JogjaMag July 2013 by Mika Guritno

FREE JULY 2013 #13

ENGLISH YOUR GUIDE TO DISCOVERING JOGJA

Breathtaking Beaches Eat, Pray & Swim Along Javaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Coast

ART|JOG 2013 6 - 20 July

LOCAL SPIDERMEN IN ACTION p. 12 30 NEW HOTELS IN 2014 Is that a good thing for Jogja? p. 22 TOP 10 EVENTS THIS MONTH

TOURIST DIRECTORY & MAPS

Over 1,000 local business listings www.jogjabagus.com

Contents

EDITOR’S NOTE Dear Readers, July’s issue of JogjaMag brings in our second year of publication with a few design changes and two new members to our full-time staff. We are excited by the growth, by the creative innovation coming in, and by sharing stories that range from Spidermen to hidden beaches, an unusual type of sate, and an expert’s look at the recent hotel boom. It takes much more than a village to produce this kind of magazine; it takes an entire city full of active businesses, artists, officials, students and tourists working together to create the vibrant daily life in and around Yogyakarta. To all of you, we say ‘thank you’, and look forward to bringing you more interesting eats and amazing places in the months and years to come.

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Breathtaking Beaches

08 12

INSPIRING JOGJA Garden of Miracles STREET FOOD Sate Kere

JAVANESE WISDOM Kejawen

JAVANESE HEALTH SECRET Suwuk

JOGJA UNDERGROUND The Spidermen of Jogja

All the best, Erik W. Jorgensen

JOGJAMAG STAFF FOUNDER & EDITOR CO-EDITOR

Sylvain Leroy Erik W. Jorgensen Sarah Herz

CONTENT MANAGER STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHER GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Anna Miranti Mika Guritno Atreda Wicaksi

COVER PHOTO

Sarah Herz

CUSTOMER SERVICE

Hevri Yanti

CONTRIBUTORS

Hendro Wijanarko Patrick Vanhoebrouck Moko Pramusanto

PTPMA. Mindo Jl. Mrican Baru No. 1D Caturtunggal Depok Sleman Yogyakarta Tel. 0274-583064

ADVERTORIAL Journey with Pamitran

PORTRAIT OF JOGJA Harry Van Yogya INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH Chairman of P.H.R.I. Jogja

Deti Lucara

Cecilia Morlacchi

MARKETING

TOP 10 EVENTS What’s Hapenning This Month TOURIST DIRECTORY Find What You’re Looking For

JOGJA MAPS City Map, Jl. Prawirotaman & Jl. Sosrowijayan Contact: 0274583064 (eng) 08562662373 (ind) cso@jogjastar.com

JogjaMag @jogjamag jogjamag.com

Previous Editions

restaurant - travel - guesthouse fair trade shop - yoga studio indonesian and world kitchen friday night jazz alternative tours and courses contemporary art exhibitions fair trade shop | yoga classes open daily from 7.30 am

jalan prawirotaman 30, jogjakarta, java, indonesia ph +62 274 38 65 57

www.viaviajogja.com | www.viaviacafe.com

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

BREATHTAKING BEACHES

Nguyahan beach

Javaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Coastline is Full of Hidden Surprises On a clear day you can look to the west of Yogyakarta and see a ridgeline that marks the border of a rugged mountain region known as Gunung Kidul (South Mountains). This distinctive topography is what provides visitors with a whole range of adventures that include hiking, caving, rafting, and combinations of all three. For beach lovers especially there are endless hidden coves and coastal views that will take your breath away. If you are short on time, but want a taste of the South Java Sea, there are three special locations you can see in one beautiful day trip.

Ngobaran Cliffside temples built in honor of ancestors and the legendary Queen of the South Sea, Ratu Kidul, are what greet you when you arrive at Ngobaran, just 40km from Yogyakarta. These temples represent the blend of religions that have entered Java over the centuries, with Hindu statues and Buddhist stupas, and which have been incorporated with the local spiritual belief

system, known as Kajawen (see Javanese Wisdom, p. 14). At low tide the rocky shores below reveal a wealth of marine life, and at high tide the waves crash against the cliffs. Hiking along the coastline, and climbing up to the more remote temples offers excellent photographic opportunities of the extreme environment that separates the land from the sea.

