JogjaMag October 2013 by Mika Guritno

FREE Oct 2013

ENGLISH Your Guide to Discovering Jogja

#16

The Royal Javanese Wedding p. 8 the Guardian of the mountain p. 24 What’s Happening this month p.28

MEET MERBABU MERAPI’S SILENT SISTER p. 5

TOP 10 EVENTS THIS MONTH

TOURIST DIRECTORY & MAPS

Over 1500 local business listings www.jogjabagus.com

Contents

EDITOR’S NOTE The last royal wedding of this generation for the Sultan’s family takes the stage this month, and we are excited to bring you a special feature on Javanese ceremony, as well as letting you know where to go to watch the princess parade. In honor of the Merapi explosion in 2010, we introduce you to the successor to one of the most spiritually influential men in the area. Meanwhile, if you are tired of the noisy streets, we let you know how to soak up fabulous vistas from the top of Mount Merbabu. Welcome to Jogja, and we’re glad you’re still here - a magazine of this quality would not be possible without the support of the businesses, expats, tourists, students, and friends in our fair city. See you next month, Sarah Herz

JOGJAMAG STAFF FOUNDER & EDITOR CO-EDITOR CONTENT MANAGER STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHER GRAPHIC DESIGNER CUSTOMER SERVICE MARKETING CONTRIBUTORS Cover Photo Copyright of:

Sylvain Leroy Erik W. Jorgensen Sarah Herz Anna Miranti Deti Lucara Mika Guritno Cecilia Morlacchi Mika Guritno Nining Hendro Wijanarko Patrick Vanhoebrouck Moko Pramusanto Sylvain Leroy

PTPMA. Mindo Jl. Suryodiningratan Griya Suryo Asri 2, No. A2 Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 372971

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

08 14

Meet Merbabu: Merapi’s Silent Sister

INSPIRING JOGJA

The Ceremony of a Lifetime

STREET FOOD

May it Bring Her Fortune

JAVANESE WISDOM

The Key to Success is a Good Heart

UNDERGROUND JOGJA Onthel Charm

18 22

ADVERTORIAL

Purawisata and Gazebo Garden Resto

JAVANESE HEALTH SECRET Kelor - The Power Plant

ACTIVE JOGJA Beat the Heat

PORTRAIT OF JOGJA

The Guardian of the Mountain

26 30

INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH

Inside the Sultan’s Kitchen - Bale Raos GM

TOP 10 EVENTS

What’s Happening in this month

TOURIST DIRECTORY

05 12 16 20 24 28

Find what you’re looking for

JOGJA MAPS

City Map, Jl. Prawirotaman & Jl. Sosrowijayan Contact: 0274 372971 (eng) 08562662373 (Ind) cso@jogjastar.com

JogjaMag @jogjamag jogjamag.com

Previous Editions

Destination

restaurant - travel - guesthouse fair trade shop - yoga studio indonesian and world kitchen friday night jazz alternative tours and courses contemporary art exhibitions fair trade shop | yoga classes open daily from 7.30 am

jalan prawirotaman 30, jogjakarta, java, indonesia ph +62 274 38 65 57

www.viaviajogja.com | www.viaviacafe.com

Destination of the month

MEET MERBABU Merapiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Silent Sister

you can choose to enter from either the north, at Thekelan, or from the south, at Selo - the same starting point as treks up Mount Merapi. From the north it can be roughly a 7 - 9 hour climb, gradually going up the entire way, and cresting the top with glorious views on of Merapi on the other side. The faster approach, though more difficult, is up the southern slope. Passing through an agricultural area, and into the forest, the climb in altitude is much more abrupt, with with a strenuous hiking time of 5 - 6 hours. But once you have passed through the clouds and are above the treeline you will have views of Merapi and the surrounding peaks to help distract you from the effort of going up, and up, and up. It is possible to book guides for either trek at any kiosk that offers Merapi tours. These guides are essential, many hikers have lost their way along the thin paths, and will help carry your supplies, including food, water, tent, sleeping gear (all available for rent), as well as help time your trip so that you watch dawn break over Java from one of her highest points. For groups of three or more expect to hire at least two guides. When planning your next adventure, keep this in mind - while Merapi is magical, it is easier to appreciate her beauty just one quiet mountain away. 5

Photo: Sylvain Leroy

radling the central axis of the Island of Java, the extinct Merbabu strato-volcano looms out behind the active and more famous Merapi volcano, as seen from the Yogyakarta side. About a hundred meters higher than its southern neighbor, a trip to its peak will offer the hiker breathtaking panoramic views of not only Mount Merapi but indeed of all other Central Javanese peaks. On a clear day, both Southern and Northern coastlines of the island are visible. Literal coast to coast views, from one beautiful peak. Closer around the mountain are a cragged and irregularly shaped landscape of hills, old volcanic ridges and crater lakes clearly showing the complex terrain of the central Javanese volcanic range. Mount Merbabu has well-preserved lush forests on its lower slopes, which still offer residence to a variety of wildlife elsewhere absent in Java, such as panthers, apes and deer. Highly fertile soil and constant supply of spring-water both in surface and underground provide the residents of its slopes with abundant yields of legumes and vegetables which do not grow at lower altitudes in Java (such as broccoli). Water from both Merbabu and Merapi drain to the southern plains and form most of the riverbasins of Solo, Yogyakarta and Magelang districts. To experience this mountain climb for yourself,

