Watchisthis?! Magazine December 2017 by Jonathan Kopp

DECEMBER 2017

sk someone what time it is, and chances are good they will pull out their phone to find out. Now, more than ever, it’s clear that wearing a watch is much about style than about function.

Watchisthis?! is about this … Personal expression through our passion for watches. And today we can make it thanks to the hundreds of new watch brands and new models that are launched every time.

In watchmaking, volume and value form two opposing pyramids. The majority of the volume is situated below 2000$ while the most of the value is situated above the 5000$. At Watchisthis?! we understood that long time ago and so that’s why we launched our first magazine 2 years ago. This one is about our passion for watchmaking. We wanted to give the chance to watch enthusiasts to discover new brands or new affordable models. For this issue we’ve spoken with many owners, founders and CEO’s about their watch brands and what moves them. We know it, “Time is Money”but the time has to remain accessible. We wanted only one thing when creating this magazine: Spread our passion! Now that you know more about what Watchisthis?! is all about, you can enjoy our last issue.

Jonathan Kopp editor-in-chief

22 07INTRODUCING THE TATE WADE BOKEH WATCH 10 INTERVIEW WITH THIERRY CLOTTU : DONE WATCHES 12 DONE WATCHES:MECHANICA WATCH 14 INTERVIEW SEBASTIEN MULLER BRELLUM SWISS WATCHMAKING

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18 BRELLUM PANDIAL COLLECTION 22 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH MEMOMEM 24 INTERVIEW RICK MAREI DOXA WATCHES 26 DOXA SUB 300 50YEARS OF EXCELLENCE 28 DWISS THE AWARDS WINNING MICROBRAND 30 INTRODUCING THE ISOTOPE RIDER JUMPING-HOUR 34 BALTICUS STAR DUST: STAR STRUCK

38 THE HIGHLY CUSTOMIZABLE MIANG BESPOKE WATCH 40 INTERVIEW JENS OLE MIANG – MIANG COPENHAGEN 44 INTERVIEW OCTAVIO GARCIA – GORILLA WATCH 48 GORILLA WATCH FASTBACK 50 INTERVIEW MIKE FRANCE CHRISTOPHER WARD 51 CHRISTOPHER WARD C1 GRAND MALVERN JUMPING HOUR

52 BIATEC MAJESTIC SLOVAKIAN STYLE WITH AN EYE FOR DETAILS 54 CJR COMMANDER SERIES 56 WOULD YOU RENT YOUR WATCH? 58 ARTCORNER: THE ALLIANCE OF ABSURDITY AND HUMOR 60 SCHMUTZ WATCHES, ART IS FOR EVERYONE 62 GUCCI G-TIMELESS : COLORS, BEES AND STARS

64 THE LOOK 66 LADIES SPORTS WATCHES 70 A DECADE LATER | SINN U1: MY ULTIMATE VACATION WATCH 72 DIVE INTO A VINTAGE WORLD 74 INTERVIEW ROBERT-JAN BROER – VINTAGE OMEGA 78 CHRONOSWISS RÉGULATEUR AN AFFORDABLE ALTERNATIVE

80 PANASONIC T91 THE STRANGEST RADIO WATCH EVER 82 DALE VITO COLUMN 84 CREDITS

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Tate Wade Bokeh watch

Introducing the

n kickstarter we find to often classical and simple watches with nothing exciting and sometimes you fall in front of something really appealing.

Wade Park and Stephan Roesli are the two entrepreneurs behind the Tate Wade brand. They came up with the concept of a watch back in 2015 and on May 2nd 2017 they finaly launched their Kickstarter campaign â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Which was a great success. 6

Bokeh, also known as “Boke” is one of the most popular subjects in photography. The reason why it is so popular is because Bokeh makes photographs visually appealing, forcing us to focus our attention on a particular area of the image. The word comes from Japanese language, which literally translates as “blur”. A good Bokeh pleases our eyes and our perception of the image… And you know what? This watch will really please your eyes and your perception of time. In fact, there are many similarities between a good Bokeh in photography, and a good watch in watchmaking ... Wait, you're going to tell me that I'm going in the wrong direction with this analogy. A good Bokeh depends on the type of lens you are using when a good watch depends on the design and movement you’re using. If you have a good lens, the bokeh should be soft and fuzzy, looking pleasing to the eye; and if you strive to create a good design, thinking of all details, then you'll have a good looking timepiece. In both case, Bokeh and Watch design, the goal is to focus the attention of the crowd on one particular thing. Now let’s have a closer look to this first piece created by the Bienne based watch brand. To create the design, they had to find their own unique brand concept which will live in their watches. After many exchanges of ideas, they took the ‘Moments of life’ idea to build their brand since they believe that their watches can have bigger meaning to their consumers than being just nice watches to wear. To translate this idea into more tangible design code, they decided to choose camera as a medium because they saw a strong link between photography which captures slice of life and their idea about moments. And indeed, the link is really strong as even with a smartphone we all want to capture the best moments of our lives. 7

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Honestly it’s not a surprise when you look at this piece called BOKEH.This timepiece is named after the visual effect in the field of photography which evokes a mystic feeling.

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The whole design is very elegant. The Tate Wade team with Studio Divine (Design Studio based in Switzerland) designed a completely unique case and crown to house the mechanical heart and a beautiful immersive multi-layer dial. The 42mm x 9.1mm case is made of stainless steel and you also have a version with black PVD coating. The interesting thing about this case is that it’s not a normal round case. Indeed, you have a little wing on the crown side which is there to protect the Tate Wade crown. This one gives to the case a size of 43.5 mm if you count it. The caseback which is held by 4 screws offers a view of the movement through a little aperture. On this one we will also find the engraved quote; “Carpe Momentum” which means “seize the moment”. 8

The multi-layered dial has a lot of details and finishing which is quite interesting. The numbers are printed but you have 12 to 3 and then 25 to 55, so from one side the numbers of the hours and on the other side the numbers of the minutes… those numbers have different colors depending on the version; so you have for 12 to 3, white, gold and green. Note that for the green one you just have the color on the 12 and on the circle line that covers the 3 first hours… Clever I must say. The hands resume these different colors, that’s why on the variation 1 we find the tip of the seconds hand painted green. Back to the dial you have polished, sand-blasted and circular stained finishing on the base while we will find sunray satined finishing on the inner ring.

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The logo TW stands at 10 o’clock and we even have a date window placed in front of the crown at 4 o’clock. The whole is protected by a 1.85mm elevated sapphire glass with anti-reflection coating. At the heart of the piece there is the well known ETA2824 movement which is also used by brands like Tudor, Hamilton, Sinn and many other brands. Why do watch companies love the ETA-2824? Simple: it’s accurate, durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive, while maintaining the core functionality needed by the majority of three-handed watches.

Finally, the watch will be wrap around your wrist thanks to a high quality genuine leather which is easy to change thanks to the quick-release button. Well, sometimes when looking at a watch one likes it or not, ignoring the time spent to develop it. Then I can tell you, if there was 2 years between the owner’s first ideas of creation and the official launch of this collection, it was really worth it. Let’s finish with this: It’s BOKEH, it’s OK!!!

The ETA caliber 2824 with 25 jewels, 28.800 bph and 38 hours of power reserve is one of the most recognized movements in the watch industry. 9

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ne of the more successful new brands is DONE watches, which took the world by storm with their high quality yet modestly priced MECHANICA.

A manual wind watch which brings you back to the essence of watchmaking. Watchisthis?! sat down with Thierry Clottu, CEO of DONE Watches, to talk about his brand.

i n t e r v i e w

Done W a t c h e s

Thierry Clottu

What was your vision when you created DONE watches? Working in watch development for more than 12 years, I always had in mind to realize one day my own watch. At the very beginning, my idea was rather to make a watch for my close friends and me. It was only after seeing that many people wanted one that I decided to go further in the process of production and perpetuation. In 2015 I began to work more seriously on the project, and it's by presenting my project to friends (also in the watchmaking industry) that everyone said: "yes it's a very great watch but it will cost too much for me." It was then that I realized that I wanted to propose a very affordable watch but by keeping the high-end quality criteria of the great watch brands (for which I work daily by the way). There are so many watch brands, what sets DONE watches apart from the rest? On every DONE model I will always try to offer a special "high end" feeling for a very good price. Not only buy a movement and assemble it in a "classical" case and sell it for more than CHF 1000. We try to offer a high end feeling with a speciality look at a very good price. 10

For example, in the first Mechanica model, I made a special hand-made decoration "Cote de GenĂ¨ve en ĂŠventail" on the movement. It's a decoration than just DONE does today on this movement and was specially developed together with our supplier. DONE watches are powered by Unitas movements. What made you decide to go for this movement? I liked the surfaces of the large bridges which permitted me to make a great decoration visible through the case back opening. And for my first model, I wanted to return to the beginning of watchmaking history, by proposing a manual winding movement. By the way, this movement is also very well known by every watchmaker in the world, and the reliability of this Swiss movement is just incredible. So for the after sales service, it's a very good point. - In your opinion, what is the most important aspect of DONE Watches? Offer the best quality possible by developing watches especially developed with added value on the movements or particular external parts of the watch while always remaining at an affordable price point.

Can you tell us something about DONE watches that is not generally known? My very first clients were CEO, designers or influential people from really great watch brands. After seeing my watches they just called for me to develop more. I thank them today for their support and trust in this adventure.

What are the plans for the future of DONE Watches? Actually, I am developing a "hand-made" skeleton model on the Mechanica collection (with the same ETA 6497 movement). The first results are just awesome, and I will push to present this new model in the next three months. After that, I have a lot of ideas in mind, but an automatic model will come for sure and why not a lady option too. But actually, I just would like to do the things step by step, with passion, great design, and quality to be in the position to say "well done"!

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Be in a state of mind that everything is possible when we really want it. The goal for every development is to say "It's DONE"! I did it, and I did it well!

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The Mechanical Wa t c h Kickstarter has become quite the nursery for new watches, yet some of them should not be on there. Most of the watches that fall into that category simply lack any form of quality and originality, but a few should not be on Kickstarter because they are simply too good for crowd funding. One that falls into this last category is Done watches!

Created in Neuchatel, Switzerland, Done is simply breathtaking! Yes, there is no other way to describe the brand. From the lushly curved case to the stunning two tone-dial, and not to mention that movement.....The Done Mechanica is created by micro-technology engineer Thierry Clottu, a 10-year veteran of the Swiss watch industry, and that experience for sure shows in his work.

But the case is not the only thing that is stunning about the Done Mechanica. The dial features different levels, and by shifting the movement slightly, it also looks even more unique. Great is that this also brings the crown of the watch just next to the lug, which is a far more comfortable position when wearing the watch. The dial comes in a variety of color combinations, but we are especially a fan of the one that shows a high contrast between the black and the silver. Next to these fully monochrome designs, Done

also offers the Mechanica with a PVD gold coating, for those who want a more upscale look. Where most brands are happy to install a bare Unitas movement, Done takes it a step further. Or actually two. Not only is the rachet wheel engraved with their logo, but they also have the most beautiful Geneva stripping on the large bridges of the movement, that seems to originate from the balance wheel. An absolute stunning finishing touch. With all this quality and originality it's surprising that the brand has not found an investor, and went to crowd funding. But maybe they didn't want to have an investor, knew that their product would rock anyway and prefer to deal with their customers directly. Whatever the reason, its good for us, because now the Done watches are available for a very competitive price.

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The Done Mechanica is a watch to have a love affair with. It is equipped with an Unitas/ETA-caliber 6497-1, the same movement that powered some of the 1990's and early 2000's Panerai's. A robust and reliable hand wound movement that Done (which stands by the way for "DOne in NEuchatel") fitted in a 43.8 mm case. This is quite a substantial size, but we are talking here about quite a substantial movement with a diameter of 36.6 mm. We have seen this movement squeezed into a 42 mm case, but that would leave insufficient room to craft a case as stunning as on the Mechanica.

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INTERVIEW

Sebastien Muller Brellum Swiss Watchmaking

At the end of 2016 you created Brellum Swiss Watchmaking: What made you want to enter in an already overcrowded watch market? The desire to offer customers a new experience in luxury watchmaking. Brellum Swiss Watchmaking offers high quality watch products produced in limited quantities. Only 299 watches are marketed every year and distributed worldwide. The sale is made directly from the watchmaker to the end customer, which allows to propose affordable prices for products of this level of range. My watches are shipped all over the world to my collectors and enthusiasts of fine watchmaking. Many are those who order a second or even a third piece after receiving their 14

first order, which represents for me the most beautiful of rewards. Could you explain us the genesis of your brand - From your first idea to the release of your first model, The Duobox? It was a period full of doubts, the project has matured for years. We have defined the price positioning and the level of quality to be achieved. We then worked for months, with my wife Christiane, on the design of the case, dials, hands, decoration of movements.

We made prototypes that we modified dozens of times until the product was perfect. And it was without counting the realization of the website, the development of the packaging, and all the administration dedicated to the management of orders and exports, all this was a great challenge. The welcome given to Brellum by social networks and the international press as well as by my clients fully encourages me to continue in this direction. The story of your brand coincides with your family history. How important is this one in the process of creating your timepieces? I have been in watchmaking since my earliest childhood. My great-grandfather, born in 1885, was the first watchmaker in the family to create his own workshop in Bonfol, the village where I grew up. I assembled my first watches at the age of 10, during my summer holidays in my father's watchmaking manufacture. This passion has never left me. After my apprenticeship as a watchmaker at the vocational school in Porrentruy, I acquired over 25 years of knowledges and expertise that I now put in Brellum.

