocktail party allows people to mingle and network. I think people liked that they didn’t have to dress up in black tie if they didn’t want to and they could go home early if they wished,” he said. Indeed, the night did wrap-up shortly after the awards presentation – freeing guests to leave as they pleased – unlike in previous years when one felt fastened to their seat as they awaited their dessert course. Hadassin said he did want the night to go a little longer, and will ensure the next event in 2010 invites guests to stay and play. “It was a bit short. Next time there will be enough food and enough room for everyone to stand and see the proceedings properly. We will learn from the mistakes of this one and I’m sure the next one will be far better.” If there was a clear winner on the night, it was the entrants. Hailed as world-class, the jewels were truly breathtaking – and left some wondering why more is not done to celebrate the achievements of Australian designers.

“In the true Australian spirit, I think our designs always break new ground, but for some reason, we hold other countries’ designs in higher esteem,” Fitz-Roy commented. “After viewing the pieces this year, this should change anyone’s view as to the high standard of Australian design.” Hadassin agreed: “The standard of this year’s entries was very high and it just goes to confirm that the standard of design in Australia is extremely high. I believe it’s world-class,” he said. “Design in this country is stronger than most people – and even our industry realises. “The future of jewellery manufacturing in Australia depends heavily on the quality of our designers, and the manufacturers making small or ­one-off designs that are unusual and unique.” The JAA CEO cautioned against dismissing the importance of jewellery design to the overall health of the industry, stating new and innovative creations would ensure the trade’s triumph over mass-production. Perhaps this was why the designs truly were the heroes of the evening, with every attempt made to showcase them to their full glory. Jeweller spoke to all category winners about their designs,­­experiences, inspirations and aspirations for the future t Jeweller / November 2008 35


Winner Diamond Design Award (retail value up to $5,000) Alison Page Age: 33 Piece: Totem Employer/business: Freelance Designer with a practice in Coffs Harbour. I am collaborating with Mondial Neuman in the creation of Diamond Dreaming, a collection of contemporary Aboriginal jewellery. Industry experience: For the last 10 years, I have brought an Aboriginal p ­ erspective to Australian design through architectural, interior, exhibition design and public art projects. I am a member of the award-winning Aboriginal architecture group Merrima Design. Now, I am designing contemporary Australian Aboriginal jewellery. Two years ago, Michael Neuman from Mondial Neuman had seen me as a judge of the ABC TV program The New Inventors (which is now in its fifth season) and contacted me to collaborate on an idea that he had thinking about for years, which was to design contemporary Aboriginal jewellery. I jumped at the chance. The pieces I have designed build on a tradition of Aboriginal design that is layered in meaning and expresses a connection to the land, family and storytelling. We wanted to create beautiful objects that contain stories about land and family and our ­connections to it. They tell these stories with exquisite natural coloured diamonds, precious metals and the finest ­craftsmanship. The jewellery offers an invitation to share the spirit of the world’s oldest living culture. Awards and accolades: Winner – International ­ Federation of Interior Architects Design ­Contribution Award – 1999 Winner – NSW Local ­Government Culture Award – 2008 Design inspiration: Many cultures around the world identify with totems and symbols that express their connection to nature and the earth. In Australian Aboriginal culture, the shape of a mountain, a rock or a river could reveal your totem, which is why the piece has been abstracted – so that the wearer can interpret it.

Winner Platinum Design Award Jason Ree Age: 36 Piece: Fusion Employer/business: Jason Ree Industry experience: I worked with my father, John, as well as a few other jewellers during my apprenticeship. I then travelled overseas to meet other jewellers and learn from them also before finally establishing my own design studio. Awards and accolades: Winner – JAA Australian Jeweller of the Year – 2002 Winner – JAA Australian Jeweller of the Year – 2004 Design inspiration: A sculpture/ installation in the Victoria Albert Museum, London. I knew I wanted to have these fine wires with diamonds at the end. One problem was to make it strong and wearable – hence the twisting of the wires, which gives spring and rigidity – the other was fusing the diamonds to the gold, which was much more complicated and resulted in quite a few burnt diamonds. Unique feature: It uses a new technique never seen before.


Winner Apprentice of the Year and Apprentice Design/Craftsmanship Award Luke Jackson Age: 19 Piece: Roller Coaster of Love Employer/business: Verity Showcase Jewellers Industry experience: I am currently a second year apprentice but my parents have been involved with jewellery their whole lives, working as watch reps and office staff for Citizen Watches Australia. For the last 10 years, my parents have been running Verity showcase Jewellers in Perth and Geraldton.

 Awards and accolades: 
Winner – First Year Apprentice of the Year Award WA – 2007 Silver medallist – WorldSkills WA – 2007 Selected – WorldSkills Australia – 2008 Finalist – AGR Next Generation Jewellery Design Competition – 2007 Design inspiration: I was looking to create something fun and different. Once I had thought of the roller-coaster design, I drew inspiration from the old-day ­wooden-framed roller-coasters, looking up dozens of pictures on the internet.
I was actually taking a break from trying to design something for the competition and was just doodling on a piece of paper. I drew a line of swerves and loops and thought it looked like a roller-coaster track. The more I thought about it, the better I thought it was.

Winner Computer Aided Design Award Liana Coetsee Age: 23 Piece: Global Translation Employer/business: Nina’s Jewellery Industry experience: I started my jewellery career in South Africa seven years ago where I helped my cousin in a store called “Die Goudsmid” (The Goldsmith). Here I did some basic training and became familiar with designing. I really loved what I was doing and decided to take it up as a career. I studied at the Tswane ­University of Technology for three years, achieving my diploma in Jewellery Design and ­Manufacturing. This included courses in art history, business skills and gemology. I also completed a course in Rhino 3D. I got a job at Déonne le Roux Jewellers in Pretoria, one of South Africa’s leading jewellers, and learned more about designing and Matrix. To broaden my horizons and pursue a dream of living in Australia, I started looking for a position. Steve Turner of Nina’s Jewellery heard about me through the grapevine and gave me a call. I got the position as designer at Nina’s – they sponsored my move to WA and I’m ­currently still working at Nina’s Jewellery in Dunsborough. Here I’ve got the freedom of design and expressing my creativity as I did in the JAA competition piece. Nina’s supports me and everyone works together as a team. Awards and accolades: This is the first. Design inspiration: It was inspired by the statistics from Al Gore’s film, An ­Inconvenient Truth. Each individual piece represents the whole earth in half a millennium, taking into consideration global warming and water levels rising, yet causing continents to become smaller. Diamonds bring joy to those who wear them while ­being part of capturing and ­containing carbon for ­eternity. The river of neoprene is ­ever-present running through the centre of the earth, ­representing the products we use and the challenges we can overcome to fight this ­environmental crisis. Unique feature: It is a truly innovative design relevant to issues that society is currently confronting.

Tollfree 1800 811 116 T 02 9264 9393 f 02 9283 1886

sales@peekays.com.au www.peekays.com.au


{ Design awards } Winner Diamond ­Design Award (retail value $5,000 or above) Nadia Neuman Age: 34 Piece: Truth – Love – Desire Employer/business: Mondial Jewellers Industry experience: I come from a family business in jewellery design. Awards and accolades: I have entered six pieces in competitions – DeBeers, JAA and Harpers and have been a finalist for all of them. This, however, is the first time I have won. Design inspiration: I believe jewellery should have meaning. It should represent an important moment in your life, someone you love or something you want to say. It should tell you about the beliefs, the desires and the character of the one who wears it. The necklace is designed to be worn in alignment with the Chakras. I have always believed that gemstones have the ability to affect your energetic field. Chakras are the body’s center of activity that receives, assimilates and expresses life force energy. The colour of the diamonds are directly related to each Chakra and their desired effect. Unique feature: An extremely high-end piece of jewellery, very ­well-made with some of the finest and rarest gemstones in the world. It tells you a story; it has meaning and symbolism.

Winner Pearl Design Award Denzil Lewis Price Age: 56 Piece: Moon Dance Employer/business: Tiaura (Sole trader) Industry experience: In 1968, I started a six-year apprenticeship in Perth and was trained by Swiss and German Master Jewellers. Soon after my ­apprenticeship, I moved to Brisbane where I had the ­opportunity to work with a broad diversity of jewellery styles. On returning to Perth, in 1978, I collaborated more with jewellery designers and started training apprentices in the workshop situation. I worked for 12 months as a master pattern maker prior to moving to London in 1987 for a five-year term. Initially I worked with a team of master pattern makers and designers in Hatten Garden. Following this, I worked in a co-operative in Clarkenwell called Cockpit Workshops where I began in the exploration of design ideas and new techniques. During this period of time, I saw success with my pieces selling through Jess James Galleries in Soho London. Upon my return to Australia, I concentrated on producing my own designs for clients as well as consignment work. Concurrently I taught Jewellery Drawing and Design at Central Metropolitan College of Tafe in WA. In 2004, I started Tiaura and today I am concentrating on fine handmade jewellery while further ­exploring and developing my own distinctive expression. Awards and accolades: 1993 - First Prize - Shinju Matsuri Pearl Jewellery Design Awards, Broome WA 1994 - First Prize - South Sea Jeweller Design Awards, Broome WA 1997 - Finalist - Pure Creation - Pearl Design Awards 1998 - Finalist - Pure Creation - Pearl Design Awards 1999 - Finalist - De Beers Australian Diamond Design Awards 2000 - First Prize - Lightening Ridge Opal Design Awards Design inspiration: Moon Dance was inspired by the contrast of shapes in the folding of waves and the distinct symmetry of crystal structures. When the piece is placed on its curved surface with the pearl at the top, the rocking motion resembles a dancing moon. I wished to design a ring to accommodate a large pearl that would rest directly on the finger in a simplistic way. I used a single plate of 18-carat white gold that I curved into a shape, allowing the pearl to rest directly on the finger.

38 Jeweller / November 2008

Winner Gold Design Award Monika Droste Age: 30 Piece: Ying and Yang Business/employer: Venerari Industry experience: I literally grew up in the workshop. I started experimenting and working at the bench from around the age of 10. My father is a master jeweller back home in Germany and both he and my mother have operated our family business for over 40 years, so becoming a jeweller came naturally to me. After completing my apprenticeship, I worked at different jewellers around ­Germany for several years. I thoroughly enjoyed school and learning different ­techniques so, at the age of 24, I decided to return to university to complete my ­Masters in Gold and Silver Smithing. I have a great passion for any kind of ­hammering techniques, like Mokume Gane. Awards and accolades: No others. Design inspiration: The bangle expresses the sense of a wave symbolising the ups and downs in life. The colour of the ceramic ends represent the colour of the ocean, it’s a reminder that all life evolves from the ocean. Derived from the passion I have for touch, my aim was to create a very smooth piece that was pleasing to feel. I wanted it to be unique and unlike any other design – so no one could reproduce it in a way that I did. Every single bit is handmade, hammered by me. The hinge at the bottom of the piece is technically perfect.

Winner Apprentice Design Award Ryan Silvester Age: 22 Piece: Genuflexion Soleus Employer/business: Jewellery By Design, Townsville Industry experience: I tried to secure an apprenticeship while living in Brisbane but was unsuccessful. It seemed the base requirement for entering the industry was a little experience, but to get that experience was almost impossible. Eventually, Michael Ferguson and Brian ­Bretherton allowed me to do some work experience with them. They showed me a lot in the few months I was there and gave me a brilliant reference for the only available apprenticeship in Queensland at the time, which was in Townsville. I moved up to Townsville and started my ­apprenticeship with Jewellery By Design, working alongside JAA finalist Jed Waghorn and head jeweller Martin Linning. I’m due to complete my apprenticeship in August 2009. Awards and accolades: Shortlisted – Art Express Exhibition NSW – HSC (Year 12). Design inspiration: I wanted to create a new way to wear jewellery. During summer here in Townsville the beach is the best place to be, so I designed a piece that could be worn with class in that casual setting. I also believe the piece could be the ultimate jewellery accessory for the red carpet. Unique feature: It pushes the boundaries of jewellery design and my background in visual arts has helped me portray my idea effectively in the drawing.


