38 minute read
Money & Finance
MONEY SENSE
1 Historical Mortgage Rates from The 1970s To 2021:
Averages And Trends, KEVIN GRAHAM 1 Historical Mortgage Rates from The 1970s To 2021Averages
And Trends, KEVIN GRAHAM 1 Historical CD interest rates: 1984-2022, Libby Wells
DEALING WITH INFLATION AND YOUR MONEY
For the past 40 years, the inflation rate has been low and has not really been a big concern for most people. Mortgage rates have been below 5% for the past 12 years . Over the last 4 years the rates were 4% or lower, while some people received rates in the low 2 percent range. Those days are probably gone for now. A rate of 5% is a shock – when only a year ago it was 2 to 3% -- and is tough getting used to. We are now assuming that there will not be a lot of refinancing going on in the next few years. Most mortgages will be for purchases and for people that need to borrow money to buy a home or leverage their home equity to repair their homes.
If you flash back to 1981 when the average mortgage rate according to Freddie Mac data was 16.63% , the current 5% mortgaged rates seem not so bad. Today, people cannot imagine paying that type of high interest rate. However, the big difference is that you could buy a very nice home in 1981 for $200,000 and now the price is many more times that. The overall cost of home ownership is changing because of higher principal and interest costs due to higher interest rates.
In addition to the higher rates, at some point the fixed income and interest of CDs and money market funds will eventually rise. Now the interest rates are below 1%. Most are at .1 to .5%. As interest rates increase, the interest rates that you get from bank savings will increase again. In the year 2000 it was possible to get 5% CD rates; money market rates were not much lower than that. In fact, many retired people used to live off the interest rates paid from their money markets and CD’s. Over the last 20 years, it has been impossible to do that since the rates have been so low. Potentially, we may see that reality again. Currently, you would be lucky to get a 1% CD rate for one year and, with inflation over 8.5%, you would lose 7.5% by trying to be safe with your money. This is not a good strategy in this environment. If rates go up, and inflation is below the interest rate, that equation gets a little bit better. The third factor to deal with is the taxes on the interest paid. The goal is to at least try to keep up with inflation, if possible.
Above only CDs and money market accounts were discussed. Now, it’s bonds. There are several types of bonds and many of them have similar characteristics. There are corporate bonds, US Government Bonds, and state and county municipal bonds. There are other variations of bonds, but these are the main categories. In general, municipal bonds pay tax free interest and corporate bonds pay taxable interest. They are both rated by their financial stability. The more highly rated, the lower the interest that they pay. More risky rated bonds pay higher interest rates. This article is about inflation and interest rates, so the bond information will be limed to that. The bonds that were issued over the past 20 years had low interest rates. As bond interest rates go up with inflation, and with the Fed raising the discount rate, the value of older bonds with lower interest rates will drop in value if they are not held to maturity. The reason is based on the income that they generate. If you have a $100,000 bond paying 3%, that is generating $3000 per year. If the new bonds pay 4%, a $100,000 bond generates $4000 in interest per year. If you needed to sell your 3% bond in a 4% environment, you would get less than the face value depending on how much time is left on the bond. The moral of the story is that lower interest rate bonds tend to go down in value in rising interest rate markets.
These are some of the things that will be going on as inflation and higher interest rates become part of the new landscape. If you need any help navigating through your personal finances, please feel free to email me at marcs@ equityplanning.com and I will be happy to answer your questions.
Equity Planning Inc. 7910 Woodmont Ave., Suite 900, Bethesda, MD 20814
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This piece is not intended to provide specific legal, tax, or other professional advice. For a comprehensive review of your personal situation, always consult with a tax or legal advisor. Neither Cetera Advisor Networks LLC nor any of its representatives may give legal or tax advice.
151 OCEANA
152 JOHN ERIC HOMEMYTHICAL The Islands of Tahiti are a mythical destination. The mere mention of them calls to mind visions of an idyllic island paradise. One that is secluded, tropical and lush. One of spending lazy days on the beach, consuming delicious tropical foods and drinks, and a slowing down to live a more peaceful lifestyle. And it is just that. But unpacking the myth that is Tahiti is akin to opening a beautiful Russian doll…
Opening the first doll – when most say Tahiti, they are referring to Tahiti Island, which is the largest and main island of the Society Islands. Opening the second doll – the Society Islands is an archipelago of the Islands of Tahiti. Now comes the third – the Islands of Tahiti create French Polynesia. And here is the fourth – French Polynesia sits in the same neighborhood as the Cook Islands and the Pitcairn Islands in the South Pacific. You get the idea…
Many visitors to French Polynesia opt for staying on the main island – Tahiti – or its famous sister – Bora Bora – but there are many amazing places to indulge your beachcombing dreams throughout the Islands of Tahiti. And while the vibe is generally the same, each of the Tahitian islands are just a bit different. (And now comes the cascade of the opening of the remaining dolls when speaking of the different archipelagos).