Words: Sarah Herz & Patrick Vanhoebrouck

Indonesian Tourist Guides Association: Merapi Guide Club Mr Surato / Sheby Tel. +62 856 4065 7456 / +62 878 3509 0433 surotosheby@ymail.com Blumgansari RT 05 TW 06, Samiran, Selo (57363) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Boyolali, Central Java

Scan me for directions to Merbabu Mountain

Inspiring jogja

The

ROYAL JAVANESE WEDDING The Ceremony of Lifetime

Photo: Courtesy of Reuters / Baewiharta & Info Kota Jogja

symbolic meaning, and accompanied with Javanese/Islamic prayers recited continuously in the hearts of attendees. This magical charm brings meaning to the ceremony far beyond the fanfare, making it grand and sacred (see the timeline for the series of events). In the Javanese tradition, there are several stages of human life, namely: birth, puberty, marriage, and death. The Public Relation’s manager of the Kraton KRT Jatiningrat, who is a cousin of Sultan, explains that each new stage brings new responsibilities and consequences. Therefore, in the beginning of each new phase, the Javanese always hold a traditional ceremony and pray to smooth the journey of life, “Javanese believe that marriage is the pinnacle stage of human life, hence Javanese always take it seriously,” Jatiningrat says. This seriousness is evidenced by the total commitment of all parties involved in the wedding. For example, before the make-up artists do the work, they fast at least one day before the wedding. And while applying cosmetics on the bride’s face, they pray in their hearts. “The real Javanese makeup artist possess a strong spiritual character, thus they are able to give a magical touch to the bride’s appearance and transform them

Words: Deti Lucara

Thousands of people from Jogjakarta and the surrounding area will flow into the streets this month to celebrate the royal wedding of the fourth daughter of Jojga’s Sultan. Princess Nurabra Juwita (Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Hayu) will marry Angger Pribadi Prabowo (Kanjeng Pangeran Haryo Notonegoro) on October 22nd. The princess will be the last of the Sultan’s five daughters to marry, and it is absolutely a not-to-be-missed event. A total of 400 soldiers are deployed to accompany the parade of the best horse-drawn carriages, maintained over generations, which will bring the royal bride and the royal family to the reception venue located in the Kepatihan building on Jl. Malioboro. Some of the legendary carriages that will be in the procession are Kyai Jetayu, Kyai Wimana Putra, Kyai Mandra Juwala, among many others. The bride will ride on the spectacular Kyai Jongwiyat, an open carriage drawn by four white horses, and a legacy of Sultan VII. Preparation for this historic day will begin long before joyful cheers of the people fill the air along the royal parade route. Each carriage is wrapped beautifully in Javanese ambience, equipped with flowers, offerings, and ceremonial instruments that are rich with

into a beautifully stunning Prince and Princess,” Jatiningrat says. Another fellow spiritual character is a ‘pawang hujan’ or rain handler. The handler is engaged to prevent rain from falling during the three days of celebration. It is believed that the sacredness of the royal wedding is mirrored in the presence of Sultan’s wife from the unseen world, Nyi Roro Kidul. Nyi Roro Kidul is a ruling Queen of the South Seas and in honor of a sacred pact with Sultan I, every Sultan of Jogjakarta should

marry her, despite the fact that marriage between two different dimensions will never produce an heir. The presence of Nyi Roro Kidul is sometimes marked by a little hurricane, as happened at the first daughter’s wedding, GKR Pembayun, in 2002. “Nevertheless, the absence of wind gusts doesn’t mean she doesn’t come. Sultan is the only one who can feel and see the presence of this beautiful Queen,” Jatiningrat says, leaving the mysterious power surrounding the Sultan as a topic for another day.

TIMELINE The Past Words: Deti Lucara

June 20, 2013 - The Proposal Ceremony Angger Pribadi, with his family, came to the Kraton to meet the royal family, in order to propose to the Princess Nurabra Juwita.

August 12, 2013 - Granting the New Titles Ceremony

Photo: Courtesy of Reuters / Baewiharta & Info Kota Jogja

In Javanese royal tradition, before the Sultan’s child marries, the Sultan will grant new names or titles for the bride and groom as a sign that they are no longer single. The bride, Nurabra Juwita received a new name, Gusti Kanjeng Ratu (GKR) Hayu. Meanwhile, the original name of the groom, Angger Pribadi Prabowo, changed to Kanjeng Pangeran Haryo (KPH) Notonegoro.

This Month October 21 - Nyantri, Siraman, and Midodareni Ceremony One day before the wedding, the groom must undergo the Nyantri process, which is stay at the crown prince’s home at Dalem Kebumen, located in Ngasem, about 2 km from the Kraton. The purpose of Nyantri is initiate the groom’s education of Javanese royal wedding culture. In the afternoon, the groom will be picked up by two representatives from the Kraton and taken to one part of the Kraton complex buildings called Kesatrian. In two different places, the groom and the bride are bathed (Siraman) with water flowers which are from seven springs. The bathing ceremony is conducted by seven families members on each side. The ceremony cleanses the physical and spiritual bodies of the bride and groom. The Kerik ceremony follows; Kerik means cutting the thin hair on the bride’s forehead. Next, the bride undergoes the Ngabekten ceremony, which is a way of squatting to kiss the Sultan’s knees, to show the devotion of the child to her parent, and ask for blessing. The Midodareni ceremony, in which the earnestness of the bride and the groom are questioned by Sultan, is witnessed by an

Islamic cleric. This ceremony happens on the front verandah of Proboyekso joglo building.