{ Children’s{jewellery feature } }

JUST Children’s jewellery is an oft-overlooked category but, as BIANCA MANGION discovers, many loving parents like to pamper their little ones.

I

t’s no revelation that proud parents and favouring friends love to spoil the precious little people in their lives with gifts of gold, silver and even gemstone. Give these babies a few years, however, and they’ll have an instilled-taste for jewellery that will see them throwing temper tantrums if mum refuses them that funky new watch or too-cool-forschool charm bracelet. And this is exactly what ­retailers should aim for. “Kids are having more influence over what is purchased for them,” says Rachel Hehir, ­marketing manager, Peter W Beck, whose range is designed for newborns to 10-year-olds. As many children’s jewellery suppliers advise, the trick to increasing sales in this category is to appeal to the kids as well as their parents. “We spent a lot of time on our kids ranges, seeing it as a growing market,” says Tommy Painter from Kit Heath Jewellery. “We are ­targeting the parents and grandparents more

than the children themselves as they are the ones that buy it, but we try to design and ­produce something that the kids will love and want to keep forever.” And to save a jewellery piece being discarded to the bottom of the child’s jewellery box, it’s important to appeal to their fashion sensibility, according to Painter: “Children are wanting to look older at a younger age.” Megan Wishart from Bacio Junior supplier ­Seriously Twisted agrees, defining the Bacio range of rubber and sterling silver charm ­bracelets as being aimed at 4-10 year-olds. “The children older than 10 will be wanting the adult range,” she says. Yes, children of today know what they want, and they want it now. And like many adults, they want to play with their pieces, creating something personal that truly reflects their own style. “Children love to create their own look of

Enlighten Swarovski Elements

Pastiche

Jeweller / November 2008 39


{ Children’s jewellery } Moda Group

Giovanni Imports

Jewellery Junction

Worth & Douglas

Kit Heath

“the personalised baby bangles remain popular. New parents and relatives buy them engraved with the child’s name, not only to be worn as jewellery, but as a keepsake.” rachel Hehir, marketing manager, Peter W beck.

bracelet by mixing colours and designs,” Wishart says. “The idea is to push the colourful nature of Bacio and the uniqueness of creating your own piece of jewellery.” But older kids are not the only ones who ­prefer it personal. Parents like to buy their babies something identifying, too. “We are seeing the personalised baby ­bangles remain popular,” Hehir says. “New ­parents and relatives buy them engraved with the child’s name, not only to be worn as a ­jewellery piece but as a keepsake for the future.” The notion of children’s jewellery becoming a keepsake or family heirloom is still alive and well in this category, with some suppliers

s­ taying steadfast to classic motifs and designs that will last a lifetime and beyond. We believe that children’s jewellery will remain traditional,” says Arthur Pike, director, Cashelle Jewellery Company, whose children’s jewellery is aimed at toddlers to pre-teens. “Our popular lines include curb and belcher bracelets with ID plates for engraving, in HGP and sterling silver,” Pike adds. “Brooches are also very popular, both in sterling silver and HGP. Most of the popular items have blue birds and teddy bears attached to the padlock.” You can’t go past cute motifs for children’s classics. Hehir notes teddy bears, hearts and stars as best-sellers at Peter W Beck, saying, “As children get older, the scope of their ­preferences increases greatly.” Bracelets and bangles remain the most sought-after pieces for junior adornment, with charms adding whimsical appeal. “We are now finding that the traditional golf bangles are more popular with the addition of charms, such as teddy bears, hearts and ­assorted animals,” Pike says. Heart, butterfly, flower and letter charms are taking-off for Seriously Twisted, while Kit Heath is adding “girly gingham” and “delightful dotty” collections to its offering. Indeed, kids love colour, so retailers must make sure their junior jewellery range offers a rainbow of choices. “Brighter colours seem to be more popular this year. We have always done well with our pastel range but lately seem to be selling more of the bright colours,” Wishart explains. “Reds, blues, yellows, purples and hot pinks are the best sellers.” And for a precious keepsake option, there’s no mistaking coloured gemstones: “Some of our bracelets and brooches are also available set

with genuine rubies and sapphires,” Pike says. When it comes to kids pieces, packaging also must be extra special. “Packaging is very important and must be beautifully done to complement the jewellery,” Painter comments. “People love to buy a nice piece of jewellery all boxed, and many sales can be completed once the jewellery is shown packaged.” Pike agrees that display and packaging is vital: “All our children’s jewellery is sold under the Cashelle brand and usually displayed on our point of sale displays.” Bacio Junior by Seriously Twisted offers the complete point of sale story for its retailers. A bright yellow abacus displays the beads, while posters, counter display cards and wish list flyers complete the picture. Beads are taken home in pillow boxes and every bracelet or necklace comes with a bright yellow branded box. It seems anything that’ll enhance the gifting experience for both child and the parents is sure to be cool for kids. After all, the littlies do love boxes. With the tremendous range of ­children’s jewellery now on offer, one hopes those trendy tykes will love what’s inside, even more t

Seriously Twisted Jewellery 40 Jeweller / November 2008



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hey say you can’t judge a book by its cover. For jewellers, the opposite is true. Take the Tiffany blue box, for example – a package as coveted as the diamond ring inside. Good presentation doesn’t just enhance the desirability of a brand or product; it sends a message to customers about style, q ­ uality, innovation, and, most importantly, what’s actually on offer. From refined display cases to funky point-of-sale branding stands, winning window displays and customised boxes, quality ­jewellery demands quality presentation. Display and packaging is not a cost that can be compromised, argues Kimberley George of Sydney-based Platinum Packaging: “The Australian market requires a face-lift in regard to packaging,” George says. “For many years, jewellers have forgotten the importance of ­presentation and branding, which should not end at the display in the window but should

Platinum Packaging

42 Jeweller / November 2008

follow the customer into their home.” A specialist in custom packaging, product displays, diamond displays, watch winders and collector cases, Platinum Packaging is one of a plethora of display and packaging suppliers that are significantly expanding presentation options for Australian jewellers. For George, the Platinum message is simple: “How a product is packaged can have a big effect on who buys the product and how it is perceived.” Platinum Packaging offers an all-in-one display and packaging solution that creates a unique and individual identity for the retailer. “We match business colours and branding, which helps jewellers with the overall marketing of their business,” says George. Platinum has produced a variety of custom packaging for a ring of exclusive jewellers, including Gordon Herford Master Jewellers, Victoria Buckley Jewellery, and a new range of packaging for Prouds’ high-end jewellery line. Among Platinum’s hot new display ­products is a range of hand-made acrylic diamond ­displays, sold in ten different styles, and able to be customised in-line with a shop’s branding. A new range of display products in Italian suede or leatherette can also be customised for full windows, including “Rome” stands: ­height-adjustable, ideal for featuring special items of jewellery; and U-shape busts. Display and packaging products in Australia are increasingly dominated by ­homogenised, mass-produced goods from ­China and Asia, much of it coming in stock colours. This has ingrained a conservative ­approach to visual merchandising. “There’s a big demand for traditional black packaging in Australia; it’s quite conservative

compared to the brighter and more dramatic displays overseas,” notes Selwyn Brandt from Sydney’s House of Jewellery, which markets a range of packaging and display wares. According to Brandt, House of Jewellery gives customers an opportunity to mix things up: “We’ve recognised a niche in affordable but exclusive packaging, and offer specialised products that bridge the gap between different materials like timber, leather and cardboard.” Boxes covered in soft leather-look material trimmed with natural timber are one option, while House of Jewellery’s new range of gold or silver cornered boxes will add some “pizzazz” to earring, ring or cufflink cases, says Brandt. “We’ve also recognised that standard cardboard outer sleeves can spoil, and look cheap,” he adds. “So we’ve created a new sleeve covered in the same fabric as the hinged box.” Added to the House of Jewellery packaging range is custom printing and custom fabrics to match store displays, which allow stores to brand their packaging and display with their company logo and create a unique identity. But a long lead-time – three months for printing – and a need to commit to large volumes means customisation has been slow to take off among Australian jewellers already struggling with increased competition and rising costs. Brandt believes that those who do try it might find the competitive advantage they’ve been looking for. High profile jewellery ranges, like charm group Pandora Jewelry, are staking a large part of their retail strategy on branded point-of-sale displays and packaging. Pandora’s stringent visual merchandising model is paying dividends, with their ready-made displays and strategic approach sending a strong, striking message


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to customers. Pandora implores retailers that visual impact begins about nine metres outside a store. Stores then have three seconds to stop traffic with visual impact, three seconds to entice customers into the store, and three seconds to tell them about the business. When presenting a diverse range in a store window, immediate impact and fluid brand awareness demands an equally fluid approach to displays and store fit-outs. Sydney’s Display Design is a one-stop visual merchandising shop: “Our focus is on streamlined, versatile store fixtures to create a successful, dynamic retail environment,” says Annie House, marketing manager of Display Design. “Just like fashion there are always new trends emerging in the retail design sector. A successful store design concept should include analytics of products, market and functionality.” House insists that the needs of the target market must to be well understood: “The ­retailer should analyse their products, market and desired image perception, and clearly convey this information, in detail, at the beginning of the store planning/design process,” she says. “This is where you can successfully create a point of differentiation from your competitors.” House sites research that shows visual merchandising increases the chance of a sale by four or five times. “Other findings showed that display themes linked most strongly to ­consumer purchase intention were m ­ erchandise colours, presentation style, ­awareness of fixtures, path finding, sensory qualities of materials and lighting,” House notes. So what does this mean for the retailer looking for a fit-out that better represents the personality and product of their store? “There is no magical recipe,” House says. “High-impact window or interior displays can be as simple or complex as they like. “Symmetry, balance, colour and lighting should be carefully considered when planning a display,” House adds, “meaning a good

use of space and colour – as simple as painting the back wall – right through to the ­utilisation of bold or unusual props.” Good display and packaging must also be functional. After all, it serves a primary purpose or else it would not been needed. “Having the displays looking good is only part of what we do,” says Enid Mohylenko of Adelaide-based Grant Austin Display ­Packaging, whose mission is to minimise the time and money retailers spend performing set-ups and take-downs, and give sales staff more ­opportunity to deal with customers. “The retailer’s real goal is to get their product into the hands of the consumer and increase their bottom line, and we are continuously on the look out for ways to improve their service to customers.” Grant Austin’s innovative, time-saving display packaging devices include the Tilt Series boxes, a product available in wood, matt paper and velvet that is angled and magnetised to optimise the display of jewellery, and Ice Grip displays, which secure jewellery without hooks, clips, elastic or Velcro. Eliminating the need for unclipping, unhooking or unsticking, Ice Grip displays come in leatherette, metal and wood. “There’s no fumbling to retrieve the piece, or having the customer wait ten minutes while the jeweller returns a piece in order to pick out another,” Mohylenko explains. Display Design offers a similarly functional range of lockable, frameless glass showcases. The company also manufactures display cases, counters and stands to specification. The popular, lockable Mirage and Kubica showcases offer frameless glass construction with no distracting external profiles, toughened glass for greater safety, adjustable shelving and low voltage ­lighting in a range of sizes and modern styles. These off-the-shelf display solutions have lately overrun an older tradition of customised display manufacture. Simmance of Melbourne has a venerable record of producing exclusive

Chas Clarkson

display cases for a distinguished list of clients, but an influx of ready-made product has seen a decline in its jewellery cabinet-making service. “The stuff coming out of China has devastated my business,” says Simmance’s Ray Young. “Cases from Asia come in white, cream or black. I do any colour. If a client says, ‘I want an earring stand that will do this,’ I make it ­exclusively. Something different attracts attention.” Working with high quality materials, from the latest metallic finishes in brushed aluminium and copper to high quality fabrics from Italy, Simmance can also produce packaging for one-off pieces that don’t fit in mass-produced boxes, and collaborates with shop fitters to ­create customised window displays. Jewellers wanting to stand out in a crowded market need to consider reinvigorating their store and product identity though a bolder, more innovative display and packaging vision aimed specifically at their target market. And, like successful brands, stores need to send out a strong, streamlined visual ­merchandising message. Remember, there is only three ­seconds to strike t

