Southern
YO U R L O C A L’ S G U I D E T O A L L P O I N T S S O U T H
Four-pawed vacationers are welcome here. FLAGLER BEACH, FLORIDA
Laid-back Beach Towns From North Carolina to Texas, find sand and sea in places where “formal attire” means your best pair of flip-flops
by PAULA DISBROWE AND VALERIE LUESSE ~ photographs by ROBBIE CAPONETTO
JUNE 2016
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OCRACOKE VILLAGE Explore this historic North Carolina community, which has some of the most spectacular and serene beaches in the South
YO U ’ L L N E E D A B OAT to reach this tiny, unincorporated enclave on a sliver of sand that shares its name. Ocracoke Island is a distinctive link in the chain of dramatic shores known as the Outer Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Banks. About 16 miles long, Ocracoke is Both Ocracoke Island and its village separated from the mainland by Pamlico are steeped in maritime history, from Sound; bookended by inlets; and washed Blackbeard and his crew of wily pirates with big Atlantic surf on its Eastern shore. who hid out in local inlets to the U.S. The widest part of the island is home Lifesaving Service, to the only development a precursor to the there—a bustling little U.S. Coast Guard. sound-side village with Raleigh People don’t come fewer than 1,000 year-round to this remote and residents. It wraps around NORTH CAROLINA singular place for Silver Lake, where ferries Ocracoke Village roller coasters and and a flotilla of summertime Wilmington water parks. They boaters come to dock. But come for the real the bustling downtown beach thrills: tall is just a short hop away ATLANTIC OCEAN dunes, big surf, and from miles and miles of Charleston brisk winds. unspoiled beaches on the 68
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TOP LEFT: In this maritime village, life centers around water. ABOVE: Lowcountry “Purloo” from Dajio in Ocracoke Village
Getting Here
Follow bridge crossings from the mainland to Roanoke Island and then to Bodie Island on the Outer Banks. Cruise scenic State 12 to Hatteras, and hop on a free 60-minute ferry ride to Ocracoke. (Expect long waits during peak hours.) Or make advance reservations (and arrive early) for the ferry directly to Ocracoke from Swan Quarter (rates from $1; 2 hours, 40 minutes) or Cedar Island (rates from $1; 2 hours, 15 minutes). ncdot.gov/ferry
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“People don’t come to this remote and singular place for roller coasters and water parks.”
Where To Stay
Lodging is all local—and full of character. The Castle Bed and Breakfast has 11 rooms and family-friendly villas (summer rates from $189; thecastlebb.com). Request a harbor view at the Ocracoke Harbor Inn, which rents basic rooms and suites, as well as six cottages (summer rates from $120 with complimentary boat docking and bike rentals; ocracokeharborinn.com). Also on the harbor side are the Captain’s Landing Hotel Suites (summer rates from $280/night and $1,400/week; thecaptains landing.com). ocracokevillage.com
Where To Eat
SmacNally’s Waterfront Bar & Grill is the go-to place for casual food with a 70
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view (smacnallys.com). With its Southern and Creole menu, The Flying Melon Café draws a crowd for dinner and brunch (252/928-2533). The sprawling Howard’s Pub has been a favorite gathering spot for years (howardspub.com). Locals and regulars also swear by the wine-and-beer tastings on an outdoor deck at Zillie’s Island Pantry (zillies.com) and fresh dishes at Dajio Restaurant (dajiorestaurant.com).
Most Iconic Landmark
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Castle Bed and Breakfast is one of Ocracoke Village’s most historic and charming landmarks; Locals love the fresh shrimp at SmacNally’s; Dine alfresco on the breezy deck of Zillie’s Island Pantry.
Best Outdoor Adventure
phone reception can be spotty. If you’d prefer mainland access, take a day trip to Ocracoke from one of the hotels and rentals on Bodie Island (Hampton Inn & Suites Outer Banks Corolla, summer rates from $319, obxbeachhotel.com; Sanderling Resort in Duck, summer rates from $315, sanderling-resort.com; Twiddy & Company Realtors beach houses, twiddy.com).
