DIVE IN MAGAZINE
What is Rasta? Not Exactly what you thought
TOP TWO PLACES TO STAY SMART TRAVEL TIPS
On a Budget
Staying Safe
CHECK OUT THE BAR SCENE Off the grid: A trip to Pelican’s Bar
Summer 2013
“Because every little ting gonnabe alright”
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Drink Lots of Ting ©
From the Editor
Perfect Getaway “DO YOUR BEER BOTTLES NEED NIPPLES? DO YOUR JACKETS COME WITH MATCHING PURSES?” Dale, a 58-year-old T-shirt-clad Alaskan razzes my friends and me. It’s 40 degrees on his porch overlooking Lake, Alaska - grilling weather. Only moose burgers are stone cold, and Dale’s alpha-male status needs no defending. His forearm hair alone intimidates me. “So Eddy,” Dale says, “have you ever heard of Winnie-free Island?” His wife, Winnie, glares at him. Dale leads us to the forest below his house, insisting we walk separate lines through the woods so as not to tread a path that could be followed. I’m not sure anyone but Dale has visited Winnie-free Island. Any person, that is. “When you see a black bear stand tall, make noise. When you see a grizzly, play dead.” With that, Dale vanishes. Minutes later, we hear a buzzing sound behind, no, above us. An ominous figure approaches fast. It’s Dale, whizzing by on a zip line, wearing some sort of a ratty cape. We find him
at the bottom of the hill unpacking a burlap sack full of beer that, for the 17-second ride, was put on ice. Dale fires up a generator hidden by a bush. Lights flicker from a garage hidden by a hill. Inside are a Barcalounger, a big-screen TV, a Snap-on tool chest, a 250 cc motorbike. Dale’s man-cave, aka Winnie-free Island. Of course, it’s not a real island. But it came to mind because this issue targets hidden islands, whose paths to access are just now emerging. My advice? Go see them now. You know, before the zip lines. -Eddy Patricelli
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Summer 2013
IN THIS ISSUE
{ DIVE IN JAMAICA MAGAZINE }
Fe a t u r e s 6
CHEAP EATS
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RASTAFARI
There is nothing like finding a dive for great local food and atmosphere. From Jamaican Jerk to Lobster we have the inside scoop.
Forget the stereotypes! We take a look at the roots behind Rastafarianism and find uncover the truth behind the culture.
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TOURISM
STAYING SAFE
There’s a new trend in toursim, and it’s all about being green making a positive impact. We take a look at Sustainable Tourism.
A few reminders of how to stay safe and what items to bring on your trip. Forgetting something important like money or a passport is a bad thing.
W
hen you look for the perfect “get away from it all” experience then look no further than the Pelican Bar, a rustic wooden bar built on a sand bank a quarter of a mile out to sea, half way between Black River and Treasure Beach. The Pelican Bar is the perfect place to spend the day being busy doing nothing, sunbath, drink beer, swim in the shallow
waters, eat fresh fried fish or even bring along your fishing gear to catch your own dinner! The Pelican Bar quite literally began life as a dream, local fisherman Floyd Forbes dreamt one night of a bar built out to sea, resting on stilts. The clarity of the dream inspired Forbes to set about building this bar, which he did by transporting large planks of wood on his fishing boat. In 2001 the bar was completed and it was named “The Pelican Bar” after the large flocks of Pelicans who rested on the sand bank. It was originally used by Floyd and his friends to sit and take a break from a hard day’s fishing. However, it didn’t take very long for the local hotels to recognise the enormous potential of this picture perfect serenity. All was going well for Floyd until 2004 when Hurricane Ivan hit Jamaica. The Pelican Bar was totally destroyed by the
storm and Floyd had no insurance to cover the cost of the damage. However, the bar had become such an established attraction that local business owners knew that Treasure Beach could not afford to loose it. The owner of Jake’s hotel in Treasure Beach donated new wood and many others chipped in to help with the reconstruction. Within a month the Pelican Bar was back up and running. Many local fishermen are able to ferry you over to the bar from Treasure Beach or Black River - just ask in your hotel. The 20 minute journey may not suit those with delicate stomachs but the destination is definitely worth the trip. If you’re lucky you may even see dolphins swimming by your boat and some flying fish! Visit pelicanbarja.com
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CHEAP EATS
Cheap eats in Negril? Here are some favorites. These restaurants are largely focused on Jamaica’s West End: Easy Rock Internet Cafe - all day breakfast from $5US. Variety of filled bagels & sandwiches, fresh juices, healthy smoothies, Jamaica’s Blue Mountain Coffee, teas, home made cakes, iced cheesecakes, plus a full bar if you just want to hang out and have a drink. Easy Rock is definitely more than just the Internet! Serious Chicken far down the East End Road between Tensing Pen and Rockhouse (on the other side of the road). Say hi to Felix and admire Vicki’s photographs. Super fish salad and of course, “serious” chicken. Open for lunch and dinner 10am to 10pm or until the last drunk leaves. Three Dives Jerk Centre is located on West End Road past Rockhouse. Yes, they have off nights. It’s Jamaica and sometimes it takes patience, and they can be slow as molasses, but 3 Dives still has the best lobster dinners in the West End if not all of Negril and the jerk is killer too! It’s owner Jake Loward says,”You’re goingto feel like a local: just sayin’. You’ll know when you’ve arrived at true’local status when you start eating jer and acquire a Jamaican accent.”
