CREATIVE UNIVERSE
U.S.A.
ITALY
LONDON
BELGIUM
WABI-SABI / BEAUTY OF IMPERFECTION
SUBVERTING TRADITION
ROCK N’ ROLL SPIRIT
Adobe Illustrator brush: 3 mm border with 4 mm ribbon
Original artwork by Balmain designer
Original artwork by Balmain designer
CONSTRUCTING A FOLDED EDGE OPENING ON METAL MESH
Summary: This opening is based on how a welt pocket is constructed but adapted to the metal mesh. When complete, from the front, you will have two smooth and seamless folded edges touching each other. On the back, you will have two layers of metal mesh linked together and secured to the wrong side of garment with no stitches. This provides reinforcement for the weight of the belt and also helps prevent the mesh from ripping, which it is susceptible to doing when on the bias.
4. To make welt bias strips, remove two rows of sequins as show. Repeat this same process 5 sequins over. Edge of mesh not used for welt strip can be used as the edge for next strip as it will have the double rings needed.
Remove these rows for next strip
8. Remove scotch tape from front side and lay opening flat against the table. Make sure the line of the sequins on both sides of the opening are folding on the exact same row and not twisting. Once this is laying smoothly and flat, re-tape opening down to hold in this position.
Important principle: In order to make metal mesh lay flat, it must be on a 45° bias. When folded on the grain line, the back of the sequins become too compressed, which causes the material have a raised edge, similar to if there was cording between the layers (see pictures). *For any folded opening to lay flat, it is necessary for the mesh on this part of the garment to be oriented on the bias. 1. Starting at beginning of intended opening, begin cutting rings at a 45° angle (cut 1 sequin vertically, cut 1 sequin horizontinally) until length of opening on pattern is achieved. Only cut rings and do not remove any sequins on the garment. The jagged edge of the cut line is filled in by the welt strips attached later.
2. From the right side of the mesh, close the opening with scotch tape. This stabilizes the material making it much easier to work with and therefore, faster to make.
5. Once strips are made, scotch tape right side of mesh to stabilize it and make it easier to work with, but do not cover the two rows of rings on one side. The prongs of the metal mesh it is being attached to will need to pass through these holes. Trim off excess tape.
Straight grain line
9. Link the outer row of circles to the prongs of the wrong side of the garment as shown. Continue all around until the perimeter of the interior welt is secured to the garment. Be sure to link circles on the same line of sequins to keep a consistent tight and smooth edge of the fold.
45° bias 6. Begin linking strip to cut edge of garment, leaving 4 sequins past the beginning . Leave these loose and free for now. This connection should be seamless when finished with each sequin on the cut edge of the garment connecting to 3 circles on the welt strip. When both sides are connected, scotch tape can be removed.
7. Once welt strips are connected to cut edge, flip edge of end of strips over and link the now touching edges together starting right after the cut edge ends. This connection is important because it gives the opening the reinforcement of two rows of sequins. Without this step, the opening is simply a cut edge in the mesh and will be more vulnerable to ripping under stress. Also, you will need to cut away the outside row of circles on each side to make the system have the same pattern as the rest of material.
FINISHED RESULT
Remove this row of circles and link strips together
Link circles to these prongs of sequins
FASHION / ACCESSORIES DESIGN CONTEST for MARVEL COMICS JOSH STEVENS & ALEXANDRA MEYNIER
COLLECTION
COLLECTION
CHAPTER 1 STORY OF THE HAND
CHAPTER 1 STORY OF THE HAND
KEY SILHOUETTE & BAG KEY SILHOUETTE & BAG CHAPTER 1 STORY OF THE HAND
CHAPTER 1 STORY OF THE HAND
17
Collection of Garment & Accessories for Disney Marvel Avengers- Josh Stevens & Alexandra Meynier- Cette création ne peut être reproduite sans l’autorisation20 de l’IFM
