How To Start & Operate a Locksmithing Business

Start & Operate Your Own Locksmith Business

By James A Hanna

Table of Contents Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Appendices

Introduction What is a Lock Business Plan Customer Service Bookkeeping So You Want to Be a Locksmith What Are You Worth Estimates Finding a Supplier & Stocking Up Advertising Rekeying Part 1: Identification & Removal Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys Rekeying Part 3: Pinning Impressioning Lock Bumping Access Control Systems Closed Circuit Television The History of Locksmithing a. b. c. d. e. f.

Door Handing Door Closer Operation Door Closer Selection Chart Lock Finishes Master Key Systems Chart Lock & Security Hardware Glossary

Introduction Anyone that decides to open a new business needs to know what to expect. On average, without the proper knowledge and guidance, most businesses fail within the first 2 years; some businesses last 5 years before failing. Start and Operate Your Own Locksmith Business will help you to understand what it takes to start and properly run your locksmithing business so that the time you spend working will only help your business to last beyond the averages.

As a Locksmith I learned through trial and error how to get my own business off the ground, working late nights with little sleep working both my business and my full time job. I started out with just an idea for a business and after 10 years it’s still going strong. I surpassed the 2 and 5 year average death date of most start-up businesses by continuing to educate myself on the industry & practicing techniques when I had extra time between service calls. Keeping up with the changing trends in the Locksmith and Security industry has helped me to offer my customers a wider range of products and services than I ever expected when I started. I trained myself how to accomplish the tasks put in front of me by my customers. A fellow locksmith once told me never to tell a customer that I couldn’t do a job they asked of me; always tell them ‘Yes I can!’ even when I knew I’d never done that type of work before. Even though I had no training in that particular service or installation I had to do it just to prove to myself I could. I’d finish the job, guarantee my work and in the end what I told the customer was right ‘I could do it!’ So can you!

I’ll first educate you on the ins and outs of a lock, what it is, what the parts are, what it is designed to do. If you have some knowledge of locks, this section will simply enhance what you already know. Until you know more about locks you can’t make a proper judgment on if you want to start your own business let alone become a locksmith. I follow up the first chapter with a glossary that’s included in the last section of this book. The glossary contains many terms used in the locksmithing industry that are important for you to know so you can properly sell, service and install locks of all types to many different types of customers.

Before you start any business it’s vital to create and use a business plan. I include an outline of what a business plan should include, what you should consider when creating a business plan and how to present it to potential lenders as well as employees or partners. A business plan isn’t just for getting loans, it’s a guide that you can use on a regular basis to help run your business the way you want it. Creating a business plan before starting the business will also let you know if you have the experience, the right knowledge and the right idea about this type of business. Most of the businesses that fail in the first 5 years do so because they lack a business plan.

Every business needs quality customer service. If you don’t have an idea of how to treat potential customers before they call you, they may never call you again. I next discuss customer service and how it applies to Locksmithing and how you will use it to your advantage.

Proper customer service policies and techniques will lead to future business with the same customers and will help them to recommend you to their friends and family. Since word-ofmouth advertising is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to gain more business, quality customer service care is vital to the success of your business.

The one thing that every business needs is proper bookkeeping. Without it you won’t know what you are making and neither will the IRS. Of course while this sounds like a good idea, it’s

not and it will come back to haunt you. You must keep records of everything you buy and sell as well as every dollar you make for labor and other fees. You could hire a bookkeeper and just give them your receipts every week or month but for a start-up small business this is not an option that’s wisely chosen. If you don’t know what you’re making and what you’re spending you can’t know what your profit is, or even if you have any.

Now that you have decided on becoming a locksmith and opening your own business you’ll need to know what steps to take before you can actually start accepting calls. You’ll need to get licensed, insured and possibly certified before some localities will allow you to perform locksmithing services. I mention which states currently require licensing as well as whom to contact in your area to find out what’s required in your city or county. Starting your own business requires you to think about how your business is structured. I’ll discuss the types of business structures that are in use today in most states as well as what each one means to you.

I also include information that should help you decide if you want to work from home or if you should lease a commercial building to run your business from.

Unless you have been in the locksmithing business prior to opening your own shop, it’s hard to know what to charge for services. The most important thing is to charge what you are worth. If you don’t know what to charge I provide hints on how to figure this out based on where you are located, your experience and your confidence. The proper pricing schedule will help you to know before the phone rings what you are going to tell potential customers your cost will be for any given service.

This industry frequently provides estimates to potential customers so I have included a chapter on estimates and how to figure out time and costs even if you aren’t certain of how long it will take to complete a job. I also discuss offering free estimates since most people expect them.

Every business needs some type of supplies and yours is no different. Depending on what type of Locksmithing you want, or can do, you’ll need locks, tools and equipment that can only be found through distributors. I list a few distributors to help you get started with purchasing products for resale or tools like lock picks or key machines. I also discuss what not to buy and what one thing you can do that may end up saving you from losing a customer.

Advertising is vital to your new business so I cover some key points that will help you get your business name out to the public, without too much expense. There are many forms of advertising but only some work for this industry.

Since you are reading this book one could assume that you already know about locks, how they work and how to service & repair them. I have included three chapters on rekeying. This includes how to rekey Kwikset, Schlage and Sargent locks as well as different models of each. I also include the necessary steps to remove most commercial knobs and levers so you can easily access the cylinders and go about rekeying them without standing there confused trying to complete the job while your customer stares in wonder at you. Each section describes how to remove the lock cylinder and access it to prepare it for rekeying. Having this information before I started my business would have saved me a lot of time so I’ve included it for you to learn. I also cover how to make new keys as well as the process of pinning a lock cylinder to them so that it works smoothly.

One of the lost arts of locksmithing is impressioning. While you may not have heard of this technique, it may come in handy on a job you are called to do. Impressioning can be done on a

variety of locks so I’ve included the basic steps for two kinds of locks that you may come across during your course of business.

Another technique used by locksmiths for many years is lock bumping and with the recent activity on the Internet regarding this method I thought it best to include a chapter on what this is and how it’s done, without going into too much detail. After all, lock bumping is a lock bypass technique that should only be used by licensed locksmiths therefore I have left out some important steps but have included enough information that should help you learn how to use it to your advantage.

One of the most important things a locksmith can do is increase their service call type.

Implementing access control systems into your field of service will greatly enhance your business base and your profit. There are many aspects of access control from keypads to card readers to systems that connect to a computer so I have included information on each type separately to help you to know what each one can do for your customer and your business.

Along with access control is closed circuit television systems. This security feature is something every locksmith should consider selling to their customers because it benefits both. There are many aspects of CCTV systems so I have just covered the basics but I have included information on how to learn more using other sources. I also include a checklist to help you give proper estimates and take accurate data for each situation.

In the final chapter I give you the background of the Locksmithing industry so you know where and why it started, how the design and use has changed and where it is expected to go in the near future. I believe that the more you know about where Locksmithing came from, the better off you, your customers and your business will be.

At the end of this book I have included a chart on door handing to help you when selling locks or other door hardware. In addition there is a chart that shows you how a door closer operates as well as how to properly select the right door closer for any door application.

Since most people, including me, have a hard time with lock and hardware finishes and colors I have included a chart that contains all of the lock and hardware finishes offered by every manufacturer that I could find. This generally includes two codes as well as a description of each finish so you’ll know which finish code to order from your supplier based on what your customer wants.

While master keying isn’t something most new locksmiths jump right in to, I have also included a chart on how a master keying system works. While this only shows you the different types of master keying it will help you when a customer asks for a keying schedule that you normally wouldn’t be able to comprehend without this chart.

Lastly, as mentioned before, I have included a glossary of terms that are frequently used in the locksmithing industry. This glossary is a compilation of terms that I have learned over the past 10 years of being a locksmith. These terms will assist you when you place orders with your suppliers and with the daily operations of your business.

I hope that this book helps you to create and run your own locksmithing business that outlasts your own life and exceeds your expectations. If done properly any business can succeed, including yours.

Chapter 1 What is a Lock When I was a teenager I helped my grandfather change the locks on an apartment building he owned. Before that I knew basically nothing about locks, why we use them, how they work or why they help keep the bad people out. I knew that if I put a nail into the small hole of the bathroom lock at home and pushed, it would unlock the door but that’s about as much as I knew. We didn’t lock our doors, there wasn’t a need, except when we went to bed our parents would lock them. Locks are a comfort, to help you sleep knowing that someone won’t just walk in on your family as they sleep and steal all of your stuff. Anymore everyone locks their doors even when they are home. On television and in the movies you see people using crude tools to unlock doors, making us think they are picking them open. I later realized that what you see in the movies isn’t always real so when I saw someone pick a lock or use a knife to open a locked door, I wasn’t aware that there was much more going on than it looked like.

Let’s discuss the basics of a lock by first defining the word lock as it applies to locksmithing. n. Any device that prevents access or use by requiring special knowledge or equipment.

Special knowledge refers to things like exit devices where you have to push a bar to open the door or other types of locking devices that require the user to understand what they need to do to open the door. This could be a code entered into a keypad, a card swiped in a reader or a finger placed on a biometric reader. Special equipment refers to keys, lock picks or other lock bypassing tools. That definition of a lock means that a locks main function is to keep people out of somewhere. This means there are multiple types of locks since there can’t be just one design of a lock to prevent access to many types of doors, safes, cabinets, cars, lockers, drawers and anywhere something of value is stored. A valued item can be anything such as money, personal information or your entire family. It’s important to understand that a basic lock is only designed to keep honest people honest since most locks you see at home centers and hardware stores are not designed to withstand forcible attacks or other forms of bypass. Locks sold by locksmiths are as well, with some exceptions. With this in mind you should properly convey to your prospective customers that what they consider valuable should include their family, home, business or car in addition to things like money and jewelry.

Please note: I didn’t write this as a substitute for becoming an apprentice locksmith or as an alternative to a locksmithing class so I won’t go too deep into the anatomy of a lock or on the different types of locks but here are some further basics.

There is a full glossary at the end of this book to help you with these and many more terms.

1. Backset 2. Bitting 3. Blade

9. Key 10. Keyway 11. Latch

4. Chamber 5. Deadbolt 6. Deadlatch 7. Door handing 8. Hinge

12. Milling 13. Plug 14. Pin 15. Shear line 16. Shell

In order to sell your customer a lock, one thing you need to know is the measurement from the latch edge of the door to the cross-bored hole in the door face. This is the backset. The backset is actually supposed to be measured from the center of the edge of the door but this is generally an impossible one to obtain so the measurement is taken from the outside edge of the door. Some doors have a beveled edge. This can cause an incorrect reading on the measurement so it’s advisable to measure from both sides of the door and average the reading to get the most accurate distance. The most common doors that are beveled are doors made of an aluminum frame. Aluminum framed doors are known as storefront doors since that is their primary application. Some storefront doors have a radius edge. These are where two doors are used in a pair and can swing either one direction or both. The radius keeps the doors from hitting each other when they pass by. It’s important to note that if you are replacing a lock on a storefront style door that you notice the edge. The locks that are designed for these doors have faceplates that conform to the type of edge, either radius, beveled or flat. Without the proper faceplate style, the faceplate may hit the door frame or secondary door when closed and cause problems that can lead to lock malfunction.

The bitting is the cuts on a key that are determined by the pins in the lock. The bitting corresponds to the pins so that when inserted, the key aligns the pins to the shear line. The bittings on a key are read from bow to tip. The bow, or head, is the part the keyring is usually attached to and the tip is the part of the key that goes into the lock first. Every cylindrical key has a blade. This is the part that contains the cuts, or bittings, and the milling. The millings (keyway) on the blade determine what lock it will fit into but not what will allow it to turn. Each manufacturer uses multiple keyways but currently the most common ones are SC1 for Schlage, KW1 for Kwikset, Y1 for Yale & LA for Sargent. The different keyways will not fit into a different keyway because they are milled differently. Some manufacturers, like Sargent, have multiple keyways that fit into other keyways, some of which are made by Sargent and specifically designed for a special purpose. These are known as master or sub-master keys and are used on large master keyed systems to help with different needs.

The inside of a standard cylindrical lock contains chambers which are hollow areas drilled out by the manufacturer. These chambers start at the outside of the lock assembly, the shell, and continue to the plug, the part the key is inserted into. Without anything blocking it, the plug could be turned, even with a screwdriver or coin. To prevent this, pins are inserted into each chamber along with springs. Each chamber location corresponds to a bitting on the key. Since each manufacturer uses different specifications to determine the spacing from one chamber to the next the spacing between the chambers varies. The basic chamber, from top to bottom, has a spring cap, spring, top pin & bottom pin. Generally each chamber has a different bottom pin but the top pin and spring are the same, depending on the manufacturer’s specifications. Since the bottom pin is what the key touches, the size of the bottom pin determines the depth of cut on the key blade. This lines the bottom pins up with the top of the plug creating the shear line which allows the plug to be turned thus unlocking or locking the lock. When a lock is picked open, the tools are simply lifting the bottom pins until they line up with the shear line while another tool turns the plug.

A door hinge allows a door to swing either in one direction or in both directions and gives the door its handing. As you stand outside of a door, facing it, if the hinges are on the right, it’s a right-handed door. Even if the hinges are on the inside, it’s still a right-handed door. If, instead you are inside facing the door, the hinges are on your right and the door swings in, it’s called a right-hand reverse bevel. The bevel of a lock is only important when ordering a lock that’s handed. Most locks have reversible latches that are installed in the direction needed.

A latch is a device that has a beveled edge that faces the door frame when the door is opened.

The bevel hits the strike plate or door frame when the door is closed which causes the latch to be pushed into the door. When the latch reaches the hole in the strike plate, it extends, holding the door shut. One thing that I point out to my customers is that a lock that consists of just a latch is not really a good way to lock the door since it can be easily bypassed in most cases so a secondary lock is advised, generally a deadbolt. Most residential doors that I have come across have some movement in them when locked. This is due to the expansion and contraction of the wood and/or metal material that is used. Because of this, the alignment of the latch in the strike plate hole can become off and allow someone to force the deadlatch into the hole which causes the latch to lose its security. A credit card or other thin stiff device could then be forced between the door and frame, pushing the latch back into the door and allowing it to be opened. In cases where only a lock with a deadlatch can be used, a latch guard is recommended. This protects the area around the latch, keeping someone from prying or shimming the latch to get the door opened. Most of the time this is only an issue when using some types of access control devices where a keyed deadbolt or other type of secondary lock cannot be used.

Deadbolts are generally not handed. Deadbolts & deadlocks (basically the same thing) are designed to keep forcible entry from occurring, if properly installed. To properly install a deadbolt, in addition to the factory specified instructions, a reinforced strike plate is needed. I’ve used both a ¼” thick steel strike secured with #10 3” wood screws and a standard 1/8” thick plate that accepts 4 screws. In both cases the plate needs to be mortised to further increase its integrity. It’s important to secure the strike plate to the framing of the building. Since standard wood framing requires a stud directly behind the door frame, it’s generally not a problem to install using this method. Commercial door frames are mostly metal so a strike plate is not needed. In the case of a wood frame on a commercial application the residential mounting style is recommended if it can be accomplished. Standard door deadbolts generally have a 1” throw which means the distance the bolt travels from unlocked to fully locked. The bolts of the best deadbolts have some type of reinforcement inside them, be it ball bearings or rolled steel, to prevent sawing of the bolt to gain access. Cheaper deadbolts have no reinforcement. When a deadbolt lock is fully locked, the mechanism has a part that causes it to deadlock, keeping the bolt from being pried back to unlocked. This is why deadbolts are sometimes called deadlocks.

On storefront style doors the deadbolt can either be a short ½” throw or a longer 1-3/8” throw.

The shorter deadbolts slide in and out like standard door deadbolts but the larger ones actually flip up when locked. This poses a problem when converting this type of lock to an access control application since the slot in the door frame for the longer bolts must be long enough to allow the bolt to bypass it when locked and unlocked. Most electric strikes that are used in access control situations use a 4-7/8” tall faceplate but when converting from a bolt to a latch, a larger plate must be used to allow an area for both screws to mount to. I’ll cover more on access control in Chapter 15.

A deadlatch is generally the small part of a spring latch that you may find on most locks. When the door is closed, the deadlatch rests on the faceplate so that it is only pushed in about half

way. This causes the larger latch to become deadlatched and is so named. Some manufacturers also make a full lock that is called a deadlatch. These are also referred to as gate locks since that is their primary application. The lock appears to be a deadbolt from the outside but instead of a solid bolt it uses a spring latch with a deadlatch. When the proper key is inserted and turned, it retracts the latch allowing someone to open the door or gate. When they then close the door or gate, the latch operates as normal which allows the door or gate to close and latch shut, thus locking it. Gatelatches are a great solution when using an electric strike for access control on any gate or door that has any opening that could allow someone to reach through and unlock a standard door knob or lever lock. Gatelatches are available in both single and double cylinder models but in most cases a double cylinder is needed.

I advise you to read Chapter 17 to get an idea of how locksmithing started and where it is going so you can know which part of locksmithing you want to do and what will withstand the test of time. Since there are many areas of locksmithing you should consider which area or areas you could best serve your potential customers. Some locksmiths choose to offer the whole locksmith service, selling and servicing everything from keys to safes to access control to automotive locks. Each area has its pros and cons. If you sell keys you need a key machine to copy them and possibly a code machine to make keys by code. If you sell and service safes you would need safe keys to change combinations as well as an extensive line of technical manuals since each safe manufacturer uses their own specifications. You may also need safe drilling equipment. Automotive locksmiths generally have a large selection of key blanks for the most common vehicles used in their area as well as replacement ignitions, door locks, trunk locks and a series of technical manuals to help them know how to remove an ignition without damaging the air bag or steering column. Access control technicians need to know how to work with low voltage power, what types of systems work best on different applications and with different customer needs. It’s also advisable to know a little about electronics, voltages and currents as well as being able to use fish tape and be willing to crawl into areas that generally nobody wants to be in.

After you read this book I hope you will have decided if locksmithing is right for you and in what area or areas you want to handle. Knowing what you want is the first step. The following chapters will guide you through the rest.

Chapter 2 Business Plan Before you start any business you need a plan. It’s the best way for you to know how you want to run your new business. If you have a partner or employees, a business plan is a way for you to let them know what you expect out of this business and what they can do to help you achieve it. When you get to a place in your business where you need to get a loan, having a business plan will get you one step closer as most lenders require one before they will even consider loaning to a business. The following paragraphs are mostly formed as questions. Do not simply put the answer and question on your business plan. You need to form complete sentences and paragraphs in your plan which describes your business the way a potential lender or partner would want to see it. Consider this an essay about your business.

Section 1 Contact Information The first part if your plan should be your contact information. It should have your business name, phone number, fax number, your name, your position, business address & any other information you feel necessary. You should consider a disclaimer on the first page that lets readers know that your plan should remain confidential, unauthorized reproductions are prohibited and a statement from you showing that you take full responsibility for everything contained within it.

The following is a copy of the disclaimer I used on my business plan:

Disclaimer The information contained in this plan is confidential and is intended only for the persons to whom it is submitted and to the officers of the company of which they represent.

Any reproduction of this plan, in whole or in part, or the divulgence of any of its contents, without prior written consent of this company is prohibited. Possession of this document does not convey any rights to disclose its contents, in whole or in part, to any third party.

The information set forth herein is believed by the proprietor of the company to be reliable. It must be recognized, however, that projections and predictions about this company’s future performance is necessarily subject to a high degree of uncertainty, and no warranty of such projections is expressed or implied.

Please do not copy this disclaimer and use it in any way. You need to create your own.

Section 2 Table of Contents The second part of your plan should have the table of contents, which should also include the page numbers of each section. Generally the best time to make the table of contents is after the plan is completed.

Section 3 History of you & your company On the third part of your business plan put your work history. Be sure to include any jobs where you managed other employees, did paperwork, made work schedules, ordered stock or dealt with money. Also include what your plan is for the business such as hiring employees or leasing a commercial building to expand your business. This is not the area for your résumé as it will be included later.

Section 4 Products & Services What products and services are you offering? Describe each one with detail. Are you providing 24/7 services? What services or products are you offering that fill a niche in your area? What are some of your expected sales & service prices? Do you have a set profit margin you would like to follow? What products do you expect to sell more of? What service do you plan to do that will provide most of your income? What forms of payment are you planning on accepting? List the cost of accepting credit cards, bank fees on returned checks, etc. Are you going to issue invoices to your customers? If so, what are your terms? What is your plan if a customer doesn’t pay an invoice on time or at all?

Section 5 Your Market What types of people are in your market area? Average ages, sex, income level, housing situations, married or single, college students, professionals, white collar workers? Are your customers going to be mostly residential or commercial? If commercial, what types of businesses do you expect to call you most often or which ones will net you the most profit?

Who are your competitors? Name them and describe what part of Locksmithing they service and which ones you will be doing that maybe they don’t do or those that you will be doing that they do as well. What sets you apart from the rest?

Section 6 Marketing Plan I discuss advertising in Chapter 9. You’ll need to include your plan of attack when it comes to getting your business name and number out to the public. Are you just going to sit by the phone and hope people call or are you going to try different possible advertising solutions? If you use business cards, explain how you think this will help increase repeat business. Are you passing those out to every customer or just potential ones? Are you going to advertise in the phone book? What are your options in phone directory advertising and which ones will help your business. Are you advertising on your vehicle or clothes? What are the costs involved in all aspects of advertising? What other forms of advertising are you considering that may help increase the amount of calls you get?

Section 7 Management As mentioned in Section 3, what is your name and work history? This should contain at least the past 3 jobs you held as well as details about each of them. This is similar to what you’d put on a job application but with more information. If you’ve had any jobs where you dealt with customers be sure to include that since customer service is an important part of your new business. What have you learned from working for other people that will help you with your new business? What experiences have you had at your past jobs that you think has prepared you to start a business and keep it running? Do you have any locksmithing training? Is there anyone else in your business endeavor that will be assisting you with any aspect of running the business? If so, list them as well with their job experiences and any training in this field.

Section 8 Operations Where will you be operating your business from? Describe its location in relation to possible public traffic that may help your business. If working from home, list that you will doing all functions of the business from a room specifically for that purpose. If you don’t plan on having a home office or an area for running your business, you should reconsider but put that on your plan if you don’t have an office area but that it may be in the future. List your licenses when you get them. What tools & equipment are you bringing to the business from your personal collection that will be needed to run the business?

Section 9 Suppliers List the suppliers that you plan on purchasing your resalable products as well as tools from. List their name, phone number and at least their state if not the full address. Describe what types of products, with some short descriptions, that you will be purchasing or have purchased for sale in the operation of your business. What are the payment terms as well as shipping times from those suppliers?

Section 10 Appendices If you have more than one section to your appendices, list them in index format. If you have a résumé put it here and reference to it from the Management section of your plan. Include an estimated price list for products and services you plan on offering. If you have any advertisements include those as well. When you get your business running, update your appendices to include profit & loss statements, expense reports, inventory amounts and other things that you can’t really estimate at this time.

Feel free to include any other item in your business plan that you feel is necessary to the overall idea of your business. This is your business plan and should be outlined the way you want it.

If the time comes when you need to request a loan or are trying to get a partner in your business, you’ll need to go through your business plan and update it. It should include tax returns for the past 3 years – even if they are only personal returns because you represent your business and so do your tax returns. You’ll also need financial statements as required by the lending institution and they can provide blank forms for that. If you are married and your business is a sole proprietorship, your spouse should be included with any financial statements.

In addition, any business plan submitted to a bank or lender should include a cover page and a Funds Required section. The Funds Required section should be toward the end. Make sure you put that in the Table of Contents as most lenders will go directly to that page first.

Make certain that every page of your business plan has numbered pages, except for page 1.

Be sure to number your appendices with letters or roman numerals if your main plan uses simple numbering.

Your business plan is a valuable resource for you to look back on once in a while to make sure you are following it. To make sure you can, have copies of it in secure locations.

Chapter 3 Customer Service After leaving the locksmith company I worked for I gave up on my idea of becoming a locksmith so I went on with my life, working wherever I could but still doing something that made me feel worth getting up every morning. I worked as a house framer, as a laborer for a house builder, on a golf course trimming weeds, on another golf course that was under construction, as a warehouseman, as a semi-truck detailer, a pizza delivery driver, a pizza cook and even as a pizza restaurant manager. The one thing that I took from most of those jobs was customer service.

Without proper customer service techniques any business will eventually fail. I don’t fully believe that the ‘customer is always right’ as some people may tell you. In some cases you can convince the customer that while they may think they are right, they are in fact wrong but you can do it without them blacklisting you forever and telling their friends to avoid your business.

It’s important to make sure the customer is happy. If they are unhappy about something that you did, give them something to make them happy. This may be replacing whatever it is that they purchased from you at no cost to them or repairing it immediately. If you can do neither, refer them to someone that can and offer to cover half the cost or if you refer them to a locksmith that you know, work it out with that locksmith directly, possibly trading with them so your customer is happy and you aren’t out too much time or money. You may think at the time that you’ve “just lost money on this job” but if you make the customer happy, they will make sure their friends and family know who to call if they have a lock or security problem. It’s not because you gave them the best price or that you took care of their initial problem quickly, it’s that after the fact they had an issue with your work and you did everything you could to remedy it just to satisfy them. They will remember you for your customer service ability.

This reminds me of an instance in where a restaurant patron is dissatisfied with their meal and, as per the large sign on the wall “100% satisfaction guaranteed”, wants a full refund. The employee at the counter tells them they have to fill out a form to get their money back and points out that they had already eaten most of their meal. The customer and employee begin yelling at each other; meanwhile the manager is nowhere to be found. The other customers are looking in disbelief at the situation. After the employee swears at the customer, the manager pops in, fires the employee, gives the customer his $1.99 back and apologizes for the behavior of the employee. That customer will return to that business because of the customer service from the manager and the satisfaction he got from someone finally saying that he was right, even though the manager never said those words, giving him his money back gave him the feeling that he was right. You might think that if the customer wasn’t happy with the food why would he return. Most people realize that sometimes businesses aren’t at the top of their game every day and that could have been one of those days where it just wasn’t good food. Because of this they will give them a second chance and usually the second time is better than any time there was a problem.

I like to tell people that I have the best prices and the best service in the area. While I may think this is true it may not be. I don’t know how other locksmiths operate or what they charge for any service or product. I hear from customers that ‘John Doe’s Lock Service’ charges a certain fee for a service or product and that’s more than what I charge so I take that information and share it with other customers, without mentioning the other locksmith company. Some customers will

call me late at night and need immediate service and tell me that their regular locksmith isn’t answering the phone or is unavailable to help them. As a business owner and locksmith I don’t understand why any owner would allow their regular customers to call someone else for any type of service at any time. This gives that new business the opportunity to get a new long-term customer. It’s because of the lack of after-hours service from others that I began to get more and more repeat commercial business.

There was one instance when the owner of a pharmacy called me at about 10PM one night during the week because they had a break-in and needed a lock repaired or replaced. The job was in another town about 30 miles outside of the city but I was more than happy to help them.

I didn’t expect anything from them except payment for that one job when I completed it. I was able to repair some of the damage which enabled them to secure the building until the next day when they could get a person that could repair metal frames to come out and fix the rest.

Because I knew my product and knew what the customer needed to prevent this in the future, I was able to sell them other products, even though I didn’t have them in stock. I ordered the other products and installed them for the customer, charging them for another service call as well. Since they knew this ahead of time it wasn’t a problem so make sure you let your customers know of all charges before you do any work. This customer was so happy that I was able to help them at that time and that I was professional in my work and knowledge of my business they called me every time they needed a locksmith and threw their old locksmith’s number away. As it turned out, this customer owned close to 20 locations in many different cities around the area I serviced. I helped them whenever they needed it, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and they were more than happy to pay whatever it took to resolve the issue. A couple years later, after adding additional locations and a new central warehouse, they called me again to see about access control for all of their locations. Unfortunately before they could decide on what they wanted to do I moved to another state but I’ll always remember that if I wasn’t there when the phone rang and was willing to help them, I wouldn’t have had such a great customer. There were many other customers that were regular because of the same reason – I was there when they needed help.

If a locksmith can make themselves available to every customer, not just those that are their regulars, at any time, they can then increase their business revenue by helping those in need at odd hours so those customers will then pass the word along to everyone they know. Word of mouth advertising is one of the best ways to get your name out to the public; unfortunately it can also lead to the demise of your business if you don’t provide every customer with excellent customer service. Negative advertising spreads faster than positive does so it’s important to work up a customer service policy. Even if you aren’t planning on having employees, having a layout of the way you want to handle customer service will help you to handle situations quicker and with better results than if you don’t have a plan.

The first thing on your list should be how you plan to deal with a customer that’s unhappy with a service or product you have sold them. You should outline different situations that may arise as well as possible dialog from the customer. While unhappy customers should never be at the top of any thoughts when doing business, it should be at the top of a list on how to turn that customer into a satisfied one. If you don’t think you can turn that customer around within a short time without yelling at them or trying to convince them that they are wrong, you need to learn the best methods to accomplish this before it happens. An unhappy customer can turn into a violent one if you don’t handle the situation correctly with the utmost professionalism.

Next, list what you would do if a customer doesn’t want to pay you the amount you previously agreed to for a service or product you have sold them. If it’s just a service call fee, reason with

them that they agreed to it and they should live up to their agreement. If you need to, agree to lower the price by a little but don’t give them this option until other possible solutions have been tried with no result. If the price dispute is over a product your solution will be different from that of one that’s just labor since you have a real cost to cover in obtaining that product. You don’t want to let them talk you in to lowering the price on a product and generally if I felt the need to resolve a dispute, I would lower my labor or service call fee a bit. The difference wouldn’t be as much as they wanted on the cost of the product but it would show them that you care about making them happy with you and your company. You don’t always have to lower a price to solve this type of problem. Offer a discount on their next service or tell them you’ll warranty your service for a period of time. Our warranty on service and labor was 30 days. If the product or products I sold them failed during that time, I would get a replacement if needed then physically replace it without charge to them. If it simply needed repair or an adjustment, I would go there and fix it at no charge to them, but try to schedule other jobs in the area at the same time to reduce cost on fuel and time. The customer doesn’t need to know you needed to be nearby; they just need to know that you are willing to stand by your service and the products you sell.

