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Influencers
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Folkloric Art
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Double Exposure
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Eastern Range
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Opal
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Wireframe
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Horror Stories
Themes
Vostochnaya Diapazon 3.
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Transparente Blurring Perceptions Soft 70’s
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Flipped Classics
Blended Narrative
“Nothing is original. Steal from anywhere that resonates with inspiration or fuels your imagination. Devour old films, new films, music, books, paintings, photographs, poems, dreams, random conversations, architecture, bridges, street signs, trees, clouds, bodies of water, light and shadows. Select only things to steal from that speak directly to your soul. If you do this, your work (and theft) will be authentic. Authenticity is invaluable; originality is non-existent. And don’t bother concealing your thievery - celebrate it if you feel like it. In any case, always remember what JeanLuc Godard said: “It’s not where you take things from - it’s where you take them to.”
SS/17
Importance of trends
5 Lifestyle trends can have an impact on how customers reach a business and can influence growth prospects. New trends can indicate new markets or open merchandise opportunity, but they can also introduce new methods that can lead you over a competition. By understanding where we are going and where we have come from we gain an understanding of deep external forces which can impact the industry.
IN FLUENCERS 3. THE NATURAL Vegan diets, gastro bars, chemical - free organic foods. Eco-friendly makeup, clothing, plastics and everything in between.
1. FLEXIBLE MINDSETS Coming out of a recession, people are looking to have fewer obligations and commitments.
2. BEST BASICS In a hectic world, people want to enjoy the basic things in life in a superior level. They take the time to select only the best, they pay but only for excellent quality.
5. 4. HUMANIZATION In a globalizing world, people want a human touch, a craftful handmade feel to things. They value well-being, transparency, spirituality, connections and customized experiences.
A COLORFUL LIFE Looking forward to a open society, embracing the unique and the creative, the bizzare and the unconventional, the scientific and the technological, subcultures and travel, becoming more playful, imaginative and storytelling.
T People who actually tell stories, don’t see themselves as storytellers. - Stephan Sagmeister
Themes
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Folkloric Art
Eastern Range
Vostochnaya Diapazon
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4.
Transparente
Blurring Perceptions 5.
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Soft 70’s
Double Exposure 7.
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9.
10.
Opal
Wireframe
Horror Stories
Flipped Classics
Folkloric Art
Tapestry Inspired by rich cultural and traditional craftsmanship, folkloric details emerge. Designers capture the essence of romantic patterns and embroideries, creating tactile artistry with ornate generous embellishments and opulent styling. Heavily encrusted in wonderfully dense embroidery, surfaces portray old world patterns and folkloric charm. In search of a vanished time, sourcing inspiration from antiquated tribes. Handcrafted illustrations and embroidery reflect the sense of beauty and belonging that deep cultural connections can bring. By hoarding and sourcing inspiration from all four corners of the Earth, the design world explores off-beaten tracks. In a whirlwind of change, this sees cultures uniting in harmony in the precious spirit of collaboration.
Zapotec Weaving Mexico, 500 BC Mixtec, Zapotec, Aztec and Mayan Indians.
Ibiza Markets Spain, Bronze Age (1300-700 BCE) Straubing, Adlerberg and Hatvan cultures.
Umayyad Conquest of Hispania Granada, Spain, 711 BC Moors from Mazara Sicily, Morocco and Sub-Saharan
Tiraz Cloth Middle East, Abbasid and Fatimid periods (750-1258) Islamic textiles from Egypt, Turkey and Persia.
Inca Textiles Peru, 900 AD
Art
Pre-Inca Chimu Indians.