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I assembled my first watches at the age of 10, during my summer holidays in my fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watchmaking manufacture. This passion has never left me.

Do you have an anecdote about the relation between your family and the design phase? We designed the Duobox model with my wife Christiane, a microtechnic designer, who has worked with me throughout my career. After the first sketches and the first modelings, we went to the realistic renderings in 3D on our drawing program. Before launching the prototypes, we were on vaccation one week in the heart of the Swiss mountains, in Gstaad, to make the last corrections. We spend our days skiing and our evenings working on the last details. Not a single model is marketed without her approval and the one of my two daughters. From your perception, what makes the Duobox watch so special? There are several factors. The design is timeless and singular with its two box type sapphire crystal which protect the dial and the hands for one and allows to observe the magnificent Valjoux movement, decorated and certified by the COSC, for the other. Then the quantities limited to 299 watches per year for the whole world assure the customers that they carry a very exclusive product. Finally, the human factor, the contact between the customer and the creator-watchmaker is very important.

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You chose a direct distribution model. Could you explain us why? And what is the advantage of this distribution method for a young independent brand like yours? I think it is a good idea to use a new form of distribution in order to give the customer the best price. This allows me to sell my products without going through importers and distributors who take significant margins. The customer actually pays for his timepiece and not for a network or marketing expenses; everything is in the product. At the end of the 19th century the Jurassian watchmakers took the train to Porrentruy and went in the direction of Geneva or ZĂźrich in order to meet their customers and sell of their production. This mode of marketing has completely disappeared today in favor of the one that was imposed by the major brands. Internet and social networks allow me to reconstitute this link with the end customer, and to pursue this method of marketing that our watchmaking ancestors had developed. Quality is at the heart of your watches. What steps do you go through to develop and produce them? I only deal with partners who work for the biggest watch groups and which use the same manufacturing methods for the Brellum components. All parts are tested, sometimes in external laboratories, sometimes at my suppliersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; factories or directly in the assembly workshop. My movements are all officially certified chronometer by the COSC and each watch undergoes power reserve tests, waterproofing, as well as the final test of 120 hours.

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You work a lot on details. From the rotor to the 3D indexes everything is thought to catch the eyes of all watch enthusiasts. How your brain works when you imagine and design them? I really don't know. I developed, with the help of designers, hundreds of models during my career for world-renowned Swiss watchmaking groups, and I think that I intuitively selected during all these years what I really liked and put aside what did not touch me. The style of your watches is quite vintage; Is this the kind of watches that have your preference? With the Duobox model, we wanted to develop a timeless collection, made to last in time, just like the Brellum brand. The collection will be enriched in the coming months and firstly in October of a more sporting collection Duobox Pandial. Perhaps in the next months or years we will be inspired by another period of the history of watchmaking for the next models, or a very contemporary design, everything is open. For you, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the most important thing to find in a watch? The emotion and passion of the creator as well as the quality of the components that make up the product. We must give the customer the daily pleasure of wearing his Brellum timepiece. 17

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Brellum

Pandial Collection

By Jovan Krstevski

rellum Swiss Watchmaking has been around for only one year, but they just keep getting better and better. I love Brellum for giving us horology fans more choices that we usually see on the high-end watches. So without further ado, here’s the Duobox Pandial Collection.

I’d like to start with the Duobox Pandial Marina which comes with different strap options. It’s powered by the same legendary Valjoux-based BRELLUM BR–750–1 Automatic Movement Chronometer officially certified by the COSC. The domed Marina Blue dial with appliques and luminescent material looks cool especially on a bright sunny day. The Marina’s legibility is superb thanks to its box type sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment which also extends to the caseback. As for the strap options, the choice are between a handmade fabric Alinghi Marina strap or a stainless steel Milanese bracelet with deploying buckle. Both straps also come with bonus Blue Rubber camo Nato strap.

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Next in the collection is the Duobox Pandial White which obviously showcases a domed silver white dial with nice appliques featuring luminescent materials. The coolest character of the Pandial White is its impressive dial in black and white. It’s like suspended in a retro world which is great by the way. Legibility is very practical which is to be expected when a silver dial is used. Brellum achieved some equilibrium in the dial by effectively distributing white and dark highlights across the dial, hence we see dark guilloche sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock while the rest is white with black markers. You can get the Pandial White with cool strap options: black barenia leather strap, mesh bracelet, brown perfored calf leather strap, and brown zula calf leather strap plus each piece comes with an extra black nato rubber strap. The Pandial Black is as stealthy as it sounds. If you’d rather blend in perfectly than stand out in the crowd, this is the best choice. The domed black dial with nice appliques and luminescent material looks subtle thanks in part to the box type sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. It comes on genuine black Barenia calf leather strap, perfored black calf leather strap, brown Zora calf leather strap, and stainless steel Milanese bracelet with deploying buckle. All leather straps are handmade and come with bonus black rubber Nato strap. Finally, there is the Pandial Grey Meteor with its unique space feel. This is nicely achieved with a domed Meteor Grey dial with matching appliques featuring luminescent materials. A word of advice, if you like traditional watches, this may not be a good color choice since its gradients and hues are really playful but rest assured it’s the same Brellum Duobox with an impressive Caliber BRELLUM BR–750–1 Automatic chronometer movement. This looks even fancier when paired with stainless steel Milanese bracelet with deploying buckle although you can always have it with other strap options like handmade perfored black calf leather strap or handmade brown Zora calf leather strap. All models also come with a rubber Nato camo strap. The price for the models on the mesh bracelet is CHF 2360 excluding taxes, and CHF 2305 on a leather strap. My personal pick in the collection is the white pandial with mesh bracelet. It just looks classic and very easy on the eyes for the daily grind. 19

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Time to follow us Join us in our social media accounts as we feature, discuss and report to you the latest and on the dot updates on your favorite wristwatch. https://www.facebook.com/watchisthismagazine https://instagram.com/watchisthis/

GENTLEMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHOICE TPR watch winders combine stylish design with an advanced winder functionality

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nd perso

ith some watches, you wonder how they look when you actually hold them in your hands. This is most certainly the case with Memomem, as they offer an incredible array of options to custom makes your watch.

Memomem! with

o cl

na l

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UP se a

We had one made as well, to see how the result would be. In the flesh is still quite different from a render on a computer screen. We were not disappointed!

First and foremost the build quality is exceptionally high. The watch could easily pass for double its price. Everything is a very tight fit, well decorated, and most importantly: thought through! The watch is full of clever details, many that you can give your own touch, but our favorite is the clasp. This one is purpose build for the watch and handles the rubber strap (which again is made especially for this watch) perfectly while complementing the overall look of the watch.

The movement can be viewed from the back and the front. The skeletonized grid that serves as the watch its dial gives a lot of depth. It makes the movement play a game of hide and seek and that works captivating. The back doesn't seem to show a rotor, but it does! Covered with the Memomem-logo, the back of the watch shows a full rotor. The movement is Swiss made, precise and good looking. A Pleasant surprise is also the tritium tubes in the hands that make the time very easy to read all night long. The number of options that Memomem offers to customize their watches can be daunting, but the result was better than expected. The overall quality and the level of finishing is very high, and it makes the watch feel like it cost more than the $499,- Memomem charges. A true value for money watch, as well as a personal statement!

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We designed the watch itself around a theme, as it made it easier to choose from them a mind-boggling array of options that Memomem offers. We picked Lotus and made the watch in the famous John Player Special colors: gold and black. What makes the watch extra special is that you can have text printed on the dial. We went for a quote of Colin Chapman, the founder of Lotus, to finish off the watch. This also means that your watch will be absolutely unique, even though will all the different options it will be highly unlikely that you meet somebody with exactly the same Memomem.

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Rick Marei DOXA WATCHES

Interview

atchisthis?! sat down with Rick Marei, CEO of Doxa watches, to ask him a few questions about the Doxa Sub and its 50th anniversary! The Doxa Sub is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Quite a milestone for a watch that became legendary. How are you going to celebrate this and where do you want to take the Sub after this? There will be a 50th-anniversary celebration event in 5 major US and 5 European Cities and Hong Kong, you are invited to join! The rich history of the DOXA SUB dictates the future releases, so stay tuned Clive Cussler choose the Doxa Sub as the watch of choice of his literary hero Dirk Pitt. What kind of effect did this have on Doxa, as you didn't buy this honor, as is a custom nowadays? I think being Clive Cusslerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s choice alone would not have had such an impact because the DOXA SUB is the ONLY dive watch that has become a legend in real world, being the choice of US divers, its founder Jacques-Yves Cousteau and his team and also in the fiction of world of Clive Cussler and NUMA

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Doxa is a brand with a very rich history, that also had a lot of interesting models besides the Sub. Currently, the collection is fully focused on the Sub. Why is that and is this going to change shortly? The other collections are very popular in Asia and Europe; this will continue to cover the European markets in the next few years Can you tell us something about Doxa that not many people are aware of? Hmm. Did you know that the JENNYs who acquired DOXA in the 90s were the patent holder of the world’s first integrated non-decompression bezel dive watch and also for the world’s first 1000 meter water resistant dive watch? The DOXA SUB bezel was the simplified version of the JENNYs which has made it much popular than the original JENNY.

What is your personal favorite Doxa and why? Jacques-Yves Cousteau’s personal SUB300T Sharkhunter that he gave to Bruno Cappello, that I sometimes wear, it is a great honor for me sometimes to be able to wear this watch but it is also the heaviest burden to carry because the fear to lose or damage. Regarding the new re-edition models, my favorite is the 50th anniversary SUB300. It just takes me back to 60s every time I look at it, an Era that I didn’t live in but wish I could have. It is the greatest feeling a collector can ever have to acquire a New Old Stock DOXA SUB, which is, unfortunately, impossible because none exist, but the 50th is as close it can get

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DOXA

SUB 300

years of excellence

017 is the year of comebacks. Several brands have anniversary models for some of the iconic watches which made history. This is the case of the DOXA SUB 300. This model celebrates the 50 years from the release of the original orange dial dive watch. The 1967 model was a great success becoming fast an iconic model. JeanMichel Cousteau and his Ocean Futures Society team have chosen the DOXA SUB as standard equipment on their undersea expeditions. Fabien Cousteau outed his trust in the DOXA SUB for his Mission 31 endeavour. Also the DOXA SUB was used by US Diverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as standard equipment. The 2017 DOXA SUB 300 follows the original lines and the affordable price of the first model, but with modern technologies from the Swiss watchmaking industry. The 42.5mm stainless steel case has a robust construction with a brushed surface that can withstand easily harsh conditions. The polished crown is almost completely integrated in the case line, being protected in this way from damaging shocks.

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The polished metal bracelet with separate “bead of rice” has integrated wetsuit extension and tapers from 22.00/20.00mm. The buckle is decorated with the image of a fish on a brushed background and has a secure clasp with DOXA logo. The raised bezel has the same design as the first DOXA SUB. The bezel doesn’t cover the front case face as other divers. In this way, the unidirectional bezel is protected from lateral hits. The teeth arrangements in groups of four enhance the grips even when wearing gloves. DOXA has one of the most complete minutes scale present on the market with indexes for each minute and Arabic numerals for each 5 minutes.The bezel displays DOXA’s innovative adaptation of the US Navy’s maximum no decompression limit times, which is engraved in orange on the outer unidirectional bezel. The watch is covered with a vintage-looking double bubble sapphire crystal. This offers a better security and resistance as the vintage plexi-crystal.

The lovely orange dial is simple, without unnecessary elements. The hours’ indexes have a good contrast due to the combination of luminescent and black paint. The hands follow the same idea: black hands with luminescent painted tips. The dial’s joyful look is garnished by the square-tipped seconds’ hand. The dial has a discrete date window at 3 o’clock highlighted by a black border. The DOXA SUB 300 is powered by a COSC certified ETA2824-2 movement. The 40 hours power reserve movement is achieved by a 28,800bph balance. The selfwinding mechanism with ball bearing uses 25 jewels. This movement guarantees a long life and easy maintenance at low price. The DOXA SUB 300 is released in the three traditional versions: the Professional in orange, the Sharkhunter in black and the Searambler in silver. All versions are available in a 300-pieces-limited series, each priced at $2,490.

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DWISS

The awards winning microbrand

WISS was created in 2011 by Rafael Simoes Miranda, a Brazilian born naturalized Italian designer, who has been designing watches for over a decade now, with a portfolio of more than 300 different watches designed for 15 different brands, awarded with important international design awards, like the Red Dot Design Award. DWISS (Design Watch Independent Switzerland) offers premium watches with a world-class design at reasonable prices â&#x20AC;&#x201C; combining Swiss watch engineering, precision and quality. DWISS has been in the market for almost 5 years and has presented in several of the most important watch fairs worldwide such as BaselWorld (2014 and 2015) and Hong Kong watch and clock fair (2014 and 2015). DWISS has won an IDA - International Design Award for producing the very first Niobium (Nb1Zr) watch in the world (a rare and strategic metal). And this year, more awards have been won by the Swiss brands... Indeed, two new awards for the Model DWISS M2, second time for the IDA award and the first time for the ePDA (European Product Design Award). The young Swiss microbrand is using pioneering materials along with creative and complex engineered constructions; DWISS produces innovative, limited edition luxury watches with the highest-grade Swiss mechanical movements and craftsmanship.

