JEZ Magazine - Portugal's shining stars

from JEZ Magazine - First issue

by jezmagazine

IAN BOHEN

Actor. Activist.

GOOD PEOPLE ISSUE

BEAUTY. PASSION.

FRANCISCO CATEDRAL

Makeup artist and Lash Extensions expert

257 W38th St Manhattan, NY 10018 Phone: 646.493.8860 thelashandbeautystudio.com info@franciscocatedral.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

OUR

first issue of JEZ truly comes from the heart. I’ve wanted to create a publication that reflects who I am, and celebrates the people who inspire me everyday. After decades of working in the fashion industry and living in the spectacular New York City, I’ve been fortunate enough to have encountered some of the most talented and pioneering individuals in the world.

After a recent and unexpected health scare, I’ve learned a truly ivaluable lesson: I want to give more and I want to do more. Our very first issue of JEZ magazine will be launching in partnership with Together1heart, a charity organization that saves young girls from human trafficking.

Hello fabulous reader,

We strive to continue partnering with more meaningful causes along the way, shining a light on both local and international human rights issues.

We hope to immerse you into a world of original fashion, authentic luxury and vivid creativity. Most importantly: we hope to encourage a spirit of positivity, generosity and philanthropy.

This one is for the passionately curious ones, the luxury-loving yet globally conscious human: one who, like me, strives to be a little better everyday.

Happy reading, EZ Editor-in-chief

ON THE FRONT COVER:

PHOTOGRAPHER EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA @EZEQUIELDELAROSA

WITH IAN BOHEN

LOCATION LOS ANGELES

T-SHIRT FROM ALL SAINTS

JEANS BY DIESEL

ON BACK COVER:

PHOTOGRAPHER EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA @EZEQUIELDELAROSA

MODEL CAROL ALT

TOP BY STORYTAILORS

HAIR WILKER TOSTES

@WILKER_TOSTES

MAKEUP LEA LOURO @LEA_LOURO

PRODUCTION RUI ARAUJO @RUIZAO_KING

LOCATION PESTANA PALACE, LISBOA

PESTANA PALACIO DO FREIXO, PORTO

CONTRIBUTORS

NEW YORK LOCATION: EZ Studios | 325 W. 37th Street | Ground 3 Floor | New York, NY 10018

THE PORTUGUESE INTERVIEWS

WESTWORLD

PHOTO BY: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA

HEART WITHA CROWN

One of Portugal’s shining stars sheds a light on global issues.

Catarina Furtado is a woman of many hats. As a well-loved TV host, actress, documentarian and UNFPA Goodwill ambassador for Portugal, her confident presence and passion for her various projects is palpable. A long-time supporter of human rights, she has started her own NGO in Portugal, Corações com Coroa which translates to Hearts with a Crown. She explains the name came from the idea that everyone can have a crown in their heart if they have a mission that is connected to improving the lives of others. With a focus on empowering women and girls, her organization has also provided scholarships for various women facing hardships.

She was inspired to pursue her philanthropic goals after meeting several wealthy and high profile individuals throughout her TV career, realizing most of them seemed to have some inexplicable emptiness in their lives, a void she thought could be filled by

being a little less self-absorbed and giving back to others. Growing up in Portugal, her mother was a teacher for special needs children, and her father was a journalist who told her several shocking stories of children around the world who were facing abuse and neglect. As a young girl, she was aware of how fortunate she was and longed to someday have the opportunity to give back: A wish that came true after fulfilling her dreams of making it in the entertainment industry.

Having travelled to Cape Verde, East Timor, Guinea-Bissau and many other developing countries, Catarina has successfully brought attention to some of the world’s most dire regions. Her book, O Que Vejo e Não Esqueço, (What I see I do not Forget), vividly recounts her work as a global human rights activist. With a spirit that ceaselessly aims to make the world a better place, Catarina is truly the Queen of Hearts.

Written By Victoria DeBlauss

Backstage at Porto Fashion Week

Outfits: Katty Xiomara Models: Joana Graca and Dania Darie Makeup Artist: Maite Tuset

BACKSTAGE AT PORTO FASHION WEEK OUTFITS: KATTY XIOMARA MODELS: JOANA GRACA AND DANIA DARIE MAKEUP Hair: ARTIST: Vasco MAITE Freitas TUSET HAIR: VASCO FREITAS

910

PHOTOGRAPHER: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA SHOES BY LUIS ONOFRE

MAKEUP: D’ANGELO THOMPSON HAIR: ANTONIO THIGPEN MODEL: KATHRYN CARTER FROM CLICK MODELS

The interviews

Portugalis thriving

with culture and creativity. Meet some of the country’s most talented designers

...