SOCIETY ISLANDS
The Society Islands include the country’s main and largest island, Tahiti, her stunning sister island, Moorea, Marlon Brando’s Tetiaroa paradise atoll, Bora Bora, and multiple other world-class islands in between.
Papeete is the capital of the Island of Tahiti. Once a sleepy port town, its streets hum with cars, motorized scooters and colorful buses known as “le truck.” Shops overflow with clothing, jewelry, locally made handcrafts, and tourist trinkets. Restaurants and sidewalk cafes serve Tahitian, French and Asian cuisine. A trip to Tahiti is never complete without a visit to Le Marché, Papeete’s popular open-air market. The first floor of this lively marketplace is dedicated to selling beautiful plants and flowers, tropical fruit, vegetables, vanilla and brilliantly colored, freshly caught fish. The second floor is abundant with authentic souvenirs, offering everything from genuine Marquesan woodcarvings to colorful Tahitian pareos.
Tahiti A mythical destination
Leaving the center, lush foothills emerge as a background. Waterfalls cascade, bougainvillea bloom, and the beach beckons. Tahiti’s iconic velvety black beaches surround Polynesia’s two highest peaks and lead to popping pink coral reefs. Azure waters lap the sand as sunbathers gently nap in hammocks hung from palm trees.
It’s all that you imagine and more.
No one can forget perhaps the most famous of the Society Islands, Bora Bora. Known for its blue lagoon, this island is a place of remarkable beauty. Its magic is understood immediately upon arrival. The lagoon itself is an unbelievable palette of blue, sapphire and turquoise. Underneath its surface, immense coral formations teem with a variety of brightly colored fish. Adding to this dramatic setting is the iconic Mount Otemanu, which is the crown jewel of the island, rising sharply from the lagoon’s center. There is only one navigable pass in this vast lagoon, meaning the calm waters, intricate coral reefs and vibrant marine life remain pristine and protected. Known for its overwater bungalows, the luxurious resorts provide the perfect setting for their guests to enjoy the countless blue hues of the island’s infamous lagoon.
Bora Bora is quite possibly the most breathtaking place in the world. This island induces a sense of calm and peace. It is impossible not to relax in its atmosphere.
TUAMOTU ISLANDS
Though not nearly as famous as the Society Islands, the Tuamotu Islands consist of 77 atolls spread over 930 miles.
These islands form the largest chain on earth. Coconut plantations cover the islet of the coral barrier reef. The beauty of the lagoons, unique underwater world, and white sand beaches make the Tuamotu a unique group of islands.
One of the world’s best destinations for scuba diving, the 240 islets of Rangiroa, string together in the ocean, encircling a deep lagoon. The beautiful loop is surrounded by two different species of ocean – the Moana-tea (Peaceful Ocean) which defines the lagoon, and the Moana-uri (Wild Ocean) where whales, manta rays, dolphins, and sharks entertain in a show that is remembered for a lifetime.
On land, the main villages of Avatoru and Tiputa offer visitors a unique look at the South Pacific. Along the few roads that exist, you’ll encounter coral churches, craft centers, local restaurants, and a few shops operated by locals. Wine lovers can also enjoy wine tasting at the Dominique Auroy Estate nestled within a coconut grove, which produces three grape varieties. Jewelry lovers will appreciate the black pearl farms, which dot the lagoon. A visit to Rangiroa has it all.
GAMBIER ISLANDS
Located nearly 1,000 miles southeast of Tahiti, this archipelago is the most remote and the least populated of French Polynesia. Only around 1,000 people live here, and the archipelago is created by 14 islands, the largest being Mangareva.
Polynesian mythology tells of Mangareva being lifted from the ocean floor by the demi-god Maui. The mountains of Mangareva rise over the surrounding islands and lagoon like a great cathedral. Here people live a traditional Polynesian lifestyle.
These islands are the important supply source for the Tahitian cultured pearl industry. Along with the pearl farms and tours of the island by road or boat, travelers can also explore the surprising number of surviving churches, convents, watchtowers, and schools from the 1800s. Some structures are still in use such as St. Michel of Rikitea Church where the altar is inlaid with iridescent mother-of-pearl shell. Mangareva is as traditionally Polynesian as it gets.