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They are the pioneer for the use of Niobium (Nb1Zr) in watch cases. They developed the first ever made Niobium watch case watch for the model CLASSIQUE CBMM, exclusively for the Brazilian mining company CBMM. This year they introduced, in partnership with e-Motion-Niobium project, the new model called DWISS C2. An automatic Swiss made watch with 42 hours power reserve and a case made of Nb1Zr (99% Niobium 1% Zirconium). Limited Edition to the same atomic number as Niobium, only 41 watches will be ever made. DWISS M2 is two-time award winner watch with an innovative time reading system. The hours are represented through a disc that runs under the multi-layered dial and fulfil the hour’s windows with a colourful continuous rotation disc. They used a simple movement (ETA 2824-2) to create a "complicated" timepiece, without using expensive techniques to change the movement itself. This bold eccentric Swiss made watch is made in 316L stainless steel. Composed of 9 parts in a complex construction fixed by the side screws and is water resistant to 10 ATM. The Swiss brand launched some of their timepieces directly on Kickstarter, in order to offer them at the best price possible to their customers. We can be impressed as every time it’s a big success. In March 2017 they launched their new R1 model which is a real stunner. For this one, they used their innovative time display system. The system which was awarded two times in 2016, and one of the awards was granted at the European Parliament in Brussels. They are bringing back this system in one of their two new collections - RS1. The second one has a totally new display system - RC1. The collections are called DWISS RC1, a classic looking model with a centralized hour disc at the 12 o'clock mark, and DWISS RS1, a sporty collection that uses the DWISS signature time reading system. The watch itself is a 43mm diameter case, water resistant to 100M, and equipped with a Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement. There’s a lovely engraved rotor, and display caseback as well. Both the back and crystal are sapphire, as they should be, and the crystal is coated on both sides with anti-reflective coating.

DWISS has put together a stunning set of watches that will help you stand apart from all the rest. Well, all their watches are built for the people who understand and appreciate the art of watchmaking and design and who seek an exclusive and innovative Swiss automatic watch.

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INTRODUCING THE

Isotope Rider Jumping-Hour If you’re not familiar with the brand you have to know that it is run by North London based entrepreneur Jose Mendes Miranda. It was created in November 2015 but the idea came in mind 5 years ago. It’s not the first attempt of Jose because well before Isotope he had already created 2 brands which unfortunately did not have the success that he hoped. The interesting part of the story is that he learned how to create a movement from scratch… and when you know how complicated it is to assemble and disassemble a movement and to create a new one, we can just congratulate him. Today he is proud to present an amazing watch inspired by Streamline Moderne style and which pays tribute to the creator of the jumping hour concept, Mister Josef Pallweber. For the record, back in 1883, the Austrian Engineer Josef Pallweber invented a watch complication popularly referred to as the Pallweber “Jump-Hour” movement. His invention had the simple idea of making easier to read the hour in pocket watches. He replaced the hands with a “digital” display of hours and minutes and every 60-minute cycle, the hour digit would suddenly “jump” to the next hour. In 1885, the Swiss firm known as “The International Watch Company” of Schaffhausen, or “IWC”, patented the revolutionary Josef Pallweber mechanical pocket watch movement, which displayed the hours and minutes with Arabic numeral dials.

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jumping hour watch for less than 2500$… Seriously is it possible? Apparently yes and it comes from Isotope Watch.

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Between 1885-1887, the Pallweber “Jump-Hour” pocket watches were exclusively manufactured by IWC. Since then, several solutions were invented and explored by various watch designers and consequently, different watch brands. The name « Rider » of the first Isotope’s creation agglomerates various concepts but above all expresses the will to time travel, reinterpreting the Streamline Moderne philosophy and adding timeless elements into its contemporary and classic design. Now let’s have a closer look to the piece itself and start with the heart of it. The movement that powers this timepiece is the Swiss Made ETA 2824-2, an automatic calibre well known for its reliability, accuracy and low-maintenance costs. This robust and extremely well designed movement is used by some of the top Swiss brands as well. The 100% Swiss Made jumping hour module was designed and assembled in Biel (Switzerland) and has been specifically adapted to Isotope’s design. The hour positioned at 6 o’clock is very rare in Jumping-Hour watches and so is the central second hand.

As you can see the number positioned at 6 o’clock represents the hour. As an example, at 5.59, when the minute and second hands reach the last second before 6, the 6 “jumps” replacing the 5 in the hour window. This bespoke module, with window hour positioned at 6 o’clock, adopts an ingenious solution and the module uses a systematic amount of power throughout an entire hour, delivering excellent results in accuracy and reliability. The Rotor, visible from the case back window, can be either decorated with the ISOTOPE Logo or with a bespoke design/message as per the customers’ requirements, making each model even more priceless, exclusive and personal. In terms of design we can we can imagine that the inspiration came from racing and modern art but for me the thing that has catched my eyes directly is that this piece looks like, from a way or another, to the Junghans Max Bill Kitchen Clock designed in 1956. Seriously, look closely and you’ll see that in the Rider Watch the Jumping hour replaces the timer of Max Bill Kichen Clock. And even the black part of the dial make me think of the design of this clock.

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The dials show white or black painted indexes and Arabic numerals, depending on the dial colour. You’ll have the choice between 6 different colors (You can see them all on their website). Personally I don’t know which one I prefer but the blue and the vintage pastel green are really cool. On The dial we find the large window positioned at 6 o’clock displays the hour, and the minute and seconds are displayed by two central hands. The 46,8 x 13,7 stainless steel 316L case is fitted with domed AR sapphire crystal front glass and has a water resistance of 100 meters. All variants of this watch will be supplied with a bespoke leather strap, either in black or dark brown Calfskin leather, depending on the ideal color combination with the dial. Nice thing is that they use a quick release allowing you to change when you want without the use of a tool. 32

With this complication, the London based brand (but Swiss Made) shows to all watch enthusiasts that it is possible to make an amazing yet affordable watch. The company is fully dedicated to bring to life Swiss Made horological complications and we heard that in the next five years Isotope will have a full range of high quality timepieces, always with exclusive technical solutions and original, yet classic design. Interesting no?

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Jumping-Hour watches are often... No, my mistake, they are always really expensive; so thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really a good news to find for the first time an affordable complicated piece with such a quality.

The company is fully dedicated to bring to life Swiss Made horological complications and we heard that in the next five years Isotope will have a full range of high quality timepieces, always with exclusive technical solutions and original, yet classic design. Interesting no?

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Balticus Star Dust:

Star Struck

reativity runs strong with most affordable micro brands, and Balticus is no exception. With the Star Dust they have created a sports watch with a strong profile, yet that is not even the main attraction of the watch. Credit for that goes to the extraordinary dial. While I reported earlier on the launch of this watch, we have now one at hand to go deeper into the details that set the Star Dust apart from its peers.

That dial is crafted from a special kind of granite that not only has a deep blue color, but also little specks in it that reflect light. It kind of make you feel as if you are standing in the Enterprise and stare into the depths of space. It is very captivating, and I have noticed that I checked my watch much more often when wearing the Balticus, yet almost never could recite the time it was at the moment after looking at it. Not that this is the watch to blame because it features generous indices, nice sword hands and all of them are also filled in with Luminova. Although the incredible dial is the Star Dust, not a one trick pony. Quite a few people mentioned that the watch looks familiar. This might have something to do with it that its contours are in line with bold watches like the IWC Ingenieur and Audemars Royal Oak. That is a compliment because the Star Dust isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a copy of either one. Instead, it combines a strong case profile with an intricate bezel. Both are generously sized, yet not oversized. This gives the watch a visual impact, but not overkill to the senses.

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A dark blue medallion in the center of the case back, adorned with stars, shows you why this watch is called the Star Dust, even when you cannot see the front.

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The screw down back deserves special mention because here the theme of the dial continues. A dark blue medallion in the center of the case back, adorned with stars, shows you why this watch is called the Star Dust, even when you cannot see the front. Each of these watches come with both a stainless steel bracelet, as well as a leather strap. Both are fitted with a quick release system for the spring bar making swapping between them a breeze. Inside ticks Miyota 8215, an automatic caliber with the date function. Balticus offers two versions of the Star Dust, one showing the date, and one not. Purists will without a doubt favor the one without, while more practical people probably prefer a date window. Either way, you get a reliable and robust movement, quite fitting for a watch at this price point. However, no matter how good the movement is, competitive the price, and well made the case, most people will buy the Star Dust for the dial, and the dial alone, and that might be the best reason of all!

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ith 20 Million design variations this piece is probably the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most customizable watch.

THE HIGHLY CUSTOMIZABLE

MIANG Bespoke watch In 2015, the Denmark based brand launched their very first watch, the customizable Flash Automatic GMT which was a big success. I can only say that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m impressed about the level of quality of this piece.

So right now, here at Watchisthis?! We are thrilled to see this new release.

The particularity of the brand created by Jens Ole Miang is that it gives you the freedom to create a truly personal watch. I mean, you have the choice in everything!

The customization process is easy and playful, and the price is way below standard watches with the same premium components that they use. By letting the customer decide between three different watch case, crown and bezels colors (even bezel screws), 10 different dial colors, 9 different hands colors, 15 strap options and personal engravings on the case back which consists of 30+25 characters (including spaces), the same watch can end with almost 20 million designs. The customer can even buy extra bezels and straps and further alter his watch when he wants.

How is that possible with so many interchangeable parts and design combinations? They should have to come up with an extremely strong design system… And they have succeeded thanks to one of Denmark’s leading industrial designers, Mr. Jan Egeberg. About the watch itself… It will be complicated to explain everything but let’s try to see the main things. For the watch case which measures 42.5 x 12.6 mm, the 7.5 mm crown and the buckle they decided to choose a Grade 5 titanium material. Titanium is a great and luxurious material that’s 3 times stronger than steel but at half the weight. And it’s allergy-friendly too. Unlike other titanium types, Grade 5 can be polished to a mirror-like finish. A feature they implemented on several surfaces. You have also 4 bezel options -Natural, Black PVD and Red Gold PVD Titanium as well as in Solid Carbon Fiber, and then you can choose between 3 colors for the screws. You have the choice between 10 dials colors and all with green lume 5-minute markers. On this dial and to read the hour you have the choice between 5 colors for the hour and minute hands. Both front and back of the watch are equipped with a sapphire crystal. This one is the best choice because of its hardness, which is really close to the diamond, making the glass extremely strong and scratch-resistant with a superior optical transmission. The backside of the glass is coated with anti-reflective properties to reduce glaring.

The Miang Copenhagen Bespoke is built on a mechanical movement with automatic winding that’s powered by the movement of your wrist. No need for batteries or hand winding. For the heart of the piece they chose the Japanese movement ca. 8217 from Citizen-owned Miyota. Compared to a Swiss ETA or Sellita movement, the quality of the 8217 can easily compete. It just comes with less of the overhead that always goes along with a “Swiss-made” tag, which means that they can offer great quality at a really great price. They even customized the movement by electroplating the rotor in a stunning blue color and engraving the « M » logo on it. As with everything else with this timepiece, they handpick the best materials for their straps. They get their calfskin from Italy, the suede in Denmark and salmon leather from Brazil. All straps are hand-stitched and lined with soft and comfortable suede on the backside, which means that you’ll have something really comfortable on the wrist. They are supplied with buckles in the same color than the case of the watch. A sporty watch which with all these possibilities really gives envy. I cannot even imagine the size of their stock, but what is certain is that they can deliver each piece in 4 weeks. A real headache in terms of logistics, but it is necessary when you want to propose something so special.

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Your chance to show off your personal style.