October 22 - The Consent and Panggih Ceremony The consent will be held around 9am in the Panepen mosque. According to Islamic tradition, the ceremony is only attended by the groom, while the bride is hidden. The ceremony will be led directly by Sultan X. The ceremony is open to the public, journalists can cover the whole consent ceremony with a special permit and must wear a Javanese outfit. After the consent is over, the bride will be picked up and reunited with the groom at Panggih ceremony, which is held in Kencono building, and a series of events follow; the bride and the groom throwing betel leaves to each other, and then the bride being carried by the groom and her uncle in their arms.

10 10

October 23 - The Parade A big parade of 400 soldiers and horse-drawn carriages will depart at 9am from Siti Hinggil, the front joglo building of the Kraton, toward the reception party venue at the Kepatihan building on Jl. Malioboro. Kepatihan was a residence of former vice regent, Patih Danurejo, which is now used as the Office of the Governor of Jogjakarta. A wedding party is held at Kepatihan with invited guests, including the President of Indonesia, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, several Ministers, several Ambassadors, and other honorable guests.

Map of Where to Watch the Parade

STREET FOOD

DAWET IRENG A Prosperity Drink for Javanese Brides

‘‘

Pandan is used for coloring in foods, and to give special aroma to rice and curry dishes in Southeast Asia

Photo: Mika Guritno

hroughout the countries in Southeast Asia you will find close variations of a simple green or black drink with jelly-like consistency, called “dawet” in Indonesia. This refreshing treat is available at streetside vendors, and has a special place in some traditional Javanese weddings. Dawet is a drink of coconut milk mixed with brown sugar and jelly noodles, which are made from a special rice flour called cendol which includes tapioca flour as well. The cendol is either green or black in color and this creates a very distinctive look to the drink. The green colored noodles are made from the natural juice of pandan leaves. In some areas of Java it is possible to find black cendol. Black cendol originates from Purworedjo, and has spread slowly to other areas, including Jogjakarta, and the color comes from ash burned straw. In Vietnam this type of drink is known as “banh lot,” which means “fall cake”. While the Thai call it “lot chong” literally translated as “gone through a hole.” This name refers to a method of making cendol by pressing warm dough through a filter and into a container of cold water, which gives the jelly-like texture. The dough of cendol is then cooked in water until thickened. Do not forget to mix the juice of ash

Words: Deti Lucara

burned straw or pandan leaves to the cold water first, to give it color. Serve cendol with coconut milk, brown sugar, and ice, with sweet and savory flavors perfectly blended in the drink. Dawet is sometimes included in the traditional Javanese wedding. The drink is served to guests the day before the wedding, just after the bathing ceremony of the bride and groom. The bathing ceremony is meant to cleanse the soul and body of the bride and groom, and prepare them for the wedding on the next day. Afterward, the parents of the bride will pretend to be dawet vendors, and “sell” drinks to the guests. It is a light-hearted affair, where the guests buy the drink use artificial coins made of clay. Some say the collected clay coin money is a symbol of good fortune for the bride’s future. In a daily basis, dawet is available as street food, typically sold from bicycle-driven carts. This type of vendor usually sells dawet with green cendol. Dawet with black cendol is typically sold from a carrying pole with barrel-shaped containers at each end. A portion, in either cup, bowl, or bag, should cost about Rp. 3,000, and can be found throughout the streets of Jogja.

Words: Deti Lucara

Photo: Mika Guritno

Javanese Wisdom

SOPO TEMEN BAKAL TINEMU Goodheartedness is the Key to All Success

Photo: Sylvain Leroy

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other related concepts. Even though modernity and religious fundamentalism have somewhat eroded these ethical aspects of Javanese culture, in distant and rather isolated farmer communities, such as those surrounding the Merbabu, these core values still remain the glue which ties social bonds and communal activities there. The Merbabu-Merapi area and surrounding hills, such as Gunung Telomoyo and Unggaran, are also known to historians and sastrawan (classic literature experts) as a main center of religious sanctuaries where monks, yogis and ascetics have resided throughout the centuries, practicing their spirituality in relative isolation from the ‘busy’ world. Less well known is that in former times, retreats of hermits and scholars were scattered along the slopes of these and neighboring mountains where they produced hundreds of classic Old and Middle Javanese manuscripts on lontar leaves. The texts of these hermits and scholars are what is nowadays referred to as ‘the manuscripts of the Merapi and the Merbabu’. These were united into one collection as early as the eighteenth century by Eyang Windusono, a Hindu priest living in the Selo area. In 1852, Windusono’s library was transferred by Dutch colonial scholars to the Bataviaasch Genootschap van Kunsten en Wetenschappen in Batavia, the predecessor to the National Library of Jakarta, where it remains until now. This literary treasure contains works of both Hindu-Buddhist and Islamic nature - the majority of the former in old ‘aksarabuda’ (Buddhist script). Mount Merbabu and the surrounding mountains

Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck & MokoPramusanto

erbabu provides much for the sentient beings living near its slopes! This comment is not unusual if we understand how the Javanese farming population has approached this quasi mythical mountain for centuries. A strong Buddhist following in the higher villages points to an ancient and rich spiritual heritage in this region. The old Sastra literature of Javanese poets and authors supports this if you are interested in further research. Many mountain-people still believe that Merbabu is populated by metaphysical and supernatural beings, and they will recount mysterious anecdotes of disappeared climbers or haunted locations on the mountains. With Merbabu, it is interesting to see surviving pre-Islamic veneration of a natural entity which is believed to provide wealth, both spiritually and naturally. Through the knowledge of pranatamangsa, or reading of the seasons, accurate planting and harvesting patterns can be known long in advance. It is this spiritual and natural system of harmony between the visible and the invisible, between macro-cosmos and micro-cosmos, that explains the reason why volcanoes, and especially Merbabu because of its central location, are perceived as key sources of ‘life’ in all its aspects. Indeed, the name Merbabu stems from the Javanese words meru = Mountain and babu = Caring Mother. This unique cosmological worldview helps create an attitude of respect, and ethics of tolerance, toward all creation - which is very peculiar to traditional Javanese culture (kearifan lokal), and known under the terms such as toposeliro, rukun, budipekerti and many

Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck & MokoPramusanto Photo: Sylvain Leroy

did not represent a refuge of last resort for people fleeing Islam. Rather, we may imagine here a community of scholars settled along the mountain slopes, studying and copying texts at a comfortable distance, but by no means isolated, from the outside world. Literary activities began in this area as early as the time of Old Mataram (8th – 10th century AD) and continued for centuries, the resultant works in their turn inspiring the production of the more famous literary treasures of the kratons (royal palaces) of Kartasura, Surakarta (Solo), and Yogyakarta. Many of these texts deal with ancient spiritual knowledge and treatises on morality and health. They contain poems, wayang stories, tantric ideas, mantras and herbal guides from past eras, which are rare elsewhere and encapsulate the highly sophisticated philosophies of ancient Eastern thought prevalent in Java in pre-modern times. For mystics of the Kejawen spirituality, Merbabu still retains an immense attraction as a destination for hermitage-like pilgrimages and retreats in natural settings. For the farmers who depend on the whims of the mountain, Merbabu, like many other volcanoes

in Java, is seen as a natural balance act between the four elements of air, water, earth and fire. As stated above, the mountain is also often compared with a mother figure, which always selflessly gives birth and nurtures its offspring, yet contains a set of commitments related to Dharma values. The local farming population is still very observant of these intrinsic values that connect them to their land and ancestors. A guideline of spiritual maturity, for example, illustrates that friendship nurtured from the heart will always result in success in life’s different stages, called “Sapatemenbakaltinemu”. Children from an early age on are instilled these ideas of interdependent courtesy towards one another, and the moral values of collective action and interpersonal harmony, which will avert unsatisfactory consequences and failures later on in life’s activities. Such cultural commitments are believed to bring about a life free of serious afflictions and preserve a state of peaceful mind no matter of the changing conditions of the outer material and whimsical world.

Underground Jogja

oNTHEL CHARM

Old Bikes Make New Friends

Suwarsono, PORY’s Chairman, says they regularly tour around the city on Sunday mornings, “Enjoying the beauty of Jogjakarta in rural areas is worth cycling for the sake of physical and spiritual goodness. Many people see us on the way, and somehow it attracts them to take a ride and join us. Our real mission is promoting bicycle riding. Thank God, now we have more than 400 members” he says with pride. Younger members of PORY take a convoy downtown, especially to Jl. Malioboro on Saturday night. “They usually dress in costumes of the colonial period, it is not necessary, but riding an old bike with and old costume does look good together. And it is effective in attracting people’s attention and getting them cycling as well,” Suwarsono said. There are no special requirements to join in PORY. “No need to worry about the bike, all kinds of bikes can join us. If you want to feel the sensation of driving an ancient Dutch bike, PORY members will be happy to lend it to you,” Suwarsono says with a smile, as he climbs back on his bike and continues his journey with the others.

PORY Base Camp: The south side of Minggiran football field, Jogjakarta Tel. (Suwarsono) 085743429110

Photo: Mika Guritno

ring tring! Bicycle bells ring clearly in the middle of bustling Jl. Malioboro. Two people in vintage Dutch military costume pedal across the street pursued by another two riders in classic Indonesian army costume riding the same type of antique bike. Alarming, you think? Are we back in the Indonesian war against Dutch colonialism? As you watch, the cyclists link hands while coasting forward and share laughs at their own playful behaviour. Once tired, they head south to Kilometer 0 and park in front of Verdeburg Fort, simply enjoying a boisterous Saturday night in Jogja. Locals call this type of old bike ‘onthel’ (Javanese for ‘pedaling’). These bikes were introduced by the Dutch during the colonial era (1600s – 1940s), and initially only the Dutch colonists and Javanese nobles could afford bikes, thus they became mobile symbols of prestige. Over time the habit of riding bikes became increasingly widespread among locals, fading only recently in the face of motorbike affordability. There are communities of old bike enthusiasts throughout Indonesia. In Jogja, one group calls themselves PORY (Paguyuban Onthel Rabuk Yuswo, or ‘Old Bike Community For Longevity’). 64 year old