MARQUESAS ISLANDS
If you want to see breathtaking high cliffs, volcanic peaks, amazing black sand beaches, gorgeous bays, and lush rainforests where thousands of artifacts lie and wild horses, goats, and boars roam – the Marquesas Islands are for you. Located 932 miles from Papeete, they offer the traveler a trip of a lifetime. Home to marine life, the Marquesas Islands offer world-class scuba diving for visitors seeking a look at the wildlife. These are also the islands that Herman Melville and Paul Gaugin chose to live on to spark their creativity.
Herman Melville wrote one of his most famous novels – Typee – in 1846 after being influenced by his adventures in the Taipivai Valley. The novel tells the story of a sailor wandering an uninhabited island, fearful of cannibals, until he is ultimately discovered by the Taipi clan. The clan surprisingly welcomes him with open arms, and he is the first European to come into contact with this secluded community on this remote island in the Pacific Ocean. Herman Melville was the sailor, and he returned from French Polynesia to tell his story. Visitors to the islands of the Marquesas can follow in the footsteps of Melville, and see the numerous artifacts encapsulated in the archipelago’s rich back roads, as if time stood still.
Famously, in the 1900’s, artist Paul Gauguin went to the Marquesan Island of Hiva Oa in search of solitude and inner peace. Visitors can walk in his footsteps, see the replica of Gauguin’s master painting “Maison du Jouir” and visit the small museum dedicated to the painter and his home. Interested visitors can also visit his grave located nearby in the Calvaire Cemetery. While he lived in the Marquesas Islands, Gauguin painted some of his most famous artwork, sourcing his inspiration from the islanders’ everyday life. The Marquesas will spark your imagination.
AUSTRAL ISLANDS
As their name implies, the Austral islands, located south of the island of Tahiti, on the Tropic of Capricorn, represent the southernmost boundary of French Polynesia. The climate is cooler than other Tahitian Islands & the ecology of these selfsufficient islands make them a charming world apart.
The archipelago is made of seven islands, five of which are inhabited and four of which are accessible by air. An untouched and mysterious land where white sand beaches clash with the intense blue of the lagoons, the Australs are off the beaten track, offering a memorable and unique experience in The Islands of Tahiti.
These islands have unimaginable landscapes. From sheer mountains to valleys and high plains featuring the Austral Islands famous farming activities. Quite a few archeological remnants hide on each island, bearing witness to a wellorganized pre-European community. The cliffs and caves of the Austral Islands are places of legends in French Polynesia. These areas used to be old burial grounds but are now a place to watch humpback whales frolic in the waters just offshore. The whales come to the Austral Islands from August to October each year to give birth.
These contrasting sceneries blend well with the friendliness of the inhabitants. Visit colorful, picturesque villages to discover the handiwork of islanders who mainly live off their artwork. Also enjoy watching fishermen, farmers, and basket weavers at work. You’re not likely to leave without a hat or woven basket to remind you of your magical time in the Austral Islands.
The Austral Islands offer a rare opportunity to discover The Islands of Tahiti in a different light.
TOP 5 ROOFTOP BARS IN MELBOURNE
A rooftop bar is a splendid place to imbibe a cocktail, and Melbourne Australia has so many to choose from. If you travel Down Under, make sure to stop by one of these locales and grab a drink (alcoholic or non-alcoholic, your preference!)
ROOFTOP BAR
Can’t forget the name here – it literally is what it is. The Rooftop Bar has become a Melbourne institution and favorite location to enjoy a drink. Set on the seventh story of Curtin House, it provides spectacular views of the skyline.
Level 7, 252 Swanston Street, Melbourne.
THE QT
You don’t have to be a guest at the QT Melbourne to experience its lavish environment. Just head to its rooftop bar any night of the week to take in this exciting venue and its fantastic views across inner-city Melbourne.
11/133 Russell Street, Melbourne.
MADAME BRUSSELS
This unique spot – with its AstroTurf and old-fashioned garden furniture – is quirky. Its terrace boasts a great view of Melbourne that can be enjoyed while sipping on your favorite libation.
59 Bourke Street, Melbourne.
GOLDILOCKS ROOFTOP BAR
Leave the bustle of the Melbourne CBD behind and enter a fairytale venue that focuses on local craft wine and beer, with a touch of the weird and wonderful. If you’re in the mood for a cocktail, there’s a range of Goldilocks-inspired options, including the Baby Bear, Into the Forest, and Broken Chair.
Level 4, 264 Swanston Street, Melbourne CBD.
