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Contents 7. Letter From the Editor
10. Lan Yu Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
18. Shiatzy Chen 2017 Fall/Winter Ready-to-Wear 28. Tokyo 2017 Spring/ Summer Fashion Week 36. Yohanix 2017 Spring/ Summer Ready-to-Wear 40. Crouching Tiger; Hidden Dragon 50. Wei Hsu 56. Qingyin Wang 72. Sujie Zha 82. East Meets West 92. Sober 104. June 118. Common 126. Moodboard in Clothing
134. Why Does the Fashion Industry like “Ugly” Asian Models? 140. Limil 2017 Campaign
Contents
Editor in Chief Quina Jin Contributors Wei Hsu Qingyin Wang Sujie Zha Xu Lin Meijun Lu Special Thanks Stephan Rabimov Limil
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Letter From the Editor Life in Shanghai is much different from living in San Francisco, but I found there are some thing in common that are interesting between the two international cities: modern yet vintage, grim and passion. Shang Francisco magazine is the unique bridge that based on the two international cities, creating an opportunity for the Eastern and the Western cultures to interact. Artists and designers will be able to communicate with each other, learn and share resources, and their portfolios. Fashion keeps infusing new blood for the two cities, which makes the two historical cities continuous reproduction breed in an endless succession. Also, fashion is the link that ties the two cities tightly. Art is what subsided from the two cities old stories, then extracted by artists to give new life and soul. , With strong local customs and practices and long historical and cultural, the two beautiful cities are brilliant bases that breed gorgeous artistic atmosphere. Film records every step and emotions and memories of the two cities. It is like a contemplator that has been standing by Shanghai and San Francisco, watching, thinking and feeling everything. Arts are interlinked, and no matter how many kinds of art exist or how many changes they have, the principle stays the same. Fast lifestyle makes people desire slower sentiment; every issue of Shang Francisco will have wonderful information and shared stories from students and professors. Enjoy the unique reading experience from Shang Francisco.
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2017 Fall Ready-to-Wear
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The Unexpected “Made in China” Text by Quina Jin
In Lan Yu’s Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, there is no Dragons, lions, phoenixes, no signature Chinese red and gold colors, but just a calm tone collection with pale shades and basic silhouettes. It is a high-end collection by a Chinese designer indeed. On February 10, 2017, the young designer, Lan Yu, presented her Fall Readyto-Wear collection at the New York Fashion week. As always, she has fused Western and Chinese fashion elements together tactfully without using any exaggerative Chinese themes to indicate her identity. She shows the world that minimalist is also one of the main traditional Chinese styles and all the details reveal Yu’s design spirit.
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Images source: The Impression.com
Yu shows in her collection soft colors of pink, blue, jade, and nude to the dark pallet of blackish green and black. All the garments are in simple silhouettes but have a little trick of design in the detail to brighten up the look. There are several outwears paired with exquisite lingerie throughout the collection, which can be worn during the daytime and nighttime, any place the women want. The show opened up with a sexy and casual, cream, delicate knitted lingerie and a sheeny pale jade silk long gown. It seems that Yu wanted to announce her show’s statement that beautiful women are always self-confident and leisurely.
Yu is skilled in using Chinese fashion technique and merging it with Western fashion together. The head-totone white outfit is drawn by clean geometrical lines, and vivid laces on each side of the sleeve break its rigid figure. Also, the stringy selvege on the trousers is ladylike. A signature collar of the Han dynasty decorated the A-line grayish blue and pink coat, classical and contemporary. As the successor of the Su embroidery technique, which is one of the oldest clothing techniques in China, Yu has never forgotten her design spirit. She has said to NBC News that she wants the world to see the combination of Western fashion with Chinese culture. Also, her
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deep respect for craftsmanship changes Western people’s viewpoint of “Made in China”. These ideas can be seen by her collection’s detail: Su embroidery technique features in the garments and the contrast of the fabrics. Also, there is an important detail — the amplifying sewing needles decorate some garments as the brooches, which has indicated her respect of traditional Chinese handicraft art and the essence of making clothes.
Yu will become the national designer who can disseminate Chinese culture in her works, and be the bridge in the fashion industry between China and the West.
A journey of a thousand miles begins with one step. An expert designer should be responsible and respect every single needle or piece of thread. There is no doubt that
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2017 F/W READY-TO-WEAR
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Intertwined Aesthetics of the West and the East Text by Quina Jin
Images source: The Impression.com
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Chen Tsai-Hsai Wang released her Shiatzy Chen’s new collection on March 7th at the Grand Palais, and it is the ninth time Shiatzy Chen showed in Paris. In the East, the number nine means harvest and celebration. With patterns of auspicious clouds, dragons, phoenixs and Chinese lions, Shiatzy Chen eulogized neo-classicism and romanticism with its own Contemporary Aesthetics. Shiatzy Chen mingled the East and the West with delicate artistic methods with injected its new fabrics and contemporary silhouettes with classical quintessence. Rococo’s magnificent style and rich Chinese embroideries were interweaved together perfectly and naturally. One great example is a creamy white silk gown decorated with exquisite baby pink and blue embroideries, with a concolorous paillette baseball jacket. Another is a Chinese red leather suit with a short jacket and a d skirt adorned with ruffles, that is paired with a elaborate over-the-knee embroidered boots. Both of the looks brightened up the show’s theme. Dragons and traditional Chinese motifs were almost in every garments and were matched with Rococo roses, laces and macrame. The architectural style handbags were another bright spot in the show and also had rich Chinese and Rococo style flowers and plants dancing with dragon, auspicious clouds and lions. The bags are made of high quality leather and jade, which looks fabulous and also reflects traditional Chinese culture. Wang Chen Tsai-Hsai has said that China’s five thousand years history provides her with endless inspirations. She redefines Chinese fashion by combining traditional Chinese culture and contemporary Western elements, which has built up a bridge between the Western and the Eastern fashion world, and has shortened the two distant worlds.