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Rick’s Cafe - a great place to get local dishes ranging from conch to lobster. Their famous dishes in-
Good Grub
clude a spiced lobster soup and a jerk half chicken. Relax to the sounds of steel drums and watch the diving show. The locals come to the cliffs and dive into the crystal clear waters below. Join in the fun with a 20ft, 30ft, and 40ft dive into the cove too! For a extra kick pay a little extra and get a private cabana. There you get your own server and access to Rick’s pool. Half Moon - The lowest price for Lobster lovers and romantic too! They set a table right on the beach while you enjoy the sunset! They also make bonfires and torches on the beach while the sun goes down. Its only 20 minutes away from Negril towards Green Island. Dont miss it! Jacko and Jennys Restaurant - Authentic Jamaican restaurant with home cooked meals and local prices for everyone, located on West End Road just past Heartbeat Resort and next to Kush Art. They serve large portions of perfectly prepared Jamaican dishes. Jennys also makes an assortment of cakes and pies including the popular spice cake. Easy Rock Cafe: Serious Chicken: Three Dives: Rick’s Cafe: Half Moon: Jacko and Jennys:
1-974-938-9902 1-974-722-1985 1-974-1263-9845 1-974-872-2021 1-974-807-1903 1-974-265-8732
– jaislandspots.com
“You’re going to feel like a local; just sayin’. You’ll know when you’ve arrived at true ‘local’ status when you start eating jerk chicken and acquire a Jamaican accent.”
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So What is a Rasta?
The word “Rastafarianism” often calls to mind the stereotypical images of dreadlocks (long braids or natural locks of hair), ganja (marijuana), the streets of Kingston, Jamaica, and the reggae rhythms of Bob Marley. Rastafarians have no universally acknowledged leaders, no universally agreed-upon defining principles. It is a black consciousness movement—Afro-Caribbean—and there is a split between the religion and its accompanying social consciousness, so people can appreciate what Rastas are trying to do socially while not embracing the religion. The movement takes its name from the title “Ras Tafari.” In the Ethiopian (Amharic) language, ras means
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“head,” “prince,” or “field marshal,” and tafari means “to be feared.” Within the system of Rastafarianism, the term is a reference most particularly to Ras Tafari Makonnen (1892–1975), who became the Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie I (his Christian baptismal name) upon his coronation in 1930, when Selassie was lauded with the title “Lion of Judah, Elect of God, King of Kings.” This sent a shock wave through Afro-Caribbean culture. In the streets of Kingston, Jamaica, preachers like Joseph Hibbert started declaring that Haile Selassie was the long awaited Messiah, the second coming of Christ. Thus was born one track of Rastafari, which looked to Selassie as the living God and black
S. Michael Houdmann
messiah who would overthrow the current existing order and usher in a reign of blacks. Another track of Rasta has sprung up alongside the messianic track. This group traces its roots to Leonard Percival Howell and has definite Hindu elements. Sometime in the early- to mid-1930s, Howell produced a 14page pamphlet, “The Promised Key,” which laid the groundwork for a second track within Rastafarianism that is more Hindu-influenced with lots of Rosicrucianism in it. Many of the leaders in this track have also been Freemasons. The result has been a sort of Rastafarian pantheism that looks for “the Lion Spirit in each of us: the Christ spirit.”
album review
SNOOP LION Reincarnated
Reincarnated” is an attempt by Snoop Lion to transform himself from the gun-touting, violence-condoning, ho-slapping, gin-andjuice drinking gangsta rapper, to the anti-violence, peaceful, positive, socially conscientious reggae artist. Although the transition is hard to believe, I have to give it to Snoop; he did follow the “rules” of making a reggae/ dancehall album—a one drop drum, bass heavy rhythms, a song with horns, a singable chorus and at least a couple songs about weed. Check, check, check, check and check; although, Snoop never had much trouble incorporating the last rule. “Reincarnated” is overflowing with collaborators. In fact, a quick listen reveals that the collaborators dominate 11 of the 12 tracks on the album. The likes of Akon, Drake, Mr. Vegas and everyone’s favorite pot smoking, pop-princess Miley Cyrus all make an appearance. On the surface this is, without a doubt, an all-star line-up. However, even the casual fan doesn’t have to listen too deep to realize Snoop forgot an important part of his meaningful transition to a Rastafarian reggae star—namely, the appearance of a Rastafarian reggae act on the album. At best, “Reincarnated” is a mainstream, pop album infused with dancehall, roots-reggae and electronic elements, along with positive Rasta messaging—like ending gun and, gang violence. At worst, the album is a disingenuous cultural highjack by a music superstar, who is inclined do whatever he wants—because he can. I fall somewhere in the middle. Either way, at least now, we know that Snoop’s name is Lion.
