Modisch_ The contemporary magazine for the contemporary man_
After years of flicking through mens lifestyle magazines, I found that all my tastes and preferences regarding these publications were never satisfied. So, the chance to lead a highly dedicated team to produce an entirely new men’s magazine concept from scratch, was something I grabbed with both hands.
Editor’s Note
Modisch wants to retain the art of masculinity, while reporting on fashion, art and grooming. Too many of todays publications create the illusion of being full of hot air i.e. featuring clothes that could not possibly be worn and ideas and happenings that don’t appeal to the average male. Think of Modisch as a non-pretentious, non-patronising guide to the life of a modern gentleman. We don’t want you to see the publication as something you must read cover to cover, nor follow religiously. However, we do hope that you can look at all the things we present to you and enjoy them. The main drive behind Modisch was to create a magazine that could appeal to a wide audience. Therefore, all the products and brands that are featured are all affordable, something, which, as a team, Modisch thought would be extremely important. We hope you enjoy reading it as much as we have producing it.
Jonathan Bracewell
Contributors A small thank you to some of the team who made Modisch possible.
Chris Nawrocki Videographer
Kelli Finn Hair and Make-Up artist
James Wells Model
Contents
Todd Mclellan Universal Works Modisch Loves Snap, Flash, Develop Russ Yallop Look Right, Look Forward Folk The White Shirt Ulrich Strothjohann Alexey Titarenko Grenson Danish Design Auchentoshan Bodies in Urban Space Norse Projects Marc Lilius and Simon Claridge Behind The Other Lens Markus Kison 12:31 Jim Chapman Anthony Logistics Perfect Preening Products Cut-Throat Shave
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Canadian artist Todd Mclellan dives delicately into the world of detail, by intricately taking apart electronic goods piece by piece. The series, called ‘disassembly’ also features shots of dismantled objects seemingly frozen in mid-air.
Mclellan is part of the Toronto based production company Sugino studio and more of his work can be seen through his website. www.toddmclellan.com
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Todd Mclellan
in just three short years is quite unbelievable, especially in the recent times of economic uncertainty.
Universal Works Universal Works is a great example of a true British brand. Great time and energy is invested in new fabrics and technologies, which shine through with the quality of each garment. The team there specialise in making ‘clothing you want to wear and clothing that you will look good in’.
Heading up Universal Works is David Keyte, a man who has spent nearly twenty years in the fashion industry. After ten years at Paul Smith, Keyte went on to lead Maharishi for five years while also dabbling in projects with Albam and
Margaret Howell. Very impressive we all can agree, but what about his own creation?
Autumn / Winter 10 showed just how well the brand had developed after only two previous collections. Think modern day workwear with firm British traditions. Heavy crew neck jumpers and workshirts are definite staples but flashes of technical, heavy outerwear are juxtaposed with beautifully delicate tees. Keyte has managed something here, which one does not come across very often. You wouldn’t feel uncomfortable stepping out in an entire outfit of Universal Works. There would be no awkward silence as you delivered the same answer every time someone cross-examined your outfit.
Since emerging onto the radar of the fashion conscious in 2008, a very substantial list of successful retail outlets (many of which are U.K. based) are now loyal stockists of the young brand. This is testament to Keyte’s hard work and determination to deliver quality over trends and fads. To form this strength of following
Small factories are the focus of the Universal Works world where fabrics such as 3 by 1 cotton twill and waxed/chambray canvas are carefully pieced together to make garments that will last season after season. Perhaps these methods are not exactly beneficial for Keyte’s bank balance but it this production process that makes the collections so strong. With a list of positive characteristics one could automatically assume that the range is expensive. Not in the slightest. Another key highlight of the brands appeal is its affordability. Shirts and knitwear sit around an average price of £100 which considering the detail and individuality is an absolute steal. We recommended you to obtain your own piece of this fast-growing fashion house. Before the good news reaches the masses and you ask a well-dressed male where he obtained his jacket. ‘It’s all Universal Works,’ he will answer.
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MOD
ODEUR CLOTHING
ISC H
O’CLOCK WATCHES
Formed in 2006, this Stockholm based brands debut collection consisted of a small number of graphic printed t-shirts. Now, with Petter Hollstrom and Gorjan Lauseger as creative directors, Odeur now produces all manner of garments and experiment vigorously with new colours and fabrics. Their most recent collection was presented at Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week and this can be seen on the website.
CHAPMAN BAGS
‘The O’Clock watch is a silicon timepiece that is produced in Italy’. At the crest of a popularity wave, the O’Clock brand seems to be on everyones lips as the latest watch brand to use alternative materials. The design is simple but clever, and the piece can be worn fitted like a standard watch or loose like a bracelet. At around £25.00, it is also much cheaper than its competitiors.
LO 9
V
ES
John Chapman uses traditional techniques in his workshop in Carlisle to produce hand-crafted bags. The company is based on a strong ethos of high quality products and nurturing relationships with its customers. Chapman produce five collections: bespoke (suiting), classic (canvas), country (rod and gun), estate (tweed) and reiver (leather). Prices are dependent on which collection they fall into but you will be looking to spend anywhere from £120 - £400.