Interviews by Tyson Murphy

If you’ve seen one of Katty Xiomara’s designs, chances are you’re in awe

of the ultra femininity and timelessness of her pieces. JEZ had a chance to catch up with the award winning designer, to ask her a few questions about her beautiful work.

Since becoming a designer, how has the industry changed and what excites you most about it? It has changed significantly, both in the way fashion is made, and in the way that it’s bought: Everything changes at an increasingly accelerated pace. The most exciting thing is that fashion is still important in highlighting what makes an individual unique.

Inspiration helps drive design and aesthetic. What inspires you and your current collection? The brand is very personal. It reflects the way I face life, whether from a fictionalized or realistic viewpoint. The inspiration comes from different spectrums, from the musical to the social, from the arts and objects in our day- today. But, yes I have my preferences - art, architecture and design.

Which designers inspired you to become one yourself? Many… Courrèges, Dries Van Noten, Paul Smith…

If you could narrow it down to 3 words, how would you describe your collection/design aesthetic? Playful, Feminine, Confident.

PHOTO BY: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA

Ines Torcato is a name you’ll be hearing more and more frequently throughout fashion circles. New to the Portuguese fashion scene, her designs are an excellent combination of simplicity and sophistication, detail-oriented and sleek. We chatted with the up and coming designer about her brand and her inspirations.

Since becoming a designer how have you seen the fashion market change and what excites you most about it? I have a very young career as a fashion designer, but the fashion market here in Portugal has changed a lot since I began designing while I was studying. We went through a big economic crisis and although we are still recovering from it, the sector that has suffered the most is the creative industries. I feel that people are now becoming more interested in buying fashion from national designers instead of the usual mass-produced ones. I also see a huge change design-wise, which excites me the most. There are so many new and different perspectives in fashion and that is the most amazing thing about this industry. Its great that the general public is starting to accept the new aesthetics that are appearing.

What challenges do you think still exist in the fashion industry specifically for designers? The fashion industry is a very challenging market for designers starting brands independently. There are a lot of obstacles we have to overcome with regards to sales, production costs and producing small quantities. The industries are wary of supporting young designers and it’s hard to find manufacturers that agree to produce the small quantities we need to do the fashion shows and the few sizes we need to start selling, and to produce lookbooks and campaigns in order to have material to send to buyers.

Inspiration helps drive design and creative types. What inspires you? My inspiration comes from classical pieces such as the shirt, suit, overcoat, trenchcoat, pleated skirt, etc… and from real people. My work is based on deconstructing those classical pieces in sometimes weird and unexpected ways; using unexpected materials and shapes. But I always stay true to myself and my own identity as an individual and as a designer, that is why my collections are always called Self-Portraits. Because I actually believe that what defines my work is my personality, and the constant analysis I make of the human behaviour. This current collection has a subtitle which is Mirror because it’s about the interactions we have with other people, the way those interactions reflect in ourselves and how we are reflected in others. I also love to do mirrored pieces for both men and women which, although not genderless, are the same piece adapted for the different body types of the different genders.

Which designers inspired you to become one yourself? My father is in the fashion industry so watching him work since I was a young girl has influenced me to becoming a designer myself. The designers I always followed and loved were Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and Comme des Garçons.

If you could narrow it down to 3 words, which ones would you use to describe your collection/design aesthetic? I would say Dark, Deconstructed and Tailored!

PHOTO BY: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA

From stunning hues of pink and gold, to mischievous strappy black, Luis Onofre’s expertly designed heels are every woman’s dream. A cross between fairytale and femme fatale,we just had to know more about the mind that created them.

Since becoming a designer how have you seen the fashion market change and what excites you most about it? I started the brand Luis Onofre in 1999, but my relationship with the fashion market started even earlier because I belong to the 3rd generation of a family that has always been linked to the production of footwear and has always responded to the demands of a constantly changing market. To the extent that fashion is a preview of the future, it is normal to switch constantly between new ideas and new approaches. I am used to changes and I like them. The important thing is to always focus on the essential characteristics that define our identity and equity. In addition to the search for the new, I think that proximity and speed were the biggest changes. We are all closer and perhaps more eager for products, ideas and concepts. We always expect more from a global world.

What challenges do you think still exist in the fashion industry specifically for designers? Anticipate trends, follow technological innovations and meet the demands of an increasingly attentive consumer. If we are Thinking of luxury, we must know how to integrate technology with the delicacy

of craftsmanship to keep our products unique and special. But if I had to link it all to one idea it would be keeping up with our momentum.