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Text by Quina Jin
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Tokyo fashion style is distinctive all the time. With the combination of multiple cultures---street culture, architecture and sculpture style, and the “warm-blooded� culture, it not only has settled a position firmly in the global fashion industry but also showed up its iconic Japanese style--classic and contemporary, uncanny and cute. ACUOD by CHANU, Johan Ku Gold Label, and KIDILL are the three representative brands in the 2017 Spring/Summer Tokyo Fashion Week.
Johan Ku S/S 2017 Ready-to-Wear Images source: The Impression.com
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Johan Ku S/S 2017 Ready-to-Wear
KIDILL S/S 2017 Ready-to-Wear
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Johan Ku presented his collection Johan Ku Gold Label 2017 S/S in Tokyo Fashion Week with his best known sculpture-liked silhouette and knitted fabric. Based on his design background as a graphic designer and a fashion designer in Central Saint Martins, the collections was filled up by British style and Japanese street culture of the classic red and black gingham fabric, the gothic patterns, the punk accessories and the small metallic studs. Simple and solid silhouette with exaggerated patterns and decorations garments were perfect for daily wear in Japan for youth. Nowadays, some Japanese young people focus too much on mega-brands instead of their native fashion, but Johan Ku reminded them to pay attention to Japanese unique fashion by his blended culture designs.
This season’s collection of KIDILL’s was just ready for a “street battle” in Tokyo. The models were like the characters of the movie Crows Zero that wore iconic street fashion clothing and gathered together at backstreet. The designer Hiroaki Sueyasu got his inspiration from everywhere in Tokyo and assembled them into one collection for his “mafia group”: first thing for the fight---win the momentum! Male kimono silhouettes, oversized jackets, dobok-liked suits, loose pants, skateboarding, punk and graffiti elements, iconic mafia tattoos, also, the most important thing---kawaii patterns because they can’t go anywhere without comic books! Sueyasu expressed Tokyo street style thoroughly in every detail with high-quality materials of the collection that pretty much has explained what does Japanese young people are looking for in fashion, and what is the real fashion taste in Tokyo.
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KIDILL S/S 2017 Ready-to-Wear
If Sueyasu’s group was from Crows Zero, then Chanwoo Lee’s collection ACUOD by CHANU 2017 S/S was from the animation Tokyo Ghoul, which has strict management and hierarchy, and their unique mysterious masks. Lee presented his show by three parts that a street dance performance opened up the show, then followed by models walking for the main part, after that, a female model walked out the third part of the static display part at the end of the show.
ACUOD S/S 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The collection explained Tokyo fashion by the way of deconstructivism and pioneer trend. With the monochromatic black and white looks, the main fabric and decorations of the collection were shirting, zippers, and chains, and the contrast of soft and hard texture of fabrics has made a strong visual impact, which has lead off the distinctive thoughts and lifestyles of Tokyo youth.
ACUOD S/S 2017 Ready-to-Wear
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ACUOD S/S 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Text by Quina Jin
Images source The Impression.com
In the competitive fashion industry, finding the right position while simultaneously defining an appropriate style or a fashion taste are crucial for a fashion insider, especially for young fashion designers in fashion developing countries. Yohan Kim can be considered as an outstanding young fashion designer in South Korea who draws youth-culture-imbued aesthetic with international fashion taste together. Kim presented his Spring/ Summer 2017 collection for Concept Korean in both New York Fashion Week and Seoul Fashion Week respectively in September and
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October with different models but the same collection. The collection was named “Only God Can Judge Me” is about “Defining One’s True Self ”, which expressed Kim’s dissatisfaction of people who want to be accepted unconditionally from people while not doing the same virtue to others. Kim mixed luxurious fabrics with street styles clothing, such as elegant laces, exquisite beading and embroidery, wool and textured leather with dirty shirts that painted of graffiti and odd printings, or matched
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with ragged jackets and irregular-cut garments. Perhaps this is a great example of the K-fashion aesthetic that has grown up quickly and taken a place on the international fashion map. However, what is K-fashion? The inspirations of the collection were all over the world---there is Harley Quinn and Joker from the movie Suicide Squad, Vetement’s signature long sleeves, Japanese street style and Supreme’s grunge aesthetic printings, but there was nothing from Korea. Unlike Japanese fashion aesthetic, the style is obvious and recognizable---minimalism with architecture, sculpture and Buddhist, or extremely cute, headstrong youth and street style, which has characterized Japanese traditional culture--- The Chrysanthemum and the Sword; or, like Chinese fashion, whose style is unstable and still have hard time finding its own style and position that either too much traditional elements that hard to match with contemporary silhouette, or is anxious to be accepted by the international fashion audience but lost its own characteristic. Comparing with other two countries whose styles are niche, Korea fashion aesthetic could be accepted by the global fashion industry more, and has more primary audience. They know how to absorb from other elements and transform them into their style which conforms to the public aesthetic. Also, Korea fashion’s business structure is a key point, which is similar to its K-pop
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business model that every star must sign up a contract with an agency. Under the promotion of the agencies and the Korea government, stars and designers could have better opportunities and spaces for developing. So far in Korea, the most popular aesthetic is youth-driven culture, no matter in K-pop, K-beauty or K-fashion, and it is also one of the most welcomed aesthetic in the global fashion industry. Yohan Kim is definitely a talent young fashion designer. His design style has impacted by London’s fashion taste because he was graduated from London University of Fashion in 2007. Besides fancy elements and youth culture, maybe we can expect more from Kim and other Korean fashion designers for more elements of Korean culture.