Continued

Jeweller / November 2008 43




gn g ngg g ngg Packagi ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g g gin cka g ngg P ack P g ng g g ngg Packagi Packagi g ngg Packagi g ng g agi ack g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack g ngg P g ngg Pa g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi ackagi P g ng g agi ngg Packagi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g ngg P g ngg Pacckaggingg Pack g ngg Packagi ackagi P g ngg Packagi g ng g agi ack g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g ngg Pack g ngg Packagi g ngg Pa ackagi P g ngg Packagi g ng g agi ack ngg Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g ngg PackDOIN’ IT FOR THEMSELVES agi BRANDS g ngg P g ngg Pacckaggingg Pack g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi g Packagi ng g agi ack g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ngg Brand display andagi g ngg Pa packaging profile g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi Packagi g ng g agi ngg Packagi ack P g ng g ack P g ng g agi 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ng agi ack ngg Packagi P ng agi ack P ng agi ack P ng agi ack P g ngg Pa Packagi g ng g agi ack ging Packaging Packaging Packagingack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack g ngg P g ngg P agi g ngg P Packagi g ngg Packkagi g ng g agi ack P g ngg Packagi g ng g agi Packagi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack g ngg P g ngg Packagi a agi g ngg Pa quality ngg Pack gmatters g ngg Packagi g Packagi g ng g Packagi ng Packagi g agi ngg When ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g g ckagin g ngg P g ngg Pack g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi g Packagi ng g agi Packagi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ngg a agi g ngg Pa g ngg Pack g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi ackagi P g ng g agi ngg Packagi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g g Pack ckagin g ngg P g ngg Pack g ngg Packagi ackagi P g ngg Packagi g ng g agi ack g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g ngg Pack g ngg Pa g ngg Packagi Jewellery ackagi g ngg Packagi agi g ngg PPackaging ack agi P g ng g agi ngg Pack ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g g ngg P g ngg Pacckaggingg Packagi agi g ngg Packagi agi ack P g ngg Pack g ng g agi ack Custom Packaging g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi g ngg Pa g Packagi g ngDisplays g ngg Packagi ngg Packagi g Packagi ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ngg P g ngg Pacckaggingg agi g ngg Packagi g ngg PackDisplays g Packagi ng g agi ack g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack Diamond P g ngg g ngg Pa g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi ackagi P g ng g agi ngg Packagi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g ngg P g ngg Pacckaggingg Pack g ngg Packagi Packagi ackagi P g nggPouches g ng g agi ack g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g ngg Pack g ngg P g ngg Packagi ackagi g ngg Packagi agi g ngg PWinders ack agi P g ng g agi ingg PackWatch ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g My Little Angel by Paterson Fine Jewellery, Ross Paterson agi ack P g ng g g ngg Packagi g ngg P ac agi g ngg Pack agi g ngg Packagi agi ack ngg PackCases P gCollector g ng g agi ack g Packagi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g g ngg Packagi g ngg P g ngg Packagi g Packagi ng g agi g ngg Packagi ack P g ng g agi ingg Packagi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ngg g ngg Packagi a agi g ngg Pack ng Packaging P agi ack P g ngg Packagi ng agi ack g Packagi P ng agi ack P ng agi ack P Packaging g ngg Pa g ngg Packagi ackagi P ing Packaging Packaging Packaging g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g g Pack ckagin g ngg P g ngg Pack g ngg Packagi ackagi ackagi P g ngg P g agi ng g agi ack g Pack13/70-72 P g ng g agi ack Captain Cook Drive, P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi g ngg Pack g ngg Pa g ngg Packagi ackagi g ngg Packagi agi g ngg PNSW ack P g ng g Caringbah 2229 agi ngg Packagi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g ckaggingg Packagi g ngg P Pac7816 ngg9525 g(02) g ngg Packagi agi PackFax:agi ack ngg 7815 P g9525 g ng g agi ack g PPh:ack(02)agi P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g g ngg Packagi g ngg Pa g ngg Packagi Packagi g ng g agi g ngg Packagi ack P ackagi g ng g agi ngg Psales@platinumpackaging.com.au ack P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack g ngg P g g Packagi g ngg P Packagi g ngg Pacckagin g ng g agi ack ngg Packagi P g g agi ng g agi ack g Packwww.platinumpackaging.com.au P g ng g agi ack P g ng g agi ack g ngg P www.watchwinders.com.au g ngg Packagi g ngg P g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi agi g ngg Packagi ingg Pack g ngg Packagi g ngg Packagi ingg Packagi Brand philosophy: Create a sophisticated brand image and align retailers to keep that image consistent across all stores and all states. Refresh the brand to drive repeat purchases by following the marketing calendar of celebrations. ­Create a strong impression to passing traffic and create window displays that will entice customers into the stores. Say the most powerful message in the shortest space of time, and create a memorable experience for the customer linked to their unforgettable moment.

Product packaging and display: Base window display plus branded packaging, such as charm bracelet boxes. We offer merchandising props in the form of window displays, which includes a base display that is updated for each cycle in the ‘celebration calendar’ for key retail occasions. The current window displays modules were designed by famous European visual merchandising designer Emilie Kindt-Larsen, who also designs for many of the Parisian fashion houses including Christian Dior. These displays ­follow the themes of magazine advertisements, meaning the synergy for these ‘celebrations’ works from advertising to point of sale. It’s a complete story. Free to the retailer, the displays are augmented with gift bags, jewellery boxes, branded Pandora bags, ribbons and much more.

Brand philosophy: Vina is an exciting new jewellery brand whose maiden collection brings a subtle yet seductive range ­encapsulating the classic and modern woman. Vina stems from a team of esteemed jewellers who have set a new standard of excellence in sterling silver jewellery and continue to grow its solid reputation built on glowing recommendations from loyal customers over the last 20 years. The new marketing collateral has been specifically designed to project the elegant, timeless, refined Vina Jewellery Collection and the Pinaroo team has also ­created marketing collateral that will help retailers promote the new Vina identity through the branded packaging, displays, catalogues and website.

Product packaging and display: Pinaroo has been an esteemed jeweller for almost 20 years, and we have just launched our new brand, Vina ­Jewellery Collection, sold complete with point-of-sale and window displays that include earring, ring and bracelet stands, carry bags, pouches and much more in one seamless marketing package. We focus on exclusive design and fine quality, and have come up with display and packaging to match this. Our point-of-sale jewellery stands, Vina gift pouches and custom packaging align with our streamlined marketing collateral including a new website (www.vinajewellery.com.au), imagery, catalogues and so on.

Product packaging and display: My Little Angel is the largest range of children’s jewellery in Australia, supplying kids-themed pendants, earrings, brooches and rings exclusively to independent jewellers nationally. Launched at the Jewellery Fair, this innovative range of kid’s jewellery is now beautifully presented for point-of-sale display on a mounted cover board, and in matching, colour-coordinated boxes and handbags. These will be offered at selected stores.

What is the target audience? Anyone looking to buy jewellery for children aged 0-10 as gifts, for christenings and so on – including parents, grandparents, friends and relations - now have a greater point of sale experience.


{ World fair guide }

9 0 0 2 Guide World Fair Jeweller makes international buying easy with its Annual World Fair Guide 2009. From dates to destinations, contacts to cities, this handy reference is a suitcase-essential.

By month January BIJOUTEX Munich, Germany Heinz Kohl Fachausstellungen Gmbh T + 49 7 1817 9515 E info@kohl-fachausstellungen.de www.bijoutex.de 2–4 January 2009 MACAU JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR Macau, SAR CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 2158
 E kenlau@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 8-11 January 2009 PRINT’OR Chassieu, France Agor T + 33 1 4431 8225 E sdevesly@agor.net www.printor.fr 11-13 January 2009 FIRST - VICENZAORO WINTER Vicenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 11-18 January FIRST - JEWELLERY TECHNOLOGY FORUM Vicenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 12-13 January 2009 BISUTEX - INTERNATIONAL GIFT & FASHION JEWELLERY WEEK Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 14-18 January 2009 SOUTH INDIA JEWELLERY SHOW (SIJS) Bangalore, India The Art of Jewellery T + 91 8025 201 687 E vinodkaul@artofjewellery.com http://www.artofjewellery.com 16-18 January 2009

JA NEW YORK (WINTER SHOW) New York, USA VNU Expositions T + 1 64 6654 4983 E drew.lawsky@nielsen.com www.ja-newyork.com 18-20 January 2009 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO (IJT) Tokyo, Japan Reed Exhibitions, Japan T + 813 3349 8503 E nishimurak@reedexpo.co.jp http://www.ijt.jp/english/ 21-24 January 2009 TOKYO INTERNATIONAL WATCH FAIR (TWF) Tokyo, Japan Reed Exhibitions, Japan T + 813 3349 8503 E nishimurak@reedexpo.co.jp http://www.twfjapan.jp/english/ 21-24 January 2009 GLDA LAS VEGAS GEM Nevada, USA GLDA Inc. T + 1 52 0792 9431 E exhibitors@glda.com http://www.artofjewellery.com 25-27 January 2009 BIJORHCA - ECLAT DE MODE Paris, France Reed Expositions, France T + 33 1 4756 5282 E info.bijorhca@reedexpo.fr www.bijorhca.com 30 January – 2 February 2009 GEM, STONE & JEWELLERY SHOW Tucson, USA American Gem Trade Association T + 2 13 629 3030 E info@jogsshow.com www.jogsshow.com 30 January – 10 February 2009 JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE Miami, USA Jewelers International Showcase T + 1 56 1998 0205 E jisshow@aol.com www.jisshow.com 31 January – 2 February 2009 J.O.G.S. GEM & JEWELLERY SHOW Tucson, USA J.O.G.S. T + 2 13 629 3030

E info@jogsshow.com www.jogsshow.com 31 January – 10 February 2009 PUEBLO GEM AND MINERAL SHOW Tucson, USA Tucson West Hotel Associates LLC T + 1 31 0586 6815 E info@pueblogemshow.com www.pueblogemshow.com 31 January – 12 February 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Tucson, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 31 January – 13 February 2009

February

KOSMIMA ATHENS EXCLUSIVE 2009 Attiki, Greece Helexpo T + 30 2310 291 162 E kosmima@helexpo.gr www.helexpo.gr 6-9 February 2009 CARAT Budapest, Hungary Hungexpo T + 36 1263 6584 E kincses.erika@hungexpo.hu http://www.hungexpo.hu 12-15 February 2009 TUCSON GEM & MINERAL SHOW Tucson, USA Tucson Gem & Mineral Society T + 1 52 0322 5773 E tgms@tgms.org www.tgms.org 12-15 February 2009

SPRING FAIR BIRMINGHAM Birmingham, UK NEC Birmingham T + 1 44 20 7728 3949 E visit@springfair.com www.springfair.com 1-5 February 2009

AMBIENTE FRANKFURT Frankfurt am Main, Germany Messe Frankfurt GmBT T + 49 2 8296 0455 E doris.schnyder@germany.org.au www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com 13-17 February 2009

TUSCON BEAD RENAISSANCE SHOW Michigan, USA J & J Promotions, L.L.C. T + 5 75 894 1293 E beadshow@aol.com www.beadshow.com 2-9 February 2009

IBERJOYA MADRID Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 18-22 February 2009

JUNWEX 2009 St Petersburg, Russia Restec Exhibitions Company
 T + 7 81 2303 9876
 E conf@rjexpert.ru www.rjexpert.ru 4-8 February 2009

IIJS SIGNATURE GOA (Exclusive show for the Indian Jewellery Exporters) Kala Academy, Goa, India T + 91 22 2389 4957 E tom@gjepcindia.com http://www.iijs-signature.org 20-23 February 2009

AGTA GEM FAIR Tucson, USA American Gem Trade Association T + 2 14 742 4367 E info@agta-gtc.org http://www.agta.org 4-9 February 2009 WORLDWIDE GEM & JEWELLERY SHOW Tucson, USA Worldwide Gem & Jewellery LLC T + 1 52 0882 4200 E laurel@gjxusa.com www.wgjusa.com 4-9 February 2009