Inspiration helps drive design and creative types. Where does yours usually come from and what main factors inspire your current collection and/or design aesthetic? Inspiration is everywhere. It is neither a unique nor exact moment. We are always receiving and sharing information, through travel, movies, art and culture. Everything can be an inspiration and everything is information. I’ve made collections with watch mechanisms and collections inspired by indigenous artefacts. There are no limits.

Which designers inspired you to become one yourself? I would say Ferragamo and other Italian classics but my grandmother was also a closer and bigger influence. Being with her as a child in our family factory was essential to my formation.

If you could narrow it down to 3 words, which ones would you use to describe your collection/design aesthetic? Elegance, sophistication and quality.

17Portuguese designer Luis Buchinho is a force to be reckoned with. Having won Best Fashion Designer at the 2010 and 2012 Fashion awards in Portugal, amongst many other accolades, he continues to amaze the fashion world with his original designs, interwining classical and modern details with structured and feminine silhouettes.

Since becoming a designer, how has the industry changed and what excites you most about it? I think it has changed a lot in the last years... too fast and a bit too much in my opinion. The consumer doesn’t have the proper time to observe and evaluate collections properly. The good thing about this change is that increasing competition forces you to continually give your best to seduce your customer.

What challenges do you think still exist in the fashion industry specifically for designers? Being noticed in a world filled with so much talent.

What inspires you and your current collection? I love illustration, comics and graphic design. A lot of my speech revolves around those. I’m also very aware of my emotional state, and everything that surrounds me or things that have influenced my life/and that , somehow, always show up in my collections.

Which designers inspired you to become one yourself? Claude Montana , Ann Demeulemeester, Helmut Lang.

If you could narrow it down to 3 words, how would you describe your collection/design aesthetic ? Pragmatic, graphic, timeless.

PHOTO BY: HUGO OSORIO

Miguel Vieira’s clothing line has become synonymous with masterful originality, glamour, and effortless elegance. 2017 was a big year for him: His recent collection was showcased at New York Fashion Week, Portugal Fashion Week and Milan Fashion Week, with the year culminating into a triumphant win: A GQ Man of The Year award for Best National Designer.

Since becoming a designer how have you seen the fashion market change and what excites you most about it? Since I started in my career I find it very exciting that people have become specialized in their fields. Make up artists; hair stylists, influencers and stylists have helped me bring my vision to life.

What challenges do you think still exist in the fashion industry, specifically for designers? I think for a lot of the new designers there’s the challenge of producing a line and staying afloat because the cost of producing can get rather expensive. Being able to have your line in stores… I feel very fortunate that I’ve gradually become established.

Inspiration helps drive design and creative types. What inspires you? My inspiration comes from life. Going out to dinner with friends, staying in hotels and observing the people around me. All of those things inspire me to create.

Which designers inspired you to become one yourself? I would have to say Yves Saint Laurent.

If you could narrow it down to 3 words, which ones would you use to describe your collection/ design aesthetic? Luxury, texture, comfort.

PHOTO BY: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA

Dynamic duo João Branco and Luis Sanchez have utilized their keen passion for storytelling and fashion to create the aptly named fashion brand, Storytailors. Their metaphorical garments have been showcased in well-known editorials across the globe. Establishing their home base in a fairytale like pre-eighteenth century building in Lisbon’s city center, they’ve extended their fantastical ideas to costume making for theatre, music and dance.

Since becoming a designer how have you seen the fashion market change and what excites you most about it? We have seen the fashion market change a lot. There was the growth of the mass market brands that altered the consumer’s perceived value of garments. It also spiraled the industry’s rhythm to a frantic extreme. It’s interesting to see that it conduced to a growing consciousness of the consumer and a desire for differentiated garments, and craftmanship, as a reaction to an excessively sped up system. That’s really exciting for us because those are values that define Storytailors.

What challenges do you think still exist in the fashion industry, specifically for designers? There’s all sorts of challenges. Creative wise, one of the challenges relates to menswear. There are still a lot of garment types that are only available in womenswear, like dresses and skirts; and style wise there is also a lot to do, especially now that men are increasingly receptive to fashion and novelty. Gender fluid garments are also a very exciting field to explore. In terms of the relation between the industry and designers, there are also a lot of challenges. For designers that have their own artistic label, they need small scale quality production of experimental/

original garments, which is hard to find, although some producers are starting to focus and specialise on those needs.