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INTERVIEW

JENS OLE MIANG

Around that time I met a dutchman who was selling promotional watches to corporate clients via direct marketing campaigns, posting printed marketing material. I liked the concept and decided to test it in Denmark by buying the watches from him. The test went really well and based on this I started my own business. I developed a system so that I could quite easily translate and run campaigns in more countries at the same time, sometimes running campaigns in 5 countries at a time. This was all analogue with local customer service etc. Scandinavia was the main market but we also ran campaigns in Germany, Holland, England, Ireland, Austria and even in China with a local partner. This concept worked very well until this way of marketing became too expensive due to the high rise in postage in recent years. Where did your idea come from of proposing watch enthusiasts to design their own timepiece ? When I worked with promotional watches corporate customers could also customize their watches on our website although with much fewer design options as is the case with Miang Copenhagen. For many years I had this idea of offering highly customizable quality watches to individuals but only realized the idea in 2015. I never understood why this service was available in other industries, like the automotive and sneaker industries but not for customers shopping for quality watches. I mean, why is the customer given so little opportunity to personalize his or her watch aside from choosing a different color or material for the strap? I wanted to change that.

to work with reliable local partners who understand our requirements for perfection. These partners are not easy to find in China where we source many parts and where the watches are being assembled, but during the past 20 years or so I have made more than 60 business trips to China which have given me a very good knowledge of the industry. With so many interchangeable parts and design combinations your customers can make all what they want when designing their watch. Do you have a personal favorite combination for your new Bespoke Watch ? In general, I like honest materials. A simple and understated design language and the color blue. So, I would go for the case in natural titanium color which is very close to the color of steel, our shimmering blue dial and our blue salmon leather strap. Then as extras I would add the solid carbon fiber bezel and the black leather strap. By interchanging the 2 bezels and 2 straps I would be able to ‘build’ 4 watches myself with very different looks. I am actually wearing a watch like this as my daily watch. We made a test and with all these combinations we spent a lot of time on the site to choose our own watch. Do you have a statistic showing how long a customer is spending on the website to create his watch? We do have statistics and it varies a lot on how long time a customer will spend on the page. As with everything else in life some people make fast decisions, and some do not. But I think it is normal for a customer to design his or her favorite watch on the website, to think a little about it and then come back the next day to do one or two amendments before placing the order. That’s part of the fun with this concept. We often hear from customers how surprisingly easy it is to work with the customizer tool on the website and that if they didn’t know they wouldn’t have imagined there were so many possible combinations. This new watch is really well made without mentioning all the possibilities you offer. You worked closely with Mr. Jan Egeberg to design it. What was the biggest challenges you had to face at the design stage? The most challenging part was the exchangeable bezel. The

This kind of approach seems very complicated to put in place especially because you need a large stock of parts. How do you manage all this? It is quite complicated, yes. As you mention we have to stock a large amount of components in order to being able to deliver the watches within 4 weeks including shipping. The biggest challenge, however, is to set up a secure system so that watches are assembled correctly according to the customers customization. For the Bespoke model there are close to 20 million possible combinations and this means there is also the same amount of possible mistakes when assembling a watch. To avoid mistakes we developed a system where the whole order and assembly process is based on pictures rather than words, since it is easier for everybody involved to relate to a picture of say a red second hand rather than the phrase ‘red second hand’. This way we also eliminate linguistic misunderstandings. It is also paramount

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First of all, could you tell us a little more about you and your background ? I was born in Copenhagen, Denmark, and have lived here all of my life apart from a year after high school which I spent working in shipping in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. After that I studied law and graduated with masters of law from the University of Copenhagen. I specialized in transportation law and worked for a big shipping and forwarding company. However, I found the work rather uninspiring and after a few years I shifted from law to marketing, working for a mail order company.

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case construction is different from a watch with a fixed bezel and we wanted the bezel to be really close to the sapphire lens and dial making the bezel a very integrated part of the watch. However, due to the o-ring that normally holds the lens in place in combination with the exchangeable bezel system, we were not satisfied with the joint between the bezel and lens. We therefore decided to glue the lens to the case with an invisible super glue and this solved the problem in a very satisfactory manner. This might sound very simple but, it takes a lot of technical discussions, drawings and tests to reach the final result. Could you tell us a funny story about the creative process? I can tell you something about the creative process of the customers. With the Bespoke the customer can have a short text engraved on the case back which is included in the price of the watch. It is a lot of fun to see the various short texts customers come up with. Mottos can be funny or serious, or famous quotes. If the watch is a gift, and many are, there can be sweet love messages. There can be messages from father to son or vice versa. It’s nice to see the creativity of customers here and the effort they put into creating the right message. At the heart of the watches we find the movement ca. 8217 from Citizen-owned Miyota, and you decided to add a custom blue rotor to 42

it. Why did you choose this movement ? First of all, I find Citizen/Miyota a very reliable partner with a huge knowledge on movements. They are industry leaders in making quality movements at a competitive price. In terms of quality and reliability I would say they are the Toyota of movement making. The cal. 8217 is one of the so called fine finishing movements in the 8000 series which means that the main plate is nicely decorated and the rotor is skeletonized. This is important when offering a view of the movement through the case back. To further enhance the look of the movement we electroplated the rotor in a stunning blue color and engraved our logo M. This blue rotor is a Miang Copenhagen signature detail that you will also find on the Flash Automatic series. For you what’s the main difference between your first creation « the Flash Automatic & F.A GMT» and the new « Bespoke Watch » ? Well, the designs are very different. The Flash Automatic has a more instrumental look while the Bespoke has a sporty look. The Bespoke offers more customization options and is upgraded in terms of material, the case being made of titanium. This is a wonderful material, stronger and much lighter than steel making the Bespoke extremely comfortable on the wrist. Another difference is that the Flash Automatic is tested to 5 ATM

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waterproofness while the Bespoke is tested to 10 ATM. Of course, the Bespoke comes with a higher price tag but both watches offer a lot of watch for your money. In the current market it’s not easy for new microbrands to get a place under the sun. How do you make yourself visible to potential customers? First of all, we try hard to make some beautiful quality watches. Then there is the whole customization concept which differentiates us from almost all other microbrands. In todays competitive market place you cannot come up with just another nice watch that looks like a lot of other nice watches and expect to be successful. You have to have some kind of edge in order to find your niche in the market. For us this edge is the customization. Apart from that we do quite a lot of online marketing on social media because without marketing you just don’t sell. Let’s talk about the future. What are your goals for the company in the coming years? We want to slowly expand our line of watches. Up until now our watches are more to the masculine side, both designwise and size-wise, so the next model could be a more unisex or feminine watch. No matter what it will always be customizable to some extent, as this is in our DNA. I would also like to open a shop here in central Copenhagen. This would attract new customers, among them tourists and help spread the word.

We know that the current economic climate isn’t easy for the watch industry. What do you see as the most significant challenges for many brands over the next few years? One challenge is to stand out from all the buzz that social media is creating these days and getting yourself heard. This is not an easy task, as there are so many microbrands around and everybody wants a piece of the cake, naturally. Then there is the issue with smart watches. I know people who will wear their smart watch on the job and then shift to an analogue watch after work. I think this may become the new normal, so smart and analogue can exist side by side, rather than becoming a question of either or. Then of course there is the whole geopolitical situation with conflicts all over the globe. These conflicts affect and threaten us all but there is not much a microbrand or an individual can do about it, except for hoping for the best. 43

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INTERVIEW

OCTAVIO GARCIA

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GORILLA Watch

Gorilla Watch â&#x20AC;&#x201C; what an original name. Could you tell us something more about the name of the brand? I see Gorilla as a disruptive, creative force with a compelling visual presence. Combining our passion for cars with strong urban influences and solid watch design savoir-faire. Founded on the fundamental premise that the majority of mainstream accessible watch brands are dull and uninspiring. The name and raging Gorilla logo expresses our brand of creative energy and relentless pursuit to break through the status quo offering exciting products at reasonable price points, integrating high-tech design, materials and engineering ordinarily reserved for high-end brands and aimed at a new generation of watch enthusiasts. You and Lukas both have a great experience in watch design. We can mention Audemars Piguet or IWC Schaffhausen for example which both are luxury brands. How did your collaboration come about? Lukas and I met in 2011 when he joined Audemars Piguet as senior designer. His solid watch design experiences and marketing knowhow were key creative tools that bring a sharper business edge to the design thinking process. What is the difference, if there is one, between designing a watch at $ 100,000 and a watch at $ 1,000? From a design standpoint the differences are not huge, the Gorilla fastback is a sophisticated product, integrating a layering of high-tech materials sculpted into a succession of geometrically complex surfaces flowing around the wrist through an integrated rubber strap. Designed and engineered to offer true sport watch performance complete with scratch resistant sapphire crystal, 100-meter water resistance and a screw down crown, a package typically reserved for high-end watches. What was your inspiration when you started to design the Fastback Watch? The art and culture of car customisation, taking an iconic automobile past or present and amplifying its beauty and performance with modern technologies, design and engineering. The design of the Fastback is completely contemporary and you even come with layered case construction, using forged carbon, aluminium, titanium and ceramic. How did you come up with this mix? There is certainly a cool factor associated with the choice of materials. The visual interplay of matte carbon against the red anodized aluminum pinstripe and shiny black ceramic are visually striking and unique. However the principle objective was to create an optimized sports watch experience by assembling high-performance materials in a sequence that fully exploits the mechanical attributes of each material. Scratch resistant sapphire and ceramic cover the areas prone to daily wearer trauma. Feather light forged carbon has exceptional torsional and tensile strength, perfect for the watch chassis, carrying the bracelet, bezel, case back and movement container and the titanium case-back and container is warm to the touch, anti-corrosive and assures 100-meter water resistance. 45

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A few months ago with Lukas Gopp you decided to create your own watch brand. What prompted you to get started? Shaping a personal vision of a watch brand has been a long-standing dream of mine. Following a 17-year career designing for some of Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most innovative and prestigious watch houses including 11-years at the helm of Audemars Piguetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creative department, the timing was right to join forces with Lukas Gopp to realise that dream.

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The watch is powered by the Japanese (Citizen-owned) Miyota 8215, which is an automatic movement. Why did you choose this type of movements rather than a Swiss movement such as an ETA 2824? Our aim is to offer an exciting, reliable product at a fair price point. We study various caliber options and came to the conclusion that the Miyota 8215 best met our objectives. It has also become clear to us that the Swiss Made label is not essential for our brand to find an audience of watch enthusiasts. The real question now is: Why focus on accessibility while you both worked for some of the most prestigious (and expensive) Swiss watch brands? Conventional wisdom says you need a limitless environment to be creative. I've always believed that constraints are where designer thrive best, our initial idea was to challenge ourselves with the “burden” of constraint, imposing ourselves specific design, quality, and price targets. We think bringing creativity to a price segment that for the most part focuses on compliant products is where we could make the most substantial impact. You were never tempted to launch a high end luxury watch brands? Of course. It was my initial ideas, a crazy movement in an even crazier case, but the fact is we are 4 months old, we leave all doors open and are capable of exploring more elaborate design exercises in the future. The brand is still young. What can we expect from the future developments? On the product front, our short-term priority is to extend the Fastback line, offering new colorways. We are also experimenting with some fresh new material combinations. On the marketing front, following the momentum triggered by fantastic press reviews, tremendous support from our pioneer clients and a wave of encouragement from watch enthusiasts, we are continuing to build Gorilla's visual brand world and will progressively begin sharing it on social media. Mid-term we are working on developing retail partnerships. I know you don’t have yet a real visibility on that; but do you have an idea on how is the Fastback received by watch enthusiasts? Our “no compromise” stance doesn’t appeal to everyone, and there has been a polarizing effect around the brand. However as mentioned above we have struck a chord with an international audience of watch enthusiasts that understand where were coming from. Well what’s next? What are your plans for the future and more than this, where do you see the brand in 10 years? Our principle focus is continuous product improvement and innovation, we are well aware that they are essential elements in building long term growth and sustainability. 46

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Our principle focus is continuous product improvement and innovation, we are well aware that they are essential elements in building long term growth and sustainability. 47

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GORILLA Watch

FA S T B AC K

good design creates experiences, not just a product, but something you’ll like at first sight, something that will give you the opportunity to immerse yourself in your imagination. The Fastback from Gorilla Watch will give you this possibility. But more than that, it’s the demonstration of the ability of a young brand to innovate in terms of design and give them the chance to differentiate themselves from their competitors.

This badass automotive inspired watch, which is not linked to any type of car brand or model, was created by Octavio Garcia and Lukas Gopp, two former designers of Audemars Piguet (and so many other brands). In 2016 the founders of this new brand decided to combine their passion for cars and watches, trying to bring something new to the watchmaking landscape.

And what ? We can say that they have succeeded. But hey, it’s all about a virtuous cycle - Great attracts great. So when you have great designers, who actually are great guys, mixed with a great use of materials to produce a very well-balanced product, thus at the end you can only find yourself face to a great success. Humans are attracted to authenticity and you can really find this in this brand. You may say why? Just because Octavio and Lukas remain true to themselves by creating exactly what they wanted to do. A quality car inspired watch that’s actually not expensive. Never forget that authenticity concerns the truthfulness of origins, commitments, sincerity, devotion, and intentions. In the end, design is a line that runs from the internal principles and values of a company out to the end result, the product that touches the customer. And that’s the power of design. To immediately connect people to people, people to products, and people to brands. A watch that has a cocktail of materials, at 44mm wide case (48.5mm with the crown protector), and which is inspired by 1970’s muscle cars and 60’s / 70’s watch design can only be a success or conversation piece.

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For sure they are not in the status quo or something very classical – Just have a look to the piece and you’ll see that they want to be a bit disruptive. This watch is composed from a mix of materials including carbon fiber, ceramic, titanium, aluminum, and sapphire crystal. So when you see the number of materials used you can only be impressed. At the heart of the piece you’ll find the Japanese (Citizen-owned) Miyota 8215, which is an automatic hand winding movement. This one is beating at 3Hz and offers 40-plus hours of power reserve and an accuracy of about -20 to +40 seconds per day. At first the watch can looks big for you but thanks to all these various materials you still have something light on the wrist - here the weight is only 110g, which isn't super light for sure, but which is pretty good for the size of the piece. The front of the watch comprises a ceramic bezel and antireflective sapphire crystal under which we have a skeletonized minute hands and a unique and mesmerizing hour disk. Even if the dial looks busy at first sight, the design technique creates interest and a really cool impression of dynamism. Of course, the whole is with luminescent hands and numerals in order to give you the possibility to see the time in the dark. The dial is successful in creating a sense of depth, which is something to point out. With various layers and the three hands that contrast one with the other, the rehaut that carries the minutes/seconds scale, followed by the raised numerals, and finally by the center of the dial with its cutout view to a layer underneath... Everything looks great on it. And what more? On the caseback, we find a screweddown titanium plate which is engraved with an image of a gorilla (hence the name of the brand) and the model name “Fastback”. It carries the number of the watch, but only for the first 500… so hurry up if you want a special number. The Gorilla Fastback watch seems to be entirely composed of different elements of 1970’s car design - from the fonts numbers on the dial to the perforated leather strap’s titanium buckle that’s designed like a car’s pedal. Well…Imagination and invention go hand in hand. Remember how lack of resources was never a problem in childhood games? Shift a few pieces, use some new materials, assemble everything and you'll have something great to put on your wrist. For sure with the Fastback Octavio and Lukas wanted to do something a bit Rock ’n’ Roll and we must say that they have succeeded on this. I believe that imagination is stronger than knowledge, but here you have two guys with a lot of konwledges and imagination, so coming from them one could only expect to see a watch successful in every way.

