FREE AUGUST 2013 #14
ENGLISH
YOUR GUIDE TO DISCOVERING JOGJA
The Temple of
Love & Betrayal
p.5
10,000 KILOMETERS
One Couple’s Epic Journey p.8
MEET JOGJA’S HORSE WHISPERER WHAT’S HAPPENING THIS MONTH TOP 10 EVENTS THIS MONTH
TOURIST DIRECTORY & MAPS
p.20 p.24 Over 1,500 local business listings www.jogjabagus.com
Contents
EDITOR’S NOTE
Dear Readers, August is a special time in Jogja. Rain (usually) holds off in favor of cool breezes and bright sunny skies, while most students and residents are enjoying “Lebaran”, the holiday of Idul Fitri. In spirit of the season, we have worked to bring you fresh and exciting stories, shining new light on ancient locations like Candi Sewu at Prambanan, and sharing the story of one couple’s amazing world tour on a tandem bike. We hope you enjoy your time in this fair city, if it is two days, or two years, and we will continue to work to bring you monthly insights and interesting stories about one of Indonesia’s most popular destinations. Thanks again to the businesses, officials, artists, students, and tourists who make this city such a vibrant story. All the best, Sarah Herz
DESTINATION OF THE MONTH
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CO-EDITORS CONTENT MANAGER STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHER GRAPHIC DESIGNER CUSTOMER SERVICE MARKETING CONTRIBUTORS COVER PHOTO Copyright of:
Sylvain Leroy Erik W. Jorgensen Sarah Herz Anna Miranti Deti Lucara Mika Guritno Atreda Wicaksi Cecilia Morlacchi Anna Miranti Hendro Wijanarko Patrick Vanhoebrouck Moko Pramusanto Mika Guritno
PTPMA. Mindo Jl. Mrican Baru No. 1D Caturtunggal Depok Sleman Yogyakarta Tel. 0274-583064
Two People, One Bike, and 10,000 Kilometers Serabi Kocor
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UNDERGROUND JOGJA
Sacred Sites
ADVERTORIAL
Kop (Cupping)
Jogja’s Horse Whisperer Director of Natural House Deco
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TOP 10 EVENTS - AUGUST 2013
What’s Hapenning this Month
TOURIST DIRECTORY
29
18
PORTRAIT OF JOGJA
INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH
24
14
Oxen Free Bar & Kitchen
JAVANESE HEALTH SECRET
20
10
Love and Struggle from the Street
JAVANESE WISDOM
16
05
INSPIRING JOGJA
STREET FOOD
JOGJAMAG STAFF FOUNDER & EDITOR
Candi Sewu
Find What You’re Looking For
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JOGJA MAPS
City Map, Jl. Prawirotaman & Jl. Sosrowijayan Contact: 0274583064 (eng) 08562662373 (ind) cso@jogjastar.com
JogjaMag @jogjamag jogjamag.com
Previous Editions
EXPEDITION 2013 join us on our
HIKE FROM SEMARANG TO PARANGTRITIS! restaurant - yoga studio - bakery fair trade shop - travel - guesthouse
-
indonesian and world kitchen friday night jazz alternative tours and courses contemporary art exhibitions fair trade shop | yoga classes
open daily from 7.30 am
from 10 till 21 september 2013 Cross the country from coast to coast Climb Ungaran, Telemoyo, Merbabu and Merapi Follow rivers, canals and old railroad tracks Visit the temples of Gedong Songo and Prambanan
jalan prawirotaman 30, jogjakarta, java, indonesia
Camp in the rice fields, next to a lake and on mountain tops
ph +62 274 38 65 57
more on viaviajogja.com
www.viaviajogja.com www.viaviacafe.com
DESTINATION OF THE MONTH
Candi Sewu
The Temple of Love and Betrayal
A dwarapala statue guards an entrance to Candi Sewu
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h en coming to Jogja, the Prambanan temple complex is one of the highlights to visit in the area. This Hindu temple compound, the largest in Indonesia, dates back to the 9th century, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entire archaeological site is huge, and understanding each individual area and the significance of the remaining stone statues and reliefs could fill a lifetime of research. If you are unable to dedicate your life to studying this area, but are a fan of legends, tragedies, and romance, we recommend taking a little extra time on your tour of Prambanan to visit the Buddhist compound of Candi Sewu (Thousand Temples). Located 800 meters north of the iconic 47 meter high Hindu temple of Prambanan, Candi Sewu dates back to the 8th century, and was likely completed by the Medang King, Ratai Pikatan, who married a Buddhist princess. The story that surrounds Candi Sewu, however, is about a different princess the legendary Roro (Rara) Jonggrang. The tale of princess Jonggrang comes out of the conflict of two neighboring, and warring, kingdoms. 5
Her father, Prabu Boko, was a malicious man-eating giant, bent on destruction. King Prabu Boko attacked the realm of king Prabu Damar Moyo as part of his expansion plans, and Moyo sent his spiritually powerful son, Bandung Bondowoso to defend their land. In the conflict, king Boko is killed by Bondowoso, and the victorious son pushed forward to Boko’s palace to claim the vacant throne. Upon arriving at the palace, Bondowoso first sees king Boko’s beautiful daughter, Roro Jonggrang (Slender Virgin) wracked with grief over her father’s loss. It is love at first sight for Bondowoso, and he proposes marriage on the spot, but the princess, understandably perhaps, is reserved. She puts conditions on her acceptance, and demands that Bondowoso first dig an impossible well, which she has her father’s right-hand man, another giant, attempt to bury him in, alive. When this assasination attempt fails, she demands Bondowoso build a thousand temples in one single night in order to win her love. To achieve princess Jonggrang’s final condition, prince Bowondoso uses his spiritual powers to call 5
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DIRECTIONS Scan me for directions to the tempels
Prambanan and Sewu Temple, Jl. Jogja - Solo KM. 16, Prambanan. Tel. 0274 496408
Photos: Mika Guritno