Eastern Range
A renewed interest in the original beauty and intensity of Russian folk costume emerges. Quilted design and decorative embroideries return from the forgotten age, fur and faux fur remain important materials. Russian-style cossacks and headwear look luxurious. Perfect for keeping harsh winter temperatures at bay, fur Cossack hats balance function with on-trend flair. Russian tapestries and traditional folklore fabrics inspire this highly decorative print trend. Heavily encrusted prints and dense embroideries with detailed border prints appear on hemlines and scarves. Portraying old-world patterns and charm incorporating bold florals and flourishes in deep red, green and electric blue, set against dark grounds. Rich with history and a sense of place, designs rustle up remnants of former times, tales and traditions. Designers set forth in search of tradition, tracing its origins and history, bringing many different meanings and motifs to the surface.
Babushka Russia
Textiles of Old Russia Vologda Riazan and Nizhnii regions
Importance of the grandmother in the Russian household.
Before soviet modernization, 19th and 20th century.
Byzantine Empire Eastern Empire, 5 AD Russia carried Byzantine traditions into the 18th century.
The Olympics Sochi, Russia, 2014 Opening the gates to globalization and modernization.
Kokoshnik Old Slavic 10-12th century Traditional head-dresses worn by maidens.
Russian Military Moscow, Russia
Range
Valentin Yudashkin designs a modern uniform with aquamarine colors.
Transparente
Fabric blocking gets a delicate, denimcentric update with sheer fabrics added to create a juxtaposition of beading textures. Large scale “cutout” panels on bottoms create the illusion of exposure. A play on the`90s trend, while ultra-skinny silhouettes give a sophisticated twist. Sheer sleeves or chiffon panels lend an ultra feminine appeal to tops. Ladylike sheaths and shifts look sensuous in sheer fabrics. Taffeta or tulle emphasize a feminine fitand-flare shape, while fluid organza or chiffon exudes soignée elegance in bodyskimming silhouettes. Key fabrics such as see-through chiffons and organzas, mesh and loose openwork knits, lace play part in panelling across hemlines, waistlines, sleeves and yokes. Sheer/opaque fabrics also take on a directional tailored, sporty look. Layered layered dresses, architectural tailored dresses and separates are partnered with tones of white created from translucent layers and tonal stripes, white-on-white palettes.
Silk Road East and West Connection, 206 BC Established during the Han Dynasty by monks and nomads.
Ancient Greeks Greece, 146 B.C.E Developed dresses called Ionic Chiton. Made of fine wool, almost transparent.
The Sari India, 3000 B.C.E Drapped dress from one single fabric, breathable and flowing, has intricate detail.
Marie Antoinette France, 1755-1793 Inspired women from her portraits to wear fashionable revealing dresses.
Peek A Boob Worldwide 2008
nte
Empowering women to “free the nipple�, to dress women, rather than little girls.
Blurring Perceptions
Blurring the lines between woman and man – androgynous fashion is leaning towards construction and deconstruction, the mix of sportswear with straight lined sihouettes. Transgender fashion brings simple materials, simple lines, and contemporary patterns and textiles constructed to be used by both genders. Colors are either black and white or very animated. The goal in this instance is to find a balance between simplicity and aesthetics for everyday use. Full suits, oversized cuts, the “skort.”, boxy cuts and longer lengths to conceal the body. In many ways, these act to cover up the secondary sex characteristics most people have including leg hair, breasts, and defined musculature. While removing a certain amount of individuality, this serves to even the playing field, so to speak. This trend is moving beyond symbolising its wearers’ identity or sexuality, and will become mainstream as more of a look for both on the catwalk and the high street. Designers seek the acceptance of this trend becoming more recognized as a movement parallel to the societal acceptance of breaking the traditional rules of gender binaries.
Gender Bender International Gay Rights USA With the ability for homosexuals to be married, our society is opening up to these posibilities.
Women and Men are embrasing fashion pieces that transend gender.
Tomboy Europe, 1590’s Defying gender roles tolerated in young girls.
Modernisvvm 19th century Movement from Western society which relies on selfconciousness, experimentation and social proressiveness.
Marlene Dietrich 1930’s-50’s
Cinema USA and International Starting to explore characters that change gender, choose to live openly has homosexuals and embrase freedom of sexuality.