CAPTAIN BAXTER
Though outside of Melbourne, it’s worth the trip. This beach bar and restaurant takes inspiration from 1920 beach bungalows and has a fully retractable roof to bring the outdoors in. It also keeps the summer vibes going all year long with the rooftop deck. The bar is the perfect place to enjoy panoramic views of the seaside with a cocktail in hand.
St. Kilda Sea Baths, 10/ 10-18 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda.
Melbourne
SNAPSHOT
New Zealand
Sure, it takes a long time to travel there, but New Zealand is one of the most breathtaking countries on Earth and definitely worth the trip. John Eric Home spoke with Meg Szulinski, an American expat who now lives at the bottom of the world, who shared her life and thoughts on this island nation.
JEH: As an expat living in New Zealand, what do you find most intriguing about the country? MS: Being the home of bungee jumping, New Zealand has gained a reputation as an extreme adventure destination. Yet, they are also famous for their “Great Walks.” New Zealanders take walking to a whole new level. No matter where you are in the country, you are always close to amazing outdoor hikes for every ability and skill set. Literally getting out and seeing the country continues to intrigue me.
JEH: What was the easiest (aside from language) aspect for you to grip? MS: New Zealand is an unbelievably safe country. With the possible exception of Auckland (it’s the largest city in the country), New Zealanders are known to leave their doors unlocked at night when they go sleep. Now, I don’t know if I’d go that far myself, but I do feel incredibly safe here. I never worry when my children are out and about.
JEH: What was the most challenging aspect to overcome? MS: Driving on the “wrong side of the road!” I’d never driven on the left side of the road. Tourists have a terrible reputation in New Zealand for always causing road accidents. I was terrified of creating an international incident.
JEH: Can you speak a little on the culture of New Zealand? MS: I would describe NZ as having three distinct cultures: the Māori (mauri), Pakahi (pa:kəhi), and Kiwi. The Māori is often the obvious cultural draw to NZ. This group of Pacifica arrived and colonized NZ before the Europeans arrived. Theirs is a more spiritual connection to the land and a deeper link to the Pacific Island traditions. The AngloEuropean settlers that came later are known locally today as Pakahi. The phrase refers to those specifically with strong Scottish and British roots. Finally, Kiwis are a blend of both Maori and Pakahi. It’s the unique blending of both histories to create their own new culture over time that exists today.
JEH: What do you like best about the country? MS: New Zealanders have a strong sense of fairness. Corruption is not tolerated at all. It’s no surprise that the longest running NZ tv show (first aired in 1977) is called “Fair Go”, which focuses on calling to account NZ companies when they haven’t behaved in a responsible manner. This really speaks to the heart of New Zealanders. Afterall, it was the first country in the world to give women the right to vote. Fairness is ingrained in this country’s identity. JEH: If a visitor came to New Zealand, what would be the top three sites or activities that they should see or do? MS: 1. In Wellington you can’t miss Te Papa, the National Museum of New Zealand. It does an amazing job of encapsulating the history of this country, combined with art and culture. It’s like all of the Smithsonians thrown into one. It’s amazing! 2.Vistit the Fiordlands on the South Island. Skip Milford Sound and head to Doubtful Sound instead. Everyone goes to Milford. Its overrun with boats and tourists. Doubtful Sound has limited access which makes it less crowded but also much more relaxing. You see nature more up close in Doubtful Sound. 3.Take a bike / winery tour through Central Otago. It’s the best way to kill two birds with one stone. Otago is one of the many wine regions of NZ, boasting world-class Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Bike tours give you the opportunity to get off the beaten track and experience some amazing trails through native bush.
JEH: What do you think would surprise our readers to know about New Zealand? MS: New Zealanders don’t speak English. They speak Kiwi. Just like in the UK or Australia, there are many words that are uniquely Kiwi. Here are just a few examples: Chilly Bin = cooler, jandles = flip flops; togs = bathing suit; dairy =local small grocery shop; chippies = carpenters; sparkies = electricians.
JEH: Let’s focus on Wellington, now. What would you think was important to share with our readers about the city? MS: There’s a reason Wellington is called “Best Little Capital!” Of course, I’m biased, but without a doubt it is a fun, funky, quirky capital. It’s easily walkable, has a vibrant micro-brew sub-culture, and doesn’t take itself too seriously. There’s a little something for everyone.