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INTERVIEW MIKE FRANCE -

Christopher Ward

atchisthis?! picked the brain of Mike France, one of the founders of the highly successful brand Christopher Ward. You co-founded Christopher Ward in 2004, and have accomplished quite a bit in only 13 years. When you look back, what at your most proud of? We tend not to look back but I suppose that given 95% of start-ups flounder in the first year or so, our greatest achievement is that we’re still here to be asked the question! As far as watchmaking is concerned we have been fortunate enough to have developed our own in-house movement, Calibre SH21. It’s a very special movement and independent watch brands like us aren’t supposed to be able to create stuff like this. It was a particularly rewarding moment when the CEO of one of the major Swiss brands, on discovering what we had done said, “ What gives you the license to do that?”. You currently offer watches with manufacture movements, yet still for affordable prices: what is your secret? It isn’t a secret. We are completely transparent about our cost model and decided at the outset that by going directly to the consumer and applying no more than a x3 basis to the manufacturing price we could make a fair profit. The typical multiple in watches is 7 -10 times and we once even discovered a x34 multiple being applied by one of the bigger Swiss brands. I suppose the cost of employing Hollywood stars to pretend they love your watches doesn’t come cheap. Currently, the watch industry as a whole is going through a rough patch, and many brands have trouble balancing online sales and their traditional retail network. Do you feel that Christopher Ward has an edge because it has done nothing else but sold online? Yes, most definitely. The traditional brands have woken up to the online opportunity but are hamstrung by their other channels. It’s not an easy square to circle with customer expectation that online prices will be lower and yet a business model that doesn’t allow similarly low prices offline. In the long run, however, I do believe the number of offline distributors will be hugely reduced and this may allow more flexibility. It’s likely to be a pretty long and tortuous journey though.

Over the years Christopher Ward has also developed its own, distinct look. How did this process go? When we started the brand it would be fair to say that our models were largely our interpretations of well-known watch designs. As our confidence as a watchmaker and a brand developed we increasingly looked to create a more distinctive Christopher Ward aesthetic. Now, with the investments we have made, particularly in hugely talented designers, including our Senior Designer, Adrian Buchmann, a strong signature look has emerged which is very exciting for us. It’s an ongoing process, however, and we need to keep pushing the boundaries of design to stay ahead of the competition. With so much accomplished in a relatively short period of time, what is it that you still would like to achieve with Christopher Ward? We’ve only started really. It’s a big world out there and a big market (circa £32 billion at the last count). We just want to keep growing by making fine timepieces available to as many people as possible. We do see the North American market, which today is about 30% of our business becoming our biggest market within the next few years. Which model is most special to you personally and why? I tend to like the latest model we create the most but I do have a soft spot for the C5 Malvern Mk 3 which we launched early this year because it is the direct descendant of our very first watch. I helped design that watch and although it seems rather clunky compared to Adrian’s fantastic new design, it was the watch that got this whole thing off the ground and, as a result, will always be very special to me.

A little bit of history in 2004, three friends, Mike France, Chris Ward and Peter Ellis, decided to start a watch company. While sailing along the River Thames, Christopher Ward Watches was born. They all share the same passion for horology and together with their retail experience managed to bring to the market premium quality at affordable prices. The secret of the low prices consists in removing expensive marketing campaigns and celebrity endorsement. Their first watch, released in June 2005, was a success. The next watches followed the success of the first due to high quality and competitive market price. In 2008, Christopher Ward Watches started to work with Synergies Horlogères, Switzerland, to extend and improve their collections. By 2014, the brand releases their first in-house movement commercially viable – first time in 50 years for a British watch brand. We can conclude that they are prepared to offer the best quality with the promise of the best price. The C1 Grand Malvern Jumping Hour Under this name we discovered a beautiful dress watch. The beauty stands not only in the classical shaped case, but also in the pretty rare horological complication – the jumping hours. The case is a three-parts construction made of surgical 316L steel. The combination of mirror polished surfaces and brushed sides is elegant. Having a diameter of 40.5mm and a height of 12.65mm, this timepiece looks great on any wrist. At a weight of only 62 grams, it will also be an effortless pleasure to wear it. The watch is 3atm water resistant, you can wear it on any weather but swimming or more extreme activities are not recommended. Under the double curved top sapphire crystal sits a domed opaline dial or a sunray blue or grey dial. Even simple, the dial stands out through some small details and the quality

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Christopher WardC1 Grand Malvern Jumping Hour

of the finishes. At 12 o’clock, the jumping hour window is visible, thanks to a long bevelling of the dial. The minutes’ hand reaches the fine printed minutes’ scale, sweeping every 5 minutes over curved, long baton indexes. The minutes’ hand is also curved, following the dial’s shape in an undisruptive way. Deep inside you can find the Sellita SW200-1 calibre. This Swiss movement is robust and well decorated. To obtain the jumping hour complication was used a bespoke Calibre JJ01 module, placed on top of the SW200-1. The most exquisite element would be the ball-bearing mounted rotor with twin-flag engraving over a “Colimaçoné” finish. The entire refinement of the movement is visible through the sapphire window of the case-back. The C1 Grand Malvern Jumping Hour watch comes with three dial variants and two strap options: Opalin White, Sunray Blue, Sunray Grey and, respectively, Italian Shel Cordovan strap with deployment clasp or a beautiful Milanese steel bracelet. The C1 Grand Malvern is an excellently built watch. The details of fine quality are everywhere, including on the polished steel crown – the twin-flag. If you look for a watch that stands out, if you want an exclusive horological complication, then this is the watch you have been looking for. I like it! How can I have one? The watches are available for direct order on the Christopher Ward Website – www.christopherward.com– for USD 1,595 for the leather strap and USD 1630 for the steel band. The price is great for this quality and, even more, the price is almost unbeatable for the jumping hour complication. A welcomed bonus is the free worldwide Standard Shipping, promised to be always free. 51

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Biatec Majestic

SLOVAKIAN style WITH AN eye for details

astern Europe is picking up speed fast when it comes to creating original, high-end watches which still reside in affordable price categories. Next, to Balticus and Estonia 1918, Slovakian brand Biatec is introducing very interesting watches, and their “Majestic” is one of them.

The watch looks much bolder then it actually is, with a case diameter of only 40mm. This is mainly due to the beautiful sunburst dial which Biatec offers in various colors. The sub dial is always silver, providing a nice contrast, unless of course when you opted for a silver dialed Majestic. The case back of the watch is secured with four screws and holds in the middle a coin, made of 18 carat gold. This coin is minted by the Mint of Mincovňa Kremnica, which is over 700 years old, and Biatec lets you choose between yellow or white gold, and even offers the opportunity to have your own coin minted. With a weight of 3.5 grams it is not a

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...it all shows incredible care and attention to detail, and more so, it is a clear indication that Eastern European brands in general, and Biatec especially, are here to stay!

flimsy piece of gold but quite substantial, also providing enough gold to show the beautiful relief of a horse and rider, who’s image was inspired on an ancient coin. Behind that coin is the Majestic holding a “secret”. Most people would have expected an ETA/Unitas manual wind movement inside this watch, which would have been quite challenging given the diameter of the case. In fact, the watch is powered by automatic Eterna caliber 3901A. This modern movement has a generous power reserve of 65 hours and is a far less obvious choice since only very few watch manufacturers use this movement.

With a price under 1.600€ the Majestic is obviously higher than your average Kickstarter brand, but for a good reason. Not only the choice of movement or the golden coin in the back makes that difference, but also the refinement of the concept. The dial with very little writing on it, the robust, clean case, the brushed serial number plate which is screwed in between the bottom lugs, even the buckle with the Biatec logo applied on top: it all shows incredible care and attention to detail, and more so, it is a clear indication that Eastern European brands in general, and Biatec especially, are here to stay! 53

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CJR Commander Series

rowdfunding has become a primary source for new watch products and Calvin Jr is not at his first attempt.

Indeed, the brand based in Hong Kong has already achieved three campaigns with great success... The Velocita, the Airspeed and the Commander Series. The last one is an outstanding timepiece inspired by aircraft.

Before I start to describe the piece I must confess something to you … I’m a fan! I love its design and I really love having it on my wrist. This is, I think, a watch with originality / sportiness / quality and price ratio that is excellent.

So now let’s have a look the watch. The Commander series offer you the possibility to get a statement watch without breaking the bank as you can get it for only 650$. At this price you’ll have a real work of Art on the wrist.

I was already a fan of the Airspeed watch, and here Calvin Jr, still managed to amaze me … From a design point of view it’s a real success. The piece with a diameter of 45 x 16,25mm may seem big for small wrists. But in fact thanks to its very aerodynamic design and its generous curves, the latter fits the wrist just perfectly … and even for small wrists like mine. The dome shape mineral glass magnifies the whole skeleton dial. When one looks more carefully, one notices that, as well as on the front or the back, CJR puts a band of color (red or blue according to the version), which takes again the same colors as some other details of the dial and the bracelet. The dial is of course the center of all attention. It’s made with several ultra cool details. The first thing that caught my eyes was of course the seconds’ wheel which has been inspired by plane turbine. It’s really unique and it gives dynamism to the dial. At 9am there is a 24h indicator. The latter is represented by a transparent subdial on which the hours have been

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printed. We must admit that this feature is quite interesting, especially if you travel a lot. When traveling between time zones, it is easy to lose track of time, particularly whether it is AM or PM. Here, by showing the hour of day, time never eludes the wearer. The hours and minutes hands are just awesome… They do not resemble anything else existing. It is, I think, what’s really good with Calvin Jr. Although it’s a small brand which offers watches at low prices, there is no negligence at the design level … And even on the contrary, they take risks. These skeleton needles have 3 different colors, not including the addition of the luminova (that we also find on the indexes). They contrast perfectly with the rest of the piece, and of course, they stick completely to the basic inspiration. Another nice detail of this dial is the honeycomb structure that we can see at 6 and 12 o’clock. I find this interesting because it’s really something you can find in a plane. Honeycomb structures have a special geometry that allow the minimization of the amount of used material to reach minimal weight and minimal material cost. They are widely used in the aerospace industry and honeycomb materials in aluminum, fibreglass and advanced composite materials have been featured in aircraft and rockets since the 1950s. Honeycomb structures have found usage for noise damping in modern jet engines, and actively cooled honeycomb structures may be the basis of wing and fuselage design for aerospace plane. Here the cells of the structure/dial have a hexagonal shape just like the shock absorption honeycomb structures that we can find on some supercars. Behind it we can see the movement. Calvin Jr decided to use the Miyota 82S7 which has 40 hours of power reserve. This movement, known for its robustness, is also used in the very famous SevenFriday P1B/01 watch. To finish we have a strong Italian leather strap that has the same color touches of the rest of the watch. This one is finished with a simple pin buckle.

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you Would

rent

watch?

your

he Swiss watch brand Dubois & Fils is nothing but original. They pioneered with direct sales to the public, opened up their brand for individual investors like you and me, and now they offer their watches for rent. They combine this entrepreneurial spirit with good old-fashioned watchmaking. Their watches are of a very good quality, quite original in design, and of course fully Swiss made. 56

Renting a watch is an interesting concept, and Dubois & Fils is not the first to experiment with it, although they might be the first brand that does it on their own. You have to be a shareholder to participate, but when that hurdle is taken you can pretty much rent your choice of watch from the entire Dubois & Fils collection. The rental prices range from 80 CHF a month for their big date automatic, to 135 CHF for a big date chronograph. There is a one time registration fee per rental period of 150 CHF when you are located in Switzerland, and 250 CHF when you live abroad. The minimum rental time is 1 month, the maximum 12 months. Dubois & Fils promotes the renting of their watches as ideal in a time when sharing becomes more popular. Not sure if this is the same thing, since you rent and not bought

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a watch with 5 friends and let it rotate. Dubois & Fils also claims that it will allow you to enjoy a high quality Swiss watch without a large upfront investment. However, apart from the actual investment you need to make in Dubois & Fils shares to qualify, you can spend 135CHF x 12 + 250CHF (in my case) makes 1.870 CHF a year and at the end of it, you don’t even have a watch. Dubois & Fils must have thought of that as well, because they offer a clever reimbursement schedule. When you

upload pictures of your watch during the rental period they reimburse you some of the amount paid, when you get “likes” on it, they reimburse you some more up until half of the rental charge. That can bring the price down, but requires work, and enough likes. I do think this is a great concept, but mainly to try a watch for a month or so to see if you actually want to invest several thousand Swiss franc’s in it to own it yourself. What do you think? Would you rent your watch?

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art corner

The alliance of absurdity and humor

t Watchisthis?! we like watches but we also love Art.

