11 minute read
AZZA FAHMY JEWELLERY - NEXT GENERATION
Having the opportunity to meet the next generation of a female found and run fine jewelry business with over 50 years of design, production and history in the industry has been one of our most enjoyable interviews to date. Hailing from Egypt, Azza Fahmys Managing Director FATMA GHALI and Head Designer AMINA GHALI are continuing and growing the legacy their mother Azza Fahmy originally created in 1969.
Fatma and Amina, welcome to QP, we are excited to be chatting with you both. Our team is fascinated by the history of Azza Fahmy, let’s start from the beginning. Your mother, who is Azza Fahmy, initially started the business in 1969 in Egypt. What challenges as a woman did she come up against in a male-dominated industry and how did she combat them?
Our mother faced many challenges when she first began this journey, primarily because no woman with her qualifications had opted to quit a secure government job to seek a career as a jeweler. There were no institutions or courses dedicated to the art of jewelry making in Egypt at the time; only in Old Cairo's jewelry quarter, "Khan El Khalili," were there silversmiths and craftsmen who specialized in jewelry making.
She had to fight very hard to be taken seriously in a pool of men, putting in extra hours and effort to be seen as an equal and to be taken seriously. In the beginning, she had to keep her day job to support herself until she was able to expand and become dependent on jewelry making as a career.
We’re curious to learn what the day-to-day of Azza was back when you were both children. Did she leave the house every morning to go to a studio to design and create and did either of you go with her?
Every day, our mother went to work, working diligently to bring her passion to life. As a single mother, developing a company from the ground up while caring for two young daughters was not an easy task. We commend her greatly for that. Our mum is recognized for being a perfectionist and a hard worker. Not wanting to sacrifice her career for her family or vice versa, she was able to blend the two, and we became a part of her work life.
We would work with our mum as her 'little helpers' throughout the school holidays, doing odd jobs like beading necklaces or tagging and labeling pieces, etc. If she traveled for exhibitions, we would tag along to help. We believe growing up and having these first-hand experiences shaped us into who we are today, both personally and professionally.
Both of your roles are very different within the family business. Amina, you are the Head Designer, we would love to understand your journey, when did you design your first piece of jewelry, and did your mother actively encourage you to do this?
As children, my mother asked my sister and I if we wanted to join the company. Our reaction was straightforward and simple: "Of course we do!" For as long as I can remember, she has encouraged us to pursue our dreams and passions and to hone our skills. As for my first piece of jewelry, it was a crown-inspired brass ring, which I designed while in my first year of college.
Amina, are there any designs that you did when you first started creating jewelry that are still available today?
Yes, when I initially started working with Azza Fahmy, one of my first designs was a charm bracelet with filigree-crafted charms, a signature of the brand. It is still retailing in our stores today. Amina, if you could give one piece of advice to yourself when you first started going down this route, what would it be and why would it be so important?
Rather than worrying yourself or attempting to outdo your past collections, simply follow your inspiration. Although we as designers strain and stress our systems, humans are always evolving, and our surroundings serve as a constant source of inspiration; therefore, design growth happens naturally.
Fatma, you are the CEO of Azza Fahmy, from our understanding this is a position that you have worked your way up into. What was your first role in the business and how have you managed to get to where you are today?
Because work has always been a part of our lives, it is difficult for me to remember when I first started. However, when I was in college, pursuing a BA in oil painting, my mother recommended I begin working with her parttime as I had some free time. In the year 2000, I started working part-time, largely in the sales and marketing departments, and full-time in 2004, as a junior in the marketing department and worked my way up from there.
Fatma, what does your day-to-day look like and do you have any tips you can share that help you get through your “To-Do” list with our readers?
I don't follow a set regimen, as I'm not a huge fan of repetition or routines. However, I normally get up around 7am, drop my daughter off at school, try to squeeze in a workout, before driving to work at 10am. My days at work are always changing which I like as it keeps things interesting, and I am usually home by 5 or 6 p.m. Having a phenomenal assistant is what allows me to get through my to-do list and manage my days so that I am able to accomplish as much as possible.
Regular meditation helps me be centered, focused, and productive. It also helps me identify my priorities, which is what's most important.
We saw that Azza Fahmy partnered with Balmain earlier in the year. Did you get to work alongside Olivier throughout the whole process, how long did it take and what made you decide on creating the piece that was produced?
We were fortunate to collaborate with Balmain and Olivier on this collaboration; we traveled to Paris to meet with him and talked extensively with his design team about how we both wanted the piece to appear. The design phase took three weeks, and the entire collaboration, including the launch, marketing, etc., took eight months.
They were fantastic; it was our first time working on a bust, so we had a lot of fun thinking outside the box and applying our signature techniques to a piece of jewelry that size.
