JogjaMag November 2013 by Mika Guritno

FREE Nov 2013

ENGLISH Your Guide to Discovering Jogja

KALIBIRU From Barren to Lush and Abundant

Bengkel Mime Theatre p. 16 Like Doing Yoga in India p. 22 Ngayogjazz 2013 p.28 TOP 10 EVENTS THIS MONTH

TOURIST DIRECTORY & MAPS

Over 1500 local business listings www.jogjabagus.com

#17

Contents

EDITOR’S NOTE This November, we take you off the beaten track for an alternative view of captivating Jogja. For a breath of fresh air, take it easy with a short trip over to the green lush hilltops of Kalibiru, a place where locals are working hard to cultivate a culture of forest tourism. Stretch out and unwind with a yoga class, in an Indian restaurant’s relaxed little studio. Wander off the main street, as we invite you to snack on some bicycle-oven-baked fish cakes and watch some mimes in a comedic and witty performance. To help get you inspired this month, we profile a local group that is pushing the conventional boundaries of male-female roles by tackling domestic violence issues. There’s so much exciting stuff happening in this dynamic city, so stay tuned month-to-month. Take care, Julianne Greco

JOGJAMAG STAFF FOUNDER & EDITOR CO-EDITOR

CONTENT MANAGER STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHER GRAPHIC DESIGNER CUSTOMER SERVICE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE CONTRIBUTORS Cover Photo Copyright of:

Sylvain Leroy Erik W. Jorgensen Sarah Herz Julianne Greco Anna Miranti Deti Lucara M. Arifin Mika Guritno Lily K. Jisura Hendro Wijanarko Patrick Vanhoebrouck Moko Pramusanto Mika Guritno

PTPMA. Mindo Jl. Suryodiningratan Griya Suryo Asri 2, No. A2 Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 372971

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

08 12 18 22 26 29 33

From Barren to Lush and Abundant

INSPIRING JOGJA

The Alliance of New Men

Otak-Otak Bakar

STREET FOOD

UNDERGROUND JOGJA Bengkel Mime Theatre

JAVANESE HEALTH SECRET

JAVANESE WISDOM

Hindrances will be Resolved

ADVERTORIAL

Cuba Libre

Beras Kencur

ACTIVE JOGJA

Like Doing Yoga in India

PORTRAIT OF JOGJA Wisdom in a Keris

INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH

Marketing Manager of Cupuwatu Resto

Top 10 Events

TOURIST DIRECTORY

What’s Happening This Month

SPOTLIGHT EVENTS Ngayogjazz

JOGJA MAP

Find what you’re looking for

City Map, Jl. Prawirotaman & Jl. Sosrowijayan

Contact: 0274 372971 (Eng) 08562662373 (Ind) cso@jogjastar.com

JogjaMag @jogjamag jogjamag.com

Previous Editions

restaurant - travel - guesthouse fair trade shop - yoga studio indonesian and world kitchen friday night jazz alternative tours and courses contemporary art exhibitions fair trade shop | yoga classes open daily from 7.30 am

jalan prawirotaman 30, jogjakarta, java, indonesia ph +62 274 38 65 57

www.viaviajogja.com | www.viaviacafe.com

Destination of the month

from barren to lush and abundant Locals Develop Kalibiru Forest Tourism in Kulon Progo

Photo: Mika Guritno

Words: Deti Lucara

f heading off to explore Kalibiru forest in the mountainous area of Menoreh, Kulon Progo, Yogyakarta, prepare to be spoiled with beautiful natural scenery, fresh air, abundant water resources, and plenty of animals. Looking at such a lush green area, it is hard to imagine that this very forest was once barren. With great dedication spanning decades, locals managed to turn the place into a stunning natural paradise, which is now one of the most favored destinations in the Kulon Progo district. About 30 years ago, most of the Kalibiru forest was defined by its dryness and dustiness. There were no living trees, just grass and weeds. The only food that could be grown was cassava, with just one harvest a year. Suparlan Budi Raharja, a Kalibiru senior citizen initiated the reforestation in 1981. Raharjaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first effort was planting 25 mahogany trees, which then inspired his neighbors to do the same. With self-generated funds, community members bought seeds and started planting trees in a 50 acres area of Kalibiru. In 1998 the locals began to plant trees in 29 acres of nearby state forest, which had been neglected by the government. The results of their hard work could be seen in the greenness of the mountains, the fat and healthy cattle thanks to the new abundance of food, and the appearance of 14 new springs. In 2008, the local community transformed this area into Kalibiru forest tourism. This forest area lies 450 meters above sea level, and if the weather is sunny, you can see the majestic scenery of Mt. Merapi, the southern Javanese coastline and Sermo Reservoir, which is located just below the forest.