Nguyahan After taking in the cliffside views, it is a short walk over a small sandy ridge to Nguyahan beach. Here sleepy local stands offer refreshments along a wide stretch of white sand beach. Roll out your beach blanket under the shade of the cliffs or palm trees, and sip on kelapa muda (young coconut) while listening to the sounds of the waves and enjoying the cool sea breeze. On weekdays especially you will feel like the only visitor for miles, a welcome respite from the crowded streets and popular sites of Yogyakarta. Seaside farmland stretches out 5

behind you, and the combination of beach, and when the fish market is traditional agricultural life and the open you can select your prawns, Want to get the freshest dramatic landscape is perfect for tuna, john dory, squid, or crab seafood possible? photography and hiking excursions. right from the vendors. They Look for small fishing boats will happily clean and deliver entering Ngrenehanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bay. Ngrenehan your selection to the restaurant You can get your fish before owner of your choice, who will the boat touches shore. then cook it to your preference. Wow, now that is fresh! It is a pleasant, inexpensive way to have a local lunch after a long swim. These beaches are just a sample of the wealth of remote and peaceful destinations along the coastline south of Yogyakarta.

Ngrenehan beach

If you are feeling adventurous you can strike out to discover your own private cove. There is no official camping areas, but if you have brought a tent you can feel safe sleeping anywhere that is a reasonable distance from the water, with at most a small contribution to the local community, if there is any. Some shacks scattered along the coastline may have simple mattresses that you can rent for an overnight stay, but as the sun starts to come down you will still have plenty of time to return to your hotel in the heart of the city.

DIRECTIONS Scan me for directions to the beaches

Words: Sarah Herz

The Queen of the South can be illustrated as a mermaid, a beautiful girl, or an old woman. Myths claim that she takes the soul from anyone she wishes. According to local popular beliefs around coastal villages of Southern Java, the Queen often claim lives of fishermen or visitors that bathe on the beach, and she usually prefers handsome young men, or those wearing green.

Ngobaran beach

Photos: Sarah Herz, Sylvain Leroy

Ready to dive in and enjoy the beautiful waters of the South Java Sea? One of the best places to swim along this area of coastline is less than a ten minute ride from Ngobaran and Nguyahan. The road entering Ngrenehan passes by more quiet farmland, and ends at a quiet fishing village in a cove protected by the arms of cliffs on both sides. This natural pool is safe to swim and shallow enough that anyone can wade in a few meters and enjoy the cool refreshing water. When not at sea, the fishermen leave their boats in a colorful row, displaying the tools of their trade that have not changed for generations. A row of nearly empty restaurants line the cliffside away from the

INSPIRING JOGJA

GARDEN OF MIRACLES Milas creates a haven for street children Children planting during Milas playgroup program.

Restaurant Hours: Tuesday – Friday 15.00 – 21.00 Saturday – Sunday 12.00 – 21.00 Closed on Monday

Organic Market Hours: Wednesday and Saturday 8.00 – 11.00

Words: Deti Lucara

Address: Jl. Pawirotaman IV 127 B Telp. 0274 7423399 milas_jogja@yahoo.co.id

wallets are available at Milas’ gallery. Meanwhile, Joker has found his passion in organic farming, and Arry found that the way to express his skill is in making educational toys from hardboard, and these are also available at the gallery. Some of them are now full time employees at Milas, and responsible for giving lessons in different skills to the street youth who come to the workshops. Ayus reflects that in this place she was taught to be independent and organize her future, while Joker has become more than he ever dreamed, “I never imagined I could travel to islands outside Java and teach people about organic farming,” he says. In addition to skills workshops, Milas also has other programs that mutually support each other and are integrated on their property. In the thousand meter square lot near Jl. Pawirotaman, you can find a fine vegetarian restaurant with a relaxed natural concept that is surrounded by beautiful gardens. Once you step into this place, you will be taken into a hidden world of treasures waiting in each corner, namely; Organic Corner, Craft Studio, Craft Gallery, Organic Gardening for Kids at Play Groups, Play Groups, Organic Market, and the Library. All the profits gained from the sales the restaurant and gallery are used to support programs to raise awareness about the environment, health, and education for society. Miracle seems to happen every day on this lovely piece of land, a place where healthy delicious food, natural scenery and good hearts meet.

Photos: Courtesy of MILAS

A teenage girl runs to catch the train, she goes up and down the cars, hanging dangerously to the doors before climbing on board. For three years this was Ayus, a young girl who sang on the streets in order to scrape together a few coins for food, before meeting a volunteer that cared about the street youth in Yogyakarta and led her to a social organisation called Milas. She joined others, like Joker and Arry, who were also originally living on the streets, and introduced to Milas in different ways. In this place, these young people found miracles that brought them brighter futures. They were taught a variety of skills which allowed them to leave tough lives on the streets and find new sustainable ways to make money and survive. Since 1997, Milas has been helping street youth with the aim of making them self-sufficient. At Milas’ workshops, street youth are taught different skills, until they find their own passions and start focusing on them. Milas lends start-up capital for those who show great skills, so they can produce crafts and sell them in the Milas gallery. With open arms and hearts, they receive any youth with problems and help them to change their lives for the better. Milas recognizes though, that changes must first come from the street children themselves, and some do not complete a training period in Milas, but return to the streets. Those who do stay are able to learn new, self sufficient skills that keep them off the streets. Today, Ayus is twenty-six years old and has discovered her passion for sewing, and her bags and