FALKE SOCKS
German based Falke offer a wide selection of luxury footwear for both men and women but it is currently the males who are snapping them up in Britain. Stocked in several of the most respected and up and coming independent stores in the country. Treat your feet!
ART OF SHAVING BRUSH
NEAL’S YARD LAVENDER The Art of Shaving brushes are specifically designed to produce a thick lather and brings the hairs away from the face. A rare purchase, go for quality and there are not many products on the current market which can match this brush.
This essential oil is incredibly flexible. Apply to a pillow for a restful nights sleep or to shaving wounds for quicker healing, there is not much that lavender isn’t useful for. A small bottle costs £8.90 but well worth the investment.
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Snap
I find that the simple pleasures in life are best. This can relate to all manner of things but none more so, I believe, than having a roll of 35mm film developed. Since their inception in the 19th century, cameras have developed in shape, size and quality. The very method of how an image is processed has inevitably also changed, due to the development of digital technology.
what many deemed possible. The birth of the digital camera meant that images were now captured through an electronic image sensor. In turn, these are then stored on a compatible storage device, such as a memory card. The number of images which can be stored is dependent on the size of the memory card. All this you have probably heard before, generic facts and common sense aplenty, but why am I really here discussing cameras? I The term ‘camera’ derives from the Latin am here to fight the losing battle of the term ‘camera obscura’ which basically traditional film camera and tell you why means ‘dark chamber’, in reference to their you should invest in the past, rather than construction in early development stages. the future. All work on the same principle. A hole is placed at the front and through this, My first strong memory of a camera was light is received. A lens manipulates and around 1998 (not that long ago I know), focuses the light on a capturing surface, when I went on a family holiday to which is situated to the rear of the camera. Majorca. My mother had recently In simple terms, a camera works in the purchased a film camera, which looked same way as an eye. not dissimilar to that of a modern day disposable, perhaps slightly more bulky. I Where once all images were processed remember getting into a pose by the pool, on photographic film, at a relatively slow waiting for my mother to say: ‘smile’, and rate, advancements in technology now then that moment was captured. I didn’t mean that photography has surpassed know what the image looked like, nor did 11
Flash
Develop my mother, but it was something about this that made the photograph seem more natural. It wasn’t edited or retaken. The memory was captured there and then. Repeat this method 35 times and a roll of film/memories is complete. Everyone recalls waiting for photographs to be processed. It is quite a magical experience. Once received, they are flicked through with pleasure and the subtle need to expect the unexpected. All this, however, boils down to my perception of what a photograph should be. A photograph should be a moment that is captured once. This moment will never repeat itself, nor should one try to change or manipulate it. The image should be completely natural, no retakes, no second chances. That is the beauty of the art of photography. I cannot for one minute show disapproval towards digital technology. Our generation have developed some of the greatest technological advancements ever. I find progress like this both reassuring
and fascinating. It has broadened the fields of science, creativity and healthcare (to name but a few) further than the expectations of most and in a relatively short space of time. This can also be said for the field of photography. SLR (SingleLens Reflex) cameras are amazing pieces of machinery and the inception of cameras in phones and tablets has also been inspiring to witness. It just seems a little too fabricated for me. For something that should be so individual, it seems that the use of technology has stripped this away. So to all you gentleman out there, next time you want to purchase a camera, stay away from high street deals and source a vintage film camera. A good one can be found for anywhere between £25 and £100 and range in aesthetic quality. 36 exposure 35mm film can be picked up for around £5-£6 including processing. Think of it as an investment in your memories and trust me, you won’t be disappointed.
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Russ Yallop 13
As the popularity of electronic music is constantly rising, Modisch catches up with one of the rising stars of the Deep house scene. Having just signed to one of the industry’s top labels and a string of E.P.’s set for release, the future looks bright for this producer.
ence ie saving up enough money for the anything different than just a blend of next year and the year after. nice tunes. Yet listeners are much more broad minded in what they like, so I At what point did you start to take was confident it would go down well. music more seriously, i.e. thinking of Are these sorts of sounds used for inpursuing it as a career? spiration when producing new tracks? To an extent, but Hip Hop has a comAt the end of my third season I finally pletely different vibe to house music realised I was kidding myself if I ever so you can only let it influence you thought I’d do a maths based job as I somewhat. wasn’t that type of personality. The tracks I had made to that point had all Whats new for 2011. We have seen been simple yet had been popular with you play the recent Crosstown Rebels friends so I decided to dedicate my life showcase. More of this to follow? And to production. productions? It’s fair to say you produced one of the EP’s of the year in 2010 with ‘I can’t Wait’. Were you surprised with its success?
A maths degree seems quite a strange direction to have taken, considering the position you are in now. How was it? It was literally another world compared to what I’m doing now. Extremely tough mental gymnastics basically. If I took any of the exams again no joke I would get 0%. You lived and studied in Bath? How did this influence your musical direction? It didn’t! Bath is not a musical city at all. Thanks to Juno Records it didn’t matter though.
