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HISTORY · Born in Kansas City, USA 1975 · Interested in fashion since early age · Made great efforts to became famous designer · After high school Jeremy attended Pratt Institute (fashion design) in New York City · After Pratt he moved to Paris · When he was not hired by any fashion company he started his own brand · First collection in 1997 · Middle market (affordable luxury) · Clothing, accessories · Creative director of Moschino
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PRODUCT Physical
Jeremy gets inspired by everything. That is why his collections differ with their theme. Yet, he does have the same kind of style in every collection. He uses outgoing colours and materials. And the fitting is very similar-fitted and loose.
Symbolic
Jeremy Scott likes a clear message. You can see that in the different print pattern he uses. But also in the different and bright colours.
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USER Functional
It could be very non-functional. This is not everyday clothing. It is more Pret-a-porter.
Emotional
If you wear one of his pieces, then it is safe to say that you are a confident person. Jeremy designs for people who are not afraid to stand out and express themselves.
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CULTURE Person
Jeremy Scott is an academic and funny person. He wants to put humor into the fashion world. He is a bit of a ‘Fashion Rebel’.
Organisation
Jeremy Scott has
his roots in America. You can see that easily in his designs and the print he uses.
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BRAND DNA • Unique, shocking designs • Likes to make people laugh • Humor, messages in collection
TARGET GROUP • Very wide (all ages, cultures, genders – if they feel comfortable in it) • Confident, fun, strong personalities • Affordable fashion “hunters”
INFLUENCE
Jeremy Scott has a lot of influence on contemporary design. You can see that by looking at other designers, does not matter if it is fashion, furniture, architecture etc. They are trying to put humor in their designs.
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SPRING/SUMMER 2016
FALL/WINTER 2016
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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SPRING/SUMMER 2016
FALL/WINTER 2016
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
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HISTORY • Gosha was born in Moscow, 1984 • Supported by Adrian Joffe (Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market president) • “Гоша Рубчинский” in Cyrillic - new trend of using Cyrillic • Focused on sportswear with elements of luxury, elegant style • Influence of rave culture, Rodchenko’s and Novikov’s art • Collaborations with sports brands like Adidas, Fila, Kappa, Vans etc.
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PRODUCT
Physical
Sportswear, that is sometimes mixed with touch of elegan t style. Designed for men oversize d. Brave use of colours. Often can be seen geometrical paths, stripes and patterns in colle ctions. High quality materials.
Symbolic
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Gosha wants to mix the cu ltures of English football fans, Germ an sportswear and Russian sk ate kids. He is trying to show to the wes tern countries some part of Russian history.
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USER Functional
Collections have a sporty soul, are made to everyday use as well as ready-to-wear.
Emotional
The collections reflect Rubchinskiy himself. Users should feel relaxed and comfortable in designer’s products. On top of that they are a part of Gosha’s world.
CULTURE Person
The brand Gosha Rubchinskiy is a way to express designer’s visions. His looks at the past and the present and show his observations via fashion.
Organisation
Gosha Rubchinskiy is strongly inspired by Russian culture, traditions which is very noticeable in his designs.
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BRAND DNA Gosha Rubchinskiy has a unique, colorful, odd but aesthetic collection inspired by Russia. He does not follow the rules made by western world of streetwear and fashion in general.
TARGET GROUP A new generation of European-Instagram culture, born after the communism era that is interested in the ‘present past’ or those who are interested in streetwear in general. Rubchinskiy keeps his products affordable for youths.
INFLUENCE
Rubchinkiy designs, with a distinctly Russian accent are breakthrough for the industry. The brand presents a unique take on streetwear that reflects proud patriotism to break prejudices about post- soviet generation. This thinking can inspire more countries to step into this new fashion game.
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FALL/WINTER 2017
SPRING/SUMMER 2017
SPRING/SUMMER 2018
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FALL/WINTER 2017
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SPRING/SUMMER 2018
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HISTORY • Established 1981- 1987 • Milano, Italy • Founder Ettore Sottsass • Group of likeminded designers • Art deco, pop art X modernism • Critized for not being functional • Colourful furniture described as “a shotgun wedding between Bauhaus and Fisher-Price” • High end furniture brand (prices depend on concrete product [180€-34 690€]) • Every type of furniture (sleeping, seating, tables, storage)
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PRODUCT Physical Memphis-Milano designed furniture on high level quality with playfulness and boldness. However, designs were not excepted by critics. Nowadays Memphis’ creations are appreciated and demanded. All of Memphis’ products are one-of-a-kind. Due to clashing colours, patterns and shapes. But material used was mainly plastic.