STREET FOOD

Jogja’s sate vendors offer something juicy

tamarind, palm sugar, and soy sauce. Sate o n Java is traditionally served on a banana leaf with peanut sauce and soy sauce. You can add pieces of chili to give it a spicy sensation. Sate can be a stick grilled with nearly any kind of meat; such as beef, pork, chicken, goat, mutton, fish, tempeh, and variations in between. But there is one type of sate that is particularly unusual: marinated beef fat. Known as sate kere, this rare find is specific to Yogyakarta, with national tourists, as well as locals, promoting its unique and delicious taste. Sate kere is generally sold from a mini charcoal stove that is carried in on the head of a woman. To make sure you’ve found the right vendor notice the sate’s characteristics; white and hard before it is cooked, and then turning into a tempting chewy brown after grilling. Absolutely the best way to eat this sate is while it is still hot, just after being picked up from the stove. Once you bite in, the warm fat melts in the mouth, giving a rich delicious sensation of sweet and savory flavors. Relish the guilty pleasure in each bite, and experience one of the more adventurous Yogya treats. If you have guts to try this food, go to the front gate of the Beringharjo traditional market on Jl. Malioboro at noon, where you will find a sate vendor sitting on a small bench. In the early evening, another vendor can be found in the South Square.

Africa, and as far north as the Netherlands. In 2011, CNN put it on the list as #14 of the World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods readers’ poll. The diced meat is punctured with skewers made from the midrib of the coconut palm frond, or bamboo, and then marinated in spicy seasonings that consist of onion, salt, pepper,

Sate kere should cost from Rp1,000 - 2,000 for each skewer.

QUICK TIP Enjoy this food directly off the grill, as it will turn hard once it is cold.

Photo: Mika Guritno

Walking the evening streets of Jogja, the savory aroma of barbecuing meat on a charcoal fire wafts everywhere. The narrow street side grills billow abundant smoke that kindly volunteers itself to seduce every nose around. Commonly displayed in front of restaurants, in public areas such as parks, or at food stalls along the city streets, sate (satay) is considered one of the national dishes of Indonesia, with different varieties available throughout the country. Originating in Indonesia, sate can be traced back to Indian kebabs, which were introduced to Java and then adapted into a peanut-sauced delicacy, before spreading to Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, South

Words: Deti Lucara

SATE KERE

UNDERGROUND JOGJA

THE SPIDERMEN OF JOGJA They jump, they swing, they flip... they are the traceur

JUMPalitan (Parkour Jogja)

Don’t try any Parkour actions without first practicing under the supervision of experts!

Words: Deti Lucara

JUMPalitan Contact: Sentra Jaelani, 0817458448 12

in Jogja retain the philosophy initiated by David Belle. The idea is to reclaim the meaning of being and active, to move using natural methods and interact with the surroundings. This is especially important in Jogja, where public spaces in this city are quickly filled with rigid concrete buildings. One of the senior practitioners of JUMPalitan, Sentra Jaelani, says that Parkour is the art of physical training, mental discipline and the ability to overcome fears and obstacles. Since Parkour is a combination of rock climbing, obstacle races, gymnastics, and other acrobatic sports, it requires mastering basic techniques such as landing, balancing, accuracy, rolling, turning, jumping, climbing, and more. According to their philosophy, Parkour practitioners around the world reject all forms of competition. This sport is not about showing off and seeking glory or thrill, as these things will knock you down at some point. Parkour is about having great courage, a mature mind, and the physical and technical expertise to pass the normal limits of endurance. But most importantly, it is personal. “The real challenge is not about conquering skyscraper buildings, it is about conquering your own ego. Once you manage that, you go beyond...” says Sentra, before jumping over the stairs to join the other Spidermen in action.