MAN MAN
SCRIBBLED STRAPPED SWEATER SCRIBBLED STRAPPED SWEATER
Collection of Garment & Accessories for Disney Marvel Avengers- Josh Stevens & Alexandra Meynier- Cette création ne peut être reproduite sans l’autorisation de l’IFM
WOMAN WOMAN
SCRIBBLED STRAPPED DRESS SCRIBBLED STRAPPED DRESS
TECHNICAL FILE
DESIGNERS: JOSH STEVENS / ALEXANDRA MEYNIER
IFM/DISNEY 2015
REF: SCRIBBLE dress
X
Contact IFM Valérie Praquin +33 (0)1 70 38 89 89
HARDWARE (1) 2.5 cm buckle 90 cm red grosgrain 16 cm red twill tape
0.5cm 16.5 cm red twill tape reinforcement
2 cm ribbing
Ribbing seam 2 cm from back raglan 0.5cm
1 cm topstich
2.5 cm wide grosgrain strap with buckle
1.5 cm
2 cm topstitch 1 cm
Press seam allowance to back side
Blind stitch hem
4 cm hem
Water print for body (#71)
Josh Stevens © IFM DESIGNER 2015 | Cette création ne peut être reproduite sans l’autorisation de l’IFM
TECHNICAL FILE COLLECTION 2015
PANTONE 1797 C
PANTONE 629 C
DESIGNERS: JOSH STEVENS / ALEXANDRA MEYNIER REF: SCRIBBLE dress
PANTONE 7499 C
PANTONE WHITE
Contact IFM Valérie Praquin +33 (0)1 70 38 89 89
PANTONE BLACK
Sequence of screen print layers: 1 PANTONE 629 C Placement: Top Front Order: #1
5
2 PANTONE 1797 C Placement: Front Bottom Order: #2
6
3 PANTONE 1797 C Placement: Back Bottom Order: #3
7
PANTONE 629 C
PANTONE 19-0000 Black
PANTONE 19-0000 Black
Placement: Back Bottom Order: #5
Placement: Front Bottom Order: #6
Placement: Front Bottom Order: #7
4 PANTONE 629 C Placement: Front Bottom Order: #4
8 PANTONE 11-0601White Placement: Front Bottom Left Order: #8
“Considering the Informal Luxury Lifestyle a.testoni is developing, what could be the evolution of the leather sole men's shoe for an everyday working use ?�
IN MANY CULTURES, PEOPLE ARE EXPECTED TO TAKE THEIR SHOES OFF AND PUT THEM BACK ON DURING THE DAY.... MUD-CAKED COWBOY BOOTS IN NEW MEXICO MUST BE LEFT OUTSIDE. THE VAST MAJORITY OF CITIZENS OF DUBAI REMOVE THEIR SHOES 5 TIMES A DAY TO PRAY.
TOKYO HOMES HAVE AN ENTRANCE AREA CALLED A GENKAN ( ), WHERE SHOES ARE REMOVED BEFORE ENTERING. INCORPORATING ARTISTIC INFLUENCES AND CULTURAL SENSIBILITIES FROM THESE THREE CITIES, THIS IS MY INTERPRETATION FOR WHAT IS MODERN AND RELEVANT FOR THE A. TESTONI MAN...
DUBAI
RADIATING LINES
WHITE OUTLINES
NON-LINEAR WEAVING
SANTA FE BRAIDS
SOFT UPPERS
POP OF COLOR
TOKYO
CRASHING WAVES
PURITY
FLUID MOVEMENT
Oxfords
Modello: Tokyo 3
JOSH STEVENS per A. TESTONI
Linea: Shoes Off
Josh Stevens
+33 (0)6 33 02 12 01
josh@joshstevensnyc.com
Valérie Praquin
+33 (0)1 70 38 89 89
production@ifm-paris.com
Stagione: 2015
Modello: Tokyo 3
Linea: Shoes Off
2
SUOLA
Japan
MISURA
42
Risvoltato (Pellame stretch)
teston a.
2 mm
•
20 mm
Smussato
i
TACCO
5 mm
96 mm
FINITURA
COLORE
TACCO
Cuoio
Marrone
SUOLA
Cuoio inciso
Marrone
LISSA
Dritta
Marrone
35 mm
57 mm
Folded
• a
2
Faenza
i
Slip-ons
15 mm
FORMA
. teston
Derbies
JOSH STEVENS per A. TESTONI Stagione: 2015
26 mm
15 mm Ripiegato
45 mm
Laccio cottone tondo Ø 4 mm
10 mm
78 mm
39 mm
GUARDOLO PUNTA Cucito confilo Marrone 2 3
1
1
Boots
2
2
Nappa
Blu scuro
SOTTO PIEDE
Nappa
Blu scuro
FIRMA
Embossed
A caldo
La spirale riprende le dimension di quella tradizionale di Testoni
Label stampato a caldo
20 mm
PANTONE 7697 UP
50 mm
70 mm
DESCRIZIONE
Sneakers
Marrone
FODERA
COLORE CAMPIONE:
1
2
GUARDOLO DIETRO Liscio
REF. COLORE QUANTITA
MATERIALE #1 Stretch Buffalo
Azzurro
n/a
MATERIALE #2 Buffalo
Azzurro
n/a
MATERIALE #3 Nappa
Blu scuro
n/a
ACC. #1
Occhielli (15 mm) Bronzo
ACC. #2
Lacci Ø 4 mm
Azzurro
4 (2) 70 cm
Travetta cucito a mano in pelle avvolto attraverso tre volte e poi avvolto con lo stesso filo in stessa tecnica Testoni spirale
La scarpa dovrebbe essere (o dare d’impressione di essere) in uno pezzo unico dalla talonette fino alla punta
Josh Stevens © IFM DESIGNER 2015 | Cette création ne peut être reproduite sans l’autorisation de l’IFM
Sandals
Josh Stevens © IFM DESIGNER 2015 | Cette création ne peut être reproduite sans l’autorisation de l’IFM
Iridescent cellophane pieces embroidered on black silk
Crumbled iridescent cellophane fused to white leather