Words: Deti Lucara

Photo: Mika Guritno

Advertorial

Purawisata and Gazebo Garden Resto One Stop Entertainment in the middle of the city

ogjakarta has long been considered the center of Javanese art and culture. This is part of what makes Jogja special, but sometimes the staggering amount of art and cultural attractions can make you feel overwhelmed. Should you go watch a traditional dance performance or enjoy dining on fine Indonesian cuisine? Go listen to some live music or fill the day with games and attractions the kids are sure to enjoy? Luckily for tourists there is Purawisata, 2.3 hectors packed with art and culture right in the heart of the city. Just one visit to Purawisata and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see dance performances, eat amazing cuisine and fill the day with activities for adults and children alike. Situated right in the center of the city, Purawisata is only 300 meters from Sultan Palace and close to everything. The Purawisata site is a large complex consisting of an amusing park, outdoor adventure activities, a performing arts center, and many restaurants. Every night there is a large dinner buffet set amongst of a large group of outdoor gazebos. Here guests can enjoy a romantic evening

or a cozy personal family diner. Afterwards, at 8 pm all guests are entertained with Ramayana dance performance, a real Javanese cultural treat. Ramayana is a traditional Javanese dance performance where dozens of graceful professional dancers depict the great love of Rama and Shinta, the two main characters in this Ramayana story of Hindu origin. Purawisata has been a strong force in preserving this piece of Javanese culture over the years. For 24 consecutive years Purawisata has performed the Ramayana dance every night. Through sun and rain without stopping for one days rest, the Ramayana dance company has performed on schedule at 8 pm every single night. The amusement park adds appeal to families where activities like the waterboom, flying fox, mini train, are sure to entertain children all day long. And while the kids play adults can relax and enjoy live music shows (every day except Sunday and Tuesday.) In addition to all of these activities and on stage attraction, visiting foodies will enjoy the wide array

Purawisata and Gazebo Garden Restaurant Jl. Brigjend Katamso, Yogjakarta Tel. 0274 375305 / 380643 PIN BB: 21526ECC www.purawisatajogjakarta.com Purawisata Jogja @pura_wisata of culinary delights served at the Gazebo Garden Resto. With 26 classic Indonesian dishes on the menu and available either â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;a la carteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or as part of the buffet, eating at Purawisata is a cultural experience all onto itself. Play all day, sit back and enjoy the cultural performances, and taste the very best of Javaense cuisine, with Purawisata you can do it all in one place located right in the heart of the city. The package of dinner and Ramayana dance performance can be obtained through travel agents, hotels, or can register directly at the venue. Live music comes every Monday, Wednesday , Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 8:30 pm - 11 pm .

Javanese health secret

kelor Moringaoleifera

• Herpes and purulent skin wounds. Treatment: Mash moringa leaf with lime and then apply on eczema or injury. • Loss of appetite, epilepsy, hysteria, ulcers, difficulty urinating, weakness, jaundice, rheumatism and muscle pains. Treatment: Boil moringa roots as much as 1 finger with 2 cups of water until reduces to a remaining 1 cup, then strain this liquid. Drink ½ cup twice each day. • Beriberi vitamin B1 deficiency. Treatment: Mix crushed moringa root, papaya roots, and mace pulp or cloves, each 1 finger. Add water, wring it out, and strain. Drink filtered water 2 times a day. • Urticarial and allergies. Treatment: Boil 3 Moringa leaf stalk, 1 red onion, add fennel and 20

pulasari to taste in 3 cups of water, boil until remaining 2 cups. Filter and drink boiled water twice a day. • Crushed moringa seeds have traditionally been used to purify drinking water from germs and impurities. Sources mention that in traditional societies moringa roots are used for the treatment of malaria, to reduce pain, and lower high blood pressure. Leaves are also used for lowering high blood pressure, diarrhea, diabetes mellitus (diabetes). Moringa crop cultivation is not difficult - because of the nature of these plants they do not need much fertilizer, are naturally pest resistant, and disease resistant. In fact, they are often grown by farmers along with other crops, especially legumes (green beans, soy, long beans) for their fertilizing and resistant properties. Moringa also has tremendous mystical efficacy among Javanese practitioners of kejawen. Moringa trees are believed to have natural properties to neutralize witchcraft magic and various negative auras, and so they are often grown in backyards at the four cardinal corners around the house. Leaves are said to be effective neutralizers of magical amulets worn by some people. In combination with the betelnut tree they are used to avert sorcery or spirit attacks. Moringa is linked to the North (Lor) astrologically, which means death or bad luck; essentially this translates in a use as a sedative or yin energy source appropriate for problems of insomnia and hypertension. Truly a multipurpose plant of the already rich Javanese “natural drugstore”!

Words & Photo: Moko Pramusanto

elor is the Javanese name for a common plant found growing all over Indonesia. There are several local designations for this plant. In Indonesian it is known as ‘moringa’. This plant can be considered a bit of a ‘wonder’ plant as its medicinal qualities are many, and farmers love its potential for fertilization and as a natural pesticide. In Java, moringa plants are used traditionally for fences. The leaves are often used in cooking as vegetables. However, its most widespread use is in traditional medication, especially the bitter tasting parts of the plant. According to several sources, the moringa plant can indeed be used as medicine, as it contains a potent essential oil. Oily seeds contain myrosine, emulsine, non-toxic bitter alkaloids and vitamins A, B1, B2 and C. Pharmacologically speaking, the chemical constituents of the moringa tree has anti-inflammatory, anti-pyretic and antiscurvy properties. Holistically moringa is a source of yin, or cooling, energy. Traditional treatments use the roots, leaves and seeds of moringa in local concoctions, considered effective for some types of diseases including:

Words & Photo: Moko Pramusanto

Active Jogja

Beat the Heat Local Night Running Offers New Experience

Photos: Thea Rizkia Courtesy

as they please. The route is typically 5K around the Kotabaru area, Mangkubumi, and eventually loops back to the starting point to finish at Grapari Telkomsel. Some participants who run faster than average usually add more distance. “However, this must be discussed first and floored to another participant prior running so they won’t be misled,” Rizkia said. In addition to their TNR, Indo Runners sometimes runs on Sunday mornings in the UGM area, but the venue may vary. Runners also often participate together in races. “Last week we completed the Jogja 10K. Within two weeks, we will run in Adidas King of the Road race” in Jakarta, said Rizkia. Graphic or some sort of sidebar for the following: It would not be an Indonesian group if there were not a social element to it. Across the board, group members credit Indo Runners with keeping them semangat (spirited). Thea Rizkia: “Why should one run with Indo Runners? Because we are a cool community. Everyone can run with her/own speed comfortably with us… the most important thing, we keep you encouraged to run more distance.” Tito Rusdin: “We ‘compete’ with each other, not to beat other members, but to become better runners.” Mas Galz: “I run alone, but I prefer running with a community because there I got more spirit from others, got more friends, got a running activity schedule, and we can also share about running events information.” Heri Anto: “Running with a community also can inspire each other to be healthy.” Danu Ega Yamin: “I joined Indo Runners simply because they are all nice people!” Very Suryadharma Wirawan: “I do run alone 3-4 times a week, but running with friends is more fun and more relaxing!” Fangkie Limawan: “We can share our knowledge such as how to run correctly, improve our capability, and also how to buy some gear (with sales of up to 70%)!”

Words: Julianne Greco

unning the streets of Jogja can be downright intimidating. City roads are often uneven with missing chunks in some places and the air is thick and heavy from the heat and pollution. If those two factors do not discourage a runner, the crazy traffic alone is obstacle enough. Yet regardless of these challenging conditions, a group of about 15 runners take to the streets of Jogja every week—for fun. They are the Jogja chapter of Indo Runners, Indonesia’s largest running community (according to their website). Run at night with a big group of people who love running, and the seemingly suboptimal running conditions melt away. The sun is already down by the time Indo Runners take off running, so the heat factor is of much less concern. With such a big group of people, runners can find safety in numbers from traffic. Indo Runners has stock routes that they usually take, so courses are familiar and runners in the front point out broken spots in the pavement. Interested in going along for a run? Indo Runners hits the streets every week on Thursday for their Thursday Night Run (TNR). They gather at the Grapari Telkomsel Building on Jl. Sudirman at 6:45 p.m. and start running at about 7:15 p.m. Not a serious runner, or new to running? No problem! All levels are welcome to join TNR— just show up at Telkomsel by the stadium on a Thursday wearing running shoes. “Anyone can join Indo Runners. We welcome newbies who are used to running or willing to start running,” said Thea Rizkia, an Indo Runners vet. Rizkia and husband Ogi initiated the TNR in Jogja just over a year ago, in August 2012. It’s a “fluid community” according to Rizkia, and people can come and go week to week

Words: Julianne Greco

Photos: Thea Rizkia Courtesy

POrtraiT of jogja

THE GUARDIAN OF THE MOUNTAIN Meet the Spiritual Protector of Indonesia’s Most Active Volcano

Photo: Mika Guritno & Sylvain Leroy

of Southern Sea while meditating for strength and guidance to lead his kingdom. The Sea Queen appeared and fell in love with him. She promised to protect the Senopati’s kingdom and his descendants, with the requirement that every Sultan must marry her. This agreement is believed to still be valid until today. As a gift of their marriage, The Queen gave Senopati an egg called Ndog Jagad (Ndog means Egg, Jagad means Universe). The gift was eaten by one of Senopati’s servants, who then turned into an ugly giant. Senopati ordered the giant to stay at Mount Merapi, and every year the Kraton would send him clothes and foods. Since then, the giant, known as Kyai Sapu Jagad, rules Mount Merapi. To keep Sultan’s promise, every year, on the anniversary of the Sultan’s coronation, the Kraton holds a ceremony on the mountain, bringing traditional clothes, food, and flowers to Kyai Sapu Jagad and the other spirits on Mount Merapi. This ceremony is led by the Juru Kunci Gunung Merapi, now Mbah Asih. Mbah Asih is not only responsible to lead one ceremony. He must also look after the mountain physically by guarding against illegal logging and animal hunting, and spiritually, by being the bridge of communication between our physical world and the supernatural world, as his father did. Although Mbah Asih claims he doesn’t have supernatural powers like his late father, he still has a sincere desire to guard the mountain. “Back when my father was alive, he often went up to the summit. I do not know exactly why he did that often. Now when I became Juru Kunci, somehow I also find myself climbing to the top frequently. It is quite strange, as if I long to be there on the top and get closer to the mountain itself,” Asih says with wonder. Maybe he misses the figure of his father, who faithfully guarded the mountain until his last breath. Or maybe, the mountain’s spirits want to communicate with him.