up the spirits and demons of the underworld, who work through the night building 999 temples. When princess Jonggrang sees that he is about to reach his goal, she calls on the villagers to start their morning activities early, threshing rice from the field, and disturbing the chickens so the roosters will crow. The demons, thinking it is dawn, halt their work and retreat back to the underground, leaving the final temple unfinished. Bondowoso, upon discovering the trick, is furious, and in his anger, he turns princess Jonggrang into a stone, using her statue as the final piece for completing the last temple. Today, it is believed that the statue of the goddess Durga (the Inaccesable, or Invincible, in the main temple of Prambanan), is the embodiment of the cursed princess, and couples should not visit the temple, or it will bring bad luck, eventually ending their relationship. To visit Candi Sewu, you enter through the main gate of the Prambanan temple compound. Follow
Words: Deti Lucara & Sarah Herz
One of the restored reliefs at Candi Sewu
signs to the bicycle rental and train tours ticketing point, where you can rent a bicycle, single or tandem, or buy train tickets that bring you to Candi Sewu. If you have more time, and it is not too hot, you can walk, enjoying the scenery of the whole complex. Renting a bike and riding through the site is another attractive option. The train tour is a good choice if you are in a hurry, because the train only gives you five minutes to stop by Candi Sewu before it continues the tour. When you arrive at Candi Sewu, you will see is a row of temples that are no longer intact, and temple stones are piled everywhere. This complex was severely damaged in the earthquake in 2006. Previously, between 1983 and 1993 the Indonesian government had begun a total restoration of the temple area, but the earthquake of 2006 destroyed most of the reconstruction that had been done. The second round of renovations continues today. The main temple in the center is the largest one in the complex and has been completely refurbished, and you can go inside safely. Iron framing is embedded in the structure, and some stones have been replaced with newer ones. But overall, the temple looks beautiful and majestic, with the shape and reliefs maintaining its authenticity. Some other temples that surround the main temple have also been completely renovated, and are available to explore. By seeing the way these temples have been renovated, it lets you imagine that the whole complex must have been like in the past, when all the buildings were still intact, reflecting the mandala pattern that is renowned in the Buddhist faith. Candi Sewu is the second largest Buddhist temple in Indonesia after Borobudur, and it’s proximity to the Prambanan Hindu temple stands as proof that people of different faiths lived side by side peacefully in the past. The magnificent temples, the stunning mandala pattern, and the magical story behind it, is a package of enchantment that will make your visit to Candi Sewu one to remember.
INSPIRING JOGJA
Two People One Bike and
10,000
Kilometers W
Werner & Lisette finishing their 10,000km trip through two continents
Photo: Courtesy of Werner & Lisette
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We asked permission to leave for one year from our bosses, we rented out our apartment, sold our car, and we went - that’s all,” Werner says. For supplies, they carry a tent, sleeping bags, mats, equipment to fix bikes, clothes, an iPad, medicine, painting tools, maps, and dictionaries. They did not train physically and mentally in advance, but approached the trip as a fun and light experience. Lisette briefly suffered from a slight inflammation in her leg, but in general everything is fine. They stop when they feel tired, and take time to enjoy the scenery. Lisette paints the scenes she witnesses, always bringing painting equipment, and a small postcard-size canvas in her bag, while Werner eternalize moments through his lens of camera. They have chosen the road less traveled, “Our [choice] is to not visit highlighted tourist attractions in each country. We never follow the crowd, we always take a different path. And we get a lot of impressions along the way - the experiences we have are more important than arriving at the destination,” Werner says. In Jogjakarta, near the Code river, Werner and Lisette hit a total distance of 10,000 km, and this city is the last destination of their great adventure. After staying for one week, they will ship their bike and return to Europe. “After being away for almost a year it will be great to be back and reunion with family and friends,” Werner says. And this will not be the last trip for them. In five years they plan to make another world tour cycling to see some of the places they missed on this journey.
Words: Deti Lucara
erner and Lisette, a Belgian couple, have spent the past ten months admiring the beauty of the world from their tandem bike. From the green hills in Scandinavia, to cycling along the river in the Russian countryside, to competing with other vehicles on a busy Beijing street, and pedaling in between rice fields near Borobudur temple on their way to Jogjakarta, this adventuresome pair have had a rare and special journey. Back in Belgium, Werner is a curator for a museum, and Lisette works as a psychologist. They took this past year off from their jobs to cycle together around the world. This plan formed in their minds just a few months before they started their journey, in August 2012. “We wanted to do something different. We both love cycling, and wanted to enjoy the world on a bicycle, so here we are,” explains Lisette. Their route began in Belgium, and they went north through Scandinavia via Denmark and Finland, crossing to Estonia, and entering Russia near St. Petersburg. Continuing through Russia they finally touched down in Asia - visiting Beijing, Southern China, riding through the mountains in Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, taking a boat to the island of Batam, continuing to Sumatra, and then Java, where we were lucky to finally find them, in Jogjakarta. A journey of this length seems like a big decision, requiring lots of preparation in advance, but Werner and Lisette took it in stride, and found it was easy to jump right into the trip, “We hadn’t prepared anything special, it was just a basic preparation.