Available facilities in the area are cottages, a view tower, a gazebo and outdoor recreational activities such as flying fox (zip-line). Interesting outdoor treks with diverse paths and mileage are offered, with the option of 1.5, 3, 5 or 7 km. The experiences and the sights along the way are worth having. If lucky enough to cross paths with a local resident who is gathering firewood, expect a warm smile and friendly greeting. And, if you are very lucky, you may spot in the woods rare animals such as the Javanese eagle, partridge, porcupine, wild boar and Javanese tiger.

Admission Fee: IDR 2,000 Flying Fox: IDR 5,000 / children IDR 10,000 / adults Book cottages in advance, call Parjan, Tel. 081392023122

*See page 9 for Javanese Wisdom on Kalibiru and other Jogja destinations.

Scan me for directions to Kalibiru

Inspiring jogja

The Alliance of New Men Men of Jogja Take a Stand Against Domestic Violence Rifka Annisa activists promote the Alliance of New Men.

“A woman’s territory is sumur-dapur-kasur (well-kitchen-bedroom). In contrast, the value of masculinity is reflected by five essential components: garwo-kukilo-tahto-turonggo-griyo (wife-hobby-power-vehicle-house).”

The New Men Alliance Contacts: Twitter: @lakilakibaru FB: Aliansi Laki Laki Baru www.lakilakibaru.or.id Rifka Annisa’s Office: Jl. Jambon IV, Komp. Jatimulyo Indah Yogyakarta, 55241 E-mail. rifka@rifka-annisa.or.id Tel. 0274 553333 / 552904

Photo: Courtesy of Rifka Annisa

AB pushed himself to improve his communication, working towards a long and intense reconciliation. “We shared what’s in our hearts and minds. She cried, I cried. It was a little embarrassing for me to cry, but I felt relieved afterwards and we now understand each other better.” When asked about the New Men Alliance, he is very pleased that such a group exists. “It is true that men need guidance and counseling to deal with this issue. And I believe the New Men Alliance will be able to change the way we [men] see and treat women.” The New Men Alliance regularly holds a discussion group with about 10 participants. Rifka Annisa also provides psychological assistance for men, and actively works on public awareness campaigns to stop violence against women. Roni, the New Men Alliance’s program manager is confident that the movement is gaining momentum and men are starting to question their role. “With the dedication and the support of the volunteers and our professional team… the number of members and sympathizers of the alliance is growing larger.”

Words: Deti Lucara

ld sayings, such as this, that distinguish separate spheres for men and women, emphasize a tendency in traditional Javanese thinking to devalue women next to men. Unfortunately, physical, sexual, economic and psychological abuse are sometimes justified with this type of reasoning. However, things are changing, as some people are starting to challenge this mode of thinking. Men are starting to open up and dismantle traditional stereotypes. One group, Aliansi Laki-laki Baru (New Men Alliance) formed in 2007 to open up the dialogue of what it means to be a man. The group was initiated by a non-profit focused on women’s issues, Rifka Annisa Women Crisis Center. “The real man is one who has a sense of caring, loving, understanding and respecting women. He must be committed to equality and justice, antidiscrimination, and anti-violence against women,” says Sae Roni, the Program Manager of Rifka Annisa. Changing ways of thinking and a masculine dominant mentality, which is deeply rooted in the Javanese patriarchal culture, is not an easy task. A former perpetrator of domestic abuse opened up and shared his own story, admitting that sometimes it was difficult to understand and respect his wife, especially after many disagreements with her in the house. “One day I lost control, and I beat her... It was terrible, really,” AB confessed. Following the abuse, AB’s wife took the kids and left the house.

- Javanese saying.

STREET FOOD

OTAK-OTAK BAKAR

Served Fresh from the Back of a Bicycle

A banana leaf pack of otak-otak is around IDR 1,500

Photo: Mika Guritno

Although an international snack, otak-otak has not always been easy to find on the streets of Jogja. Before 2010, a few families that moved from Sumatra to Yogyakarta sold the Sumatran-style cakes and sauces from small warungs (food stalls) they established. But in the past three years, there has been a noticeable rise in otak-otak availability throughout the city. “As far as I know, my boss was the first one to popularize this food in bulk,” explained Pak Sugino, local otak otak vendor. “He has 35 vendors scattered throughout Jogja. Every day we take the [fish cake] dough from him, and then cook and sell it at various spots on the street of Jogja,” Sugino said. If walking down Jl. Solo before or after watching a movie at Cinema XXI, take the chance to try otakotak, which is sold just in front of the theater. The savory aromas will lead the way there, and the style of the vendor can be recognized: a multi-use bicycle with a little grill on it, some packs of banana leaves, and usually a sign. Other places to find otak-otak include the Gowok area in front of Ambarrukmo Plaza Mall, the Babarsari area, and near the Beringharjo traditional market on Jl. Malioboro. The otak-otak bicycles usually join Jogja’s lively collection of street vendors after lunch, selling their cakes until as late as 10 p.m.