Words: Deti Lucara

n October of 2010, Mount Merapi began unleashing a series of volcanic eruptions that would last 6 weeks, taking more than 350 lives. The Juru Kunci Gunung Merapi (Keeper of Mount Merapi’s Keys), the spiritual protector of the mountain, Mbah Marijan, was one of those lost, and on the third anniversary of this tragic and important event we climbed the mountain to interview his successor and son, Mbah Asih. Appointed by the Sultan to succeed his father, Mbah Asih greets visitors with an easy smile and lean frame, stoically shouldering the responsibilities of Juru Kunci Gunung Merapi, and keeping a careful watch on the mountain and its relationship to the surrounding area. In the Javanese spiritualism, Mount Merapi has an important role in the balancing concept of the Kraton (Royal Palace). If you see the map of Jogja, you can draw an imaginary straight line that connects the volcano in the North, runs through the Kraton in the middle, and ends at the sea in the South. The volcano embodies the fire element, the ocean represents the water element, and the Kraton is the earth element as well as the counterweight. Some say the sea is a symbol of femininity and the mountain is symbol of masculinity. In all cases these elements require balance to maintain harmony, which is why the Kraton regularly carries out certain ceremonies and offerings at both of these points of natural forces. The unique connection between the mountain, the Kraton, and the sea can not be separated from Javanese folklore. Reputedly, the first king of Jogja, Panembahan Senopati or Sultan I, met the Queen

Words: Deti Lucara

Photo: Mika Guritno & Sylvain Leroy

INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH

SUMARTOYO

General Manager of Bale Raos Royal Cuisi Bale Raos restaurant is known for serving every Sultan of Jogjakarta’s favorite meals. Can you tell us a little bit about the background of establishing this restaurant? Bale Raos was founded in 2004 with the mission to preserve cultural heritage, especially in the culinary field, and was initiated by Sultana GKR Hemas, wife of the current Sultan, Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X, and the Sultan’s brother, KGPH Hadiwinoto. In part, this arose because many of the buildings in the complex of the Kraton (the Sultan’s Palace) are not being used. We chose the soldier’s former barracks as the site of Bale Raos restaurant, which is centrally located inside the Kraton complex, but can be accessed from a side road for convenience.

Bale Raos Royal Cuisine Restaurant Magangan Kulon 1, Kraton Complex, Yogjakarta Tel. 0274 2623035

Do you have an idea for how many dishes from the Kraton have not yet been explored? The culinary heritage of the Kraton is very diverse and rich, and there is much still to explore. At Bale Raos we only present about 75% of the total known recipes, and these are only for main courses. If we begin discussing snacks and smaller dishes, there is much more to discover. Moreover, the culinary heritage of the early Sultans, as I said earlier,

Photo: Mika Guritno

The word “KRATON” (Royal Palace) comes from “KA-RATU-AN”, with “RATU” meaning ruler, it literally translates to “HOME OF THE RULER”

What are some of the favorite dishes of the sultans on the menu? Are all the of Jogjakarta’s Sultan’s favorite foods available here? Our menu serves favorite dishes we know of from Sultan VIII to Sultan IX as the sources for the recipes are relatively easy to find. For older Sultans, we have trouble finding complete information about their favorite foods; written records are not always available, and some oral history has been lost. We were able to learn that Sultan I’s favorite foods included Nasi Golong and Pecal Ayam. The favorite of Sultan VIII is a salad Huzar, and Sultan IX, who liked to cook, created some dishes himself, including Bebek SuwarSuwir, Java Steak, Tongue Steak, and Gecok Kambing.

Words: Deti Lucara

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Did You Know?

Does this restaurant provide the meals for the Kraton as well? Inside the Kraton there are two other kitchens that cook and serve for the Sultan and his royal family on a daily basis. The names of these kitchens are Pawon Soko Langgen and Pawon Kebulen, and Bale Raos is a restaurant primarily for the public. However, if the Sultan holds a banquet with important guests, we are the ones to cook all the dishes.

Royal Cuisine Restaurant remains only partly understood - there is a lot of history left to uncover. Cooking the Sultan’s food, must require the highest quality ingredients. Where does Bale Raos get all the groceries? Obviously we chose the best ingredients. We do not rely on imports, because most of our food is Javanese food made with local ingredients that have been available throughout history, and we always make sure they are the finest. For example, we offer a snack made from bananas of the Raja variety that have been tree ripened because they have the best taste. Another example is the Bendul snack made from a specific cassava variety that tastes sweeter and softer.

Words: Deti Lucara

Can you tell us about the chefs who use these quality ingredients to make the Sultan’s dishes here? Actually, anyone who has cooking background can be a chef at Bale Raos. The primary requirement is loving Indonesia’s culinary history and having the desire to preserve it. As for maintaining the taste of food, first we learned from the old cooks of the Kraton’s kitchens where they have decades of experience in cooking food for the Sultans. The taste should be the same, but we do try to present it in a modern way.

Photo: Mika Guritno

You said earlier that Bale Raos was founded with the mission of preserving our local culinary history. But we’ve found that there are a lot of local restaurants and street vendors that copy the menu here. Does this affect your image? We do not want this culinary heritage to be exclusively isolated inside the walls of the Kraton. If that were so, these foods would disappear. Cultural preservation does not mean ‘put it in a museum’, but rather introduce it to the public in general, so that they can replicate and enjoy these dishes, allowing the unique dishes of the Kraton to continue to live in the society. If many restaurants are serving a similar menu, it means our mission is accomplished. Regarding image problems, we are not worried. Other restaurants can serve the same menu, but we present the finest materials with the original taste intact in a fabulous atmosphere. We come with ultimate satisfaction.