Were there many musical avenues for you to explore whilst at university e.g. promoting, producing etc.?
Yes have more Rebel Raves in store and plenty of productions lined up! Watch out for The Crossroads due out on Crosstown’s sublable Rebellion.
I was surprised in as much as surprised What does Russ Yallop do to relax? it was finally happening for me. However, I was confident the tracks would Not much! I watch NBA basketball and be popular as they’d already been play poker when I’m not in the studio. getting great support from the likes of Damian (Lazarus), Jamie (Jones) and Lee (Curtiss). Working closely with Crosstown Rebels must have been a dream come true. In what ways has it changed your status as a DJ/producer?
It’s a seal of approval really. Perception is such an important factor in music and is massively underestimated as taste making factor. I contribute at least half of my success so far to being on Crosstown which is widely perceived as being a stamp of quality. You can still make it without being part of a big label however it will take you twice as long as not only will people fail to hear your music in the first place but they’ll also perceive it in a completely different light. A recent podcast for Ibiza Voice shows heavy sampling of nineties hip-hop tracks. Very interesting for your fans – tell us a bit about the mix.
Not at university. I was djing the whole time I was there for extra cash however it wasn’t until afterwards I had enough The mix was I suppose an attempt at time on my hands to start producing. doing something different. A live Dj set is obviously all the tunes you play at a So, after finishing university, what gig, with a podcast you have the opporwere your plans? tunity to do something a bit more experimental. So for that particular mix I didn’t really have any. I went straight I gave the start of it a real party-time to Ibiza for my first season and the next hip hop edge. I think most DJs are so few years centered around that experi- narrow minded and scared to really do
Look right. Look forward.
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cardigan by RALPH LAUREN cardigan by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND shirt by FOLK jeans by EDWIN boots by REDWING
shirt by NORSE PROJECTS chords by ALBAM socks by UNIQLO watch by EMPORIO ARMANI shoes by TRICKERS FOR PRESENT
coat by YMC shirt by NORSE PROJECTS chords by ALBAM socks by UNIQLO watch by EMPORIO ARMANI shoes by TRICKERS FOR PRESENT
blazer by ALBAM shirt by UNIQLO chinos by OUR LEGACY shoes by TRICKERS FOR PRESENT watch (models own)
coat by BURBERRY shirt by ALBAM chords by ALBAM boots by TRICKERS scarf by OI POLLOI watch (models own)
over shirt by NORSE PROJECTS shirt by RALPH LAUREN jeans by APC tie by E.TAUTZ
tank top by E.TAUTZ jumper by E.TAUTZ shirt by RALPH LAUREN jeans by APC tie by E.TAUTZ shoes by TRICKERS FOR PRESENT watch (models own)
Folk
The word Folk derives from the Germanic term of ‘people or army’ and the Londonbased unisex brand, which create under the same name, are certainly amassing an ‘army’ of followers. Founded in 2001 by Cathal Mcateer, Folk concentrate on providing its customer with well-crafted garments, which have a constant underlying tinge of Scandinavian design ethic. Final products draw attention to themselves for all the right reasons. No chest-sprawling logos or eyeperplexing graphical prints will be caught attached to a Folk creation, rather, beautiful fabrics that are durable yet provide its wearer with unrivalled comfort. One sometimes gets the feeling that Mcateer does not want to bring attention to
the brand. However, even when shunning traditional methods of marketing and advertising, Folk has grown into a global brand. Offering five stand-alone stores and over two hundred stockists, it would seem that the fashion-conscious of today have warmed to Mcateers creations, in a big way.
and beautifully crafted cords. The brand also does shoes. Again, heavy Norse influence is present throughout.
Through the Folk website, a link to their journal lets the customer dive a little deeper and see what really inspires people who are linked to the brand. It also keeps up-to-date with news of its stockists, It is sometimes hard to imagine that Folk showing a more personal and respectful is truly a British brand and has no Scandi- side. One not normally seen with such an navian roots. Playful details that someestablished brand. times appear are synonymous with this area, along with the spectrum of colours used in each collection. Blues and reds are normally a staple and Mcateer likes to throw flashes of pastels (think dusty pink) and earthy tones (light biscuit) into the equation. The garments themselves range from chunky cardigans to airy T-shirts
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shirt by HUGO BOSS cardigan by RALPH LAUREN
The White Shirt Women have the LBD and men have the white shirt. A staple of any mans wardrobe, so Modisch shows what to look at when deciding which one is right for you. 28
The Buttons
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The Collar
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The Stitching
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The Placket Front
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Ulrich Strothjohann
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A recent exhibition at the MOT International, London, showed just how strong German sculpture Ulrich Strothjohann’s work actually is. Many critics and curators believe that there is possible influence from a scene from the 1988 film Dead Ringers, which starred Jeremy Irons. The actor builds his own gynecological surgical instruments and commissions someone to produce them. Strothjohann’s pieces are nowhere near as vulgar and seem to suggest practicality and a deep thought process (as they are primarily display boxes) rather than just another abstract project.