It may be a good idea when agreeing to a service on the phone to require prepayment either with a credit card over the phone or cash when you arrive. Mostly I found this to only be an issue with automobile lockouts. When you arrive, require payment before you even touch a tool. Assure them that if for some reason you can’t perform the required job in a short time, or the time they request, that they will get their money back. There is no reason to charge someone for a service call if you can’t do anything to help them. It’s not their fault you lack the ability, so in order to prevent this, know what you are doing before you agree to help someone.

This keeps you from losing money and time on a job you can’t complete.

Another customer service issue deals with promising a customer that you can complete a service in a certain time and that you have all the necessary tools, equipment and product needed to complete that job. Don’t ever tell or show a customer that you don’t know what you are doing. You may know that you can’t install an electric strike but if you learn what you can before you show up for the job and you have faith in yourself that you can professionally install it, you will and you will feel much better when you are done.

I had a customer call on me one day and request an estimate on installing an access control system in a remodel job he was working on. I had been in business about 2 years and hadn’t dealt with that part of security yet but I knew I could learn enough to be able to do the job and that it would work as it should when I finished. They had requested electric strikes and card readers. Instead, after discussing with my distributor their options, I was able to convince this customer, who I never dealt with before, that the best option was stand-alone readers that had the audit function the end user wanted. As it turned out, I got the job and not only installed the original 4 locks but after seeing how well they worked, they had me install a 5th. I spent time with the end user after the first 4 to show them how to use the software so they could program and audit the system and learned that sometimes you can give people too much information at once so I made sure the second time I was there to ask them if they had questions or needed help with programming or anything regarding the locks. After answering a few questions they seemed satisfied that not only I was able to get them the control they needed but the training required to operate them and since the system is fairly simple, it made my job easier. That customer then referred me to 3 other people who then had me install the same type of systems on their businesses and because of the distance to travel to those places was quite far, I was able to make extra money on the service call in each instance. I didn’t tell the customer this was the first time I had done this, instead I took a piece of wood at home, used it as a temporary

door and installed one lock on it before I ever stepped foot in that first customer’s business.

This showed me that I could install it, professionally and without problems, plus it allowed me to figure out how much time it would take for each door which helped me decide if my labor estimate was enough – thankfully it was.

Because I took the time to learn about those locks I was able to point out the positive aspects of it to my prospective customer which helped me to get the job. If you don’t know the product, you can’t sell it. Part of customer service is knowing your products. Don’t try to learn everything about every product all at once, start small. Most manufacturers have downloadable files from their websites that contain basic and technical information on their products. Download them, save them to your computer and read them when you have time. Print them off and take them with you in your service vehicle, or to your current job if you haven’t started your locksmith business yet. Read them on your breaks or between jobs. You don’t need to know everything a lock or security device can do, only enough to show the customer that you have taken the time to learn the product and what it can do to help them with whatever their current situation may be. Knowing your product also will help you to up sell your customers. Up selling is when a customer wants you to rekey their locks and you notice a lock they have may be worn, broken or insufficient to their needs. You then offer them a lock that may have a long warranty or provide better protection than their current one. Without knowing your product you may not know that what you have in stock is better than what they have. It’s also helpful to know that a single knob lock won’t provide the same protection as a deadbolt, which you can then up sell to them. You don’t want to force something on them because they will never change their mind.

Offer it to them but also tell them why it’s better than what they have and how it will help them.

If you show up to a job and find that you need a tool, don’t ask the customer for it unless it’s your very last recourse. They will think you are unprofessional and may not call on you again.

This goes back to the negative advertising that you don’t want. Make sure you clean up after your jobs. A clean locksmith will be remembered for his professional work and the price they paid will be a second thought. A locksmith that leaves a mess will be remembered as the locksmith that charged too much and didn’t clean up. It’s just bad customer service to ask a customer for help unless that customer and you have a good relationship from a long time of business together. The long relationship can help them to understand your situation better, how you operate and that you may not have everything necessary at every job to complete it quickly and professionally. While you can’t prepare for every job, you need to have the basic tools before you step into it and the most important tool you can have is the best customer service you can provide.

It’s important that you follow up with your customers to find out what you can do differently that may help them to be a happier customer or to recommend you to people they know. Also find out where they heard about you so you can determine if any advertising you are doing is worth what you are paying for it.

Provide a complete service package to your customers. Make sure all of your customer’s needs are met from beginning to end of the service call. Show up on time or no more than 10 minutes before the scheduled time to show the customer that you value them and care about taking care of their needs quickly. Before you show up for a job, make sure your clothing and body are free of dirt, grease or grime, that your hands are clean so you can shake their hand when meeting them and that your vehicle is kept professional. Your clothes need to be professional. I’m not saying you need a suit and tie because that would just get ruined in this business, I’m saying that you should wear a nice shirt, possibly with your company name on it, a good pair of slacks, jeans or shorts that aren’t faded, torn or sagging and shoes that are not going to mess up their

floors. Consider using shoe covers before entering a customer’s home - that shows them respect.

Chapter 4 Bookkeeping Keeping a record of every transaction, both income and expense, is vital to the proper operation of any business and yours is no exception. You’ll need a way to issue receipts to your customers since most of them will want one. This can be accomplished a number of ways, the cheapest of which I find is to buy receipt books from an office supply store. There are many different styles available so you should be able to find one that suits your needs. I suggest either printing labels or getting a stamp made with your business name and applying one of them to every receipt. It can include your phone number or just your business name, although including your phone number is probably best. Make sure when you fill out your receipts that your customer can read them and that they detail each expense separately so they know what they are paying for. Some locksmiths say that detailing the expenses is a waste of time and that some customers may prefer a one line receipt that just shows the total cost but I have always detailed the receipts.

Part of the reason I detail receipts is because of sales tax. If you live in an area that doesn’t require sales tax, detailing the receipts may not be needed but I still recommend this because it will help you to know what products or services your sales are coming from. If you don’t detail them, it’s harder for you to know what you figured on the price of one service or another so your profit and loss may be harder to calculate. Another reason I detail receipts is so if I have serviced a regular customer that I give a discount to, I can discount only the labor so my profit margin on product stays the same. You should get a receipt book that has at least two copies so you can keep one for bookkeeping purposes and to refer to later for customer questions if needed.

Another way to issue receipts is with a computer program. There are many available so you’ll have to search around to find one that is best for you. These programs can also help with your bookkeeping needs by allowing you to print reports such as your profit & loss statement whenever you need it. Some programs are great for tax returns as most accountants can upload your data file then calculate your returns based on that, with less work for you and them.

If you work mostly in the field, a computer program will only help you if you have a laptop and a printer that you can use in your vehicle. This is why written receipts usually work best for service-related industries such as locksmithing.

You need to keep your bookkeeping records up-to-date and the best way to do this is to plan a time every week to update them. If you wait too long, it can get overwhelming and you won’t want to do it at all, trust me. I recommend separating your income by product sales and labor.

This helps you to know what advertising methods work best for the highest profit – labor. It also helps you to know where in your business you need to make changes to your prices, if at all.

Part of bookkeeping is tracking your expenses. This includes all of your bills such as phone, vehicle expenses, advertising, banking fees, insurance, licenses, office supplies, tools, inventory and any other expense directly related to your business. If you are using your personal vehicle for business, you must keep accurate records of each trip made for business and those made for personal use. This includes the total miles for both and should include a date and/or a reference to any job-related travel you have in case you get audited. You also need to keep an

accurate inventory list. Your inventory list should include the item, quantity and cost of each item. You will need this for your tax returns at the end of the year. If you aren’t sure what qualifies as a business expense, contact your accountant or tax professional.

Make sure you pay your bills on time. The only bills that can wait if needed are those such as phone directory ads since they can’t stop your ad from running just because you are late. The phone company, on the other hand, can turn off your phone if you miss a phone payment, which will cut your business off from sales. Your suppliers will stop selling to you if you don’t pay on time and this can lead to lack of inventory which will stop you from making any up sales or extra income from a product sale.

If you have employees, never, ever pay them late and never, ever underpay them. Underpaid employees will eventually cost any business time and money so it’s best to think of them as a partner in your business because generally you have an employee (or employees) because the quantity of calls you get exceeds what you can do yourself. If you pay them what they are worth, they will help you build the business and increase your profit. Many businesses fail because they underpay, or don’t pay, their employees and the owner can’t keep it afloat by themselves. Employees are your greatest asset. Treat them that way and you will succeed.

Make sure you pay your employment taxes in full and on time. It’s best to keep a separate checking account just for this purpose so they are always taken care of.

When the time comes to send in your tax returns, the first year or two you should be able to do them yourself but I recommend that you consider using a tax specialist. Usually one that isn’t part of a big chain of tax return people is best since they will work with small businesses and help them grow.

Chapter 5 So You Want to Be a Locksmith In years past, anyone that wanted to learn the locksmith trade had to first be hired as an apprentice locksmith. The apprenticeship would last anywhere from 2 to 5 years, depending on the locksmith that was teaching them. The time spent as an apprentice gives most people more knowledge about locks of all types, customer service and more than anyone could ever learn from a book or a class. First-hand experience is always the best way to learn something new, or to learn more about something you already know something about, regardless of the type of industry it is. While I never was an apprentice locksmith, I did have the opportunity to work for a locksmith for about a month. The short time I was there showed me that the study course that I had previously taken had only taught me the basics of locksmithing which unfortunately wasn’t enough to venture out on my own as a locksmith. However it was enough time to see that I needed more education about this field if I wanted to pursue it, either on my own or under the direction of an experienced locksmith.

If you can’t find an open apprenticeship or a locksmith that will hire you and train you, you need to learn the basics of locksmithing first and then move on to the other aspects. While I covered some of the terms in a previous chapter, those will only help you to identify the parts of a lock.

You’ll need some sort of training to start to understand how locks work & how to take them apart and reassemble them properly. I have included some information in Chapters 10 through 12 regarding rekeying which should help you. There are many companies providing correspondence courses for locksmithing that you can take at your own home, during any spare time you have and at your own pace. These courses only cover the basic function of a lock and its keys but once you know the basics you can take the learning further by visiting your local library and checking out books on locksmithing. Some of those books may cover locks that are no longer made but since those may be installed on current doors, you should know how they work and how to service them, if not just how to remove them to replace them with a newer model.

Once you have learned a little about locksmithing, you may decide you want to take this a step further and become a locksmith yourself by opening a locksmithing business. In order to do this you first need to decide if you have the ability to deal with customers properly, as previously discussed. The next step is to see how much financial security you have. Starting any business is a difficult feat but it can be done with the right knowledge, and enough money. I’m not saying you need thousands of dollars in savings before you go any further, nor do you need to quit your current job. In fact I’d say quitting your job now would be disastrous and spending all of your savings on starting your business may be as well.

Before you attempt to get a license, come up with a business name. Most businesses that use a family name in it don’t work well so come up with something original. “AAAAAAA Lock & Key” is only going to get you at the top of the list in the yellow pages but it won’t help you with anything else. You can search the web and your state’s business license records to see if any other business uses any name you come up with before deciding on just one. Most states won’t allow the name of your new business to be the same as any other business in the state, either past or present. You wouldn’t want this anyway as the other business may be remembered as bad. Remember that the business name you decide on will be the one that people remember

you by. It will be the way you answer your phone. It will be associated with your own name since you will most likely have it on your business cards as well as your license.

You should also decide how you want your business structured. There are 5 different types to choose from and those are covered next. Some excellent resources for helping you decide on which type of structure to use can be found at the IRS website http://www.irs.gov under the Business tab, as well as the Small Business Administration’s website http://www.sba.gov at the Small Business Planner link. This information can also be found at your local library and on many other websites not listed here.

Sole Proprietor Most people just starting out simply go with a Sole Proprietorship which simply put means that you, as the owner, are responsible for everything that business does. The IRS sees you and your business as the same entity as does your state, county and city. When you send in your year-end tax forms, you will calculate your personal and business income as one in the same.

Any profit from your business will be included as income and you will pay tax on that amount.

Be warned, the IRS charges a self-employment tax in addition to the other taxes you must pay based on your income so depending on how much your adjusted income is you may owe taxes.

I recommend you see if you need to pay estimated tax to the IRS every quarter. This will help you in two ways: 1) paying estimated taxes lessens the chance that you owe any later; and 2) paying enough estimated tax keeps you from having to own underpayment fees to the IRS.

Partnership A partnership is a type of business entity in which partners share with each other the profits or losses of the business undertaking in which they have all invested. This can be you and a friend, parent, spouse or child or just someone that shares the same interest as you and can input half of the financial responsibility as you do. This can also be more than just two people if there are many interested in your business. Of course the investment you and your partner make doesn’t have to be 50/50, it can be any division. The division you choose when creating the partnership will determine how much of the company’s profits you get compared to your partner. It also determines the amount of liability you share. A partnership must file an annual information return to report the income, deductions, gains, losses etc., from its operations, but it does not pay income tax. Instead, it "passes through" any profits or losses to its partners. Each partner includes his or her share of the partnership's income or loss on his or her tax return.

Partners are not employees.

Corporation In forming a corporation, prospective shareholders exchange money, property, or both, for the corporation's capital stock. A corporation generally takes the same deductions as a sole proprietorship to figure its taxable income. A corporation can also take special deductions. The profit of a corporation is taxed to the corporation when earned, and then is taxed to the shareholders when distributed as dividends. However, shareholders cannot deduct any loss of the corporation.

S Corporation

An eligible domestic corporation can avoid double taxation (once to the shareholders and again to the corporation) by electing to be treated as an S corporation. Generally, an S corporation is exempt from federal income tax other than tax on certain capital gains and passive income. On their tax returns, the S corporation's shareholders include their share of the corporation's separately stated items of income, deduction, loss, and credit, and their share of non-separately stated income or loss.

Limited Liability Company (LLC) Limited Liability Company (LLC) is a relatively new business structure allowed by state statutes.

LLCs are popular because, similar to a corporation, owners have limited personal liability for the debts and actions of the LLC. Other features of LLCs are more like a partnership, providing management flexibility and the benefit of pass-through taxation. Owners of an LLC are called members. Since most states do not restrict ownership, members may include individuals, corporations, other LLCs and foreign entities. There is no maximum number of members. Most states also permit “single member” LLCs, those having only one owner. A few types of businesses generally cannot be LLCs, such as banks, insurance companies and nonprofit organizations. Check your state’s requirements and the federal tax regulations for further information.

Now that you’ve figured out your business structure and name, you’ll need to find out if your state, county or city requires a locksmith license. Contact the business license department at each location to find out if you need one. If so, this may put a barrier in your way since some entities require locksmiths to have experience in the field obtained from another locksmith shop, a membership in a locksmith trade group or certification from a nationally-recognized locksmith training course. The Associated Locksmiths of America (ALOA) provides testing to locksmiths, and those wanting to be a locksmith, that is recognized by most states that require licenses. If your state requires it, contact ALOA to see if they are testing in your area. You can find them at http://www.aloa.org. You don’t have to be a member to test but it does cost more if you aren’t.

There are different levels of certification depending on what areas of the field a person knows so you can start at the bottom level and that should be enough to pass most states’ requirements.

As of this writing, there are 9 states that require a locksmith to be licensed: 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

Alabama California Illinois Louisiana New Jersey North Carolina Oklahoma Tennessee Texas

You should check with your state or ALOA even if your state isn’t listed because the laws can change quickly.

In addition to states, counties and cities (townships) may require a locksmith to be licensed.

This may also mean you’ll need a bond. Bonding can be obtained from most insurance companies so be sure to shop around prior to making a commitment to one. Some cities, like the one I started in, required a license bond which only covers the city if a legal dispute arose

and does not cover your customer. To cover any damage you may cause to a customer’s facility you’ll need liability insurance. This too is available from most insurance companies so be sure to shop around. I recommend obtaining inventory insurance as well liability. If any of your inventory gets stolen or damaged you’ll want to be covered for your losses. Also check with your current automobile insurance company and see if they require anything extra for you using your personal vehicle for business use. Some insurance companies may raise your rates but most will not.

Additionally you may need to submit your fingerprints and a personal history to the state, county or city that is requiring a locksmith to be licensed. Your fingerprints are run using an FBI search that checks for any past felonies that are associated with you. If they find any, you won’t get a license.

You may want to apply for a federal employer ID number (EIN). This doesn’t mean you have employees, nor are you planning on hiring any. The EIN is to help the IRS, banks and any financial institutions identify your business separately from you personally. While this alone will not protect your personal assets, it will help and it’s free. You can apply for an EIN by visiting the IRS website at: https://sa1.www4.irs.gov/modiein/individual/index.jsp, or if that link doesn’t work, go to http://www.irs.gov and click on Businesses then find the area for ID numbers.

If your state collects sales tax, you’ll need to apply for a tax id number. This is different from the EIN since it’s issued by the state, not the IRS. Your state business tax department will help you with applying and with calculating the tax due. When you sell a product you must charge sales tax in areas that require it. The rate is determined on where your business address is located.

Each state, county and city has different rates and they change often so make sure you keep up with them. Every month, quarter or year you will need to figure the amount of tax you collected based on the amount of taxable sales you had then pay your state’s sales tax division that amount. It’s advisable that you open a separate savings account at your bank to keep your sales tax in so when the time comes to pay, the money is in there and ready to send, this way it’s not late so you’ll not owe late fees. Plus some banks give you interest on even low balance savings accounts so you’ll make a few extra pennies in the process.

If you plan on doing business with the US government or any large corporations you’ll need to get a Dun & Bradstreet (DUNS) number. Getting a number is free but they will try to talk you in to more services which cost money. In most cases the free number is all you need. You can apply for a DUNS number here: http://www.dnb.com/us/. This number will help businesses and government buyers by giving them access to data collected by Dun & Bradstreet about your business. This helps validate your business with those entities which gives you more opportunity to get more business from them. Make sure you keep your information with D&B updated so if you hire employees, change locations, add or change phone numbers or change banks you’ll want that changed in your D&B file. Most of the time large corporations and the federal government prefer to pay invoices by depositing the money directly into your bank account. This is known as an ACH (Automated Clearing House) payment and is a service that most banks don’t charge for. It’s simply an electronic transfer of money from one place to another. For more information on ACH payments, contact your bank.

Speaking of banks, one of the best things you can do as a new business owner is to open at least one business checking account. Make sure you use your EIN and not your social security number when applying for a business account. The bank will report any interest income to your business accounts to the IRS by using your EIN and it should be associated with your business, not you personally, although with the business structure you decide on it may not make a

difference. In addition to a primary business checking account, for those of you planning on receiving ACH payments or direct deposits, I suggest opening a second account in the business name. When you give your customers your ACH or direct deposit information, give them the secondary account information. Once you receive funds in that account, transfer it to your primary. This will protect that account from fraudulent withdrawals and protect your primary account since they don’t have access to the account information.

Now that you have a license, you’ll need to register your new business name with the Secretary of State’s office in your state. You’ll register it as a fictitious name as required by your state’s laws. This allows you to use your business name legally in the course of business.

You don’t need a commercial store for your new business because, just as I did, you can start it from home. Make sure your local laws allow you to have a business at home as some require special requirements before they will allow you to do so. Some localities require that you allow a representative from that entity to visit your home business without notice to ensure that the laws are being followed. Home-based businesses have grown in popularity in the past 5 years so there are more laws being written into the books to cover possible problems that may arise from people working from home. Generally this is an issue when a business owner works from home and also has an employee that works from the same home. That employee is only allowed in the home to conduct business during certain hours. Additionally laws may prevent you from having customers come to your home to conduct business. This keeps your neighbors happy since it cuts down on the traffic on your street and it keeps your city or county happy because they don’t have to spend money on extra street maintenance on roads that were designed for residential use. While most of the time you are allowed to receive packages at your home from delivery companies, there may be limits to this as well depending on your location. Most of the time you cannot advertise that you have a business if you run it from your home. This means you can’t place a sign in your yard stating as such because it will draw attention and possibly traffic to your home. You can, however, advertise on your vehicle.

Working from home can be difficult. You feel comfortable and relaxed at home so most new business owners have a hard time separating personal life at home from business life at home.

The best way to bypass this is to take over one room in your house as your own. Everything regarding the business that you do every day needs to be done only in that room. Pay bills, do your accounting, write receipts, order product, make and receive phone calls only from there so that when you leave that room, your work for the day is done. If you get an after hours call while in your living room, simply use a cordless phone and walk into your office to complete the call. I would advise you to get a separate phone line installed in your new home office so you can keep your business and personal life separate, plus you can generally write off the expense of the phone on your tax return since it’s a 100% business expense. If you use your home phone for business, you’d only be able to deduct a smaller percentage of the cost and it’s difficult to determine what percentage of calls that are made or received on that phone are businessrelated. If you already have a cellular phone, you could instead just use that phone as your primary business number. Make sure you don’t use it for personal calls because then you’d have to figure a percentage again. Now that most cellular phone companies let you transfer your phone number from one carrier to another, using this number for your primary business number on your business cards and all advertising shouldn’t be a problem unless you find that a land-line number would suit you better.

You’ll have to use your own personal vehicle for service calls unless you can afford a van or something strictly for business so it needs to have enough storage for your tools and any product you want to keep in stock. You’ll also need an area to keep your pinning kit as well as a

place to be able to sit comfortably while you rekey locks. If you try to rekey locks bent over in the back set of your sedan, trust me, you’ll begin having back problems and that will interfere with your business as well as your day job. If you have room, keep a small foldable table for those jobs that have more than just a few locks to rekey. Set the table up behind your vehicle and use a flat top step stool as a chair.

It’s vital that you keep your vehicle running in top condition. If your car won’t start you can’t get to the job and that makes you look bad to your customer. If it’s not washed regularly, those that see it will think you don’t care about your own valuables so why should they trust you with theirs by asking you to install locks or security equipment in their house or business. Make sure your lights work, wipers clean and your horn operates properly. If you have the financial ability, it’s a good idea to get some signage on your vehicle. It can be either magnetic signs you remove and apply only when needed or it can be vinyl lettering. Either option should stand out when someone sees you driving down the road. It should contain your business name, the word “Locksmith”, “Security Professional” or something along those lines, as well as your phone number. Those two need to be large enough that someone 40 feet away can read and remember it. If you have a slogan for your business, put in on there too. Whatever you can put on your sign that helps people remember your name or phone number or both will help your phone ring more and increase your sales.

The first vehicle I used was a Dodge Neon. I had vinyl lettering applied to the side rear windows. It had my business name, phone number and “Locksmith”. It was simple but to the point. One thing that vehicle advertising does is help your customers know that you are a real locksmith and not one of those fly-by-night locksmiths. If you arrived in a vehicle that had no signs, no lettering, nothing that showed who you were, that customer may wonder about using you. Those that may have a second vehicle that use it during late night emergencies probably won’t have any signage and that’s understandable and most customers understand that you may be on call and using your personal vehicle for service calls after hours but during the day it’s important. Once I was able to upgrade to a full size van, I had a moving billboard that I took full use of. I had my phone number in large red vinyl lettering applied at an angle so it would stand out on each side. I also had the name of my business, “Professional Locksmithing”, my slogan and what types of service I did below that. Lastly I had my phone number applied in reverse on the hood so that people in front of me could read it with their mirrors. When I arrived in that van to a job, people noticed, as did those I passed along the way. Paying a company for a static billboard in this business is not something most people will want to do since locksmiths are generally an ‘emergency’ need and people tend to forget billboards in emergencies. Having your billboard on a moving vehicle gets the word out to a wider range of the public and in more areas of your service area, especially if you are willing to drive 30 miles away and no other locksmith will. If someone 30 miles away from your normal service area saw your moving billboard, they would definitely remember.

Chapter 6 What Are You Worth Have you thought about how much you are going to charge for your services? The price you charge your customers for you to drive to them, taking all of your tools and products with you should be based on 3 things: 1. Your knowledge of the job at hand and locksmithing in general; 2. The distance and driving time to your customer; and 3. The average rate for the same service by your competition.

Right now I’m not talking about your profit margin on product; I’m only referring to your labor charges and service call fee. While generally it’s impossible for a new business of any type to call up all of their competition and ask them what they charge for anything, you can call one or two and ask. You don’t need to tell them anything about you, just get an estimate. This will help you to average the prices in your area and will keep your competitors from knowing you are starting a new business that may take some of their business away. There are a few locksmithing forums on the internet that may assist you with a pricing structure in your area but unfortunately the best one has been closed down so you’ll have to try a few methods to obtain your data.

The price you decide upon for your service call should include what it costs you for gas, wear and tear on your vehicle, insurance, advertising, telephone, licensing & any other costs associated with running your business not what it cost you to start it. The previously mentioned items are recurring whereas the initial costs in starting a business are generally a one-time thing. In a city of about 150,000 with gas costing about $2.20/gallon I was charging $35 for a service call fee for any job within the city limits which is about 70 square miles. This is an area with a density of about 2000 per square mile, an average median income of $29,000, about a 1:1 ratio of males & females and an average age of 33.5. To get the data for your area, you should visit http://www.city-data.com. This will help you decide how to gauge your pricing structure. I charged $40/hour for labor to install or service anything and $8.50 per lock cylinder to rekey. Depending on the population and overall size of your local area your rates may need to be higher or lower, understanding that the rates I mentioned above were valid from about 2000 to 2006 and are for daytime hours. The rates went up at night, weekends and holidays.

A locksmith that has 20 years of experience will most likely charge more for labor than someone just starting out because the experience that person has enables them to do their job quicker, more efficiently and more professionally than someone new. They are more confident in what they are doing and can convey that confidence to the customer when giving them a price quote.

With the job getting done quicker, the customer pays about the same or slightly less than someone with little or no experience doing the same job. This may not always be the case and you should note that I’m not saying that since you are new you should charge less than the other guy’s do.

Charge what you are worth. If you boldly tell a customer that you charge $60 to do a particular job, saying it with confidence tells them that you aren’t overcharging them, that you know you can do the job in a timely manner and that you are worth it. They will agree to it. Don’t question

your rates, especially in front of a customer. If you charge what you are worth, you will feel good about your rates and you will succeed in growing your business.

Chapter 7 Estimates If you have never done a specific type of installation or service before, you may have a tough time figuring out how to estimate how many hours it will take or what to charge per hour. When I did my first estimate I had to guess at how long it would take me to install 4 stand-alone locks, including the cost of the locks and service call fee to get there or even if I should charge the service call fee on a job like that. This goes back to What Are You Worth?

Should you charge for giving an estimate? That’s a tough question. Generally I didn’t charge for estimates and for those jobs that were quite a distance to drive I’d try to get all of the information I could over the phone to keep from driving to the location. Remember you are in business to make money and most estimates will lead to nothing more than that. You can’t offer free estimates to everyone if you have to drive half an hour to get there and all they want is what it will cost to rekey their front door lock. You can do that over the phone.

When someone calls and asks for an estimate, don’t automatically assume that you have to drive to their location and inspect the job site to make an accurate prediction on how much you’ll need to complete the job in question. Ask them questions that will help you to know as much as possible so you can give them an accurate price over the phone. This will not only save you time but fuel and wear on your vehicle. When I received calls asking for cost to rekey, I got into the habit of telling them a price per cylinder and explaining to them that a cylinder is anywhere you put a key since I had too many instances where customers didn’t want to pay me to rekey the inside part of their double cylinder deadbolt or the second or third lock on one door since they assumed that when I said “cylinder” I meant per door. Keep in mind that when you tell someone one thing, they may not understand completely so you have to educate them.

If you charge per hour to open a house or business, let them know on the phone, don’t tell them one price then get there and try for an hour and say ‘it’s $40 per hour if I keep trying’. Services like that are per job, not per hour. If you can’t get the lock open quickly, it’s your fault for not practicing enough, not theirs. Of course if they live in Fort Knox, that’s another issue. If it comes to destroying a lock to get in, make sure they know that after you’ve tried for a while using other methods.

For jobs that may require you to drive fifty miles just to do an estimate, figure that cost into your estimate by adding an hour to your labor. Doing estimates is part of this industry and if you charge people for estimates they won’t want one from you. This may not be true for people that live quite far from a metropolitan area since they may expect to pay for things like that.

Do what you can to ask the potential customer on the phone everything you can think of that may come up on the job so you don’t have to drive there. If you happen to have a job scheduled in their area, let them know you can drop by after or before that time and date. This way it’s not a total waste of gas, time and wear.

I’m not saying don’t do estimates that require you to go to a location, I’m saying use common sense and don’t waste your time or money. Again you are in business to make money, not spend it doing estimates all day long.

Chapter 8 Finding a Supplier & Stocking Up Are you going to sell products? What products are you familiar with or that you can learn about that you can convince customers to buy? What products should you keep in stock on a regular basis? What tools do you need to install and service those products? Where do you find a reliable place to buy locks, security hardware and tools specifically designed for locksmiths?

Most manufacturers will not sell to locksmiths directly unless they can purchase a minimum dollar amount each time and meet or exceed their yearly requirements. These vary from $1000 to $5000 for the opening order, $500 to $1000 for each order thereafter and from $10,000 to $20,000 per year. If you don’t meet those minimums that manufacturer will not sell to you. In addition, even if you meet the minimums, the discount you get by buying direct may not be worth the expense you will have at the end of a year since the IRS requires you to pay inventory tax. This tax is based on what you paid for what you have in stock on December 31st, or the end of your fiscal year if you use one. Also most distributors purchase from manufacturers and pay a lower rate than most locksmiths can get since they buy in large quantities and manufacturers will price their products on quantity sold at once. You may be able to save a dollar or two per product if you can buy direct but the inventory tax as well as insurance expense may not be worth it. This is why it’s best for most locksmiths, especially those that are just starting out, to buy from a distributor.

Open your phone book and you probably won’t find a locksmith distributor. If you aren’t a member of any locksmith club, association or subscribe to any trade magazines you probably will have a tough time finding a supplier. If your area requires a locksmith license you may start receiving magazines and catalogs from different distributors since they sometimes buy business license names from cities and states for their mailing lists. If you aren’t required to have a locksmith license, you may have a hard time finding a good supplier. I’ve listed some below to get you started but before I list any suppliers you should note that most of them require a locksmith to have an actual ‘locksmith license’ so if you live in an area that doesn’t require them, you may have difficulty in buying from any of them, although most are willing to accept other forms of proof.

I don’t recommend any particular distributor so the order of this list is alphabetical. The list only contains some since the number of distributors in the United States is very extensive.