Ocracoke’s 1823 lighthouse, the secondoldest functioning lighthouse in the United States, isn’t open for climbing, but it makes a great photo op. Kayak, paddleboard, bike, or go offroading on the island. surfocracoke.com; ocracoke4X4rentals.com; theslushystand.com
Insider’s Tip
Many places don’t accept American Express, and larger establishments might close November through March. Cell
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“We have more grounds than rooms,” says Marti Leavines Bielefeldt, owner of the bohemian Si Como No Inn.
FLAGLER BEACH With its vintage pier and ocean-side main drag, this cool little town gives a flashback to Old Florida
“ I F I R S T S AW Flagler beach from the saddle of a motorcycle in 1971, and I just fell in love with it,” says Frank Gromling, a conservationist and owner of Flagler’s Ocean Art Gallery and Ocean Publishing. This 7-mile stretch of cinnamon sand fronting the Atlantic Ocean has no condo towers or sprawling resorts. Anchored by State A1A and an 800-foot-long pier built in 1927, this town makes you feel like popping the top on a 1962 T-bird and
of us and the Matanzas River—a beautiful cruising down the strip with The Beach channel to the Atlantic Intracoastal Boys blaring from your analog radio. Waterway—right behind us.” You just know there’s a place in town Flagler Beach is the kind of place where you can by a colorful T-shirt with where locals never lose their sense of a palm tree airbrushed on it. wonder for the spectacular expanse of “There’s so much community love water that defines them. “I have lived on here that it’s almost unreal,” says Marti the Atlantic since I was Leavines Bielefeldt, who 4 years old,” says owns the “five-star and Jacksonville Gromling, who still four-paw” Si Como No marvels at the way Inn. “Our beaches are Flagler Beach this powerful ocean lenient—they allow fires Orlando ATLANTIC keeps reinventing its and pets in many areas. OCEAN own coastline. “You As a community, we’re Tampa could come to this always doing things to FLORIDA beach every day—and bring people here, like it would be different the First Friday celebraevery day. I’m really tions downtown. We Miami thankful for that.” have the ocean in front JUNE 2016
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Where To Stay
Lodging on Flagler Beach tends toward small, locally owned properties. Amiable pups can ditch their leashes on the grounds of the eight-room Si Como No Inn, which rents paddling and beach equipment and also offers a tiki-style, outdoor community kitchen (rates from $125; sicomonoinn.com). At The White Orchid, an inn and spa just across State A1A from the beach, such amenities as a full breakfast, afternoon wine and appetizers, beach gear, bikes, and internet are included with your room (rates from $139 on weeknights and $169 on weekends). Tip: The Balcony Suite is the best room in the house (rates from $249). whiteorchidinn.com
Where To Eat
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Pick a spot by the pier and
you can play, relax, and sometimes surf; Co-owner Haley Kirk of VESSEL Sandwich Co.; The Skip Burger from Turtle Shack Café; Flagler Fish Company has local seafood on the menu and for sale at the counter.
Try Oceanside Beach Bar & Grill for an eclectic menu with an Atlantic view (oceansideflagler.com); VESSEL Sandwich Co. (vesselsandwichco.com) for gourmet sandwiches and salads; Turtle Shack Café (turtleshackfb.com) for fresh seafood and other local fare; or the Flagler Fish Company (flaglerfishcompany.com), a farm-totable restaurant and market. Enjoy discounted drinks and snacks during the daily Funky Hour at Funky Pelican (funkypelican.com), or have a few scoops of a favorite beach treat at The Waffle Cone (thewafflecone.com).
Most Iconic Landmark
You can’t miss the vintage A-frame entrance to the 88-year-old Flagler Beach Municipal Pier. (For a schedule of fees and hours, visit cityofflaglerbeach.com/thepier.)
Best Daytime Excursions
Go gallery shopping at Ocean Art Gallery (flagleroceanartgallery.oceanpublishing.org) and “Gola”—the Gallery of Local Art (i84338.wix.com/gola). If you’re interested in an outdoor adventure, take a guided kayak tour with Ripple Effect Ecotours (rippleeffectecotours.com) or spend the afternoon horseback riding at the Florida Agricultural Museum (myagmuseum.com). 76
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LEFT: The village-style development Cinnamon
Shore lets you live like a local while you’re on vacation. BELOW: The Seared Ahi Tuna is a favorite at Trout Street Bar & Grill.