‘City of Shadows’ is a hauntingly beautiful photography series shot by Russian photographer Alexey Titarenko. Using long exposure, he has captured residents of St. Petersburg trying to adjust to the short winter days. Consequently, the resulting images almost seem to convey the reality of ghosts, as the shadows encompass the true human form.
people and the surroundings, amalgamates the two to produce something special.
In 1983 Titarenko received a Master of Fine Arts Degree from the Department of Cinematic and Photographic Art at Due to there only being a small number the Leningrad Institute of culture and of hours of sunlight during this period, immediately moved on to photography. the area becomes a hive of activity, with In 1997 he was praised for his people panic buying and stock piling commitment and dedication to the field groceries. Almost complete confusion and invited into the Russian Union of and disarray is experienced as men and Artists. women flock to a street normally filled with vibrancy to search for the bare essentials. Titarenko uses this setting to his advantage and the images could almost be lost souls in this eerie, inhospitable setting and ‘City of Shadows’ is a very fitting name. The works were produced from 1992-1994, nearly twenty years ago, but they are among some of the best when working with long exposure. The Russian captures the mood of the
Alexey Titarenko
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Tradition and craftsmanship are the two core values that encapsulate the Grenson brand. In an industry bulging with cheap produce and mass manufacturing, it is warming to see a company still make shoes the same way they did over 100 years ago. After crafting boots and shoes from his mother’s cottage for a number of years, William Green began to employ craftsmen and buy materials through wholesale retailers in 1866. Seeing that 35
the company needed formalising, Green formed William Green & Son and word began to spread about the products durability and quality. Travelling constantly from Rushden, Northamptonshire, Green developed several relationships in London. It is with a growing reputation that Green & Son managed to obtain the services of some of the best shoe craftsmen in England. With orders increasing, the
brand opened its first factory in 1874 and developments within industry meant that new methods of construction were experimented with. Green passed away in 1901 and his son took over the reigns of the business. Around this time, the company also changed its official name and became Grenson. Grenson were the first company to use the welt method, formulated by the Goodyear tyre manufacturer. This method was used
Grenson to create the first ‘trainer’ shoe in the form of the Ked. This forward thinking also surfaced again in 1913, when Grenson became the first ever business in the U.K to register its name. It was this move that globalisation of the company was achieved. In the early 20th century, retailers across the globe were purchasing Grenson shoes in bulk, to supply the thriving demand. Growth only halted when the
depression began but this was short-lived due to Britain declaring war in 1939. At the end of 1940, Grenson was producing more shoes than ever and had over 400 people working for them.
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Danish Design Scandinavia has always been a leading area in forward thinking design. Modisch looks at three influential creatives who not just changed the landscape of creativity in their disciplines but had a huge impact on all areas of the design world.
Finn Juhl Finn Juhl was internationally recognized for his furniture design and was responsible for bringing ‘Danish Modern’ (A minimalistic style of design using Scandinavian wood) to America. Similar to Jacobsen, Juhl was pressured into a degree in architecture rather than following his dream of becoming an art historian. His career as an architect started strongly, working for ten years at Vilhelm Lauritzen’s firm and working closely on collaborations with Viggo Boesen, Lauritzen’s second in
command. Of these joint ventures, possibly the most notable was the re-designing of the Danmark’s Radio building.
Juhl left the firm in 1945 to set up his own interior and furniture design practice just outside of Copenhagen, after toying with these creative fields whilst working as an architect. His first chair, named the Pelican, was exhibited in 1939 and was met with some severe criticism. One industry professional even went as far as saying “aesthetics in the worst possible sense
of the word”. However, this did not deter Juhl, as we went on to develop his design career and become one of the most respected Danish designers of the twentieth century. It could be said that Juhl was not as popular as his peers, yet he pushed the boundaries further than most, especially Jacobsen and Mogensen, who were less radical in their designs.
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Above: BØRGE MOGENSEN
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Left: FINN JUHL Right: ARNE JACOBSEN
Børge Mogensen died at the young age of 58, but few only parallel his contribution to Danish design. After graduating from the Danish School of Arts and Crafts in 1938, Mogensen went on to study architecture whilst working at various design studios. It was around this time that he met Kaare Klint, the ‘godfather’ of Danish furniture design. Klint became a very positive design influence for the young Mogensen, who quickly developed a style that echoed minimalism and functionality.
With a background in traditional craftsmanship, Mogensen introduced furniture that was based around classical inspiration. A general public, who had not fully accepted modernism yet, warmly received this. He also developed an idea named ‘This is where we live’, which incorporated items such as workbenches and sewing desks into living rooms. This encouraged future designers to consider the fact that family members may want to do different tasks simultaneously.
Børge Mogensen
In the latter stages of his career, Mogensen collaborated with Danish weaver Lis Ahlmann to create textile designs. After Klints death in 1954, Mogensen took over his role as designer to the Danish Museum of Decorative Art.