JEH: In Wellington, what are the top attractions? MS: I’ve already mentioned Te Papa. That’s a must see! If you’re a Tolkein/Hobitt/Lord of the Rings fan, then a trip to the WETA Studios is a must! The famous saying in Wellington is “You can’t beat Welly on a good day!” It is notorious for its wind and rain, but not withstanding, if you are lucky enough to have good weather, then walking along the Oriental Parade to see the full beauty of the harbor is breathtaking. If you only have a short time in the city, then jump on the Cable Car and head up to the top to get a stunning view of the whole inlet. If it’s a good day, you might get lucky and see the South Island too. If you have more time, take a day trip to the Wairarapa region and enjoy some world class Sauvignon Blanc at the wineries.
JEH: Can you share with our readers one or two anecdotal stories about life in New Zealand? MS: A popular expression used by everyone young and old is “Sweet as.” It’s equivalent to saying okay or no problem. Shortly after we moved here, my then seven-year-old son came home from school one day upset. When I asked what had happened, he informed me that someone had told him he had a cute bum. I burst out laughing, realizing that, due to the Kiwi accent, my son had heard “sweet ass” when it was intended as “sweet as.”
I was once requested to provide a small gift that would be put into “a hamper” at a prize giving event. In the States, if someone refers to a hamper, I would think they were talking about a dirty clothes hamper. Since that didn’t seem logical, I explained to the organizer my confusion and requested clarification. She broke out laughing and informed me it was a picnic basket. JEH: Is there anything else that you might think of regarding traveling in New Zealand that might be of benefit to our readers? MS: It takes longer to get between towns and cities. Unlike the States where everything is connected via highways and motorways, New Zealand has only two motorways in the whole country. Almost all roads are two lanes going through small towns. The magic of this is that you see the real New Zealand and, as they say here, you get a “tiki tour” of the country, taking the slow roads while seeing stunning scenery.
The Wild Olive Andalucía is a traditional “Finca” Rural Hotel & Holiday Home, nestled above the legendary Spanish Costa del Sol and bordering the province of Cádiz on five hectares of lush, rolling hills with magnificent views.
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CARRETERA / HIGHWAY A-377 CASARES @ KM 7,8 29690 Casares, Malaga, Spain
ASIA
WALK A DAY THROUGH THE HEART OF Old Taipei
BY YI-SHENG HSU
A temple—as simple as it may seem—does a lot more than perform religious services in a city like Taipei, which appears intense in its urban design and the pace of modern life. Most temples house Taoism deities that were introduced to the island in the Qing dynasty; it was then the city started to grow and eventually took over Tainan’s dominance in the south in terms of economic and political significance. Later, however, after the rulers changed, these temples continually developed their connections with the surrounding communities and people, which together formed a unique, charming cultural landscape. Following their guidance, we shall explore the traditional area of the city and discover the traces of history hidden under the skin of modern Taipei.
We’ll start our day with a visit at Dalongdong Baoan Temple (大龍峒保安宮). As a national monument, the temple preserves all the details of traditional architecture and is worth a stop to appreciate: the layout, the materials, and the hand-crafted decorations. Constructed in the eighteenth century, the building has been restored several times, with the latest restoration taking place around the millennium. The building structures and the decorative designs were mostly repaired using traditional techniques, which allow visitors to discover the elegance of oriental classical art in every corner.
Now we hastily leave for the next stop! The neighboring traditional market is a great place to find delicious street food. I would recommend grabbing a drink at The Black Tea Drink House (紅 茶屋). Their peanut smoothie tastes brilliant with its natural flavor. But it’s not made of peanut butter, but peanut rice milk. It’s something that will wake you up better than coffee does in the morning.
Heading south, we’ll move to Dadaocheng Cisheng Temple (大稻埕 慈聖宮) for brunch. What I find particularly attractive about this Mazu temple is the food court right in front of the gate. The vendors reveal a local lifestyle illustrating how temples developed a unique status in commercial activities and social interaction. It’s also the reason why many of the townships in Taiwan are famous for their local shrines. Although their religious focus may be accessed by fewer people nowadays, their connection with the public has grown even stronger because they have redefined their own importance in people’s daily life even in a modern society.
The area of Dadaocheng (大稻埕), where Cisheng Temple is located, was once an economic center as a prosperous trading port in northern Taiwan. At its center, you’ll find remaining vestiges from numerous buildings constructed during the Qing and Japanese ruling periods. Under their historical skins lay countless stories that seamlessly interweave the destiny of the island. Dihua Street and its surrounding neighborhood definitely deserve time. Spending an afternoon here wandering its streets and lanes, you will discover the Old Town’s unsurpassed charm.