1. ADI http://www.adilink.com 2. Dugmore & Duncan http://www.dugmore.com 3. E. L. Reinhardt, Co. http://www.elreinhardt.com 4. H. L. Flake, Co. http://www.hlflake.com 5. IDN, Inc. http://www.idn-inc.com 6. J&M Lock http://www.jmlock.com 7. Lockmasters, Inc http://www.lockmasters.com 8. Security Lock Distributors http://www.seclock.com 9. Smallwood Lock Supply http://www.smallwoodlock.com 10. US Lock http://www.uslock.com

You can find more distributors by visiting http://www.locksmithledger.com and clicking on Distributors. Locksmith Ledger is also a good trade magazine that publishes a distributor list once a year and has informative articles on everything from automotive lockouts to replacing hardware with newer models to industry news that could prove valuable to your business.

Most distributors are going to require you to prepay for all of your purchases before they will ship anything to you. They may also require a minimum order amount. Once you have formed a relationship with a distributor (after a year or two, depending on how much you buy) they will likely allow you to purchase items on credit, giving you 30 days to pay them. This allows you to buy products and stock them for when you need them and pay the distributor later, after you’ve done some services and made some money. It’s very important that you pay the distributor on time, in fact pay them a week or two before it’s due. This gives you a strong credit history with that company and will give you an edge for those times when you may need to order a large dollar amount or when you may be behind on paying an invoice. While paying your invoices early may not help your personal or business credit report that’s obtained elsewhere, it will help you to establish relationships with other distributors. Most locksmiths don’t just buy from one source. That’s asking for trouble. You need to be able to buy from multiple places in the event that one doesn’t have what you need or can’t fulfill your order quick enough for an upcoming job or order. In addition not every distributor stocks every manufacturer’s entire product line but if you pull from a few instead of just one, it’s more likely that at least one will have an item you need.

Before you find a place in your spare bedroom to put in shelves and fill them with locks and door hardware, decide what you want to offer to your customers. Businesses in one city may use different types of locks and hardware than those in another. Generally residential locks are basically the same across the country with a few exceptions. If you are just going to be opening vehicles, you only need the tools designed for that. If you plan on picking locks, you’ll need lock picks. If you are doing safe or safe deposit box work, you’ll need tools specifically designed for that.

Business locks & hardware consists of Grade 1 & Grade 2 knobs, levers and deadbolts, mortise locks, exit devices, door closers, mortise cylinders, rim cylinders, key-in-knob (or lever) cylinders, hinges & access control components.

Residential locks are basically just Grade 2 & Grade 3 knobs, levers and deadbolts as well as occasionally rim cylinders. You may encounter some residential locks that use mortise cylinders but that’s not often. Some jobs require storm and screen door hardware which can be specific to the door although there are some replacement locks and latches available that are interchangeable.

If you are going to be performing lock rekeying, it’s a good idea to find a quality used or new, if you can afford it, key duplicating machine. While some of the locksmithing courses show you how to make keys with a file, using that method in the field is tedious and can cause delays which can cost you money. In order to run the machine in the field you’ll need either an available cigarette lighter plug (for DC powered key motors) or an inverter. An inverter changes 12VDC into 110VAC and generally has 2 outlets that you can plug your machine, and other AC powered equipment in to. Without a power source that you can rely on you may have problems completing jobs. As mentioned before, you don’t want to ask your customer for tools to help you accomplish your job, the same goes for a power plug – except when you are installing new products for them. Your customers expect you to be prepared, so make sure you are. Carry at least a 50 foot extension cord with you so you can plug in your drill, moto-tool or other tool that

you may need on any given job but don’t use it to run your key machine unless absolutely necessary.

When you are able to upgrade from your personal vehicle to a service van that’s specifically used for your business I advise you to get a 1000 watt inverter and connect it directly to your vehicle battery, if not to a secondary battery that charges using the vehicle’s alternator. If you spend 2 hours rekeying locks and running your machinery, your main vehicle battery can go dead, leaving you stranded. A secondary battery, with a properly rated automatic relay will allow you to use it until it’s drained if needed while still giving you the ability to leave the job with your vehicle when you finish the job. In the van I used, I installed 4 110VAC outlets on the workbench I used for rekeying. 2 outlets were near the back doors and the other 2 near the side door. When I needed power for removing a padlock or at a location without power available I was able to plug my extension cord into those outlets and run whatever I needed.

Since the inverter was connected to a secondary battery, which also ran the interior lights, I could run it as long as needed and still leave when I was done. The outlets also gave me a place to plug my rechargeable batteries into while I was out on jobs so I always had a fresh battery for my cordless drill. I also made sure I had adequate lighting for when I did service calls at night. This allowed me to clearly see the locks as I keyed them as well as my key machines so I wouldn’t accidentally cut myself when making keys.

Keeping stock on products is difficult in a small vehicle so you need to decide which items you have to carry with you at all times. Depending on the size of your trunk and back seat, as well as if you have children that may ride in the vehicle at times when you aren’t working, you should only keep a minimum amount of locks and tools with you at all times. If you are doing more commercial work than residential, keep at least 4 mortise cylinders, 2 rim cylinders, 2 new lever or knob locks, at least one deadbolt, a narrow stile deadlatch & a narrow stile deadbolt, in addition to key blanks. For mostly residential, you’ll want at least 2 knob locks and 2 deadbolts, in addition to key blanks.

For either type of vehicle you’ll want to have room for your pinning kit, key machine and rekeying tools. Any lock picks you use should be kept either on your person at all times or in a hidden compartment of your vehicle. This keeps them from getting smashed or broken from products slamming against them and it also keeps them nearby.

Most locksmiths don’t carry the other items I listed above around in the service vehicle because those are items that most of the time you’ll know before you go there that you’ll need them. In addition, exit devices, access control components, excess cylinders and locks can be expensive to just sit there collecting dust. Simply put: use common sense when buying products for resale.

If you are going to be servicing automotive locks you should stock replacement cylinders from GM, Ford, Toyota, Hyundai & any other automotive brands you see that may be common in your area, in addition to key blanks for those vehicles. You will also need tools that are specifically used in automotive lock work. Your distributor can assist you in deciding what may be best for your situation.

You’ll need key blanks if you are doing more than doing lockout services. The most common in the area I serviced were SC1, KW1, KW11, AR1, WR3 & Y1. You may be aware that there are thousands of keyways available in the United States for a multitude of locks on residential, commercial and automotive applications. I’m sure you don’t have the room to carry blanks for every possible need so just keep the ones that are used most where you live. Most locks

around the country are common and will be a Kwikset KW1, Kwikset KW11, Schlage SC1, a Weiser WR3 or a Yale Y1. You should be fine with keeping 50 of each in stock to start with and then raising that to 250 when you find out which ones sell faster.

Try to avoid ‘sets’ or ‘kits’ because sometimes they contain items that you will never use or sell.

I mainly am referring to key blank kits since a lot of times they have key blanks that will be hanging on your key board for years and you’ll most likely never sell them, except for maybe brass scrap. Stick to buying key blanks in bags of 5 or 10 and boxes of 50 or 250. You’ll know after a while which keys you use most often and yes, you will have some instances where you won’t have any blank for what you need. The best advice I can give in this type of situation is to let one or two of the other locksmiths in your area know that you have started your own business and you are just picking up business where they can’t. This applies to those locksmiths that don’t service vehicles if you do; those that don’t work after 5pm when you do; those that don’t service any access control systems if you do; or those that don’t do a service or provide a product when you do. If you tell them up front that you aren’t trying to compete with them they will be more willing to help you when you need it, such as when you need a key blank or if you have a lock you can’t fix. Making friends with a locksmith in your service area will be tough, but you will thank yourself later. Your customers will definitely thank you if you can complete the job as promised.

Lastly regarding purchasing, if you can afford it, a key code machine will be a great asset to any locksmith that is doing any rekeying work. If instead you wanted a cheaper alternative, you can find space and depth keys available for common locks and keys, for automotive, commercial and residential locks. Those keys have cuts at the factory specified depths and spacing and allow you to make a key from a blank to a cut key accurately, quickly and is cheaper than most code cutting machines. For those that want to do automotive lock work, a cheaper manual code cutter is available that will cut keys for most of the vehicles on the road today.

Chapter 9 Advertising Word of mouth advertising the best source for increasing your sales but in order to start getting referrals you must first advertise elsewhere. The best and least expensive advertising method is business cards.

Your business is important to you so make your business cards important to your potential customers. The cards need to be standard size so they fit in a wallet, card Rolodex or a binder designed to hold business cards. It costs extra but you can use both sides of the card to get your message across. Raised lettering, colored text and textured card stock will also help you stand out from your competition. Don’t be tempted to fill the card with text or graphics as more information on your advertisement than necessary can cause you to lose business. Before you find a printing company that you want to use for your cards, design your card. You can use a standard sheet of paper, a ruler and a pencil or you can use one of the many computer programs available. First decide what you want on the card. It’s vital to have your business name, phone number and something referring to one or two of your major services. You may want to use the words ‘rekeying’, ‘lockouts’, ‘access control’, ‘security evaluations’, ‘safes’, ‘automotive lockouts’ or ‘locks installed’ depending on what services you plan on providing as part of your new business. In addition you may also want to use ‘Commercial’, ‘Residential” and/or “Automotive” to let the public know which types of lock service you are making available.

One item that I learned was that the general public does not differentiate between ‘lockout’ and ‘Commercial & Residential’ when they want their car opened if automotive lockouts are not a part of your service. I suppose they assume that every locksmith opens cars and if you advertise ‘lockouts’ you open cars because that’s ‘residential’ – I’ve had people actually tell me that when I told them I didn’t open cars.

Make sure that your business card shows your hours of operation, what you do, who you are (your name as well as your business name) and how they can call you. If you have room for more, keep it simple. Don’t crowd the card with items that simply take up space and provide no further information to the potential customer that isn’t explained elsewhere. If you have a slogan for your business, put it on the card and make it stand out, either by a larger font, bold text or a color different from the other parts of the card. Our cards have blue lettering for everything except our slogan which is in red, but all of the font sizes are the same. If you currently lack a slogan, highlight your phone number or business name because it’s important that you give them something to remember you by. People associate names, phrases and numbers with something they can easily remember so if it stands out on the card, your uniform or vehicle they will remember you.

Standard business cards are 3-1/2” wide and 2” high. Draw a rectangle that’s 7” wide by 4” high and use this as a template so you can decide which layout you want to go with. Move the text around so that it fits on the card without causing confusion. If you are using paper, write your text on paper then cut it out to just around the area of the text. You can then use them to move them around like a puzzle to figure out the best layout. Of course you’ll want to make sure the small pieces of paper are sized properly for the text and size of your card template or your layout may not work when you put it all together. A good program to use is Microsoft Word®.

You can download business card templates to help you with your design.

Once you have your design, contact at least two printing companies to find out prices. They may require that you bring your design to them, or email it to them, for them to review to give you an accurate estimate. This may be difficult for you to do but try to take the time since it may save you money in the long run. Sometimes the largest copy and print company may not be the cheapest and sometimes the smaller ones may not be the quickest so it’s good to shop around.

You’ll need at least 500 cards to start with. Once you have them you can continue to the next step.

Make sure you are clean, your clothes are professional and your vehicle is clean, grab your new business cards and head out the door. You are on a quest to advertise your new business to potential customers and while at first you may think you aren’t getting anywhere, as long as you do it right, you will get calls from some of them. It may not happen right away but if you don’t advertise at all, you will never get any calls.

Go to businesses in your immediate area, making sure it’s not a busy time for them (between 2PM and 4PM is best for restaurants; while late morning may be best for other businesses). If you get to the door and see a sign for No Solicitation, make a note of the business name and address for later. Before you step inside, look quickly at their lock. If it appears old, worn out or non-functioning, make a mental note. Also look at the door closer to see if it leaks, if it allows you to easily open the door and if it shuts properly. Once you go into the business, make sure you let all of their customers go ahead of you. If you get to an employee while their customers are waiting, be sure to make it quick. If the business appears to be slow, recommend to them some security changes to them or replacement of any items you noticed on the way in that need it. Offer to give them a discount, such as no service call fee – you are already there - if you can do the work right then, that is if you have the tools and product with you. If you don’t have the right product or tools with you, offer to go get them or to return when you do have them but at a discount. Remember any sale is a good sale regardless of how much you make on it.

Commercial jobs are generally better to get because they tend to be repeat customers due to high turnover and will need a locksmith to change their locks or service their door hardware more often than any residential job. The more business cards you pass out to your local commercial customers the better the chance of getting a call from one of them. If you run out of cards, get more printed as they are one of the most important advertising mediums you can use.

Give them to customers when you arrive and introduce yourself. It shows how professional you are to them and help them remember you. When you complete a job, make sure they know where they put your card so they can call you for any questions or problems. This will make them think about your card so they will put it in a place they will remember, such as their refrigerator so when a neighbor or fellow business person needs a locksmith, they will know who to call without opening the phone book. If you can, get some business card magnets.

They are available at most office supply stores and have a sticky side. Apply your business card to it and give them to your regular customers so they have an easy way to remember you and to be able to find your number quickly.

The next method of advertising I recommend is applying either vinyl or a large magnetic sign on your vehicle because a moving billboard is better than none at all.

After the first two advertising methods have been completed, it’s time to look at what you wear.

Every time you go to a gas station, grocery store, mega-mall, Movie Theater or anywhere for any reason without something advertising you and your business is a loss in revenue for you.

Your clothes can be used to advertise your business and what you do with little cost. Buy some quality 100% cotton t-shirts in a single color and have them embroidered with your business name & phone number, as well as your name. If not embroidered, you can find some makeyour-own iron-on labels that you can make on your computer. In climates where jackets are used often, find a nice single color jacket and have your business put on the back along with your phone number and your name and business on the front. Anyone behind you will see it and anyone you meet will see your name associated with your business. Along with your business and personal name on a jacket, you can get sew-on patches that say “Locksmith” or something else that may show those around you what you do. Any form of advertising that has just the initial cost but keeps on bringing you business is well worth the minor cost involved.

Yellow page advertising.

As with any business, advertising in your local phone directory is a good way to get new business. Since most people in any area don’t know the name or number of every business they will want to contact they look in the Yellow Pages. With the advent of the Internet, more and more people perform business searches online instead of opening their phone books so you have to ask yourself “Which one do I use or should I use both?”

Advertising can be expensive so you want to start off simple. As with business cards, keep it simple. If you are on a tight budget, the first ad you place should be the least expensive and with most directories, the cheapest is a single line, plain font listing that shows your business name and phone number under the heading you choose, in this case, Locks & Locksmiths (or similar depending on what your phone directory company uses). Generally if you have a business telephone number provided by a local service company that also supplies phone books, they will list your name and number for free (simple font, listing only). Other phone book companies will probably charge you for what is free in the first one so use caution when advertising in more than one directory in a single geographic location.

The first thing you need to do is find out who prints the main directory in your area. Usually this is the phone company but that’s not always the case. Contact them (their advertising numbers are generally listed in the front of the book) and inquire about costs. They will try to talk you into a large full page ad or one that’s just over your budget. If you don’t think you can afford it, don’t agree to it. Yellow Page advertising is a year commitment; there is no early termination possible so if you agree to an advertisement, you must stay with it for an entire year (unless your local directory prints more than once a year). Since this is a long commitment, make sure your ad is simple, to the point and contains the vital information people need to contact you for services. The more information you put into an ad, the more they will get confused or simply bypass your ad for the next, not-so-annoying one. Too much information in an ad is like ALL CAPS IN AN EMAIL – a good reason to ignore it. Just like your business cards, your ad needs to include your business name, phone number & what services you can do. If you can afford a large enough ad, include other things like your business hours, address (unless you work from home), association affiliations (ALOA, etc.) & your slogan. Again keep the ad simple. Don’t overcrowd it or you will lose business you never knew you could have had.

When I started out, I missed the printing for the yellow page directory in my area for that year.

The next year I paid $25/month for a bold listing (name & number only). I knew I was getting calls from that listing so the following year I upgraded to about $60/month. The larger ad had name, number, services & our slogan. The number of calls I received increased by at least ten

fold. Every year the directory agency kept trying to get me to increase to a ¼ page ad which would be quite a bit of money, but I refused. They also raised the cost of the same ad the following year to the point it almost made more sense to increase the ad size since they could offer me a discount on the larger ad because I would be upgrading. One year I did but didn’t see enough return so I downgraded the year after. The following year I upgraded again because of discounts and one year they talked me into a plan which would get me not only the ad but they would send a flyer to all new phone customers in my area for the next year. I had to print the flyers and mail them to their facility. I think I printed 500. I never saw any business from those. I suppose you could say that was over-advertising.

People generally don’t think they’ll need locksmiths so if they see a flyer it’s probably going into the trash. When they do need us, they open the yellow pages. The business with the largest ad does not always win. The one that gets the most business is the one that shows a simple ad that grabs their attention – that’s where slogans help greatly. As with your business cards, emphasize your slogan. If you don’t have one, get one. Input from friends, family or your customers can help you create one. You need something that identifies your business and sets it apart from everyone else. The content of your ad can contain the same things as your competition such as “Commercial – Residential – Automotive” but if you don’t stand out, your business may not get as many calls as the next guy. Of course the next guy may have a 10 person locksmith crew so he can handle not only paying $1000/month for a yellow page ad but also the calls associated with that ad. I’m not saying that the biggest ad is best; I’m saying the simplest one is.

Use the following formulas to calculate your estimated return and expense from advertising: (Cost of Advertisement / Revenue from Advertisement) = Return (Revenue from Advertisement / Cost of Advertisement) = Expense If you pay $25 a month for a yellow page ad and you get 1 call for the entire month from that one advertisement in which you charge the customer $25, you have a 100% return on your investment. Fortunately for you, a $25 a month ad will bring you more than 1 call a month because you have other expenses and you’re trying to earn a living. Let’s say that you advertise in one directory for $25 a month. From that ad alone you get 10 calls in a single month. Of those 10 calls, 4 were people that decided you couldn’t help them for what they wanted to pay, 1 needed service on something you couldn’t do, another 1 was price shopping but 4 asked you for your services. Of those 4, one was an automotive lockout that you charged $30.00 for, two were house lockouts at $45 each and the last one was a complete rekey of a business that had 6 locks and needed 10 keys. At the last job you charged them $8.00 per lock to rekey, $2.00 per key and $45 for the service call fee for a total on that bill of $113.00 plus any taxes. This brings your total revenue from that one ad to $233.00. That one ad was an 11% expense with a return of 9.32 times your investment.

Since you can never really know how many calls you will get from one ad it’s hard to estimate what return you will get, so you can’t know what your limit is on how much you should pay for the ad. This is why I advise you to start small, unless you have a large savings that you are willing to risk.

Be sure to ask most, if not all, of your customers where they got your information from so you can know where your advertising is working and where it’s not. If they used the phone book and there’s more than one in your area, make sure to ask them which one. Some may not know so you’ll just have to guess. Keep track of this for a while so you can do the calculations.

Once a few months have passed since you started your ad, and you know that the directory has been delivered, calculate your return using the above formula to see where you stand. If you have a large return (10% or more) you may want to consider increasing your advertising budget in the next directory. If it’s lower, find the problem and fix it.

In areas that have more than one phone directory, don’t listen to the sales people when they tell you that they have a bigger coverage area or are in more locations than their competition – they are trying to get you to spend more so they will make a larger commission. While it may be true that one book is used by more people, you can’t judge what you will commit to by what the salesperson tells you. I do recommend that you consider advertising in every phone directory that is printed for your area because the more chances that people see your business the more likely it is that they will call you. If you don’t advertise in one book, that may be the one that those people that would normally call you couldn’t. Don’t spend your entire advertising budget on one directory and don’t spend the same amount on each, again, unless you have the money to risk. My experience has told me to have a bigger ad with a bit more information in one book and smaller ads with less in the others.

The following year, switch that strategy from one to another. Some directories can get you a ¼ page ad for the same price a small, in column ad would cost you in another one.

If you can find such a deal, I recommend considering it.

When you have ads in the phone directories, on your vehicle, clothes and business cards don’t expect an immediate response with a flood of calls coming in. While advertising using those methods is the best way to get calls, making sure you follow the customer service policy you should have planned out when performing services or installing products for your customers.

Word of mouth advertising is probably the best form of advertising. If you don’t perform your services well or provide your customers with the best service and product, your word of mouth advertising will be nothing but negative and that will interfere with the other advertisements you have set up. Nothing travels faster than negative advertising. Make sure you mention to your customers after a job is finished to tell their friends about you. Customers will use their own judgment as to what to tell others and whether or not to use your services again. If they are willing to call you again if needed, they will most likely tell others. Don’t forget to leave them a business card.

Chapter 10 Rekeying Part 1 Identification and Removal In order to change the key that operates a lock you must rekey the lock or set of locks. This is something that often occurs in businesses several times per year or month, depending on the turnover of employees at that business. Residential locks generally get changed less often and most of the time it’s due to a roommate moving out, a tenant being thrown out or a domestic situation of some kind. It’s important for locksmiths to know how to rekey many different types of locks, as well as how to access the cylinders for those locks so when a customer contacts you to change their locks you’ll know how without any trouble. Since you are already reading this book, you should be familiar with how to rekey a lock as well as how to make new keys, but if you are simply considering becoming a locksmith and have no formal training, this term and what it means to you may be new so I’ll detail the rekeying process for a few common locks.

You’ll need to ask your customer to show you each lock they want rekeyed before you can get started. Generally they will take you to each door but sometimes you’ll just have to find them on your own. If you are uncertain if a customer wants a particular lock rekeyed, ask them before you remove it from the door. You’ll also want to make sure they want each lock keyed alike or if they want them keyed a certain way so be sure to ask. Never assume.

Some customers may want their deadbolt keyed different from their knob or lever. I don’t recommend this and always try to convince the customer that doing that is not a good idea for safety reasons. If the locks are keyed differently and they walked out of their home or business with only the key to their deadbolt but are in the habit of manually locking their knob or lever, they will get locked out and have to call you to get them in. While this can be good for your business, it doesn’t say much about your business practices if you didn’t at least try to change your customer’s mind on the idea of separate keys.

Most locks are marked with the manufacturer’s name on the plate that surrounds the latch or bolt on the edge of the door. Some deadbolts also are marked on the face just above the key hole. While this may tell you who made it, it doesn’t tell you want model they are. Knowing the model of the lock prior to rekeying is important since each brand and model rekey differently, although some models within the same brand can be rekeyed using the same method.

First let’s start with the basic Kwikset door knob lock. Kwikset locks are found on around 70% of the homes you will encounter as a locksmith. There are many styles available from Kwikset but the basics of rekeying these, as well as most locks, is the same. The part that’s different is how to access the part of the lock you need – the cylinder. Kwikset now uses an installation method they call “Kwik-Install”. I’ll first cover the old method.

Kwikset Knobs – Old Style Required Tools: Kwikset Removal Tool, Philips screwdriver Note: There are multiple removal tools available. The following instructions refer to the flat tool that is found with most Kwikset rekeying kits. If you are using a different type, be sure you follow the instructions that were included with it .

1. Mark the cylinder for proper reinstallation. Before you can do this make sure that the lock cylinder is facing the proper direction while on the door. When a key is inserted into this lock, the cuts on the key should face up. If this is not correct, remember that in a minute.

2. First remove the screws from the inside rose, pull the inside knob off of the door then turn the outside knob slightly in either direction to release the spindle as you pull the knob away from the door. You do not have to remove the latch mechanism on this or most locks if you are just rekeying the lock cylinder.

3. Once the knob is off of the door, remember if the cylinder was installed correctly or not then mark the top of the cylinder direction by scratching a small line on the UNFINISHED part of the lock behind the rose. That should be the direction that is ‘up’ when the lock is reinstalled.

4. Look at the back of the outside knob. You will see a spindle. The spindle is the part of the lock that operates the locking portion of the lock when the proper key is inserted into the cylinder and turned. On this lock you’ll notice that if you insert the small end of your Kwikset removal tool into the back of the spindle and turn it there are two metal pieces that extend or retract near the back of the rose. Once extended, these metal plates prevent the knob from being turned by using the screw mounting stem on one side as a barrier. The half-moon part of the lock that the stem is against is what turns the mechanism, if the knob can’t turn, neither can the latch mechanism, therefore the door remains locked. You will also notice two thin springs that rest against metal stops.

There is one spring at the twelve o’clock and one at the six o’clock position of the back of the knob, connected to the outside knob. There is only one spring in these locks below the spring housing but there are two pieces that extend from it to allow the knob to be set back to its original position once it has been released by the user. If there was only one piece of this spring, the knob would only return to the proper position if turned one direction. You should inspect the spring and the stops to make sure they haven’t worn down or been broken. If they show signs of wear but still allow the lock to properly function, inform your customer of the wear and tell them to expect issues later if the lock isn’t replaced. You may recommend to them replacement but they won’t always allow it.

Make sure to show them the wear, not just tell them.

5. Once you have inspected the back of the outside knob, you’ll need to remove the spindle to access the cylinder. Insert your Kwikset removal tool (small end) into the spindle and turn so the tab that’s at the bottom of the spindle is lined up with the mounting screw stem. The locking mechanism of the knob should protrude slightly.

Now take the same small end of the tool and insert it into the other side of the spring housing between the other screw mounting stem and the spindle. There is a flat metal piece there that you need to press in on. The easiest way is to use the screw stem as leverage. Once that piece is depressed, the spindle can be removed. You have to keep holding the flat piece as you remove the spindle or it won’t budge.

6. Now that the spindle is out, reverse the tool and insert the ‘forked’ end into the hole left by the spindle with the tool at 90 degrees to the half round spindle that remains.

You’ll notice it has to go in at an angle to push the retainer back. Once in, push on it, keeping it as close to perpendicular to the remaining spindle as possible. Sometimes you need to use a small hammer on the back of the tool to release the cylinder spring clips – I’ll either turn the lock upside-down and bang it on a workbench or tap lightly with

the back of a screwdriver. Make sure as you do this that the front of the knob is not pushed against a table or other hard surface or you may damage the cylinder spring clips. If you have done it correctly, the cylinder will pop out of the knob.

7. Reinstall the spindle.

8. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug.

9. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset Knobs – New Style Required Tools: Kwikset Removal Tool, Philips screwdriver, small flat head screwdriver 1. Mark the cylinder for proper reinstallation. Before you can do this make sure that the lock cylinder is facing the proper direction while on the door. When a key is inserted into this lock, the cuts on the key should face up. If this is not correct, remember that in a minute.

2. Pry up the edge of the inside rose and you’ll see a slot with a metal piece inside it that looks somewhat like an arrow.

3. Move that metal piece in the direction of the opening in the slot. This may be tight so you’ll need a small flat head screwdriver for force it over. Be careful not to bend it as you push. Once it’s over far enough, the inside knob will easily pull off of the door. It may even pop off itself.

4. Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the two screws from the mounting plate then pull the plate off.

5. The outside knob will now come off of the door.

6. Remove the shield on the back of the outside knob if it slides off (the large metal part that is the width of the lock).

7. Insert your Kwikset removal tool (small end) into the spindle and turn so the tab that’s at the bottom of the spindle is lined up with the mounting screw stem. The locking mechanism of the knob should protrude slightly. Now take the same small end of the tool and insert it into the other side of the spring housing between the other screw mounting stem and the spindle. There is a flat metal piece there that you need to press in on. The easiest way is to use the screw stem as leverage.

Once that piece is depressed, the spindle can be removed. You have to keep holding the flat piece as you remove the spindle or it won’t budge.

8. Insert your existing key into the cylinder, turn it ½ a turn clockwise and pull. The cylinder will come out.

9. Reinstall the spindle.

10. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug.

11. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset UltraMax - Old Style Required Tools: Philips screwdriver, Kwikset Removal Tool, existing key 1. Mark the cylinder for proper reinstallation. Before you can do this make sure that the lock cylinder is facing the proper direction while on the door. When a key is inserted into this lock, the cuts on the key should face up. If this is not correct, remember that in a minute.

2. First remove the screws from the inside rose, pull the inside knob off of the door then turn the outside knob slightly in either direction to release the spindle as you pull the knob away from the door. You do not have to remove the latch mechanism on this or most locks if you are just rekeying the lock cylinder.

3. Once the knob is off of the door, remember if the cylinder was installed correctly or not then mark the top of the cylinder direction by scratching a small line on the UNFINISHED part of the lock behind the rose. That should be the direction that is ‘up’ when the lock is reinstalled.

4. Look at the back of the outside knob. You will see a spindle. The spindle is the part of the lock that operates the locking portion of the lock when the proper key is inserted into the cylinder and turned. On this lock you’ll notice that if you insert the small end of your Kwikset removal tool into the back of the spindle and turn it there are two metal pieces that extend or retract near the back of the rose. Once extended, these metal plates prevent the knob from being turned by using the screw mounting stem on one side as a barrier. The half-moon part of the lock that the stem is against is what turns the mechanism, if the knob can’t turn, neither can the latch mechanism, therefore the door remains locked. You will also notice two thin springs that rest against metal stops.

There is one spring at the twelve o’clock and one at the six o’clock position of the back of the knob, connected to the outside knob. There is only one spring in these locks below the spring housing but there are two pieces that extend from it to allow the knob to be set back to its original position once it has been released by the user. If there was only one piece of this spring, the knob would only return to the proper position if turned one direction. You should inspect the spring and the stops to make sure they haven’t worn down or been broken. If they show signs of wear but still allow the lock to properly function, inform your customer of the wear and tell them to expect issues later if the lock isn’t replaced. You may recommend to them replacement but they won’t always allow it.

Make sure to show them the wear, not just tell them.

5. Once you have inspected the back of the outside knob, you’ll need to remove the spindle to access the cylinder. Insert your Kwikset removal tool (small end) into the spindle and turn so the tab that’s at the bottom of the spindle is lined up with the

mounting screw stem. The locking mechanism of the knob should protrude slightly.

Now take the same small end of the tool and insert it into the other side of the spring housing between the other screw mounting stem and the spindle. There is a flat metal piece there that you need to press in on. The easiest way is to use the screw stem as leverage. Once that piece is depressed, the spindle can be removed. You have to keep holding the flat piece as you remove the spindle or it won’t budge.

6. Make sure to mark the lock for proper reinstallation. Now insert a working key and turn 180 degrees (upside-down) as you pull back on the key. The cylinder will slide out.

7. Reinstall the spindle.

8. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug.

9. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset Levers Required Tools: Existing key, small flat head screwdriver or probe This applies to Kwikset Maximum Security Series levers and may also work on other models.

Refer to the Kwikset website FAQ for other styles that may be introduced after this book was published.

1. Insert a working key into the keyway and turn it to unlock it, or turn the inside thumbpiece to unlock the lever.

2. Depress the small retainer that is located on the inside part of the lever that goes toward the rose. Pull on the lever as you push that in.

3. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug.

4. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset Titan & those that use a control key Required Tools: Properly cut control key Some Kwikset locks have a control key with them. This is generally a key with a bow the same width as the blade and is easily identified by a square notch cut into the bottom of the blade.

The primary cuts on a control key for this type of lock are exactly the same as a standard working key but the notch in the bottom allows the cylinder to be removed without much effort.

1. Insert the control key and turn 90 degrees counterclockwise and pull on the key.

2. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug.

3. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset Single & Double Cylinder Deadbolts - Standard Required Tools: Philips screwdriver, Kwikset Removal Tool 1. Remove the mounting screws from the inside thumbturn or cylinder. Make sure to hold onto the outside cylinder to keep it from falling.

2. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug. Repeat for the inside cylinder, if so equipped.

2. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset Single Cylinder Deadbolts – UltraMax Series and similar Required Tools: Philips screwdriver, Kwikset Removal Tool 1. On the newer models of Kwikset single cylinder deadbolts the thumbturn trim has no visible screws. Turn the thumbturn to the unlocked position. Under the longer part of the thumbturn you’ll see a small screw or plastic pin. Remove that piece and the thumbturn trim will pull off. Do not lose that screw or pin.

2. Remove the mounting screws while holding onto the outside cylinder housing.

3. Remove the outside housing.

4. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug.

5. The lock is now ready for pinning. ((Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset Double Cylinder Deadbolts – UltraMax Series and similar Required Tools: Philips screwdriver, Kwikset Removal Tool 1. There should be two small screws holding the interior plate on. Remove those with your Philips screwdriver. Remove the plate. If there are no visible screws on the inside cylinder, pry the interior plate off to find the mounting screws.

2. Remove the mounting screws while holding onto the outside cylinder housing.

3. Remove the outside housing.

4. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Using the forked end of the tool place it flat on the back of the cylinder below the black spring clip that holds the plug into the shell and push the clip off, being careful not to lose it. You may need to use the small end of the tool to completely get the clip off the plug.

5. Repeat step 4 for the other cylinder.

6. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Kwikset SmartKey Locks In 2007 Kwikset introduced the “SmartKey” concept. The locks that have this technology are designed so that consumers can rekey the locks without the need for a locksmith. Sometimes the consumer fails to follow the directions given by Kwikset which causes total key failure. If this happens and you are called for service I advise that you contact Kwikset technical support and get the most updated information on how to service these locks.

The steps needed to change the key on one of these locks are long and since these locks are designed to circumvent the need of a locksmith, I am not including them in this book.

Schlage F Series Knobs Required Tools: Philips screwdriver, probe tool, small flat head screwdriver It’s hard to know what model most locks are but you can easily tell what model a Schlage F Series knob is once you remove the knob from the door. Be careful with these cylinders as sometimes if removed incorrectly the spring cap will pop off.

1. As with most other commercial knobs, insert a working key into the lock and turn 45 degrees in either direction. Hold the key there as you depress the retainer which can be found on the narrow part that goes back toward the rose. Once the retainer is pressed in far enough, you can pull on the knob and it will come off. This takes practice and some locks are more difficult than others.

2. Carefully remove the key while holding onto the back of the cylinder through the opening in the back of the knob.

3. Make sure the cylinder is facing up then allow the back end of the cylinder to drop slightly so that the face of the cylinder plug has dropped down just a bit.

4. Push the cylinder out by pressing on the face of the plug as you guide it out with your other hand.

5. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Pry off the spring clip that is on the back of the plug with your small flat head screwdriver and set it aside.

6. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Schlage Levers & Knobs Required Tools: Existing key, probe tool, small flat head screwdriver The Schlage F series is the only one they currently manufacture that requires a special removal process. Most, if not all, other models are simple.

1. Insert a working key into the cylinder and turn 45 degrees to the right.

2. Insert a probe tool into one of the holes in the back of the knob or lever part that goes toward the rose and press as you pull on the knob or lever.

3. Remove the cylinder from the back of the knob or lever.

4. Remove the key if it’s inserted.

5. The most common Schlage cylinder uses a knurled nut with a small pin that keeps it from turning out. There is also a tailpiece and sometimes a washer. Mark the direction of the tailpiece before you proceed so you can reinstall it the correct way.

Depress the pin and turn the nut counterclockwise until it’s off. Remove the tailpiece, washer and pin and set them aside. Turn the cylinder upside-down and dump the small spring that is in the hole where the pin was. If the spring does not come out, use a small probe or paperclip to pull it out. If you fail to remove the spring you may lose it while rekeying the lock. You must have this spring and the pin that goes with it to replace the lock and have it operate properly.

6. If the cylinder you are rekeying doesn’t have the knurled nut, it should have a standard “C” clip. Simply pry it off with your flat head screwdriver, carefully, and set it aside.

7. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Weiser Knobs Required Tools: Philips screwdriver (possibly a flat head screwdriver as well) 1. Remove the lock from the door as you would with a Kwikset (Kwikset Tylo Step 2).

2. Remove the key if it’s inserted. Look into the back of the outside knob assembly and you should see the head of a Phillips screw. Loosen that screw as you hold one hand over the face of the cylinder to prevent it from dropping out.

3. The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Commercial Knobs & Levers Required Tools: Existing key, probe tool Locks that are designed for commercial use are generally manufactured differently than those for homes. This is due to the expected high use of the locks which can wear most locks down quickly. It’s also because commercial locks have to withstand more abuse since most people

that use a commercial lock don’t care how well it works to remain locked, they are merely passing through. Some commercial locks are simple to access the cylinder while the toughest ones are those designed for institutional use.

I have found that locks designed for simple commercial use have knob or lever retainers and those designed for institutional use have tougher methods.

Identify the lock by opening the door and looking at the plate around the latch. Generally the quality locks will proudly show their name (cheaper locks sometimes don’t). If you know the name of the lock it can help you figure out how to remove it. Now look at the side of the knob.

Is there a hole on one or both sides of the narrow part that goes back to the rose? Does the hole or holes appear to have a retainer? If you think there is a retainer, as most commercial locks have, obtain a working key from your customer and turn the cylinder 45 degrees in either direction. Depress the retainer and pull on the knob. It may be difficult depending on the manufacturer and how long the lock as been installed but it should slide off if there’s a retainer.

Some commercial locks have retainers that like to pop off after you remove the lever or knob so be cautious. If you lose the retainer you may have to replace the lock at no cost to your customer.

Once you remove the knob or lever, slide the cylinder out. Look at the back of the plug and you’ll see either a tailpiece or just a spring clip. Cylinders with tailpieces can sometimes have a roll pin that goes through the back of the plug, through the tailpiece then through the other side of the plug. Other types may have a knurled nut like Schlage locks and a tailpiece that is either rigid or will spin. Generally those that spin are used on deadbolts and the rigid ones are used on knobs and levers. If you have one that’s rigid, be sure to mark the back of the cylinder before removing the tailpiece so you know which way to reinstall it. Refer to the Schlage Levers & Knobs section, Step 5 for information on how to remove a knurled nut. For those that use a roll pin through the tailpiece you can generally leave the tailpiece on and use a hollow plug follower to remove the plug after you slip the “C” clip off. If you need to remove the roll pin, use a small nail set and place the cylinder with one side of it facing a gap in your bench vice to allow the pin to protrude after you hammer it out. Before you can reinsert the pin you may need to file down one side so it goes back into the holes. When reinserted it should not extend past the diameter of the plug or it could interfere with the workings of the lock.

Institutional locks, like those made by Sargent & Arrow, are a bit harder to remove. Depending on the model and when the lock was made, one of the following methods should help you to remove, rekey and replace the lock without too much trouble.

Older Sargent 8 & 9 Line Grade 1 Heavy Duty Institutional Knobs: Required Tools: Sargent rose tool (or similar), nail set, hammer, small flat head screwdriver 1. Using a special tool (Your distributor may have one; I had to make one) unscrew the inside rose from the door. The knob will be in the way but this is the only way I could remove this type of lock. Once removed, you will see holes spaced about 1/8” apart on the threads that the rose was on. Turn the inside knob toward you until you see what looks like a paperclip. Depress that piece with a flathead screwdriver then pull on the knob. Now you can slide the outside knob off. Remove the key if it’s inserted.

2. The outside knob is going to have a round piece (shank) sticking out of it that has the retainer on it. Close to the back of the knob is a plastic or rubber ring. Pry that up carefully until it’s off. Now the collar can be removed easily.

3. Look at the face of the lock and make a mark on the back of the knob the direction that would be ‘up’ for later.

4. Using a nail punch or small hard tool, hammer the roll pin into the knob. You’ll see the roll pin after you remove the collar.

5. Unscrew the shank and carefully lift up on it. There is a spring and a cam under it that sometimes likes to fall away. Without those you won’t be able to reassemble the lock so don’t lose them. Set them aside until later.

6. You can now pull the cylinder out and rekey it. Remove the retainer clip on the back of the plug then rekey.

7. To get a follower to work on this lock you’ll need a lock shim. Insert the shim into the back of the shell to fill in the gap left by the follower and the back of the plug. You’ll also need a follower that’s hollow. Now follow the instructions for rekeying in “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”.

Reinstallation 8. To reinstall the cylinder reverse the steps taken to disassemble. Dump the knob first to remove the roll pin and any dust or debris. Insert the cylinder into the knob. Make note of the mark you made in Step 3 and align the cylinder with that. It will turn when the shank is attached but it should line up properly.

9. Install the spring with the small end facing the back of the cylinder then place the cam on top of the spring, carefully. Make sure the longer part of the cam is not facing the pin that comes out sideways from the plug.

10. Carefully align and slide the shank onto the spring and cam until it reaches the threads on the knob then turn clockwise until it stops. Back it off a bit to align the small hole where the roll pin goes then reinstall the roll pin. You’ll have to use a nail punch and hammer again. Press it in until the pin is flush with the back of the knob or it will interfere with the operation of the lock. If you go too far, you’ll have to remove the assembly from the knob and dump the knob again then restart the reassembly process.

Once the pin is in, check the alignment of the cylinder to the knob retainer. They should both face the same direction. If not, you’ll have to start over with the reinstallation process.

11. Reinstall the collar and washer onto the back of the outside knob assembly.

12. Pop the outside cylinder back onto the door with the knob retainer facing up. You shouldn’t need to use a key or very much pressure.

13. Thread the inside rose back onto the door but don’t tighten yet.

14. Push the inside knob back onto the door with the knob retainer facing up.

15. Tighten the inside rose until it won’t go any further. I don’t think there is such a thing as ‘over tightening’ this lock unless it’s on a hollow metal or wood door but if the lock isn’t functioning properly try unscrewing the inside rose a bit.

16. Try the new keys to make sure they work.

Arrow & Other Grade 1 Knobs Required Tools: Philips screwdriver and/or probe tool, existing key Most of these will have a retainer as other commercial locks do. Since Arrow doesn’t like to allow access to their instructional files online, it’s best if you contact Arrow directly for any questions you may have on installing or removing one of their locks. The rekeying of these locks is the same for all others mentioned in this book.

Commercial Deadbolts Required Tools: Philips screwdriver and possibly an Allen Wrench & any key Some deadbolts, both double and single cylinder, that are used on commercial applications are installed a bit differently than residential ones.

1.

The first thing you need to look at is the inside cylinder or thumbturn plate. If there are visible screws, remove them then check for mounting screws for the outside cylinder, or those may have been them. Check for small Allen screws in the thumbturn itself as the plate may be hiding the mounting screws.

2.

If there are no visible screws or you can’t remove the thumbturn, check the edge of the door and look at the plate that surrounds the bolt. Remove the screws for that plate and then the plate. If the plate does not move then proceed to Step 5.

3.

Once the plate is removed from around the bolt, there should be a hole at the 3 and 9 o’clock position next to the bolt. Insert a 5/32” (approximate size) into the hole on the outside cylinder and locate the set screw. It may be hard to find but if you keep the wrench straight and turn it slightly left and right it should fall into the screw easily.

Unscrew the set screw about two turns. Insert a key that fits into the cylinder about half way and turn it counterclockwise. If it doesn’t move, loosen the set screw some more then try again. Sometimes the lock is on the door very tight so you may have to turn the key hard. If the lock has a thumbturn on the inside, remove it first. That will loosen the lock and make removing the outside cylinder easier.

4.

Once you have removed the outside cylinder, repeat for the inside cylinder if equipped. If you are completely removing the lock, there are now two small screws that go through the threaded housing that the outside cylinder was threaded into.

Remove those and pull the bolt mechanism out of the edge of the door then remove the threaded housing. If you are simply rekeying the lock, proceed to Step 6.

5.

The last option for removing commercial deadbolts is to pry the inside plate off of the inside cylinder. Under the plate are the mounting screws. If you tried the above methods first and they didn’t show possible solutions, this will.

6.

The types of cylinders on commercial deadbolts vary. In Steps 3 & 4 the cylinders should be mortise cylinders. In Steps 1 & 5 they are most likely rim cylinders.

Depending on which you have, the next steps will vary.

7.

Mortise cylinders: remove the two screws in the back of the plug and set them aside.

Lift up on the cam and set it aside as well.

8.

Rim cylinders: remove the “E” clip or knurled nut, pin and spring as in Step 5 “Schlage Levers & Knobs”.

9.

The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”)

Adams Rite Style Mortise Locks – Bolts and Latches Required Tools: Philips screwdriver, possibly an Allen Wrench or small flat head screwdriver & existing key.

Adams Rite is the standard brand for commercial storefront style doors. A storefront style door is one that uses a 2” wide stile that encases a full pane of thermal glass. Generally these doors have a bar across the middle to allow anyone to push on it instead of the glass. These doors will have different styles of Adams Rite locks, as well as other brands but all will be accessed the same way. These locks use a mortise cylinder for both inside and outside, although sometimes the inside cylinder is a thumbturn mortise cylinder. If the door uses any type of access control lock, such as a pushbutton lock, it should have a mechanical key override mortise cylinder.

1.

These doors will have either a bolt that swings up when locked, a hook bolt that also swings up when locked, or a latch that retracts when unlocked or when the door is shut. Older doors may have a 1/2” throw deadbolt.

2.

On the edge of the door will be a trim plate (older doors may not have any plate).

Remove the two or three small screws using a Philips screwdriver and set them aside. Latches will have two and the bolts will use three. Some older doors have a plate that goes from the bottom to the top of the door. In the center of these are a set of screws (about 10). Remove those and pry the plate off of the door.

Sometimes someone drills small holes in the plate that line up with the set screws (Step 3) so you don’t have to remove this plate. Be cautious when removing these long plates as they contain metal springs under them for adjustment purposes and you don’t want to lose them or the screws.

3.

You should now see two small flat head or Allen head screws. They will be about 1/8” in diameter and will be level with the mortise cylinders in the door face. Do not remove these screws completely; simply loosen them as you use an existing key that’s halfway in the cylinder on that side of the door to turn the cylinder counterclockwise. Mortise cylinders are threaded so they have to be unscrewed from the lock housing. Repeat for the inside cylinder if equipped. If the inside has a thumbturn and it’s not being replaced, leave it as is.

4.

Remove the two screws from the mortise cylinder(s) and the cam(s), and then set them aside.

5.

The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”)

Commercial Mortise Locks Required Tools: Philips screwdriver, existing key There are several manufacturers of mortise locks but most are generally accessed the same way. It’s best to refer to the manufacturer’s installation instructions which can usually be found on their website or by contacting them directly.

1.

Remove the plate from the edge of the door by removing the two or three trim screws.

2.

In line with the cylinder should be a Philips head screw. Loosen that screw as you turn the cylinder with a key that’s only in about half way.

3.

Remove the two screws on the back of the mortise cylinder as well as the cam and set them aside.

4.

The lock is now ready for pinning. (Refer to “Chapter 11: Rekeying Part 2: Making New Keys”).

Specialty Locks If you encounter other types of locks not mentioned in this book, refer to the manufacturer of the lock, your distributor, another locksmith, or use the above mentioned styles of locks to determine the best course of action on the lock you have issues with. Some of these types of locks that you may encounter will be storm door locks that are generally referred to as “profile cylinders’ and were first used on doors in Europe so their design is a bit different than most locks designed and manufactured in the United States. Other types of locks will be access control locks that have mechanical key override cylinders in them that occasionally need service or rekeying. If you have never dealt with one of those locks, it’s best to refer to the installation instructions for that lock instead of risking damaging the lock and having to replace it at your own expense.

You can find installation instructions to most locks that you may encounter by searching online using your favorite search engine or by going directly to the manufacturer’s website.

Chapter 11 Rekeying Part 2 Making New Keys In order to rekey any lock you must first have at least one new key. When I started my business I had multiple ways of accomplishing this. I had a duplicating machine that worked fairly well, power to run it, key blanks and cut keys. I obtained cut keys from other locksmiths and from previous rekeying jobs. Every time I rekeyed someone locks, I kept their old keys for later use on someone else’s house or business. Since there are thousands of possible bittings for most locks, reusing a customer’s key on someone else’s house or business should pose no security risk. It’s unlikely that any customer will know that someone else once had the same bittings on their key and it’s improbable that a previous customer will know that you use their old key on a new customer’s building. To save time after I purchased a code milling machine I made up about ten keys using random codes then stamped them with the bittings. I kept those keys on a key ring and would use them to rekey locks then copied them to blanks. If you purchase a code machine you can always cut new keys when you need them but having them made in advance can save you a lot of time in the field.

It’s important to note the bittings on the existing key and use new bittings that are completely different than any already used by your customer’s key. This insures that an old key cannot be used or modified to be used on any lock that you are rekeying. Generally a customer only gives you one key when you arrive to use in the rekeying process and they will either throw away or set aside their old keys. Also, their neighbors, family and/or friends may have a copy of their old key. Because of this you have to make sure that any old keys they may have will not work once you have rekeyed their locks.

Make sure that your duplicating machine is properly calibrated before you go to any job. You can check this weekly or monthly depending on use, weather and how you store your machine in your vehicle. If the machine is not secured to the vehicle, it will move around and may bump into other things like tools, locks or the seat. This can cause it to become out of alignment and will keep you from making accurate copies. The best way to check is to keep two key blanks that have the same exact height and use those every time you want to calibrate your machine.

Check the blanks using calipers. Also use your calipers to check the distance between the shoulder stops on the machine and compare that to the distance from the guide and the outside edge of the cutter wheel. When you use the cutter wheel as a guide, make sure your calipers stop at the outside edge of the wheel’s teeth and not between them.

Find out from your customer how many keys they will need before you walk out of their home or business or you’ll have to go back in and that will waste your time.

The bittings on keys are determined by the manufacturer. Kwikset uses cuts 1 through 6.

Schlage uses 0 through 9. A #3 pin for a Kwikset is not the same as a #3 for a Schlage since the depths vary from brand to brand. Most pinning kits will not only have the size (in inches) of the different pins required for each manufacturer but they will have the spaces from shoulder stop to the first cut, then second and so on. If you have to cut your new keys with a micrometer, these measurements are vital. Also make sure you don’t go over the M.A.C.S (Maximum Adjacent Cut Specification). You can’t have a #9 cut next to a #1 on a Schlage since the M.A.C.S. for Schlage is 7 (although I use a 6). Check your pin kit for more information.

Chapter 12 Rekeying Part 3 Pinning Once you have removed the cylinder from the knob, lever or deadbolt and have removed the clip or knurled nut from the back of the plug you can now rekey the cylinder. Refer to the Glossary at the end of this book or the definitions in Chapter 1 that refer to the parts of a lock for reference if you don’t know what I’m referring to.

First you must have a new key (or set of keys) to rekey the lock to. Read Chapter 11 if you don’t.

Rekeying any standard lock will use the same process, regardless of the brand or model, with a few exceptions. Some locks require you to use a shim, as mentioned in Chapter 10 “Older Sargent 8 & 9 Line Grade 1 Heavy Duty Institutional Knobs:” Step 7. Mortise cylinders require the use of a plug follower that has a notch cut into it that will fit around the back of the plug where the cam was installed. Without this notch, the follower will not stay flush against the back of the plug which will cause the top pins to fall out or get stuck. Hollow followers are needed on plugs that have either difficult to remove tailpieces or those that will not come off. The tailpiece can then go into the hollow part of the follower which allows the follower to stay flush with the back of the plug.

The most common misconception in rekeying is to remove the spring cap. Do not remove the spring cap unless it’s a last resort. Sometimes when you key a lock and reinstall the plug, it doesn’t work with the key you have. You may also not be able to pick it open. If you can’t shim the lock open, removing the spring cap is the last option.

Remove the plug Required tools: Existing key, plug follower, pin kit, key gauge, new key(s), tweezers 1.

Insert the existing key into the plug and turn it 45 degrees. Hold the shell so that the pins in the plug will face up when you remove it or the pins will fall out. You may need to know more about them before you can rekey the lock.

2.

Place the follower against the back of the plug until it’s flush and push on the follower to force the plug out. Do not pull on the plug or key or you’ll get a gap between the follower and the plug. You’ll lose your top pins and springs if this happens.

3.

Once the plug is out of the shell, slowly remove the key. If the lock is suspected to be master keyed, you’ll need to know where the master pins are in the lock so you can remove them. Even if you are master keying a lock that was already master keyed, the master pins in the lock will most likely not be the same as what you will need with the new key. Place your forefinger over every chamber except the first one and dump the pin. If more than one pin falls out, you know that the first chamber was master keyed and there shouldn’t be more pins in the shell for chamber one.

Repeat for the rest of the chambers of the plug.

4.

If you aren’t certain that there are not extra pins in the shell you will need to check prior to reinstalling the plug. Locks have cuts on the key based on the location of each chamber. Each chamber, depending on the manufacturer and model, will be a specific height. Since this height can only sustain a certain amount of pins, there can’t be any extra pins or the key will get stuck in the lock, or won’t go in at all. The number of pins isn’t the issue; it’s the total height in thousandths of an inch after you add up all of the pins in the chamber. Example: Let’s say the chamber can hold a maximum of .600”. If your bottom pin is a #9 Schlage (.300) and the chamber has a standard top pin (.237) and spring, the maximum extra space available will be a bit more than a #4 master pin (.060). If you don’t remove the master pin and then add one to the plug when master keying it to a new set of keys, the key will not be able to go into the plug at all or it will get stuck if you can somehow get it in there because there isn’t enough room in the chamber for all of the pins and the spring to rise up past the shear line. Again most rekeying kits will have charts showing you the maximum pin height for each set as well as spacing.

5.

To check the chamber for extra pins you have three options: a. Remove the follower completely and let all of the pins and springs fly out everywhere, or cover one end to prevent scattering; b. Remove the spring cap (remember I said not to so don’t); c. Using tweezers carefully pull the follower back as you press down on the first pin in the first chamber. Lift slightly to allow the pin to rise, and then push the follower back to bind it. If the pin is a master pin, the follower should be binding the top pin and the master will simply fall away. Pull that pin out then press down on the first pin again, sliding the follower back to uncover the second chamber.

Repeat until you get to the third chamber. Now turn the shell around and repeat from the back of the lock until you have checked all chambers.

Pinning 6.

After removing the plug and determining that there aren’t extra pins in the lock that can cause trouble later, insert your new key into the plug. It should slide in easily and if you are using the right keyway, it will. Hold the plug so that you can lift on the bottom of the key blade as it sits in the plug. This is how it will sit in the shell so you need to do this to make sure your pins are correct. I generally hold the plug in my left hand with my finger on the bottom of the key blade and insert the pins using my right hand (I’m right-handed).

7.

Using your new bitting as a guide (you should have it written down somewhere close by), find the first pin in your pin kit, using the chart on the lid of the kit to help you find which size to use for which cut number.

8.

The pin you insert should be flush with the plug creating a shear line once the lock is reassembled. If it’s not flush, remove the pin and try another size. If you use a kit designed for a specific manufacturer and the pin isn’t flush, your key isn’t cut correctly. Check it for size using calipers. If you use a kit that has multiple sizes in increments of .003 or .005, simply replace the incorrect pin with one next to it in size, either more or less depending on what you need to make it flush. A good way to check is to run your tweezers across the top of the pin. If they catch on the plug as you go by, your pin is too short. If they catch on the pin, the pin is too long. Some

pins may sit slightly under the flush point of the plug and that may be okay depending on the brand and model of lock.

9.

Repeat Step 8 for all the chambers of the plug that you are pinning. Some plugs have 5, 6 or 7 chambers. While you may not need all of them to rekey the lock for your customer, you should make sure there aren’t any top pins or springs in the corresponding chambers of the shell.

10.

With the new key inserted (unless you are master keying the lock), slide the plug back into the shell with the chambers facing at least 45 degrees left or right of the shell chambers, pressing against the follower as you go. Do not pull the follower out, use the plug to push. Be sure to keep the plug chambers facing up or the pins will fall out and you’ll have to rekey it again. Do not allow the plug chambers to line up with the shell chambers until the plug is fully inserted.

11.

If you have master keyed the lock, generally you won’t be able to use a new key since it may contain cuts that cause the master pins to rise above the shear line.

Simply insert the plug without the key, making sure to turn it at least 45 degrees to the left or right first. Don’t allow the shell chambers to line up with the plug chambers.

12.

Turn the plug so both sets of chambers line up. You should hear a click.

13.

Remove the key by pressing against the face of the plug with your thumb or forefinger as you pull on the key.

14.

Reinstall the “E” or “C” clip or the knurled nut & tailpiece onto the back of the plug.

15.

Insert the new key and make sure it turns both directions easily. If it feels like it’s sticking at all, remove the retainer then the plug as before and check the pins. Pins that sit higher than needed will show wear on the top and edges (for colored pins).

Replace those pins with slightly shorter ones if using a universal kit or check your key depth if using a branded kit designed for specific manufacturer’s locks only.

16.

Once the key works smoothly, refer to the removal instructions in Chapter 10 for the lock you are servicing and reverse the process to reinstall it. If you are rekeying a deadbolt, refer to the next section first.

Note: Make sure when reinstalling locks that the cylinder is facing up. You can tell this if the key cuts face up when the key is inserted into the plug after installation.

Reinstalling Deadbolts Deadbolts must be installed a specific way to operate properly. Some brands like Kwikset have a tailpiece that makes it easy to reinstall properly: since the tailpiece is shaped like a “D” it can only go into the bolt mechanism one way. Other brands, including the cheap ones, have a flat tailpiece that must be turned before inserting. Those tailpieces are sometimes referred to as ‘lazy cams’ since they spin freely.

In this example the door opens into the building and the hinges are on the right as you look at the door from the outside. Reverse the instructions if the hinges are on the left.

1.

With the door open, face the edge of the door.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

Place the face of the outside cylinder (or the only cylinder on single cylinder locks) in the palm of your right hand with ‘UP’ facing your thumb.

With your left hand, turn the tailpiece counterclockwise (toward the hinges) until it stops.

Line the tailpiece with the hole in the bolt mechanism that’s still in the door and slide it through until the back of the outside housing is against the door face.

Repeat the opposite for an inside cylinder (for double cylinder deadbolts) then skip to Step 7.

Slide the inside thumbturn onto the tailpiece.

Insert the mounting screws and thread them in by hand. You can use a powered screwdriver after starting the threads if you want.

Tighten the screws until they stop. Do not use a lot of force, especially with hollow doors or you will damage the door. If the lock can be moved easily with one hand, tighten them a little then try to move the lock again.

Try your new keys to make sure they work smoothly. If not, loosen one mounting screw and try again. Deadbolts are picky locks when it comes to installation so you have to fiddle with it a bit sometimes to get it to work right.

Make sure when you turn the key toward the edge of the door that the bolt extends and that turning the key toward the hinges retracts the bolt. If not, you’ll have to turn the bolt mechanism over and reinstall the lock. Of course if the lock worked the opposite of what I just said and you turn it over so it’s mounted the right way, the customer may be confused since they are used to the opposite way.

Chapter 13 Impressioning You may encounter situations where the customer has lost the only key they had to a lock.

Some locks you can disassemble, decode and make them a new one with a code machine but there are locks that will cost too much time and effort to do that so making a key by impression is generally the best way to go. These locks include automotive cylinders, padlocks, older style mortise locks as well as others that you may come across in the future. I’ll start with the basics of impressioning a lock.

The goal in impressioning is to take a key blank that fits into the given cylinder and file the cuts down until it smoothly operates the lock. In order to accomplish this you must first find the key blank that is designed for the lock in question. With automotive locks you should have a reference guide available that will let you know which key to use on any vehicle ever made.

Other locks may take some guessing unless you have dealt with that particular type of lock previously. The older style mortise locks use barrel keys and although they are still made, they are hard to find. Finding the right one is the real challenge on those locks. Once you have the right blank you need to know which method works best for the lock you are working with.

There are two methods of impressioning 1.

The use of soot from a candle; or 2.

The use of a knife edge on the key.

Candle The candle method has been around as long as locksmithing and is a simple way to impression barrel keys. Place a candle in a holder and light it. Let it burn a few minutes to start melting the wax before proceeding. Place the key into the flame with the part of the key that you need to file facing the wick and allow the soot from the candle to adhere to it. Don’t let it build up too much as all you’ll need is just a bit. Insert the key into the lock and turn as if you were unlocking it. Carefully turn it back then pull it out. The tumblers in the lock should have removed some soot from the key showing you where to file. Using a triangular shaped file, file down the areas that are marked. You only need to file a small depth, making sure the edges of the valleys are not completely vertical. If doing this on a barrel key, the cuts need to be vertical. If you file too much you’ll have to start over. After you have filed the key, place the key in the candle again to mark it, making sure the newly filed areas get some as well. Repeat until the key turns the lock.

While this method is mostly used for barrel keys it also works on standard cylindrical keys but I’ve found that the knife edge method works best for those.

Knife Edge Let’s do an example using the knife edge method on a standard padlock cylinder that uses an M1 key blank. You will need three tools: a round file, a flat file and a small pair of locking pliers (or impressioning pliers). Place the blank, head first, into the pliers with the tip of the pliers as close to the start of the blade as possible without interfering with the full insertion of the blank.

Take the flat file and make a knife edge on the top of the key blank. You should never file any of the top of the blank when doing this as this may cause a false reading and will require you to start over, especially if the lock uses any zero pins. The knife edge should be centered along the axis of the blade and look like the edge of a knife when you look at it from the end of the

blank. The purpose of this first step is to make the blank thinner while still holding onto the integrity of the blank’s overall height. If the top edge of the key has a thin edge, the marks that the pins or tumblers will make will be easier to see since it will be easier for the pins or tumblers to leave an impression in the key blank.