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Far east pastoral and classic chinoiserie prints create stunning allover repeats and provide a nod to the recent wave of oriental-inspired designs---A new and complex silhouette are simple with graceful long layouts.
“Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon� Producer & Stylist: Wei Hsu Photographer: Jayce Park Model: Brian Palaciio Assitant: Janet Liu 40
Shirt: CAP Knit Top: Forever 21 Woven Pants: Forever 21 Bracelets: H&M Sandals: Aldo
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Shirt: CtAP Printed Pants: GAP Dyed Cardigan: Anthropologie Necklace: H&M Shoes: H&M
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Chiffon Long Dress: H&M Stripped Pants: Forever 21 Linen Jacket: ZARA Sash: ACT Costume Rental Store Necklace: H&M Sandals: Aldo
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Linen top: Urban Outfitters Knee-length Pants: H&M Stripped Skirt: Forever 21 Linen Cape: Urban Outfitters Sash: ACT Consume Rental Store Bracelet: H&M Shoes: Crevo
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Dress Shirt: Forever 21 Trousers: J Crew Sleeveless Jacket: Anthropologie Shoes: H&M
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WEI HSU Text by Quina Jin
The first time I heard about Wei Hsu was because of an editorial shoot for my magazine Shang Francisco. She is from Taipei, and she is an undergraduate student at Academy of Art University. Her instructor recommended her to me to collaborate on the shoot because our projects’ themes are alike. She was preparing for a shoot called “East Meets West”, combining Asian and Western culture. I looked up her website portfolio and went through her previous works---a feeling in peace and quiet are pervasive all the images. Even though
she has multiple editorial styles, the aura you feel is subtle power. I was thinking what kind of girl can make these stunning shots? On the following days ,before I met her, I got to know her by many little things, such as her serious attitude towards working. No matter how late she finishes, she always replies to my email and discusses collaboration. But we couldn’t shoot my editorial at the end due to the limited time and full schedule of photographers, which is so unfortunate. 50
top & bottom: Urban Outfiters, shoes: Nike
Wei Hsu’s daily outfit-all black. top: ZARA pantskirt: Moma, sunglasses: Warby Parker
Our interview was on the 5th floor of 180 building. She is a petite girl who wore casual sportswear with a laptop in her hand, and checked her assignments. She gave me a great first impression---bright and cheerful and always smiling. When talking about this editorial’s concept, she said she got inspiration from the history of Chinese immigration in San Francisco. Looking back at the history on the 1849 period what impressed her most was the gender inequality. Generally, Chinese girls were treated more unfairly than boys because of old-fashioned ideas, people once preferred boys to girls. After some Chinese emigrated from China to San Francisco, they faced racism, and they couldn’t get equitable treatment, let alone for the Chinese girls. Life was so tough for them, but they were strong and brave to face life. Hsu wants to convey the concept that girls are
strong to do anything that boys can do, and they should be treated seriously. “No matter in what time and which places, everybody is equal,” she said. So to illustrate her feeling about gender equal, she combined male and female clothes in an androgynous style. She wants the girl in her editorial story to pretend she lives in 1849, but she can do anything she likes without restriction and gender discrimination. Hsu chose shooting locations where one can reflect on those days when Chinese emigration was working for a living, in laundry stores and markets. “Those locations are great elements for representing east and also can reflect the history of Chinese emigration, ” she said.