For this issue we decided to present you “Slip“, a French artist who works primarily on collage. Based in Lyon, he spread his work for over ten years both through exhibitions and publications collaborations with magazines. Those with "Paperwallet" led him to integrate the store of the Guggenheim Museum in New York with his favorite character, Leon Grellutch.

You have to know that in 1986, Leon Grellutch would become the first Belgian astronaut. Unfortunately, the trip sponsored by Jupiler will never see the day and Leon will stay with his feet on earth forever. He’s always visiting Belgian universities to give lectures about life on Mars. Leon, in the Slip universe, is a cosmonaut-lion. 58

When we look at the work of this artist we can only be surprised and a bit dubious. Indeed, he has a curious universe in which, for example, animals go to work. He popularizes the world using collage technic, most of the time with vintage images and an amazing color scheme, which gives him a very contemporary style with Pop-Art references. He manages to combine the absurdity with a touch of humor, all in a surreal setting.

Appeared in the early twentieth century, the collage technique, consists to create an artwork through the combination of separate elements of all kinds (wallpaper, newspapers, various objects, ...) which at the end combine reality and fiction leaving to the viewer free interpretation. Even the cubist Pablo Picasso used this technique to rearrange the space of a canvas by creating overlapping and additional planes. Well, he was one of the initiators of this movement.

This one projects us in the clouds with gods. This young god is the master of time and so he controls it with this huge watch. He seems to be tired by his previous work and decides to have rest. He stops and looks through the glass the time rolling on earth without his intervention.

This illustration deals with one of Slip’s favorite theme : Time passing by.

In our life, we’re so obsessed by making things that we often forget to take time for a break. For this illustration, the main character is the watch of course. It took to Slip, time to get the perfect one, searching the perfect angle, the perfect body (in the watch industry we would say « the perfect case »). He decided to choose a diving watch because it gaves him the opportunity to describe a full world inside. Chronos needs to have a melancolic behaviour, mixing tiredness and observation. The watch he chose for this for this artwork is a CCCP Kashalot Submarine Automatic designed by Alexander Shorokhoff. CCCP watch collection draws its design inspiration from the life and times of a significant part of the modern political era of the Soviet Union. It was Yuri Gagarin, the cosmonaut who took with him the hopes and dreams of mankind as he become the first human being into space – breaking free from the Earth below. CCCP timepieces celebrate this and also the order of timekeeping and watchmaking from the storied houses of Soviet watchmakers. Funny when you know that Slip’s favorite character is Leon Grellutch who never went in the space. Finally, he used a flying object in order to add more depths in this picture.

Let’s finish with this : « I tried to get a common life situation inside the watch »… And yes, car park is a common life situation. Well done Slip !

Let's talk about another Art movement.The Dadaist collage is not intended to play with the material but to convey a message. Dadaists such as Raoul Hausmann seek to achieve greater freedom of expression, using any material and medium possible. The idea is to create a shock for the spectators. They were intended to make the viewer reflect on the foundations of the society. The glued papers invade the frame and replace the paint. Dadaist collage is characterized as "photomontage". We have all done collage, and especially in school when we were very young. It was obviously a way to raise our artistic level, but also to make us think differently.

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Now, let's take a look at this artwork named « Rare photographie de Chronos jeune » (Rare Photo of Young Chronos).

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Schmutz Watches,

ARTis for everyone

15 artists have been working on Schmutz dials so far, and they did great job. They are all young, have a positiv vision of the world and their own style, from japanese to abstract expressionist, still life, or even inspired by Maoris. You can thus ask for a commissioned watch, with your preferences and your tastes, in order to have a total unique watch realized by a real artist. The results are stunning a well as goofy sometime, but still beautiful ! This is what we call Art with a big « A ».

Space Print Watch - Claudym Erin Berret - Commission

Christine Olmstead Commission

by Marine Schneider

ow much are you keen on art ? At Watchisthis ?! we do love it. This is the reason why we decided to talk about a brand which loves art as much as us : Schmutz Watches. Don’t be tricked by the germanic name, the brand is american and movement are produced in Switzerland. These watches are so delicate and sensible that you will love to know more about it.

Hand-crafted since 2014, the team behind Schmutz Watches is composed of Shann Pittson and Lee Dowell, passionate about watchmaking and especially for Lee, whom great-great grandmother did painting on watch dials in La-Chaux de Fonds. This has inspired the actual team to do so. Working with artists is their leitmotiv to create many different watches, all with a certain atmosphere that emerge from it. They wanted to take art outside the home to make people « discover art in a new and fresh way ». The idea was also to create modern watch that could fit perfectly with contemporary hand painted dials. Each dial is thus unique and this is the feeling that drove the brand until today. 60

Stephanie C. Kelly – Original Watch

Beyond dials, quartz movements are enlighted by PVD or Stainless Steel and leather straps. Movements are manufactured in Switzerland. All pieces come in a very limited number, some are even unique and will never be reproduced again. At least, it seems that an artist remains an artist and producing too much makes it more a consumption good than a piece of art. Well, this is a debate that we won’t examine today, but you better go fast to ask for the next original pieces to come if you really want one ; prices start from 250$ !

Save the Date! March 23rd, 2018!

Wine & Time Basel Event at the Enoteca Vinâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Santo!

Address : St. Alban-Ring 211, 4052 Basel, Suisse

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Gucci : G-Timeless Colors, bees and stars by Marine Schneider

ucci has launched new models to improve its G-Timeless collection with some fascinating watches, we can therefore find male as well as female models. 10 watches have been added to the actual collection with new materials, colors, dials, and movements and are by far very different from the actual collection, making it more fresh and contemporary, perfect to wear during the high season. They all display the specific symbols of Gucci : bees, stars and hearts.

This quartz movement features also a date display and it’s available in two sizes : 36 mm and 40 mm for the case in stainless steel. You can also enjoy it in a white dial or with a milanese mesh strap. The attention cared about the details is here amazingly captivating as well as these eye-catching primary colours, contrasting very well with the black dial. Other interesting models also deserve your attention ; the signature models Gucci in leather offer new variations of colors but the attention was more focused on the straps this time. You can see the beautiful GG pattern on the embossed leather strap which is perfectly replicated on the dial, matching with the PVD yellow gold case. No hands but the bee and the Gucci logo making very contemporary and simple but stylish watches. Cases come in two feminine sizes : 27 and 38 mm.

We will find then some unisex models as very feminine watches ; the first ones feature automatic movements with a white guilloché dial which come with a milanese mesh strap or an exotic leather strap. The second hand is deported at 6 o’clock. The second ones are also very colorful models, different enough from the actual collection G-Timeless to be noticed. Almost all straps are matching with dials thanks to the shining colors of lezard for the strap and enamel on the dial. Here again, bees, stars and hearts are used as hands and a date display can be found at 6 o’clock. These are available in 29 mm and 36 mm. We ladies at Watchisthis ?! like this new collection because it’s simply refreshing and different from what we know currently ; the colors are fun and thanks to the news hands, watches show a more poetical universe from Gucci, especially for the Moon Phase presented first, which really charmed us.

The attention cared about the details is here amazingly captivating as well as these eye-catching primary colours, contrasting very well with the black dial.

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One from the 10 brand new watches has specifically catched my eyes : a very eclectic but poetic watch, colorful but easy to read. It features a moonphase with lots of stars, planets and a shooting star, resulting in a magical constellation.

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THE LOOK A

s we start the new season with new resolutions, we can also do the same in our closet. Let’s have a look at what fashion trends held in 2017 from easy-to-wear outfit to one for a special occasion.

by Marine Schneider What’s best than a spring outfit ? I honestly think it’s the best season to prove how stylish you can be.

Tissot Everytime Medium

A very classic watch in these times, as new brands emerge and present the same type of design, Tissot offers us the quality of a very modern and trendy watch. Pink gold, quartz movement, the perfect match !

Jumpsuit Elisabetta Franchi

This black jumpsuit is the perfect new « petite robe noire ». Very elegant, it matches with all kind of style, casual as for a party. The italian designer perfect undertsands our desire for chic simplicity.

Laque de Rouge Shiseido

Bomber Jacket Needle & Thread

Specializing in contemporary occasion pieces, British label Needle & Thread launched its first capsule collection in 2013. Defined by embroidery, embellishments and lace, the brand offers delicate, feminine pieces that suit any celebration. This bomber jacket reveals the « flower power » of spring and in our minds.

Mule with contrasting heels New Look

Somewhere between the old mule and the electric style of gold and black is this pair of shoe by New Look. Very affordable one, these will make your heart melt. Well, I hope so because they did it to mine.

This pink baby doll lipstick has become my best friend. With a light pink shade, it is a perfect mix with a gloss and the intensity of a real lipstick, just like the japanese lacquer. If you’re looking for a girly comfortable lipstick, the PK226 shade is waiting for you.

Blogger bag Saint Laurent

Ain’t Laurent without Yves ! This timeless collection of shoulder bag will go perfectly with the previous items. Saint Laurent is making bags since almost its beginings and as we may say, it’s the cherry on the cake of our outfit.

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Here is what could be the best style for a warm summer evening, the kind that we love.

Flower pattern dress Topshop

Inspired by the New Wave movement as well as Punk of the 80’s, this yellow slip dress has nothing to prove anymore. With a drop back and printed with flowers pattern, this daring and innocent dress could ignite anyone.

Simili leather jacket Only

A black perfecto is the basic that every woman should have in her closet. This one by ONLY is the good mix between perfect shaped and perfect price.

Superstar white silver Adidas

Re-edited from the Original model launched initially in 1969, the Superstar model has become a reference. In silver and white, you can easily wear it for the everyday as a casual sportswear style.

Earrings Gas Bijoux Terracotta Sun Trio Guerlain

What’s best than a beautiful skin under the smooth light of the sunset ? Don’t hide yourself under a ton of make up and highlight what matters with this amazing powder, combining a Terracotta and a contouring powder.

These wonderful earrings are perfect for the festival’s season, to enhance any outfit with a twist of Apache style thanks to the many blue white and green pearls. Gold plated 24 cts.

Heure H Hermès

Yellow gold plated with a white dial enhanced by a solar pattern, the beautiful calf leather strap is a feminine but simple touch. Always effective !

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LADIES

SPORT WATCHES Citizen EM0030-59A

For the ladies with an active life, we recommend the Citizen EM0030-59. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be fooled by the elegant design with white dial and 8 diamonds, the watch is capable to resist harsh conditions: steel case with ceramic bezel, mineral crystal and a water resistance of 100m. Going from an evening event to a night swim imposes no problems to this timepiece. The Eco-Drive movement guarantees no need to change the battery.

TISSOT LADIES BALLADE POWERMATIC 80 COSC

For the fans of the classical watches with a passion for Swiss watches we can recommend the TISSOT LADIES BALLADE POWERMATIC 80 COSC. As the name says, the watch is powered by a powerful COSC certified automatic movement â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Powermatic 80. The 80 hours of power reserve will make possible to wear this timepiece in parallel with other watches without the need of setting the time every day. The bicolour case and dial will make possible to match your watch with other jewellery. This will be a watch that will impress not only other women, but also men. The watch can be ordered with leather or metal strap (bicolour metal strap option is available).

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SHINOLA the CASS

The CASS is a watch produced by the Detroit brand SHINOLA. This is a classical looking piece with the design inspired by the watches for the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;20s. The 28mm square steel case has wire swinging lugs and a heather grey double-wrap leather strap. The sophisticated, vintage look is completed by the navy coloured mother of pearl dial covered with a flat sapphire. The small seconds sub-dial gives even more the impression that the CASS comes from a colourised classic movie.

Edox CO-1 Chronolady

As small monster for an adventurous lady we recommend the EDOX CO-1 Chronolady. This sporty watch features a 38mm steel case with black ceramic bezel offering 300m of water resistance. For these specifications to be fulfilled are used a screw-down crown with double O-ring and also chrono-pushers with the same type of double O-ring. The deep blue dial has a charming chronograph layout and a highly visible date window at 4 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. For a great visibility, the applied hour indexes and the hours and minutes hands are treated with luminescent paint. The CO-1 comes with an EDOX rubber strap with steel pin buckle.

Swatch SVOM1O1G

The SWATCH SKINSCREEN is a fashion statement, a piece of jewellery, a telling time tool. At only 5.4 mm height and 36.8mm diameter, the SVOM1O1G is made to impress. The sunburst dial with white hands is made to show, in a discrete way, that time is passing. On the other hand, the steel Milanese band is made to be a fashion bracelet. Powering this watch is a proprietary SWATCH Swiss quartz movement. Accompanied by other accessories, or alone, this SKINSCREEN watch will be your faithful friend and will draw attention. 67

YOUR AUDIENCE AWAITS

To inquire about our advertising opportunities

FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US! Visist watchisthis.com for more details.