After you get your knife edge, place the key into the cylinder with the key still in the pliers. Turn the key as you lift and push down on it. If you use too much pressure you will fracture and eventually break the key so try not to force the key to turn. Keys are made of brass as are most lock pins but the shape of the pins keeps the pins from failing during this procedure. Pull the key out and look at the top edge. You should see some marks that may look like small dimples in the key. Those are where you need to file. The first time you file is the most important because if you file too deeply, you’ll miss any zero cuts that may have left an impression due to a slightly larger blade height.

When filing marks on a key like this use the round file but only use the first inch or so as most round files are tapered and you don’t want to make the cuts too wide. Keep the file at the same angle as your flat file was when you first made the knife edge so the same edge will be in the parts you file. The idea is to keep the knife edge so it leaves better impressions so you can see them clearly. Try not to make the cuts too wide but make sure they don’t remain vertical. You should also have a cut key of the same model to compare spaces with. The spaces in a cut key will line up with the impressions on the blank after it’s been inserted into and removed from the lock. Using a cut key will help you to see if what you see on the blank are accurate or if the marks you see are false readings. Once you have established the spaces on your blank with the marks on the knife edge and have filed those marks you can then reinsert the blank into the lock and once again turn as you lift and push down on the blank, again without forcing it with a lot of pressure.

Now that you have cuts in the blank the impressions should be in the center of each one, again looking like a dimple since the pins tend to depress the knife edge. Continue this process, realizing that sometimes there will be no impression in some spaces so skip those. They may show up later or not at all. You can tell when a cut is just about perfect when the dimple becomes larger after insertion. Those generally take just one swipe with the file to make them the right depth, although it could also mean it’s just a little too deep so I recommend keeping a set of calipers handy. Measure the depths of your cuts using a factory depth chart as a guide.

When you get the key to turn it may be hard at first so pull the key out and check the valleys for markings and file when necessary. Your cuts should look like an upside-down “U” or possibly almost a “V”. Remember that if the cuts on a key are too vertical, the pins will get stuck in them and you will not be able to remove the key, if it could be inserted in the first place.

Once you have your key turning the lock, it’s advised to decode it using factory specifications and making a new one using a code machine. I generally decode an impressioned key and cut a new one using one number less than I have decoded for each space. You can always remove more but you can’t add more. You can instead copy the key but your u-shaped cuts will transfer to a copy and you don’t want that. Keys need to have flat valleys with smooth transitions between them so they key doesn’t get stuck in the lock.

Knife edge impressioning works well on tumbler locks like automotive cylinders and cabinet locks especially since ignition cylinders are easier to impression than to remove and disassemble, although some models are harder than others. Cabinet and file cabinet locks generally have only a few tumblers and have a bit more play in them than cylindrical locks so impressioning them is generally easier.

Chapter 14 Lock Bumping Lock bumping – n. A technique using a key that has all the spaces filed down to the maximum depth allowed by the manufacturer and the law of physics to open a lock without the properly cut key.

As I’ve mentioned in previous chapters, a lock is composed of a bottom pin, top pin and a spring (some locks also include master pins). At rest, the bottom pin and top pin (or master) of each chamber are forced together by their corresponding spring. The law of physics tells us that with every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. If the bottom pin where tapped up against the top pin, a gap would appear between them. The spring would then force the top pin back down again, closing the gap. That gap is the shear line. Without the top and bottom pins together, even for a split second, the lock plug could be turned.

A good example of this force is in billiards. Take the cue ball and any two of the others and place them on the table. Place one of the two non-cue balls next to each other so they touch.

Place the cue ball away from one but in a straight line with both. Strike the cue ball with just enough force to push it into the first ball. The first ball will stay but the force will cause the second one to move away with the same speed as the cue ball hit it, slowing quickly.

Lock bumping is a form of picking. Lock picking is the method used to open a lock when a properly cut key is not available. Lock bumping accomplishes the same task and is sometimes quicker than picking.

In lock bumping a key that fits into a lock is cut so the deepest cuts allowed by the manufacturer of the lock are in every space. This may be a number 6 for a Kwikset or a number 9 for Schlage or any other brand, just as long as they are the deepest. The space between each cut must be a peak just as if it were a standard key. The shoulder of the key must be filed down to allow the key to go into the lock just a bit further than it normally would. Some keys also require the tip of the key to be filed down so it doesn’t interfere with the insertion of the key.

Once the key is properly cut and filed, insert the key into a lock all the way then pull it out slightly. As you apply gentle turning pressure on the key, lightly tap the head of the key so as to force it into the lock. If the lock doesn’t turn, pull the key out and try again until it does. For tapping the key you can use a small hammer, the handle part of a screwdriver or anything that will allow you to hit the key without hitting your fingers as you hold onto the key.

Some lock manufacturers have introduced bump-proof or bump-resistant locks in the past few years due to the high media attention this method has produced since the early 21st century when a Dutch television show first broadcast the method. Now that the general public is aware of the dangers of lock bumping, more people are seeking bump-proof locks for their homes and businesses. Unfortunately these locks are a bit more expensive than what most people are used to so you won’t find too many of these locks installed.

Practice lock bumping on an old lock so when you get a call for a lockout on a house or business you can reach for your bump key instead of your lock picks and possibly open the lock in seconds with little or no damage to the lock.

Chapter 15 Access Control Systems Locksmithing doesn’t stop with mechanical locks. Locksmiths that want to survive in this field will expand their knowledge as well as what types of products and services they offer. If you only open cars or just rekey locks for your business you are relying on one thing to keep you afloat. You need to consider other areas and one of those is Access Control.

Access Control is a mechanical or electronic way to unlock a door or other locked item. This can be a simple mechanical pushbutton lock on a cabinet to secure narcotics at a hospital or nursing facility or a larger system that incorporates multiple entry doors, electric locks and keypads or card readers. You may notice some of these systems in use already at some of the businesses that you frequent.

Many large companies incorporate access control locks or complete systems to help reduce losses from employee theft or simply to eliminate the need for mechanical keys. Reducing the amount of mechanical keys that are required by a business will keep that business from needing their locks rekeyed every few months due to high employee turnover. If they use cards or key fobs, they can generally delete those from the system with a few simple steps. If they use a keypad code that they give to their employees, when they leave the business, they can simply change the code or delete that employee’s code from the system and not need the typical services of a locksmith.

I say ‘typical’ because even though they have reduced the number of mechanical keys from their system, they will need the services of someone that knows how to repair, replace and service their access control system. This can be an access control technician or a locksmith that has the knowledge and expertise needed to install, service & repair these types of systems.

You can learn more about access control systems by attending one of the many locksmith conventions that are held every year in many cities across the United States. Most manufacturers will hold classes that teach locksmiths and those in the access control industry everything you need to know about their products. Learning directly from manufacturers how their locks work, how to service and install them will help you to know how to sell them to your customers. Another way to learn about access control systems is to visit the different manufacturer’s websites and find the technical information sheets for each product, download them to your computer or print them and read them when you have time to learn.

Access Control systems operate on low voltage and are not required by most localities to be installed by an electrician or permitted or inspected by a building official. Some areas do require that anyone installing these types of systems be certified by the state or local government. This means training, testing, application and fees. Check with your local government before deciding to perform any access control installation or repair. Let your business liability insurance company know if you change or add any type of service they aren’t aware of to your roster. If you start doing Access Control systems and something happens that causes your customer a loss, your insurance may not cover it if they weren’t made aware that you perform that type of service.

There are many types of access control systems so I will list the most common ones that are in use today on many businesses – and homes. Let’s not forget the homeowner that wants a keyless way to enter their home.

Electric Strikes On almost every standard lock, excluding deadbolts, there is a spring-actuated latch. Typically these have a deadlatch to prevent ‘shimming’ of the latch when properly installed. Customers that want an access control system but want it to be mostly hidden will prefer an electric strike, even if it’s only one door. Since most electric strikes have to be mortised into the door frame, the installation will take some time depending on the material of the frame. Electric strikes take the place of the standard strike plate found with most mechanical locks. They can be mounted in wood, metal or concrete but shouldn’t be mounted in an environment that has a high moisture content or exposure to the environment without proper shielding.

I’ve had many people that have courtyards and gates use electric strikes mounted in a wood post and connect the strike to their intercom system. While this works for a while, eventually the strike will fail since the electronics are not sealed or otherwise protected from wind, water, ice, snow or dust. To protect an electric strike in this type of installation, I generally recommend that silicone caulk be placed around the outside of the strike, skipping the area where the keeper is so it doesn’t interfere with the proper operation of the strike. While this will prevent a lot of things from getting into the strike, the inside part of the strike where the latch sits cannot be sealed so it will still eventually fail. Luckily for most people, the cost of a new electric strike every two to three years is worth what it does for them while it functions.

Each application requires a different type of electric strike and mechanical lock. The voltage used also varies depending on what other access control device is being used in the system.

The other important thing to know for your system installation is the mode. There are two: Fail Secure and Fail Safe. Fail Secure electric locks require power to unlock them; Fail Safe locks require power at all times to remain locked. In electric strikes, one running in Fail Safe mode will require a solenoid that can run constantly. If the wrong type is used, the solenoid will certainly fail, and quickly – generally within minutes. Fail Safe models are used on hospitals, nursing homes, daycare facilities and anywhere a fire alarm system is used. Fail Secure is almost every other application.

Electric strike systems are not required to be connected to a fire alarm system unless the system is Fail Safe. If Fail Safe mode is used, you must notify your customer that they must contact their fire alarm company and have the access control system connected to the fire alarm.

You will always want to run the wire behind the frame on single door applications to prevent tampering. If the building has a dropped ceiling you can usually run the wire just above the ceiling tiles then into the wall and down through the frame. Sometimes you can’t because the wall is made of cinder block so you have to find alternatives. The best time to run wire for any access control system is during building construction when the walls are open.

Storefront Style Frames Electric strikes are installed in storefront style door frames for use with Adams Rite latches, in both single and double door applications. When installing an electric strike into a frame that had an Adams Rite style bolt, a strike with a longer plate is required since the hole in the frame is partially where the plate would mount to. These longer plates generally have mounting tabs to make installation easier. The lock would need to

be a latch style or it will not work properly. Typically the outside of the door would still be a mortise cylinder with a mechanical key and the inside would need to have either a push paddle or a lever to allow free egress.

Wood and Metal Frames Installing electric strikes on wood frames requires a longer strike plate to give it more area to provide protection against forcible entry. The plate would be mortised into the wood making it flush with the frame. Metal frames are similar to storefront style but due to the construction of most buildings that have metal door frames, you may need to chisel away at concrete or mortar that will be in the cavity behind the frame. I recommend using a lock on the door that is known as a storeroom function. This type of lock can only be mechanically unlocked with a key from the outside and cannot be permanently unlocked as with normal locks that have a thumbpiece on the inside. Some situations required by customers can allow entry function locks but they need to be aware that anyone can unlock the outside knob or lever by simply turning the thumbpiece. If the customer wants to have the door unlocked during specific times they can use a classroom function lock which requires a key on the outside. Turning the key one direction locks it; the other unlocks it and both keep the lock in that mode until a key is used to reverse it. An entry function lock can be used for this purpose but again anyone can unlock the outside with the thumbpiece.

Deadbolts & Mortise Locks There are only a few electric strike models that can be used if a deadbolt is required.

This is also true of mortise locks that have deadbolts. Since most deadbolts have a one inch extension and most electric strikes can only accommodate a 5/8” maximum depth (some are only 1/2"), electric strikes with deeper cavity depths and a different style of keeper are required.

If a mortise lock with a deadbolt is to be used, an electric strike with a plate that can accommodate the bolt is required. There are a few different types of uses for mortise locks with deadbolts when using an electric strike. The first is if the deadbolt is only used for Nightlatch function. This is when the building is closed for the night, or weekend, and no one is allowed entry through that door until the next work day. If the bolt is thrown to lock it, the electric strike has a part of the plate that is designed to hold the bolt but will not allow it to pass by the keeper if a proper code or keypad entry is received. The electric strike will still release the keeper but since the bolt isn’t allowed to move, the door will not open.

The next type is one where the bolt is used to increase the security of the door and remains extended always. Only specific electric strikes can do this because most electric strikes are designed to release the keeper which allows the latch to pass by.

Once the latch passes, a spring pulls the keeper back and allows it to be locked. When the door is shut, the latch retracts back into the door as it passes the keeper until it gets to the hole in the strike and then extends which relocks it. If a deadbolt is always extended, the keeper has to stay open until the door is shut and the bolt has reached the proper location. Electric strikes that allow this have a part attached to the keeper in the cavity where the bolt goes. When this part is moved by the bolt after the door is closed, the keeper is pulled shut and the solenoid relocks it.

The last type is one where the mortise lock has a deadbolt but the customer doesn’t want it used. Depending on the type of mortise lock and its location in relation to the

strike plate in the frame, a standard electric strike can be used as long as it lines up with the latch of the mortise lock. Since the plate on the electric strike is only sized for the latch, if the bolt was somehow extended, it has nowhere to fully extend into so it couldn’t be locked. Sometimes it’s best to use an electric strike that is designed for mortise locks. You can find plates for those that have a covered area where the bolt would normally go in to.

Magnetic Locks There are a few electromagnetic lock manufacturers that I recommend: Securitron, Locknetics & RCI. Securitron has a lifetime warranty on basically every item they make and if they don’t yet, the other two will most likely follow. There are also a few different styles available which can help you get the right magnet for even the most unusual application. Single and double door magnets are available as are shear aligning and cabinet lock styles.

An electromagnetic lock operates with the force of a magnet, magnified many times with the use of electricity. When power is applied to the coils that surround the magnet, the intensity of the magnet increases, depending on the power applied, the number of coils around the magnet and the size of the magnet. More coils, more power and larger magnet means more holding force.

Holding force is the measurement of how much pounds per square foot it can withstand before failing and allowing the release of the strike. Most magnetic locks can hold 600 pounds of force and the larger ones can hold up to 1800 pounds. One model can hold up to 4000 pounds but engages mechanical holding if the door is forced so it’s not the magnet that can hold that much, it’s the whole assembly.

Magnetic locks require power to remain locked, therefore they are known as Fail Safe – if power fails it unlocks. Therefore it is highly recommended to use a battery backup system on all magnetic lock installations or the security of the building can be compromised. Some applications also require that the magnetic lock be connected to a fire alarm system by a qualified fire alarm technician. You should never connect anything to a fire alarm system without the proper training and certification.

Mantrap A perfect application for magnetic locks is on banks or convenience stores that use an air lock for entry. We call this use of magnetic locks a mantrap. An air lock, in this example, is an area between two sets of doors that anyone must pass through before entering a building. You have probably seen this in use at a bank, restaurant or gas station. Open the outer door only to find a small hall or room where you must open another door to enter. This is used for many reasons depending on the type of business. Restaurants use them to keep out flies and other flying insects. Most other applications use them to help reduce heating and cooling costs. Having two sets of doors allows the area between them to act as a barrier, or insulation, from the outside.

Any building that has an air lock for the main entry can benefit from a mantrap installation.

The use of this system requires certain controllers that must be installed according to the manufacturer’s specifications or it will not work properly. It is also highly recommended that bullet-proof glass be installed in both the doors and other glass panel areas within a mantrap.

When someone opens the outer door of an air lock, the inside door is held shut by the magnetic lock that is mounted to it. Once the outer door is shut, the magnet on it senses

this and allows the inner door to be opened. If either door is open, the other cannot be opened. In the event of a robbery, such as at a bank or convenience store, the clerk or teller flips a switch after the robber exist the inner door. Once the inner door is shut, neither door can be opened until the system is turned off by officials after police arrive.

This keeps the thief in the air lock with no escape and will cut down on the number of violent robberies in the country if used more often. I do recommend that if you are going to install this type of system on any building that you first contact the manufacturer of the magnets and controllers for a complete technical overview. If you install this type or any type of access control system improperly, you may be held liable for any damages. Be prepared. Get the right information first and use it.

Outdoor Installation Magnetic locks can be used outside as long as direct impact from rain, ice or snow is not expected. Because there are no moving parts in an electric magnetic, there is nothing to wear except for the coils which can corrode if moisture is allowed to enter into the case.

Generally the manufacturer will seal the case but I recommend if using an electric magnet outdoors to use a conduit connection and make sure moisture cannot enter into the case. This will prolong the life of the magnet and insure its proper operation.

Outside installation of magnetic locks is typically found on gates, both swinging and sliding. Check with the manufacturer of the lock for their recommendation on which one to use in outdoor applications.

Typical Door Installation Magnetic locks are used on any type of door and frame combination in many types of buildings. There are different ways to mount a magnetic lock. They can be mounted on the frame above the door facing in with a strike plate mounted to what’s called a “Z” bracket. That method is used for inswinging doors. You can also mount them on the frame of out swinging doors with the magnet facing out and the strike mounted to the door. That is the most common installation. Another way for special applications is to mount the magnet on the side of the frame, to the left or right of the door. I don’t recommend this since the strike bracket will extend down far enough that most people can walk into it when opening the door and that can be a liability issue. If the door is over eight feet tall, it shouldn’t be a problem to mount the magnet in this fashion.

Cabinets You can also install magnetic locks on cabinet doors and drawers. There are magnets specifically designed for this purpose and are small enough not to interfere with other drawers or doors.

Sliding Doors Some buildings such as those used in automotive dealership showrooms have sliding doors to allow enough room for vehicles to be driven in to the building. In other applications a sliding door may be found in ICU wards of hospitals, patio doors in homes or even pocket doors. For these types of doors you can use either a standard magnetic lock mounted in the vertical frame and facing the door or you can use a shear-aligning magnetic lock. A shear-aligning lock mounts above the door and is designed to hold the door shut along its axis instead of away from it as most magnets are. While you won’t find many shear-aligning magnetic locks that can hold as much as standard ones, they will still provide enough security for most applications.

Keypads & Card Readers

Some customers insist on proximity card readers while others want keypads. You may encounter customers that want the ability to control the codes or cards from a central computer and have the ability to see who came in, using which door at what time and date. Other customers may just want the keypad or card reader and don’t need or want the ability to audit or program the system from a computer.

You must ask your customer some key questions to help you determine which system is best for them.

1.

How many users will there be?

2.

Do you want just one code for everyone or one code for each person?

3.

Are you looking for a simple, stand-alone mechanical access control lock or one that can accept up to a 7 digit code for increased security?

4.

Do you want the option to audit the system?

5.

Are you going to require multiple credentials such as card and code?

6.

How many doors do you need controlled by this system?

7.

If multiple doors are used, do you want to control it from one computer or individually at each door?

8.

Do you want to use a key code, proximity card or swipe card?

9.

Do any doors have exit devices or are any doors required to have exit devices?

10.

Would you prefer electric strikes or magnetic locks?

11.

What is your budget?

All of these questions are important for you to know what they expect of you and the system.

Each question will tell you many things about what they want and what they need, as well as what devices you can use to accomplish those issues. You should make them aware of issues that will arise if they choose a specific system or feature.

The following isn’t necessarily in order or relating to the above numbered list. It’s just an outline of what to look for when questioning your customer for what they need.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

If they have many users where everyone uses the same code, any time someone leaves the company, they will have to change the code that everyone uses which means remembering the new code. Typically most keypads that have just a few codes possible due to memory restraints cannot be audited.

If each person has their own code, you’ll need a keypad that can handle not only the number of users they tell you, but also extra in case they expand the users later.

These keypads usually have audit capability and can hold hundreds if not thousands of codes giving each user their own code.

Mechanical access control locks can only accept the same number once. If a 5 is in the code, the 5 cannot be used again. Since some of these locks accept the code in any order, even a 10 digit lock can be figured out by someone with enough time.

Electronic keypads can handle 3 to 7 digits and the numbers can be used multiple times if needed. This increases the possible combinations available, thus increasing the security of the system.

Card reader systems that use magnetic swipe cards like those found on your driver’s license or credit card can be beneficial since some can actually accept a driver’s license or credit card. This keeps the business owner from needing to purchase a card for every user, thus saving them money. The drawback to swipe readers is that they must be cleaned often or they will not read cards properly or at all.

Proximity card readers have no moving parts and no parts that can get dirty which will keep it from reading the card data and allowing access to the right user. Some

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

proximity readers can read as far as 8” away, making access much easier on a lot of people. I prefer proximity card readers but you must know that these cards are susceptible to the demagnetizers found at checkouts in most grocery stores, clothing stores or anywhere that uses a tagging system for loss prevention. If a proximity card is put on one of those demagnetizers, it may cause the card to become inactive.

Auditing an Access Control system can be done multiple ways. You can connect it directly to a computer system running the software provided by the manufacturer of the readers or keypads; Another option is one that requires your customer to go to each lock, keypad and/or card reader in the system and using either a Palm, a laptop or another device that the manufacturer of the system suggests to download the audit log.

The use of multiple credentials requires a device with both of those integrated into one. They can accept a key code and either a proximity card or a swipe card.

Controlling multiple doors can be done easily with a central controller connected to the readers and/or keypads and the electric strikes and/or magnetic locks. Some systems can control up to 128 doors in either the same building, multiple buildings on the same property or on multiple buildings on different sites, even those that may be states or countries apart. If your customer wants a multiple door system and you aren’t familiar with the available hardware, consult your distributor or one of the manufacturers that make those types of controllers for assistance.

Keypad codes can be a simple solution for a lot of applications since the user isn’t required to keep track of a card or key fob. They just have to remember their code.

Some keypads can accept enough digits for a phone number to help some users remember and since they can also accept the same number more than once, they can be programmed to a code that the user already knows such as a birth date.

Since some keypads can only accept a few users, a code that everyone can remember is important.

If any doors have an exit device, or are required in the end to have one, you’ll need to know if the customer wants an electric strike or magnetic lock since both will require separate hardware. There are a few electric strikes on the market that will accept the latch for most exit hardware. These strikes are generally surface mounted so minimal installation time is required. Make sure before you recommend an electric strike that you check the compatibility with the existing exit device, or recommend a proper replacement device.

A magnetic lock will require an exit device that has an electric switch to stop the current to the lock which allows the user to open the door. Some codes allow for a PIR (Passive Infrared) device which detects the motion of someone in the path of the device and opens the circuit shutting off the power to the magnet, allowing the user to open the door. If a PIR is used, a secondary Exit button or exit device must be used, depending on local fire and safety codes. If an exit button is used, it should be red with white lettering unless otherwise specified by the fire marshal.

11.

The door and current lock will mostly determine if you should install an electric strike or magnetic lock but sometimes your customers may insist on one over the other because of what they’ve heard from other businesses, friends or read on the Internet. The type of system the customer wants will also help determine the type of locking device. Electric strikes are generally well hidden whereas magnetic locks stick out and can be aesthetically annoying. If your customer has a fire alarm system or plans on using one, either option will work since electric strikes can be installed in either mode and magnetic locks are always Fail Safe. Also electric

12.

strikes are generally used with a mechanical lock that has an inside knob or lever that always will allow free egress and this is required in any commercial installation.

Your customer’s budget will play a huge part in the system you design and recommend for them. Cheaper is never better so don’t change your recommendation to include cheap products or you will regret it later. Find the most inexpensive route to take and make your design around that. Sometimes you can find electric strikes cheaper than magnetic locks but the installation for the electric strike may take longer and therefore raise the labor cost in the overall job. Standalone keypads and card readers that connect directly to the strike or magnet are not only time-savers but money savers as well. These are programmed at the keypad or reader and only require a power source and connection to the electric strike or magnetic lock.

I generally give my customers at least two options when it comes to any job. I first show them the cheapest route which may not give them everything they want or need and then I show them the more expensive one that not only gives them want they need but other features they hadn’t thought about but are more interested in because I brought it to their attention.

Stand-Alone Mechanical & Electrical Locks An electric lock that isn’t connected to a central controller is a stand-lone lock. A mechanical lock is also a stand-alone lock. This also applies to keypads and card readers but for this section I’m only referring to locks.

A mechanical lock, pertaining to access control, is any lock that uses no batteries or outside electrical source. These locks have either 5 or 10 buttons and when pressed activate a mechanical set of wheels or cams that, when the proper code is entered, will allow a user to manually turn a knob or lever to retract the latch or bolt and open the door. Some examples of a stand-alone mechanical lock are the Simplex line manufactured by Kaba Simplex and those with mechanical buttons manufactured by Code Locks. Simplex locks are widely used in military, institutional and commercial applications. They incorporate a three or four digit code that must be pressed in the correct order before access is allowed. The numbers can only be used once and only one code can be stored so every user will use the same code. There is no audit capability in mechanical locks nor is there any possible central control as with electric locks. Changing the code is done by an appointed manger or owner of a business or facility by inserting a special tool into the back of the lock and following the instructions, changing the code. Every code in each lock of this type used in a location must be changed if a code is compromised. Locks such as this can use two or more digits at once as part of the code which can increase security and decrease the chance of someone randomly figuring out the code.

These locks are limited to around 1000 possible code combinations. Only one code is allowed in mechanical locks so if your customer wants multiple codes for many employees they will need an electric lock.

Code Locks mechanical locks use a 10 digit code, again numbers can only be used once.

Some of their locks can accept a code in any sequence so if the code is 1234, a user could enter 4321 and still gain access. While this may cause security issues, the locks have a total of over 8,000 possible codes. Changing the code on their locks is a bit more involved but most end users can accomplish this on their own.

Electric stand-alone locks such as those made by Alarm Lock, Code Locks or Kaba Simplex have a 10 digit keypad and can accept the same number more than once. This means a code

of 123423 is possible. This can be important is a customer wants a code that they already know such as a birth day in November (11) on the 11th day. Of course I don’t recommend that type of code since it can cause problems if they try to enter the 1 too quickly. Most of these locks have total possible combinations of over 10,000 for extra security. Since these are electronic, they require batteries to operate, with the exception of the Kaba Power Lever series. The Power Lever operates by turning the lever to power up the system then entering a code followed by turning the lever again to open the door.

The Alarm Lock line of stand-alone locks gives the user many options when it comes to the number of users, auditing and overall access. A lock can be programmed with one code for everyone or one code for every user if the correct model is selected. They can also audit and set times when certain codes will function. This allows your customer to not allow specific users access on weekends, holidays or after certain hours during the week. Changing the code is done at the keypad with a user who has the master code and only takes a few keystrokes to complete. Adding additional users is as simple. An option on the Alarm Lock series is the ability to program, audit and delete users using a laptop or a PC. A user could instead audit each lock by using an infrared printer that’s available from the manufacturer if all they need is the audit log.

Simon Voss recently introduced an innovative stand-alone lock called a Digital Cylindrical Lock.

This lock concept was first brought to market in Europe where it was incorporated into standard European locks such as profile cylinders. The United States version of this lock is integrated into what looks like a standard commercial lever lock as well as mortise cylinders, mortise locks and they also have retrofit models for both mortise locks and mortise cylinders. The standard lock will replace any standard ANSI door handle, is rated for Grade 1 use and has a battery life of over 150,000 operations. The lock is opened by a RF (radio frequency) emitter that is similar to most key fobs found on automotive applications. They also have a wireless keypad available for those customers that want stand-alone electronic access with multiple users that don’t want to carry around another keyfob but want a lock that looks normal. Since the lock is the same design as other commercial locks, it can be fitted easily with little or no modification to the door.

Each lock supports over 8,000 users and has a 3,000 event audit log. Your customers may like the look of this lock since, unlike its competitors, it has no unsightly large box on the inside or outside that on others would contain the batteries and circuitry. The technology for this lock is so small it fits into the area a mechanical key cylinder would normally be located in. The locks have no mechanical key for use in an override situation but since the lock will notify users that the battery life is slowly fading away, there is no need for such.

One last stand-alone system I’ll mention is made by Videx. They call it CyberLock. In order to sell their products you need to take a free online class with one of their certification instructors.

The class takes about 2-3 hours and covers every possible use of their product. I mentioned before that most manufacturers are hard to purchase from as a locksmith but with Videx they encourage locksmiths to buy from them. In fact, as of this writing, they don’t sell to distributors.

For more information about CyberLock, please visit www.jmlock.com or www.videx.com.

CyberLock uses no wiring and the battery is contained within the key. This system uses standard size locks to replace mechanical cylinders so changing from mechanical to CyberLock is simple. It’s about as easy as rekeying a lock. CyberLock cylinders have no mechanical parts that can be picked or manipulated by any lock pick. Cyberlock cylinders cannot be drilled as normal cylinders can and there is no ‘back door’ as there is with other electric locks. They store thousands of audit logs in both the locks and keys. The keys and locks can be programmed to only allow users on specific days or at specific times, including skipping weekends and holidays.

These locks can be set up to require two keys to open so a manager and owner, for instance, would both need to be present with their keys for a safe or office to be opened. The keys can be programmed either at a central location using the software or through a web server. The keys can be used in place of standard mechanical master keys which allow a user to access multiple doors with one key and still secure the doors against improper access by others. There are many possible ways to use this system and any one of those may be the answer that your customer needs to be sure to look further into it.

Chapter 16 Closed Circuit Television Stay ahead of your competitors by increasing the types of services and product that you offer.

Most locksmiths that have been in business for over 20 years like to stick with what they know and are hesitant to change so they miss out on new technology like access control systems.

This could be that they are so busy with what they already offer that they have no need or time to learn about new products that could help their customers, or they are afraid of technology much like many people were when the home computer first arrived on the market. Then there is the cellular phone which lately has exploded into something unimaginable ten years ago. Cell phones can not only help you keep in contact with your friends, family or work but they can take photos and video as well as tell you when it’s time to take your kid to soccer practice or allow you to connect to the internet.

This is the same for Closed Circuit Television, or CCTV as it’s known. The first CCTV system was installed in Germany in 1942 for observing the launch of V2 rockets. As with a lot of technological advances in the last 50 years that came about because of the ‘space-age’, CCTV equipment and peripherals has become smaller and cheaper. Technology has made advances that allow anyone to install and use a system for many reasons. A couple can get a hidden camera that’s fitted into a child’s stuffed toy so they can record the babysitter or nanny to help protect their children. A city can install cameras at road intersections or major highways to help with traffic control. A convenience store owner has cameras to help prevent theft and allows for simple identification of a suspect if a theft or robbery occurs. Everywhere you go, from the streets you take from home, to the bank drive-through, to the roads you travel on the way to work each day, to the mall you go shopping at have some type of Closed Circuit Television system. As a locksmith it’s one of those areas that you can add to your business model. There are many different pieces to a CCTV system. There are also many uses for one so let’s first cover the uses that may show a potential market for you as a locksmith.

