Monografija općine Neum by Josip Njavro

Neum

30 godina opÄ&#x2021;ine

30th Anniversary of the Municipality

Nakladnik (Publisher):

Općina Neum

Za nakladnika (For publisher):

Đuro Obradović

Uređivački odbor (Editorial Board): Đuro Obradović, Živko Matuško, Danica Glavinić, don Ivica Puljić, Mihajlo Butigan, Slavko Katić; Vinko Bačić, Stanislav Vukorep Tekstovi (Texts):

Đuro Obradović, don Ivica Puljić, Slavko Katić, Stanislav Vukorep, Pero Marijanović, Vicko Jogunica

Lektor (Proof-reading):

Dragan Naletilić

Prijevod (Translator into English):

Slaviša Vračar

Grafički urednik (Design):

Zoran Matuško

Fotografije (Photographs):

Davorin Bulić, Dragan Ressner, Ivan Vukorep, Ćiro Raič, Slavko Katić

Tisak (Print and Binding):

Suton, Široki Brijeg

Naklada (Printing run of ):

1500 komada (copies)

Općina Neum

Cip - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Nacionalna i univerzitetska biblioteka Bosne i Hercegovine, Sarajevo 908 (497.6 Neum) NEUM - 30 godina općine / [redakcijski odbor Ivica Puljić ... [et al.] ; preveo Slaviša Vračar ; fotografije Davorin Bulić ... [et al.]. - Neum : Općina Neum, 2008. -184 str. : ilustr. 32 cm Tekst na hrv. i engl. jeziku ISBN 978-9958-9039-0-8 COBISS.BH-ID 16828678

Neum

30 godina opÄ&#x2021;ine

30th Anniversary of the Municipality

Neum, 2008.

KAZALO / TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Uvod / Introduction . .......................................................................... 7 2. Povijest neumskoga kraja / History of the Neum region ................ 10 2.1. Pretpovijest / Prehistory ............................................................... 10 2.2. Vrijeme Ilira i helenizam / The Illyrian Era and Hellenism ...... 12 2.3. Doba Rimljana / The Roman Era ............................................... 18 2.4. Neumsko područje kroz srednji vijek / The region of Neum through the Middle Ages . ............................................................ 24 2.5. Otpor Turcima / Resistance to the Ottoman Empire .................. 32 2.6. Mletačko-turski ratovi / Venetian-Turkish Wars ........................ 34 2.7. Od Požarevačkog mira 1718. do Berlinskog kongresa 1878. From the 1718 Požarevac Peace treaty to the 1878 Congress of Berlin . ...................................................................................... 38 2.8. Neumsko područje u doba Kraljevine SHS i Jugoslavije / The region of Neum during the rule of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians and as part of the former Yugoslavia . ................................................................................... 44 2.9. Domovinski rat / The War of Independence ............................... 50 3. Kulturno-povijesna i spomenička baština Cultural and historical heritage and monuments of the Municipality of Neum ....................................................................... 58 4. Prirodne znamenitosti neumskoga zaleđa Sights of nature of Neum’s hinterland . ......................................... 100 5. Razvoj gospodarstva u općini Neum Economic development of the Municipality .................................. 138 6. Društvene djelatnosti / Social activities . ........................................ 174 6.1. Odgoj i izobrazba / Education ................................................... 174 6.2. Zdravstvo / Health Care . ........................................................... 176 6.3. Kultura / Culture . ..................................................................... 176 6.4. Šport / Sport ............................................................................... 182