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FINN JUHL
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Arne Jacobsen Jacobsen was discouraged by his father from an early age when attempting to go and study as a painter. Instead the more ‘secure’ option was for him to train as an architect. In 1924, Jacobsen enrolled in the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and was taught by the then high profile Danish architects and designers Kay Fisker and Kaj Gottlob. His talent was brought to light early, as he won a silver medal at Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, a Paris based Art Deco fair.
Jacobsens creative progression was halted by the development of the Second World War. Having Jewish parents meant that Jacobsen had to flee occupied Denmark to the safety of neighbouring Sweden. Here, architecture had to take a back step and Jacobson spent the next two years designing fabrics and wallpapers. In 1945, he returned to his birth land with fresh ideas and ample opportunity to build his architectural career. New buildings were needed quickly after many areas of Denmark were ravaged by the war. It was only in the fifties, when his interest in product and furniture aesthetics grew. Potentially the bestreceived work included four chairs he designed: Ant, Seven, Swan and the Egg. Jacobsen passed away suddenly at the age of 69 and left several projects unfinished. They were taken over by Dissing+Weitling, a firm created by two of his former employees. 43
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BØRGE MOGENSEN ARNE JACOBSEN BØRGE MOGENSEN ARNE JACOBSEN
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Auchentoshan
A mans body is his temple, but not even holy water can match this tipple on taste and quality. Modisch delve into the history books to tell you the story of Auchentoshan.
Whisky is certainly a gentleman’s drink. It oozes quality and sophistication, possibly even illusions of grandeur. It seems somewhat of a British institution, as some of the world’s best whiskies are produced in either Scotland or our Irish neighbours. Auchentoshan distillery was founded in 1823, just outside of Glasgow in a small town called Dalmuir. John Bulloch, owner and founder, soon went bankrupt and had to sell the business to John Hart (owner of rival distillery Bullochs) and Alexander Fishie, who’s family had lived in the area for generations. Following a disastrous harvest in 1903, the company changed hands again, this time being passed on to John and George MacLachlan, well known brewers and distillers in nearby Glasgow. Their experienced paid off and the Auchentoshan brand began to be built.
The landscape of Dalmuir changed drastically over the next fifty years, as Glasgow became the ‘second city of the British Empire’. Its population increased and transport links to the area improved drastically, meaning that the Auchentoshan product could be moved more easily. However, this was short lived, as axis forces destroyed
most of Clydebank through extensive bombing raids. Over a thousand people died in the local area but the distillery only suffered minimal damage. In fact, one of the bomb craters is now used to collect water that is used in the production of the whisky.
Auchentoshan follows the six methods that are integral to making whisky: malting, milling, mashing, fermentation, distillation and maturation. However, this drink gets its unique flavour due to the fact that triple distillation is used and it is the only distillery in Scotland to use such a process. It is more time consuming and more expensive but it is this attention to detail that makes Auchentoshan one of the finest commercially available whiskies on the market. The brands eye for quality also transpires in the fact that where many distilleries use stainless steel wash backs for fermentation, Auchentoshan uses pine imported from Oregon. A well-rounded drink for the well rounded gentleman, Auchentoshan definitely gets the Modisch stamp of approval.
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Bodies in Urban Space
In 2007 at the Festival Paris Quartier d’éte, an Austrian artist showcased an exhibition that would bring his name into the bright lights of contemporary art. Willi Dorner choreographs dancers to form ‘bodies in urban space’, temporary installations in public and semi-public arenas using human sculptures. This originality has meant that Dorner has secured exhibitions throughout Europe for the past four years. The temporary installations are supposed to highlight the relationship between an urban space and its residents. An increased understanding towards their surroundings, if you will. Dorner’s work is not only innovative, it
is only available to view for a few minutes and often, only to the lucky few who manage to walk past his creations because as quickly as they appear, they disappear.
One could imagine this to be quite scary, seeing twenty or so hooded contortionists in the middle of the night, seemingly flow from a messy stack of bodies, run down the street and bend their bodies into another stack. Luckily, it’s not just at night when these sculptures form. Dorner has been invited to exhibit his work in many areas, so the whole situation doesn’t seem as strange. All Dorners work is shot by photographer Lisa Rasti.
Scandinavian commercial design. Seemingly quite minimalistic, Norse Projects concentrate on providing its customer with quality first. The Norse knitwear is made in Italy using some of the richest cottons we have ever come across, especially for the price (average of around 150 euros for a crew neck sweater).
From its humble beginning, the brains behind Norse have always tried to merge the fashion world with underground art scenes. However, where once they used to struggle to have their proposals accepted, they are now swarmed with requests and half the battle now is deciding on the small number of projects they give the nod to.
With this long list of potential collaborators, a successful boutique and an emerging design brand, it seems the unstoppable pair of Anton Juul and Mikkel Gronnebaek have many because they know that the stock will flourishing years ahead of them. They sell or they themselves. However, the Norse pair choose these brand carefully are flying the flag for Danish fashion and have to understand the history and and the flag is flying high. evolution of the garments before such a decision is made. A rarity in many boutique owners but a characteristic that will only continue to stand them in good stead.