Most of the time you will have commercial customers that are concerned about their employee theft problem, or simply want to record shoplifters, or both. The most common theft at a business is from an employee. They can steal either merchandise through a back door or put items in their personal bags out of view of other employees or customers then walk out the front door after their shift is over. The most common theft though that involves employees is cash.

I’ll give you an example: A customer walks up to a cashier at a convenience store to pay for the items they want to buy. The cashier rings up the items, takes the person’s cash and gives them change but leaves the cash drawer open. The customer leaves the store having paid for the items. The employee then voids the transaction and pockets the cash. Since the drawer was open, there is no record of a ‘no sale’ which is proof the drawer was opened without a transaction. If approached by a manager the employee simply states the customer changed their mind or didn’t have enough money to pay for it so they voided the sale. Another example: A customer approaches a cashier at a department store with items to purchase. They know the cashier and are good friends. The cashier, knowing they may be watched, scans the items then manipulates the register to give their friend a large discount, such as an employee or senior citizen discount.

Here’s an example of an employee stealing merchandise: A worker goes to the employee break room, which is next to the stock room, for their lunch break. They know that they will be alone

for a few minutes so they walk over to an item they want and get it. They then take it to their locker or personal bag, such as a backpack and put it in. They then continue their normal routine and get their bag as they leave for the day after their shift is over. The employer doesn’t suspect any theft so they don’t know they’ve lost merchandise until inventory time when they realize that thousands of dollars in product is missing. In this instance, the employee stole one item every work day, five days a week for a month, the time between inventory counts. They could have taken pants, electronics or anything that the business sells.

In all three cases they stole from their employer. In the last example the employee’s actions show a direct theft whereas the other two show loss of cash. Both types are theft and should be treated as such. Without proof, each employer has no way to know if an employee stole and be able to prosecute them. All cases could have been prevented or at least produced proof after the fact if they had installed a CCTV system. A system can be as small as one camera and a VCR or as large as what is used at most casinos in Las Vegas. Every system will be specifically designed for the need of each customer so you need to know the equipment you have available, what it can do, how to sell it, how to install it and how to service it if needed. To learn these things you can take CCTV classes or you can learn by just doing it. As with access control, visit the manufacturer’s websites and read the technical data on cameras and equipment. Find suppliers that can assist you with determining which items to use and on what type of situations those items should be used. After you have learned the basics of these systems, you can then approach each of your commercial customers and try to sell them on a system.

When you approach a customer, either a repeat or new, about anything new to them, do not cold call them. When they contact you for a regular service such as rekeying, during the job ask questions that will help you to determine if a CCTV system is something that will help your customer of if it’s something that would be a waste of their money. If it’s a waste, drop the thought and go to the next customer. If your customer has a certain type of business or has a history of vandalism or theft, approach them after you are done with the service they called you about. You’ll need to ask them some important questions to help you help them. These are simply an outline of questions that I would ask to specific customers and should not be used with each instance since you should already know the answers to some of these questions if you have done any services for your customers in the past. You should use these questions as a guide only and make up questions that suit your needs as well as your customers’.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Do you have any history of theft with no suspects?

Have you had multiple instances of vandalism with no suspects?

Are you concerned about work-related injuries and claims?

Do you allow employees to handle cash?

Do you sell items that could be easily shoplifted?

Is there potential or history of robbery at your business?

Have you had any, or is there a chance of getting any liability claims against your company due to pot holes in the parking lot, water on the floor or the like?

Are you concerned about your business?

Question #8 is one that every business owner should answer ‘yes’ to. I ask a question like that last after I’ve asked them other questions that tell me that they do need a CCTV system. Since they now realize that a CCTV system will help their business and they are concerned about their business, they will want to know more about what can be done to help them.

After you have convinced them that this is something to consider, find a time when they can walk around their business with you and point out areas they are concerned about with regards to security. Don’t force them to walk around right after asking them a hundred questions, but do so if they have the time right then, or you will lose them as a CCTV customer and possibly as a lock customer. You shouldn’t be pushy when it comes to any customer and a potential sale.

They will change their mind quickly and will not consider it in the future, although if they do, it won’t be with you.

On the walk around, take paper and pen and make notes on anything you think will be vital to the proper selection of cameras and equipment as well as what the customer wants.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

How wide and high the area is.

How far from the camera’s mounting location will the area be?

How much light is always on the area & does it get dark on the area?

Does this one camera location need to cover a wider area that one lens can do?

How high is the camera mounting location compared to the floor or ground?

How far from where the customer would want the recorder and/or monitor is each camera?

How many cameras will there be total at the one location?

Once you have the information on each camera and area they want covered, you’ll need to know the following: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Does the customer want to monitor the location from an offsite area?

If #1 is “Yes”, do they want web access or do they have an existing LAN they can connect the system to?

Does the customer want or does the site support the use of color cameras or do they need to be black and white due to lighting constraints?

If #3 from the above list is “Yes” then does the customer want an automatic pan camera, a manual pan & tilt camera or multiple cameras for that area?

How often does the customer want the cameras to record?

Does the customer have a secure area for the equipment or do they need a lockable box for the recorder?

Do they want to record cash register transactions on the video?

Now that you have gathered your information you need to consult with your supplier or check with manufacturers to find out what equipment as a whole will supply your customer with fulfilling their needs. There are many types of lenses available which can cover wide areas or be zoomed in to view and record the color of a person’s eyes from several hundred feet away.

It all depends on your customer’s needs and the location of each camera. In addition, the recording device used can either help or hinder the customer in the future. If the wrong recorder is used, any recording may not provide enough evidence in the event it’s needed in a theft, robbery or personal injury claim. If the recorder isn’t stored in a secure location, it may be damaged or tampered with, removing any evidence. If your customer can’t use the recording, they may as well not have the system in the first place.

A CCTV system generally includes cameras, camera mounts, lenses, a recorder, a monitor and wiring. A camera can be mounted indoors or outside but if used outdoors, an enclosure is recommended to protect the circuits from moisture. In some climates a heater and/or blower is required in the enclosure or the moisture inside it will freeze causing failure of the camera.

Some installations require the use of a dome housing or a vandal resistant housing. The lenses

used will vary depending on the area covered, the distance from the camera to the area and the lighting. A few years ago a time-lapse VCR & multiplexer was used in most cases for recording but with the advent of digital video recorders (DVRs) those have become almost obsolete.

DVRs can record many cameras at once onto a hard drive and most contain a built-in multiplexer. A multiplexer is a device that each camera connects to. The video is fed into the multiplexer which outputs a signal to a monitor or recorder. The multiplexer has a timer that basically turns on one camera then the next and so on, recording a snippet of each one onto the hard drive of the DVR or allowing a time-lapse recorder to do the same. They also have the ability to record one camera longer, such as when there is motion in the field of view so the recorder can capture more data. Most DVRs can play back video at a quality comparable to cable television. To take full use of this, a quality monitor is needed. Flat screen monitors have come down in price and come in a variety of sizes that will suit 1 camera up to whatever is needed. They take up less room than most CRT monitors and can be mounted on a wall if needed. Another option on DVRs lately is the ability to connect to a network. This allows your customer to open a web browser anywhere in the world, type in the IP assigned to the DVR and be able to view each camera in their system as well as watch recorded video. This type of DVR is very useful for businesses that have multiple locations or when the owner spends time away from the location but still wants to monitor his or her business.

The other type of CCTV system that’s becoming more popular today is those used in homes.

Homeowners realize that they can’t be home all of the time watching their investment, protecting it from thieves and vandals so they want something that can help them do that. A CCTV system for a home is much like it is for a business but as I said before; each system is different and specifically designed for each application. As with businesses, after you convince a residential customer to consider a system, walk around their property asking them their concerns and make notes on possible camera locations and the other items I listed previously. A homeowner may just want to prove that their neighbor is stealing their morning newspaper or speeding up the street or having loud parties until 3 am.

Sometimes you can get a customer to lease a system from you. You would buy the items needed then lease them to your customer until they no longer need them. You would then retrieve the items from their system and inspect them for damage and wear. Then you can lease them to the next customer. This way residential your customers can have a CCTV system that will help them solve a pressing issue but they aren’t spending thousands of dollars just to prove the neighbor stole their newspaper. Leasing a system to a commercial customer can work as well but generally once a commercial customer has a system, they want to keep it.

Although this is good for you, it’s not good for them since over time they will most likely spend more on the lease than on a full purchase. Some businesses prefer leasing since they can write it off on their taxes over a period of time instead as one purchase so consider this option when approaching customers with estimates that may not be in their budget.

Consider adding CCTV to the products and services that you offer as a locksmith. There is much to learn about it before you can properly suggest a whole system for a customer but you can learn as you go. Most suppliers and manufacturers are more than happy to assist you with any questions you have about their products and in the case of equipment such as this, they will want to make sure that you understand how it works, how to properly install it and what products work best for different situations so both you and your supplier can come out ahead.

Chapter 17 The History of Locksmithing In order to understand how to properly start up and operate a locksmithing business, it’s important to know where the industry started, how it has lasted and what was learned in the past that will help you in the future.

Locksmithing is one of the oldest handicrafts known to civilized man. Long before the great Pyramids were built, locksmiths plied their trade in Egypt, Babylon, Assyria and China. In fact, it may be said that the first key to be used by mankind was the branch of the tree, which the cavemen used to move aside the boulder that guarded the entrance to his cave. In the ruins of ancient cities, archaeologists frequently uncover locking devices that protected the wealth of men who lived before the time of written history.

Over forty centuries ago an Egyptian artist painted a fresco on an ancient temple, which showed a lock that was then in use. A similar lock was actually found in the ruins of a once sumptuous palace in a suburb of the biblical city of Nineveh. This lock is said to be the oldest lock in existence.

It is quite reasonable to suppose that the first barring of a door was done by means of a cross beam, either dropped into sockets or sliding in staples fixed on the door; and it is equally reasonable to suppose that if it slid, a vertical pin dropping into a hole through the staple and beam together, kept the beam in place. If the beam was on the outside of the door, the locking pin must be hidden, and reached either through a hole in the beam, or else through a hole in the staple. This is the kind of primitive lock as made by the Egyptians.

They shortened the beam in a long bolt, and made it hollow for part of its length, so as to reach the pin hidden in beam and staple through the beam itself. The key, which was pushed up the hollow bolt, had pegs on it to match the pins, which held the bolt - for the one pin was now multiplied. When the key was well home it was raised, and so its pegs lifted up the pins out of the way, leaving the bolt free. Then the bolt was drawn back by the key. It will be noticed that the shank of the key is the arm and the pegs are the fingers of the hand. The dropping pins are the true tumblers. The Egyptian lock was first described by Eton in his Survey of the Turkish Empire, 1798. Further information about it was given early in the 19th century by Denon, the Frenchman, who said that he had found the locks sculptured in one of the grand old temples of Karnac, which shows that the same kind of lock has served Egypt for 40 centuries. Locks almost identical or with very little difference and still made of wood have been seen recently in Iraq and Zanzibar. In another class of primitive locks, the pins were reached through a hole in the staple and not through the bolt. There is good reason to believe they were once remarkably widespread. They have seen comparatively recently in some parts of Scandinavia, in the Hebrides and Faroe Islands. They have been observed also upon the West Coast of Africa and in the less frequented parts of certain Balkan States. The hole in the staple by which to get at the pins is a horizontal one above the bolt. The pins are square in section, and are notched on their sides for the key to pass and get into position before being lifted. The key is usually flattish, with little side projections, which engage the pins. After they are lifted, it is necessary to pull back the bolt by hand, thus making a marked and essential difference between this and that of Egypt, in which the key itself withdraws the bolt. These locks vary in detail, some having two sets of pins, the key passing between the sets, in others the pins have holes right through them for the key, not merely side notches.

The pattern, however, was widely imitated and even to this day, similar locks are occasionally dug up in places as far remote from ancient Assyria, Scotland, Japan, and even America.

Apparently the skill and techniques of the ancient lock makers survived the fall of great empires and even time itself because the basic mechanical principle of the so-called Egyptian lock is still being used in our modern pin tumbler locking devices. The lock mentioned in the Bible as being used on the House of David is, in effect, the same type that is used today on our ultra modern apartment house doors!

But the Egyptian type lock was created only for men of great wealth. Later models were made of brass and iron. They were ornamented with inlaid pearl, gold and silver. The poor man still relied on the wooden cross bar to keep the home safe against outside attack. It is said the ancient Greeks were the first to do something about a key operated device for the lower classes. In the days of Homer they used to tie their doors shut with intricately knotted ropes.

They were so cleverly tied that only the owner could find the correct method of unknotting them.

Moreover, under the superstition of the times, no one would dare to tamper with the ropes, lest a curse fall upon them and their families.

But the robbers' greed overcame superstition and the Greeks were eventually forced to discard the knotted rope lock in favor of a more substantial locking device. This arrangement consisted of the usual cross bar on the inside, and a large hook-shaped key the size of a farmer's sickle, which could be inserted through a hole in the door to push the bar aside. This lock was a very effective barrier against the burglars of that period. Moreover, the huge key came to be used as an excellent weapon of defense.

The ancient Romans brought locksmithing to new heights of achievement. They combined the Egyptian and Greek features and produced excellent mechanical door locks that were installed on the inside of the door and operated with a key from the outside through a key hole.

Although the Chinese and Near East peoples developed the padlock, the Romans are credited with having popularized it through the world of their day. They made it a practical device, even going so far as to make the key part of a finger ring for convenience in carrying. The fact that the Romans had no pockets in their togas inspired their locksmiths to devise keys that were small and inconspicuous. The trend of twentieth century lock makers was in the same direction.

Every schoolboy learns about the ruins of the ancient city of Pompeii, which was engulfed by the volcano Vesuvius in 64 A.D. When archaeologists were unearthing the buried city they came across a house that was evidently the site of a locksmith shop. They found many types of door locks, padlocks, and highly ornamented keys, some of which were inlaid with silver and gold. Skewers and odd-shaped prongs were also discovered. Undoubtedly, these were the picks that were used by ancient craftsman to unlock his client's doors or padlocks in an emergency.

The origin of the warded lock is obscure. In the dim past some ingenious lock maker discovered that he could place a series of obstructions in the path of a turning key and thus make the lock secure. Only the correct key which had corresponding spaces on it body could bypass the obstructions. Some historians credit the Etruscans in northern Italy with this invention. But evidence has recently come to light to prove that this mechanism was known to the Greeks and Romans too. Regardless of its beginning, this type of lock became the most widely used from later Roman times up to the time when the pin tumbler cylinder lock was invented.

After the Roman Empire had declined, the world entered into the period known as the Middle Ages. Although this was generally a period when science and education suffered severe neglect, locksmithing seemed to flourish. Warded locks were not the only mechanical devices, but also works of great artistic creation. These were the days of the fabulous medieval castles and knights. Robber barons employed locksmiths to create security devices, which were both secure and rich in design. It was a point of pride and prestige to have the handsomest locks guarding the treasures of the castle. At this time, also, the great monasteries developed. In them reposed all forgotten learning, the books and manuscripts of the ancient days. Locksmiths turned their skill toward creating the locks that guarded man's knowledge until the world was ready to absorb it once again.

The traditions and customs of locksmithing as it is known today are derived from the great medieval guilds of locksmiths, which had their formation during the Middle Ages. The Guild was the all-powerful force. It regulated the terms of apprenticeship, the rules and conduct for journeymen, and the techniques of the masters. It regulated everything from the prices, to the number of rivets that could be placed in a lock. It was supreme master over the craft, and the penalty for defiance was expulsion and the loss of the right to earn a living as a locksmith. Of course, in the earlier days the strictness of the Guild Masters helped maintain the integrity of the locksmith's trade. But like all autocratic and dictatorial organizations it became overbearing, jealous of its power, and unwilling to advance. The trade became a father-to-son enterprise and followed the guild pattern right up to the nineteenth century. Consequently, lock design did not progress much beyond the creation of intricate designs to bewilder thieves. False keyholes, false wards and lots of "gingerbread" designs were heaped upon the lock. Chests that cut off fingers, fired pistol shots, or ejected murderous knives were part of the locksmith's stock in trade. Secret panels and hidden locations for the locks foiled the would-be burglar because he couldn't find where to begin his lock-opening attempt. However, the basic structure of locks remained the same as in the days of the Romans.

While the rest of the world awakened to the wonders of science, art and engineering during the next period of history, the Renaissance, locksmiths still amused themselves and their customers with trick locks and fancy designs. Only one notable improvement was added to locks during this period. The lever tumbler was introduced. At first, the lever was used merely to hold the lock bolt in position so that it would not move either backward or forward unless the key lifted the lever out of the way. This basically sound principle was never fully appreciated by Renaissance locksmiths who handled it down to their more skillful heirs of the 19th century.

Up to this point, lock picking was comparatively simple. Once a thief could get past the trick devices he could easily retract the bolt with simple tools. The world sorely needed a lock that could foil the burglar even though he knew its construction thoroughly.

While it is true that combination locks (sometimes called letter or number locks) made their appearance during various stages of the world's history, it must be noted that these locks were usually confined to padlock construction and offered very little security against opening by "feel" and were never popularly accepted as secure locking devices until modern machine methods made them works of precision. In many cases, numbers were used instead of letters-sometimes, only symbols. However, most combination padlocks used letters. When turned to form the correct word, the padlock would open. The advantage of locks without keys was purely that of convenience. Security was sacrificed. As a matter of fact, combination padlocks were often looked upon as items of play rather than serious devices to protect property. It was often

considered great sport to spend an evening at the fireside attempting to guess the correct combination of a new lock.

In 1778 Robert Barron of England invented a lever tumbler lock that offered the first real security against picking. Instead of using a lever merely to support the bolt against movement, he used the lever to actually imprison or block the bolt and thus prevent its movement until the correct key was used. By using several lever tumblers instead of one, he was able to construct a lock that was fundamentally sound. For the first time since the almost forgotten Egyptian lock, the locking action was applied to the right member, the lock bolt itself. Gone forever was the need of tricks and false designs. True lock construction had emerged at last.

Notable inventors followed Barron's lead and locksmithing began a new page in its long history.

Names such as Bramah, Newell, Chubb, Andrews, Pettit, and Parons are recorded in connection with improved design and increasing security. These men were scientists who challenged the world and each other to pick their locks. Public contests were held and the masters pitted their lock picking skills against one another. The intense rivalry led to the greatest improvement in locks in over three thousand years. The most famous of these contests was held at the London Exhibition in 1851 when A. C. Hobbs, an American locksmith, picked open the best locks that the English had produced.

In America, locksmithing was not fettered by old guild traditions and customs. Locksmiths took full advantage of the advanced mechanical knowledge of the day and produced masterpieces of precision and security. The two outstanding names of 19th century American lock history are Yale and Sargent.

Linus Yale, Senior, was a successful bank lock maker. However, his greatest claim to fame is his invention of the pin tumbler cylinder lock in 1844 incorporating the basic principle of the early Egyptian lock. Linus Yale, Junior, the son, following in his father's footsteps, produced bank locks and improved the design of the pin tumbler lock so that it could be made by mass production methods and still provide excellent security. It was he who invented the grooved type of cylinder key that bears his name.

James Sargent is generally associated with the development of time locks. Although the idea of the time lock had been dreamed of in the days of the guilds, Mr. Sargent was the first to make a practical specimen.

As mass production methods were introduced, the locksmithing craft broke into two distinct groups--lock makers, and lock repairmen. The manufacturing end of the business became a highly technical and complex function, leading to the creation of giant manufacturing organizations doing business that runs into millions of dollars. The term "locksmith" now refers to the repairman rather than the manufacturer of locks.

With the advent of the automobile, lock design took a new step forward. Entirely new constructions were demanded. Locks that could withstand excessive vibration were developed.

This phase of lock making began shortly after the First World War. It is continuing up to the present moment with new designs and new ideas being constantly introduced. The locksmith's function has clearly become that of repairing or replacing these locks and of fitting keys to them.

In recent times, several remarkable inventions have increased the scope and efficiency of locksmiths. The first of these, the key-duplicating machine, was invented by Henry Gussman in

1909. This machine ended the drudgery of hand filing and made accurate reproduction of keys within a matter of minutes a practical reality.

The next great advance was the development of the code machine in 1926 by the engineers of the Independent Lock Company. This creation opened up a new field for locksmiths because it enabled them to make keys to locks according to their serial numbers. Automotive locksmithing has since become one of the chief sources of revenue for most American locksmiths.

Automotive locks have changed dramatically in 1985. General Motors incorporated electronic keys which weren’t at all electronic but contained a resistor that was then read by an induction coil that surrounded the lock cylinder. There were 15 possible chips so not only did a thief need to have the proper resistor but they must also have the proper cuts on the key or the lock wouldn’t turn. If the resistance didn’t match what the car’s computer had stored, the key could still turn the lock (if properly cut) but the computer in the car would shut off the connection to the starter and the fuel injection module, thus making the vehicle inoperable for about 10 minutes and then only worked after the proper key was inserted into the ignition lock and turned. While this cut down on the type and quantity of cars stolen, soon the criminals found ways around it.

Soon after car companies introduced transponder-based keys which have a chip that’s programmed to the car. The chip is located in the bow of the key and the keys can be cut using regular key duplicating or code machines. Because each chip is different, a newly copied key must be programmed to the car. This is done several ways, the most common being an external device that’s connected to the vehicle’s computer. This device is expensive so most locksmiths either don’t perform service on vehicles with this system or they use an alternative method.

The most basic method requires two original keys that currently operate the vehicle. One key is inserted into the ignition and turned, then removed and the second key is then inserted and turned. Once the vehicle enters program mode, the new key is inserted and, following a few more steps, the new key is programmed. Unfortunately this method requires two properly programmed keys to program a new one and since most people procrastinate, when they need a new key it’s generally after they’ve lost one or both. If this happens with most vehicles that have this system, the customer must take the vehicle to the dealer for reprogramming since the device required is either too expensive for most locksmiths, or is completely unavailable for locksmiths to obtain.

Most recently locksmiths have begun integrating access control systems as well as a wide variety of door hardware into their services. With the increase in building of small office buildings, strip centers and large malls and the rise of crime, more businesses are turning to access control systems for protecting their investment. Without the knowledge on how to sell and service these devices, a locksmith will be overlooked and the business will be given to one of the many access control companies that specialize in that field. While some of those companies sell and service magnetic locks, electric strikes, alarm systems, CCTV systems and automatic gates, they lack the ability to help their customer with mechanical locks.

If a locksmith took the time to study about access control systems, CCTV & door hardware they could allow themselves to gain the business they need from reliable, repeat customers. Many manufacturers provide classes, either at their factory or at trade shows, specifically to help locksmiths and security professionals understand how their products work & how to sell and properly service them. This training is either free or costs money depending on the venue and the manufacturer. Some manufacturers also provide training to their distributors. This helps the

locksmith since their distributor can assist them with bidding on jobs with products they haven’t dealt with before. They can also provide the locksmith with product data that can help the locksmith understand the product and learn on their own time.

Some manufacturers have started certifying their security dealers and locksmiths to sell and service their products. Without certification, anyone that services a product that requires it will cause the warranty of that item to become void. Most products do not require certification although those like Medeco’s M3 series locks do. A locksmith can’t buy the locks, keys or pins without this certification, which can be obtained directly from the factory in Salem, VA after a short in-house class. High security locks like Medeco, Kaba Global, Schlage Primus and Abloy provide your customer with key control and pick resistance. Some customers may not like the cost of those locks so they may opt for cheaper but still key controlled locks. The best place to find those types of locks is from a distributor. Most distributors have their own line of products as well as some type of key controlled lock series. While they can still be picked just as easy as any other lock, the key blanks are harder if not impossible to find without the original locksmith that sold them knowing about it.

As you learn more about locksmithing you will find that there are many areas of this field that are expanding into other areas. Locksmithing and locksmiths have come a long way since the first locks were used and I’m certain it will continue to expand.

Appendix A

Appendix B

Door Closer Operation

The above diagram shows the main stages in correct door operation, whether under manual or mechanical control or a combination of the two.

1. On the opening swing, the door closers function is to let the door open easily, except at the end of the swing where the backcheck is applied.

2. Backcheck is a feature that cushions the opening swing to prevent the door from slamming open past the limitations of the closer or into a second door or wall. Special closers designed for potentially abusive applications begin the backcheck function much earlier (2A).

3. Through the long closing arc (sweep), a uniform reasonable speed should be maintained. The sweep valve in a door closer is adjusted first.

4. The latching arc allows the door to close quietly and firmly. After the sweep valve is adjusted, the latching speed is adjusted to keep the door from slamming shut or from staying open too long.

Appendix C

Door Closer Selection Chart Door closers are selected based on the door location – inside or outside – as well as width.

Some door closers are also selected based on the height or overall weight of the door. There are also door pivots that are sometimes used in commercial doors instead of hinges. Pivots must also be selected based on the same standards of a door closer.

The reason door closers are based on interior or exterior applications is because of wind. When a door is opened to the outside of a building, the winds passing by the door can cause the door to act like a kite and be pulled from the user’s hand or simply thrown against the wall or door stop which can break the hinges on the door and possibly blow out the valves on the closer.

Also a door that opens out from a building can have interior pressures acting on it from the building’s HVAC system. If the closer isn’t adequate enough to hold the door shut, the increase in air pressure from the HVAC system can cause the door to open just enough for the air to escape and may cause the wind outside to catch the door and violently throw it open.

If your door is over 9’ in height or more than 200 pounds, contact your distributor or the door closer manufacturer to verify the proper closer model and size needed. Installing a door closer that is too small for the application can cause valve failure and may cost you a repeat customer.

Appendix D

Lock & Hardware Finishes There are two major organizations that specify finish codes to the architectural world. They are BHMA, Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association, and ANSI, American National Standards Institute. ANSI codes are often referred to as "US" codes.

These organizations use a variety of finish codes to specify different information such as the base metal, or what the product is actually made of, and the color or finish. There is a difference between a color and a finish. Colors are made by applying different shades of pigmented material (paint, lacquer, etc…) over a base material. Finish is referring to the last step in the manufacturing process, (brushing, rubbing or antiquing, etc…).

The ANSI, US & BHMA finishes are used as standards; however certain finishes with the same designation may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some of the differences come from the fact that any given finish process will take differently to various materials such as steel, aluminum and brass.

BHMA US Code Letter Finish Description 100

1D

Satin Black

313

20A

DL

Duronotic (Brown)

313

20A

DU

Duronotic (Brown)

313

20A

Dark Statuary Bronze (Brown)

326

Polished Brass/Polished Chrome Split Finish

332

Polished Brass/Satin Stainless Steel Split Finish

403

Oil Rubbed Bronze

415

Oil Rubbed Bronze; Oxidized Satin Bronze Unfinished, no coating

416

Oil Rubbed Bronze on Cast Bronze Unfinished, no coating

423

Oil Rubbed Bronze Flat Black Coated

460

Simulated Hammer Iron; Nickel & Black Nickel Plated on Hammered Brass Relieved and Clear Coated

461

Satin Black Nickel Plated on Brass, Clear Coated

472

Verde Antique; Oxidized and Verde Colored on Brass, Clear Coated & Waxed

480

Bright Bronze, No Coating

483

Polished Copper; Copper Plated on Brass, Polished & Clear Coated

484

Satin Brass & Verde Antique; Oxidized & Verde Colored, Spot Relieved, Clear Coated & Waxed

485

Aged Brass, Oil Rubbed; Oxidized, No Coating

486

Aged Brass, Oxidized; Hand Rubbed, Clear Coated

488

Old English Brass; Crystallized, Light Oxidized and Clear Coated

489

Antique Copper; Copper Plated on Brass, Oxidized, Relieved & Clear Coated

499

Bright Brass, No Coating

480

Bright Bronze, No Coating

505

Lifetime Polished Brass

600

PC

603

2G

605

3

Prime Coat (primed and ready for paint) Zinc Plated on Steel

PB

Polished Brass, Clear Coated

606

Satin Brass, Clear Coated

607

Oil Rubbed Brass, Oxidized Satin Brass, Oil Rubbed, Clear Coated

609

5

609

5A

610

Blackened Satin Brass, Satin Relieved, Clear Coated AB

Antique Brass Blackened Bright Brass, Bright Relieved, Clear Coated

611

9

Polished Bronze, Clear Coated

612

10

Satin Bronze, Clear Coated

613

10B

Oil Rubbed Bronze, Oxidized Satin Bronze, Oil Rubbed

614

Satin Oxidized Clear Coated

616

11

Satin Bronze, Blackened Relieved, Clear Coated

617

130

Bright Bronze & Dark Brown, Dark Oxidized Satin

617

130

Bright Relieved Bronze, Clear Coated

618

14

Polished Nickel

619

15

Satin Nickel, Clear Coated

620

15A

Satin Nickel Plated, Blackened, Oxidized, Satin Relieved, Clear Coated

621

17A

Blackened Nickel, Clear Coated

621

17A

Simulated Old Iron; Nickel Plated, Blackened, Matte Relieved, Clear Coated

622

19

Satin Black, Flat Black Coated

623

20

Light Statuary Bronze, Clear Coated

624

20A

Dark Oxidized Statuary Bronze, Clear Coated

625

26

Bright Chromium Plated, No Coating

625

26

Polished Chrome, No Coating

626

26D

Satin Chromium Plated, No Coating

626

26D

Satin Chrome, No Coating

628

28

629

32

Polished Stainless Steel on Steel, No Coating

630

32D

Satin Stainless Steel on Steel, No Coating

AL

Satin Aluminum, Clear Coated

632

Polished Brass on Steel

633

Satin Brass on Steel

637

Polished Bronze on Steel

639

Satin Bronze on Steel

641

10A

Dark Bronze on Steel

645

14

Polished Nickel on Steel

646

15

Satin Nickel on Steel

651

26

Polished Chrome on Steel

652

26D

Satin Chrome on Steel

662

Antique Brass

689

Painted Silver Aluminum

710

Dark Bronze Anodized

711

Black Anodized

716

Aged Bronze 4

Satin Brass, Clear Coated

27

Aluminum

11P

Venetian Bronze

CU

Polished Copper

SCU

Satin Copper BLK Black K

Black Painted

BLU Blue Painted B

Brass

BP

Brass

BT

Brass Tone (Painted to simulate brass or dull brass)

CP

Cadmium

D

Dark Bronze Anodized

G

Gold Painted

GLD Gold Painted E

Green Painted

GRN Green Painted A

Mill Finish Aluminum

ORG Orange Painted O

Orange Painted

C

Powder Coat Aluminum

P

Prime Coat (primed and ready for paint)

PRP Purple Painted P

Purple Painted

RED Red Painted R

Red Painted

SL

Silver Coated

S

Stainless Steel

WH

White Painted

Appendix E

Appendix F

Lock & Security Hardware Glossary Blue underlined words have a description within this glossary 160 prep n. a standard door preparation that consists of a 2-1/8" cross-bore with a 2-3/8" backset, and a 1" edge-bore with a mortise 1" wide and 2-1/4" high.