1. UVOD / INTRODUCTION

Općina Neum, kao jedinica lokalne samouprave, funkcionira od 1. siječnja 1978., dakle ove, 2008. godine, obilježava 30 godina postojanja. Na strmome hercegovačkom priobalju niknuo je potpuno novi grad, s oko 3500 stanovnika i s preko 6000 turističkih ležaja, s izgrađenom turističkom i ostalom infrastrukturom. Na istome području od 1924. do 1955. funkcionirala je općina Hutovo, a od 1955. do 1978. općina Čapljina. Do sredine 70-ih godina prošloga stoljeća „naselja-centri“ bili su Hutovo, Hrasno i Gradac, a na mjestu današnjega grada – Stari Neum, dva kilometra udaljen od mora. Na mjestu današnje zgrade Općine bila je Polača s dvije kuće, malo niže Koruntina isto s dvije kuće, a u priobalju su bile tri kuće za potrebe ribarske zadruge, te kućica za potrebe policije. U Starome Neumu živjelo se od ribarenja i stočarstva, u Hrasnu od stočarstva i ratarstva, u Gracu su čuvali stoku i obrađivali polja, u Hutovu je bio „ćiro“, stari uskotračni vlak koji je zapošljavao, a polje u Popovu hranilo ljude. Specifične djelatnosti kraja od Neuma prema zaleđu bile su ribarenje, paljenje klačina (vapnenica), maslinarstvo, pčelarstvo, prikupljanje ljekovitoga bilja, uzgoj vinove loze i duhana, sijanje žitarica, stočarstvo i planištarenje, kosidba sijena u Hutovu blatu, itd. Neum je danas grad, turističko naselje, općinsko središte za područje od 226 km² i oko 5000 stanovnika, jedini izlaz BiH na Jadransko more, s 24,5 km razvedene obale. Čini ga pet mjesnih zajednica: Neum, Gradac, Hutovo, Donje Hrasno i Gornje Hrasno. Razvoj Neuma zaustavio je vrlo veliku migraciju domicilnog pučanstva u susjedna mjesta i gradove u Republici Hrvatskoj, pa i dalje. Istodobno je ubrzano preseljenje mlađe populacije u općinsko središte, tako da je trenutačna dobna struktura u zaleđu uglavnom staračka. Osnova izgradnje i razvoja grada bila je dosta kvalitetno riješena infrastruktura. Vodoopskrba, od 1982. godine, ide regionalnim vodovodom Gabela – Hutovo – Neum, te reaktiviranim lokalnim vodovodom Blace, od 2004. godine. Odvodnja otpadnih voda djelomično je riješena izgradnjom dijela regionalnoga kanalizacijskog sustava Komarna – Neum – Mljetski kanal. Elektroopskrba je dugoročno kvalitetno riješena, a prometna povezanost tek treba biti riješena izgradn-

jom autoceste od Ploča prema Dubrovniku te magistralnog puta Neum – Stolac. Telekomunikacijske veze već optimalno funkcioniraju. Izgradnjom infrastrukture omogućen je intenzivan razvoj gospodarstva, posebno izgradnjom hotelsko-turističkih sadržaja ukupnog kapaciteta 1810 turističkih ležaja („Neum“ je izgrađen 1977., „Sunce“ 1993., „Zenit“ 1987., „Stella“ 1989. godine). Istodobno su razvijane turizmu komplementarne gospodarske grane – trgovina, poljogospodarstvo, marikultura, graditeljstvo, manji industrijski kapaciteti, uslužne djelatnosti i obrtništvo. Usporedo s tim razvijala se i oblast društvenih djelatnosti (izobrazba, zdravstvo, kultura i šport), upotpunjujući tako sve što treba jednomu gradu. Trideset godina ovoga grada i općine posve je dovoljan razlog za pripremu i izdavanje monografije. Sadržajno, ona obuhvaća fotografije i tekstove koji se odnose na zemljopisni položaj, pučanstvo, povijest, prirodne ljepote, gospodarstvo, poljogospodarstvo, zdravstvo, izobrazbu, kulturu, kulturno-povijesnu i spomeničku baštinu, turističke znamenitosti, šport, itd. Koncipirana je kao svojevrsni priručnik mnogostruke namjene, s mnogo informacija koje nitko do sada nije sakupio na jednome mjestu i objavio u ovome obliku. Većina autora koji su pisali za monografiju nisu povjesničari koji bi mogli stručno obraditi određena područja; jednostavno, oni su poznavatelji svoga zavičaja čije su značajke pisanom riječju i fotografijom uokvirili u jedinstveno djelo. Ova monografija, jednostavno nazvana Neum, ima ambiciju otrgnuti od zaborava nedavnu prošlost i pokazati sadašnjost općine. Kao takvu, dajemo je javnosti da upotpuni sliku o našem kraju, zavičaju, nudimo je slučajnim namjernicima i našim dragim gostima, žiteljima Neuma i onima čiju su korijeni odavde, osobito mladima koji žive ovdje ili su rasuti širom svijeta, da bolje upoznaju svoj kraj. Načelnik općine Neum Đuro Obradović, dipl. oec.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Općina Neum / The Municipality of Neum

The Municipality of Neum has been in function as a local-self-government unit since 1 January 1978, and thus this 2008 year it is celebrating 30 years of existence. Situated on a steep Herzegovina littoral, a completely new town has emerged, with approximately 3,500 residents and a capacity of more than 6,000 tourist beds, including its constructed tourist and other infrastructure. From 1924 to 1955, in the same region functioned the Municipality of Hutovo, whereas from 1955 to 1978 the Municipality of Čapljina. By the mid-70s of the last century „settlements-centers“ were Hutovo,