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Wei Hsu on her way to school and checking emails. top: Madewell, trousers: Moma, shoes: Nike, bag: zara
The first time she came to the Academy of Art major to styling. It might be challenging for her University, she was confused about choosing to be a fashion designer because she is lacking majors. She loves art and design skills, but her feeling and sense of fashion is sharp. design, but she didn’t know much about fashion. “I was “I might not be fashionable, but I Comparing fashion design been laughed by my dressing to styling, she believes a know fashion.” stylist needs to know more on the orientation day,” she than a designer. Besides unsaid. She went to the fashion design department orientation, “I don’t even derstanding clothes design, it is crucial to know get one class. That was a beating.” Fashion is a photography, makeup, hairstyles and how to competitive territory which has fast pace and all combine different garments in the right approkinds of people. Almost everyone wants to do priate style. Also, the most important thing is to something unconventional to get attention. But connect people in different departments, coordiHsu never worries about whether she is attractive nate and communicate well with each one. This enough; she just wants to create valuable works requires good sociability and well social relations. As a student, Hsu cannot afford an expensive fee and uses her achievements to express herself. to hire a photographer, model and buy designer After a year, she found that fashion styling is garments. No matter how great the editorial conmore suitable for her, so she transformed her cept is, it is useless, if it cannot result from im53
top & bottom: Urban Outfiters, shoes: Nike
ages. “No one will help you if you don’t know how to treat them well and deal with issues,” she said. Hsu is modest and polite, and she can handle sudden issues gracefully, also, she pursues designers of clothes for her shooting. The petite girl seems to always have endless power and positive energy to infect people nearby.
Hsu is working on an editorial moodboard. top: Madewell 54
“I like to come up with a story first, then searching for shooting concept.”
As many stylists say, Hsu’s inspiration comes from everywhere in her daily life. She takes pictures of whatever can inspire her, and then these fragmented pieces start to constitute a story. Or, sometimes she gets inspiration from one piece, and pursues the piece to make up a story. Multilayered clothes are her favorite way of styling; she thinks it is more interesting than a simple garment, which is like her editorial stories.
“Home town is the source where I get inspiration and sympathy.”
Hsu wants something different from everyone’s works that related to the west. So she seeks elements from her hometown in the east. Getting inspiration from her hometown makes her feels of content and peaceful, and also reminds her of home. Hsu got her inspiration and elements mainly from the movie, Crouching Tiger; Hidden Dragon, and then made an editorial with the same name. In ancient times of China, some male and female clothes have similar silhouettes and in order to express the demure beauty of women, Hsu used many female clothes on a male model to show the hardness and softness. She decided to use colorful clothes, but after shooting she found black and white images are more suitable for her concept and have the feeling of ink painting and lingering sense of aroma. This editorial has polarized comments when doing a critique in her class. Most American students cannot get any eastern elements from the images, but for all the Asian students, it is obvious eastern style no need to explain. Most of the time, it is hard to give a right standard for art because everyone has different cultural backgrounds, life experiences, fields of visions and thoughts. People get to resonate with things they find familiar. Subconsciously, the culture in everyone’s blood will be his or her judgment standard. “Actually, I have multiple styles for my works, but I always want to focus more on the east,” Hsu said. I really hope I can collaborate an editorial on my mood board with Hsu in the future. 55
Qingyin Wang Text by Quina Jin
Looking at Qingyin Wang’s paintings and listening to her stories, makes me feel like bright sparkles burst out under a dark background---radiate from a corner, then scatter slowly in the air, spinning, shining and dazzling, then fall down slightly. It also makes me feel like looking up at the stars in the universe---relaxed and happy, open and clear, silent but shocked. Savoring her paintings and stories seems like I am listening to Buddhists chanting in deep voice and the Guqin’s sounds, near or far. Profound and familiar words jump from her voices and resonate me, which feels like ringing an old bell from an ancient temple. The sound hits my heart over and over again.
My mind is taken far away by the bell sound to my hometown. After She graduated from the East China Normal University, Department of Chemistry, Wang has been working on graphic and visual design for six years. This Shanghai woman has a simple and quiet life. She spends most of her daytime walking, reading and sleeping, but creating at night. Her all-embracing works are splendid, which express culture, reflect nature, explore religion and philosophy, and interact with life and the universe. 56
Qingyin Wang
SF: What is the main form of your works? QW: As an art creator, the division of industrial background shouldn’t restrict me. I usually introduce myself as a “free creator” because it is a little bit hard to define my current work. My art involves Illustration, picture books, design and fine art, which sum up to a job of making beautiful works.
Where do you get inspiration? I have been noticing something particular that relates to my background, such as the universe, nature, science, Taoism, Buddhism and poetry.
Lots of Chinese elements can be seen in your works, do you like to mix different cultures together?
I like to use Chinese elements to narrate, instead of saying I choose to use Chinese elements. What I am using now are not contemporary Chinese elements---red, gold shining things, skyscraper or The smooth and elegant linellae from Chinese dump track, but are the stories and histories that classical painting, and the color blending idea of almost are forgotten. I want to tell those stories, “Songhua with Peach”(taken from the Dream of which are soft, exquisite and dreamlike. I will use the Red Chamber) with Ukiyoe, and the bright relevant elements, when I want to mention them. decoration from the French illustrator George Maybe someday Chinese elements will disappear Barbier in the 1930s all influence me a lot. But I from my works, if I want to tell another story. am still who I am, and never imitate others. Nowadays, Eastern and Western cultures permeate each other deeply; Chinese ideology has been
How do you define your works’ style?