TOP 10 EVENTS

OCTOBER 2013

Tour de Jogja Bike Fest 2013

5 - 6 October

Time: 6am Place: Start and finish at Royal Ambarukmo Hotel Phone: 0274 587486 Entrance Fee: Registration at tourdejogja.bikefest-cgi.com A bicycle tour event to relish the beautiful natural scenery of Jogjakarta. The routes will go through some incredible natural sightseeing in Jogja and surrounding areas including Parangtritis Beach, Krakal Beach, Wonosari Street, Turi village, and Kaliurang village on the slope of Merapi mountain. There will be a coaching clinic on October 4.

Canon Photo Marathon Indonesia 2013

6 October

Time: 7am - 7pm Place: Gembiraloka Zoo Registration: www.canon-asia.com / 0274 511717 Entrance Fee: IDR 150k - 225k The largest photo competition in Asia is back. Spanning five countries, this year’s competition will bring together photographic talents from India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Vietnam. Be one of the many to join this photo competition that challenges participants to create photographic masterpieces in line with assigned themes - under time pressure.

Mass Wedding - Jogja Menikah “Nikah Bareng Nol KM”

10 October

Time: 3pm - 5pm Place: Titik nol KM Phone: 0274 381847 Entrance Fee: Free Gondomanan Ta’aruf Forum will break the record in giving Holy Matrimony for 1,000 couples at once to celebrate the 257th Jogjakarta City Anniversary. This event is also a form of gratitude for the award received by Gondomanan Ta’aruf forum as an exemplary religious institution at the national level.

Tumplak Wajik Ceremony

12 October

Time: 2pm Place: Courtyard of Magangan palace Phone: 0274 588025 / 7114650 Entrance Fee: Free “Tumplak Wajik” is a traditional ceremony of making wajik (traditional food of sticky rice and brown sugar). Wajik is made as the starter before making “Gunungan” or mountain-shaped food (stacking variety of traditional foods, fruits and vegetables), which will be eaten by the visitors during “Grebeg Besar” event held by Jogja Palace. The making process of wajik will be accompanied by popular Javanese folk songs. 14 October DJ and Model Competition Java-Bali Road to 2nd Anniversary Republic Positiva Time: 10pm - Until end Place: Republic Positiva Cafe & Lounge, Inna Garuda Hotel Jl Malioboro No. 60 Phone: 0274 560853 Entrance Fee: IDR 50k Celebrating the second Anniversary, Republic Positiva holds a DJ and model competition, which will run every Monday starting from September 16 until the final night on October 14, and enlivened with special performance presented by DJ Schizo.

15 October

Grebeg Besar

Time: 8am Place: Courtyard of Kauman Mosque (alun-alun utara) Yogyakarta Phone: 0274 588025 / 7114650 Entrance Fee: Free “Gerebeg Besar” is a traditional event held by the Kraton to commemorate the feast of Eid al-Adha. This event is open to public, and visitors can compete for mountain-shaped food or “Gunungan” which are carried by Palace’s soldiers in the parade. “Gunungan” is a symbol of prosperity of Jogjakarta Palace, and it also means a harmonious relationship between Sultan as the King and his people. 19 October MIPA UGM IN CONCERT “Freedom of Movement – When JAZZ and BLUES meet in ONE STAGE” Time: 6.30pm Place: GOR UNY Karangmalang, Sleman Phone: 085691034806 Entrance Fee: IDR 50k - 185k An outstanding performance of Jazz and Blues collaboration in a concert will be presented for music lovers on Oct 19. The concert is enlivened by some famous and prominent Indonesian musicians such as Barry Likumahuwa, Gugun Blues shelter, Endah and Resha.

PAWIWAHAN AGENG Yogyakarta’s Royal Wedding

23 October

Time: 9am Place: Malioboro street Phone: 0274 373177 Entrance Fee: Free The great royal wedding of Sultan’s daughter, Princess Nurabra Juwita and Angger Pribadi, will take place over 3 days, 21-23 October 2013. The big parade with a graceful carriages and hundreds of soldiers will enliven Malioboro Street on October 23 morning, starts at 9am. Thousands of people will fill the streets to celebrate the excitement of the fiesta.

JAVA SUMMER CAMP Soul of Friendship

1 - 3 November

Time: 8am Place: Ratu Boko Temple camp site, Sleman Phone : 0274 - 869613 Entrance Fee: IDR 400k Java Summer Camp is an international camping event for Indonesian and foreign students, aiming to establish networking among students from all over the world to promote Jogja tourism to the international community. Come and join them for an unforgettable summer camp experience. Every Wednesday & Thurstday

Learning Classic Traditional Javanese Dance Time: Every Wednesday for women, (10am - 12pm) Every Saturday for men, (1pm - 3pm) Place: Pendopo/Kedaton Royal Heritage (Royal Ambarukmo Hotel) Jl. Laksda Adisucipto, No. 81 Phone: 0274 488488 Entrance Fee: Free Classic traditional javanese dance is a truly breathtaking art. Precise steps, poses, and gestures accompanied with magical gamelan music unite to form an exquisite story without words.

TOURIST