INHORGENTA EUROPE 2009 Munich, Germany Messe Munich International T + 49 89 9491 1398 E info@inhorgenta.de www.inhorgenta.de 20-23 February 2009 GEM & JEWELLERY INDIA ­INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION 2009 Chennai, India MJDMA & CMP India T + 91 9999 505 514 E Nigelb@ubmindia.com http://www.artofjewellery.com 25-27 February 2009

Jeweller / November 2008 47


9 0 0 2 Guide air World F

{ feature }

SIBJEWELRY 2009 Novosibirsk, Russia The Siberian Fair T + 7 3832 106 290 E welcome@sibfair.ru www.sibfair.ru 25-28 February 2009 BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELLERY FAIR Bangkok, Thailand Thai Gem & Jewelry Traders Association T + 662 630 1390 E info@bangkokgemsfair.com www.bangkokgemsfair.com 25 February - 1 March 2009 CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, ­JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Shenzhen, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 2116 E janicechik@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions/ 26 February – 1 March 2009 YUVELIR VESNA Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 27 February – 7 March 2009 ATLANTA JEWELLERY SHOW Atlanta, USA SJTA- Southern Jewellery Travellers Association T + 1 800 241 0399 E info@atlantajewelryshow.com www.atlantajewelryshow.com 28 February - 2 March 2009 HONG KONG AIRPORT INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Asia World Expo, Hong Kong Neway Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E info@newayfairs.com www.newayfairs.com February TBA

March ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2585 6179
 E kenlau@cmpasia.com www.AsiaFJA.com 4-7 March 2009 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Hong Kong, China Hong Kong Trade Development Council T + 852 1830 6688 E exhibitions@tdc.org.hk www.hkjewellery.com 4-8 March 2009

48 Jeweller / November 2008

AMBER TRIP 2009 - THE INT. BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW Vilnius, Lithuania UAB Amber Trip T + 3 70 5260 8495 E info@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com 5-8 March 2009 MJSA EXPO NEW YORK New York, USA Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America T + 1 40 1274 3840 E CindyMcKenna@mjsa.org www.mjsainc.com 8-10 March 2009 AMBERIF 2009 - 16. INT. FAIR OF AMBER, JEWELLERY & GEMSTONES Gdansk, Poland Gdansk International Fair Company T + 48 5 8554 9155 E amberif@mtgsa.com.pl www.ambermart.pl 11-14 March 2009 MALAYSIA INT. JEWELLERY FAIR - SPRING EDITION Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Hong Kong - Asia Exhibitions T + 603 9058 8772 E exhibition@elite.com.my www.elite.com.my 13-16 March 2009 JAA AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY FAIR 2009 Brisbane, Australia Expertise Events T + 61 2 9452 7575 E info@expertiseevents.com.au www.expertiseevents.com.au 15-16 March 2009 LUXURY BERMUDA Bermuda Reed Exhibitions T + 1 41 6756 8250 E stemple@reedexpo.com www.jckgroup.com 15-18 March 2009 ISTANBUL JEWELLERY SHOW I Yesilkoy, Istanbul Rotaforte T + 90 21 2519 0719 E Hanzade@rotaforte.com www.rotaforte.com.tr 18-22 March 2009 MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL GOLD & JEWELLERY FAIR 2009 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Hongkong-Asia Exhibition (Holdings) Ltd. T + 852 2591 9823 E rajo@hka.com.hk 20-23 March 2009 30TH EDITION OROAREZZO: INTERNATIONAL GOLD, SILVER & JEWELLERY TRADE FAIR Arezzo, Italy Centro Promozionie Servizi T + 39 0575 9361 E cenaco@ats.it

www.oroarezzo.it 21-24 March 2009

May

BASELWORLD WATCH, CLOCK & JEWELLERY SHOW Basel, Switzerland MCH Swiss Exhibition P + 41 58 206 25 25 E info@baselworld.com www.baselshow.com 26 March – 2 April 2009

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Orlando, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 1-3 May 2009

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Detroit, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 27-29 March 2009

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Franklin, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 8-10 May 2009

April

CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Guangzhou, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 1677 E salescjw@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 9-12 May 2009

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Minneapolis, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 5-6 April 2009 26th MIDEAST WATCH AND JEWELLERY FAIR Sharjah, United Arab Emirates Expo Centre Sharjah T + 971 6577 0000 E info@expo-centre.ae www.expo-centre.co.ae 7-11 April 2009 JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE Miami, USA Jewelers International Showcase T + 1 56 1998 0205 E jisshow@aol.com www.jisshow.com 18-20 April 2009 THE INSTORE SHOW – THE SMART JEWELRY SHOW Chicago, USA INSTORE and INDESIGN Magazines P + 847 918 9495 E Jim@instoremag.com www.theinstoreshow.com 19-21 April 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW West Springfield, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 24-25 April 2009 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR CHINA Shanghai, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com April TBA

EPHJ SHOW 2009 Lausanne, Switzerland EPHJ-EPMT T + 41 2 2798 4595 E ephj@ephj.ch www.ephj.ch 12-15 May 2009 JEWELLERY SHANGHAI 2009 Shanghai, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com 13-16 May 2009 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY KOBE (IJK) Kobe, Japan Reed Exhibitions, Japan T + 813 3349 8503 E nishimurak@reedexpo.co.jp http://www.ijt.jp/english/ 14-16 May 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Branson, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 15-17 May 2009 YUVELIR 2 Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 15-23 May 2009


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CHARM - VICENZAORO SPRING Vicenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 16-20 May 2009

JCK LAS VEGAS 2009 – JCK EXHIBITS Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 30 May – 2 June 2009

2009 GLDA LAS VEGAS GEM & JEWELLERY SHOW Las Vegas, USA Pan American Enterprises LLC T + 1 52 0743 8180 E info@glda.com http://www.glda.com 25-28 May 2009

June

JCK LAS VEGAS 2009 - EDUCATION Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 28-29 May 2009 THE LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE, JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW Las Vegas, USA DMG World Media T + 23 9732 6642 E andreacanady@dmgworldmedia.com www.dmgantiqueshows.com 28 May – 1 June 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Las Vegas, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 29-31 May 2009 LAS VEGAS BEAD RENAISSANCE SHOW Las Vegas, USA J & J Promotions, L.L.C. T + 5 75 894 1293 E beadshow@aol.com www.beadshow.com 29-31 May 2009 NEW RUSSIAN STYLE Moscow, Russia Restec Exhibitions Company
 T + 7 812 320 80 99
 E secur@restec.ru www.rjexpert.ru 29 May – 1 June 2009 JCK LAS VEGAS 2009 – AGTA EXHIBITS Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 29 May – 2 June 2009 SWISS WATCH BY JCK (by appointment only) Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 29 May – 2 June 2009

50 Jeweller / November 2008

ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2585 6179 E salesafj@cmpasia.com www.AsiaFJA.com 18-21 June 2009 ELITE SALOON 2009 Sochi, Russia SOUD - Sochi Exhibitions JSC T+ 33 1 4267 9912 E alf@soud.ru www.soud.ru 18-21 June 2009 JCK NEW DELHI 2009 New Delhi, India Reed Exhibitions T + 120 3840 4800 E amarprit.kaur@reedexpo.co.uk www.jckgroup.com 27-30 June 2009 JOVELLA Tel-Aviv, Israel Stier Group Ltd T + 972 3562 6090 E expo@stier-group.com www.stier-group.com 30 June – 2 July 2009

T + 603 9058 8772 E exhibition@elite.com.my www.elite.com.my 8-11 July 2009 HYDERABAD JEWELLERY, PEARL & GEM FAIR Hyderabad, India CMP Asia Group T + 91 022 6612 2600 E jewellery@ubmindia.com www.jewelleryfair.in 9-12 July 2009 BEIJING INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR Beijing, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com 17-20 July 2009 JA NEW YORK New York, USA VNU Expositions T + 1 64 6654 4983 E drew.lawsky@nielsen.com www.ja-newyork.com 26-29 July 2009 SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Singapore Singapore Conference and Exhibition Management Services Pty Ltd T + 65 6278 8666 E judy@cems.com.sg www.cems.com.sg 30 July - 2 August 2009

August

JMA MACAU Macau, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com June TBA

AUSTRALIAN OPAL EXHIBITION Surfers Paradise, Australia Australian Opal Exhibition T + 61 4 2792 0474 E mail@austopalexpo.com.au www.austopalexpo.com.au 6-7 August 2009

July

THE INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Mumbai, India Signature Goa T + 91 22 2389 4957 E tom@gjepcindia.com http://www.iijs-signature.org/ 6-10 August 2009

20TH CHINA WATCH JEWELLERY & GIFT FAIR (CWJF) Shenzhen, China Shenzhen Watch & Clock Association T + 867 55 8294 9443 E oversea@ewatch.cn www.fair.ewatch.cn 2-5 July 2009 INTERJEWELLER 2009 Sochi, Russia SOUD - Sochi Exhibitions JSC T+ 33 1 4267 9912 E alf@soud.ru www.soud.ru 7-13 July 2009 MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR (MIJF) Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Hong Kong - Asia Exhibitions

AMBERMART - 10. INTERNATIONAL AMBER FAIR Gdansk, Poland Gdansk International Fair Company T + 48 5 8554 9155 E amberif@mtgsa.com.pl www.ambermart.pl 27-29 August 2009 GLDA LAS VEGAS HIGH FASHION, JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW Las Vegas, USA Pan American Enterprises LLC T + 1 52 0743 8180 E info@panamericanenterprises.com

http://www.panamericanenterprises.com/ 30 August – 1 September 2009 JAA JEWELLERY FAIR Sydney, Australia Expertise Events T + 61 2 9452 7575 E info@expertiseevents.com.au www.expertiseevents.com.au 30 August – 1 September 2009 BORNEO INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR (BIJ) Sabah, Malaysia Hong Kong - Asia Exhibitions T + 60 3 9058 8772 E exhibition@elite.com.my www.elite.com.my August TBA INDONESIA JEWELLERY FAIR Surabaya, Indonesia Indonesia Jewellery Fair T+ 62 2 1572 3707 E dewi_jewellery@cbn.net.id http://www.rssjewelry.com/modules/extcal/event.php?event=236 August TBA JAPAN JEWELLERY FAIR Tokyo, Japan CMP Asia Group T + 813 5296 1020 E JJF@cmpjapan.com http://www.japanjewelleryfair.com August TBA

September HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR Hong Kong, China Hong Kong Trade Development Council T + 852 1830 6688 E exhibitions@tdc.org.hk www.hkjewellery.com 2-6 September 2009 YUVELIR 2009 Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 4-15 September 2009 FACETS SRI LANKA 2009 Colombo, Sri Lanka Sri Lanka Gem and Jewellery Association T+ 941 1259 7226 E facets@facetssrilanka.com www.facetsgemshow.com 5-8 September 2009 ORHOPA Paris, France Parc Floral de Paris T + 33 1 44 31 82 30 E info@orhopa.fr www.orhopa.fr 6-8 September 2009


CMP Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179 Fax : (852) 3749 7542 / 7319 Email : salesjwf@cmpasia.com Website : www.JewelleryNetAsia.com


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AUTUMN FAIR BIRMINGHAM Birmingham, UK NEC Birmingham T + 1 44 20 7728 5424 E visit@autumnfair.com www.autumnfair.com 6-9 September 2009 BISUTEX – INT. GIFT, JEWELLERY & FASHION JEWELLERY WEEK Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 9-13 September 2009 IBERJOYA Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 9-13 September 2009 CHOICE – INT. EXHIBITION OF GOLD JEWELLERY & SILVERWARE Vizenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 12-16 September 2009 INTERNATIONAL WATCHES & JEWELLERY TRADE FAIR Salzburg, Germany Pretiosa Diamonds T + 43 6 6246 870 E frank@cmw.at www.pretiosa-diamonds.at 18-20 September 2009 ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Ltd T + 852 2585 6179/ 2516 1677 E salesafj@cmpasia.com www.AsiaFJA.com 21-24 September 2009