Perceptions
An icon, wore menswear and masculine pieces to create a distictly androgynous look.
Soft 70’s
Styling is more minimal than in other 1970s-inspired trends –the references are clear but subtle, making them more commercial and accessible. The iconic styling of the era is refined to remove exaggerated details, emerging pared-back and modernised. Pair suede button-through skirts or wide-leg culottes with matching crop-tops or crisp white blouses with a desert road-trip vibe. Denim, suede, retro print and colour, all reworked to live in a contemporary context. This trend brings new key items to the fore such as flared jeans, denim culottes, peasant blouses, the trucker jacket and the A-line miniskirt are reworked. Warm neutrals and spice tones underpin the palette, with sun-baked shades of coral, burnt orange and golden yellow providing pops of colour. Fringing, tassel details, crochet and lace add a handcrafted feel. Designers look back to give collections a nostaligic revival which inspires street style that focuses on sophistication.
Navy Uniform USA, 17th century Originally a functional design, during the 1960’s those who didn’t conform wore old military uniforms, the counterculture spun the popularity of bell bottoms.
Yves Saint Laurent Paris/NYC 1960’s Sent trousers-suits and jumpsuits down the runway.
Disco NYC, 1970’s Spawned fashion craze for young people to show off the body such as ‘hotpants’, bodysuits and platform shoes.
Bianca Jagger England/ USA, 1970’s A muse for fashion designers and artists like Andy Warhol, her timeless style influences fashion today.
Crochet Arabia, 16th century Spreaded eastward through trade routes to Mediterranean countries.
Blondie New York, 1970’s
70’s
Staple for contrasting the pretty with the tough, 1940’s dresses with leather jackets. Her modern twist traslates to today.
Double Exposure
Ghostly layers of transparent imagery and photographic double-exposures create new graphic scenarios out of old snapshots and memories - combining nostalgia with a sharp modern twist. This trend is influenced by double-exposure photography. Influenced by the growing the use of cinematography of which embrace the look for their main title sequences or their music videos. Most of the visuals embrace doublemoody landscapes and urban surroundings with the delicate silhouette of the human figure.
Music Videos 2015
Double Exposure Europe 1900’s
Music artists such as Taylor Swift’s - Style video and Dye’s - She’s Bad video.
Early mistake caused by time-consuming exposures which led to artistic exploration.
Visual Emotion Design tactic to use nostalgia and the concept of memory in design culture and artifacts. Creating a sentimental longing for the past, for a period or for a place.
Instagram San Francisco, USA, 2010
Exposure
Millenials thirst for nostalgia that unlimited digital imagery can’t capture.
Opal
Regarded as a futuristic trend, its colours are considered to be digitalized and surreal, reflecting various colours when light is illuminated. These fabrics will be a major street style sample, where metallics colide with bright colours. This trend will emphasize holographic pearlescent, iridescent, ethereal and glowing colours such as skylight, shadow lime, pool blue, orchid bloom, and sharp green. These colours interact closely with shapes revealing volumes, highlighting or contradicting cuts. It plays with the emotions of the unknown, mysterious futurism, interactivity and space-like qualities. Opal lends itself to be played with and explored encouraging designers to push the limits of interactivity with textile design. Iridescence and glitter effects are key here, a trend solely for the bold and the young-spirited.
Northern Lights Northern Hemisphere Collisions between electrical particles from the sun, create natural wonder.
Music Festivals USA, 2000 Featuring the rise of electronic music and new developments in stage designs.
Fiber Optic Fabric USA, 2011 Singers and the catwalk has become more luminous.
Glitch Art 1980 European Trend Today this glittering glitch art is being experimented on motion and fabric effects.