STREET FOOD
Serabi Kocor One woman’s commitment to an ancient local food
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Serabi Kocor can be enjoyed on Jl Brigjen Katamso, North of Jogjatronik. Rp. 2,500/portion
Photo: Mika Guritno
bah Martodirejo is a 77 year old woman who patiently waits for customers of her Javanese traditional pancake, every day until late in the night. Her wizened hands deftly pours thick pancake batter into the skillet on the clay stove, repeating a local tradition that is all but lost in modern culinary culture. Locals call the type of food Mbah Marto is selling serabi kocor: serabi is a Javanese word for pancake that has been adopted into Indonesian vocabulary, while kocor remains uniquely Javanese, and refers to the sweet sauce that is served together with the pancake. Although serabi kocor has lost in popularity to other more modern dessert-like treats, Mbah Marto remains faithful to making and selling this traditional food. In her old age, Mbah Marto still continues to work every night to make enough money to live on. Her husband has long passed away without leaving any children, and so she lives alone. It has been more than 30 years since she took on this profession with
Words: Deti Lucara
Mbah Marto prepares a serving of serabi kocor
diligence and patience. At home, she starts at 3pm with preparing the dough. Then, armed with a small table, storefront, a small bench, and two charcoal furnaces, at 6pm she transports all of her equipment by becak (pedicab) to the front of a shop on Jl. MT Haryono. Under all weather conditions she remains sitting until late at night, although she is tired, lonely, or wet, as this is the only way she knows to make money. “I will continue to sell pancakes until my body can’t do it anymore. I do not have a choice. What else can I do?” she said with a great fortitude that is hard to describe. Mbah Marto’s traditional pancakes are a taste from the past. The batter of the pancake is a mixture of rice flour, grated coconut, salt, and water poured into a pan, then baked on a traditional clay stove. After a few minutes, the cake must be reversed in order to get evenly cooked on both sides. It is served warm with sauce made of coconut milk and palm sugar, giving both a savory and sweet taste, an ancient flavor made from the natural resources of Java. This type of food is increasingly rare lost amidst all that our developing city has to offer. Serabi kocor is said to have originated from Bantul, the southern suburb of Jogja, and you might find some pancake vendors still there, but in the city, Mbah Marto may be the only vendor that still exists today. Eko, a loyal customer of Mbah Marto’s serabi kocor says, “I’ve been a customer for a dozen years. I’ve tried looking for other vendors in the city but have not found any, and I do not mind cycling a distance of several kilometers to come get the best pancake from Mbah Marto.” With fans like Eko, Mbah Marto’s kitchen can remain steaming everyday.
UNDERGROUND JOGJA
Love and Struggle from the Street The life of shemale street singers
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How to Help:
Donate or volunteer with Iwayo, a local NGO that provides support and job training for the transgender community.
Contact Info:
Kebaya Jalan Gowongan Lor JT III/148 Tel. 081931194960 (Vinolia Wakidjo)
Photo: Mika Guritno
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good relationships with their neighborhood until slowly the people began to tolerate them. The group we interviewed for this article now live in Jl. Magelang area of Jogjakarta, and coexist in harmony with the small community there. After years of her experiences living on the streets from one city to another, Saragih feels Jogja is the most friendly and open-minded society she’s known. “I’ve ventured into many of the cities in Indonesia, and in the end, I feel safe and comfortable in Jogja because society here is so friendly compared to other places,” Saragih, who is originally from Medan, admitted. On a daily basis, the waria we interviewed don’t just participate in various activities in the neighborhood, but are also involved as volunteers for the Iwayo NGO, a local group associated with the organization Kebaya, the center for the waria community, and focused on helping street children and Waria. “We come from the streets, we’ve experienced all kinds of the bitterness of life on the street. Now we have a better life, we can rent houses and have a proper living. But we don’t forget those poor friends who still deal with hard life on the street,” Saragih said. Her concern about the homeless has brought Saragih to saved 3 children who were at risk of ending up on the streets if no one would adopt them. “My oldest adopted son is now in his third year of high school, the second one in the first year of high school, and the youngest one is still in the fourth grade of elementary school. I finance their lives and education from the money I earn by singing,” Saragih says proudly. If we take a moment to get to know these women, seeing past their differences from accepted society, we may find they are friendly, kind-hearted, and empathetic people.
Words: Deti Lucara
hey wear sexy dresses while waltzing down the street, going from one restaurant to another in the Gejayan area of Jogjakarta. Their bold attitude is made more significant by their heavy makeup and eyeshadow that matches with their flashy outfits. A tambourine rattles away as they sing loudly and shake their hips, while walking down the street - making their Yuka and Rina pose in their best dresses living by busking door to door. This unusual appearance and outgoing style may amuse many people - a few of whom will ridicule and humiliate them, but they keep on going to earn a little income as waria (transgender, or ‘shemale’) street singers. 58 year old Yuka Saragih is one of the many street singers in Jogjakarta. Saragih began this profession almost 30 years ago, struggling amid insults, abuse, and harassment. The street singers feel like they have no choice, she says, the discrimination against transgender people in the society limits their ability to get a decent job. “I can sing. If possible I would love to sing in a cafe. But let’s be realistic, is there any cafe in Jogja that wants to hire us?,” Saragih says. That is why many transgender tend to make a living on the streets, whether as sex workers or as street musicians. Unfortunately, as a result they feel that society looks down on them. In order to gain acceptance in society, Saragih and her friends have been patient for years, maintaining
JAVANESE WISDOM
Leyep layap liyeping aluyut Moving from outer to inner self to reach wisdom
SACRED SITES Where the Javanese speak to their ancestors
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force and the soul. Stewardship of these sites is often of crucial importance to nearby local communities, and consequently, managers of protected areas need to recognize the deep cultural value of sharing responsibility for that area, as the site’s value extends through the local community to their ancestors. Across the Special District of Yogyakarta these sacred and protected areas that are important to kejawen practitioners include candi (temple sites), the petilasan (burial grounds or ascetic hermitages of ancestors), ziarah (places of pilgrimage), or sites associated with special events. They can be the abode of deities, nature spirits and ancestors, they can be feared and secret places, or they can be benign areas for ceremony, contemplation and meditation that allows for communication with the transcendental. Common to most sacred natural sites is that they are areas removed from everyday access and from regular resource use. As a present-day example, the use of isolated caves for mystical purposes in the Javanese lore and literature still serve as inspiration for practitioners. The seclusive element of sacred natural sites is illustrated by caves, as they shut out the profane world. Caves can also be seen as doors to an ‘underworld’, or mark the transition from a ‘here’ to a ‘there’. There are many legends that support this interpretation of caves and their role in kejawen. In the Arjunawiwaha story (see opposite page), the hero
Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck and Moko Pramusanto
n kejawen, the traditional spirituality of the Javanese, there is a concept that the human body and mind are jagadcilik (microcosmos) of the Universal jagadgédé (macrocosmos). For practitioners of kejawen this means we are connected with the environment and the world around us. As we have seen through human history around the world, communities have traditionally given a special status to natural sites such as mountains, rivers, lakes, caves, forest groves, coastal waters and entire islands. Many of these places have been set aside as sacred, and the reasons for their sacredness are diverse. They may be perceived as abodes of deities and ancestral spirits; as sources of healing water and plants; places of contact with the spiritual, or communication with the ‘more than human’ reality; and sites of revelation and transformation. On Java, many of the kejawen rituals and ceremonies are conducted at natural sites, where practitioners perceive a special relationship between the astral bodies like the moon, sun and stars and a specific sacred place. Javanese spirituals worship water sources, rivers, seas and lakes, mountains, and Ibu Pertiwi (Mother Earth), not only because they are the means for survival, but also because they are a part of their philosophical identity as people. Habitats are treated as community members, and on Java the mountains and water resources are especially sacred: they represent ancestors, they are sources of spiritual
Arjuna spends most of his time in a hermitage cave. In the Dewaruci story, Werkudara (Bima) is asked by Durna, the felon guru, to search for the ‘Water of Life’ in a sacred cave guarded by two huge demons. In the Darmogandul text, Kyai Daha, the deceased minister of the King Joyoboyo, becomes the patron of the region of Daha (Kediri), and his residence is in the cave Sela Bale on Mount Klotok, an eastern spur of Mount Wilis. Kyai Daha’s younger brother resides in the volcano Kelut and sees to it that during eruptions of the Kelut, the lava does not harm the villagers. For islamic kejawen followers, the Serat Centini text serves as a guide to existing caves when describing how the hero Amongraga journeyed to sacred places and caves in East and Central Java, to visit where Javanese ascetics lived in meditation. Some of the caves located in the Prambanan, Gunungkidul and Parangtritis Beach areas were related to ascetic practices and are still very popular tapa (ascèse) spots today. Fasting and meditating for forty-day periods, sometimes in caves or forests, is a common concept in this area for the purpose of acquiring sakti, “life force” or “power”. Philosophically speaking, the cave is a silent place, ideal for spiritual contemplation by anyone wishing to purify their mind. The atmosphere reminds one of being a fetus inside the mother’s womb. The mother cares and transfers life-force to her child in a genuinely selfless manner, providing for the stimulation of the child’s life. Caves are seen as reenacting this process of pure life injection and re-birth, through the stages of nyepi (calmness of mind) and with the goal of reaching keheningan (clarity of consciousness). Moving as such, the more subtle astral bodies of the practitioner connect and meddle in the ghaib (metaphysical) realms where it
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is believed that higher realizations and knowledge can be attained. Here the deep Self ultimately apprehends a state of Wijaksonoadil Paramarta (Universal Wisdom) and the new identity known as Sang Jumeneng Sepuh (the wise self) will provide answers, no longer questioning. This gradual process of elevated consciousness is named LEYEP LAYAP LIYEPING ALUYUT.
The Story of Arjuna Arjuna was the third son of King Pandu, and his dedication to spirituality was demonstrated by years spent praying in a small cave and through his ability to ignore a lot of beautiful women. His power alerted another king, King Niwata Kawaca (who was after the deity Indra’s daughter), of Arjuna’s potential threat to global and divine domination. King Niwata sent a giant mythical boar to deal with the spiritual upstart, but through the assistance of another deity, Arjuna was able to slay the boar and walk away with a divine arrow that could pierce anything. By teaming up with Indra and his alluring daughters Arjuna was eventually able to find and strike the only vulnerable part of King Niwata, his tongue, killing the king and saving Indra’s divine realm and family from further attack. Indra was so grateful that he gave all his seven of beautiful daughters to Arjuna as wives.
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ADVERTORIAL
OXEN FREE Bar & Kitchen trendy restaurant & bar offers something for all
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or the last year, the nightlife in Jogja has been enlivened by the vibrant presence of Oxen Free Bar and Kitchen. Located in the popular tourist area of Jl. Sosrowijayan, Oxen Free offers a select food menu of local and international favorites, fine coffee, a range of beers, and a special menu of cocktails that you won’t find anywhere else in town. From the beautiful outdoor patio to the chill DJ lounge, all you might want for your evening can be found here - the modern and chic atmosphere meets the needs of a diverse range of customers who enjoy sharing fine food and drinks in a superb setting. Opened in July of 2012, Oxen Free owners Rachel and Timothy have built this business into an extraordinary venue. The building is divided into four parts, with a well lit lobby, a music room for the DJ and a dance floor lined with big sofas, a traditional
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bar area, and a spacious backyard garden. Each area offers a different ambience and makes you want to dive in more. For those who are looking for more from Jogja’s nightlife, this bar and all it offers should be at the top of your list. The gracious owners will greet each guest warmly and share jokes, making all who enter feel welcome. Pull up a chair and enjoy one of the enticing drinks created by the regionally famous bartender, Eko Prabowo (Vibe Ambassador) - from the simplest margarita to the fanciest martini he and his team are able to please every palate. For low alcohol content try their mojitos or mocktails, or try their signature drinks like the Bourbon Nutella, Oxen Silver Ball, Roulette Battleship, and Violet Friendship. For the stronger stuff, we recommend the Martini, Boston, Orange Blossom and Lychee Martini. If you are
completely crazy, ask the bartender to make you an “Armageddon”. When it comes to the food, the Chef consultant, Sergio Satue Barreiros, originally from Spain, has created some excellent dishes with a simple but delicious concept. The special Spanish style tapas are small, affordable bites. Salmon fillet, tuna fillet, and spaghetti il mare are just some of the larger menu options recommended for dinner. Try these, and other fine foods, in their new exciting menu inspired by the work of Chef Sergio. To keep the atmosphere jiving, Oxen Free provides all types of tunes ranging from electro, hip hop, jazz, blues, funk, soul, to soulful progressive - allowing people from different musical backgrounds to come, mingle, and let loose on the dance floor until late into the night. It is always good to check out their website to see who’s playing, and keep eye out for announcements of international DJs. Customers enjoy their time at Oxen Free, and leave with dozens of good experiences. Mamad Abdullah, General Manager of Hotel 1001 says, “I think Oxen Free is the only beer garden in Yogyakarta. [The owners] are both artists, so everything in Oxen Free follows their artistic talent, and the music is also nice. I never regret coming to this place. Trust me, their cocktails are the best in the area.” So what you are waiting for? Get dressed up, call your pals, and enjoy a delightful party all night long.