In spite of their classical, elegant appearance, many houses we randomly encounter here, in fact, bear historical burdens heavier than they seem. You’ll find Taian Hospital (大安醫院) once the place where Chiang Wei-shui (蔣渭水) and other contemporary intellectuals called for the Taiwanese collective identity under Japanese rule. Check out also the Taiwan New Cultural Movement Memorial Hall (臺灣新文化運動 紀念館) for a closer look at those well-preserved cells, in which police used to torture prisoners. And don’t miss Tianma Tea House (天馬茶 房), where the trigger for the 228 Incident took place, which resulted in a massive violent suppression that remains controversial even now.
Dadaocheng records both the beauty and sorrow of the past. Nowadays the area assembles food merchants, bringing modern vitality to the streets surrounding the Taipei Xiahai City God Temple (臺北霞海城隍廟) and Yongle Market (永樂市場). The Xiahai City God Temple is famous as the home of Yue Lao, the god of love and marriage in Chinese mythology. Interestingly, it was only fifty years ago that the temple installed the deity, though its history traces back to the early nineteenth century. Yue Lao nowadays attracts many young people who pray for a relationship and marriage.
When the sun begins to set, the old town offers plenty of food options that will satisfy your taste buds. In addition to the cafes and restaurants scattered around, you will also find snacks at the Pier Plaza. Here you can nibble while enjoying subtropical breezes by the Tamsui River. Do take Ningxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) into consideration; its Fang Chia Shredded Chicken on Rice (方家雞肉飯) has been consecutively selected in the Michelin Guide for several years, which makes it one of the most well-known street food vendors in Taipei City.
Before we call it a day, I would highly recommend walking a bit farther to Bosan Cafe (珈琲 寶山) and give their hand drip coffee a try. The two unique dark roast blends taste strong and complex, full of flavors that will linger in your mouth. The interior design pays tribute to Japanese kissaten, where even sitting still can become an enjoyable activity. Alternatively, you may head to the nearby Tiaotong district (條通商圈) on Linsen North Road and immerse yourself in a Japanese style nightlife— but that would be another story.
THE TOP 5 BEACHES IN BALI
Indonesia is an enchanting country chockfull of culture, tradition, and flair. Of course, most visitors travel here for its beaches. Here are the top five beaches on the island of Bali…
SEMINYAK BEACH, SOUTH BALI
Most agree, this is the best beach on Bali. Seminyak, which lies between Kuta and Legian in the western conurbation. The three-mile beach is a stretch of white-sand backed by bars, restaurants, and quality hotels all from which the beach is at your doorstep.
NUSA DUA BEACH, SOUTH BALI
The white sand of this beach is simply gorgeous. Nusa Dua is a resort area of Bali, where there are fine hotels intermingled with palm trees set on pristine sands. Once a mangrove area, the reclaimed beach is nearly 9 miles long.
BALANGAN BEACH, BUKIT PENINSULA, SOUTH BALI
Balangan is one of the top surfing beaches in Bali. It yields an interesting mix of surfers, backpackers, and those who want a laid-back vibe while soaking in the sun. Rustic restaurants serve local Indonesian food and offer ice-cold drinks (which are always in high demand.) Although the beach is not a big one (less than half a mile) adding in the cliffs and reef make it one of the top in Indonesia simply for its stunning setting.
PADANG PADANG BEACH, ULUWATU
Although you may not realize it, if you have watched the movie Eat Pray Love you have already been introduced to this idyllic beach. It found fame through the film and deserves the recognition. Situated in a lovely bay, it sits court for perfect Indonesian sunrises. Although small, it attracts sunbathers and surfers.
ECHO BEACH, CANGGU
Echo Beach is one of the trendiest places to go, with chic bars, hip restaurants, and great boutiques. So much so that you can find yourself stuck in a traffic jam heading to the beach regardless of the time of day (so, if you choose Echo Beach, book a hotel nearby.) What makes this beach special is its black sand which strikes a great contrast to the blue sea.
Imagine a place where a profusion of scents from myriad tropical flowers in bloom engulf you. Where tall mountains, decked in all shades of green, serve as the gorgeous backdrop to a charming town dazzle you. Where birdsong fills the air. And brightly colored tuk-tuks make their way down lush, tree-lined streets buzzing past parked American cars dating back to the 1950s. Where other birds – roosters to be specific – amble alongside these same tuk-tuks without a care in the world. Imagine a bamboo bridge spanning the snakelike belly of the Mekong River, and morning commuters quickly and fearlessly traversing its wooden slots. While a man dressed in khaki shorts and a cerulean-blue t-shirt waters a meticulously arranged vegetable garden that creeps up from the riverbank. Don’t forget the gentle breezes that ruffle blouses and caress cheeks. Have you set the picture in your head? Welcome to Luang Prabang, Laos.