Austin San Antonio
PORT ARANSAS There are two words for this authentic, no-rules coastal town where locals have been known to surf the wakes of oil tankers: totally Texas
I F W E H I T T H E R OA D early enough, we can get there in time to eat steamed shrimp and crab claws for lunch. That’s the reason why so many Texans love Port Aransas. Though this friendly, old-school beach town is just three or four hours from Austin, Houston, and San Antonio, “Port A,” as locals call it, feels like another world. 78
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TEXAS
Kenny Braun (kennybraun.com) captured the area’s wave-worshipping culture in his recent book, Surf Texas. “For me, Port A represents the perfect Texas Gulf Coast town,” he says. “It’s developed enough to have all the creature comforts but retains a laid-back atmosphere Houston and small-town vibe that’s unpretentious and timeless.”
A short ferry ride Where To Stay across Aransas Pass kicks About 5 miles from downPort Aransas off the adventure and town is Cinnamon Shore, a Corpus connects visitors to 18 seaside development where Christi GULF OF miles of uninterrupted you can settle into your own MEXICO beach, spectacular private bungalow or stylish fishing, and casual condo and enjoy the lovely restaurants where flip-flops are welcome pool, complete with a bar and cafe and and the seafood on your plate was likely access to a less-crowded beach (rates caught that morning. for condos from $250, 4-night minimum; Granted, Port A has tamer waves than rates for beach homes from $550, 5-night the South’s storied surf cities on the minimum; cinnamonshore.com). Atlantic Coast, but it’s still a mecca for surfers and other outdoor adventurers, Where To Eat with kayaks, paddleboards, bikes, and Locals love Venetian Hot Plate, a lively golf carts as the preferred modes of Italian restaurant owned by a couple transportation around town. Austinfrom Venice. Pssst: They serve a lifebased photographer and longtime surfer changing lasagna every Saturday, but
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Shop for fashionable surf and beach gear at Sirena Water Wear; Take a road trip to Corpus Christi, and explore the history of the Lone Star State’s surfing; Take a lesson at Morgan Faulkner’s Texas Surf Camps.
you’ll need to call that morning to order it in advance (venetian hotplate.com). With a giant shark suspended over its entrance, Moby Dick’s Restaurant is a quintessential beach dive known for potent Bloody Marys, oysters on the half shell, crispy fried fish, and an over-the-top, pirate-themed gift shop (mobydicksporta.com). Don’t miss the patio at The Phoenix Restaurant and Bar in the heart of Port A (361/749-9277); Trout Street Bar & Grill on the marina (tsbag.com); and family-owned Winton’s Island Candy (wintonscandies.com).
Where the Locals Shop
When Tracy Davis moved to Port A, she quickly noticed a dearth of flattering,
“Port A has a certain outlaw vibe that the locals live by and visitors want to experience.” 80
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Look for celebrity signatures—including one by FDR, namesake of the hotel’s Roosevelt’s restaurant—on the tarpon scales covering a wall in the lobby. (Rates from $89; thetarponinn.com)
Best Spot To Catch a Swell
functional board shorts. Her SeaLegs™ ($92)—lightweight, quick-drying shorts with a handy pocket configuration—led Davis and business partner Kimberly Rucker to launch Sirena Water Wear and Sirena Outfitters (sirenawaterwear.com).
Horace Caldwell Pier is ground zero for surfing, and it’s also at the center of Port A’s rowdiest beach fun. Morgan Faulkner’s Texas Surf Camps offer both group and private lessons for would-be surfers of all ages. “We have gentle and consistent waves year-round and a cool island culture that slows down but never stops,” says Faulkner, one of the bestknown surfers in Texas. “Port A has a certain outlaw vibe that the locals live by and visitors want to experience.” (Private lessons from $45 for a one-hour session; equipment included; texassurfcamps.com)
Most Iconic Landmark
Insider’s Tip
Built in 1886 and later rebuilt following a fire, a hurricane, and a tidal wave, The Tarpon Inn downtown is just blocks from the beach. Its 24 rooms (with no televisions) open onto a shady porch with rocking chairs and ceiling fans.
Pack a cooler to buy fresh seafood. “The Polly Anna shrimpboat is docked at the harbor near the ferry landing,” says Tracy Davis. “You can buy fresh shrimp at great prices right from the boat, which returns from shrimping around 9 a.m.”