Photo: Courtesy of Sentra

On a Sunday afternoon at a university campus in Yogyakarta, members of JUMPaliran run toward a building, stomping and leaping in their approach. With deft hands they grab small divots or protruding ledges, and gracefully climb up walls with movements that seem to defy gravity. These are the Traceur, or practitioners of Parkour. They athletically hop, swing, and stretch between seemingly impossible points of contact with the building, using their strength, agility, and experience to scale up and over their challenge, the man made structures around them. These Spidermen are part of Jogja’s Parkour community, which is a global movement founded by a man named David Belle in France, in the late 1980s. Belle began developing this urban sport and philosophy from lessons he learned from his father, who had a career first in the military and later as a firefighter. Parkour is derived from military training to overcome obstacles by using the entire body, and all surrounding objects available for moving quickly and efficiently. David realized by watching his father that the discipline of the body is a useful skill for survival and for saving others in emergencies. Belle’s passion and dedication to training is the foundation Parkour came from, and continues to inspire young, primarily urban people around the world. Despite being 15,000 kilometers away from France, Parkour practitioners

JAVANESE WISDOM

Ngelmu iku kelakone kanthi Laku Spiritual knowledge can only come through practice

KEJAWEN Mosques, Churches, and Temples, Oh My! The root of island harmony is in a religion you may have never heard of . . . In your travels through Java, you may have the opportunity to see modern religions practiced without hesitation alongside traditional ceremonies honoring spiritual connections with the invisible world of spirits and ancestors. The former can be seen in the daily fasting during the Muslim month of Ramadan, and the latter through the various annual ceremonies and sacred rituals held at graveyards around the city and Province (the Royal Cemetery of Imogiri, for example). This second element of local spiritual practice is a deeply ingrained facet of the Javanese culture, which manifests through the process of ‘inculturation’ of foreign faiths and local spiritual beliefs, called Kejawen (Javanism). On a spiritual level, Central and Eastern residents of Java who feel more authentically ‘Javanese’ with their worldview take great care to preserve ancient core animistic beliefs in ancestors, the surrounding spirit world, and the Hindu-Buddhist values of life and death. Even though they might declare themselves officially Muslim, Christian, Hindu or Buddhist, and follow these religious doctrines rigorously, Kejawen practitioners still attach strong importance to the power of their ancestors in what might be considered pagan by monotheistic religions. 14

The divergence from institutionalized religion is tied to the traditional Javanese worldview whereby ancestors, spirits, and certain gods play important roles in the universe and thus play determining roles in human life. Conversely, humans must develop their relationships with these invisible beings in order to achieve success or safety and avoid accidents or failures. The Kejawen spiritual knowledge of how to guarantee good things and avoid bad ones is called nglemu or Ilmu, and often integrates the participation of the metaphysical spirit realms. Essentially, these otherworldly beings are the carriers of numerous teachings for humans, good and bad, and through his or her reading of it, a human may advance to what is ultimately desired - a state of wisdom, or perfection. The act of practicing Kejawen is known as laku, or spiritually directed behavior. These ascetic exercises are philosophically encapsulated in the term tirakat, which is an abbreviation of ‘merihake ati’ or ‘wholehearted devotion’. The aim of tirakat is ‘ati kang raket’ or ‘unifying inner and outer dimensions of the body in order to propagate compassion’. Within their spiritual practice, Kejawen mystics attempt to only fill the mind with beneficial and righteous objects

performed here consist of purifying one’s mind and body, paying respect to the great ancestors and spirits guarding the island of Java, and then connecting mentally and metaphysically to the invisible dimensions. After asking for permission, by leaving some fragrant offerings of flowers and incense, the invisible forces are invoked, and everyone enters as best as he/she can into a deep meditative state. The point is to experience kasunyataan or emptiness, by which the secrets of one’s identity and existence will be revealed, and this mental condition will pave the way to acquire wisdom signs and realizations about how to act like a spiritual Warrior. The ultimate goal is to unite or fuse the servant’s mind with the Universal Omniscient Spirit (Manunggaling Kawulo Gusti). Beauty, self-confidence and life-giving power will ensue. The law of Karmic cycles will become clear to the practitioner, providing him/her with safety throughout his/her mortal existence. It is here, and in this way, that Kejawen continues to be the underlying spiritual fabric for the people of Central and Eastern Java. The root of the ability to integrate different religions and spiritual approaches can be understood through Tantularism, which is coined after an 9th century saint, Mpu Tantular who advocated for the value of non-doctrinal, religious, accommodating, tolerant and optimistic characteristics of a pan-Javanese philosophy. One of Tantular’s ideas, ‘Bhinneka ing Tunggal’ or ‘Unity in Diversity’ was adopted as the motto for the Indonesian Constitution by the founding fathers of the Republic of Indonesia in 1945.