HONG KONG JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 1677 E janicechik@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 21-25 September 2009 (AsiaWorld Expo )/ 23-27 September 2009 (Convention & Exhibition Centre) INTERNATIONAL WATCH & CLOCK FAIR Dubai, United Arab Emirates International Exposition T + 971 4340 6888 E info@intexdubai.com www.intexdubai.com 26-29 September 2009 HODINY A KLENOTY (WATCHES & JEWELS) Prague, Czech Republic Incheba Praha T + 42 02 2010 3307 E v.voriskova@incheba.cz www.incheba.cz 30 September – 3 October 2009 SHENZHEN INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com September TBA

October

INTERGEM Munich, Germany Intergem Nesse GmbH T + 0 67 814 1015 E office@intergem.de www.intergem.de 2-5 October 2009 VALENZA GIOIELLI Valenza, Italy AOV T + 39 01 3194 1851 E aov@interbusiness.it www.valenza.org 3-6 October 2009

JEWELLERS & WATCHMAKERS INC NEW ZEALAND Auckland, New Zealand JWNZ Inc. T + 64 03 337 6576 E info@jwnz.co.nz www.jwnz.co.nz 4-5 October 2009 ISTANBUL JEWELLERY SHOW II Yesilkoy, Istanbul Rotaforte T + 90 21 2519 0719 E Hanzade@rotaforte.com www.rotaforte.com.tr 15-18 October 2009 KOSMIMA 2009 - 24TH INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION Attiki, Greece Helexpo T + 30 2310 291 177 E kosmima@helexpo.gr www.helexpo.gr 16-19 October 2009 JA NEW YORK New York, USA VNU Expositions T + 1 64 6654 4983 E drew.lawsky@nielsen.com www.ja-newyork.com 25-27 October 2009 27TH MIDEAST WAzzCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW 2009 Sharjah, United Arab Emirates Expo Centre Sharjah T + 97 1 6577 0000 E info@expo-centre.ae www.expo-centre.co.ae 29 October – 2 November 2009 MINERALIENTAGE Munich, Germany Mineralientage Facmesse T + 49 8 9613 4711 E info@mineralientage.de www.mineralientage.de 30 October – 1 November 2009

November GEM EXHIBITION Tampere, Finland Tampere Trade Fairs Ltd T + 35 82 0770 1222 E asiakaspalvelu@tampereenmessut.fi www.tampereenmessut.fi 13-15 November 2009 JEWELLERY ARABIA Manama, Bahrain Arabian Exhibition Management T + 973 550 033 www.aeminfo.com.bh 17-21 November 2009 CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY AND GEM FAIR Shanghai, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 1677/ 2585 6197 E visiting@jewellerynetasia.comm http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions/ 26-29 November 2009 WATCHES AND JEWELS Bratislava, Slovakia Incheba Expo Bratislava T + 421 2 6727 2648 E mmihockova@incheba.sk www.incheba.sk November TBA

December MINERALIEN HAMBURG INT. GEOLOGICAL TRADE FAIR Hamburg, Germany Hamburg Messe und Congress T + 4 9403 5690 E mineralien@hamburg-messe.com www.hamburg-messe.de 4-6 December 2009 YUVELIR 3 Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 4-14 December 2009

Region

By region America (including South America) JA NEW YORK (WINTER SHOW) New York, USA VNU Expositions T + 1 64 6654 4983 E drew.lawsky@nielsen.com www.ja-newyork.com 18-20 January 2009

52 Jeweller / November 2008

GLDA LAS VEGAS GEM Nevada, USA GLDA Inc. T + 1 52 0792 9431 E exhibitors@glda.com http://www.artofjewellery.com 25-27 January 2009

JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE Miami, USA Jewelers International Showcase T + 1 56 1998 0205 E jisshow@aol.com www.jisshow.com 31 January – 2 February 2009

PUEBLO GEM AND MINERAL SHOW Tucson, USA Tucson West Hotel Associates LLC T + 1 31 0586 6815 E info@pueblogemshow.com www.pueblogemshow.com 31 January – 12 February 2009

GEM, STONE & JEWELLERY SHOW Tucson, USA American Gem Trade Association T + 2 13 629 3030 E info@jogsshow.com www.jogsshow.com 30 January – 10 February 2009

J.O.G.S. GEM & JEWELLERY SHOW Tucson, USA J.O.G.S. T + 2 13 629 3030 E info@jogsshow.com www.jogsshow.com 31 January – 10 February 2009

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Tucson, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 31 January – 13 February 2009



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TUSCON BEAD RENAISSANCE SHOW Michigan, USA J & J Promotions, L.L.C. T + 5 75 894 1293 E beadshow@aol.com www.beadshow.com 2-9 February 2009 2009 GLDA ANNUAL TUSCON GEM & JEWELLERY SHOW Tucson, USA GLDA Inc. T + 1 52 0792 9431 E info@glda.com www.glda.com 3-8 February 2009 AGTA GEM FAIR Tucson, USA American Gem Trade Association T + 2 14 742 4367 E info@agta-gtc.org www.agta.org 4-9 February 2009 WORLDWIDE GEM & JEWELLERY SHOW Tucson, USA Worldwide Gem & Jewellery LLC T + 1 52 0882 4200 E laurel@gjxusa.com www.wgjusa.com 4-9 February 2009 TUCSON GEM & MINERAL SHOW Tucson, USA Tucson Gem & Mineral Society T + 1 52 0322 5773 E tgms@tgms.org www.tgms.org 12-15 February 2009 ATLANTA JEWELLERY SHOW Atlanta, USA SJTA- Southern Jewellery Travellers Association T + 1 800 241 0399 E info@atlantajewelryshow.com www.atlantajewelryshow.com 28 February - 2 March 2009 MJSA EXPO NEW YORK New York, USA Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America T + 1 40 1274 3840 E CindyMcKenna@mjsa.org www.mjsainc.com 8-10 March 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Detroit, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 27-29 March 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Minneapolis, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832

54 Jeweller / November 2008

E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 5-6 April 2009 JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE Miami, USA Jewelers International Showcase T + 1 56 1998 0205 E jisshow@aol.com www.jisshow.com 18-20 April 2009 THE INSTORE SHOW – THE SMART JEWELRY SHOW Chicago, USA INSTORE and INDESIGN Magazines P + 847 918 9495 E Jim@instoremag.com www.theinstoreshow.com 19-21 April 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW West Springfield, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 24-25 April 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Orlando, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 1-3 May 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Franklin, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 8-10 May 2009 GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Branson, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 15-17 May 2009 2009 GLDA LAS VEGAS GEM & JEWELLERY SHOW Las Vegas, USA Pan American Enterprises LLC T + 1 52 0743 8180 E info@glda.com http://www.glda.com/ 25-28 May 2009 JCK LAS VEGAS 2009 - EDUCATION Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 28-29 May 2009

THE LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE, JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW Las Vegas, USA DMG World Media T + 23 9732 6642 E andreacanady@dmgworldmedia.com www.dmgantiqueshows.com 28 May – 1 June 2009

JA NEW YORK New York, USA VNU Expositions T + 1 64 6654 4983 E drew.lawsky@nielsen.com www.ja-newyork.com 25-27 October 2009

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS GEM SHOW Las Vegas, USA Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, Inc. T + 1 60 1879 8832 E info@glwshows.com www.glwshows.com 29-31 May 2009

Australasia (including middle east)

LAS VEGAS BEAD RENAISSANCE SHOW Las Vegas, USA J & J Promotions, L.L.C. T + 5 75 894 1293 E beadshow@aol.com www.beadshow.com 29-31 May 2009 JCK LAS VEGAS 2009 – AGTA EXHIBITS Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 29 May – 2 June 2009 SWISS WATCH BY JCK (by appointment only) Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 29 May – 2 June 2009 JCK LAS VEGAS 2009 – JCK EXHIBITS Las Vegas, USA Reed Exhibitions T + 1 20 3840 5651 E dhanson@reedexpo.com www.reedexpo.com 30 May – 2 June 2009 JA NEW YORK New York, USA VNU Expositions T + 1 64 6654 4983 E drew.lawsky@nielsen.com www.ja-newyork.com 26-29 July 2009 GLDA LAS VEGAS HIGH FASHION, JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW Las Vegas, USA Pan American Enterprises LLC T + 1 52 0743 8180 E info@panamericanenterprises.com http://www.panamericanenterprises.com/ 30 August – 1 September 2009

MACAU JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR Macau, SAR CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 2158 E kenlau@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 8-11 January 2009 SOUTH INDIA JEWELLERY SHOW (SIJS) Bangalore, India The Art of Jewellery T + 91 8025 201 687 E vinodkaul@artofjewellery.com http://www.artofjewellery.com 16-18 January 2009 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO (IJT) Tokyo, Japan Reed Exhibitions, Japan T + 813 3349 8503 E nishimurak@reedexpo.co.jp http://www.ijt.jp/english/ 21-24 January 2009 TOKYO INTERNATIONAL WATCH FAIR (TWF) Tokyo, Japan Reed Exhibitions, Japan T + 813 3349 8503 E nishimurak@reedexpo.co.jp http://www.twfjapan.jp/english/ 21-24 January 2009 IIJS SIGNATURE GOA (Exclusive show for the Indian Jewellery Exporters) Kala Academy, Goa, India T + 91 22 2389 4957 E tom@gjepcindia.com http://www.iijs-signature.org 20-23 February 2009 GEM & JEWELLERY INDIA INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION 2009 Chennai, India MJDMA & CMP India T + 91 9999 505 514 E Nigelb@ubmindia.com http://www.artofjewellery.com 25-27 February 2009 BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELLERY FAIR Bangkok, Thailand Thai Gem & Jewelry Traders Association T + 662 630 1390 E info@bangkokgemsfair.com www.bangkokgemsfair.com 25 February - 1 March 2009



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CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Shenzhen, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 2116 E janicechik@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions/ 26 February – 1 March 2009 HONG KONG AIRPORT INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Asia World Expo, Hong Kong Neway Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E info@newayfairs.com www.newayfairs.com February TBA ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2585 6179
 E kenlau@cmpasia.com www.AsiaFJA.com 4-7 March 2009 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Hong Kong, China Hong Kong Trade Development Council T + 852 1830 6688 E exhibitions@tdc.org.hk www.hkjewellery.com 4-8 March 2009 MALAYSIA INT. JEWELLERY FAIR - SPRING EDITION Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Hong Kong - Asia Exhibitions T + 603 9058 8772 E exhibition@elite.com.my www.elite.com.my 13-16 March 2009 JAA AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY FAIR 2009 Brisbane, Australia Expertise Events T + 61 2 9452 7575 E info@expertiseevents.com.au www.expertiseevents.com.au 15-16 March 2009 ISTANBUL JEWELLERY SHOW I Yesilkoy, Istanbul Rotaforte T + 90 21 2519 0719 E Hanzade@rotaforte.com www.rotaforte.com.tr 18-22 March 2009 MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL GOLD & JEWELLERY FAIR 2009 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Hongkong-Asia Exhibition (Holdings) Ltd. T + 852 2591 9823 E rajo@hka.com.hk 20-23 March 2009

26th MIDEAST WATCH AND JEWELLERY FAIR Sharjah, United Arab Emirates Expo Centre Sharjah T + 971 6577 0000 E info@expo-centre.ae www.expo-centre.co.ae 7-11 April 2009 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR CHINA Shanghai, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com April TBA CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Guangzhou, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 1677 E salescjw@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 9-12 May 2009 JEWELLERY SHANGHAI 2009 Shanghai, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com 13-16 May 2009

JMA MACAU Macau, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com June TBA

JAA JEWELLERY FAIR Sydney, Australia Expertise Events T + 61 2 9452 7575 E info@expertiseevents.com.au www.expertiseevents.com.au 30 August – 1 September 2009

20TH CHINA WATCH JEWELLERY & GIFT FAIR (CWJF) Shenzhen, China Shenzhen Watch & Clock Association T + 867 55 8294 9443 E oversea@ewatch.cn www.fair.ewatch.cn 2-5 July 2009