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OXEN FREE Jl. Sosrowijayan No.2 Tel. 0274 555492 contact@oxenfree.net www.oxenfree.net
JAVENESE HEALTH SECRET
KOP
The Power of the cup
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2. Dab the top of the paper cone with a little coconut oil, as well as at the bottom below the coin. 3. Light the top of the cone on fire, wait until it burns about halfway down. Place this burning cone on top of either the upper stomach area (above the bellybutton while patient is lying on their back) or other large flat painful parts such as on the upper or lower back (the patient lying face down). 4. Subsequently cover the glass over the burning cone and press firmly onto the skin so as not to remain loose.The burning should stop almost immediately. Release your hand softly, you will see the skin-part under the glass bulging up. This is expected, so do not worry. 5. Leave for about 15 to 20 minutes, then remove the glass and the cone. The area previously under the glass might look a bit reddish or pink. This is a normal phenomenon as the inner wind has been diffused. Ask the patient how he feels, great chance they might already experience a sensation of freshness in the body and a relief of anterior pains. Enough for an introduction to Kop, now please take advantage of your glasses and coins and try out the treatment. You will be free from pain and the body will feel healthy again. Rahayu!
Photo: Deti Lucara
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Next, do the following: 1. Lay out the sheet of paper and place the coin in the middle. Fold the paper around it and twist the top into a cone shape.
Words: Moko Pramusanto
ymptoms of the body feeling simultaneously hot and cold, the stomach feeling full (abdominal distention) and accompanied by dizziness or nausea are indications of a condition which is known familiarly as masuk angin by Javanese communities, literally meaning “intrusion of the wind”. Usually, masuk angin is experienced after sudden or long exposure to rain, traveling in strong windy conditions, excessive usage of a fan or AC, especially on an empty stomach or while the body already is experiencing a fatigue. If it is not immediately remedied, this ‘wind’ may attack more powerful systems and cause a disturbance to bodily organ functions, such as angina pectoris in the lungs, recurrent dizziness and indigestion accompanied by fever. The Javanese retain several methods of traditional treatments to resolve such complaints, most commonly by applying kerokan (scraping with a coin). Another common method we wish to introduce here is cupping therapy which is famous all across Southeast Asia. In Java, cupping is popularly known as Kop, stemming from the Dutch word for cup. Essentially it consists of applying a suctioning cup on a large flat part of the body and is specifically destined to ‘chase away the bad disease-causing winds in the body’ through a phenomenon of diffusion. Want to know how? It is very easy to do, and simple to learn. First prepare the necessary ‘tools’, namely: 1 small clear glass, 1 large-size coin, a little coconut oil, 1 sheet of dry paper (not too wide), and a lighter.
PORTRAIT OF JOGJA
JOGJA’S HORSE WHISPERER Healing by Touch
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Photo: Mika Guritno
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Address: Segoroyoso Village Pleret, Bantul Contact: Bu Erna (Dul’s daughter): Tel. 081578166585
Words: Deti Lucara
h orse is led, limping, out of its stall. Even from afar, Dul Aman knows the front left shoulder of the horse is injured. Aman approaches the horse and rubs its head and neck, as an introduction. Once the horse is used to his presence, Aman starts stroking and massaging the horse’s front left leg. Initially, the horse reacts in pain, but after a while it begins to calm down and relax, “This is a carriage horse. The coachman, I suppose, turned the carriage too abruptly to the left, so the front left shoulder of the horse hit the shaft of the carriage,” Aman explains while carefully massaging the horse’s shoulder. After about half an hour, the massage session is complete. The leg of the horse seems stronger now. As a final touch, Aman smears the horse’s body with a traditional cream, a mixture of grated ginger, chili, and alcohol. Aman uses the cream to warm the horse’s body and help restore stamina. “Insha’Allah, tomorrow the horse can go back to work again,” Aman says. At age 64, Aman lives in Segoroyoso Village in the south of Jogjakarta and has been an expert in quadruped animals for 30 years. This expertise runs in Aman’s family, and he inherited his skills from his father and grandfather. He has put his ability to use, massaging a range of animals; including cattle, buffalo, horses, goats, sheep and other quadrupeds with ailments that include sprains, fractured bones, exhaustion, eating problems, and even insanity. Despite the hereditary nature of Aman’s talents, he has had to work long and hard to cultivate and master his abilities. Since age 10, Aman has worked incessantly to train the mind and soul. In addition to his training, Aman underwent a ritual of fasting and meditation before taking over the job from his father, and he insists that the job is mostly related to faith in God. In between sessions, Aman always prays
for blessing, “God is the Almighty. All the power comes from him. I’m just the mediator. I can cure my patient only if God permits it,” he explains. Aman’s intense level of focus and sensitivity permits him to feel the animals’ pain, even though they cannot say anything. His fingers are scanners; analyzing the condition of the animal, how long it has been injured, the cause, and what kind of treatment had been given previously. His specialized talent and personality have led several national TV stations and print media to tell his story. His popularity spread quickly, and as a result, he often gets calls to take care of injured animals in Boyolali, Purworejo, Kebumen, and Jakarta. Although Aman must make “house calls” to his clients’ places across Indonesia, he never specifies the rates for his services and transport costs. “Everything is up to the client, how much they appreciate my services and time,” Aman says. Even so, Aman has done well for himself, and he is able to finance the education of his children. His youngest son, now in fourth grade, is expected to be the next in line to inherit his family’s skill. Aman explains that he sees a lot of himself in his son, “Dimas is used to living life in discipline and modesty, just like me when I was at his age. This is the substance needed to inherit the mystic masseur’s skill. Let’s hope, he will be able to be my successor, and preserve this rare profession for a long time in the future.”
INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH
ACHIS ANDREA
DIRECTOR OF NATU
When and how was Natural House Deco started? And what is the concept of this business? We started our business in 1997. Initially we only manufactured handicraft items, but then we expanded so that now we are known as a manufacturer of interior home furnishing products. Nevertheless, the concept, or spirit, behind the business is still the same; it is about creating nature-based products. We are committed to using eco-friendly materials, such as scrap metal, recycled wood, and more. What differentiates you from your competitors? We always make the most of recycled materials, which are reprocessed and transformed into high-end artistic products. Since our designer’s background is as an artist, each of our items are built as creative masterpieces, but we do not sell exclusively to collectors, and instead mass produce, so anyone can have acces to the quality and design of a masterpiece. CV. Natural House
Showroom: Desa Wisata Kasongan, Tirtonirmolo Kasihan Bantul Tel. / Fax. 0274 6463624
masterpieces
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As a trendsetter, one of the consequences is that many of your products are imitated or copied by competitors. What do you think about this? We see it as a trigger for further development. By the time competitors imitate our products, we should already have another two or three new products releasing. We must
Photo: Mika Guritno
Since our designer’s background is as an artist, each of our items are built as creative
Words: Deti Lucara
Office: Desa Wisata Kasongan, Sentanan, Bangunjiwo Kasihan Bantul Tel. 0274 6461436 / 37 naturalhouse_2013@yahoo.com jogja_craft@yahoo.com
How does the creative process happen in Natural House Deco when developing a new product? It happens dynamically. Inspiration can come from anywhere; from voices we hear, from things we see, from text we read - basically from any stimulus which is received by our senses. The ideas and inspirations of the design could come up from our artists themselves, from the brainstorming process, or from the market demand though we tend to be a trendsetter. In addition, the idea could also arise from the customer. For our customized design, we never produce in bulk, because it is always made exclusively for the customer concerned. This is the ethical code of our company.
RAL HOUSE DECO keep our position a few steps ahead. The key is ceaseless innovation. We do not worry about a patent and will let anyone copy our products, because we never run out of ideas for creating new designs. As a trendsetter, the products of Natural House Deco must get a huge response from the market. Can you tell us a little about how it’s going? Well, there is a difference in response and demand between the local and overseas markets. For the local market, our products are more likely to be considered a bit “weird�. Local buyers tend to choose products that are familiar and functional for them. At the local level, our customers tend to come from the upper middle class. Meanwhile, our foreign customers have more appreciation for our products as they are more willing to incorporate unique and original items in their stock and homes. However, a sales comparison between the local and overseas markets shows it is more or less the same, 50:50. The sales come from various types, ranging from the retail sale of mass-produced goods, to customized and exclusive stuff. Which countries are you sending the products of Natural House to? Most of our products are sent to America, Canada, and Europe. Our buyers are mainly resellers. In their countries they are the distributors that supply stuff to the galleries, or they have projects with housing developers to furnish the interior of houses. Are you concerned about any future challenges for Natural House? Creativity-based industry is believed to be a recessionproof business, which tends to survive during financial crisis. Accordingly, we are already on the right track. Our main challenges are how to keep growing, how to be more creative, and how to broaden our markets.
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TOP 10 EVENTS August 2013
SURVIVE! day
1 July - 15 August
Time: 1pm - 8pm Place: ASCOS (ASMARA Art and Coffee Shop) Jl. Tirtodipuran 22 Phone: 0274 383143 Entrance Fee: Free SURVIVE! Day will present the work of artists from various fields, including, music, tattoos and another creative communities. This mini festival is a showcase of the creativity of the young artists in Yogyakarta, facilitated by SURVIVED! Garage as the event executor, and ASMARA Art and Coffee shop as the venue providers.
Bazaar Ramadhan Purawisata jogja semarak ramadhan istimewat
Kupatan in Dipowinatan
2, 3 & 9 August
Time: 3pm Place: Jl. Mangkubumi and Jl. Malioboro Phone: 0274 567486 Entrance Fee: Free Over 50 Jogja art communities come together to put on this show including the Jogja Magic Community, dance troupes, the buffoonery association, singing ensembles and the hypnosis community. This event brings artistic collaboration to the stage where just about anything can (and does) happen.
Festival Ramadhan Kotagede Parade Around Kotagede
Grebeg Syawal Yogyakarta Palace
8 August
Time: 10am - 12pm Place: North Alun Alun. Phone: 0274 567486 Entrance Fee: Free This annual ceremony located at the park in front of the Jogja Palace takes place on the 1st of Syawal. It this said to be an expression of gratitude that Ramadhan, the month of fasting is over, and to welcome the arrival of the month of Syawal. In the ceremony, a giant “Gunungan” will be paraded and shared with people in North Square of Jogjakarta. Gunungan is a stacked pile of food that resembles a mountain, a special feature of the Grebeg ceremony. Gunungan consists of a variety of natural resources, and is a symbol of the prosperity of Jogjakarta.
14 August
Time: 9pm Place: Dipowinatan village, Keparakan, Mergangsan Phone: 0274 588025 Entrance Fee: Free This is a ceremony to give thanks to God so that next year’s harvest will be even better than the last. The Sultan or an appointed emissary will attend the ceremony and be served a special food called giant “Ketupat”. Come join us in bringing in a good harvest.
Oglek Kulonprogo
18 August
Time: 2pm - 3pm Place: Taman Budaya Yogyakarta, Jl. Sri Wedani No. 1 Phone: 0274 523512 / 561914, Fax. 0274 580771 Entrance Fee: Free Oglek dance is a form of traditional folk art where the dancing and music meet on an open stage. Oglek music comes from a variety of percussion instruments that induce a methodical rhythm. As the methodical melody takes over, the dancer is said to become possessed and move in a trance like state.