i 15

Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck and Moko Pramusanto

of meditation. This allows for a mental foundation that reflects the reality of emptiness of identity to oneself termed ‘sarira bethara’ or ‘perfection of righteousness’. The criteria for such a mental attitude are as follows: • Right view • Right thoughts • Right speech • Right actions • Right living • Right work • Right perception • Right concentration (Semedi Benar) An interesting element of Kejawen is that no major buildings or faith communities are required for participation. Kejawen followers can practice their spirituality anywhere and at almost any time, alone or with a group. That being said, there are spots and sites which are favored for channeling energy as well as certain times of the day which are considered more auspicious. Many of the preferred places to practice spirituality and ritual offerings to ancestors are located on or near the south coast of the island. This preference is connected to the belief that the famous mythological Queen of the South Sea, Ratu Kidul, who is sometimes known as Kanjeng Ibu (The Mother), rules the world of Javanese spirits and ancestors. Many spots along this coast are related to legendary stories involving spiritually powerful ancestors explaining the attraction of Javanese mystics towards the sea in their search for wisdom. One of these sacred sites is called Ngobaran (see Destination of the Month), and is named after the cremation (kobaran) of the last great Hindu-Buddhist King Brawijoyo V, which allegedly took place here in the late 15th century. The site is known as a gathering place of invisible spirits and ancestors, and rituals

ADVERTORIAL

JOURNEY WITH PAMITRAN Tourism Based on Friendship

Yogyakarta is the second most popular tourist destination in Indonesia after Bali, and as a result diverse tourism businesses are growing rapidly these days. In the midst of fierce competition Pamitran, which means “friendship” in Javanese, distinguishes itself with wholehearted service and a personal approach that emphasizes the feeling of being a new best friend to each of their customers. The company was founded by a lovely Indonesian-Dutch couple, Arya and Charlotte (Charly), who are engaged in motorbike rentals, tour and travel services, and running a homestay. Starting in late 2009, this business was pioneered by Arya, who began by renting out his family’s motorbikes. From the beginning, he realized it is essential to give the best possible service to his customers. He personally delivered motorbikes to his customers and picked them up when they

were done. Many of those first months saw him taking public transportation or walking home after dropping off a motorbike. Early in 2010, Arya visited the Netherlands and met some new friends who asked him to help organize their trip to Indonesia. From this foundation of friendship, he attracted more customers and began to expand his business to include a full tour and travel agency in addition to his motorbike rental service. Starting with only 2 motorbikes for rent, Arya and Charly have worked hard to be where they are today. Pamitran now has 100 motorbikes on the streets, and the tour packages they have to offer are increasingly diverse, covering Java, Bali, Lombok, Flores, Sumatra and other places in Indonesia. By the end of 2012, they had established their third business, homestay Ndalem Mbak Charly, which is dedicated to Arya’s wife (Ndalem means home, and Photo: Courtesy of PAMITRAN Words: Deti Lucara

Room rates of the homestay: Rp 90,000 – 120,000/night. Facilities include AC or fan, 21” flat screen TV, drinks, kitchen, and hot shower.

Mbak means Miss in Javanese). The homestay is situated in a central location, near to a number of reputable universities in Yogyakarta. Arya and Charly maintain good relationships with their customers by giving more than what is expected. There is a special discount for loyal customers of their motorbike rental business, and for those who take a tour package they are invited to get involved in developing an extraordinary trip. Pamitran doesn’t just take guests to highlighted destinations such as Prambanan temple, Borobudur temple, or Bromo mountain, they also promote alternative trips. “Indonesia is diverse; interesting culture, ancient treasures and breathtaking nature. We leave it entirely to customers to determine how they want to travel through this fantastic country. It is a combination of individual freedom and the security of a whole organized tour,” Arya explained. Their signature personal approach is also applied to the guests of their homestay. “We always treat them like our best friends, to make them feel comfortable, like being at home,” Charly added. They seem to never tire of satisfying their customers’ needs and providing an outstanding experience for each of their guests. The testimonies from their clients confirm this, as Olga Megens from Netherlands writes in her testimony on their website, “Last year I have been to Indonesia with a friend. Arya showed us his country with much enthusiasm and showed us places where we never would have come if he wasn’t with us. It was really amazing and he did a very, very good job! He showed us how the people in Indonesia live their lives and how beautiful the country and culture is... so I really, really recommend traveling with Arya and Charlotte!”

All leased motorbikes are new with automatic and semi-automatic available. Prices start from Rp 40,000/day. 17

JAVANESE HEALTH SECRET

SUWUK

Blowing Prayers of Purity

“NIYATINGSUN MACA KIDUNG, SING GEDHE TUNGGU BAL, SING KAWUK THENGUK-THENGUK, SING AMBA TADHAH AMIN, INGSUN ANA SATENGAHING LAWANG DENGAL PLANANGAN, SIRA AJA WURUK SUDI GAWE JABANG BAYINE (....say the name of the patient), SIRA SUMINGKIRA PANGGONANMU ANA ING ARA-ARA AMBA, PAKANANMU GRAGAH RAYUNG, YEN ORAN SUMINGKIR TAK ATURAKE RATU GUSTIKU. “ “My intention is to read this sacred verse. Its power is filling the Universe, returning Peace amongst the little creations, and its spaciousness as in a house of faith. I’m located in the middle of the gate by the Penis. Activated through the hairs of this child … (say the name of the child). Leave now for the vast grassy plain which is your home and where you find your sugarcane food in ample amounts. If you do not go I will order your Lord the Creator to chase you.” After reading this spell out loud, blow onto the crown of the head and ears as many as 3 times. This blowing should be made with a strong suggestion of evacuating negative energies from the body of the patient.