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hristmas and New Year holidays are fast approaching, and some of us have planned to get away to warmer weather, but the rest of us are planning our vacation for next summer. When I plan my vacation I also plan which watches will travel in my watch roll to the beach, mountain, or to the far-away city.

a decade later

Sinn U1: My Ultimate Vacation Watch By Bhanu Chopra

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Langkawi Beach

Sinn u1 pvd bezel with red silicone strap

inside marine life museum in singapore

Each vacation watch has a story to tell, lot of memories to recall – both memorable and poignant. When I glance at them sitting in a watch winder, my mind associates all the memories with each watch. The first story from my collection is of Sinn U1 watch. A watch which remains a very popular with dive watches enthusiasts. I discovered Sinn watches in early 2000’s and the two models I was drawn to were the 144 St Sa chronograph (which I bought first and then like a true Watch Idiot Savant (WIS), ended up selling, and then rebuying), and the U1 dive watch. What drew me to U1 was that it stood out from other divers with its industrial dial and block hands, built like a tank from the German submarine steel, and fantastic 1000-meter depth rating to get it wet while snorkeling. For the summer of 2007, Chopra family decided to vacation in Malaysia and Singapore. As is true with all family vacations, some watch related activity is always planned. This time I decided to meet up with couple of watch enthusiasts in Kuala Lumpur for lunch. After our lunch meeting, we decided to walk over to the local mall where guys could go watch window-shopping and my wife shops for real. I already had U1 on my mind, so why not try it out. What surprised me then (and even now) is how comfortable it is to wear the watch, given that it is a heavy block of steel. My son, then 10-years old, thought the watch was cool. It was a done deal, rubber bracelet was cut to match my wrist, and I was now a Sinner, again. What a perfect start to vacation! The U1 did not leave my wrist the entire vacation whether it was swimming in Langkawi, or racing Go-Karts downhill with family in Santosa Island, or floating down in a traditional Chinese boat in Singapore. However, I did forget my wallet with cash at the beach!

Since then, U1 became my go to vacation watch. It has travelled to many countries, beaches, and swimming pools, yet the most striking thing about it is that it looks like I purchased it just recently. It looks brand new even after 10 years! I will admit that I wore this watch mostly on vacations and occasional hot days at the pool, but the AR coating is intact, the case has survived scratches, and strap looks the same. I made couple of changes to my U1 in past ten years. When I lived in Prague in the late 2000’s, I drove often to Bonn for work. I would pass through Frankfurt, so in 2010 I decided to stop by Sinn HQ in Rodelheim, and buy the PVD coated bezel which essentially converted my Sinn to U1 SDR (now discontinued). In 2013, I requested my friend Uwe, who lives in Frankfurt, to purchase a red silicone strap from Sinn for me. Uwe was kind to send it as a gift, but he ended up purchasing a U2 (of course blamed me for it). Now the watch was more fun and had more of a vacation watch appearance than just a tool diving watch. However, my son felt differently – his opinion was that original bezel and strap look perfect on U1 which gave it a more monochromatic look. So, I decided to keep the original bezel and strap safely in a box for him. He is more than welcome to change the bezel and strap to original when he inherits the watch! Thinking about future, I see Sinn U1 will remain as my vacation watch, even though I may add couple of more desk divers to my collection in next few years. You know this watch has earned a spot in your core collection, when you see it in just about every vacation picture over the years.

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DIVE INTO A

VINTAGE WORLD

By Adam-Mechanical_Time

nce you go down the rabbit hole of vintage watch collecting, it can be a difficult task to find your way back out again. With countless brands, designs, and price points to work with, not to mention the thrill of tracking down that elusive â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;rare birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;; there are many ways a collector can structure his collection. Some choose to solely focus on one brand or reference, whereas others are happy to simply go after designs they like and develop some variety.

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Over the years I’ve been actively collecting vintage watches, I’ve ended up building ‘collections within collections’, with Swiss, German and French skin divers being regular additions! Skin divers are lesser diving watches, in that they generally lack a depth rating and screw-in crown. What they forgo in actual diving ability however, they often make up for with interesting and colourful designs, costing much less than the vintage Submariners and Ploprofs of the world. Two firm favourites from my skin diver collection hail from the same era (1970s) and same country (Germany), but that’s about where the similarities end. First up is the manual wind Dugena Junior. Coming in at a generous 37mm in diameter, the sculpted all-steel case with crown guard sits nicely on the wrist. The matte black dial contrasts very well with the boldly printed hour and minute markers and matching lumed hour and minute hands – in a colour best described as ‘light butternut pumpkin’ – and the square date window framed in white at 3 o’clock is a practical addition that does little to disrupt the dial. Finishing it off is the black and red rotating bezel, essential on dive watch. The Dugena runs the basic but

reliable 17 jewel cal. FE140-1 manual wind movement that still nearly achieves its original 47 hour power reserve. Impressive for a watch over 40 years old. Let’s now compare it against the very rare Eza. Eza was the brand name of Hermann Becker KG, who started as a watch case manufacturer in Pforzheim, in 1921. This Eza benefits from an in-house manufactured case and dial, and Hermann Becker ‘Ultramatic’ HB313 movement. The Eza is slightly smaller in diameter at 35mm, but makes up for it with an exceptionally well made dial featuring a winning combination of applied steel and bright red printed hour markers, a steel-framed date window and of course that awesome square lollipop central seconds hand. An oversized crown and simple black and white rotating bezel finish off the classic skin diver look. I used to own another one of these Eza skin divers, with a blue dial. That actual watch now proudly resides with one of the Dutchmen who relaunched the Eza Watches brand in 2016. Most vintage skin divers nowadays would faint at the sight of water, and are better suited to desk diving duties only. 73

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INTERVIEW

ROBERT-JAN BROER VINTAGE OMEGA

mega has produced numerous iconic timepieces over the years and some are actually quite affordable right now. We had the chance to talk with Omega expert Robert-Jan Broer about the best deals you can make but also about the things on which you have to be careful.

How and when did your passion for the Swiss brand come about? It was actually my first encounter with Swiss watches. My parents and grandparents had Omega watches. My grandparents used to own a bridal boutique in the 1960’s and they had to sell it due to health reasons. From what I understood from my father who told me this story, they bought a couple of watches and some other jewelry from a part of the profit. These watches were a gold Constellation on a gold bracelet and a gold Ladymatic on a gold bracelet. The latter was traded for a hand-wound model, as the Ladymatic watch was so small it didn’t wind very well. My father received an Omega Genève for his graduation in 1969 and later on inherited a (pie-pan) Constellation from his grandfather. So, it is a bit of a family thing. My dad used to tell me that this was the brand that put the first watch on the Moon. I was 10 or 12 or something when he told me so, so that didn’t mean much to me at the time. I was always interested in watches, even as a kid in the 1980’s. In the mid 1990’s I started to become interested in mechanical watches and focused on Omega as that was the brand I knew. In 1999, I bought my first Speedmaster. A Speedmaster Professional 145.012-67 from early 1968 with calibre 321 movement. At that time, this was cheaper than a newer model, which was for me the reason to get it to be honest. I was a student and I wanted a watch for daily 74

wear, so a new one would have been a more ‘safe’ choice. In the end, I am happy I purchased this pre-Moon model of course. I started to become active on watch forums like TimeZone and WatchUseek, especially on the Omega forums. In the early 2000s I started to show interest in other brands as well with regards to my own collection. I had been reading watch magazines (German ones) for a couple of years on all brands, so I wasn’t only focused on Omega, it was just the brand I spent my money on. From an aesthetic perspective, what attract you in Omega? I am not sure if it is a wise thing to say this, but my first love with Omega was the Constellation. Not even the piepan, as much as I love it now, but the later Constellation Manhattan and ’95 models. You would call it a ‘guilty pleasure’ today perhaps, but I don’t like that definition as I stand for what I like, which means I also have one of those. I remember I stared at these models for ages at the Omega dealer back in the 1990’s.For many people that is not the best-looking watch from Omega, but I like its aesthetics somehow with its two claws and integrated bracelet design. But to get back to your question, I think they have a very clear distinction between their collections, yet unmistakably Omega designs. With regards to the Speedmaster, for which my love started in the late 1990s, the design is just timeless. The nicely satin finished case

and polished lyre lugs, the very clean and readable dial. It is a tool watch, yet again it can be worn as a classy looking chronograph on a leather strap as well. Although I am certainly not a fan of all watches Omega has produced or produces, I think they are very loyal to their heritage and beautiful designs from the 1950s and 1960s. Yes, the Omega Constellation line-up is an exception to that, although their recent Constellation Globemaster is a very underappreciated watch in my humble opinion. Today the Speedmaster is probably a dream watch for many people but also a good deal when you start collecting. How could you explain that? Easy. It is a watch with timeless design, only little changed over the last few decades and it has an amazing story to it. A real story, not one that was made up by marketing gurus. You can buy this watch for an amount that is still a lot of money, but also an amount that you can ‘reach’ when you really make an effort. Even if it takes some years, you can probably save up for one if you want to. So I would call this a very accessible icon, compared to some other iconic watches out there such as the Royal Oak, Nautilus or Daytona. All great watches, but with a different price tag. The fun thing about a Speedmaster is also that it doesn’t matter if you buy a new one or a vintage one, the collecting community respects both. You don’t see this very often, especially when it comes to collectors of vintage watches. Another interest thing I noticed is that even if people collect high-end watches such as Patek Philippe or A. Lange &Söhne, they still spend money on a Speedmaster, which resembles the price of a gold folding clasp for their high-end pieces. It is just an iconic and great looking chronograph with an amazing story about its role in the race for the Moon in the 1960’s.

What would be your advice to a collector looking for a vintage Omega? Do your homework, as with all vintage watch collecting. Try to separate the good sources from the bad, not everything written on the internet (and forums) is the truth. Work with old catalogues (you can sometimes easily pick them up via eBay) and make use of the Omega Museum in Bienne once you gained some more knowledge and want to double check things. That’s where they are for, to support you. On Fratello Watches, we have the publications verified as much as possible with Omega, and we only use valid sources for our information. It takes a lot of research and work to write one single article that way, but at least then we get it right. If you are into Speedmasters, there is a great book on the market called Moonwatch Only. It is a must have. Watch books don’t come cheap, I realize that very well, but if they prevent you from making mistakes with vintage watches, they are actually quite cheap. A pair of wrong hands, bezel or dial can cost you thousands to replace for the correct one(s). What’s 250 Euro then? We just published, together with Omega, a print magazine (“Speedy Tuesday Magazine”) about just one watch, the Speedmaster. A 100-page magazine with several topics on the Speedmaster, covering vintage and new models. It is really written in an educative manner, without becoming too technical. We know that there are a lot of fake watches on Internet. Do you have some tips to help new collectors avoid purchasing a fake vintage Omega? Omega is a brand that gets a lot of attention now, especially vintage models. With vintage Rolex for example, a lot of fraud is going on and it is a matter of time when that will also happen to the Omega collector’s community. Now is the time to invest time and money in a nice vintage Omega watch, while it is still relatively safe and good. However, where (big) money is involved, crooks are as well, it’s just like the real world. So again, do your homework and make very sure you can trust the seller and that he does his homework as well. 75

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What kind of Omega priced under 2500$ a collector should consider when starting his collection? That type of money won’t buy you a Speedmaster Professional these days, but you might be lucky and go for a Speedmaster Mark-series, like the Mark II, Mark IV or Mark 4.5. If you are more into dress watches, this amount opens up to gold Omega Constellations and Seamasters from the 1950’s and 1960’s. Wonderful designs with very solid and reliable in-house Omega movements. However, I can also imagine that someone who is new to watches and in his early 20s, might have more fun with an Omega Seamaster Professional (‘Bond’) on his wrist which is accessible in the pre-owned market for this kind of money. That blue dialled Seamaster Professional that was used in the first few Pierce Brosnan Bond movies, reference 2531.80 to be precise, is a sleeper watch. Same goes for the more low-profile 2254.50 version, with black dial and ‘Speedmaster’-style bracelet.

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With the current vintage watch fever, is it difficult to find a good vintage Omega? Not really, but it depends a bit on the model you are after. A perfect condition CK2915 (first reference Speedmaster) will cost you a lot of money and is very difficult to find in a good condition. But in general vintage Omega watches are quite easy to find. A nice pie-pan Constellation or even the rarer Centenary are out there and can be found in original condition without too much search work. Even military watches from Omega that were used during WWII by the British RAF for example are available and affordable. The nice thing about Omega is that you can find something nice and original for a couple of hundred Euros, but you can also go all-out and spend thousands and thousands on something rare like a Constellation Grand Luxe in gold with the famous brick-style bracelet. Although I still think you can find a great deal of good vintage Omega watches, I do have to add that it is no comparison to 10-15 years ago when everything was available at very affordable prices. But that goes for almost every brand out there today, prices have gone up quite a bit since the interest in mechanical watches – and especially vintage – increased drastically. A CK2915 Speedmaster was always difficult to find though, as they were in production for a short time and produced in low numbers. In the Omega history, is there specific periods that you’re interested in? This depends a bit on the watch. For Constellations, the 1950’s and 1960’s are absolutely awesome, but the 1970’s not so much. For most collectors, it probably stops there anyway, my personal interest in the 1982 Constellation Manhattan is a bit of an odd thing. I think in general you could say that the 1970’s and 1980’s weren’t very good for Omega, with some exceptions (regarding certain Speedmasters and Seamaster models). In the 1990’s, Omega made some clear changes and already started to head into the direction where they are today. A manufacturer of good and innovative timepieces, with in-house movements and solid designs. I have to say that I like what they are doing now, with their Master Chronometer movements for example.