161 prep n. a standard door preparation that consists of a 2-1/8" cross-bore with a 2-3/4" backset, and a 1" edge-bore with a mortise 1-1/8" wide and 2-1/4" high.

A2 n. an increment of .0125 typically used in a small format interchangeable core (SFIC).

A3 n. an increment of .018 typically used in a small format interchangeable core (SFIC).

A4 n. an increment of .021 typically used in a small format interchangeable core (SFIC).

AC Current n./abbr. (AC) Alternating current. This is the type of current generally associated with that which power companies supply to your home or business to operate lights, equipment and other standard plug-in style devices. access control n. a locking system employing electronics that may have audit trail, time and date discrimination, or lock mode indication capabilities. Note: You can have a mechanical access control lock system (ex: Simplex®1000 series). access level v. The door or combination of doors and/or barriers an individual is authorized to pass through. alternate action v. In the electric locking industry this defines a switching device that once mechanically actuated remains in the active state until actuated again. This is also referred to as maintained. annunciator n. An audible and/or visual signaling device accessory position n. the position of an ignition switch intended to permit the use of radio or other equipment without turning on a drive chain component. active leaf

n. the single door of a pair on that the active or locking hardware is mounted. actuator n. a device, connected to a cylinder, that, when activated, may cause a lock mechanism to operate.

ADA™ abbr. Americans with Disabilities Act™. adjustable collar n. a spring-loaded cylinder collar that can fill a range of gaps between the cylinder head and the door escutcheon surface. after hours depository n. a locked receptacle for the deposit of items after regular hours.

AHD abbr. after hours depository.

AHJ abbr. authority having jurisdiction. alarm system n. a system of electrical and/or electronic components, which detect and report dangers, such as fire or intrusion. aligning tube n. 1. a lock component that orients and joins the latch and knob spindles of certain bored locksets. 2. in some combination locks, a tube that houses the spindle, located between the dial ring and the lock.

ALOA® abbr. Associated Locksmiths of America, Inc™.

Americans with Disabilities Act™ n. a U.S. Federal Law dealing with minimum standards of building accessibility, as well as other issues concerning individuals with disabilities.

ANSI® abbr. American National Standards Institute™.

ANSI®117.1 n. that section of the American National Standards Institute® documents pertaining to handicap access.

ANSI®strike n. any of many strikes designed to fit door and frame preparations as specified in the applicable document in the ANSI® A115 series, common usage refers to a strike with dimensions of 4-7/8" x 1-1/4". anti friction

adj. pertaining to a feature, which, upon contact with the strike, allows smoother operation of a latch bolt. architectural hardware n. hardware used in building construction, especially that used in connection with doors. assembly occupancy n. those buildings or areas that are designated as places of assembly according to life safety or building codes. astragal n. a molding attached to the face of the active leaf of a pair of doors and overlapping the inactive leaf, typically used for security purposes on non-rated openings or fire/smoke control on rated openings.

ATM abbr. automatic teller machine.

ATT abbr. symbol for attendant's key. attendant's key n. a selective master key used in a hospital keying system. audit trail n. a specific group of events selected from transaction records and listed sequentially. authority having jurisdiction n. that person, usually within a municipality, charged with the application and interpretation of local fire/life safety and accessibility (ADA™) codes. automatic deadbolt n. a deadbolt designed to extend itself fully when the door is closed. automatic flush bolt n. a flush bolt designed to extend itself when both leaves of the pair of doors are in the closed position. automatic teller machine (ATM) n. a device for dispensing cash, receiving deposits and performing other banking functions upon presentation of the proper authorization. auxiliary lock n. any lock installed in addition to the primary lock.

back plate n. a thin piece of metal, usually with a concave portion, used with machine screws to fasten

certain types of cylinders to a door. backcheck n. the resistance provided by a door closer as a door is opened. backset n. the distance between the center of a cross-bore and the bolt edge of a door or drawer. ball locking adj. a method of locking a padlock shackle into its case using ball bearing(s) as the bolt(s). barrel bolt n. a surface mounted slide bolt that has a cylindrical shape. barrier free n. having to do with the absence of restrictions to access by the handicapped.

Barron, Robert n. the Englishman credited with the invention of the double acting lever tumbler in 1778.

Basic Building Code n. former name for BOCA®National Building Code. battery eliminator n. an electric device designed to provide energy to equipment normally requiring batteries for operation. bell box n. the protective enclosure for a bell or other alarm-sounding device. bevel (of a door) n. the pitch on the leading edge of a door that allows clearance for closing. bevel (of a lock) n. the pitch of the face designed to match the bevel of a door, some locks have an adjustable bevel. bezel n. a threaded collar commonly used to secure certain cylinder of lock assemblies.

BHMA™ abbr. Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association™.

Bi-Directional n. This defines a door that can swing in both directions into or out of the secure area.

Bi-Parting n. This defines a double door in which one door leaf swings into the secure area and one leaf swings out of the secure area. bible

n. that portion of the cylinder shell that normally houses the pin chambers, especially those of a key-in-knob cylinder or certain rim cylinders. bicycle padlock n. a padlock with sufficient shackle clearance to secure a bicycle. biometric adj. of or pertaining to a lock with a hybrid mechanism, part of the mechanism identifies a physical attribute such as finger print, voice print, etc. while another part is a mechanical mechanism. bit n. 1. the part of the key that serves as the blade, usually for use in a warded or lever tumbler locks. --v. 2. to cut a key. bit key n. a key with one or more projecting bits. bitting n. 1. the number(s) that represent(s) the dimensions of the key. 2. the actual cut(s) or combination of a key. bitting depth n. the depth of a cut that is made into the blade of a key. bitting list n. a listing of all the key combinations used within a system, the combinations are usually arranged in order of the blind code, direct code, and/or key symbol. bitting position n. the location of a cut on a key. blade n. the portion of a key that may contain the cuts and/or millings. blank adj. uncut. See also: "key blank".

BOCA™ abbr. Building Officials and Code Administration International™.

BOCA®National Building Code n. the model building code developed and published by BOCA®. bolt n. any movable projection that blocks the movement of one object relative to another. boltwork button n. the component that automatically triggers extension of the locking bolt(s) when the door is in the closed position.

BondSTAT n. Securitron’s monitoring system that is available on most magnetic locks. Unlike conventional switches that indicate if the door is closed, BondSTAT also notifies the access control or alarm system that the door is secure. bored lock n. a lock for a door prepared with one or more cross-bores and one or more edge-bores. boring jig n. a tool, which is temporarily affixed to a door, that provides a template structure to guide drill bits properly when preparing for the installation of specific hardware. bottom of blade n. the portion of the blade opposite the cut edge of a single bitted key. bottom pin n. a cylindrical shaped tumbler that may be conical, ball shaped, or chisel pointed on the end that makes contact with the key. bow n. the portion of the key that serves as a grip or handle. bow stop n. a type of stop located near the key bow. It stops the key from entering the keyway further than the manufacturer has designed, thus properly aligning the key cuts with the tumblers on a key that is cut for the given lock. box of wards n. a complete unit of intricate wards installed in or on a lock case. box strike n. a strike equipped to line the bolt cavity for both aesthetic and protective purposes.

Bramah, Joseph [bram'u, brä'–] n. the Englishman who had the world's first patent of a locking mechanism in 1784. It was the first lock incorporating a cylinder whose key did not contact the lock bolt directly. bridge ward n. a center ward attached to the interior of a lock by means of a bracket.

Bramah type lock n. a lock or cylinder using a mechanism with sliders, normally arranged in a circle. build up dimension n. 1. the distance between two different shear lines, as expressed in units of the manufacturer's increment or as an actual measurement. 2. the dimension of the buildup pin required in a particular chamber that will allow one key to operate at the plug shear line and a different key to operate at a different shear line.

build up pin n. the additional element of a pin stack required to allow operation at different shear lines in a cylinder. bump key n. A key that is modified from its original condition and slightly bumped once inserted into a lock while turning with slight pressure. Used to bypass the need for the proper key, therefore it is considered to be a burglary tool and, unless the holder of a bump key has a license, they could be fined and/or imprisoned. bypass key n. the key that operates a key override cylinder. bypass button n. pertaining to electrically-controlled locking devices, a button that is connected to an electric strike, magnetic lock or other electrical lock that, when depressed, allows the lock to disengage thus allowing access through a controlled door. bypass tool n. a device that neutralizes the security of a locking device, or its application hardware, often taking advantage of a design weakness.

cam n. 1. a lock or cylinder component that transfers the rotational motion of a key or cylinder plug to the bolt works of a lock. 2. the bolt of a cam lock. cam lock n. a complete locking assembly in the form of a cylinder whose cam is the actual locking bolt. cap n. 1. a spring cover for a single pin chamber. 2. a part that may serve as a plug retainer and/or a holder for the tailpiece. --v. 3. to install a cap. capping block n. a holding fixture for certain interchangeable cores that aids in the installation of the caps. card reader n. a device that interprets coding resident on or in cards. Generally used in conjunction with other electrical devices. case n. the housing or body of a lock. case cap n. the scalp of an automotive cylinder.

case cover n. the portion of a lock case that is designed to be removable to allow access to the mechanism. case ward n. any ward directly attached to or projecting from a lock case. central station n. a location designed for the express purpose of processing status signals for multiple alarm systems. certificate of occupancy n. a document, granted by the authority having jurisdiction, permitting occupancy or use. chamber n. any cavity in a cylinder plug and/or shell that houses the tumblers. change index n. the point on a key changeable combination lock dial ring to which the old and new combinations must be dialed when changing the combination. See also: "index". change key n. a key that operates only one cylinder or one group of keyed alike cylinders in a keying system.

Chubb shackle n. a hinged shackle with a pierced hole for the bolt in its movable end. claw bolt n. a bolt with one or more fingers that extend out of the bolt and lock behind the strike as the bolt reaches the locked position. clear opening n. a portal providing clearance through which passage is unhampered . clevis n. a device to permanently attach a chain to a padlock. clipper n. a hand held key bitting punch, often incorporating a trigger like handle. closed gated adj. pertaining to a lever tumbler whose gate is pierced into the body of the tumbler. The lever(s) surround the fence in both the locked and unlocked positions. closed knob n. a knob without an opening in its face. closet spindle n. a spindle with a thumbturn attached to one end.

closet latch n. a latchset which has a turning device with minimum projection in place of the inside knob or lever.

CML abbr. the title "Certified Master Locksmith" as awarded by ALOA®.

CO abbr. certificate of occupancy. code n. a designation assigned to a particular key combination for reference when additional keys or cylinders may be needed. See also: "direct code", and "key symbol". code key n. a key cut to a specific code rather than duplicated from a pattern key, it may or may not conform to the lock manufacturer’s specifications. combinated adj. 1. of or pertaining to a cylinder that is or is to be supplied with keys, tumblers and springs.

2. of or pertaining to a lock, cylinder or key in that the combination has been set. combination n. the group of numbers that represent the bitting of a key and/or the tumblers of a lock or cylinder. composite keyway n. a key that has been enlarged to accept more than one key section, often key sections of more than one manufacturer. compound bitted key n. a key with at least one compound cut. compound cut n. a bitting which has another bitting dimension within its dimensions. concealed vertical rod device n. a vertical rod exit device whose rods and header/threshold bolts are concealed within the door. concrete case n. an enclosure for mounting a floor closer. construction core n. an interchangeable or removable core designed for use during the construction phase of a building; cores are normally keyed alike (KA) and, upon completion of construction, they are to be replaced by the permanent system’s cores. construction master key n. a key normally used by construction personnel for a temporary period during building construction; may be rendered permanently inoperative without disassembling the cylinder.

construction master keyed adj. of or pertaining to a cylinder that is or is to be operated temporarily by a construction master key. continuous duty adj. designed to sustain application of electrical power for extended periods. control chamber n. in an interchangeable or removable core, any chamber which has a control shear line which is different from the operating shear line. control dimension n. in certain interchangeable or removable cores, the distance between the operating shear line and the control shear line, expressed either in units of the increment or as a measurement. control key n. 1. a key whose only purpose is to remove and/or install an interchangeable or removable core. 2. a bypass key used to operate and/or reset some combination type locks. 3. a key that allows disassembly of some removable cylinder locks. control shear line n. the shear line that allows operation of the control lug of an interchangeable or removable core. control sleeve n. the part of an interchangeable or removable core-retaining device that surrounds the plug. coordinator n. used in conjunction with a pair of doors, a device designed to cause the inactive leaf to close first. core n. a complete unit, often with a ‘figure eight’ shape, that usually consists of the plug, shell, tumblers, springs, plug retainer, and spring cover(s); is primarily used in removable and interchangeable core cylinders and locks. corner bracket n. a door closer mounting plate attached to the upper corner of the jamb.

CPL abbr. the title "Certified Professional Locksmith" as awarded by ALOA®.

CRL abbr. the title "Certified Registered Locksmith" as awarded by ALOA®. cross-bore n. a hole drilled into the face of a door where a bored or interconnected lockset is to be installed.

cruciform adj. of or pertaining to a key section or keyway that usually resembles a plus sign (+) or the letter "X". curved lip strike n. a strike so shaped as to effect smoother function of the latch while the door is closing. cut v. to make cuts into a key blade. See also: "key cut(s)". cutaway adj. 1. of or pertaining to a device with material removed or a transparent cover to expose and demonstrate a mechanism or feature. --n. 2. any cutaway product. cut key n. a key that has been bitted or combinated. cutter n. the part of a key machine that makes the cuts into the key blank. cylinder n. a complete operating unit that usually consists of the plug shell, tumblers, springs, plug retainer, a cam/tailpiece, or other actuating device and all other necessary operating parts. cylinder clip n. a spring steel device used to secure some types of cylinders. cylinder collar n. a plate or ring installed under the head of a cylinder to improve appearance and/or security. cylinder guard n. a protective cylinder-mounting device. cylinder key n. a broad generic term including virtually all pin and disc tumbler keys. cylindrical lockset n. a bored lockset whose latch or bolt locking mechanism is contained in the portion installed through the cross-bore.

day gate n. a barrier used to restrict passage during normal business hours, normally used at a vault entrance. day key n. 1. the key for a day gate or day operation of a safe or vault lock. 2. a cash register key that does not allow audit or reset functions. See also: "change key".

day lock n. a secondary lock used to restrict entry during normal business hours while the primary locking device is unlocked.

DC Current n./abbr. (DC). Direct Current. This is the type of current supplied by batteries, usually used for backup purposes with magnetic locking devices. deadbolt n. a bolt, that requires a deliberate action to extend, and that resists end pressure in the unlocking direction when fully extended. deadlock n. a lock that incorporates a deadbolt. deadlocking adj. pertaining to any feature, that, when fully engaged, resists attempts to move the latch, or bolt in the unlocking direction through direct pressure. deadlocking latch n. a latch bolt with a deadlocking mechanism. decoder gauge n. a measuring device which helps determine the combination of a lock or cylinder without removing the tumblers. delayed egress device n. A device that precludes the use of exits for a predetermined period of time. depth key set n. a set of keys used to make a code original key on a key duplicating machine to a lock manufacturer’s given set of key bitting specifications; each key is cut with the correct spacing to one depth only in all bitting positions, with one key for each depth.

DHI® abbr. Door and Hardware Institute™. dialer n. 1. a device that automatically places a telephone call to a pre set number when activated. --n.

2. an electro mechanical device that systematically tries different combinations on a dial operated combination lock. diamond back adj. pertaining to a rim cabinet lock whose mounting flanges and case forms the general shape of a diamond. diamond pick n. a tumbler manipulation device with a triangular protrusion at its tip.

dimple key n. a key whose cuts are drilled or milled into its blade surfaces; cuts normally do not change the blade silhouette. direct code n. a designation assigned to a particular key that includes the actual combination of the key. disc tumbler n. 1. a flat tumbler that must be drawn into the cylinder plug by the proper key so that none of its extremities extends into the shell. 2. a flat, rectangular tumbler with a gate that must be aligned with a sidebar by the proper key. dog v. 1. to place an exit device in the holdback mode. --n. 2. in marine applications the latch for the hatch. dogging cylinder n. a key operated cylinder used to dog an exit device. dogging key n. a key or tool used to dog an exit device. dogging screw n. a screw used to dog an exit device. door closer n. a device that controls the opening, closing or position of a door. See also: "door control". door control n. any device that controls the opening, closing or position of a door. See also: "door closer". door silencer n. a bumper installed in the jamb stop to quiet the closing of a door. double acting hinge n. a hinge that permits movement of a door in either direction from the closed positions. double acting lever tumbler n. one that must be lifted a precise amount, neither too little nor too much to allow movement of a bolt. double bitted key n. a key bitted on two opposite surfaces. double cylinder adj. pertaining to a lock with two keyed cylinders. double cylinder deadlock n. a deadbolt lock whose bolt may be operated by a key from either side.

double-D n. 1. a shape consisting of two opposing arcs and two opposing flats. --adj. 2. having such a shape. double-D punch n. a tool used to make a double-D hole. drilled key n. a type of bit key with a hole drilled into the shank from the tip. drive-in adj. pertaining to a latch or bolt with a round face. driver spring n. a spring placed on top of the pin stack to exert pressure on the pin tumblers. drop bolt n. a lock with an interlocking bolt which moves vertically and may enter loops on the strike. dual custody n. 1. a function designed to require the presence of two persons with two different keys, combinations or codes to operate the same device. --adj. 2. pertaining to such a function. dummy cylinder n. a non-functional facsimile of a rim or mortise cylinder use for appearance only, usually to conceal a cylinder hole. dummy trim n. non-active trim applied for aesthetic purposes. duplicate key n. any key reproduced from a pattern key. duress code n. a special combination or operation sequence that conveys an alarm or other signal to a remote location while allowing access. Generally used when threatened to alert a central station. dust box n. an enclosure applied under a strike to enhance appearance and/or performance. dust cover n. a device designed to prevent foreign matter from entering a mechanism through the keyway.

edge-bore n. a hole drilled into the edge of a door where a bored or interconnected lockset is to be installed. educational occupancy n. those buildings or areas that are designated as places for education purposes according to life safety or building codes. effective throw n. the distance a deadlatch remains projected when the guard bolt has been engaged and end pressure is applied to the latch. egress n. 1. A means of exit from a room, building or property. 2. A fire code that requires entry and exit specifications in bedrooms. 3. An exit. egress control n. This defines any electrical system that changes the normal means of egress for an exit door. ejector pin n. a tool used to drive all the elements of a pin chamber out of certain interchangeable cores. electric strike n. a strike that is operated electrically and allows access by a bypass button, keypad, card reader or other electrical input device. Generally used for access control. See also: keeper. electrified lockset n. a lock that is controlled electrically. electromagnetic adj. 1. Of or pertaining to electromagnetism or electromagnetic fields. 2. Of or exhibiting electromagnetism. 3. Pertaining to combined electric and magnetic fields associated with movements of electrons through conductors. emergency key n. the key that operates a privacy function lockset. emergency master key n. a special master key that usually operates all guestroom locks in a hotel master key system at all times, even in the shut out mode; key may also act as a shut out key. end ward cut n. any cut made into a key to bypass an end ward. entry/exit delay n. an alarm or access control feature that allows a specific time lapse between the activation of a switch and the activation of a secondary component. escutcheon n. a surface mounted trim that enhances the appearance and/or security of a lock installation.

exit delay timer n. This is an electronic timer that delays a person from immediately exiting a building for a preprogrammed amount of time (normally 15 seconds) after an attempt to exit has been made.

It is used primarily for loss prevention or wandering patient systems. exit device n. any device that is designed to allow anyone egress to the outside of a building without special knowledge, a key or other device. Most exit devices are installed on exterior doors of commercial buildings and are sometimes referred to as panic bars. exit only adj. refers to hardware designed to secure an opening in such a way as to permit exit at all times but prevent entry at all times. extension link n. a device that is used to extend the backset of a spring latch or dead latch. extractor key n. a tool that normally removes a portion of a two-piece key or blocking device from a keyway.

face n. the finished component of a lock visible on the edge of a door. faceplate n. the finished, removable plate that covers the front of some locks. factory original key n. the cut key furnished by the lock manufacturer for a lock or cylinder. fail-safe adj. 1. A feature of a security device designed to release or unlock, for safety purposes, during a power loss. 2. In the electric locking industry this defines any device that requires power (electrical energy) to remain locked. This can also be referred to as fail unlocked. fail-secure adj. 1. A feature of a security device designed to remain locked, for security purposes, during a power loss. 2. In the electric locking industry this defines any device that requires power (electrical energy) to be unlocked. This can also be referred to as fail locked. fence n. any locking element other than a sidebar or shackle designed to enter a tumbler's gate. file cabinet lock n. 1. any lock used on a file cabinet. 2. a plunger lock cylinder for a gang lock normally used in a file cabinet.

finish n. a material, coloring and/or texturing specification. fire alarm n. a system designed to detect and report conditions, which may indicate presence of a fire. fire door n. a door constructed to provide a specific degree of fire protection. fire door assembly n. any combination of a fire door, frame, hardware and other accessories, that together provides a specific degree of fire protection to the opening. fire exit hardware n. exit devices that may legally be installed, on fire doors; distinguished from other exit devices because it is labeled for both fire and panic and has no means of locking the latch in a retracted position. flat goods n. ancillary architectural hardware such as push plates, mop plates, stretcher plates, kick plates, etc. flat type key n. a key that is completely flat on both sides, usually used for warded or lever tumbler locks. foot n. the cam portion of the trunnion assembly in some lever tumbler locks. frangible shackle n. a padlock shackle designed to be broken easily. frangible shackle padlock n. a padlock equipped with an easily broken shackle. front n. the portion of a lock that provides the means of mounting the locking device to the edge of the door. full mortise adj. 1. pertaining to a method of installing in that only the faceplate and trim are exposed, lock case is installed in a pocket in the door or drawer. --v. 2. to make a rectangular pocket in a door or drawer that is only open on the edge of the door or drawer. fusible link arm n. a door closer arm, that includes a mechanism for holding a door open. This mechanism has an element that, when subjected to certain temperatures, melts and allows the door to close.

gang lock n. a locking mechanism with multiple bolts that locks different openings simultaneously by a single action. garage door lock n. a rim lock mechanism designed for use on an overhead door, whose mechanism has a spring-loaded bolt that automatically locks the door's bolt mechanism. glass relocker n. a device employing a breakable plate intended to permanently incapacitate a security container’s normal opening mechanism if activated by physical attack on the container.

GMK section abbr. grand master key section.

GMK’D abbr. grand master keyed. grand master key or GMK n. the key that operates two or more separate groups of locks, that are each operated by a different master key. grand master key system n. a master key system that has exactly three levels of keying. grand master keyed or GMK’D adj. of or pertaining to a lock or cylinder that is or is to be keyed into a grand master key system. graphite n. a very common mineral, soft native carbon, occurring in black to dark-gray masses used for pencil leads, as a lubricant, and for making crucibles and electrodes. It is widely known that graphite is not a good lock lubricant. graphite gun n. a usually flexible container designed to dispense a powdered lubricant that is known as graphite. great grand master key or GGMK n. the key that operates two or more separate groups of locks that are each operated by a different grand master key (GMK). great grand master key system n. a master key system that has exactly four levels of keying. great grand master keyed or GGMK’D adj. of pertaining to a lock or cylinder that is or is to be keyed into a great grand master key system.

great great grand master key or GGGMK n. the key that operates two or more separate groups of locks that are each operated by a different great grand master keys. great great grand master key system n. a master key system that has five or more levels of keying. great great grand master keyed or GGGMK’D adj. of or pertaining to a lock or cylinder that is or is to be keyed into a great great grand master key system. grip n. the knob, lever, thumb piece, push-pull operator, etc. of any working trim.

GSA abbr. General Services Administration (US Government).

GSA container n. any container approved by the General Services Administration for storage of classified material. guard bolt n. a spring loaded bolt which, when activated, will deadlock a latch bolt. guard key n. a key that must be used in conjunction with a renter’s key to unlock a safe deposit lock, usually the same for every lock within an installation. guide n. 1. that part of a key machine that follows the cuts of a pattern key or template during duplication. 2. that part of a flat-key lever lock that connects the nose to the foot and supports the key blade.

half-mortise hinge n. a hinge that has one leaf mortised into the door and the second leaf applied to the surface of the frame. half-surface hinge n. a hinge that has one leaf mounted onto a face of the door and the second leaf mortised into the frame. hand change adj. pertaining to a combination lock in which the wheels must be removed in order to change the combination.

handed adj. pertaining to hardware that is manufactured only for application on doors with a specific orientation. See also: "left hand"; "left hand reverse bevel"; "right hand"; & "right hand reverse bevel". handicapped code n. any building code designed to ease access for handicapped persons. hard wire system adj. one in that the components are directly connected to the central control unit. hardware schedule n. a listing of the door hardware used on a particular job; includes the type of hardware, manufacturers, locations, finishes, and sizes; should include a keying schedule specifying how each locking device is to be keyed. hasp n. a hinged metal strap designed to be passed over a staple and secured in place. heel & toe locking n. describes a padlock which has locking dogs at both the heel and toe of the shackle. heel (of a padlock shackle) n. the part of a padlock shackle that is retained in the case when in the unlocked position. high security cylinder n. a cylinder that offers a greater degree of resistance to any or all of the following: picking (‘def.

2’), impressioning, key duplication, drilling, or other forms of forcible entry. high security key n. a key for a high security cylinder. hinge n. 1. a jointed device or flexible piece on which a door, gate, shutter, lid or other attached part turns, swings, or moves. --v. 2. to furnish with or attach as if by a hinge. hinge security stud n. a protrusion on one leaf of a hinge that interlocks with the other when the door is closed. hinge stile n. the vertical edge of a door where hinges are installed. hinged shackle n. a shackle whose heel is permanently mounted to the padlock case in a manner that allows the shackle to pivot to open.

Hobbs shackle n. a hinged shackle with a notch for the bolt in its movable end.

holding force adj. In electric locks it’s the amount of foot-pounds required to be applied to the lock before it releases or fails to continue holding the door locked. hold open arm n. a door closer arm with the capability of maintaining the door in the open position. hook bolt n. a lock bolt shaped in the general outline of a hook, used on sliding doors or where spreading of the frame and door is a possible attack. See also: "claw bolt". horizontal exit n. an exit to the outside or an area of refuge on the same or nearly the same level. horizontal linkage n. a metal rod that is attached at one end to the lock mechanism, or a portion thereof, and the other end to the lock lever, or a portion thereof, on virtually every make and model of vehicle manufactured up to the year 2001. It is also used on the outside handle and/or keyed lock of most vehicle doors. When the lock lever is pushed down or pulled up, the lock mechanism is locked or unlocked via the linkage. See also: vertical linkage. horizontal locking n. the locking mechanism associated with vehicle doors that use horizontal linkages. horn n. in a non cylinder lock, the housing which surrounds the nose and extends through the door or drawer. horn plate n. the cover of a lever tumbler lock case to which the horn is attached. hospital hinge n. a hinge with a large chamfer at each end of the knuckle. housing n. that part of a locking device that is designed to hold a core. hub n. a lock component that redirects rotational motion from a spindle or shaft to linear movement of a latch or bolt. hybrid locking system n. a locking system which derives its security from two or more different technologies operated by the same key in one device, e.g. mechanical/electronic, mechanical/magnetic, etc.

IC abbr. interchangeable core.

ICBO™ abbr. International Conference of Building Officials™. ignition key release n. a button or other actuator that must be pushed before a vehicle's ignition key may be turned to the withdrawal position. ignition lock n. the lock assembly associated with a vehicle's engine on off switch and starter. index (of a combination lock dial) n. the mark outside the dial ring of a combination lock used as a reference point. See also: opening index. indicator n. a device that provides visual evidence that a deadbolt is extended or that a lock is in the shut out mode. inswing adj. This defines a door that swings into the secure area when released. interchangeable core n. a key removable core that can be used in all or most of the core manufacturer’s product line; no tools (other than the control key) are required for removal of the core. interconnected lockset n. a lockset whose trim provides a means of simultaneous retraction of two or more latch bolts that may also be operated independently. interlocking bolt n. a bolt that interlocks with its strike when fully engaged. intermittent duty adj. of or pertaining to an electric strike of lock not designed to be energized for extended periods of time.

IR abbr. Infrared.

jamb n. the vertical components of a doorframe. jimmy proof adj. pertaining to a lock having a bolt that interlocks with its strike.

jumbo cylinder n. a rim or mortise cylinder of 1-1/2" diameter.

KA1, KA2, etc. abbr. a symbol that indicates that all cylinders so designated are or are to be operated by the same key(s); the numerical designation indicates the keyed alike group or set.

KA/2, KA/3, etc. abbr. symbol used to indicate the quantity of locks or cylinders in keyed alike groups; groups are formed from a larger quantity; e.g. 30 cylinders KA/2. keeper n. the movable portion of an electric strike that captures the bolt. See also: "strike". key n. a properly combinated device that is, or most closely resembles, the device specifically intended by the lock manufacturer to operate the corresponding lock. key blank n. any material manufactured to the proper size and configuration that allows its entry into the keyway of a specific locking device; a key blank has not yet been combinated or cut. key change adj. referring to a lock in that the combination can be changed through the use of a special key or tool without disassembling the lock. key coding machine n. a key machine designed for the production of code keys; may or may not also serve as a duplicating machine. key control n. 1. any method or procedure that limits unauthorized acquisition of a key and/or controls distribution of authorized keys. 2. a systematic organization of keys and key records. key cut(s) n. the portion of the key blade that remains after being cut and that aligns the tumbler(s). When identifying the cuts, they are usually read from the bow to the tip of the key. key duplicating v. 1. the act of copying a key. 2. to copy a key – as in using a key duplicating machine. key duplicating machine n. a key machine that is designed to make copies from a pattern key or template key.

key gauge n. a usually flat device with a cutaway portion indexed with a given set of depth or spacing specifications, used to help determine the combination of a key. key-in-knob cylinder n. a cylinder used in a key-in-knob lockset. key-in-knob lockset n. any lockset with a key operated cylinder in one or more knobs. key-in-lever lockset n. any lockset with a key operated cylinder in one or more levers. key machine n. any machine designed to cut keys. See also: "key coding machine" and "key duplicating machine". key milling n. the grooves machined into the length of the key blade to allow its entry into the keyway. key override n. 1. a provision allowing interruption or circumvention of normal operation of a combination lock or electrical device. --adj. 2. of or pertaining to such a provision, as in "key override cylinder". key override cylinder n. a lock cylinder installed in a device to provide a key override function. key pull(s) n. a lock specification that indicates by quantity and orientation the position(s) in that a key may be withdrawn. key pull position n. any position, of the cylinder plug in that the key can be removed.