In Copenhagen, the busy duo of Anton Juul and Mikkel Gronnebaek run Norse Store and Norse Projects simultaneously. Backtrack to 2004 and aforementioned list skateboarding and graffiti as their greatest passions. In trying to bring these youth cultures to a more prominent position in the city, they opened the boutique Norse stores. Based firmly on rugged yet practical outerwear and streetwear, the store has managed to develop and maintain a After several years of running the smorgasbord of highly respected successful boutique, the pair started to brands. become agitated as they thought their It is fair to say that the pair have a keen own design brand was not getting the recognition they wanted or arguably interest and deep passion for the deserved. Fast forward to 2008 and history of Scandinavian culture and Norse Projects forms. A creative outlet fashion. For example, did you know where Anton and Mikkel use the that in early twentieth century Norsuccess of their boutique to drive their way, fisherman used to wear similarly own brand forward. The garments they structured knit produce draw great similarityies to wear, but used different coloured stripes to represent their home town? Neither did we until Anton and Mikkel told us. It is this attention to detail that has meant that Norse Stores has only grown from strength to strength. Many storeowners sell products simply
Norse Projects
Marc Lilius & Simon Claridge It is always exciting to see two creatives, from different disciplines, collaborate and combine their skills. Recently, Finnish photographer Marc Lilius and British artist Simon Claridge did just that, to produce a project named abstract.
The process begins with Claridge, as he uses a variety of colours to create a tiny two inch square oil painting. When the artist is satisfied with his work, Lilius steps in. While the paint is till wet, a medium format camera with a fine grain film and macro lens (attached to a set of extension tubes) is placed just millimeters in front of the paint. Light and other settings are adjusted until the pair are happy. The pair achieves complete agreement and the film is sent to be developed. A mistake at this stage would mean the returning photos would be completely useless.
All the film is drum scanned (an incredibly detailed form) so that any minor adjustments, including the removal of dust particles can be done digitally.
All images credited to Marc Lilius and Simon Claridge. 49
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Behind The Other Lens A photoshoot is always a hive of activity. But for all the magic moments that are captured, many are lost and never documented. Modisch went behind the scenes to document the things that are normally missed‌
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Markus Kison
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Berlin based digital artist Markus Kison is a specialist in image manipulation and uses this skill to analyse social contexts. His work is extremely more complex to be described as just an art form and his degree in physics (obtained from Ulm University in 2001) definitely plays a huge part in the development process. In Versus, his most recent exhibition, Kison interpets the DNA of volunteers into a written format. He then takes two sets of this data (from two separate volunteers) and overlays them on a projector.
Active from 2007, the German creative has It is this conceptual outcome; fusing intricate scientific terms with modernist art which makes Kison stand out from other artists today.
All images credited to: Š MarkusKison.de
12:31
Possibly one of the most controversial art projects Modisch has come across, 12:31 has an extremely interesting back story. In 1993, Joseph Paul Jernigan was given the lethal injection (timed at 12:31am) after committing murder twelve years prior. After his death, Jernigan’s corpse was sectioned and photographed for the Visible Human Project University of Colorado’s Health Sciences Centre.
The project aimed to develop a detailed selection of photographs formed from the human cross-section. Encasing the body in a frozen water and gelatine mixture, the specimen was then cut at one millimetre intervals on the axial plane. 1871 pieces were yielded.
After creating a flowing animation of all the cross-sectional pieces (from head to toe) on a full screen computer, it was photographed using long exposure in a dark environment. Variations in the movement of the computer caused different shapes of the final image of the cadaver. An amazing art form and one that can be thoroughly appreciated for the originality of the concept. There has however, been extensive controversy surrounding the project, including a notable statement from the University of Vienna. Professionals here voiced concerned over ethical practice and stated that the medical profession should have no ties or involvement with execution. The debate continues...
Jim Chapman
After just short of 18 months of activity, male grooming ‘vlogger’ Jim Chapman has quickly become one of the most popular online. All at the tender age of 23. He talks to Modisch about how it all started, his plans for the future and his pioneering way to approach the subject.
So Jim, you’re 23 now, at what age did you start getting interested in grooming?
this period is a very difficult time for males, not just with skincare, but with general health.
Well I don’t think it really happened at an ‘age’ as such. My sisters are both make-up artists and are really into skin care. I guess I just sort of picked it up from them. My girlfriend is also a make-up artist and is constantly putting things on my face and telling me what’s good/bad for your skin and how to put things on. I’m quite lucky in that (I like to think) that I have quite good fashion sense for my build/age/ demographic so my hair and clothes aren’t really so much a conscious ‘grooming/fashion’ decision... more just what I like.