Words: Deti Lucara

early every imaginable kind of vehicle can be spotted in the streets of Yogyakarta. Horsedrawn carriages rattle past ancient looking becaks (rickshaws), while motorcycles and flashy cars vie for lead positions in front of traffic lights. Streets overflowing with vendors offer everything from ice cream to cleaning supplies. Amidst all the chaos there is one type of food peddler with an internationally acclaimed snack, modestly advertising the words “Otak Otak Bakar” (grilled fish cake) across aluminum stove boxes attached on the backs of bicycles. Otak-otak is a popular snack in Malaysia, Singapore (where it is known as otah) and Indonesia. In Indonesia, the fish cake was initially produced in Palembang, south Sumatra, centuries ago, before spreading out to become popular in big cities such as Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta and Makassar. The fish cake is made primarily from mashed mackerel mixed with spices such as shallots, garlic, scallions, egg, coconut milk and sago flour. The dough is then wrapped in banana leaves and baked or steamed, before being served with sauce. When the banana leaves become dry and discolored, the fish cake is ready to be served, and is best enjoyed while still warm, with Javanese peanut sauce. The sauce is made from roasted mashed peanuts that is mixed with garlic, salt, seasoning, water and chili (optional), though each region’s sauce reflects its local preference. In Palembang, for instance, the cakes are served with cuka, a sweet and sour vinegar sauce.

Javanese Wisdom

RAWE-RAWE RANTAS, MALANG-MALANG PUTUNG Hindrances Will be Resolved, Obstacles Will be Wiped Out

forests and dotted with large underground caves, the Menoreh hills provided the rebels with strategic bases to prepare stealth attacks and ambush the Dutch during the famous ‘Java Uprising War’. Two elements we want to highlight here, concerning life and struggle in the Menoreh Hills, are the prodigious amounts of water sources and the other more invisible sources known to kejawen and kebatinan followers, those related to ‘kasekten energy’. It is clear to the people living and surviving here that without the continuously flowing underground streams, spring-fed pools (sendang) and other natural freshwater sources, which are seemingly impervious to dry-season droughts, life on the slopes here could not be sustained. As a crucial part of a complex natural chain, along with animals, plants, humans and spirits, water sustains the harmonious cycle of life. It is therefore not surprising to find an indigenous belief of a sacred relationship between all parts of the cycle, and consequent practices by humans to manage a proper caretaker function within this cycle. An example is the sacred nature of large old trees and their direct symbiosis with water-springs nearby. Experience has proven that cutting down these trees will provoke a drying up or disappearance of the spring. This can also happen if the tree is felled by strong winds. In Kalibiru, one can ask about such an occurrence which recently happened in 2011, whereby a banyan tree crashed across a village path due to a storm and remained there for six months before the community was forced to saw it and evacuate as the government planned on paving the road with asphalt. As the roots were cut first before the actual trunk, the banyan unexpectedly raised itself and came back to its original position near the sendang below. It survived upright for another six months before it died out naturally. The local people say that while the tree was down and after its death the spring-fed sendang

Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck & Moko Pramusanto

he Menoreh range of hills west of Yogyakarta separate the Province of the DIY and the district of Purworejo, which is the easternmost region of what is known as the ‘Bagelen’. These hills have been the silent witnesses of many historical events since at least the sixth century, when a Kingdom of Galuh had its capital there. Galuh gave rise to the later Saivite Sanjaya and Mahayana Cailendra dynasties of the old Mataram Empire known for its legacy of Prambanan and Borobudur monuments and dozens of other temples in the area. The Menoreh hills thus contain many ancient mysterious and sacred sites, which up to the present provide spiritually inclined Javanese with places to practice the indigenous kebatinan teachings related to a unique Tantric connection with venerated ancestors and the Universe. Kalibiru hill in the southern Kokap sub-regency is one of these old sacred spots, beautifully covered by a large community-managed forest and overlooking the scenic Sermo reservoir. Visitors here will surely enjoy the peaceful refreshing surroundings and the multitude of hiking trails lacing around hilltops and into lush green forests, whilst dining on grilled freeranging Nila fish. Small traditional villages are perched all around and the Javanese farmers unassumingly work their agroforestry plots of land, chiefly producing the main spices and herbs used in traditional Javanese cooking and herbal remedies (jamu). From the Kalibiru highest peak, one can enjoy a wide panorama including the south coast of the Java Sea, with other famous sacred sites lined up all around such as Glagah beach, Gunung Lanang ritual sanctuary and to the west, the dark pyramid-shape of Gunung Kelir. The haunted Kelir Mountain and surrounding hilly region gained fame amongst the Dutch colonial troops during their war against the rebel forces, led by Prince Diponegara in the 1820s. Home to impenetrable