able. I think the most important thing for China is the time dimension. China has had dramatic changes during the 20th century. It is the era of civilian and consumption. America’s powerful culture attracts money undoubtedly. Comparing present China and America, I think American is mature and diversified. The Chinese original aesthetic and even all the culture has been subverted and destroyed totally by historical reasons. Now, Chinese people are recovering and groping for what is real China gradually. It is hard to tell whether China has a certain aesthetic or not. The main trend is learning from America and Japan. When talking about American art and culture, Just like what I mentioned before, using Chinese what is the first thing you think of? elements doesn’t represent China. The forming Chinese aesthetic still needs several generations’ effort and time. This is just like having vast treaConsumption, Pop Art and Hollywood. sure in our yard, should we dig them out and how should we use them? Should we treat them What is most different between China and Amer- like memories that display and cherish them, or ica’s aesthetics? renew and trim them? How to combine things in the past with temporary context well? I think these issues are the what Chinese aesthetic needs It’s hard to answer this question because it is vari- to face. westernized totally. The two cultures are not opposite anymore, but are blending and learning from each other. The elements that I use are like decorations on a cake. I have freedom to choose chocolate, cream or jam. Ang Lee had directed Jane Austen’s masterwork Sense and Sensibility, and Dreamworks has made the Kung Fu Panda which is full of Chinese elements. It is impressive how they referenced the leather-silhouette show. Symbols are representational and international so the whole world can understand them.
What do you think of art works that combine Asian and Western culture? The contemporary art works that are created are hard to be defined as Asian or Western. People are living in a global environment. Maybe all of the Asian arts are influenced by Western cultures because our education system and lifestyle are totally Westernization. Also, Asian arts have been integrating in to Western arts since the impressionism period. The world cannot be separated because of the network. It is better to say that the combination of Asian art and Western art are formed naturally, not subjectively.
If you are going to create an art collection that relates to Shanghai and San Francisco, what key works will you use? It is a very broad topic about two places. In general, people are the most vital elements to a city. There are many angles to observe people, such as family, lifestyle, work, sexual orientation, long-distance relationship, American and non-American. I think I will find more if go deeper. Another point of thought, from the biological perspective, It is also interesting to observe the plants, insects and animals in Shanghai and San Francisco.
“self-portrait” of Qingyin Wang
“Deer, Monkey and Crane”
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Qingyin Wang’s animation design “Miss A & Miss D” series for Cosmopolitan magazine
The animation “Mooncake” Episode of “Miss A & Miss D” for Cosmopolitan Magazine
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Please talk about the animation series for the Cosmopolitan magazine I have been collaborating with Cosmopolitan for several years. In June of last year, the editor told me to create a series of cartoons for the publishing magazine and a 2 minutes video of the cartoon’s creating process. Due to my working experience at an advertising company before, I know that kind of video cannot provide much information. So I tried to present the cartoon in the form of animation, and I also have added some humorous elements and dubbed the characters, which surprised the editor. So, this is how we started this column, and we already have 12 episodes so far. It took us a long process of running-in and twice revision, and now, the animation’s style and content are mature. It focuses on giving useful fashion tips, which could allow the Chinese to audience acquire a lot of fashion knowledge in a very short time.
Japan has the Harajuku fashion style, and Korea has K-pop, what do you think is the main fashion style in China?
Building up the superstructure of skyscrapers a country needs a strong economic base. China’s economic development just started in the last ten years, and its culture development is still on the primary stage. Japan and Korea were two of the Four Asian Tigers in the early 70s, but China sill hasn’t gotten rid of the shadow of the Cultural Revolution yet. Also, talking about fashion in China was still a rare thing before 30 years ago. Nowadays, more and more Chinese go abroad to extend their field of vision and learn new things. They use their outside perspective of the world to see China, and notice that the identity issue is becoming more and more intractable. People start to think about what is the real China, and how can we rebuild our traditional culture. Fashion trends follow the process top to the bottom. Now, China has many excellent fashion designers, such as Ma Ke who designs high-end clothes for Peng liyuan, and Guo Pei who made Rihanna’s Met Gala clothe. It is observed that everyone is trying to analyze and excavate Chinese fashion philosophy and Chinese traditional handicraft, and how to stand on the world’s stage as an expert fashion designer. Chinese fashion style should not only just about the traditional embroidery of dragons, flours, or birds, but also about the most important part— using China’s way for thinking. Therefore, in my opinion, to form some kind of signature Chinese fashion style China still needs time, but it can be expected soon.
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“Silk”
Is your work relevant to your life, experience and background? My undergraduate major was chemistry, which motivates my interest of nature. Although I didn’t continue studying science, I still read lots of books and magazines about discovering nature, the universe and science. Also, Buddhism and Taoism provide a very high thought for learning the universe. They cannot compare with science and also there is right or wrong between them. They are like two ways to look at the world that can give a wider view. Therefore, I use many symbols and symbolism in my personal illustration creation to express my perception and feeling to the world. That is why I’m turning my works to fine art recently. Expression cannot satisfy me, and I want to do more presentation about the world. On the other hand, I strongly feel that since I left China, I became more “China” and more representative. I had read many traditional classical books, such as Shi Ji and Zhuang Zi. They made me feel more attached to my homeland. I have talked about this to some of my overseas friends, and they acknowledged it. Ailin Zhang had mentioned an English old lady in her novel, who was even more “English” than she was in England. I think it might be because we want to find the right position for ourselves in unbalanced spaces and cultural differences in our unconscious minds.