BORNEO INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR (BIJ) Sabah, Malaysia Hong Kong - Asia Exhibitions T + 60 3 9058 8772 E exhibition@elite.com.my www.elite.com.my August TBA

MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR (MIJF) Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Hong Kong - Asia Exhibitions T + 603 9058 8772 E exhibition@elite.com.my www.elite.com.my 8-11 July 2009

INDONESIA JEWELLERY FAIR Surabaya, Indonesia Indonesia Jewellery Fair T+ 62 2 1572 3707 E dewi_jewellery@cbn.net.id http://www.rssjewelry.com/modules/extcal/event.php?event=236 August TBA

HYDERABAD JEWELLERY, PEARL & GEM FAIR Hyderabad, India CMP Asia Group T + 91 022 6612 2600 E jewellery@ubmindia.com www.jewelleryfair.in 9-12 July 2009

JAPAN JEWELLERY FAIR Tokyo, Japan CMP Asia Group T + 813 5296 1020 E JJF@cmpjapan.com http://www.japanjewelleryfair.com August TBA

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY KOBE (IJK) Kobe, Japan Reed Exhibitions, Japan T + 813 3349 8503 E nishimurak@reedexpo.co.jp http://www.ijt.jp/english/ 14-16 May 2009

BEIJING INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR Beijing, China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com 17-20 July 2009

ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2585 6179 E salesafj@cmpasia.com www.AsiaFJA.com 18-21 June 2009

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Singapore Singapore Conference and Exhibition Management Services Pty Ltd T+ 65 6278 8666 E judy@cems.com.sg www.cems.com.sg 30 July - 2 August 2009

JCK NEW DELHI 2009 New Delhi, India Reed Exhibitions T + 120 3840 4800 E amarprit.kaur@reedexpo.co.uk www.jckgroup.com 27-30 June 2009 JOVELLA Tel-Aviv, Israel Stier Group Ltd T + 972 3562 6090 E expo@stier-group.com www.stier-group.com 30 June – 2 July 2009

AUSTRALIAN OPAL EXHIBITION Surfers Paradise, Australia Australian Opal Exhibition T + 61 4 2792 0474 E mail@austopalexpo.com.au www.austopalexpo.com.au 6-7 August 2009 THE INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Mumbai, India Signature Goa T + 91 22 2389 4957 E tom@gjepcindia.com http://www.iijs-signature.org/ 6-10 August 2009

HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR Hong Kong, China Hong Kong Trade Development Council T + 852 1830 6688 E exhibitions@tdc.org.hk www.hkjewellery.com 2-6 September 2009 FACETS SRI LANKA 2009 Colombo, Sri Lanka Sri Lanka Gem and Jewellery Association T+ 941 1259 7226 E facets@facetssrilanka.com www.facetsgemshow.com 5-8 September 2009 ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Ltd T + 852 2585 6179/ 2516 1677 E salesafj@cmpasia.com www.AsiaFJA.com 21-24 September 2009 HONG KONG JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR Hong Kong, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 1677 E janicechik@cmpasia.com http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com 21-25 September 2009 (AsiaWorld Expo )/ 23-27 September 2009 (Convention & Exhibition Centre) INTERNATIONAL WATCH & CLOCK FAIR Dubai, United Arab Emirates International Exposition T + 971 4340 6888

56 Jeweller / November 2008


E info@intexdubai.com www.intexdubai.com 26-29 September 2009 SHENZHEN INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR China Neway International Trade Fairs T + 852 2561 5566 E jewelry@broex.com www.newayfairs.com September TBA JEWELLERS & WATCHMAKERS INC NEW ZEALAND Auckland, New Zealand JWNZ Inc. T + 64 03 337 6576 E info@jwnz.co.nz www.jwnz.co.nz 4-5 October 2009 ISTANBUL JEWELLERY SHOW II Yesilkoy, Istanbul Rotaforte T + 90 21 2519 0719 E Hanzade@rotaforte.com www.rotaforte.com.tr 15-18 October 2009 27TH MIDEAST WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW 2009 Sharjah, United Arab Emirates Expo Centre Sharjah T + 97 1 6577 0000 E info@expo-centre.ae www.expo-centre.co.ae 29 October – 2 November 2009 JEWELLERY ARABIA Manama, Bahrain Arabian Exhibition Management T + 973 550 033 www.aeminfo.com.bh 17-21 November 2009 CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY AND GEM FAIR Shanghai, China CMP Asia Group T + 852 2516 1677/ 2585 6197 E visiting@jewellerynetasia.comm http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions/ 26-29 November 2009

Europe (including Russia) BIJOUTEX Munich, Germany Heinz Kohl Fachausstellungen Gmbh T + 49 7 1817 9515 E info@kohl-fachausstellungen.de www.bijoutex.de 2–4 January 2009 PRINT’OR Chassieu, France Agor T + 33 1 4431 8225 E sdevesly@agor.net www.printor.fr 11-13 January 2009

FIRST - VICENZAORO WINTER Vicenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 11-18 January

IBERJOYA MADRID Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 18-22 February 2009

YUVELIR 2 Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 15-23 May 2009

FIRST - JEWELLERY TECHNOLOGY FORUM Vicenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 12-13 January 2009

INHORGENTA EUROPE 2009 Munich, Germany Messe Munich International T + 49 89 9491 1398 E info@inhorgenta.de www.inhorgenta.de 20-23 February 2009

CHARM – INT. EXHIBITION OF GOLD JEWELLERY, SILVERWARE & WATCHES Vizenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 16-20 May 2009

BISUTEX - INTERNATIONAL GIFT & FASHION JEWELLERY WEEK Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 14-18 January 2009

SIBJEWELRY 2009 Novosibirsk, Russia The Siberian Fair T + 7 3832 106 290 E welcome@sibfair.ru www.sibfair.ru 25-28 February 2009

BIJORHCA - ECLAT DE MODE Paris, France Reed Expositions, France T + 33 1 4756 5282 E info.bijorhca@reedexpo.fr www.bijorhca.com 30 January – 2 February 2009 SPRING FAIR BIRMINGHAM Birmingham, UK NEC Birmingham T + 1 44 20 7728 3949 E visit@springfair.com www.springfair.com 1-5 February 2009 JUNWEX 2009 St Petersburg, Russia Restec Exhibitions Company
 T + 7 81 2303 9876
 E conf@rjexpert.ru www.rjexpert.ru 4-8 February 2009 KOSMIMA ATHENS EXCLUSIVE 2009 Attiki, Greece Helexpo T + 30 2310 291 162 E grhelexpo@helexpo.gr www.helexpo.gr 6-9 February 2009 CARAT Budapest, Hungary Hungexpo T + 36 1263 6341 E kincses.erika@hungexpo.hu http://www.hungexpo.hu 12-15 February 2009 AMBIENTE FRANKFURT Frankfurt am Main, Germany Messe Frankfurt GmBT T + 49 2 8296 0455 E doris.schnyder@germany.org.au www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com 13-17 February 2009

YUVELIR VESNA Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 27 February – 7 March 2009 AMBER TRIP 2009 - THE INT. BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW Vilnius, Lithuania UAB Amber Trip T + 3 70 5260 8495 E info@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com 5-8 March 2009 AMBERIF 2009 - 16. INT. FAIR OF AMBER, JEWELLERY & GEMSTONES Gdansk, Poland Gdansk International Fair Company T + 48 5 8554 9155 E amberif@mtgsa.com.pl www.ambermart.pl 11-14 March 2009 LUXURY BERMUDA Bermuda Reed Exhibitions T + 1 41 6756 8250 E stemple@reedexpo.com www.jckgroup.com 15-18 March 2009 30TH EDITION OROAREZZO: ­INTERNATIONAL GOLD, SILVER & JEWELLERY TRADE FAIR Arezzo, Italy Centro Promozionie Servizi T + 39 0575 9361 E cenaco@ats.it www.oroarezzo.it 21-24 March 2009 BASELWORLD WATCH, CLOCK & JEWELLERY SHOW Basel, Switzerland MCH Swiss Exhibition P + 41 58 206 25 25 E info@baselworld.com www.baselshow.com 26 March – 2 April 2009

CHARM - VICENZAORO SPRING Vicenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 16-20 May 2009 NEW RUSSIAN STYLE Moscow, Russia Restec Exhibitions Company
 T + 7 812 320 80 99
 E secur@restec.ru www.rjexpert.ru 29 May – 1 June 2009 ELITE SALOON 2009 Sochi, Russia SOUD - Sochi Exhibitions JSC T+ 33 1 4267 9912 E alf@soud.ru www.soud.ru 18-21 June 2009 INTERJEWELLER 2009 Sochi, Russia SOUD - Sochi Exhibitions JSC T+ 33 1 4267 9912 E alf@soud.ru www.soud.ru 7-13 July 2009 AMBERMART - 10 INTERNATIONAL AMBER FAIR Gdansk, Poland Gdansk International Fair Company T + 48 5 8554 9155 E amberif@mtgsa.com.pl www.ambermart.pl 27-29 August 2009 YUVELIR 2009 Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 4-15 September 2009 ORHOPA Paris, France Parc Floral de Paris T + 33 1 44 31 82 30 E info@orhopa.fr www.orhopa.fr 6-8 September 2009

Jeweller / November 2008 57


{ feature }

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2009

AUTUMN FAIR BIRMINGHAM Birmingham, UK NEC Birmingham T + 1 44 20 7728 5424 E visit@autumnfair.com www.autumnfair.com 6-9 September 2009

VALENZA GIOIELLI Valenza, Italy AOV T + 39 01 3194 1851 E aov@interbusiness.it www.valenza.org 3-6 October 2009

BISUTEX – INT. GIFT, JEWELLERY & FASHION JEWELLERY WEEK Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 9-13 September 2009

KOSMIMA 2009 - 24TH INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION Attiki, Greece Helexpo T + 30 2310 291 177 E kosmima@helexpo.gr www.helexpo.gr 16-19 October 2009

IBERJOYA Madrid, Spain Ifema - Feria de Madrid T + 34 9 0222 1515 E infoifema@ifema.es www.ifema.es 9-13 September 2009

MINERALIENTAGE Munich, Germany Mineralientage Facmesse T + 49 8 9613 4711 E info@mineralientage.de www.mineralientage.de 30 October – 1 November 2009

CHOICE – INT. EXHIBITION OF GOLD JEWELLERY & SILVERWARE Vizenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 12-16 September 2009

GEM EXHIBITION Tampere, Finland Tampere Trade Fairs Ltd T + 35 82 0770 1222 E asiakaspalvelu@tampereenmessut.fi www.tampereenmessut.fi 13-15 November 2009

VICENZAORO AUTUMN Vicenza, Italy Fiera di Vicenza T + 39 04 4496 9964 E carolina.lotto@vicenzafiera.it www.vicenzafiera.it 12-16 September 2009 INTERNATIONAL WATCHES & JEWELLERY TRADE FAIR Salzburg, Germany Pretiosa Diamonds T + 43 6 6246 870 E frank@cmw.at www.pretiosa-diamonds.at 18-20 September 2009 HODINY A KLENOTY (WATCHES & JEWELS) Prague, Czech Republic Incheba Praha T + 42 02 2010 3307 E v.voriskova@incheba.cz www.incheba.cz 30 September – 3 October 2009 INTERGEM Munich, Germany Intergem Nesse GmbH T + 0 67 814 1015 E office@intergem.de www.intergem.de 2-5 October 2009

WATCHES AND JEWELS Bratislava, Slovakia Incheba Expo Bratislava T + 421 2 6727 2648 E mmihockova@incheba.sk www.incheba.sk November TBA MINERALIEN HAMBURG INT. GEOLOGICAL TRADE FAIR Hamburg, Germany Hamburg Messe und Congress T + 4 9403 5690 E mineralien@hamburg-messe.com www.hamburg-messe.de 4-6 December 2009 YUVELIR 3 Moscow, Russia Yuvelir-exhibitions T + 7 49 5417 6765 E avpexpo@inbox.ru http://www.rosyuvelirexpo.ru/ 4-14 December 2009


{ Fair }

kok g n a Bdoes well, considering… The Bangkok Fair was held during a Thai “state of emergency”. COLEBY NICHOLSON was there to see how it was business as usual.