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,
SLINKY PETE S
REGGAE
L I VSEI C ! MU
LIVE
BOB MARLEY TRIBUTE
F R I DAYS & SATURDAYS @
ROOFE CLUB
OCHOS RIOS ............................................................................................................................
ROLL WITH THE BEST
Written & Reviewed By: Kit Chalberg
LISTEN TO:
“No Guns Allowed” “Here Comes The King” “Ashtrays & Heartbreaks”
00 100% NATURAL
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Jamaica Builds
Sustainable Tourism Model The town of Bluefields, Jamaica, is best known as the home of Peter Tosh, an original member of Bob Marley and the Wailers. But in recent years, Bluefields has also built up a profile as a hidden seaside paradise of pristine white beaches, unspoiled by roves of peddlers hawking shell necklaces and hair braiding. The people of Bluefields say they have built a sustainable model for tourism that can inspire the nation and keep more foreign money on the island. It would be a desperately needed change. Tourism in Jamaica is worth about $2 billion (1.5 billion euros) a year, making it the biggest source of foreign exchange in the country. But most visitors come as part of package deals. That means as much as 80% of their dollars leak out of Jamaica’s economy, according to a 2011 study by the World
Bank. For just one example, hotel operators spent some $62 million on imported food in 2009, according to research conducted by the University of Florida.
The farmer’s bring their goods... straight to It’s a community their thing Guests often kitchens. buy the
Now, the residents of Bluefields say they have a way to change the tourism economy and funnel its profits back to Jamaica. Their flagship project is the Bluefields Bay Villas, a collection of six luxury properties set up for vacation rental 30 years ago. Each comes with a dedicated housekeeper, chef and a butler, but also with tables full of food from around the entire area. Local farmers supply fruit and vegetables, while fishermen bring fresh catch
exotic jams and hot pepper sauces offered with their meals. “The guests love it and they want to buy some and take it home, so everybody benefits,” says villas manager Carmen Hibbert. “The farmers bring their goods, the people who make the soap are close by, the ones who make the jams are near, so everyone makes money. It makes it a “real” community thing. Jamaica is home to about 2.7
million people. One of every nine citizens works in travel and tourism. So if the Bluefields model takes off, the reserve in an open boat. They said they saw a 700-pound fish, which would have been unheard of a few years ago.The community, which has about 25,000 people, is looking at also going organic. But Wolde Kristos, manager of the Bluefields’ People’s Community Association, says the government could do more to promote the town. “It’s no longer about where you go, it’s ‘I’m going to a brand,’” Kristos said. “Our government - that is always supposed to be neutral but it isn’t advertising Jamaica in a neutral way - they allow the all-inclusives to dominate. As a result we get left out.” The government says it’s looking to expand what’s being done in Bluefields across the enitre country. “Having guests getting to know people can really help us de-
velop our tourism. We want to institutionalize it, so we have it across the country,” the tourism minister, Wykeham McNeill, told DW. “I’m proud of what’s happening there.”
To find more about this issue go to: www.jamaica.org/issue Source: dw.de
F e a ut u r e d S u m m e r r e s o rt s 12
NEGRIL SAMSURA RESORT Samsara Hotel on the west end cliffs of Negril is famous for panoramic sea views, tranquility, and stunning beauty. Negril cliff hotels are known for exciting snorkeling, swimming, and scuba in clear Caribbean coves. Experience the best Negril hotels have to offer, including exchange privileges via free shuttle between hotels. Enjoy friendly service, homemade food, exotic cocktails, and romantic sunsets. Laze around doing nothing, or, fill your days with action packed tours, tennis, golf, scuba diving, and water sports on the Negril seven mile beach. www.samsura.com
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . eat swim relax and play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Montego bay fishermans point resort A beachfront location, a freshwater pool and kitchenettes with stoves and full-size refrigerators are welcome features at Fishermans Point Resort. Amenities include seating areas, satellite TV and kitchenettes with full-size refrigerators and stoves. The freshwater outdoor pool provides an ideal place to relax. Dunns River falls, Bob Marley Tribute Statue, and a great Margarittaville close by. Very affordable for budget travelers. www.mobayfpr.com
[ illegal]
T h e W e s t E n d , N e g r i l , e x e m p l i f i e s a s i m p l y b e a u t i f u l b e a c h a n d p i e r.