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“Chinese Dessert-1”
“Chinese Dessert-2”
“Chinese Dessert-3”
SUJIE ZHA Text by Quina Jin
Sujie Zha is a senior student that majoring in Illustration graduate degree at AAU “Beauty is evanescence; beauty is eternity; every shinny twinkling moment lightens inspiration up and engraves in memory.”
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EVANES SF: How do you define your painting style?
Will the relevant show up in your paintings?
SZ: I’m faithful to what I see by myself, which means I like things in their original looks. No matter for scenery or portrait, my painting tends to be realistically.
In this collection, I want to focus on portrait to attempt the combination of fashion and illustration. Using different materials in painting is a new experience for me at the same time.
What do you think is the relevant that between fashion and illustration?
How did you come up with this collection?
They both can be creative. Fashion designers show their understand of fashion and feelings through garments; illustrator express their emotions and pursuit of beautiful by painting.
My inspiration is from the deeper understanding of realistic painting. I want to use portrait, clothing and mixed materials to create dramatic works, and I want to convey my new understanding of painting.
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SCENCE How do you think of Shanghai and San Francisco?
How did you combine the two cultures into your works?
Shanghai is very busy, sometimes very crowded. I used different portraits as reference to create San Francisco has profound cultural background, Asian and Western faces, also, I considered garno matter the towering marble Architectures or ments matches, which can make comparison. the historic cable car make me think of Shanghai in the last century.
Will you add your own experiences, background and emotion into your creation?
Have you met any challenges in this collection?
Because of the new way of painting, it is easy to Obviously, I hope my audience can get someover do it, or not enough. thing from my paintings, maybe I didn’t mean to convey my feelings during processing, but you might be able to get the information.
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“I love illustration because of its multiformity.�
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As Asian workers continue to grow more powerful and influential, fascination with this region and its rich sartorial traditions continues to inspire and find fresh expression.
“East Meets West” Produce & Styling:WeiHsu Photograpy: JenMiyakoMcGowan Model: HannahTokuno Makeup: JayJow (CintaAveda) Hair:SeanKosugi Assistant: AmberLin/LolaChang 82
Jacket: Topshop Top: ZARA Pencil Skirt: Own by AAU Pleated Skirt: H&M Shoes: Own by stylist Purse: Own by stylist Earrings: Own by stylist Bracelet: Own by stylist
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Dyed Top: H&M Skirt: Own by AAU Pants: Own by AAU Shoes: Ivanka Trump Earrings: Own by stylist
Long-sleeve Shirt: Own by AAU Sleeveless shirt: Own by AAU Pants: Own by AAU Shoes: Own by stylist
Long Shirt: ZARA Bottom: Own by stylist Shoes: Own by stylist Bracelet: Own by stylist 88
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Top: H&M Bottom: Own by AAU Shoes: Own by stylist Bracelet: H&M
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Long Skirt: Own by AAU Pants: Own by stylist Sandals: Eileen Fisher Earrings: Own by stylist Bracelet: H&M
“Sober” Styling: Mengmeng Zhao, Cherry Yuan Photographer: Xu Lin Makeup: Kristina Curtis, Safira McGrew Model Savannah Aubinoe, Constanza Rehren, Cristina Golubovih 92
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Top: Frame Dress: Frankie Boots: ZARA
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Blouse: H&M Trench Coat: ASOS
Hat: H&M Coat: Milly Pants: Forever 21 Bag: Troubadour Tie: ZARA
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Blouse: Anthropology Suspender Trousers: Elizabeth and James Tie: H&M
Image by: Shero Peng
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Text by Quina Jin
Meijun Lu is a Chinese girl whose hometown is Yunnan where is a beautiful province that has historic and mystical culture in China. She made her nickname as June, which is her birthday month and the most fascinating month in Yunnan. June graduated from Shanghai Institute of Visual Art, Fudan University with Art design degree and is currently studying at the Academy of Art University Fashion Design graduate school. As a 24 years old fashion department student, she has already created 7 collections, and two of them has won high prizes. “Fashion” is the key word of June, she made her decision to be a fashion designer when she was a little kid and has never changed. However, she gave the answer of persisting her goal as “lazy”. “I’m too lazy to have other goals, and I’m stubborn, so I just keep doing it”
Image by: Shero Peng
Are you preparing any collection recently? was so impact by the beautiful views and the roWhat’s the inspiration? mantic love story in that movie, more important, it teaches women too be independent no matter I’m working on the second collection in this se- outside of our career, or inside of our thoughts mester, which is pretty free to do whatever we and hearts. Also, it shows many contrast, such like to. It is called “Birds and Freedom”. I real- as the personality difference between Mr Darcy ly like traveling, but I always feel that I have to and Elizabeth, and their own diversity of personspend a lot of time on school. I think many peo- ality between outside and inside. So, I thought of ple will agree that our life has been tied up most the contrast of hard and soft materials. I used 3D of the time, and we want to escape like a bird to technique to make the white hollow frames and go anywhere we want. So I took some elements soft voile fabric for the main part of dress, which from birds in to this