Inspiration helps drive design and creative types. What inspires you? We draw inspiration from everything that we feel emotional and passionate about. People, music, art, architecture, society, history, tales, culture, we translate that into storytelling or “Storytailoring”. The human body, proportion, cut and shape are also constant inspirations that fascinate us. We seek to extend the joy in the process of garment creating to the wearer, allowing him/her to play and create; contributing to his/her happiness. That inspires us. Passion and emotion are our drive.

Which designers inspired you to become one yourself? From recent designers to “Historical” ones, Nicolas Ghesquière, Viktor and Rolf, Alexander Mc- Queen, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Christian Lacroix, Gianfranco Ferré, are just some of the names.

If you could narrow it down to 3 words, which ones would you use to describe your collection/design aesthetic? Narrowing it down to one: Storytailors ;)

PHOTO BY: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA

DRESS BY MIGUELINA SCARF BY KAZUMI YOSHIDA

I had the pleasure of traveling to Portugal with my dear friend Carol Alt. You might know her as a supermodel and actress, whose unique charm and beauty has graced countless covers around the world. The epitome of “beautiful inside and out”, Carol is a soothing presence, a ball of fun, and a total health guru. I might’ve picked her brains a bit too often to find out what her secret was to staying so radiant and

youthful over the years. Her fountain of youth seems to be her genuine happiness. Upon landing abroad, most people would give in to jet-lag, but within hours, she was walking Miguel Vieira’s runway show and getting interviewed by dozens of reporters, all of which she handled with effortless grace. I’m honored to have her as JEZ’s first cover girl.

Written by Ezequiel De La Rosa

TOP AND PANTS BY MIGUEL VIEIRA SHOES BY MIGUEL VIEIRA

PHOTOGRAPHER EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA @

EZEQUIELDELAROSA MODEL

CAROL ALT WITH COOP MODELS HAIR

WILKER TOSTES @WILKER_TOSTES MAKEUP

LEA LOURO @LEA_LOURO PRODUCTION

RUI ARAUJO @RUIZAO_KING LOCATION

PESTANA PALACE, LISBOA PESTANA PALACIO DO FREIXO, PORTO

TOP & SKIRT BY MIGUEL VIEIRA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA @ EZEQUIELDELAROSA MAKE-UP: LEA LOURO PRODUCTS USED: LIPSTICK: MAKEUP FOREVER BLUSH: TERRACOTTA GUERLAIN NAILS: OPI EYESHADOW: NUBIAN BY JUVIA’S CONCEALER: HAKANSSON

DRESS BY MIGUEL VIEIRA

CORSET & SKIRT BY STORYTAILORS SHOES BY LUIS ONOFRE

CORSET AND PANTS BY STORYTAILORS

GOWN BY ZANG TOI

OVERCOAT BY LUIS BUCHINHO

SKIRT AND JACKET BY LUIS BUCHINHO

ROPE BY INES TORCATO SWIMWEAR BY ROSA FAIA

DRESS BY MIGUELINA SHOES BY CAT PERKINS

GOWN BY KATTY XIOMARA

SHOES AND DRESS BY KATTY XIOMARA

Photo Credit: Frank Lübke

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PHOTOGRAPHER: EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA @EZEQUIELDELAROSA MAKEUP:D’ANGELO THOMPSON HAIR:ANTONIO THIGPEN PRODUCTS USED: TEMPTU AIRBRUSH MAKEUP, MAKEUP FOREVER LIPSTICK PALETTE, LOREAL VOLUMINOUS MASCARA, ORIBE ROYAL BLOWOUT HEAT STYLING SPRAY

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PEOPLE TO FOLLOW

Miguel Vieira @miguelvieiraofficial

Luis Onofre @luisonofreofficial

Katty Xiomara @kattyxiomara_official

Ines Torcato @ines.torcato

Storytailors @storytailorsatelier

Luis Buchinho @mluisbuchinho

Catarina Furtado @catarinafurtadooficial

Rui Araujo @ruizao_king

Lea Louro @lea_louro

Wilkers Tostes @wilkers_tostes

Pestana Hotels @pestanahotels

TAP Airlines @tap_airlines

PEOPLE TO FOLLOW

Ian Bohen @ianbohen

Carol Alt @modelcarolalt

Annalynne McCord @ktheannalynnemccord

Angelo Musco @angelomuscostudio

Brad Walsh @bradwalsh

Christina Hammer @ladyhammer

Tao Fernandez @taofernandezcaino

Dana Taylor @danataylor2

Francisco Catedral @franciscocatedral

Victoria DeBlauss @victoriadeblauss

D’angelo Thompson @dtbeauty71

Sara Sist @sara.p.sist

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PHOTOGRAPH BY EZEQUIEL DE LA ROSA

This article is from:

JEZ Magazine - First issue