N

o one opens jewellery trade fairs as well as the Thais. While “ceremonial” openings are far more prevalent at Asian shows, with a range of dignitaries and politicians usually in attendance, it is the Bangkok Gem and Jewelry Fair that exceeds all other fairs. The Bangkok fair usually opens with a dance performance and fashion parade and then a dazzling light show, but perhaps because of the underlying political situation, the recent September edition was exceptional. A media release from the organiser said it best: “The five-day fair opened with an air of cautious optimism that the Thai jewel industry should be able to ride-out the local political development”. The Thai political issues and their corresponding media coverage certainly had an impact on the event, which was hit by a wave of late cancellations that left a small amount of exhibition space vacant. The government had declared a state of emergency in September, just nine days before the fair, Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) president Vichai Assarasakorn noting that he had quite a few sleepless nights hoping the event would not be affected: “We received a lot of calls and faxes from exhibitors and visitors asking about the situation and asking whether they should still come or not.” After some initial investigation and some assurances, TGJTA felt confident to advise to people that, “the situation would be safe,” but spreading this message to as many as possible was another problem. Assarasakorn added, half-jokingly, that his job had been tougher ever since the 2006 September fair when the Royal Thai Army staged a coup d’état against the elected government of caretaker prime minister

Thaksin Shinawatra. All in all, he clarified, the fair “held” its numbers and, despite the word from the stands that visitors had definitely been affected, conditions were ideal for purchasing as the accessibility to the larger and more popular stands and exhibits improved. The Thai Department of Export promotion released figures showing that there was a 30 per cent increase in export value in the first six months of the year to $US3.66 billion. This places the jewellery industry as the country’s fourth-largest export; however, much of that increase is explained by the increase in raw materials, mainly gold. Figures showed all countries had increased their trade with Thailand with Australia now in second, ahead of the US and behind Hong Kong. Given that the country was in a “state of emergency”, it was amazing to note the normality of the fair – the political upheaval nowhere near distracting enough to quell the hectic business scene of Bangkok. As far as future plans go for the Thai industry, Assarasakorn said that they are still concentrating on the four emerging markets of China, India, Middle East and Russia. The first three are obvious but Russia is an important market because of that population’s love of coloured stones. Coleby Nicholson attended the Bank Gems and Jewelry Fair courtesy of the organiser. The next fair will be from 25 February - 1 March, 2009.

THAI EXPORTS TO AUSTRALIA ($US Million) Period: Jan - July (7 months)

2007

2008

Total Exports

197.08

885.42

Deduct Gold bullion trading

-160.32

-819.87

36.76

65.55

Jewellery Only

The chart shows a 78 per cent increase in jewellery imports this year (January to July) over the same period in 2007.

Jeweller / November 2008 59


Indian

glitz

60 Jeweller / November 2008


{ Fair }

Not even a tough economic climate could stop the IIJS from reaching an important milestone. COLEBY NICHOLSON was there to witness the festivities.

T

he India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) recently celebrated its 25th edition and what the show lacks in world-class exhibition facilities, it makes up with glitz and glam. From the opening event through to the last day, the fair featured gala dinners, fashions parades, awards nights and cocktail parties that drew a procession of famous Bollywood actresses, Indian celebrities and, of course, cricketers. The fair itself has outgrown its modest ­surrounds, which do not measure-up to the quality of the product inside, but Indian officials are confident that a new international s­ tandard exhibition building will be constructed in ­Mumbai in coming years. Regardless of this, nothing could stop visitors pouring into the event. According to the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), there were more than 28,000 visitors in attendance, as well as 800 exhibitors. Not even a new hall could accommodate the massive demand from Indian suppliers for exhibition space, only satisfying 50 per cent of those on a “waitlist”. The fair has grown every year since it was first established in 1985 with 34 participants at the Taj Hotel. Indian diamond and jewellery manufacturing has grown to a $US20 billion industry, becoming one of the country’s most important exports and foreign exchange earners. Comparatively, the IIJS is reported to be the fifth largest in the world. India is recognised as the world’s largest manufacturer of cut and polished diamonds and according to Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) statistics, total exports of gems and jewellery from April 2007 to March 2008 reached $US20.88 billion, up from $US17.08 billion for same period the year before. That’s a 22.27 per cent increase, so it is

no wonder the fair continues to grow on the back of such strong industry results; however, it will be interesting to see next year’s results following the closure of a ring of diamond manufacturers in the past six months – the diamond sector directly employs nearly one million people according to GJEPC. Council chairman Sanjay Kothari is pragmatic, recognising that, although overall exports were up, “growth is a result of increased trading activities as actual manufacturing has shown a decline”. He attributes this fact mainly to the gold price and the international economic climate. But most of this was put aside in typical Indian fashion, with the sensationally produced nightly festivities, held at five-star hotels around Mumbai all adding an upbeat feel for the fair. Coleby Nicholson attended the IIJS courtesy of the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council. The next fair is scheduled for August 6-10, 2009.

Local Market India’s love of jewellery dates back 5,000 years and is recognised for its gold, beads, gems and precious stones. Jewellery features heavily in Indian gift-giving, especially during festivals such as Diwali, the Festival of Lights. The festival is celebrated throughout the country to dispel darkness and light-up the lives of the young and old, the rich and the poor. Stretching across four days, Diwali symbolises unity in diversity as all 28 Indian states celebrates in their own special way. Propelling this love of adornment, it is no wonder that the country has over 300,000 jewellery retailers. That’s an incredible number, and although not all are “retailers” in the traditional sense – many are mere kiosks – they still employ a huge number of people – Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council estimates some three million people. Quite extraordinary for a country with an official population of 1.1 billion.

Rio Tinto and India India is the world’s largest manufacturer of diamonds, so it’s understandable that the country has a close relationship with mining giant Rio Tinto. Rio Tinto managing director Bill Champion discussed the company’s 25-year association with the Indian Diamond Industry in a speech at the fair’s official opening. Speaking about the future for Asian countries in next 20 years, Champion predicted that 1.4 billion people would move from rural locations to cities – a movement that would see an increased spend on consumer and luxury items. He noted that the Indian diamond industry had a favourable political and business climate in which to operate. According to Rio Tinto’s 2008 Annual Review, the company expects “real diamond and jewellery demand growth of approximately three per cent a year for the next decade” and cites the key drivers of this growth as “growth in GDP per capita, disposable income, cultural preferences and market saturation. Increased globalisation will continue to drive overall GDP growth and urban household income growth in the world’s major cities.” The same report states, “Diamond jewellery sales in China and India have entered a period of accelerated growth fuelled by the rapid change and progress in these two markets.” Champion believes the Indian jewellery industry is witnessing an increase in imports in the last few years, which have shot up to 170 per cent over the past few years to reach $US5.4 billion. He said half of Rio Tinto’s client base was Indian and the firm would support them with differentiated products. It has a strong commitment to diamond exploration and has spent around $US5 million in India alone. While the US remains the main driver of diamond demand in overall value terms, the developing economies of China, India and the Middle East are expected to contribute significantly to future diamond demand.

Jeweller / November 2008 61


TIPS

part-time problems The use of part-timers at Christmas can cost a business more than it saves. Leonard Zell reports.

If part-timers are needed, hire them well in advance. Plan for the future and create valuable salespeople well before Christmas.

62 Jeweller / November 2008

Golden selling opportunities will be missed this holiday season because it is too easy to sell. In fact, how much “selling” is done at Christmas? Not much, because customers are closing most of the sales themselves. A common mistake is for managers to believe that all they need are warm bodies to handle the traffic. “Get those part timers,” they will say. “Anyone can sell in December.” This kind of attitude is going to cost jewellers a lot of money. Part time salespeople are fine if they have previously worked in the store because they know the merchandise, policies and often the customers. They won’t make those costly mistakes new part timers are ­certain to make, such as the all-time classic error of leaving a junior, untrained salesperson in charge of high-end merchandise because a store was too busy to restrict that salesperson to selling inexpensive jewellery. Customers don’t want to hear, “That’s not my department,” or, “I’m new here, but if you can wait someone will help you.” Sure, there may not be much time to train part time salespeople if they are hired when it starts ­getting busy, but what happens when that staff member loses a $3,000 diamond sale? When confronted with this situation, a poor manager gets visibly upset in front of all staff and then never does anything about it. Just think how demeaning that is and the negative effect it has on the store as a whole. Many owners think they are ­saving money by hiring ­inexperienced part timers without

training them. They do it every year and it works out well for them but they would be shocked if they knew how much money they were losing in sales. So what should be done? Firstly, get more productivity out of present sales staff by observing the average length of time each salesperson spends with customers. It is usually way too much. Some staff may regularly take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour, or even more! If owners think these bad habits will stop when it gets busy, they are not being realistic, or worse, they are in denial. The same salespeople will still spend time explaining the four Cs, showing tray after tray or, worse, discussing subjects not even related to jewellery. How long can someone talk about one piece of jewellery? Eventually they do stop, but instead of knowing when and how to close the sale, they then let their customer try on everything in the store, during which time they talk about the weather, sports, travel or anything just to fill the awkward silence. Now, it is fine to spend time with a customer but preferably that time is being used to create ­add-on sales. In this case, the salesperson is stalling because they find it difficult to bring the customer back to the piece of ­jewellery they are trying to sell them. If owners allow this wasteful use of time in their stores, they will have no choice but to hire more salespeople than necessary during the holidays. As soon as a customer comes into the store, the meter is running and staff must make good use of their time. Here are some ways to do this: • Stop unnecessary conversation;

talk about the jewellery and the occasion. • Avoid playing, “Can you top this.” Stop one-upping customers and let them have the last word. This will abruptly end non-relevant conversations and steer the conversation back to jewellery. • Take control of the sale and stop customers from dragging staff from one counter to another. Don’t get into show and tell. • Leave the ego behind. Stop showing off technical expertise by reeling off loads of unnecessary data on diamonds, gems and jewellery. This is boring, and it stalls the sales process. The only ego that counts during a sale is the customer’s one. • Watch out for subtle closing signals from customers and respond by closing the sale. • Add-on sales are easier than the first sale. Extra time should be directed towards add-on sales or even upselling. Use these points to educate staff before busy periods occur. It’s almost guaranteed to save money on wages. If part-timers are needed, hire them well in advance. This allows for training, which is in the business’ best interests. It is not fair to throw part timers into the deep end and then to criticise them for errors. Instead, plan for the future and create valuable salespeople well before Christmas. Any investment on human resources is sure to return many times over t

Leonard Zell has been training jewellers throughout the world for 25 years. Go to www.zellit.com or email zellit@aol.com.


MANAGEMENT

Fit for Christmas A healthy Christmas period is no gift. Instead, it is the result of careful planning and preparation according to Lorraine Caruso, director, The Retail Doctor Group. So many businesses are counting on a strong Christmas trading period. Months of planning have gone into bringing in the right stock and ­hiring the right staff, and a great deal will be invested in marketing to drive traffic into the store. Still, the ­question remains: how can ­retailers be sure they are maximising their sales opportunities? The following is a list of ­indicators to help maximise sales potential in peak-trading months. Pick the right team: this is a big one. If key people are not on when the traffic is at it’s highest, the store won’t do its best business. Rosters will need to change in the Christmas period to correctly reflect the shift in trading hours and customers’ buying patterns. Have key staff rostered on for high-traffic trading times of the week and make sure there are enough staff to handle the traffic. Sell, sell, sell: when the store is open, staff need to be selling. Don’t have them performing other tasks that would be done outside trading hours. Start staff one hour before the store opens and use that time to stock windows and cabinets. Discuss the ­importance of being sales-focused and ­allocate jobs for after closing. Organise the storeroom: time is money and nothing wastes more time than a disorganised ­storeroom. Make it as easy as possible for the shop floor to be restocked by having high-turnover items accessible and fully-stocked. Know exactly what the stock levels are and whether there is enough merchandise to get through Christmas. Re-order anything that looks as though it will run out. If the store is not equipped with an inventory

t­ racking system, an exercise book listing stock quantities (regularly updated) should do the trick. Add-on sell: there is serious value to be had in add-on sales. Pick one or two products that complement the majority of the product range, keep it at a lower price point and have plenty in stock around the store, especially the point-of-sale counter. Gift pack products: beautifullypackaged multiple products are an easy way to raise the average sale price and make Christmas shopping a little easier for the customer. Have a few different price points for broader appeal and urge sales staff to point them out wherever appropriate. Call poor performance: it only takes one team member to bring down the morale of a team. Don’t accept mediocrity and only keep champion service providers. If a staff member is struggling on the sales floor, take them aside for a chat. Refresh them on some tried and tested sales techniques and motivate them to go back onto the floor with enthusiasm. They’ll soon be selling like the others. Open first, close last: extend regular trading hours to take advantage of impulse, last-minute and drive-by shoppers. Be open longer than the competitor and let customers know. Most importantly, never ever start closing with a customer in the store. Have fun: keep the shopping experience fun. Find a way to bring the store to life in a way that other retailers can’t or aren’t. Employ a Christmas theme or specific window display. Offer small Christmas gifts or refreshments for in-store browsers. Get them in and keep them in.