Wire Frame
Reinventing traditional techniques by integrating wireframe design and 3D printing. Fusing old technique with future processes, technology can be used creatively to reinvent and enhance traditional craft. Despite being complex in form, coded design can be easily shared, reproduced and customised. Skilled craftsmanship can now be re-imagined with added intricacy and digital opulence using computeraided design. Complex decorative surfaces and metallic finishes see the traditional codes of luxury translated by technology. Computer manipulation creates an illusion of frozen movement in 3D objects by distorting shapes. Cutouts are key sleek with meticulous designs and inventive placement. Contoured slices are used to create ribcagelike harnesses, while geometric incisions add graphic positive-negative pattern to pants, skirts and tops. Leather, pleather or neoprene ensure that unfinished edges remain clean and sharp. Primary colours are used to define the negative space.
Jordis Laarman Lab Netherlands, 2004-2015 Experimental playground to study and shape the future with upcoming technology for 3D printing.
3D Art UK, 2015 Linlin & Pierre-Yves Jacques create a series of pieces around nature.
3D Printing Japan, 1980’s Developed by Dr. Kodama. In 2014, the first 3D Metal printer is available for purchase.
Laser Cut Technology USA, 1965
frame
Developed by Western Electric Engineering Research Center for AT&T, originally used to drill holes in diamonds.
Horror Stories
Design inches ever closer to the dark side, beguiled by the haunting beauty of horror and dark fairytales. Gothic horror develop hints of dark brooding romance, gothic and even Latino overtones. Emphasizing macabre storytelling with layer upon layer of black and contrasting fabric mixes. Black & monochrome tones are key on modern proportions. Key motifs are crosses and skeletal bones. All-black outsized silhouettes deliver skirts and wraps over pants and elongated tops for an unkempt styling look. Our society is interested in telling stories, we explore aspects of oppositional forces - the positive and negative while experimenting with control. Using visual references for monsters and characters, investigating science, the grotesque, gothic literature and science fiction we move towards dark narratives. Here we see the usage of Frankenstein (sci fi) and Vamperistic (loss of innocence) concepts of shadows, matte finishes, dark colors, cloak shapes, over layering, and pattern blocked shapes in fashion. Emerginging from our pop culture facination of dark fairytales, gothic literature, pagan ritualities and strong characters which still influence us today.
Alfred Hitchcock UK/USA 1940’s Inventor of modern horror,shaper of an entire culture of popular film. His take on modern horror and master -overhead shots influence artistry today.
Dark Characters USA, 2014 Exploring the darker side of characters in narratives of pop culture.
Gothic Literature and Dark Fairytales England/ USA, 1800 -1970’s Attempts to explore the innermost recesses of ourselves and society, creating “pleasing terror” by considering elements of human psychology and the supernatural.
Goya - Caprichos Spain, 1799
Stories
Etched album of prints ,stories of Spanish superstition and dark humor.
Flipped Classics
Features decorative styles that are reconfigured to be given new meaning. The blending of art and fashion, of common objects and giving them fashion utility. The result is familiar but new, recycling images, repurposing them into other media. Features are either meant to disturb the garment or become slightly surrealistic: merging the past with the future. Classic materials are challenged by creating exaggeration. Surrealism, parallel realities, the past with the future merge by disturbing the perception of space and control. This trend also lends itself to celebrate history by putting humor into pop culture and pop art. Designers play with pattern recognition, gestalt psychology and unusual bright colors and shapes in their fashion pieces.
Surrealism France, 1920’s Aims to “resolve the previously contradictory conditions of dream and reality”. Avant-garde art that sought to release creative potential of the uncounscious mind through juxataposition of images.
Pop Art UK, 1950’s
Elsa Schiaparelli Paris, France, 1920’s Pioneer in implementing the surrealist movement into her fashion design.
Presents a challenge to fine art traditions by including imagery from popular culture such as advertising, news, comic books, mundane objects and celebrities.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Paris, France, 1965 - Present
Classics
Uses iconoclastic and avant-garde mixes into his fashion with bold crosses of design, poetry, music, art and film and theather into his contemporary pieces.