from North Central Java crouched on a portable bed at 73 years of age. Her perseverance and spiritual wisdom got her the name of Djayeng Sekar, an honorific nickname for women who inherit the properties of warriors. Her popularized kebatinan motto was “rawe rawe rantas, malang malang putung”, meaning “hindrances will be resolved, obstacles will be wiped out”. This type of saying obviously gives Javanese the spirit to fight towards an important target. Spiritually interpreted, it relates to the value known as “Suro diro joyo jayaningrat, lebur dening pangastuti” translated as “Evil will always be crushed by Truth”. Struggle leaders such as Nyi Ageng Serang not only fought on the physical side so that this country could become independent, but also maintained the great values of Java, encapsulated in the saying “JiwokangKajawilanJawiingkangKajiwo” or “a conscious mind grows from outer experience and the Outer attends to the deep Self”. This essential Javanese value guarantees a consciousness directed at finding harmony in four core aspects of life: 1. Memayu Hayuning Pribadi (maintaining and upholding a ‘realized’ self-identity). 2. Memayu Hayuning Jalmi (improving human dignity). 3. Memayu Hayuning Negari (maintaining the security and prosperity of the country and Nations). 4. Memayu Hayuning Bawono (caring for the welfare of others and preservation of the Universe). For the Javanese people, a person’s development passes through the acquisition of Consciousness and Wisdom in order to reach JumenengSepuh or the State of the Elders, which is said to give someone the ability to answer all dynamics of life by striving for harmonization, expressed in Indonesian language by “Serasi, Selarasdan, Seimbang” (Suitable, Compatible and Balanced).

Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck & Moko Pramusanto

receded to a mere pool. They made sure to replant a young shoot of the old banyan tree near the spring, which flows again today and where villagers take their baths and use the water for consumption. Another aspect of this anecdote is the kebatinan approach of the people. Although officially Muslim of religion, the locals know that a spiritual dimension needs to be managed well in order for the crucial lifecycle to be sustained here. Old trees and water-springs are also residences of several types of spirit beings (lelembut), and in traditional Java humans should cooperate with these spirits to care for their natural life-giving environment. Certain mystical criteria and agreements are always necessary for this, and thus the above-mentioned spring received annual offerings and the performance of a Tayub dance every second year. In return, the gendruwo families residing in the trees and also using the spring-water helped maintain an acceptable level of harmony for the villagers and their cattle. This belief in spirits is not the exclusivity of isolated villagers in the hills; it is shared by the nobility of the Yogyakarta Kraton families and a vast number of spiritual mystics across Java. The Menoreh hills have attracted many of these because through practices of spiritual connection with the spirit dimensions, one is believed to find solutions to one’s life struggles and problems. Higher categories of spirits are represented by illustrious ancestors and divine beings, and these are more trustworthy than the lelembut spirits described above. These higher beings are sought for enlightening advice (petunjuk), guidance (wisikan) or supernatural powers (kasekten). A famous freedom fighter named Nyi Ageng Serang who joined Prince Diponegara in his anticolonial uprising against the Dutch and who is buried not far from Kalibiru, exemplifies perfectly this type of kebatinan relationship with the Universe. She became therefore a highly respected ancestor, leading an army

Underground Jogja

The Art of Body Motions and Expressions Bengkel Mime Theatre Uses Parody to Reflect Real Life

“Mime leads us to see life through a multi-perspective point of view, a moment to redefine life and reflect ourselves and the surroundings. Mime is an ocean of creativities and unlimited possibilities”

Bengkel Mime Theatre

Nitiprayan, No. 43 B, RT 01, RW 20 Ngestiharjo, Yogyakarta Telp. 085726817576 Email. benk_mime@yahoo.co.id www.bengkelmimetheatre.com 16

singing, acrobatics and so on. The mime actors must go into psychology, sociology, history, literature and many other things to be able to understand what they are trying to say through the mute performance.” Although BMT does not hold regular performances in Jogja, the group actively holds roadshows with performances and workshops in various cities in Indonesia. When not hosting their own roadshows, BMT sometimes performs with other like-minded communities or establsihed insitutions to perform or give workshops. The group’s future dream is to build a mime school. “Not just a course. Learning mime cannot be done instantly, it takes commitment and totality... It is a long process to get there, “ Wahyudi says. Their commitment to process is evidenced by the long rehearsal that the group holds, every time they prepare for a performance. For a single show, they take about two-six months to prepare. “We have dialogue, we analyze what we do, we make adjustments, improvisations and everytime we go deeper into the subject. We have no fixed script, each of us is free to explore our imagination adding more into the scene and the story. Afterwards, we then compress all the ideas to fit in a certain duration,” explains Wahyudi enthusiastically.