7 August
Time: 1pm Place: Parade Route: Jl. Kemasan - Jl. Mondorakan Phone: 087839865279 / 085729994589 Entrance Fee: Free This annual parade and carnival is organized by the Young Muhammadiyah (AMM), and has been going now for over 30 years. Young participants dress in traditional clothing from the time of the Islamic Kingdom of Jogja and retell the famous legend of Mataram.
Every Friday
Time: 8pm - 11pm Place: Via Via Cafe & Resto, Jl. Prawirotaman No. 30 Phone: 0274 386557 Entrance Fee: Free The meeting between western and eastern cultures always creates something special. This weekly jazz set is entitled “East meets West” and happens every Friday at Via Via Cafe & Resto. Enjoy the live music performances while having some drinks with friends.
18 July - 5 August
Time: 3pm - 11pm Place: Purawisata Yogyakarta, Jl. Brigjend Katamso Phone: 082329726688 / 081218156973 / 0274 380643 Entrance Fee: Free Purawisata will be holding a Bazaar and Music Performance to help bring in the new year. Special guest FATIN SHIDQIA (X-Factor Indonesia) will be present to initiate the event. In the bazaar, you can try a variety of traditional snacks which are usually served to break the fast.
Art Performance: menunggu buka
Friday Night Jazz at Via Via
Musical Pek Bung
18 August
Time: 3.30pm - 5pm Place: Taman Budaya Yogyakarta, Jl. Sri Wedani No 1 Phone: 0274 523512 / 561914, Fax. 0274 580771 Entrance Fee: Free Pek Bung is a one of a kind traditional music style using instruments made of bamboo and pottery. Pek Bung music was hugly popular in Indonesia in the 1950s and 1960s, but now is difficult to come by. Check out this intriguing and unique form of music.
Merah Putih Cat Fun & Cat Show
25 August
Time: 9am Place: Mandala Bakti Wanitatama Balai Utari Jl. Laksda Adisucipto No. 88 Phone : 0274 587818 / 513282 Entrance Fee: Free This local event is supported by ICA (International Cat Association), which celebrates Independence Day through a unique median, the appreciation of cats and their owners who love them dearly. The Cat Show will feature Percia peaknose long hair and short hair (exotic), Percia medium nose and domestic cats. The Cat Fun activities included a cat carnival, cat photo sessions, the heaviest cat contest, a cat eating contest and a running cat competition.
TOURIST
DIRECTORY
CAR & BIKE RENTALS
PAMITRAN 1 Ruko Mrican Baru blok 1B Tel. 0274 6666610 / 0274 520545 PAMITRAN 2 Jl. Janturan 5 Tel. 0274 6604441 / 083833444111 SATU DUNIA Jl. Prawirotaman 1 No.44 & No.27 Tel. 0274 8527888 / 08139267888
Jl. Mrican Baru C-3 Moses Gatotkaca, Gejayan Tel. 0274 563203 / 0274 6533765 Mobile. 081578760645 Pit_pancal@yahoo.com www.bambstrans.com ARAU TRANS CAR & MOTORBIKE RENTAL Jl. Sambirejo Raya, No. 24 Condongcatur Tel. 0274 7179990 CHUBA TRANSPORT Jl. Perintis Kemerdekaan 30 Tel. 0274 70002470 / 0274 9200337 ENDE TRANSPORT Jogja Bromo Tour, Jl. Prawirotaman 1 No. 27 Tel. 0274 384389 IHAP TRANSPOT & TRAVEL Melati Tegal, DN. 08 No. 142, Sendang Adi, Mlati Tel. 0274 933935 / 088806009363
Alphard | Velvire | Camry | Fortuner Pajero | Altis | Grand Innova | All New Avanza | Xenia | APV | Yaris | Travello Jl. Pandega, Marta No. 110. Sleman - DIY Tel. 0274 7800056 / 081904018000 / 081229788000 maestro_car82@yahoo.com
Jl Sosrowijayan no. 32 Malioboro Tel. 0274 8352507 081903762507 paradizzo@yahoo.com www.paradizzo-jogjatour.com
MONEY CHANGERS AGUNG VALAS MANDIRI AUHORIZED MONEY CHANGER Jl. Colombo 4A, Samirono Tel. 0274 540174 / 0274552130 ANNAS MONEY CHANGER Jl. Prawirotaman No. 7 Tel. 0274 418456 INTRA VALAS Airport Adisucipto Yogyakarta, Arrival Hall Tel. 0274 6934861 MENDUT VALASINDO Hotel Abadi Jl. Pasar Kembang No. 49 Tel. 0274 582506 MULIA BUMI ARTA Ambarukmo Plaza, LG Floor Jl. Laksda Adi Sucipto Km. 6 Tel. 0274 4331272
EASYGOIN’ RESTAURANT & CAFE Jl. Prawirotaman No. 12 Tel. 0274 384092
PAMUNGKAS Tel. 0274 521333 PATAGA Tel. 0274 386713
HAVANA WINE & CIGAR LOUNGE Ruko Pandega Permai No. 14 - 16, 4th floor, North Ring Road Tel. 0274 4399691 / 0274 4399692
RAJAWALI Tel. 0274 487676
LIQUID NEXT GENERATION Jl. Magelang Km 5,5, Sinduadi, Mlati Tel. 0274 622020 / 0274 623698
Tel. 0274 561155 (Hunting) 566353 Ext.156