Hrasno and Gradac, whereas at the location of the current town – there was Stari Neum (the Old Neum), two kilometers away from the sea. At the location of nowadays’ Municipal Administration building existed a Town Palace (local Polača from Latin palatium, pl. palatia) with two houses, and a bit downhill a Courthouse (local Koruntina) also with two houses, whereas in the littoral there were three houses erected for the purposes of a fish farm cooperative and a small house used for the police purposes. Residents of Stari Neum made their living out of fishery and cattle-breeding, people in Hrasno did it by cattle-breeding and agriculture, while in Gradac

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

they raised cattle and cultivated fields, and in Hutovo there was a „ćiro“, a narrow-gauge steam-engine train, which provided employment, while the field in Popovo provided food for the people. Distinctive activities of the region on the stretch from Neum to the hinterland were fishery, lighting of lime-making furnaces (limekilns), olive-growing, bee-keeping, collection of medicinal herbs, growing of grape vine and tobacco, sowing of cereals, cattlebreeding and taking flocks and herds to high-mountains for summer grazing, haymaking in Hutovo Blato, etc. Today Neum is a town, a tourist settlement, a municipal center for the area of 226 square kilometers and it has around 5,000 residents; it is also the only access of Bosnia and Herzegovina to the Adriatic Sea, with 24.5 kilometers of well-indented coastline. It comprises the following five local communities: Neum, Gradac, Hutovo, Donje Hrasno and Gornje Hrasno. Development of Neum has prevented a substantial migration of domicile population to neighboring places and towns in the Republic of Croatia and elsewhere. At the same time, migration of the young population has increased towards the municipal center; so, the current age structure in the hinterland is for the most part comprising elderly population. The crux of construction and development of this town was based on a high quality and well-developed infrastructure. Since 1982 the town water-supply has been a part of the regional water-supply system Gabela–Hutovo– Neum, as well as of the reactivated local water-supply system Blace since 2004. Wastewater drainage is partly done through the construction of one part of regional sewerage system Komarna–Neum–the Mljet Channel. Power supply is well-structured in the long run, whereas its traffic connections are yet to be solved through the construction of a highway from Ploče to Dubrovnik and Neum–Stolac main road. Telecommunication connections are already functioning optimally. Construction of the infrastructure has enabled inten-

sive development of its economy, and it was particularly the construction of hotel and tourist facilities whose total capacity reaches the number of 1810 tourist beds („Neum Hotel“ was built in 1977., „Sunce Hotel“ in 1993, „Zenit Hotel“ in 1987, „Stella Hotel“ in 1989). At the same time, some tourism-complementary branches of the economy have been developed – such as trade, agricultural economy, mariculture/ aquaculture, civil engineering and architecture, small industrial capacities, service industries and crafts. Along with them, the area of social activities has also been developed (education, health care, culture and sports), thus making complete a list of everything that is indispensable for a town. Thirty years of this town and municipality are a sufficient reason to start the preparation and publication of a monograph. From the point of view of its substance, the monograph contains photos and texts relating to the geographical position, population, history, natural attractions, economy, agricultural economy, health care, education, culture, cultural-historical and monumental heritage, tourist sights, sports, etc. It is designed as a distinctive multi-purpose manual, containing a great deal of information that nobody was able to collect so far at a single point and publish it in this particular form. Most authors who wrote for purposes of this monograph are not professional historians who could address specific areas with expertise; they are simply people familiar with their native land, the land whose features they framed by printed words and photos into a unique and exceptional creation. This monograph is simply titled Neum and its ambition is to rescue from oblivion the recent past and show the present of this Municipality. As such, we are giving it to the public so that it could depict a complete picture about this part of the country, our native land, and we are offering it to chance travelers and our dear guests and residents of Neum, including also those whose origins are from this place, and in particular those young people who either live here or are scattered everywhere in the wide world, in order for them to get much better knowledge about their homeland. Mayor of Neum Municipality Đuro Obradović, B.Sc. Econ

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

2. POVIJEST NEUMSKOG KRAJA HISTORY OF THE NEUM REGION 2.1. Pretpovijest / Prehistory Blaga mediteranska klima „okitila“ je neumsko područje vječnim zelenilom. Bogatu i raznoliku floru pratila je i bogata fauna. Bogatstvo svakojake divljači, dostatne količine vode, osobito u Blacima, kao i bogatstvo života čistoga neumskog podmorja, privukli su čovjeka da se na ovim prostorima nastani već u starome kamenom dobu – paleolitiku (do 10 000 godina prije Krista). Pravo bogatstvo (još i danas neistraženih) krških špilja na neumskome širem području pružalo mu je sigurno prebivalište. O svemu tome svjedoče nalazi grubo obrađenoga kamenog oruđa, osobito s područja Moševića i Graca.