Photo: Courtesy of Bengkel Mime Theatre

hrough nine years of experience diving into mime performing art, Andy Sri Wahyudi and friends from the local Jogja Bengkel Mime Theatre (BMT), are finding an alternative and comedic way to express themselves beyond the boundaries of conventional performance. The mimes’ funny costumes and makeup, coupled with their animate movement and expressions make audience members smile, and even sometimes illicit intense, “rolling on the floor” laughter. Without saying a word, mime actors communicate and interact with each other and with their audience using just body language and facial expressions. “Mime is more than just entertainment,” Wahyudi insists. This is a major concern of the BMT mime actors. “Mime could embrace almost everything, included traditional and modern dance,

Words: Deti Lucara

- Andy, mime actor and Bengkel Mime Theatre co-founder

Advertorial

Cuba Libre, jackpot for beer lovers A cozy lounge, lovely friends, and great drinks

eer, friends and a cozy place: these are three key ingredients for a perfect evening, which are all conveniently available at Cuba Libre. Located in Seturan, which has recently developed as a new hangout area in Jogja, Cuba Libre stands out with a unique concept of open cafe and lounge in a cozy, breezy and nice setting. This tropical cafe and lounge overlooks rice fields, and is built with exotic ethnic architectural design. A mixture of brick, wood and bamboo building materials help the place blend perfectly with its natural surroundings. Cuba Libre has two floors of large, chill areas. Hung on brick walls, are photographs of Hollywood movie stars and world musicians, giving a nice touch for interior decorations. The long fabrics that cover the ceiling and colorful lanterns create a dramatic and romantic ambience. The lounges are incredibly soft and comfortable, pinning everyone down on them all night long. Sliding deep into enjoyment, time will past by so quickly. Glass after glass of beers flowing smoothly in between chatter, giggles and laughter, accompanied by live reggae music and top 40 on Tuesday and Friday nights. The beer lovers will find themselves hitting the jackpot here. Meanwhile, smoking shisha and playing pool are fun activities you and your best companions can opt into. As a new venue, which was founded one and a half years ago, Cuba Libre manages to be a viable and vibrant hangout place

in Jogja. Experienced bartenders will give you the best shots. If you crave more lively drinks than beer, try cocktail delights Cuba Libre, Summer Rum or Berry Breeze to spark your night. Meanwhile, a wide selection of tasty Indonesian and western food will satisfy your hunger at fair prices. All you need for great fun and hanging out can be found here, no wonder this place gets a lot of compliments from customers. “Cuba Libre is my favorite hangout place in Jogja,” said Teresa Lanvers, German. Meanwhile Sander Spaan from the Netherlands said, “After a year of living in Jogja, I would have never thought to find a place like Cuba Libre here. The place offers anything ranging from food till a night of entertainment for reasonable price. A nice setting combined with friendly staff!”

Jl. Melon 12, Mundu Saren, Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 4533773 19

Javanese health secret

BERAS KENCUR T

lethargic and listless. Conditions where appetiteloss occurs are quite common in tropical regions, whereby sometimes a habit can be formed of avoiding nutritious foods which is unfortunately not a trivial thing amongst the population here. Obviously, the body will then lack substances that are actually needed to move and grow. If neglected, this problem can seriously affect the development and growth of the brain and body. As a traditional doctor I know the benefits of beras kencur to reverse such habits. Additional benefits of beras kencur are: prevents colds, prevents ulcers, helps eliminate fatigue, improves menstrual cycles, removes phlegm (expectorant properties), relieves dizziness, nausea and abdominal bloating. Recipe for a typical beras kencur drink (7-8 cups): • Rice powder 200 grams • Kencur powder 50 grams • Ginger powder 50 grams • 2 pieces of pandan leaves • fenugreek 1/2 teaspoon • 10 pieces crushed Cardamom • Cubeb pepper 1/2 teaspoon • Palm Sugar 300 grams • Water 1500 ml • Salt to taste Blend to a puree and boil with water. In order to help your Qi emit a radiant look, now try and make this recipe for beras kencur and enjoy this delicious brew!

Words & Photo: Moko Pramusanto

his popular drink is made essentially from rice-powder and kencur (galangal root). The combination of the two offers proven health benefits. According to Javanese belief, kencur philosophically has a power named mancur here, which strengthens stamina (it shines by emitting radiant energy in the body). Beras kencur is known to have the following properties: increases appetite, helps eliminate aches and fatigue, helps eliminate heartburn and cough. Additionally, it is believed to enhance male vitality when mixed with honey. Cosmetically, the mix is often used in skin care, for example, to whiten and tighten the skin as well as strengthening and polishing the hair. Kencur (galangal root) itself, known all over Southeast Asia, has a strong presence in Javanese traditional medicine culture and thus has always been extensively grown for this health purposes, finding its way also into Javanese cuisine, phyto-pharmacy and major jamu industrial products. This traditional beverage, if blended with a variety of other natural ingredients apparently has appetite stimulating properties. Javanese moms know the benefits of this drink for children who do not want to eat. It moreover benefits children who appear

Active Jogja

More than Just Indian Food Stretch Out and Relax in Sangam House’s Yoga Studio

Sangam House Jl. Pandega Siwi 14, Jl. Kaliurang, KM. 5,6 Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 562132 email: sangamjogjakarta@gmail.com

