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Paige Claassen
Solitary Men (5.13d/5.14a) Val Masino, Italy
Climbing for a cause: Paige Claassen has been traveling since July 1, 2013, on her Lead Now climbing tour with a mission to raise money for women and children around the world. She began her stint in Waterval Boven, South Africa, where she made impressive ascents of several 5.14s, including Digital Warfare and Rolihlahla, and at press time, Claassen had just left China for India. Despite humid and drizzly conditions in Italy, she managed the first female ascent of Solitary Men (5.13d/5.14a), a bouldery route on a 30-degree overhang. Check out the video series of Claassen and her team at climbing.com/video. Rich Crowder
10 | february 2014
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flash Dani Arnold
Eidfjord, Norway
Because of its northern locale, Norway only gets a few hours of light every day in the winter, so ice climbers in the area are well-versed in ignoring nightfall as an obstacle to climbing. In January 2013, photographer Thomas Senf worked with Swiss light artist David Hediger, a team of professional climbers, and Mammut to illuminate these “frost giants,” named from Norse mythology. The setup required several different rope arrangements, complicated pulley systems, 500 meters of cable, colored flares, spotlights, and headlamps. Thomas Senf/ Mammut
Peter Vintoniv
Long Dong Silver (5.9 A3) San Rafael Swell, Utah
Climbers sure can’t resist their towers, even when said spires are characterized by loose rock, poor protection, and only 100 feet of climbing, like you’ll find on this minaret west of Moab, Utah. Photographer Andrew Burr calls it “some of the most horrifying aid climbing around.” One hangerless bolt and an anchor positioned below the true summit comprise the permanent protection, so bring your hammer and some long, thin pitons (as well as a few large cams for the top) to have some semblance of safety. If you do get the courage to surmount this spire, enjoy your 360-degree view of the surreal moonscape. Andrew burr
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Brittany Griffith
Sicilian (5.11) Indian Creek, Utah
Thanks to its relatively short stature and location 50 feet to the right of the ultraclassic splitter Scarface (also 5.11), the 50-foot Sicilian probably doesn’t get as much love as it deserves. This fun route moves up finger and thin-hand cracks, with abundant options for finger-stacks, jams, and laybacks. This photo appears in Chris Noble’s new book, Women Who Dare (falcon.com), which profiles 20 of North America’s best female climbers, including Griffith, Lynn Hill, Sasha DiGiulian, Steph Davis, and more. Personal stories of success and challenge accompany dozens of aweinspiring photos. Chris Noble
Read our review and see more photos from the book at climbing.com.
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Amanda Berezowski
Devil’s Butt (V5) Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands
lem, and Spring Bay—which are home to most of the established problems, though there’s potential for dozens more. The rock is Take one step onto the textured, with everything pristine beaches of Virgin Gorda, and you’ll realize why from crimpy slabs to splitters to gymnastic roofs. this Caribbean hotspot is gaining stature as a climb- Bring extra chalk if you’re a ing destination: Hundreds heavy sweater, as temperaof huge, immaculate granite tures never dip below 60°F. Find more info in A Guide boulders are scattered along the sand, with most to Bouldering and Traveling lines in the V0 to V5 range. in the Virgin Islands ($25, The island is home to four fixedpin.com). national parks—Devils Bay, Rich Crowder the Baths, Fallen Jerusa-
Sarah Hart
Born To Be (5.12b) Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
Sarah Hart spends “just another day cragging with me in a tree snapping pictures,” photographer and area guidebook author Rich Wheater says. This short but powerful route features Rifle, Colorado-esque limestone in the unlikely spot of Vancouver Island. As part of the western province of British Columbia, a hotbed for climbing (think Squamish), the island itself is home to limestone routes, basalt bouldering, and granite domes. Rich Wheater
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