collection. For example, dif- also made a strong visual impact and emphasized ferent shapes of bird wings and feature textures, the theme of the movie. I didn’t win the champialso, some beautiful colors of birds——red, or- on, but I owned the top 5 at the end which was beyond by expectation. I think I learned a lot in ange, white, green and brown. this competition, and the most important thing What is your favorite collection so far? is I gained acceptance by my design, and it encouraged me a lot. The one that I made on the competition Creative Sky in Beijing 2014. It was made by 3D printer. Your collection “YI” is also Actually, I didn’t want to go to the competition amazing, could you please talk about that? because it is a very high level competition, and one of the judges is the president of Parsons. The I came from Yunnan where is famous by its nawinner will be admitted to Parsons School of De- tional culture. You know, China has 56 nationalsign. I didn’t believe I could win a position in the ities, but Yunnan includes 26 minority nationalgame, but my instructor encouraged me a lot, so ities. Yi is one of my favorite nationality that has I joined. It was happened during the time I grad- beautiful clothing with beautiful colors. I really uated and prepared to go abroad. The collection want our nations’ culture to be internationalwas inspired by the movie Pride and Prejudice. I ly just like Bohemian. I took Yi’s signature ele-
The “Yi“ collection by June Photographer: Jeremy JI
The “Yi“ collection by June Photographer: Jeremy JI
ments——pleats and silver decoration combined with its famous black and red colors together. I was just thinking to finish the collection and graduate successfully, but once I threw myself into the work, I was so seriously about every step and detail. The final work was wonderful, and I won the second prize in our school which I didn’t expect. That was the first time I got encouragement.
ly girls with lots of kinds of clothing and gave them to my friends as gift. They love my works, which made me so happy, so I came out the idea fashion designer as my goal in the future. I’m so lazy to think of other majors, so I just keeping going and keeping love it. All the way from the beginning, I got lots of supports and encouragement, which I had never expected.
Any setback during the way?
After over one year study in the Academy of Art University, what difference you found between I was planning to go to Canada with my ex-boyShanghai and here? friend after graduated, and change my major to Business Administration because they don’t have A huge difference! Here, they have better pro- fashion major in where I want to go. However, gram and expert instructors. You learn every we broke up, which is great! I don't have to give thing as you are working on a real company. up my dream! The most important thing is, the instructors let you do anything you want, and they will help you. You know, it is the time for dreaming. You What animal you would be? dream, then you got the chance to succeed. You don’t, you got nothing. The instructors help your A bird! I’m dynamic and stubborn. If I want to go dreams come true! some where and do something, just go and do it, no one can stop me. When I want to take a nap, I Why did you choose fashion as your major? will stop. I think I have highly variable character, so that’s why you might find me dancing crazily Maybe I was influenced by my artistic family, and in a night club, then next second I pack my lugmy mother has always been support my dream. gages and fly to Tibet to enjoy the peace nature. When I was in kindergarten, I liked to draw love-
The Yi people is one of the 56 ethnic group in China. Under the combination of Yi’s traditional black and red colors and pop culture, metallic elements, a new and contemporay aesthetic has born.
Collection “YI” Photographer: Jeremy JI Collection Designer: June Design Advisor: Xijing Model: Sheila & Gaia Special Thanks: Edward & Oneboat R & Eleven
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XU LIN Text by Quina Jin
SF: Has your work ever been influenced by other How do you find your inspirations? photographer, and how did he or she affect your creation? Most of them are from the living environment, such as nature. For instance, the pure colors from XL: There is no specific photographer that has nature give me a comfortable sensation, or a surinfluenced me too much because every photog- prised feeling by a particular view. I always think rapher’s work inspires me more or less in his or about the relationship between these elements her works. I prefer expanding my creation and and humans, then I “draw” the main character thoughts in portrait works. In each portrait, the of my work to indicate the common of humans emotion from the character’s expression and the and nature. details of the environment are all the elements that need to be considered and understood Could you please talk about the collection titled during the creating process. After that step, I “Common”? will start to create pictures that the atmosphere brings out by the environment and the character. I want to express the common between nature and portraits, such as emotions feelings. At the 118
“Common” Photographer: Xu Lin Styling: Mengmeng Zhao, Caodi Linh Makeup: Xizhi Zhang Model: Jel Won, Shaylyn Riane
beginning of the creating process, I observed the colors and the lines of the nature with my eyes, and found the piece that impacted my mind from every single plant. During the process, I also found that our clothing has similar relationship with the nature, so I decided to combine portrait and fashion clothing with the natural elements together and create a collection. After I set up the main concept, I started to work on the emotion that I wanted to express and chose the model whose face has similar feelings. Then, I communicated with the makeup designer and stylist and prepared all the things I needed for the shooting.