Luang Prabang, Laos is – simply put – enchanting. Set in Indochina, it is the destination of backpackers, Foodies, and the ultra-hip crowd. It is easily accessed by plane from Bangkok and well worth the trip. Because of its size, visitors can use their own feet and a handy map to negotiate its streets. Warning though – it is incredibly hot and humid, even in the winter months. As you would imagine (that imagination again) a tropical destination to be. So be prepared.
For being small, Luang Prabang packs an incredibly big punch. Art galleries, five-star restaurants, French cafés, openair markets, spas, Buddhist temples, and historic sites dot its streets. Its feel is fresh and new yet steeped in history. A former French colony, its culture is a mix of European, Asian, and traditional Lao. And its people? They are the friendliest that you will ever meet.
There are indulgences here. Spas to enjoy a mid-afternoon massage. Art galleries to lose time in. Buddhist temples to duck into to escape the heat and admire beautiful mosaics. Cafes where a Café au Lait rival those in France. And the food? Amazing. Lao food is clean and light and absolutely delicious. Choices of dining range from small eateries (where a waiter will crack open a coconut at your table and offer you a straw) to upscale establishments that serve world-class fusion dishes.
Enchantress A REAL-LIFE
SPEAKING OF FOOD…
If you travel to Luang Prabang and are looking to do something memorable, make sure to take a cooking class at Tamarind. This restaurant hosts group classes and is a complete experience. It begins with a morning excursion to a food market. A guide teaches how to choose the perfect ingredients which are later used during the cooking class itself. Then it is off to an idyllic outdoor kitchen and the instruction begins. Students sip on lemongrass tea while learning the ins-and-outs of Lao cooking. Finally, as a group, everyone dines on their created dishes. The school provides you with a small cookbook at the end to practice your new skills at home. Speaking of markets…
Every night as the sun goes down, Luang Prabang heats further up. But it is not the temperature that climbs, it is the outdoor revelry. One thing not to be missed is the night market which is set up centrally in the area where most tourists stay. Here, you will find everything from packs of playing cards to local art to touristy mementoes. Laos is known as The Land of a Million Elephants and the elephant is paid homage to in countless items in the market. You may even find a special keepsake, such as a wooden marionette of a monk.
SPEAKING OF MONKS…
The sight of hundreds of monks lining the streets of this World Heritage Town to collect food from local people is truly awe-inspiring – a photo opportunity that most tourists are willing to set their alarms for. Sai Bat (morning alms) takes place between 5-6am each day and involves people placing food and personal care items into the alms bowls of passing monks. Among the monks are many child novices, also dressed in orange robes. They are small of stature and sweet of face. It’s a silent and sacred ceremony – one that is steeped in tradition. You can hear a pin drop as it takes place.
One of the benefits of staying in Luang Prabang is its easy access to activities in the region. A visit to the Pak Ou cave (the most holy site in Laos) or the Kwangsi Waterfall (with its dual cascading waterworks) is easy to arrange. You can book a small speedboat trip down the Mekong or try your hand at kayaking on one of the river’s tributaries. Tour operators will pick you up at your hotel.
A very important thing to mention is this – if you decide to travel to Laos, NEVER leave marked paths. There are still active landmines that remain scattered across the countryside from the Vietnam War.
Also, although it is “cooler” in the winter, you will not want to go during the slash and burn season which typically takes place in the February/March timeframe. Laos is an agrarian nation, and the Laos implement this method of cultivation, in which forests and fields are burned and cleared for planting. Most of its jaw-dropping scenery is obstructed by a heavy, hazy smoke.
SNAPSHOT
Mumbai
Mumbai, India is an extraordinary city. It is a bustling beehive of activity. As India’s financial center, it is cosmopolitan and very modern. Long gone are the days of “Far off Bombay.” Its tempo is frenetic. John Eric Home has sat down with Naushad Contractor, a denizen of the city, to discuss the essence of Mumbai.
JEH: How would you describe living in Mumbai? NC: Living in Mumbai is like living in a video game where you get only one chance. I think that is why videogaming is not that popular in India because we live the video game.
JEH: Intriguing response. What do you mean by that? NC: It means that, like in a video game, it is so uncertain as to whether the blockage or the villain will come from the left or the right or the top or the bottom. Driving in Mumbai – you don’t know whether it is going to be a human being or a dog or a cow that you will need to negotiate. Will the car in front of me stay in its lane or break and come into mine? Will a train suddenly be there? Will there be a roadblock due to some religious festival? That kind of stuff is so unpredictable, and that’s why it’s like a videogame. And there is only one chance, because in the video game you normally get at least 3 chances.