The Eye of Horus Bustier was a masterpiece that memorialized the heritage of the brand’s Egyptian origins. We chose to blend the Ptolemaic Eye with Tutankhamun's Eye of Horus. We included symbols on the sides of the bust that complement the eye, such as the hand-pierced Nekhbet wings, the lotus, and the Shen symbol. The chain and scarab that hang over the back stand for protection, eternity, renewal, and rebirth. Seeing the final piece gave us a sense of pride; it truly is a wonderful tribute to our ancestors.
You have a beautiful flagship store in London in The Burlington Arcade which we’re told is a mecca of stunning timepieces. Are you planning on opening a store in Los Angeles and if so, where would you look to have this?
We have previously explored the US market; in 2019, we had a successful pop-up at the Waldorf Astoria. The United States is an important market for us, as evidenced by our online sales and the presence of US consumers at our London shop. We feel it is an excellent market for Azza Fahmy, we are also present through our agency in London and LA, therefore we are actively exploring ways to enter the US market.
Speaking of London, Azza Fahmy was whisking VIPs around the city during London Fashion Week to attend shows. What made you settle on the idea of hosting this kind of service vs having your designs on the runway?
In the past, whether it was with Preen in 2010 or Matthew Williamson in 2014–2015, we have showcased our pieces on the runways. This initiative was unlike anything we've ever done before, which is why we enjoyed it so much. We understand the stress and hassle that comes with fashion weeks, so we wanted to make this experience a little simpler for our guests, whether it’s through taking care of their transportation or by offering SOS kits that
provided refreshments and refueling in between shows. Some of those VIPs were existing friends of the brand, while others were new to the brand, so we wanted to pamper both.
Are you able to share any information on any new collections which haven’t been released as yet and if so what is the inspiration behind it?
We have numerous collections in the pipeline, but our next release will be a vibrantly bold, nature-inspired collection.
Your mother, Azza is heavily involved in the running of Azza Fahmy, what’s her role today and how does she manage to still be so relevant and integral to the brand?
Azza Fahmy remains the founder and creative director of Azza Fahmy Jewellery; her position has not changed. However, her focus has shifted in recent years to a broader role. With her many passions, she travels the globe to research and gain insights into various cultures and traditions for design inspiration; she has also established the Design Studio, The Foundation, and writes books; and so there are many different aspects that occupy her.
Supporting young women who are looking to make careers for themselves has always been at the core of Azza Fahmy. Can you share what initiatives or charities you have supported and where some of these young women are today?
In 2013, the Design Studio by Azza Fahmy (DSAF) was founded. It is the first jewelry design and making school in Egypt, and its objectives are to help individuals develop their creative skills and gain a greater comprehension of the intricate nature of jewelry making. With 80% female enrollment, many DSAF alumni have gone on to become instructors, designers, brand owners, etc., continuing the path of expanding knowledge surrounding this wonderful profession. DSAF also works directly with the community through continuous activities with the Azza Fahmy Foundation (AFF), which provides support to underprivileged and disadvantaged Egyptian adolescents with a focus on empowering women. Gloria Awori, a Ugandan student, encountered financial difficulties that could have prevented her from continuing her studies. The school looked after her, offering her a scholarship and free housing. She was then able to return to Uganda after finishing her two years at DSAF, where she opened a small workshop and school with the goal of imparting the knowledge she had learned at the school to others. This is just one of the many success stories; both DSAF and AFF continue to work towards the goal of preserving craftsmanship and heritage.
In Los Angeles we’ve always edged on the side of bigger is better when it comes to jewelry. What’s the most extravagant piece Azza Fahmy has created to date, when was it made and how much did it sell for?
One of the most extravagant pieces I've designed has to be the Peacock Collar, an 18kt gold and sterling silver collar with intricate lace-effect wirework that replicates the intricate artistry of the peacock’s majestic tail. It sold for EGP 225,000, which was around USD 12,700 at the time of its release in 2017.
How many people do Azza Fahmy employ today, what ratio to men vs women are there and is everyone located in Egypt?
Azza Fahmy Jewellery employs 277 individuals, some of whom are located in Egypt, London, or the GCC, with a 77% male to 23% female ratio; nevertheless, women outnumber males in high management roles, with 28 women to 20 men. In addition, there are our regional outlets, London, the Azza Fahmy Foundation, and the Design Studio by Azza Fahmy.
For any of our readers who are wanting to visit Egypt, where should they visit and what are your favorite places to eat at, shop in and stay at?
Egypt has many gorgeous spots to explore; if visiting in the winter, we recommend taking a Nile cruise down to Luxor and Aswan. A visit to the Moudira hotel in Luxor, followed by tea time at the exquisite Old Cataract hotel in Aswan, where Agatha Christie once sat and found inspiration for her novels. Finally, there's the breathtaking Adrere Amellal Ecolodge in Siwa's Oasis.