Symbolic
Memphis-Milano Design did not want to go with the flow. Designers valued their different views of the world and were proud of them enough to form them into actual furniture. A middle finger to the modernism and design norm.
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USER Functional
Strange shapes and bad ergonomic does not make for the most functional furniture. More like art than everyday furniture.
Emotional
The Memphis Group’s bold and playful designs make the user feel a lot positive or negative.
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CULTURE Person
The founder Ettore Sottsass was driven by innovation and playfulness just as the design group. Sottsass was a revolutionist designer that always went his own way.
Organisation
The Memphis Group was a new thinking organisation trying to make a change in design. Also started postmodern design movement and is important for history of design.
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BRAND DNA • • • • • •
Unique, playful, colourful, high quality furniture of many shapes Fun approach to design Products not so practical Does not follow rules Criticism did not influence work of the designers Stayed true to their roots without losing identity
TARGET GROUP • Art collectors or those that do not take life so seriously • Wealthy, fun and open minded people appreciating the value of design and product itself
INFLUENCE
Group has had a huge impact on contemporary art in all different forms. Their style is today known as postmodernism and its influence can be seen in architecture, fashion and art around the whole world. Great examples of this include the MTV logo, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao or Christian Dior’s FW11 couture collection.
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FIRST CHAIR
CARLTON
BEL AIR
DUBLIN
SUPER LAMP
OCEANIC
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FIRST CHAIR
CARLTON
BEL AIR
DUBLIN
SUPER LAMP
OCEANIC
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HISTORY • American streetwear brand founded in 1994, NYC • Founder: James Jebbia • Clothing, accessories • Mid market • Collaboriations with different brands (NIKE, Louis Vuitton) • Jebbia’s fascination by skateboarding world was a driving factor behind brand • 1st Supreme store ( New York City, 1994) • Jebbia’s own designs with Supreme logo is a success • Supreme - no symbolic meaning
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PRODUCT Physical
Supreme sells men clothing inspired by many factors. The apparel is loose fitted. Operating with a wide colour range, playful prints, patterns and materials. Prices vary like e.g. t-shirt with box logo (40$), leather jacket (1100$).
Symbolic
The logo is inspired by Barbara Kruger’s propaganda “I shop, therefore I am.” referring to consumption. Supreme sympathize with the idea proving it with providing limited amount of locally produced goods.
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USER Functional
The products are fashionable as well as functional. In every FW collection there is at least one coat, quilted jacket or puffer jacket of specific material that suits the season.
Emotional
Demand exceeds supply in consequence the added value is exclusivity that customer gets with purchasing the items. Users either identify themselves with the brand or with the people wearing the brand.
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CULTURE HY
Person
PE
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Supreme equals the founder and his preferences. The products reflect that well. Jebbia is passionate about art. He has invited a lot of artists to work with Supreme. The outcomes are for example art skateboards decks.
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Organisation
The brand provides quality apparel and reach a broad audience but still maintain the sense of exclusivity through a lower supply than what the market calls for. This keeps up the hype surrounding Supreme.
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BRAND DNA • • • • •
Concrete cultures influence Founder= brand Functional materials, wide range of colours, playful prints, logo Exclusivity Brand values
TARGET GROUP • Young people (18-25) • Sharing similar values • Determined, demanding, openminded, humorous
INFLUENCE
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Supreme as brand is loyal to its values. Apart from that brand provides stylish, functional apparel giving users pleasant feelings. However, the important fact is how Supreme proved that it is possible to build a strong brand by using a simple logo.