JEH: What is your favorite aspect of living in this city? NC: No one really cares who you are – while there are those more celebrity focused, they are a minority. In Mumbai, everyone is so busy with doing their own thing and minding their own business that they stay out of your business. And you mind your own.
JEH: What is a special site or activity that a visitor must not miss? NC: Mumbai has a very nice Jewish synagogue. It has many celebrated beaches and many not so celebrated ones. The lesser-known beaches are cleaner and less crowded. The thing about Mumbai is that there is something for everyone. Whether you are culturally inclined and want to watch a play, or you’re architecturally inclined and want to just admire the city’s buildings, you can find your own space. The architecture is something to see as it seamlessly combines modernity and the Victorian era. I would definitely recommend that a visitor take in the Victorian buildings. They are unique and beautiful. Even London doesn’t have these types. For example, the Victoria Terminus – now called the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus – is the largest railway station in the world and quite amazing in and of itself.
JEH: Would you recommend seeing Dharavi? NC: I would. Dharavi is the world’s largest slum. It is a city within a city. Over a million people live there stretching back generations. It has its own leather industry and other small industries. It really is an amazing living organism in the heart of Mumbai. It’s usually possible to shy away from slums but this is a slum a.) on a different scale and b.) with so many intricacies that it is something to see. JEH: Let’s talk a bit about cuisine in Mumbai. The city is international and has diversity in foreign fare, but what about its Indian food. More specifically, its street food. What would you recommend? NC: I would encourage people to eat the street food but not of the streets. It may not be conducive to foreign palettes and stomachs. You can find the same foods in restaurants throughout the city.
JEH: And what about shopping? NC: When shopping, go for leathers. Jackets, handbags, belts, shoes. But I encourage street shopping for trinkets. Even if you don’t buy anything, the experience is fun. Of course, bargaining is part of that experience. But it is important to understand that the 50 rupees that you pay them less doesn’t really impact you – it’s less than a dollar – but it greatly impacts them. So don’t bargain that hard. I call it a small donation.
JEH: How would you capture the essence – the spirit – of Mumbai? NC: Mumbai, with all its busyness, has a heart, and it will always help people who need help. It also has a “never die” spirit. This spirit is visible in, say, the monsoon season. Even if there is waist high water, people are trying to get to their work. And, when the attacks on Mumbai occurred, the next day people were right back to work.
181 MIDDLE EAST
THE TOP 5 ANCIENT RUIN SITES IN JORDAN
Petra is perhaps one of the most renowned ruins in the world. But Jordanite ruin sites extends far beyond this oftphotographed site. Here are the top five sites to visit if traveling to Jordan…
PETRA
Of course, Petra tops the list. The “Rose City” built by ancient Nabataeans has become a symbol of Jordan. Plan to spend hours here winding your way through narrow red gorges, admire the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), explore the numerous rock-cut tombs, and hike all the way out to the Monastery (Al-Deir.)
DESERT CASTLES – QASR AMRA AND QASR AL-AZRAQ
At Qasr Amra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, breathtaking frescoes depict an array of hunting scenes, animals, plants, zodiac figures, and constellations. Qasr al-Azraq has a history stretching back into antiquity, though its current appearance is largely due to 13th-century construction in black basalt. This fortress boasts incredible doors made from large blocks of stone and is also famous for having housed T.E. Lawrence, the author of Lawrence of Arabia.
LITTLE PETRA
Also built by the Nabataeans, likely around the 1st century CE, Little Petra features even more rock-cut buildings, impressively hewn and carved out of cliffs and mountainsides. A highlight of Petra is The Painted House, a small room with a well-preserved ceiling fresco that depicts birds and twisting grapevines.
JERASH
Jerash evidences settlements from the Neolithic (75005500 BCE) and Bronze Ages (3200-1200 BCE) as well as the city’s role in the Hellenistic world (323-31 BCE). From 63 BC onward, Jerash and its surroundings belonged to Rome and the settlement received a visit from Emperor Hadrian, which occasioned the construction of a triumphal arch to celebrate his visit to the city. This arch remains standing today. The ruins are sprawling and expansive.
GADARA (UMM QAIS)
The ruins at Umm Qais attract fewer crowds than Jerash, which allows a leisurely exploration. Colonnaded streets, temples, baths, a theater, and a hippodrome area easily strolled through. Gadara’s dramatic setting offers panoramic views over the ruins and their vast surroundings. Visitors can see the Sea of Galilee, Golan Heights, and at times into Lebanon.