If there was only one, what would be your favorite Omega? Then I would pick the Speedmaster. Perhaps a bit cheesy to say but I really am fond of our Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday Limited Edition that we designed in close cooperation with Omega for the 5th anniversary of our ‘Speedy Tuesday’ feature and community. Other than that, I wear my 18ct gold Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI very often. Do you collect many different brands or are you a one-brand kind of guy? I own watches from multiple brands. Some people, especially representatives from other brands than Omega and a couple of colleague journalists, often disapprove of our weekly Speedmaster coverage as they feel we advertise too much for them. On the other hand, I see the same journalists covering a lot of brands and writing it is the best they’ve ever seen, yet they always wear the same Rolex (for example). At least we put our money where our mouth is. We are collectors and enthusiasts in the first place, the journalism aspect comes second. Not everything Omega did or does is something we automatically like, we remain to stay critical. That said, I collect Speedmaster watches and have a number of them. I buy watches from other brands as well, but only what I will actually wear myself and there’s no real ‘collection’ there, just things I like and wear. I don’t have the resources to buy everything I like (and not wear). I need to be able to justify a purchase to myself, we aren’t talking about cheap products here. If I don’t wear a watch, I will sell or trade it for something I do wear. What advice would you give to someone looking to start collecting vintage watches? Educate yourself. On Fratello Watches we give about 50% of our coverage to vintage watches I would say, especially on Thursday we have this feature called #TBT (Throwback Thursday) where we (and especially our editor Michael Stockton) write about vintage watches into detail. Some of our colleagues (or competitors, as you wish) also have great vintage coverage, make sure to read and absorb it. I would also advice to use your brain to stay realistic about certain watches and their prices. It is very easy to get carried away and before you know it, you are (over)spending on watches. Sometimes, if you are in the middle of a purchasing process, it can be wise to take a step back for a moment and think it over. Also make sure to get yourself known with some of the vintage dealers out there, keep an eye on their offers and stock and just study those watches. You can’t know everything about every brand or watch, and it especially about that last 5% that really will make the difference if you did well – or not. As always, buy the seller. Make sure you can rely on him but always make sure to check things yourself as well. In the end, it is your responsibility.

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Is there a solution to authenticate a vintage Omega watch? Yes, have it checked by the Omega Museum. You can order an extract of the archives from them to get some background information on the watch, so you can see if the movement belongs to the specific case for example. For a real authentication, you should bring the watch in for a check. A good and experienced watchmaker with a lot of Omega knowledge can do it as well of course, to disassemble the watch and check if all parts are at least original and time-correct, but most watchmakers are focused on the performance and technical condition of a watch and not so much if hands are time correct or whether a certain bezel model was used in a specific production time-span.

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CHRONOSWISS RÉGULATEUR

an affordable alternative

hronoswiss is a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in München Germany by Gerd Rüdiger Lang,in 1983.Now the company is based in Lucerne, Switzerland.

The Chronoswiss Régulateur was launched in 1987. The brand was the first one to use the classic principle in a wrist watch. Since then, Chronoswiss is one of the most known watch brands using this system. The Régulateur’s case is elegant and beautifully crafted. The design was kept the same for many years, regardless the material used. The watch can be found in white, red or yellow gold, stainless steel and even a combination of gold and steel. The case’s dimensions of 38mm diameter with a height of 10.5mm makes from the Régulateur an indisputable dress watch. The top and bottom are carved, giving it a recognisable and lovely look.

The case body has a matt, brushed finish which is also continued on the lugs. The lugs use a screw pin system to hold the strap. This offers a slightly unusual look to the lugs, but now the system is met in other watches too. A known signature element for Chronoswiss is represented by the onion shaped crown. The case had so much success that it was used partially or totally on other models or copied by other brands. The case is covered with a mineral or sapphire crystal, depending on the age of the watch (the newer one has sapphire). Also, the see-trough case-back can be found with mineral or sapphire crystal. The dial can be found in several finishes. The older models have a silvered dial with printed indexes and numerals. The newer models have several types of guilloche patterns, that get more complicated as they are newer. Depending on how the dial has aged, it can present colour variation – which is normal. There are also available black dials, but they are harder to find.

The first series had a hand wound movement, but this model is very hard to find. After 1990, the movement was changed to an automatic calibre based on the Enicar 165, but with a number of modifications. The name used by the brand for this movement is C.122, detail that can be found usually on the dial, inside the small seconds sub-dial. Calibre C.122 has a power reserve of 40 hours with a 3Hz or 21,600vph balance wheel and 29 jewels (the jewels number is engraved on the one of the movement’s bridges). The movement is pleasantly decorated with perlage, Cotes du Genève and brushing. The ball-bearing

rotor is skeletonised and decorated with the GRL logo (like almost all Chronoswiss watches) from the name of the founder - Gerd Rüdiger Lang. The Chronoswiss Régulateur comes with a leather strap (crocodile or ostrich) and a pin buckle with GRL logo. There is the possibility to find the watch with deployment clasp, also with GRL logo. Some newer and more expensive versions have a steel strap. Normally, the watches come with a wooden box with green interior and warranty papers signed by the brand’s founder itself, in green ink. The reference numbers for the watches are: CH1221 for the case in gold version, CH1222 for the bicolour gold/ steel case and CH1223 for the steel versions. The steel version can be found at prices starting with US$ 2000.

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Regardless the age, case material or dial finishes, all Chronoswiss Régulateurs have flame blued steel hands. The layout of the dial with hours on top, small seconds on bottom and central seconds, along with the beautiful hands, makes from this dial one of the most spectacular classical dials present on the market.

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PanasonicT91 the strangest radio watch ever By Hirota Masayuki

T-91 transistor radio with Seiko Mechanical movement

n 1950’s Japanese electric maker found “gold veins” with pocketable transistor radio. Sony pioneered the market with legendary Transistor radio TR-55, and then many makers followed. The battle between Matsushita (Now Panasonic) and Sony produced various and strange new pocket radio.

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The way to setting timer is not difficult. Turn the bezel to match the desired times. Red marker indicates “on” green marker indicates “off”

The accuracy of the mechanical movement. It is excellent as a seven stone movement made half a century ago

In 1961, Sony announced the TRW-621, which integrates mechanical clocks and radios. This radio had a strange structure, that the built-in mechanical clock would play the role of a timer. When the time was set by turning the bezel, automatically the radio switch would start. Panasonic also immediately countervailed and released T-91 in 1962, which has the same structure as the TRW621. The movement was Seiko or citizen likewise Sony, but unlike TRW-621, the timer function was upgraded that after one hour turned off mechanism was added. The price was 9,800 yen (around 74€). These two "radio clock" had an extremely ambitious mechanism. The Seiko or Citizen made movement had only 7 jewels but the escapement was not a pin-lever but a real Swiss-lever, which gave the radio clock a relatively good accuracy. However, the on-off mechanism was so complex that often broken and it was impossible to fix. Now we can find such interesting “radio clock” on ebay or Yahoo Auctions but unfortunately the majority of them are broken and need to be repaired. But the watchmaker cannot fix the radio, and the radio maker cannot fix the mechanical movement.

A complex circuit. The original operates with a 6v battery, but this T-91 incorporating a boost circuit moves with a 1.5 V battery.

I got a T-91 from an acquaintance's antique dealer for 10000 yen (75€). The clock was moving and the exterior was not bad considering the age. But the radio was broken, and even worse, the batteries that fit this model had already ceased production. In other words, even if you fix the radio, there is no guarantee that it will work. The restoration seemed hopeless, but a talented watchmaker succeeded to fix it. Not only did he completely repair the Seiko-made timer, but he replaced the damaged circuit of the radio and incorporated it into the booster circuit. As a result, this T-91 was perfectly practical. The clock is accurate and the sound from the radio is impeccable. I took this radio with me on a trip the other day; I could enjoy this radio as not only as a companion product but also as a practical product. If you are a diligent collector, it will be fun to find and repair Sony and Panasonic's radio clocks. Fortunately, the price is not high and not difficult to find in the market but please notice: If you want to buy a broken radio clock as a theme of the Sunday work, I recommend not Panasonic but Sony. Because the battery used by Sony's TRW-621 is still available in the market. 81

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Here’s a confession:

wear my watches 24/7. I wear a watch at work, I wear a watch at the gym, I wear a watch to the pub, I wear a watch when cycling, and I wear a watch while sleeping. And part of the fun of owning a small collection is selecting the right tool for the job.

At the moment, one of my favorite watches is a Omega 30T2, a small handwound watch from the 40s with a stainless steel case and delightful silver dial. It’s a watch I’d whole heartedly recommend to WatchIsThis?! readers looking for an affordable and stylish vintage timepiece. But to be honest, it’s not suitable for the hard wear I put my watches through. It’s construction, with the simple snap back case, puts water resistance at some -10 meters – as in, keep it at least 10 meters away from any liquid matter, includingbut-not-limited-to rain, fog, steam and sweat. I started looking for a more rugged placeholder, and finally settled on the NOMOS Club. With its hand-wound movement with small seconds and 36mm case, it’s a watch very much in the same spirit, yet the water-resistance of 100 meters makes it a lot easier to wear on a daily basis. It’s subtle yet distinctive, with a slight touch of quirkiness. Since my purchase earlier this year, it has quickly become my go-to watch, my office and pub beater. There’s hardly any wrist time left for my Speedmaster, Legend Diver, and even the ‘neo-vintage’ Chronomat I wrote about earlier… But there’s this thing: I don’t like to wear my NOMOS during physical activities. The gym is borderline acceptable, but cycling for sure is not. For these, I want a watch as rugged as can be. I don’t need any advanced tracking or health features, but I do appreciate a simple count down timer –preferably one that can be set to the second- and a chronograph. And, I want a watch that’s not too big, as I don’t appreciate it poking in the back of my hand during certain movements. Ergo, here my choice is a G-Shock from the 5600-series. More specifically either the ‘screw back’ 30th Anniversary DW-5030C, or an ‘atomic solar’ GW-M5600 – both of which I customized with contrasting OEM straps. I appreciate their comfort as much as I do their designs, and to me they’re classics of both modern horology and pop-culture. I strap one of these on before working out or cycling, and usually don’t take them off until I’m off to work the next day. They do their job and they do it well. But there’s just this one other little thing. Over the last few weeks, the weather has been really nice over here in the Netherlands. This had me spending quite a few hours on my bike - with the G-Shock. But back at the office, I noticed a slight discomfort: the untanned footprint left by the G-Shock is ever so slightly larger than the area covered by the NOMOS. The horror! As any watch enthusiast knows, the white spot on the wrist -left or right, your choice- is a mark of honor that equals the tight tan lines found on the upper arms and legs of road cycling aficionado’s. It’s to be worn with pride. But it’s supposed to be a discrete pleasure, not a notso-subtle glow radiating from underneath the watch! So what to do? Stick to larger watches for summer time, while I love my NOMOS so much? Hunt for a smaller watch for cycling – do these even exist? Of course, going without is never an option. A proper horological challenge arises… And then we haven’t even discussed which watches to take on my vacation…

Dale Vito Boom

credits

Jonathan

A passion for watches, almost all watches, and an encyclopedic knowledge about them, that is Jonathan. With an eye for the exceptional, he knows where to find great watches and good stories. For the readers of Watchisthis?! Jonathan wants the best. The extra mile, finding ways to bring affordable watchmaking as you have never seen before. And being French, of course with a healthy dose of savoir vivre.

Martin

Although he spends most of his writing career focused on Haute Horlogerie, it was Martin's passion for more affordable watches that resulted in Watchisthis?!. With his eclectic taste, he loves both the bold and the beautiful, ready to describe both in print, but prefer to wear them on his wrist, as he likes to changes watches at least a couple of times a day!

Andrei

Andrei’s passion for horology goes way back, as his fascination began with his grandfathers automatic Swiss-Made wristwatch. A few years ago he discovered his interest in independent watchmakers, whose pieces of haute-horlogerie have spectacular finishes, great complications, but more importantly a soul. Writing about watches is a new occupation for him, as until a while ago he dedicated all his time to his other passion ; developing new technologies for the automotive industry.

Jovan

Jovan has been collecting watches since his early teens. He launched Watchgeek back in 2011, which is known as WristReview.com today. He quotes ’WristReview is a site to help people find, explore, discover and enjoy wristwatches.’ Besides WristReview, he also writes for a number of publications.

Marine

Passion is what defines Marine, especially when it comes to timepieces. She first discovered her love for craftsmanship during a Salon in Paris and after some experiences in the field, has made it her first goal in life. As she says, you can never be an expert with watches as there’s always something new to learn or to be surprised with.

Bhanu

Bhanu Chopra is a watch enthusiast, collector, and freelance writer. He has been writing for Watchuseek for over ten years, covering major industry events and news. He is passionate about pilot watches and writes about them on Flieger Friday blog.

Adam

From the first time he laid eyes on the classic 1972 Omega Geneve Automatic left to him by his grandfather, Adam knew he’d been bitten by the watch collecting bug. Favouring interesting and obscure vintage pieces with a history to tell, there are very few brands he hasn’t come across. Hailing from Australia, tracking down and collecting vintage watches is a challenging but rewarding passion!

Hirota

A watch journalist who is the editor in chief of Chronos Japan Edition. After graduating from university, he became a journalist in 2006 through a general company. Now he is a jury of Watch the Grand Prix "Watchstars".

Dale

An eye for the extraordinary, and a love for the underdog, ensures that whenever you meet Dale he will have something unexpected on his wrist. Despite his strong personal style, his knowledge extends far beyond it, knowing the heights and depths of the watch industry like the back of his hand.

Seatiel

He’s athletic: He surfs the net. A LOT. He would go (online) shopping, adding most cool watch in his wishlist but never checking out. LOL. Life is too short. So why don’t you live it the way you want before you run out of time!

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