Smoked Salmon, Labneh Cheese and Levivot (Latkes)

By Chef Dalia

And just like that, it’s time to light the candles of Hanukkah. Some people are still held hostage in the Gaza Strip, hundreds of thousands of people are still evacuated from their homes in Israel’s north and south, and many millions still haven’t slept a full night, worried about their loved ones fighting on the frontlines. And yet, like always, time does move on and here we are, on the brink of the most wonderful time of the year — Hanukkah, the festival of light.

We hope that Hanukkah, the most fun festival on the Jewish calendar, will bring some light into our lives this year. No fasting is required, nor is rigorous cleaning, travel, or sitting across the table from a dead fish’s head. Instead, you just sit back with the family, devour deep-fried food and receive copious gifts.

There’s no argument that the holiday of lights is one of Judaism’s all-time favorite holidays when it comes to fun. Some of my strongest memories of being Israeli are associated with the comforting smells of Hanukkah family meals. I hadn’t even realized how much those aromas had been a part of my childhood until now.

It’s not a secret that I am a big fan of healthy food along with a gluten- and dairy-free diet, but Hanukkah has its own character. Since Hanukkah comes once a year, I allow myself to break from my healthier diet. I don’t support turning a donut or latkes into something less fattening. Any attempt to turn a donut into a baked donut, with sugar-free jam and vegan sweeteners or zero-calorie powdered sugar, does not work, in my opinion.

For Jews of Eastern European descent, who make up the majority of Jews in the United States, latkes (potato pancakes) take the spotlight. But in Israel, sufganiyot (jelly doughnuts) are as popular there as latkes are here.

Every year, the range of doughnuts in Israeli shops becomes wider and yummier. But there is a victim of the Israeli love relationship with doughnuts: the latkes. There’s no doubt that potato latkes, levivot in Hebrew, have been displaced by doughnuts.

Today, unless you are a recent immigrant from the West or a guardian of Ashkenazi traditions, chances are that latkes do not feature in your Chanukah celebrations. However, for most American Jews, Hanukkah would not be Hanukkah without latkes.

I wanted to share the first Hanukkah dish with you before the beginning of the festival of fried food: Israeli potato latkes. My potato pancakes are simply divine, probably the tastiest potato dish you have ever tried. (Don’t miss next month’s recipe, which will be sufganiyot).

Latkes are usually made from grated potatoes or mashed potatoes. In this recipe, I combined them and add my “secret ingredient,” fried onions, as well. I recommend that you make a double recipe, because these pancakes are snatched up before you finish frying them.

Applesauce and sour cream are the traditional accoutrements for latkes. Some load their potato pancakes up with both toppings, while others have strong feelings about one over the other. I say, don’t feel constrained by these “old standards.” Try something new this year!

Labneh (Middle Eastern cheese) and smoked salmon on fresh latkes are one of my favorite combinations. It tastes like an elevated meal. The combination of the tangy, cream-cheese-like labneh and savory smoked salmon is such an epic combination. Plus, salt, pepper, zaatar spice, chickpea and pine nut all on fresh latkes … I get so excited just thinking about it!

We serve it every year at the Hanukkah celebration organized by Jewish Federation of Greater Naples at Mercato in Naples. It is a hit if you want to eat really tasty food, feel fancy while doing it, and not shuffle through a long and complicated recipe to make it.

Visit us at the Hanukkah celebration at Mercato this year, which takes place on Dec. 26.

Smoked Salmon, Labneh Cheese and Levivot (Latkes)

Ingredients

For Latkes

• 1 pound medium potatoes (red skin is the best), cooked and mashed into a smooth puree

• 1 pound large potato, grated

• 2 medium onions, chopped and fried (until golden brown)

• 3 tablespoon potato flour

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 teaspoon black paper

• 2 eggs

• Canola oil (for semi-deep frying)

For Topping

• 7 ounces smoked salmon

For Labneh

• 17 ounces Greek yogurt

• 1 teaspoon sea salt

To serve

• 1 cup canned chickpea

• 1/2 cup pine nut

• 1 tablespoon zaatar spice

Directions

1. To make the latkes, in a big bowl, mix together the mashed potato, grated potato and fried onion.

2. Add eggs and mix well.

3. Fold in potato flour, salt and black pepper until just combined.

4. Let the mixture rest on the side for about half an hour.

5. Drop a spoonful of batter into hot oil (160 F).

6. Fry in semi-deep oil for about three minutes on each side.

7. To make labneh, mix the salt into the Greek yogurt. Line a fine mesh strainer with a piece of clean muslin or cheesecloth. Spoon the Greek yogurt and salt into the cheesecloth, and fold over to cover. Leave to drain in the strainer or if possible, hang the cheesecloth in fridge over a bowl (to catch drained liquid), for at least eight hours. It should turn into a soft cheese.

8. To assemble, top each latke with a teaspoonful of labneh, and then a thin slice of smoked salmon. Arrange some of the chickpea pine nuts and zaatar spice on top and serve.