Words: Moko Pramusanto

source of a human’s later development in life: it is a state of near-complete mental purity and innocence, an early untainted format of the person’s mind. The energy at the genital level (similar to Mooladhara in the 7 Chakras theory) can be coerced by the shamanic healer to be re-formatted to that initial stage of the mind, that purity in birth. The belief further goes on that by mentioning the genitals, many diseases or psychological disturbances may be easily overcome and healing will ensue. A whole list of mantras exist where the mentioning of genitals occurs in combination with specifically targeted directives, which are then recited above the head of the suffering person, accompanied by a blowing that carries inner power or by spraying a medium of purifying water over the crown of the head and around the ears.

Photo: Patrick Vanhoebrouck

Suwuk is Javanese for the therapeutic treatment of using certain spells and readings by blowing or spraying them with water onto the ears or the top of the head of adults and children who are suffering anxieties and nervous attacks. Suwuk is also called teguh patimbulan (firm uprooting), as when a child is sick the parents may say, “Come let’s go root out that pain by [help of] the elder ya?”. Suwuk or teguh patimbulan is not only used to treat physical pain, but also can be used if a child displays a strange behavior or acts mischievously (for example, seldom obedient). It is believed that after a suwuk treatment, the soul of a child will respond accordingly by showing a change in behavior. In practice, this suwuk is applied by blowing a spell over the head, yet other methods exist by which water is sprayed or even spit is used. Clean water, spit or water mixed with flowers can function as a medium for the shaman to transfer the spell or mantra onto the soul of the child. The casting of a suwuk uses primarily ancient japa mantra (Javanese spells) which sometimes may seem awkward to an outside observer. Commonly, the mantra will mention the male or female genitals of the child, which may be interpreted by outsiders as funny or shockingly pornographic. Yet the reason for the dukun (shaman) to mention the genitals is because of a traditional Javanese belief linked to the origin of the human birth. Mantras which mention the genitals are considered ampuh (powerful spells), since the birth is related to the root

PORTRAIT OF JOGJA

HARRY VAN YOGYA Twitter is just the beginning for this pedaling entrepreneur

Harry Van Yogya @becakcitytour

“I love the streets, because I love the freedom.”

Words: Deti Lucara

He will be the one with a Blackberry in hand. 20

modern world as pedaling a becak. He began signing up with various social media accounts starting with Friendster, then on to Multiply, Facebook, and then Twitter. Slowly his words became famous, leading him to regularly write columns for national newspapers, appear on TV, speak at universities, and even publish a book called “The Becak Way” (2011). Even with all this media, Harry still sees days without a single customer. Being on the streets, exposed to the elements, getting sunburned and soaked in the rain is not a life many of us would choose. Pedaling a becak everyday is hard work. But Harry finds excitement in this job. “To be honest, I do not like working in an office. I love the streets, because I love the freedom. And I enjoy the freedom at all costs. For me, ‘enjoying’ is an important keyword in a job. What’s the point having a great “I love the streets, job with a big salary, if we don’t because enjoy it?” he says frankly, I love the freedom.” while updating his twitter.

Photos: Mika Guritno

Looking down Jl. Pawirotaman, one of the famous tourist areas in Yogja, you will see a long row of shops, boutiques, hotels, restaurants and cafes. Among these, there is an unusual scene that might catch your eye: a becak driver sitting in his becak, busily working on a laptop, while occasionally turning to his Blackberry. From his seat, he is tweeting with thousands of followers via @becakcitytour. Born Blasius Harryadi, today this social media wizard is known as Harry Van Yogja. Harry is a one of a kind becak driver, who posts funny, inspiring, and sometimes political tweets regularly through his smartphone, in between periods of pedaling his becak for locals and tourists. His tweets now reach more than 9,500 followers and even the President of Indonesia, SB Yudhoyono, follows @becakcitytour. Addiction to social media began with Harry’s sociable nature and desire to share. Whenever he gives a lift to customers, Harry takes time to greet and chat with them, getting to know more about where they are from, and why they are visiting his fine city. His natural affability is what brought him, in the late 90s, to befriend an American tourist who in turn introduced him to email and Yahoo Messenger so that they could remain in contact. Over time, Harry discovered that the internet is an effective way for Find Harry and his becak in front of Wisma promotion, even for an Gajah Guest House occupation so seemingly almost everyday. separated from the

INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH

THE CHAIRMAN

OF HOTEL & RESTAURANT ASSO KRHT. Drs. H. Istidjab M. Danunegoro, MM Please tell us a little about Indonesia Hotel and Restaurant Association? Indonesia Hotel and Restaurant Association was established in 1969 with the aim of promoting and developing businesses in the hospitality sector. We have representative offices in many regions across Indonesia, but our office here focuses on Jogjakarta. The hospitality sector includes businesses like hotels, restaurant, catering, food services and other tourism related services. One of our main tasks is to classify hotels and restaurants in terms of grades or levels.

Secretariat: Taman Kuliner Condong Catur Blok K-10, Anggajaya III, Condong Catur, Sleman 0274 9329495 phridiy@yahoo.com

Photo: Mika Guritno

We have had seven star rated hotels open this year... another 30 are expected in 2014.

Is the growth of hotels balanced with the number of tourists coming? The indicator that best answers this question is the hotel occupancy rate. When the rate is above 60% this normally indicates that the hospitality industry in the area is healthy and doing fine. Based on data from the Central Bureau of Statistics on the hotel occupancy rate in 2012, there is actually a bit of concern. The star hotel’s occupancy rate for 2012 reached 55.5%, while the non-star hotel’s rate is only 35%. We are seeing that upscale hotels which are supported by good management and have a promotion

Words: Deti Lucara

Office: Grand Quality Hotel Jl. Adisucipto 48, Yogyakarta 0274 485005 istidjabmd@yahoo.com

We know that Jogjakarta is Indonesia’s second largest tourist destination after Bali. Can you describe the hospitality industry in Jogjakarta now and where do you see it going in the near future? Tourism is an asset with extreme potential for a local economy. Because of this we find the Regents competing amongst each other in order to bring more tourism to their particular area. They do this by making building permits easier to obtain and trying to show investors why there area is unique. As a result, we have seen a lot of new hotels appear in this city. Based on our data in 2012 there were 54 star rated hotels with 5,200 rooms, and 1,100 non-star rated hotels with 11,000-12,600 rooms. So far this year we have already had 7 star rated hotels open, with approximately 1000 rooms. And in 2014, there is expected to be another 30 new hotels.

OCIATION OF JOGJAKARTA strategy are succeeding. Their occupancy rate in the low season never falls too far below the 60% mark. But for non-star hotels they find it difficult to pursue this target, especially in the non-tourism season. What does PHRI do related to this issue? We have suggested to the Regents and to the Mayor of Jogjakarta that they ought to be more selective and not give hotel building permits so easily. We believe that by better optimizing our existing hotels we can meet tourism demand and see hotels occupancy rates increase. What is the actual contribution of the hospitality and restaurant industry for the local economy? Hotels and restaurants contribute significantly to local revenue. The hospitality sector is the second largest economic contributor here, after the services sector. Also, in order to help further improve our local economy, our association advises hotels and restaurants to give priority to local people in their recruitment activities. By doing this, hotels and restaurants take responsibility for their community and help to reduce local unemployment numbers. How do you see the tourism industry in Jogja for the next 5 years, and what challenges are faced? Tourism in Jogja will never die. We have ups and downs, but tourism will always be here and be an important part of our local economy. In the years ahead I believe the hospitality sector will adapt and innovate. In terms of challenges we need to find ways to have tourists stay for a longer visit. On average, tourists stay in Jogja for between about 3-7 days. But there are still many tourists who arrive in Jogja in the morning and leave the city in the evening. They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stay through the night. This is caused by the lack of night attractions currently in Jogja. If we look at Bali, Singapore, or Thailand these areas are rich in a variety of interesting night attractions. In the future, I am hopeful that Jogja can be more dynamic and innovative in addressing this matter.

TOP 10 EVENTS JULY 2013

Jogja Fashion Week

3 – 7 July

Time: 9am - 9pm Place: JEC (Jogja Expo Centre), Jl. Raya Janti Phone: 0274 451001 Entrance Fee: Free Jogja Fashion Week 2013 will organize several events including fashion exhibitions, fashion shows, seminars, and a fashion carnival on the street. This is the 8th year of the Jogja Fashion Week and the chosen theme is “Symphony Khatulistiwa”, with inspiration that comes from ethnic fashion and national style to show the world the uniqueness of Indonesia’s fashion design. More than 150 national fashion designers will participate in this year’s event.