Packaged classes must be used in a month: 8 classes: IDR 320,000 4 classes: IDR 170,000 or IDR 50,000 / class

Photos: Courtesy of Sangam House

“Jadi tenang dan seimbang,” or “be calm and balanced,” said instructor Pak Yadia, Sangam holistic and hatha teacher, when explaining the benefits of his classes. Yadia emphasized relaxation and safety as central components to his classes. “Ikut… bukan untuk agama. Itu universal,” meaning joining the class is not about religion, yoga is universal. Also among these yoga gurus is Sebastian Pucelle, who hails from France and is well-known in yoga circles in the region. He has toured across Asia with fellow yoga instructor and wife Mumu, teaching yoga and both have been at Sangam since the beginning. The studio has been open since July 2009, only a short few months after the restaurant first opened in April the same year. When partners Elbaz and chef Martin Surbakti decided to open Sangam House, they really had an idea of how all the details could come together to create a zen atmosphere: the garden setting, the small collection of books on yoga, the shop, the yoga studio, meditation classes, the food, the list goes on. “We even have a special yoga menu with light food,” Surbakti explained, differentiating it from the heavier, more traditional Indian dishes that comprise the rest of the menu.

Words: Julianne Greco

here’s no shortage of yoga studios in Yogyakarta, but if you are yearning for a small studio with outstanding gurus and a relaxed atmosphere, look no further than Sangam House, right off of Jl. Kaliurang and North Ring Road. While Sangam House is known for its Indian cuisine, the place is more than just a restaurant. Sangam’s studio offers five different types of yoga classes six days a week. “The whole atmosphere around you is like doing yoga in India,” said Jean-Pascal Elbaz, co-owner of Sangam. One trip to Sangam and it is clear what Elbaz is talking about: the restaurant décor transports you to India with its bright colored walls, Hindu wall hangings and sculptures, not to mention the place’s lush green garden in the middle. The attached yoga studio is minimalist with high ceilings, ivory colored walls and Indian accent pillows—all making for a calming vibe. “I think total relaxation when I come here,” Razia Azizi, UGM exchange student, shared. Azizi, originally from Afghanistan (but Holland resident for the last 15 years), economizes by buying the eight-class package so she knows she will get in her yoga time each month. “When I have time, I just come here.” Class sizes are small, typically ranging from two to eight students, which means up close and personal time with instructors. The studio shares its instructors with the studio at ViaVia on Jl. Prawirotaman, there are about seven who teach at ViaVia in the morning and Sangam in the evening.

POrtraiT of jogja

Wisdom in a Keris Young Jogja Craftsman Explains the Value of Keris

hat is how Empu Tejo Bagus Suharno describes the knowledge of making keris (Empu is a title for a keris maker). For Suharno, in this life, there is certain knowledge that cannot be written and should not be written. Because once some knowledge is written, it can be manipulated and used for corrupt purposes—like if it is misused by those who are in power to establish and maintain their authorities— according to Suharno. Keris is an asymmetrical dagger prevalent in Indonesian culture and is also found in Malaysia, Thailand, Brunei and Singapore. A good keris is made of iron ore and meteor stone, is sometimes coated with gold and rare wood is used as a handle and sheath. For the Javanese, the keris is more than just a weapon. Various mystical powers are attributed to it, like empowering its owner with charisma and charm, as a talisman, or for the sake of status and prestige. An empu is basically a blacksmith who is not 24

Tejo Suharno Suharno Jl. Godean km 9, Mandungan RT I / RW 4 Tel. 081335942791

Photo: Arifin

- Empu Bagus, a keris maker.

Words: Deti Lucara

“Don’t dry the wet knowledge, don’t wet the dry knowledge,”

just an artist and metallurgist, but also has a deep understanding of life. “The knowledge about keris is the wisdom of life itself. There is no manual guidebook that can clearly describe what life is. To be able to understand it, all we can do is live, observe it and learn from mistakes that occur along the way, to be a better one,” Suharno says. This is the reason why he collects the unfinished keris he makes. “I don’t collect the good keris, I collect the failed and unfinished ones instead, because they are the reminder for me to not repeat the same mistakes,” he states. Based on Suharno’ philosophy, the ability of an empu is honed and forged through the years of experiences and a lot of mistakes made. Given his young age of 33, Suharno feels he does not deserve to be called Empu, since that title is often reserved for more senior men of around 70-80 years old. But the way he sees life is profound, and his work is recognized by many people and even his homemade keris has spread to many countries. “Some foreigners ordered keris from me, and they take it back to their countries,” Suharno says. He is currently working on a keris gilded in a Javanese-Balinese-Chinese style, ordered by the Taiwan National University of Arts. This keris is intricately made, and it will be stored in the university’s collection. At last, a keris is a summary of the wisdom of life itself. “Since the preparation until the final touch of making keris, a keris maker should be in a good mood, equipped with high discipline and skill, and fill the keris with the good prayers and energy. All is recorded in each curve, in each layer of iron, and on every detail engraving. The shape of keris symbolizes the way of life of its owner, and the motif and style is a symbol of hope,” he explains. Every keris is made to be personal yet universal. It represents the relationship with the creator, with the owner and with life itself.

INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH

RISTA LARA ROSANTI

Marketing Manager of Cu

Can you tell us a little about this restaurant? Cupuwatu restaurant was established in March 2013, with a menu mainstay Malon (manuk londo, or foreign birds) to give a different touch in the culinary world in Jogja. Malon was actually French quail, which we named locally so that people can relate to it. Our parent company has long been concerned with quail farms, before opening this restaurant.

‘‘

Changing The Way Locals View Quail Cuisine

Please explain to us about Malon in the menu here. Our mainstay menu is Malon barbeque, Malon Peking, Malon bakar Klaten (grilled) and Malon bumbu kuning (curry-like dish). We adopt various styles of food, namely western, oriental, and local Javanese food to give wide range of options for consumers. All of the menu has a taste of its own that’s worth a shot, however, the most common request is Malon barbeque.

Photo: Mika Guritno

www.cupuwaturesto.com

Words: Deti Lucara

Cupuwatu Restaurant Komplek Grand Cupuwatu Jl. Solo. KM. 11.8, Kalasan, Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 4469261

What made them decide to open a restaurant? We want to change the way society views quail cuisine. So far, locals see quail as a middle-low class cuisine. The low quality of quail meat which is sold in local markets causes it. Quail is seen as a laying animal, when these laying quails are old and no longer productive, the farmers sell their meat. This type of meat is the lowest grade since it is small, hard to chew, and less yummy. This is what locals used to consume, no wonder if they don’t really like it. Opposite of that, we provide only the best quail from the top grade, original breed of the French quail. It gives tender texture of the meat, large size, and tastes delicious. Because in France alone, quail cuisine is quite prestigious.

LARA ROSANTI

of Cupuwatu Resto

How has the public responded to it? Their response is pretty good, the total amount of consumers who come to our restaurant continues to increase each month. Although we are just seven months old, many of our consumers keep coming back and become loyal customers. It is our pleasure to give the best of the real quail cuisine, and we believe in years to come we can gain more customers. Can you recommend the best Malon dishes for kids and elderly? Children usually love fried crisp, therefore Malon yellow spice suits them. Meanwhile, for the elderly, they tend to have Malon bakar Klaten, because this dish has a long process to cook and it gives soft and tender meat texture which is easy for the elderly to chew. Besides Malon, what kind of food this restaurant has to offer? In addition, we present many Javanese cuisines here. All menus can be selected directly on the buffet table with a fast-food concept. It is intended for those who are busy and do not have much time to wait. But for those who have some more time, we recommend to order a la carte off the menu of Malon. What is the target forward? In the future we want to establish Malon as a signature dish of Jogja. So far we know gudeg is the food of Jogja, but moving forward, hopefully it can also be known as Malon dishes. We will also design takeaway packaging to carry malon in an easy way so customers can get it to-go.

TOP 10 EVENTS

NOVEMBER 2013

Jogja Book Fair 2013 Cinta Segitiga Buku|Musik|Kopi

1 - 7 Nov

Time: 9am-10pm Place: Gedung Mandala Bakti Wanitatama Yogyakarta Jl. Laksda Adi Sucipto No. 88 Phone: 0274 881361 / 08562961617 Entrance Fee: IDR 2k Jogja Book Fair is coming again, with the theme “Cinta Segitiga” or Love Triangle. The event comes with a new and fresh theme this year, combining books, music and coffee altogether. There will be book reviews, book tourism, a coffee lovers meeting, live music and much more.

EXHIBITION RALLY FOTOGRAFI

2 - 28 Nov

Time: 9am-9pm Place: Tirana Artspace, Jl Suryodiningratan Phone: 0274 411615 / 0818277073 Entrance Fee: Free Rally Photography comes again with the same theme “Climate Pic More Than Recycling and Planting” in response to the climate change issue. The best works will be exhibited at Tirana Artspace and winners will be granted prizes: IDR 5 million for the champion, IDR 3 million for runner-up, IDR 1.5 million for 3rd place and the five best pictures of jury selection will be granted IDR 750K each.

Malam Satu Suro (1 Muharram)

4 Nov

Time: 12am Place: Beteng Keraton Entrance Fee: Free New Year’s Eve of Islamic Java (1 Muharram) is coming. The Javanese celebrate with ‘tapa bisu’ or ‘a walk in silence’. The route starts from the Kraton (sultan’s palace) right at midnight, when the pilgrims walk to the north square (Alun-alun utara), and will move westward around the outer wall of the palace for about 4 km. Everyone is welcome to participate in this silent celebration.

