EQUIPMENT
M O U N TA I N E E R I N G By the editors of
ALL-PURPOSE ICE AXE
BLACK DIAMOND RAVEN
ALL-IN-ONE RESCUE SYSTEM
MAMMUT RESCYOU CREVASSE KIT You might be able to recite the correct steps for crevasse rescue, but could you really perform them quickly and efficiently under pressure? This all-inclusive kit simplifies things by providing all the gear you need in one user-friendly, Nalgene bottle–size package. The powerful pulley lets you move heavy payloads with relative ease: It creates a 6-to-1 mechanical advantage, so you can move 180 pounds with just 30 pounds of force. You can raise a fallen climber or ascend the rope yourself; just clip the large carabiner to your harness and pull the easy-to-grab handle. Moving past knots in a rescue scenario is just as easy: Take off one clamp at a time and move to the other side of the knot. Testers found everything smooth and simple to operate, even while wearing thick gloves. While this device doesn’t replace good judgment and solid knowledge of rescue systems, it can save time and prevent errors during an emergency. $125; 14 oz.; mammut.ch
HELMET
SINGING ROCK KAPPA One helmet to protect all climbers? That’s the mission of the versatile and airy Kappa. At about 12 ounces, it falls in the midweight range: not so light that it feels like an eggshell, but not so heavy that it slows you down. “With eight smallish vents, it aired out really well even when temps pushed 90°F, and there weren’t so many large holes that I had to worry about tiny pebbles getting in,” says one Rockies tester. Another liked that it was not only adjustable to fit everyone from pinheads to blockheads, but it also fit over a snug toque perfectly, too. This was great for cold mornings on the Mer de Glace in Chamonix, France. A lot of helmets ostensibly “fit” a wide range of skull sizes, but the Kappa proved truly comfortable for everyone and low-profile enough that it didn’t stand up too high. “I’ve gotten zero hot spots where the seams and joints rub, which is typically a problem for me. I’ve used it for everything—Vail ice and Eldorado rock in Colorado, and more.” $70; 11.6 oz.; singingrock.com
HARNESS
BLACK DIAMOND ASPECT “With four gear loops and slots for up to six ice clippers, you can rack enough gear for any and all objectives,” says one tester who used it on ice and mixed climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. “But it’s barely there and as light as a sport climbing harness, so I could use it year-round.” The secret? Black Diamond’s Dual Core XP construction (a thin webbing frame bolstered by EVA foam lining next to skin), which provides the cushiness of a beefier harness without subsequent bulk. “Practicing hard ice routes on toprope was more than comfortable, and it was easy to sit in this rig all day,” says our tester. The wide waist and adjustable leg loops allowed our testers to slip the harness over crampon-compatible boots or cinch it down for use over thinner layers and even shorts. Bonus: It comes with one ice-clipper (a plastic carabiner you can use to organize ice screws or to holster an ice tool—not for protection); purchase more as needed. $80; 14.4 oz. (M); S-XL; blackdiamondequipment.com 90 BACKPACKER FALL/WINTER 2013
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PHOTO BY BEN FULLERTON (BLACK DIAMOND RAVEN). TEXT BY SHANNON DAVIS AND JULIE ELLISON
Say the phrase “ice axe” to any of our testers, and odds are good they’ll picture the classic Raven. With a stainless steel pick that bites into every type of ice, a sharp adze for chopping steps, and a straight aluminum shaft for plunging into steep snow, this axe—which will last you a lifetime—has been our favorite for years, from peaks in New England to Alaska and everywhere in between. $80; 1 lb. 2 oz. (60cm); blackdiamondequipment.com See our November issue for the full review.
Testers: Shannon Davis, Elizabeth Donley, Julie Ellison, Cory Fleagle, Amanda Fox, Ben Fullerton, Dougald MacDonald, Alton Richardson
8/28/13 11:41 AM