Indonesian craft and tourism expo

3 – 7 July

Time: 9am - 9pm Place: JEC (Jogja Expo Centre), Jl. Raya Janti Phone: 0274 451001 Entrance Fee: Free Indonesian Craft & Tourism Expo 2013 is an exhibition for national fashion products, handicrafts and the tourism potential of different regions throughout Indonesia. This is a promotion where you can get the latest textiles, metals, carvings, paintings, calligraphy, jewelry, furniture, home supplies, info on potential tourist destinations and more. A great event for entrepreneurs, potential buyers, and tourists.

Photography Exhibition

5 – 7 July

Time: 9pm Place: PKKH Universitas Gajah Mada, Jl. Pancasila Bulaksumur Phone: 0274 557317, Fax. 0274 6492001 Entrance Fee: Free The “Dolanan Jaman Biyen” exhibition is focused on recording the ancient games that are dissapearing in the era of globalization. The exhibition’s goal is to inspire a sense of caring, belonging and desire to preserve the ancient games of Indonesia’s culture.

Closing Party Feat. DJ Schizo

6 July

Time: Late Nite Place: Republic Positiva Cafe and Lounge, Jl. Malioboro No. 60 Phone: 0274 560853 Entrance Fee: Rp50,000 (Includes 1 Free Drink) A product of the 70s in Virginia, USA; DJ Schizo (SchizoDJ) is on a mission to bring something different to the music scene. A.K.A. Bryan “B” (B-boy), DJ Schizo, and plain ole Schizo. Beware of imitators! Search “SchizoDJ” to find him in Google. He says, “I love everything that makes noise, and I love to make people dance”.

ART|JOG 13

6 – 20 July

Time: 9am - 9pm Place: Taman Budaya Yogyakarta, Jl. Sri Wedani No. 1 Phone: 0274 523512 / 0274 561914 Entrance Fee: Free ART|JOG is the premier contemporary art exhibition in Indonesia. In contrast to other art expos, ART|JOG exclusively features contemporary Indonesian artwork, from young talent outside of the mainstream to Indonesian’s most famous professional artists. This year’s theme is Maritime Culture and should not be missed.

6 – 7 July

Yogyakarta Gamelan Festival

Time: 7pm Place: Plasa Pasar Ngasem, Jl. DI. Panjaitan No. 41 Phone: 0274 7477717 Entrance Fee: Free This is the 18th year of the Yogyakarta Gamelan Festival (YGF). Each year, YGF entertains more than 1000 audience members through a series of performances presented by musicians and gamelan enthusiasts from all over the world.

Dobrak! Art Exhibition

7 July - 20 August

Time: 7.30pm Place: Cemeti Art House, Jl. DI.Panjaitan No. 41 Phone: 0274 371015 Entrance Fee: Free Dobrak! is an art exhibit on the positive interpretations of breaking: breaking with tradition, breaking with pre-conceived perceptions, breaking stereotypes, breaking boundaries to chart new territories, and more. Research and cross-disciplinary collaboration are key to the development of this project. Artists paired with anthropologists, sociologists and historians on fieldwork trips to gather information before creating their work.

Ramadhan Culinary

10 July - 7 August

at Kauman Afternoon Market Time: 3pm Place: Jl. Kauman, Gondomanan I/34 Phone: 0274 587486 Entrance Fee: Free An annual Ramadhan Culinary Fair is located in a small alley, 1km long, on Jl. Kauman, Gondomanan, in Yogya. Upon entering the market gate, you will see a wide selection of foods and beverages which commonly appear during Ramadan, the holy month of Islam. Treat yourself by trying this excellent food. The market is open from 3pm until Maghrib (6pm).

Handicraft and Souvenir Exhibition

21 July

in Suryatmajan Time: 9am Place: Suryatmajan (Jambu Village), Jl. Mas Suharto Phone: 0274 587486 Entrance Fee: Free Jambu village in Suryatmajan is an industrial village of handicraft and souvenirs. The exhibition will be held on Jl. Mas Suharto, featuring the artisans in that area. The event is also supported by a culinary bazaar.

Linda Kaun Batik Exhibition

27 July - 4 August

Time: 7pm Place: Bentara Budaya, Jl. Suroto No. 2 Kotabaru Phone : 0274 560404 Entrance Fee: Free Linda Kaun is an American self-taught batik artist, who has been in the batik world since 1975. After running a batik clothing business for three years, she gradually moved into creating fine art batik paintings. Over the years she has led batik workshops, and other textile design techniques. She teaches in her studio as well as at a number of venues in Los Angeles, Alaska, Indonesia and Australia.

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