Tamansari Festival

8 - 10 Nov

Time: 10am Place: Plaza Pasar Ngasem, Kompleks Wisata Taman Sari Phone: 0817265343 Entrance Fee: Free Taman Sari is a famous tourism destination with its legendary water castle. Apart from that, lined up at this festival are various cultural activities such as a bazaar, batik market, gamelan music, cuisine, a recycled artworks exhibition and urban farming.

Jogja International Mini Print Festival (JIMPF) 2013

15 - 30 Nov

Time: 10am - 4pm Place: ISI Gallery Jl. Parangtritis km. 6.5, Sewon, Bantul. Phone: 081539816190(Ria Novitri) 081328672943 (Syahrizal Pahlevi) Entrance Fee: Free Jogja International Mini Print festival (JIMPF) 2013 will be enlivened with some major events, namely: exhibition of the mini print artworks, graphic arts conference, workshops, performances art. JIMPF is pleased to welcome graphic arts enthusiasts to participate in this event, local and foreign artists alike. 28

Borobudur International 10K

17 Nov

Time: 8am-10am Place: Borobudur Temple Complex Phone: 0293 326534 Entrance Fee: TBD Liven up your exercise and run around UNESCO World Heritage Site and popular tourist destination Borobudur temple complex in a 10K road race. Runner’s will take off from the starting line, Pendopo Kantor Bupati, in Magelang, and will finish with a view of Borobudur. The race committee hopes to attract about 20,000 participants.

Economics Jazz XVIII

21 - 24 Nov

Time: 11am-8pm Place: Grand Pasific Hall, Jl. Magelang km 4.5 Phone: 081229191114 Entrance Fee: IDR 50k-350k Following last year’s success, Gadjah Mada University Faculty of Economics and Business once again holds Economicsjazz. Some prominent jazz musicians from Indonesia and abroad will be staged to satisfy jazz lovers, such as Casiopea an international jazz musician from Japan, as well as talented jazz musicians from Indonesia, namely Raisa, Didiek SSS and Idang Rasidji.

Indie Cloth Festival

22 - 24 Nov

Time: 9am-10pm Place: Jogja Expo Center, Jl. Raya Janti Phone: 085643700302 Entrance Fee: IDR 15k A big festival of clothing, presented to introduce local brands and bring indie clothing businesses closer to the public. More than 100 indie bands from Jogja and another cities will be on stage to enliven the event. The bands come from major cities in Indonesia such as Bandung, Solo, Jakarta, Magelang, Surabaya, Malang and many more.

5th Jogja International Heritage

23 - 24 Nov

Time: 7am Place: Prambanan Temple and Imogiri Village Phone : 0274 - 566728 Entrance Fee: ± IDR 45k Jogja Walking Association presents the 5th Jogja International Heritage Walk 2013, with the theme “Walk for Green and Community”. This annual event is held to promote walking as a healthy lifestyle, as well as promoting green tourism with a tree planting activity conducted by both local and foreign participants.

Padmanaba Funbike 2013

24 Nov

Time: 6.30am Place: Kridosono Court, Jl. Yos Sudarso Phone: 085743368088 Entrance Fee: IDR 30K This year, the event’s theme is “Srawung” which means “make friends”. The tagline, “Walang Goreng”, is an abbreviation of “warnai langkahmu dengan gowes bareng” (paint your life with cycling together). Supporting events will be held as well, such as blood donor action, bike art contest and awards for bike community “Sego Segawe” (which means bike to work and school).

SPOTLIGHT EVENT

Ngayogjazz,

Words: Deti Lucara

Photo: Sunarto Suket

bringing back the spirit of jazz as folk music In Indonesia, jazz is high class music that is usually performed exclusively in hotels, bars and cafes. This practice can be traced back to colonial time in the 1920s when jazz was pigeonholed as upscale entertainment for colonists and nobilities only. Yet looking back at its origins, jazz was not the music of the elite; it emerged among African Americans in the time of slavery. Ngayogjazz, founded since six years ago, seeks to bring jazz back as folk music that can be enjoyed by all walks of life. Since 2007, Ngayogjazz has been held in the local community in village grounds and stages have even been built on the front porches of local residents. The concept is eliminating the distance between the performers on the stage with the audiences, so as to

create interaction and spontaneous appreciation. Congratulations to the organizer who managed to bring so many prominent jazz musicians of national and international caliber onto the stage in such a modest way. Even more, the success of Ngayojazz is not only for established musicians, the event also brings up young musicians to present their work to the public. In addition, there is a session called ‘open jam’ where jazz musicians collaborate with traditional music and performing artists from around the community. A bazaar and the launching of a compilation album of local jazz artists are also held to ‘jazz’ up the feast. This year, the festival will take place Nov. 16, 12 - 10 p.m., in Sido Akur village tourism, about 10 km to the west of downtown Jogja.

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