foreign travel
You should read foreign travel tips and bring your passport. Remember to check if its date is still valid.
closeness
Keep your important things such as your pssport, wallet, and electronics close to you or in a safe.
location
Always let close friends and family know where you are going. Always give them a number and email
Know How To Stay Safe? No matter where in the world you travel, it is always wise to read the news, stay safe and protect your property. Here are some tips to make your Jamaican vacation safe as well as fun: 1. Make sure you travel with a valid passport or visa (if required) Also, bring another valid form of photo I.D., and photocopies of both I.D.s. in case of loss or theft. 2. Read up on local laws and practices before you get here. 3. Give friends and family your contact information and itineraries in case of emergency. 4. Register with your country’s embassy or consulate before you travel. That way your country is aware of your whereabouts in case of emergency. 5. Keep luggage, handbags or backpacks in view at all times. 6. Keep possessions close to your body. 7. Don’t take around large amounts of cash. 8. Avoid wearing expensive jewelry on road-trips or excursions
Otherwise called Ganja, Marijuana was brought to Jamaica in the late 1800’s by the indentured East Indian labourers. They were brought to Jamaica (and most of the Caribbean Islands) work on the remaining plantations after slavery was finally ended. Today, although it is illegal in the country, Marijuana’s cultivation is still very much alive and well. In fact, evidence is now perhaps at an all time high. (no pun intended) Every now and then we hear reports of “King Fish”, a special police unit, intercepting large shipments or destroying crops and seedlings. By the way, the humidity in Jamaica’s environment and climate is considered a perfect place for the plant to grow year-round. But know it is illegal and if you get caught you will be heavily fined. jamaicawarondrugs.gov
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Explore Port Antonio’s
Hidden Beaches Port Antonio’s bigger beaches - Frenchman’s Cove, Winnifred and Boston Bay - are well-travelled, stunning locales. But tracking down the off-thebeaten-path beaches, such as Shanshy Beach and Ras Johnson’s Ranch, can be gratifying, providing you with serenity and good exposure to the authentic Jamaica and its rustic charms. Shanshy Beach Complex lies to the west of Port Antonio, just outside of the entrance to the town. It is a popular spot among Port Antonio residents, and is sometimes used for local concerts and other events. The beach rests a few feet below the main road, but is hardly visible from above. Colourful concrete buildings line the back of the beach, including a bar, restaurant, changing area and bathrooms. Outside of the buildings, overgrown train tracks run through a grassy patch
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bordering the sand. Beyond the old tracks, a few almond trees watch the white sand wrap around the cove. A fence divides the beach into two areas. The small patch to the west of the fence belongs to fishermen, whose little huts rest on the land while their brightly painted ca-
noes float in the water. On the other side, clean white sand extends toward Port Antonio. The water off the beach is excellent for swimming, with a shallow and clear area that leads to a deep, dark blue bay. Ras Johnson’s Ranch is
located in-between Long Bay and Manchioneal. The short driveway reveals a grassy area and two round wooden shacks. One is a bar and restaurant, which serves I-tal and vegetarian food. The other thatchedroof building is a one-bedroom guesthouse, for more rugged travellers. A shallow stream, called the Christmas River, runs behind the huts, bordered by a steep hillside that is overrun with lush tropical vines. There’s a small, but wide coarse sand beach that looks out across the coast. To one side, the town of Manchioneal scrambles along the shore. Dark waves roll with their short white heads onto the sand. On busy days, both beaches are great places to hang out with a few Port Antonio locals and take in a bit of Jamaican culture. During the quiet times, they are scenic breaks from the traditional spots.
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Glamour Transport and Tours Montego Bay (876) 953-3810, 953-0762 www.glamourdmc.com Great Vacations (CA) Limited Kingston (876) 383-8730 www.greatvac.com Holiday Services Ltd. Ocho Rios (876) 953-2638 www.holiday-services.com
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Jam Venture Ltd Kingston (876) 927-4736 www.jamventuretours.com
The Legends Resort Private Beach Vacation Escape from crowded cruise ship and tourist areas and experience Jamaica from your own private beach. Meet your captain at the shoreline and go for a 20 minute boat ride of the coast of Negril. When you arrive you can pick one of three locations on the small secluded island to relax your cares away. Prices start at $15/hr
www.legendsislandgetaway.com
864-981-2355
Jamaica Tours Limited Montego Bay (876) 953-3700 Ext 252 www.jamaicatoursltd.com
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