Make all resources available: to support the sales staff, the business must ensure other staff members are on-hand, perhaps even taking on extra work. In the case of a multi-store retailer, the head office must be operating throughout the Christmas trading period. This is not the time for admin staff to take their leave. A recent experience in a high profile jewellery chain suggested that the message about staff priorities had either not been received or had not been implemented. A visiting area manager had realised that the business’ latest catalogue product was not clearly on display, greatly reducing the sales team’s chance of securing a sale. A good tool is to put some easy guidelines in place for every store team to follow on a daily basis. This can be as simple as a daily “set up” checklist that covers the most important procedures. Is the latest promotional material positioned in the agreed place? Are promoted product lines in a prominent and agreed position? Have all rostered team been briefed on promoted lines and product benefits? It may look simple and it’s supposed to be. During the busy trading times, simple is best as it sets the team up to deliver on organisational objectives. Follow these guidelines to ensure staff are ready to sell this Christmas t

Extend regular ­trading hours to take advantage of impulse, last-minute and ­drive-by shoppers. Be open longer than the competitor and let customers know.

Lorraine Caruso is a Director of The Retail Doctor Group, Australasia’s leading retail consultant company specialising in the diagnosis and delivery of deliverable retail operations solutions. Phone 0419 225 581or visit www.retaildoctor.com.au.

Jeweller / November 2008 63


REAL REALLIFE LIFE

discuSsing design After the recent JAA Australian Jewellery Design Awards, Jeweller asks the winners for their thoughts on jewellery design. This month’s question is: How would you describe Australian jewellery design? DESIGNER RESPONSES I couldn’t give a definitive answer on it as a whole because I think Australia’s designs and styles are different from shop to shop. As long as competitions like the JAA awards keep running, then design in Australia can only head in a positive direction. My desires for the future of the industry is for everybody to keep doing their own thing so we can have a trulydiverse outlook on jewellery as compared to the rest of the world. Luke Jackson, Verity Showcase Jewellers – winner Apprentice of the Year and Apprentice Design/ Craftsmanship Award Australian jewellery design is a ­little conservative but with time, and the rapid changes in ­technology, it can only advance. I would like to see the consumer become less conservative and more open to new ideas like the use of coloured diamonds and gemstones in their jewellery. Perhaps this could come from e ­ xposing the youth and ­making them more aware of what’s p ­ ossible. Liana Coetsee, Nina’s ­ Jewellery – winner Computer Aided Design Award Over the years, we have seen an increase in interest in unique c­ ontemporary design; ­unfortunately, big, bold pieces and even coloured gemstones are not in high demand. At the m ­ oment, the main influence seems to be in Hollywood glam, where pieces are generally very glitzy and ­over-worked. So, we see a lull in the mainstream market in clean and crisp lines.

64 Jeweller / November 2008

We wish people would look less to Hollywood and the ­jewellery the stars are wearing, and develop a stronger desire to be unique. To have a wide market appeal in Australia, jewellery stores need to have diamonds, diamonds and diamonds. Thomas Melihofer and ­Stacey ­Illman, Thomas Melihofer ­Jewellery Design – winners Grand Prix Award Jeweller of the Year and Coloured Gemstone Award. Even in the few years since my arrival here, I feel the design of Australian jewellery has changed shape. I can see the European ­influence coming through from both young Australian and European designers, mixing the tradition and style of Europe with the unique Australian flavour. Monika Droste, Venerari – winner Gold Design Award Australian jewellery design is ­really quite innovative, sadly a little under resourced, though. There are so many craftspeople in Australia who individually don’t have the resources to market themselves particularly well, yet they’re p ­ roducing a great product. Design competitions are ideal for this, however only if they get enough mainstream media s­ upport. What you are ­promoting then is the desire not just for jewellery in the broad sense but for a consumer to go looking for a great designer and/ or c­ raftsperson to make them something special. It’s all about creating this demand which unfortunately doesn’t really complement the standard retail model of mass-produced, ­discounted items “off the shelf.

The more consumers are ­asking for a bespoke experience, the greater the diversity of designers and jewellers they will have to choose from. Which comes first? We always have the constraints of the buying public, which in ­Australia tend to be on the conservative side. Consumers love to look at new designs, but it doesn’t often materialise into ­changing their purchasing ­decisions. It doesn’t mean they don’t buy ­well-made and ­well-designed jewellery, just not the really avant-garde stuff. It doesn’t stop you ­making them for fun though! – Jason Ree, Jason Ree Design – winner, Platinum Design Award I would like to see the custom designing and manufacturing of jewellery reach new heights in Australia and for ­customers to ­realise that they can get ­world-class jewellery designs locally. I believe that we have a lot of very talented designers here in ­Australia, and I feel privileged to have received an award alongside some of the best. Ryan Silvester, Jewellery By ­Design – winner Apprentice Design Award Australian Jewellery Design ­borrows from everywhere else, yet there is an Australian ­interpretation, which I think comes from geographic ­isolation and the lack of restraints of tradition. Some design-orientated jewellery is heading towards ­acceptance in an up-market sense. The style of mainstream jewellery now appears to be ­becoming much finer, ­indicating the obvious need for quality craftsmanship. Restrictions occur

due to the demand for safe, classical designs in jewellery, yet I would hope that, with the showcasing of high-quality contemporary designs using precious and alternative materials, we can develop a hint of local flavour. Denzil Price, Tiaura – winner Pearl Design Award As a total newcomer to jewellery design, I can only express my wonder at the diversity of form and design that was on display at the awards night. I was excited to see that nature and this land inspire other designers too. Looking at all of the entries, the pieces that stood out were the ones that contained something unique and weren’t generic designs that have, in the past, dominated the jewellery market. Australian design as a whole is gaining greater confidence in expressing an Australian identity. Jewellery design embodies a ­personal expression of that identity. Since the apology to the Stolen Generation earlier this year, it is my observation that Aboriginal culture has been ­recognised as being at the heart of our collective Australian identity and ­collaborations like ours is an ­exciting future direction for ­jewellery design in Australia. By recognising new talent through the awards, the industry allows us to showcase our designs to the world. Alison Page – winner Diamond Design Award (retail value up to $5,000) t

REAL LIFE is a new column designed to share the real life retail experiences of running a business and offer advice on the best approach for each scenario.


CALENDAR

WHAT’S ON: DECEMBER SUN

MON

DECEMBER BIRTHSTONE: TOPAz

7

TUE

WED

THU

FRI SAT

1

2

3

4

5

6

8

9

10

11

12

13

Birthstone for December: Blue Topaz

You cannot shake hands with a clenched fist.

School holidays commence QLD, NT, SA 12/12/08

– Indira Gandhi

14

15

16

17

18

22

23

29

26

25

Capricorn begins: Zodiac Stone: Ruby

28

20

School holidays commence NSW, VIC, ACT 19/12/08

School holidays commence WA 16/12/08

21

19

Christmas Day 25/12/2008

31 New Year’s Eve 31/12/2008

Boxing Day / Proclamation Day (SA) 26/12/2008

Sales tip of the month Consistency counts Managers can ensure their staff are always selling well by addressing the following points, according to Brian Walker, Retail Doctor: • Have weekly sales targets for your team and individuals within your team. • Record the targets and achievements openly within the team. • Managers should have an individual coaching session with each sales employee based on their individual sales performance (targeting the actual statistic). • Have clearly outlined job descriptions with a weighting on sales achievement. This article first appeared in The Retail Barometer newsletter. Visit www.retaildoctor.com.au for more information.

Jeweller / November 2008 65


SOAPBOX

Brand loyalty Independent jewellers who promote branded jewellery are at risk of losing sales if that brand breaks through, according to Rhonda Ferraro, Ferraro Jewellers.

RHONDA FERRARO Company: Ferraro Jewellers Position: owner Qualifications: jeweller Years in industry: 30

66 Jeweller / November 2008

After 30 years in this industry as a qualified jeweller and recently opening my first store, I must express my disappointment at the lack of ethics of some wholesalers who turn their back on customer loyalty merely to chase a buck. What constitutes customer loyalty between wholesalers and retailers you ask? Well, a mere phone call to say, “We will also be supplying our brand to someone else in your shopping centre” would be a nice place to start. I’m also concerned that, after I’ve done all the hard work to promote branded jewellery in my store by distributing brochures, erecting stands and advertising and promoting the product, these brands will be popular enough to open their own boutique retail outlets or start selling to major retailers. In doing so, will they forget about the humble independent who did all the hard work promoting their brand in the first place? I certainly hope not. In the case of my business, a wholesaler of sterling silver jewellery who supplies me is now selling to a lotto agency, newsagent and chemist in the same shopping centre as my store. It seems the wholesaler felt the need to do this to supplement poor sales brought on by an apparent lack of support from jewellery stockists like myself. While I only made a small purchase to stock in my shop, the newsagent saw the supplier at a recent gift fair and placed a large, $5,000 order. When I contacted this supplier,

I was told I did not do enough to support the brand in my store. I was very disappointed. Needless to say, I no longer stock this brand, but focus instead on the companies that understand how to operate according to the Australian way that all in the industry should abide by. Furthermore, stocking this brand in such non-jewellery stores as chemists and newsagents has cheapened the image of the silver products we sell in our store, as the newsagents and lotto agencies can retail the stock at a much lower price than we do, thanks to their lower overheads. My customers also comment on how they’re reluctant to buy from a newsagent and chemist because it seems too cheap. Quite simply, I don’t believe precious jewellery should be supplied to stores like this. I could almost guarantee that sales of this brand in my store would have been slow if I had have continued to stock it. I cannot compete with newsagents and chemists with all the additional running costs I have. These include the need for greater security, better product packaging, jeweller’s block insurance and so forth. It is hard enough to run a jewellery shop today, let alone having to compete with lotto agencies, newsagents and chemists selling the same brands at a lower price. I was a big fan of stocking designer sterling silver jewellery in my shop and still do stock certain pieces from other sterling silver suppliers who operate ethically. I will continue to be supportive of wholesalers that are loyal and ethical. These companies will

be around long-term – you can ­definitely count on that. But when you have to compete within your own shopping centre with lotto agents and the like, it makes me wonder why I bother promoting branded silver companies in my store. Do suppliers restrict the kinds of stores they supply? Yes, some do, and it is a pleasure to deal with these companies. I prefer to do business with companies that do abide by a code of ethics. Unfortunately, though, there are the cowboys that enter our industry just to chase the dollar instead of trying to run an ethical business that prides itself on customer loyalty and supporting those who support you. In the end, a courtesy phone call would have sufficed, just to check there was no conflict created in stocking neighbouring, non-jewellery stores with the same brands. Most companies do this anyway. My advice to other retailers is to choose your supplier wisely and ask lots of questions before you decide to stock their product in your store. And only support the companies that continue to support you t If you would like to appear in Soapbox and have your say, please contact the editor on 03 9696 7200 or email: ajed@gunnamattamedia.com.au



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