I didn’t really have any money to be that into it to be honest. My girlfriend would always give me some bits and I’m a bit of a hygiene freak so I would cleanse my face morning and night.All I really had was a cleaner, moisturiser (but only because I get dry skin sometimes) and an exfoliator. All of which I think were donated to me by my girlfriend.
Like most guys during uni I thought it was pretty cool looking grubby, so despite being completely unable to grow decent facial hair I would just not shave for ages until I Was skincare something that you still had a horrible thin moustache... and followed quite stringently through the less said about my hair the better. your time at university. It seems that But we all make mistakes. In fact I’ll 75
probably look at some of my clothes or my hair in a few years and think ‘what an idiot’. I know exactly what you mean. How did you go about setting up the video channel? I’m sure it requires quite a lot of confidence to put yourself out there to a vast public audience?
My sisters have one of the biggest channels out there, and my girlfriend isn’t far behind. Even mum is having a go! I have always been a fairly shy person actually, but I get so much positive feedback that it has given me so much confidence. I can now sit in front of the camera and go for it! in my old vids you can tell how nervous I was. To start with I was doing vids on health and fitness because I am really into it, but I felt a lot like I was preaching at people
and didn’t really like it. Then I started to doing just random vlogs on observations/funny stories etc. It wasn’t until I got back from travelling in January that I started doing these grooming vids. I did one as a parody of the ‘haul videos’ where the big gurus talk about what they have bought recently. People really seemed to like it so I did a review of a cream. From there it has grown so quickly. In just under 3 months I have become the biggest male grooming guru in the UK and my viewers/subscribers are going up faster than I would have thought possible. I think it’s because I’m a hetro-sexual and as such talk about the products in a guys way... short and sweet. Also, for some reason people seem to have really warmed to my personality and sense of humour (which I thought would never translate over the internet).
of my vids, I think I’ve had about two comments like that. Pretty much all of my viewers think it’s great to have a guys opinion. I think because it is pretty apparent that I’m straight etc people just respect that I’m sharing my knowledge. I get loads of guys saying how much i’ve helped.
I know exactly what you mean - I used to get a lot of grief for doing fashion - suppose if you’re passionate, idiotic comments like that dont matter. I know though that there are some fellas on youtube who are homosexual who get a lot of grief about it.
something I backed and I would have to be able to put some personality across. The thing is, because what I am doing is so public, I could potentially be offered anything by whoever happens to see me. Pretty admirable answer - not many would pass up the offer of easy money! Outside of male grooming what are Jim Chapman’s interests?
I love working out... I’m pretty much the healthiest person alive (hence health psychology). I don’t eat meat (only fish) I don’t smoke, and I’m Completely pathetic if you ask me. T-total. I have a really healthy diet. I try As your channel grows in popularity, to go to the gym about 4 or 5 times a what are the upcoming plans for the week. But it’s hard to find time when Jim Chapman brand? you work full-time and then have to come home eat, film, edit, upload, make No idea! I hope it does lead somewhere. tomorrows lunch, make time for Tan And how do videos come about? Do I don’t think any any means that I’ll etc. you purchase the products yourself be living off it. I will still go and do or do companies send them? my masters and (hopefully) become I love music... but mostly stuff that a health psychologist. But as long as everyone else in the world hates. To start with I was buying some/using people like me I’ll keep doing vids. My brother calls it ‘slit your wrists Tan’s (my girlfriend) products that It’s weird because it’s very fragile in music’, like radiohead, bloc party, The I would steal. But as the channel my a way... youtube could crash or there National, Bon Iver etc.I am trying to channel get’s bigger I can look at could be a replacement (like myspace learn the piano. products that I think would be good to vs facebook). Someone funnier, better review etc and request them or chat looking and more charismatic could One last question and this is a quick to brands about what would be good. steal my place. For know I have the one - name your top 5 grooming Some brands contact you out of the niche in the market... I think I am the products. blue. I will only review things that I like only straight fella doing this which for or I think others would like/benefit the time being puts me on the top of Ooohh... tough one. Anything? from (e.g. I don’t have oily skin, but the pile for any future possibilities. others do). It is a bit tricky sometimes I love the American crew shaving oil! when companies send you things that It’s weird not knowing where it’s going Changed my world... I don’t get irritated you don’t really like... I don’t want to to go. But I keep going in the hope that skin now. I have so many that it’s hard alienate myself from them by not something bigger will come of it... I just to chose. I really like pomade or reviewing something, but at the same don’t know what until it appears. forming cream for my hair (or a time if I did review something mixture) because I touch my hair all “In just under three dishonestly I would lose all credibility. the time and it feels nice... but as far as brands go I like loads. VO5 for high months I have Fair play to you - its very easy to sell street prices but loads for professional become the out. quality. I love my menscience face brush... gently exfoliates and cleans biggest male I think you can tell when some of the pores. Oh, last but not least, I love the grooming guru in the Origins Ginzing eye cream and I also other gurus have sold out and are clearly selling something... it looks like a little spot concealer I have by U.K” cheap and ruins the whole idea of Murad haven’t done a vid yet.. but will having an opinion Great way to look at it - it must be do really exciting to know you are There still seems to be a lot of stigma somewhat of a pioneer but if the attached to the subject of male opportunity did arise where you grooming. Any opinions on this? could make a considerable money, would you be tempted to just go for Yeah, but you know what? I was fully it? expected to be called ‘gay’ the whole time and was prepared with witty It depends. If I didn’t see it as ‘selling comebacks to stamp it out. But in all out’ then definitely! It would have to be 76
Anthony Logistics Face Clean Kit For over ten years, Anthony Logistics has been at the forefront of the men’s grooming industry. Offering products to suit mainly hair and skin care, the American company has built a sterling reputation over the short time they have been trading. Building on their already stellar knowledge of what the contemporary man wants and needs, the brand has started to release kits which are abound with convenience.