My school life in San Francisco is actually when I started to understand what photography is. I didn’t have any photography before I came here, and I really appreciate that I started this career in San Francisco. It gives me a freedom, crazy and surprising life, and a cozy, chill and colorful experience. This city is free and open, its culture affects my photography not only limited in one area, but also opens my mind and imagination. I cannot ignore the importance of colors in my creations because of this city’s historical culture and California’s beautiful sunlight.
Does your living experience in San Francisco influence your work? 119
Top: Joseph Pants: H&M Coat: Paul Smith Necklace: Forever 21
Top: ZARA Tie: ZARA
Top: H&M
Moodboard in Chlothing Vanessa Hong Text by Quina Jin
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You will find her dressing code is pretty simple and clean by looking through her Instagram. Vanessa Hong, a famous fashion blogger known for her unique style comprised of simple colors, and her fashion blog The Haute Pursuit.
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Vanessa Hong at Harrod’s Destination Party
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Vanessa Hong’s Instagram
ong’s style is impossible to ignore because of her distinctive H aesthetic of fashion. Her clothes are mainly in black, white, grey and a little blue, and almost every garment’s silhouette is sharp and architectural. She rarely wares patterns, or bright, colorful color but solid color. Monochromatic outfit is her favorite, and she believes it is powerful to see someone head to toe in one color. Indeed, in the oversaturated fashion bloggers, she is stunning and impressive. Simple is powerful and less is more. Hong wants her Instagram like her mood board, and she likes 130
Vanessa Hong’s Instagram
to see common style in the mood board. For example, if she wants purple in the mood board, she will add purple items into it gradually make the mood board changes slowly.
rom her special looks, a aura of peace and inside power can F be seen clearly. She almost never smiles in photos and always with natural and calm poses, which conveys a cool atmosphere. Her style is opposite from many fashion icons’ style--active, colorful, cheerful and wild. Keeping low-key style is her way, but she is always unforgettable just by take a glance. 131
Purple Shadows
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H&M Studio SS’15
Over the Seine
? Text by Quina Jin
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Xiaowen Ju image by Blogspot.com
Lv Yan image by Elleiconlee.com
Liu Wen Derek Lam for Estée Lauder makeup collection
Don’t pretend you have never thought about this question. However, no matter you are an insider or outsider of fashion; these “ugly” models that have been chosen by fashion authority make you stop querying and begin to accept, then you will think they are beautiful. Due to the article “Why do models and even super models ugly?” from Wangyi website, and similar opinion from Styleite, it is obviously more people have noticed that many Asian model are “ugly”, or cannot be considered pretty. Why does fashion industry chooses these “ugly” models? Probably this question has been asked the most by Asian because the aesthetic is totally contrary in majority’s eyes. Lv Yan is the most controversial Chinese model that is ugly in China but famous in fashion industry. She has single-fold small eyes and big mouth that will never be considered has relevant with beautiful. Different culture background decides people’s vision. Asian people hold the view of beautiful women in the standard of gentle facial contour, slim figure and connotative character. Whereas, Western women already have clear facial contour than Asian women, 136
Kiko Mizuhara image by matome.naver.jp
let alone fashion standard. Western mainstream like women have obvious facial contour with stronger body. As we know, the fashion that we have been talking about was originated, developed and is prevailing in Western. Western mainly controls fashion industry so that these models are satisfactory. There are many kinds of models in fashion, but only certain types of them can be on the top line. Kiko Mizuhara is one of my favorite top models, but I will never consider she is suitable on runway show because she only can live in photos and movies. I have seen her in some runway shows that are for Japanese brands in cute styles, and I kept feeling that I couldn’t get any power from her, or any other models. They looked lovely and beautiful, and the clothes are cute, but they are far away from high fashion. If let Kiko wear a Chanel dress shows on a party, she is absolutely gorgeous, but if she walks on a Chanel show with other super models, she will be submerged by other models’ aura. Kiko’s face is close to fashion aesthetic than other Asian models, but still cannot win hearts and minds. What we need on high fashion 137
Ming Xi for Vogue China by Gilles Bensimon
is the faces, bodies and personalities that unique and impressive. Fashion is never a thing that only about beauty. It is about creativity that features peoples’ demand, vanity and finding out what’s really inside---power, beauty, unique and desire. It never stops changing in order to get a new higher or different level. Therefore, high fashion doesn’t need beautiful faces; it needs something particular and fresh, and strong enough to pay attention and be remembered. Only these “ugly” models can handle high fashion. They might not pretty, but they are shinny than any other beautiful faces. Lv Yan wouldn’t become a famous top mod138
el if she didn’t work in fashion; Liu Wen probably just is a normal tall girl in China, and Ju Xiaowen maybe is considered has a strange face. Fashion industry believes that these models have typical Asian beauty but also combine Western features, such as simple-fold eye, high cheek and sharp facial contour. Also, some of these Asian models are androgyny. These models are unique and have particular temperament that is not the same-beauty. They might not pretty, but they are forceful enough to shake high fashion, and we need them.
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PARIS
Limil 2017 Campaign Photographer: Xiao Long Producer/ Stylist: Silver Ho Stylist Assistant: Joe Yu Makeup & Hair: Alan Ren Model: Tan Qian 140
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shangfrancisco.weebly.com
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