TICKETING AGENTS ALVART TICKETING AGENCY Kronggahan 1 Gamping, Sleman Tel. 085729345159 MGP TRAVELINDO Jl Demangan No.7 Caturtunggal, Depok Tel. 0274 8261986 MITRA PERSADA TRAVELINDO Jl. Pringgondani No. 1 Demangan Tel. 0274 511100 NUSANTARA TOUR & TRAVEL Jl. Urip Sumoharjo No. 77 C Tel. 0274 560988 / 0274 518088 TURINDO TOUR AND TRAVEL Jl. Dr. Sutomo No.45 Tel. 0274 540000 / 0274 566629
RASTA BAR & CAFE Jl. Parangtritis 67B Tel. 0274 371578
VETRI TAXI Tel. 0274 563555
VISA AGENTS ABRIVA WISATA TOUR & TRAVEL Jl. Surokarsan 12 Tel. 0274 387151 MITRA PERSADA TRAVELINDO Jl. Pringgondani No. 1 Demangan Tel. 0274 511100 Fax. 0274 541402 NUSANTARA TOUR & TRAVEL Jalan Urip Sumoharjo No. 77 C Tel. 0274 560988 / 0274 518088 Fax. 0274 518010 / 0274 546066 SATU DUNIA Jl. Prawirotaman 1 No.44 & No.27 Tel. 0274 8527888 / 08139267888
SPAS & SALONS
Reyssa 1 Jl.Palagan Tentara Pelajar No. 33B Tel. 0274 7167458 Reyssa 2 Jl. Magelang km.8 Tel. 0274 7167457
DAUN SPA & SALON Jl. Dewi Sri no. 40C Tirtonirmolo, Bantul Tel. 0274 3154040 Inna Garuda Hotel Jl. Malioboro No. 60
LUCIFER CAFE Jl. Sosrowijayan 71 Tel. 0815 9745554
SETIA KAWAN TAXI Tel. 0274 412000
www.reyssaspa.asia
Fax. 0274 516769 www.barumun-money.co.id
JAVABALI TRANS WISATA Jl. Sambirejo No. 23, Condongcatur Tel. 08156868141
BINTANG CAFE Jl. Sosrowijayan 54 Tel. 08191555105
JAS Tel. 0274 373737
Reyssa 3 Jl. Laksda Adisucipto km.8 Tel. 0274 8542242
Pamitran 1 Ruko Mrican Baru blok 1B Tel. 0274 6666610 / 0274 520545
ARFA LOMBOK TOUR Lombok Office BTN Griya Permata, Blok H, No. 2, Sekarbela, Mataram, Lombok Barat, NTB - Indonesia Tel. 087864400478 Yogyakarta Office Jl. Garuda 312 Rt. 07, Rw. 20, Banguntapan, Bantul Tel. 0274 9542411
ASCOS ASMARA ART AND COFFEE SHOP Jl. Tirtodipuran 22 Tel. 0274 383143
SADEWA Tel. 0274 414343
PT. INTAN ARTHA SENTOSA Jl. Malioboro No. 18 Suryatmajan, Danurejan Tel. 0274 565279
TOURS & TRAVELS
CENTRIS RAYA TAXI Tel. 0274 7111111 / 0274 4362221 INDRA KELANA TAXI Tel. 0274 564572
RIA Tel. 0274 621056
PT. DOLLAR CENTER Jl. Pasar Kembang No. 23 Tel. 0274 587648
Pamitran 2 Jl. Janturan 5 Tel. 0274 6604441 / 083833444111 info@pamitrantours.com www.pamitranrentalmotor.com www.pamitrantours.com
BARS & CLUBS
TAXIS
INDRALOKA SPA Jl. Kartini 14A Sagan Tel. 0274 9533388 D’ OMAH HOTEL SPA Jl. Parangtritis Km. 8.5 Tel. 0274 386050 RATU AYU SPA Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar 203 D North of Hyatt Hotel Tel. 0274 2633705 SARI KARTIKA SPA Jl. Tirtodipuran no.49 Tel. 0274 411160
COURSES ANSOR’S SILVER PUSAT Jl. Tegalgendu No.26 Kotagede Tel. 0274 373266 Class: Silver craftmanship BATIK INDAH RARA DJONGGRANG Jl. Tirtodipuran 18 Tel. 0274 375209 Fax. 0274 378653 Class: Batik painting
Class: Bahasa Spanyol Jl. Kapuas No. 1 (Jl. Perumnas Seturan)
TERRACE CAFE Jl. Raya Seturan 4 Caturtunggal, Depok Tel. 0274 4332931
Tel. 0274 7870653 (Paloma Cascales: 087839771758) Email: aulamadrid.yogya@gmail.com BINTORO CRAFT Jl. Tirtonirmolo, Bangunjiwo, Bantul Tel. 08985026809 Class: Pottery
Cafe & Lounge South Parking Area Inna Garuda Hotel Jl. Malioboro No. 60
GLOBAL ART Jl. Laksda Adi Sucipto Km. 6 no. 15 Tel. 0274 7475663 Class: Painting and Arts
Tel./Fax. 0274 560853 positivarepublic@gmail.com facebook.com/Republic Positiva Cafe & Lounge twitter.com/Rep_Positiva
IFI-LIP YOGYAKARTA Jl. Sagan No. 3 Tel. 0274 547409 Fax. 0274 562140 Class: French language
Want to Write? admin@jogjastar.com
SANGGAR SENI WIRABUDAYA Jomegatan 240, Ngestiharjo Tel. 0274 380263 Class: Gamelan & Karawitan VIAVIA Jl. Prawirotaman 30 Tel. 0274 386557 Class: Yoga, Batik, Indonesian language & Silver craftmanship
Advertise With Us 0274 583064 (eng) 08562662373 (Ind) admin@jogjastar.com
ESSENTIALS Jogja Call Center 0274 108 Fire Department 0274 113 / 7474704 Tourism Police 0274 110 / 562811 ext.1222 Immigration Office 0274 489252 Jogja International Hospital 0274 4463555 / 4463444 Adisucipto Airport 0274 488882 / 566666 Indonesian Red Cross 0274 372176
Giwangan Bus Station 0274 410015 Jombor Bus Station 0274 623310 Tourism Information 0274 588025 Emergency Call 0274 112 Ambulance 0274 118 Search & Rescue(SAR) 0274 115 / 587559 Tugu Train Station 0274 512870 / 514270 / 589685
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