The History of the Pearl before 1916

Pearls are intimately linked to human history. With a history of many pearling centers flourishing, followed by over fishing, the industry history is filled with ebbs and tides.

As a long symbol of power and purity, many royals adorned themselves with pearl jewels. The “Great Age of Pearls” as described by jewelery historians came after after 1500, when great quantities of pearls made their way to Europe after pearl beds were found in Panama, Pacific, Caribbean and India.

This history of pearling, the plight of pearl divers and the quest for pearls and their value are described well in such books as these. Too, John Steinbeck’s short book The Pearl tells a saga of one pearl.

Tears of the Moon

Ancient Japanese legends told stories of mermaids and nymphs crying tears of pearls. When the gods wept, they shed pearls. Even the moon allegedly shed those tears.

This book by Di Morrissey is set in Broome, Australia, 1893, in the wild and passionate heyday of the pearling industry and the struggles of pearl divers. By 1910, Broome had become one of the most important pearling centers in the world, with nearly 400 luggers and over 3500 people employed in the industry

In the USA, Pearl Harbor was originally named by the native Hawaiians, who called it “Wai Momi” (pearl waters). The harbor was once full of pearl-producing oysters, although Hawaiians likely valued them more for their shells and meat than for the shiny nuggets prized by westerners.

The town of Muscatine, Iowa

For decades, this Mississippi River town was the pearl-button capital of the world. Clusters of clam and mussel shells lie on the banks of the Mississippi River in Muscatine. Many decades ago these shells were plucked from the bottom of the river by the ton. Circular saws cut multiple discs out of each shell, each sanded to a perfect pearl button. It was thanks to a german button artisan John F. Boepple who came to USA in 1890 to use the high quality mother-of pearl for buttons.

Recently, in an old warehouse as part of that button factory dating back to 1886, was found millions of buttons. Yes, many of those buttons found were plastic but a great many are pearl buttons. You see this Pearl City (Muscatine) had became the largest manufacturer of fresh-water pearl buttons in the world, and by 1905 was producing 37% of the world’s pearl buttons.

The warehouse is located at 1009 E 6th St. in Muscatine, Iowa. Seantelle Smith (project coordinator sorting the buttons), can be reached for sales at her Etsy shop. Further, you can visit the National Pearl Button Museum in Muscatine.

As plastics began to replace pearl buttons and washing powders damaged the pearl buttons, the industry ceased, so that by the 1950’s you could not sell a pearl button.

If you want pearl buttons to-day you can go to the ETSY store mentioned above and such items as pictured to the right are available (not any more for 15c but still a low cost.)

After 1916

Affordability of cultured pearls led to their popularity, and with it, the demise of the natural pearl trade. Although a vibrant natural pearl trade still exists today, it is small.

The emergence of the cultured pearl trade took some decades though. In Broome, in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, Nick Paspaley at age 19 bought his first pearling lugger in the 1930’s. His father Nicholas Paspaley had fled the Greek island of Kastellorizo at the start of WW1. The overfishing and invention of the plastic button, by the 1950’s pushed the world's natural pearl beds to virtual extinction. Partnering with Japanese experts in Japan, after Mikimoto’s patent for producing cultured pearls, Paspaley cultivated pearls became the primary focus of a new pearling industry.

South Sea Pearls are wonderful gems, but Australian South Sea Pearls and especially Paspaley Pearls are superior and with widely recognized quality, as a most important producer of cultured pearls. The intricacies of the solitary Pinctada maxima pearl oyster, found only in the Kimberley demanded years of research and patience. Australian South Sea Pearls are now cultured using a process that mimics the natural cycle as closely as possible. Natural pearls are still occasionally discovered and due to their rarity they can command extraordinary prices.

Freshwater pearls are the most commonly produced pearls with China being the leading source. Although the original BIWA freshwater pearl in Japan is a natural pearl, from Lake Biwa, it was the first to be cultured, but often produced long and sticklike shapes, and are sought after by collectors. Today the name Biwa has come to be a generic term for the sticklike freshwater pearls from China.

Tahitian Pearls, those exotic black pearls are from the Pinctada margaritifera or Black-lip pearl oyster. We say black, but the color range covers the spectrum from light creamy to greens, iridescent peacock and deep black.

Akoya Pearls are predominantly farmed in the cooler waters of Japan, with the Pinctada fucata martensii oyster, producing perfectly round pearls, but as the oyster itself is small, the size is rarely as big as 10 mm. Usually in sharp metallic luster of silver to white color, they are considered classic pearls.

Aspects Of Pearls

luster, complexion, shape, color, size

Luster That behavior of light interacting with layers of nacre giving an appearance of soft iridescent glow.

Complexion The surface of the pearl is influenced by the number and size of imperfections.

Shape can range from tear drop, oval, perfectly round to button and baroque, including those very blistered pearls.

Color - color of pearls can range from golden through champagne, cream, white to silvery, a silvery pink to deep black, iridescent green and peacock.

Size

Although occasionally one might hear of measuring pearls by weight using the term momme (the japanese unit of weight being 3.75 grams), pearls are most usually measured by diameter in millimeters. If a shape other than round ,you will see the 2 measurements. Pearls range in size from seed pearls at approximately 2mm to as much as 20 mm.

Pearl necklace lengths

Different pearl necklace lengths have often been ascribed to particular age groups but when today’s fashion can include all manner of rule discarding, one simply chooses one’s own style. A unique vocabulary has emerged for the length of pearl necklaces.

Chokers are 14”-16’, Princess 17”-19”, Matinee 20”-24”, Opera 26”-35” and Opera Rope 36” or longer

Graduated and Uniform Size Pearl Strands

In order to obtain a necklace of some 50 pearls of uniform size for a single strand, it takes some 10,000 pearls to select from. So in the days before availability of cultured pearls, the graduated necklace was not only the fashion but was popular. Graduated necklaces are not as sought after to-day, but whether cultured or natural, one can see why a strand of uniform size pearls is not easy to produce.

What are Mabe Pearls?

These blister pearls are half pearls cultivated against the inside of the shell. Producing a dome shape with a flat back is very suited for earrings and clasps, rings and pendants.

Some British Royal Pearl Jewelery

“The Pearl is the Queen of Gems and the Gem of Queens” Grace Kelly

The British Royal family owns some marvelous pearl jewelery and now we are seeing the current royal family wearing the jewels.

Tiara

During the 16th and 17th centuries, large quantities of baroque pearls were accumulated by pearl dealers and together with other gemstones, “sculptural pendants” were produced in various fancied shapes. The Treasury Gallery created in the time of Catherine the Great in the 18th century, contains these 5 breathtaking pendants.