Modisch reviewed the ‘Face Clean’ kit, which consists of: a Glycolic Facial Cleanser, a Facial Scrub, Deep Pore Cleansing Clay and an All Purpose Facial Moisturiser. All four combined are all that is needed to treat your face to some serious conditioning. The brains at Anthony Logistics have also provided a clear plastic carry case and made sure that all products do not exceed airport restrictions in regards to volume. This means it is a brilliant accompaniment for a short business or holiday break and perfect for the man on the go.
Contains: aloe vera (for soothing), glycolic acid (to ease away lines) and vitamins A, C and E (to nourish). At first touch, this cleanser seems to be quite thin but once on the face it is clear that a little goes a long way. A clear scent of citrus is present, due to it containing mandarin orange peel oil and this makes the cleanser seem a lot more refreshing than some of its rivals. However, the scent is not overpowering and it seems to fade quite quickly after use.
Glycolic Facial Cleanser
Contains: aloe vera and algae (for sooth- Contains: apricot kernel oil (to soften), ing), vitamin C (to nourish) and chamo- calendula (to tone) and vitamins A, C and E (to nourish). mile (to smooth and refresh). A perfect compliment to the cleanser, the facial scrub should be used less frequently. An exfoliator is more effective when applied in circular movements and is primarily used to provide a deeper clean the cleanser. It also helps remove in growing hairs, which is great news for the regular shaver. The aloe vera provides a welcome soothing relief.
Facial Scrub
Similar to a facemask, the Cleansing Clay works best when applied to a dry face. The word deep should be underlined on the container, as the clay really does go to work on the layers of your skin. After 5-10 minutes, the clay should be rinsed off with warm water, along with all the impurities that have built up over the week. Definitely our favourite product in the kit.
Deep Pore Cleansing Clay
Contains: sugarcane, sugar maple and lemon extracts (natural AHAs), wheat proteins (to smooth and tighten), panthenol (to retain moisture) and vitamins A, C and E (to nourish). Fragrance free, this moisturiser can be applied in small amounts whenever needed. Less dense than most of its competitors, this Anthony Logistics product compliments its cleaning partners by providing a light finishing touch to an impressive and enjoyable process. By the time this is rubbed in, a happy face was present.
All Purpose Face Moisturiser
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Perfect Preening Products Modisch have chosen four vital products that every man will need for his grooming routine. (They do what they say on the tin / tube / bottle etc).
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Cut-Throat Shaving
There are a few things in life that a man must learn from his father (well, there were certain things that I remember learning from mine). The infamous discussion regarding certain birds and certain bees, how to finely polish a shoe and finally, potentially most importantly, how to shave properly.
but taking care of my skin was not top priority. I seemed destined to have a constant negative outlook on the artform. This was however, before I had experienced the cutthroat shave.
Living in the north-east of England doesn’t allow for huge variety of cultural sites. The barbers I visited was Until recently, I had always seen one of only two in the city (traditional shaving as somewhat of a chore. The grooming barbers) and could uncomfortable ritual that rounds off potentially be referred to as a little preparing oneself for the day. I had first piece of masculine heaven. I was purchased an electric razor around the greeted by a well-dressed, time of my fifteenth birthday, not down well-groomed gentleman, a walking to any particular spurt of hair growth, advertisement for the establishment, more the fact of trying to keep up with who took my coat and offered me a list my peers. Primarily, I quite enjoyed of drinks to choose from. shaving, seeing it as a sign of finally making the transition from boy to man, After a couple of minutes sat on a but this novelty soon wore off. comfortable couch, I was led to a barber’s chair. Slowly reclining my face Over the following years, the amount of met a fresh warm towel. The fogginess effort I put into a shave steadily from last night’s drinks lifted quickly diminished. I moisturised frequently and I fell into complete relaxation. 91
Application of an exfoliator was thorough and apparently quite necessary. This allowed my face to become a smooth and more importantly, clean surface. The barber then proceeded to work his magic with the blade, with a hot towel interval every two minutes (around six were administered). The half an hour treatment was finished with another exfoliation, shortly followed by a cold towel (to close pores). Fresh faced and slightly more rejuvenated, I left the barbers with an incredibly smooth face and a completely overhauled opinion on shaving. And it only cost me £10!
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