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FALL/WINTER 2014
SPRING/SUMMER 2015
FALL/WINTER 2015
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FALL/WINTER 2014
SPRING/SUMMER 2015
FALL/WINTER 2015
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SUPREME
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REFERENCES Supreme Article title: Supreme (brand) Website title: En.wikipedie.org URL: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supreme_(brand) Gleen O'Brien,(2009) James Jebbia is Supreme, website's name is interview avaliable at: http://www.interviewmagazine.com/ fashion/james-jebbia-is-supreme/#page3/ (Accessed at 26/02/09) Ty Schler, 2014 20 years of the Supreme Box Logo, website's name is Sneakhype, avaliable at http://sneakhype.com/more/clothing/2014/04/20-years-supreme-box-logo.html /(Acesses in 28/04/2014). Ross Wilson, 2017 Supreme's OG Store Manager on what the shop was like back in the day, Website's name is Highsnobility, avaliable at http://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/03/01/supreme-clothing-history-new-york /(01/03/2017) Supreme, 2014 Fall and winter collection, avaliable at http://www.supremenewyork.com/lookbook/20 /(accessed date 2014) Supreme, 2015 Summer and spring collection, avaliable at http://www.supremenewyork.com/lookbook/20 /(accessed date 2015) Supreme, 2015 Fall and winter collection, avaliable at http://www.supremenewyork.com/lookbook/20 /(accessed date 2015) Barbara Kruger, 1987 I shop therefor I am, avaliable at https://acca.melbourne/program/icons-barbara-kruger-i-shop-thereforei-am/
Gosha Anders Christian Madsen, 2017 russia with love: we meet gosha rubchinskiy and his gang, Website's name is i-D, avaliable at https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/j5mxwp/from-russia-with-love-we-meet-gosha-rubchinskiy-and-his-gang /(Accessed in 27/03/2017). Michalina Murawska, 2015 Gosha Rubchinskiy: sierp i młot w wersji cool? Website's name is Fashion post, avaliable at http:// fashionpost.pl/gosha-rubchinskiy-sierp-i-mlot-w-wersji-cool/ /(Acessed 14/09/15). Alec Leach, 2016 The Stories Behind Some of Gosha Rubchinskiy’s Best Graphics, website's name is Highnobiety, avaliable at http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/04/18/ gosha-rubchinskiy-graphics-meaning/ /(Accessed in 18/04/16). I-D, 2017 Inside Gosha Rubchinskiy’s Post-Soviet Generation(online video) Avaliable at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZLVXgHxqVI (Accessed in 31/07/2017) Alexander Fury, 2016 SPRING 2017 MENSWEAR, Website's name is vogue, avaliable at https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/gosha-rubchinskiy /(Accessed in 15/06/2016) Alec Leach, 2015 Why Gosha Rubchinskiy Is the Most Exciting Designer in Streetwear Right Now, avaliable at http://www. highsnobiety.com/2015/08/18/gosha-rubchinskiy/ /(Accessed in 18/08/2015) Steve Dool, 2016 Is Gosha Rubchinskiy Actually Any Good?, website's name is complex style, avaliable at http://www.complex. com/style/2016/06/is-gosha-rubchinskiy-good /(accessed in 16/06/2016)
Jeremy Scott Article: Jeremy Scott Website: En.wikipedie.org URL: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeremy_Scott Jeremy Scott the people's designer, 2015. FILM. Directed by Vlad Yudin. USA. Netflix. Maya Singer, 2017, SPRING 2018 READYTO-WEAR Jeremy Scott, website's name is vogue, avaliable at https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/jeremy-scott /( Accessed 09/09/17). Maya Singer, 2017 Spring RTW collection, avaliable at https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/jeremy-scott /(accessed 12/09/16) Maya Singer, 2015 Spring RTW collection, avaliable at https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/jeremy-scott /(Accessed date at 14/09/15) Luca Tombolini, 2016 Fall RTW collection, avaliable at https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/jeremy-scott/slideshow/collection#4
Memphis Memphis group, Avaliable at http://www.design-technology.org/memphis1.htm Bertrand Pellegrin, 2012 Collectors give '80s postmodernist design 2nd look, website's name is SFGATE, avaliable at http://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarden/article/Collectors-give-80s-postmodernist-design-2nd-look-2517937.php /( Accessed15/01/2012) Vox, 2017 The origin of the '80s aesthetic, avaliable at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCI8lPvr6SM /(Accessed in 26/06/17) Nancy Mitchell, 2016 A Brief History of Memphis, The Design Group that Defined the Look of the '80s, avaliable at http://www. apartmenttherapy.com/a-brief-history-of-memphis-the-design-group-that-defined-the-look-of-the-80s-226747 /( Accessed in 06/04/2016) Alice Rawsthorn, 2007 Love it or loathe it, Memphis style with its color and kitsch is back, website's name is The New York Times, avaliable at http://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/14/style/14iht-design17.1.7505218.html?_r=0 /(Accessed in 16/09/2007) Michele de Lucchi, 1983 First chair, avaliable at https://www.artsy.net/artwork/michele-de-lucchi-first-chair / (Accessed in 1983) Peter Shire, 1982 Bel Air Chair, avaliable at https://www.pamono.com/bel-air-armchair-by-peter-shire-formemphis-milano-1982-1 /(Accessed in 1982) Ettore Sottsass, 1981 Carltoon bookcase, avaliable at https://www.dezeen.com/2015/08/03/ettore-sottsass-memphis-group-carlton-storage-unit-tahiti-lamp-postmodernism/ /(Accessed in 1981)