Key Records Department n. the department that is responsible for generating and issuing all lock and key combinations and maintaining records of them. key retaining adj. 1. of or pertaining to a lock that must be locked before its key can be removed. 2. of or pertaining to a cylinder or lock that may prevent removal of a key without the use of an additional key and/or tool. key section n. the exact cross sectional configuration of a key blade as viewed from the bow toward the tip. key switch n. a switch operated by a keyed lock mechanism that may be an integral part of the switch assembly. Generally used for operating electrically-controlled gates, magnetic locks, electric strikes and the like.

key symbol n. a designation used for a key combination in the standard key coding system, e.g., A, AA, AA1, etc. Generally used in a master key system. keyed adj. 1. Combinated. 2. having provision for operation by key. keyed alike or KA adj. of or pertaining to two or more locks or cylinders that have or are to have the same combination; may or may not be part of a keying system. keyed different or KD adj. of or pertaining to a group of locks or cylinders, each of that is or is to be combinated differently from the others; may or may not be part of a keying system. keyed random adj. of or pertaining to a cylinder or group of cylinders selected from a limited inventory of different key changes; duplicate bittings may occur. keyhole n. the opening through which a non cylinder key must pass to enter a lock. keyhole lock n. a lock that blocks the keyhole of a bit key lock. keyhole plate n. an escutcheon for a keyhole. keying n. any specification for how a cylinder or group of cylinders are or are to be combinated in order to control access. keying kit n. a compartmented container that holds an assortment of tumblers, springs, and/or other parts used to combinate a key cylinder. keying schedule n. a detailed specification of the keying system listing how all cylinders are to be keyed and the quantities, markings, and shipping instructions of all keys and/or cylinders to be provided. keyway n. 1. the opening in a lock or cylinder that is shaped to accept key bit or blade of a proper configuration. 2. the exact cross sectional configuration of a keyway as viewed from the front. keyway post n. 1. See "guide "definition 2". 2. the projecting pin of a lock or cylinder which enters the hollow end of a key. keyway ward n. a ward that prevents entry of an incorrect key into a cylinder or lock.

kick plate n. a protective plate mounted on the bottom of a door to prevent damage to minimize damage to the door. knob (of a door) n. a projecting part, usually rounded, forming the handle of a door, drawer, or the like. knock out tag n. the portion of a key bow where a code number may be stamped and which is designed to be removed from the bow prior to normal usage. knuckle n. a cylindrical part of a hinge, through which an axis or pin passes; the joint of a hinge.

KR abbr. 1. keyed random. 2. key retaining.

L-handle n. an L-shaped handle assembly that may be lockable.

L-handle lock n. a cabinet lock with an L-shaped handle. laminated padlock n. a padlock whose case is constructed of separate metal plates usually riveted together. latch n. a mechanical device that automatically keeps a door closed until a deliberate action is used to retract it. See also: electric strike. latch bolt n. a spring actuated bolt, normally with one or more beveled surfaces, that, when aligned with the strike, engages it automatically. latching speed (of a door closer) n. the final speed of a door just prior to closing. latchset n. a non-locking device that contains only a latch bolt, a means of operating said latch and all required trim. Generally referring to a non-locking knob or lever, such as for a bedroom or closet. lazy cam/tailpiece n. a cam or tailpiece designed to remain stationary while the cylinder plug is partially rotated and/or vice-versa.

LED abbr. 1. Light-Emmiting Diode. Used as a visual indication of lock status. 2. A light-emitting diode (LED) is a semiconductor device that emits incoherent narrow-spectrum light when electrically biased in the forward direction. left-hand (LH) adj. pertaining to door handing, when the hinges of a door are located on the left side of the door and the door opens into a building or room, or, when pushed, moves toward the inside of a building or room. Use when determining the handing of handed locksets. See also: handed. left hand reverse bevel (LHR) adj. pertaining to door handing, when the hinges of a door are located on the left side of the door and the door opens out of a building or room, or pulls toward the outside to open. Use when determining the handing of handed locksets. See also: handed. lever n. 1. a part of some locks that, when pushed or pulled in the downward direction, causes the lock mechanism to retract the latch. A lever is sometimes used instead of a knob. 2. any rigid bar, straight or bent, that oscillates about a pivot and acts with other parts in the manner of a lever. lever pack n. a set of lever tumblers. lever tumbler n. a flat, spring loaded tumbler that usually pivots on a post, contains a gate that must be aligned with a fence to allow movement of the bolt.

LH abbr. left-hand.

LHR abbr. left-hand reverse-bevel. loading tool n. a tool that aids installation of cylinder components into the cylinder shell.

LOBC abbr. locked on by combination. lock n. any device that prevents access or use by requiring special knowledge or equipment. lock service package n. a kit offered by the manufacturer or distributor of a product that contains what they deem required to properly service the product. lock stile n. the vertical edge of a door designed for lock or latch installation.

locker lock n. a cabinet lock designed specifically for use on lockers. locking lug n. a fixed component of a safe that locks the safe door in place in the locked position. locking lug nut n. a lug nut that requires the use of a key or special wrench. lockset n. a locking device, complete with trim, mounting hardware and strike. locksmith n. a person with the knowledge and ability to select, install, service, and bypass all the components of an electrical or mechanical lock.

magnetic contact n. an electrical switch activated by magnetic attraction or repulsion. magnetic lock n. a lock specifically designed to hold a door, or other object, in the shut position until electricity is no longer allowed to pass through its coils, such as when a bypass button, card reader or other device is properly accessed. man trap n. a sally port designed for pedestrian traffic. master key or MK n. 1. a key that operates all the master keyed locks or cylinders in a group, each lock or cylinder usually operated by its own change key. --v. 2. to combinate a group of locks or cylinders such that each is operated by its own change key as well as by a master key for the entire group. master key changes n. the number of different usable change keys available under a given master key. master key system n. 1. any keying arrangement that has two or more levels of keying. 2. a keying arrangement that has exactly two levels of keying. master keyed or MK’D adj. 1. of or pertaining to a cylinder or group of cylinders that are or are to be combinated so that all may be operated by their own change key(s) and by additional key(s) known as master key(s). 2. a warded lock whose warding has been designed to allow different hierarchies of keys to operate. master keyed only MK’D only adj. of or pertaining to a lock or cylinder that is or is to be combinated only to a master key.

master pin n. 1. a cylindrical shaped tumbler, flat on both ends, placed between the top and bottom pin to create an additional shear line. 2. a pin tumbler with multiple gates to accept a sidebar. master wafer n. a ward used in certain binary type disc tumbler key-in-knob locks. See also: "master pin" description 1. matrix format master keying n. a method of generating combinations and assigning key symbols in a master key system through the use of a matrix. metal desk lock n. a cabinet lock with a vertically sliding bolt located at the rear of the cylinder. meter lock n. 1. a padlock whose shackle consists of a single removable post, designed for locking utility meters or valves. 2. any of several small devices specifically designed to lock utility meters or valves and which require either a key or special wrench for removal. mis-cut adj. 1. of or pertaining to a key that has been cut incorrectly. --n. 2. a mis-cut key.

MK section abbr. master key section. mogul cylinder n. a very large pin tumbler cylinder whose pins, springs, key, etc. are also proportionally increased in size; primarily used in prison locks. momentary adj. 1. In the electric locking industry this defines a switching device that is only active when mechanically actuated. As soon as the mechanical actuation is removed it returns to its resting or original state. 2. Lasting but a moment; very brief; fleeting. mortise v. 1. to prepare by removing stock material from the edge of a door, drawer, frame or opening to create a recess that allows the flush fit or insetting of relevant lock or locking related hardware.

--n. 2. the cavity prepared by mortising. --adj. 3. of or pertaining to a locking device designed to fit in a mortise preparation. mortise cylinder n. a threaded cylinder typically used in mortise locks of American manufacture. mortise exit device n. an exit device designed for mortise installation. mortise lockset n. a lockset whose case is designed to fit in a mortise in the edge of a door or drawer.

MP abbr. manipulation proof.

MR abbr. manipulation resistant.

MS® abbr. Maximum Security™. A trademark of the Adams Rite Manufacturing Co®. mullion n. a vertical center post in the frame of a pair of doors. multi-section key blank n. a key section that enters more than one, but not all keyways in a multiplex key system. mushroom pin n. a pin tumbler, usually a top pin, that resembles a mushroom, typically used to increase pick resistance.

neck (of a key) n. 1. the portion of a bit key between the shoulder and the bit(s) 2. the portion of a cylinder key between the shoulder and the bow.

NFPA® 80 n. National Fire Protection Association® standards for doors and windows.

NFPA® 101 n. National Fire Protection Association® life safety code.

NFS abbr. non-fail safe. nightlatch n. a rim mounted auxiliary latch bolt.

NLSA™ abbr. National Locksmith Suppliers Association™. non-fail safe or NFS adj. a feature of a security device designed to remain engaged or locked, for security purposes, during a power loss. non-handed adj. pertaining to hardware that is manufactured in a way that allows installation on doors of any orientation without requiring modification or adjustment to accommodate the door orientation.

See also: handed.

non-key retaining or NKR adj. of or pertaining to a lock whose key can be removed in both the locked and unlocked positions. See also: key retaining. non-keyed adj. having no provision for key operation. Note: this term also includes privacy function locksets operated by an emergency key. non-removable key adj. a key that has one or more cuts on it that traps the key in the lock upon insertion. non-removable pin n. pertaining to a hinge whose pin cannot be removed when the door is closed. nose n. the part of a non-cylinder lock that contains the keyway and rotates within a horn. nose puller n. a tool used to remove the nose of a lever tumbler lock and allow access to the tumblers.

NRK abbr. non-removable key.

NRP abbr. non-removable pin.

NUR abbr. symbol for nurse's key. nurse's key n. a selective master key used in a hospital keying system.

occupancy type adj. the use to which an area of a building is put with reference to the prevailing life safety or building code. one bitted adj. of or pertaining to a cylinder that is or is to be combinated to keys cut to the manufacturer’s reference number one bitting. open gated adj. pertaining to a lever tumbler whose gate is in the edge of the tumbler. opening index n. the index or mark to which a combination is dialed in order to effect an opening. See also: index.

operating shear line n. any shear line that allows normal operation of a cylinder or lock. original key blank n. a key blank supplied by the lock manufacturer to fit that manufacturer’s specific product. outswing adj. This defines a door that swings out of the secure area when released. Release hold timer: This is an electronic timer that extends the activation of a momentary switch for a preprogrammed amount of time. overhead stop n. a mechanical device normally installed at the top of the door face and doorframe header used to restrict the degree of the door swing.

pack n. the set of tumblers in a lever tumbler or combination lock. padlock n. a detachable and portable lock with a shackle, which locks into its case. panic button n. any switching device in an alarm system designed to be activated by a person in a panic situation. It creates an immediate alarm condition. paracentric adj. 1. of or pertaining to a keyway with one or more wards on each side projecting beyond the vertical center line of the keyway to hinder picking. 2. of or pertaining to a key blank made to enter such a keyway. passage set n. a non-locking latchset. See also: lock functions. pattern key n. a key that is cut, is or is to be used to operate a lock, and is used in conjunction with a key duplicating machine to duplicate the cuts on the given key. A key template. pawl n. the cam of certain automotive cylinders. peanut cylinder n. a mortise cylinder of 3/4" diameter. peep hole n. a small lens or opening that allows a limited view through a closed door.

personal identification number n. a series of numbers and/or letters associated with a particular individual as a means of identification. See also: PIN. pick n. 1. a tool or instrument, other than the specifically designed key, made for the purpose of manipulating tumblers in a lock or cylinder into the locked or unlocked position through the keyway, without obvious damage. --v. 2. to manipulate tumblers in a keyed lock mechanism through the keyway, without obvious damage, by means other than the specifically designed key. pick key n. a type of manipulation key, cut or modified to operate a lock or cylinder.

PIN abbr. personal identification number. pin v. 1. to install pin tumblers into a cylinder and/or cylinder plug. See also: "tumbler". --n. 2. a cylindrical shaped tumbler generally found in cylindrical locksets. See also: pin tumbler. pin chamber n. the corresponding hole drilled into the cylinder shell and/or plug to accept the pin(s) and spring. pin kit n. a type of keying kit for a pin tumbler mechanism. pinning kit; rekeying kit. pin tumbler n. a cylindrical shaped tumbler; three types are normally used: bottom pin, master pin and top pin. pin tweezers n. a tool used in handling tumblers and springs. pinning block n. a holding fixture that assists in the loading of tumblers into a cylinder or cylinder plug. pinning chart n. a numerical diagram that indicates the sizes and order or installation of the various pins into a cylinder; sizes are indicated by a manufacturer’s reference number that equals the quantity of increments a tumbler represents. pippin file n. a file with a cross section that resembles a pip or apple seed.

PIR abbr. passive infrared.

plug n. the part of a cylinder that contains the keyway, with tumbler chambers usually corresponding to those in the cylinder shell. plug follower n. a tool used to allow removal of the cylinder plug while retaining the top pins, springs, and/or other components within the shell. plug holder n. a holding fixture that assists in the loading of tumblers into a cylinder plug. plug retainer n. the cylinder component that secures the plug in the shell. plug spinner n. a tool that rotates a picked cylinder plug so quickly in the desired direction that it cannot lock during its rotation. plunger lock n. any of various spring loaded locks or cylinders that move in or out to accomplish a locking function. See also: file cabinet lock. pop out lock n. a plunger lock usually used on vending machines to prevent operation of a T-handle. post (of a key) n. the portion of a bit key between the tip and the shoulder, to which the bit(s) is(are) attached. power locks n. electrically or electro-pneumatically operated locks. practical key changes n. the total number of usable different combinations available for a specific cylinder or lock mechanism. pre assembled lockset n. a lock designed to be installed into a cutout in the edge of a door. The lock body and most or all of its trim need no further assembly other than securing it to the door. prep abbr. n. 1. the location and dimensions of the cut out(s) and reinforcing in a door or frame required to accept a piece of hardware. Preparation. --v. 2. to prepare a door or frame for installation of a lock or other hardware. Prepare. primary key n. a key, that operates the ignition lock on a vehicle; may or may not also operate some or all the other locks on the vehicle. privacy key n. a key that operates an SKD cylinder. See also: "emergency key".

profile cylinder n. a cylinder with a uniform cross section, that slides into place and is held by a mounting screw, typically used in mortise locks of non-US. Manufacturers. proprietary adj. of or pertaining to a keyway and key section assigned exclusively to one end user by the lock manufacturer; may also be protected by patent law from duplication.

Pullman keeper n. a type of keeper that is shaped to operate with the radiused contour of a Pullman latch.

Pullman latch n. a type of latch that pivots like a hinge and whose locking side is radiused. push button lock n. a self-contained lock with controls that must be pressed in a specific pattern or sequence to open the lock. Usually mechanical in design. push plate n. typically a flat piece of metal that is installed on an area of a door that is normally pushed on by those using the door to enter or exit an area. Designed to take the abuse of wear and tear, instead of the door itself.

random master key n. any undesirable process used to master key that uses unrelated keys to create a system. ratchet lock n. any lock which incorporates a ratchet device allowing locking in more than one position. read v. to decode a lock combination visually without disassembly of the lock or cylinder. recombinate v. to change the combination of a lock, cylinder or key. rekey v. to change the existing combination of a cylinder or lock. remote release n. a mechanism for permitting the unlocking of any lock device at a distance from the device. removable core n. a key removable core that can only be installed in one type of cylinder housing; e.g., rim cylinder, mortise cylinder or key-in-knob lock. removable cylinder n. a cylinder that can be removed from a locking device by a key and/or tool.

removable shackle adj. referring to a type of padlock that is unlocked by removing the shackle from the case. removal key n. the part of a two-piece key that is used to remove its counterpart from a keyway. See also: "control key" definitions 1 and 3. repin v. to replace pin tumblers, with or without changing the existing combination. See also: rekey. request to exit v. 1. This defines the activity of having a remote device (such as a push button) tell the access control system to release the door so someone can exit. abbr. 2. REX resistor pellet n. the encapsulated resistor with exposed contacts installed in a key, such as that for VATS™. restricted adj. of or pertaining to a keyway and corresponding key blank whose sale and/or distribution is limited by the lock manufacturer in order to reduce unauthorized key duplication. retainer n. a component that is clipped, staked or driven in place to maintain the working relationship of other components. retainer pin n. 1. a component seated on a spring, in the end of a plug that interacts with a retainer cap to keep it in place. 2. any non-threaded rod that maintains the relationship of two or more different parts. reversible adj. pertaining to hardware that is manufactured in a way that allows field assembly or adjustment to accommodate installation on doors with different orientations. See also: handed. reversible key n. a symmetrical key that may be inserted either way up to operate the lock, such as in some automotive keys.

RF abbr. Radio Frequency. right-hand (RH) adj. pertaining to door handing, when the hinges of a door are located on the right side of a door and the door opens into a building or room, or, when pushed, moves toward the inside of a building or room. Use when determining the handing of handed locksets. See also: handed. right hand reverse bevel (RHR) adj. pertaining to door handing, when the hinges of a door are located on the right side of a door and the door opens out of a building or room, or pulls toward the outside to open. Use when determining the handing of handed locksets. See also: handed

rim cylinder n. a cylinder typically used with surface applied locks and attached with a back plate and machine screws; has a tailpiece to actuate the lock mechanism. rim lock n. a lock or latch typically mounted on the surface of a door or drawer. ring key n. a key attached to a ring to be worn on the finger.

RL abbr. The title "Registered Locksmith" as awarded by ALOA®. rose n. a circular escutcheon. round back adj. pertaining to a rim cabinet lock whose mounting flanges and case form the general shape of a circle when viewed from the back.

S/A abbr. sub-assembled. safe n. a secure box, esp. of iron or steel, for storing valuable articles. sally port n. an access control area with doors or gates secured by interlocks such that only one may be opened at a time. Generally used in banks. See also: man trap.

SBCCI™ abbr. Southern Building Code Congress International™. scalp n. a thin piece of metal that is usually crimped or spun onto the front of a cylinder; determines the cylinder’s finish and may also serve as the plug retainer.

Scandinavian padlock n. a cast case padlock with an elliptical cross section. The locking mechanism is a set of rotating disc tumblers that engage notches in the cast shackle and may be rotated by the angled cuts cast on the key. screen door lock n. a lock designed for the thin stiles typically found on screen and storm doors.

screw less knob n. a mortise lock knob assembly secured to the spindle without screws. screw less rose n. a mortise lock escutcheon rose installed without screws. secondary key n. a key that operates certain locks on a vehicle, but not the ignition lock. secret gate latch n. a small keyless rim latch, that when properly installed, is operated by pressing a concealed actuator. security collar n. a protective cylinder collar. See also: "cylinder guard".

SFIC® abbr. Small Format Interchangeable Core®. shackle n. the part of a padlock, that passes through an opening in an object or fits around an object and is ultimately locked into the case. shackle retaining pin n. a pin that keeps an unlocked shackle heel in the case. shackle spring n. a spring that pushes the shackle into the open position when the padlock is unlocked. shank n. the part of a bit key between the bow and the stop; or, if there is no shoulder stop, the part between the bow and the near side of the bit. shear aligning maglock n. A magnetic lock that is designed for use on sliding or swing-through doors. The magnetic force is applied along the horizontal axis of the strike instead of typical magnetic locks which force is applied directly to the flat surface of the strike. shear line n. 1. A location in a cylinder at which specific tumbler surfaces must be aligned, removing obstruction(s) that prevented the plug from moving. 2. A location on a door and frame where the door meets the frame when fully closed. shell n. the part of the cylinder that surrounds the plug and that usually contains tumbler chambers corresponding to those in the plug. shim n. 1. a thin piece of material used to unlock the cylinder plug from the shell by separating the pin tumbler at the shear line, one at a time. --v. 2. to unlock a cylinder plug from its shell by using a shim. –v. 3. to open a latch or bolt by use of a pry tool or thin stiff material.

shoe n. 1. a bracket that attaches to the arm of a door closer to the door or frame. 2. the surface mounted case and guide components of an exit device. 3. a mortise lock component that transfers pivoting motion of a thumb piece to linear movement of the latch. shoulder n. any key stop other than a tip stop. See also: "bow stop". showcase lock n. normally a ratchet lock or plunger lock used on bypassing doors. shrouded shackle n. a shackle that is protected from cutting or tampering by design or by the use of secondary shields. shunt switch n. a maintained contact switch, often key operated. shutter n. a spring-loaded device that covers a cylinder keyway when the key is not in it. shutter spring n. a spring that returns the shutter on a lock to the closed position. sickle key n. a key in the form of a sickle inserted through a hole in a door to actuate a bolt on the opposite side of the door. sidebar n. a cylinder component that enters gate(s) in tumbler(s) to allow plug rotation. sidebar lock n. a lock mechanism that incorporates a sidebar. side ward n. a ward that prevents entry of an incorrect key into a non cylinder lock. side ward cut n. a cut made into a key to bypass a side ward. simple latch n. a non-deadlocking latch. See also: "deadlocking latch". simultaneous retraction n. a feature that allows retraction of both the deadbolt and latchbolt in the same operation.

Typically found on mortise locksets that are installed on doors. single acting lever tumbler n. a lever tumbler that must be moved a minimum distance to allow travel of a bolt, but cannot be moved so far as to restrict travel of the bolt.

single cylinder adj. pertaining to a lock with key operation from only one side. See also: "double cylinder". single-D adj. the shape of a cutout for a lock, circular except for the flat section on one side. skeleton key n. any non-cylinder key whose bit, blade and/or post is cut away enough to allow it to enter and turn in locks with different ward arrangements. slider n. a tumbler which is normally flat, has a gate and moves with a linear or lateral motion instead of pivoting like a lever tumbler. slimjim n. a narrow strip of spring steel used to bypass the cylinder and unlock vehicle doors.

Small Format Interchangeable Core® n. an interchangeable core that replicates the functionality and design popularized by Best®.

See also: A2, A3, and A4. spacing n. the dimensions from the stop to the center of the first cut and/or to the centers of successive cuts. spare tire lock n. a lock designed to prevent removal of a vehicle's spare tire. spindle n. a component that transfers rotary motion from outside a lock or latch case to an inner mechanism. split finish adj. of or pertaining to a lockset whose finish is different on each side of the door. split spindle n. a multi piece spindle that allows independent rotation of a knob or lever. spool pin n. usually a top pin that resembles a spool, typically used to increase pick resistance. See also: "mushroom pin". spring cover n. a device for sealing one or more pin chambers. spring seat n. the point at which a spring is anchored, located or attached and at which (from which) it exerts force.

square back adj. pertaining to a rim cabinet lock whose mounting flanges and case form the general shape of a square. stand alone adj. In reference to locks, An access control system that makes its own access decisions without communicating with a central controller. step pin n. a spool or mushroom pin that has had a portion of its end machined to a smaller diameter than the opposite end, typically used as a top pin to improve pick resistance by some manufacturers of high security cylinders. stop (of a door) n. the projecting portion of a doorframe upon that the door rests when closed. stop (of a key) n. the part of a key from which all cuts are indexed and that determines how far the key enters the keyway. stop works n. a button or toggle mechanism that prevents operation of a knob, lever or thumbpiece in a non bored lock. stop works button(s) n. a one or two piece stop works activator. store door function n. a lockset function in that: a) a deadbolt is operated by key from either side and a latch is operated by working trim from either side; or b) a deadlocking latch can be withdrawn by working trim from either side except when both sides are locked by key from either side. See also: lock functions. strike n. 1. generally a flat piece of metal that is mortised into a door jamb that contains two small holes for mounting and one larger hole to accept a lockset latch. Can also be slightly curved, as in a spring latch strike. 2. a device that keeps or holds the latch. 3. an electric device that keeps or holds the latch of a lockset until the keeper is released allowing the latch to move freely. electric strike. substitution code n. a code whose individual characters are converted to individual key cuts or combination numbers by means of a reference table. swing clear hinge n. a hinge that allows the door to swing far enough away from the jamb to fully clear the opening at 90 degrees open. switch lock n. 1. a lock that incorporates an electrical switch as an integral part of its construction. 2. a large padlock designed for use on railroad switches.

swivel spindle n. a two-piece spindle assembly whose two halves are designed to turn independently.

T-handle n. a T-shaped handle assembly that may be lockable.

TMK abbr. top master key. tailpiece n. an actuator attached to the rear of a cylinder, parallel to the plug, typically used on rim, keyin-knob, or special application cylinders. telescoping column n. a steering column adjustable for length. template n. a pattern used to mark cutout locations for hardware installation. See also: "boring jig". template hinge n. a hinge with dimensions, hole locations and tolerances that conform to ANSI® standard A156.7. theoretical key changes n. the total possible number of different combinations available for a specific cylinder or lock mechanism. threaded rose n. a rose with an internally threaded ferrule. See also: escutcheon. three point latch n. a self-latching device designed to latch a door at the top, bottom and edge. throat cut n. the cut made into a key to bypass a throat ward. throat ward n. an obstruction formed in a lock's case or horn at the point of key entry that prevents key rotation. throw n. the distance a bolt or latch projects from the faceplate or case of a lock in the extended position.

throw member n. an intermediate actuator that engages the rear of the plug to transfer motion to a cam, tailpiece or other actuator. thumbturn n. a small, generally T-shaped handle that, when turned, locks, unlocks, extends or retracts a bolt, such as on a deadbolt lock. thumb turn cylinder n. a cylinder with a turn knob rather than a keyway and tumbler mechanism. thumbpiece n. a generally flat, projecting latch actuator found above a grip handle and depressed by the thumb. tilt column n. a steering column design which permits vertical adjustment of the steering wheel. time delay n. and adj. a feature that prevents operation until a set amount of time has elapsed, activation normally begins when access, egress or other unlocking is desired. time lock n. a secondary device that prevents movement of a bolt or boltworks until a set amount of time has elapsed, the device is normally set or activated at the time of locking. time release adj. This is an electronic timer that follows a preprogrammed course of events such as unlocking a door and shunting an alarm point and then relocking the door and enabling the alarm point at predetermined times of the day or night without supervision. tip n. the portion of the key that enters the keyway first. toe (of a shackle) n. that part of the shackle that may be removed from the padlock body. toggle n. a pivoting one piece stop works activator. top jamb mount n. surface application of a door closer body directly to the frame face header. top of blade n. the bitted edge of a single bitted key. top pin n. a cylindrical shaped tumbler, usually flat on both ends and installed directly under the spring in the pin stack.

touch bar n. a type of exit device actuator with a paddle shape. 2. a remote door opener activator, typically electric or electronic, that facilitates handicap access. See also: exit device. touch pad n. 1. an exit device actuator with a paddle shape. 2. a remote door opener activator, typically electric or electronic, which facilitates handicap access. trim n. exposed components of a lockset or latchset that allow operation, enhance appearance or provide protection. trim panel n. the decorative and functional assembly which covers the inside surface of a vehicle door. triplex spindle n. a spindle with three wedge shaped bars that spread to grip the inside of the knob shank when the knob set screw is tightened. try-out key n. a manipulation key that is usually part of a set, used for a specific series, keyway and/or brand of lock. tubular key n. a key with a tubular blade; key cuts are made into the end of the blade, around its circumference. tubular key cylinder n. a cylinder whose tumblers are arranged in a circle that is operated by a tubular key. tubular lockset n. a bored lockset whose latch or bolt locking mechanism is contained in the compartment installed into the edge-bore. See also: "cylindrical lockset". tumbler n. a movable obstruction of varying size and configuration in a lock or cylinder that makes direct contact with the key or another tumbler and prevents an incorrect key or torque device from activating the lock or other mechanism. tumbler spring n. any spring that acts directly on a tumbler. turn disk n. a disk shaped component with a cam actuated by a thumb turn, normally used in a mortise lock

UL® abbr. Underwriters Laboratories®. An independent, not-for-profit organization which tests products in the interests of public safety.

UL Listed® adj. listed in a directory as having passed specific Underwriters Laboratories® testing. uncombinated adj. 1. of or pertaining to a cylinder that is or is to be supplied without keys, tumblers and springs. 2. of or pertaining to a lock, cylinder or key in that the combination has not been set.

Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS™) n. an electronic system in some General Motors (GM®) vehicles that uses a resistor pellet of varying value imbedded in a mechanical ignition key. vertical down (VD) adj. of or pertaining to a mounting orientation of a safe or vault lock such that the bolt projects downward. vertical linkage n. a metal rod that is attached at one end to the lock mechanism, or a portion thereof, and the other end to the lock lever, or a portion thereof, on virtually every make and model of vehicle manufactured up to the year 2001. It is also used on the outside handle and/or keyed lock of most vehicle doors. When the lock lever is pushed down or pulled up, the lock mechanism is locked or unlocked via the linkage. See also: "horizontal linkage". vertical up (VU) adj. of or pertaining to a mounting orientation of a safe or vault lock such that the bolt projects upward.

ward n. a usually stationary obstruction in a lock or cylinder that prevents the entry and/or operation of an incorrect key. ward cut n. a modification of a key that allows it to bypass a ward. warded adj. having one or more wards.

Warnock Hersey n. an independent testing laboratory.

wheel pack n. an assembly of combination wheels; typically found in safes. wheel puller n. a tool used to remove the steering wheel from a column in a vehicle. window bug n. an alarm system component designed to detect breaking glass. working trim n. lock or exit device trim that activates a mechanism.

yoke n. a component designed to secure cylinders or turn disks in both sides of a mortise lock by means of a single setscrew.

zero bitted adj. of or pertaining to a cylinder that is or is to be combinated to keys cut to the manufacturer’s reference number "0" bitting.