GRADAC: Sjekira od grubo obrađenog domaćeg kamena Stone ax made of a coarse-grained local stone BABIN DO: igla od kosti / Bone needle

GRADAC: Čekić iz neolitika (Zemaljski Muzej) Hammer from Neolithic (National Museum)

Nalazi iz mlađega kamenog doba – neolitika (do 3500 godina prije Krista) još su bogatiji, kako svjedoče brojni nalazi brižno obrađenoga kamenog oruđa i oružja iz šire neumske okolice, danas pohranjeni uglavnom u Zemaljskom muzeju u Sarajevu. Specifična keramika iz brončanoga doba (1800 do 1000 godina prije Krista) nalazi se na užem području Neuma, ali i u čitavome neumskom kraju. Ostatci kulture iz brončanoga i željeznog doba doista su bogati. Prije svega, čitavo neumsko područje upravo je „posuto“ brojnim gomilama različite provenijencije i karaktera. One prate sve moguće putove kroz ovo teško prohodno krško područje, ures su mnogih brdskih vrhunaca, a kao grobne piramide ovoga područja nalazimo ih velik broj i u ravnicama. Do sada je poznato na stotine pretpovijesnih naselja na području neumske općine, među kojima su brojne gradine koje prkose vremenu s naših visova. Ističu se gradina na Osoju, Vukovu klancu, Brestici, Kiševu, Gracu (osobito Malokrn), Hutovska gradina, Previšićka gradina, Trovrha, Basarića gradina, Kolojanj i druge. Sve su neumske gradine posute raznolikom keramikom, a brojni su i nalazi ručnih kamenih mlinova, omega-igala, fibula i drugih karakterističnih nalaza iz toga doba.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

VRANJEVO SELO: Prethistorijska “omega igla” Prehistoric “omega needle“

HUTOVO, Lapidarij (lapidarium) Prethistorijska stupa Prehistoric burial mound (stupa)

Mild Mediterranean climate has „adorned “the Neum region with everlasting greenery. Rich and diverse flora has been accompanied with rich fauna. Abundance of various breeds of wild game, sufficient water quantities, especially in Blace, as well as rich living forms in the intact Neum submarine world, attracted humans to settle in these areas as early as in the Old Stone Age – the Paleolithic (by around 10,000 B.C.). The genuine richness of even today not fully explored karstic grottos and caves in the wider region of Neum provided them with safe lodgings. All this is attested by archeological finds and artifacts of roughly processed and hand-made stone tools, in particular those found in Moševići and Gradac areas. Archeological finds from the New Stone Age – the Neolithic (by 3,500 B.C) are even more abundant, as it is attested by numerous finds of carefully and skillfully cut stone tools and weapons collected in the wider surroundings of Neum, today stored mostly in the National Museum in Sarajevo. Distinctive ceramics of the Bronze Age (1800 to 1000 B.C) were discovered in the more immediate region of Neum, but also in the entire Neum region. The remnants of the Bronze Age and the Iron Age cultures are extremely rich. Primarily, the entire Neum region is indeed „spread“ with numerous tumuli of different origins and characters. They follow all possible roads through this hardly accessible karstic area, they are an adornment of many hill tops. Since they are a kind of sepulchral pyramids of this region, a great number of them can also be found in the lowlands. To date, hundreds and hundreds of prehistoric settlements are known to have been located on the various sites in the Neum Municipality area, among which there are numerous stone hillforts – acropolises, known locally as gradine, that have stood the test of time on our heights. Prominent are gradinas on Osoj, Vukov klanac, Brestica, Kiševo, Gradac (particularly Malokrn), Hutovska Gradina, Previšićka Gradina, Trovrha Gradina, Basarića Gradina, Kolojanj and others. All Neum gradinas abound in diverse ceramics, and numerous are also the finds of hand-made stone grinds, omega-needles, fibulas and other typical archeological finds of artifacts from that period.

HUTOVO , DUŽI: Prethistorijski ručni mlin Prehistoric manual grinder

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

2.2. Vrijeme Ilira i helenizam The Illyrian Era and Hellenism Ostatci helenističke kulture govore da je i Neum trajno bio dio kulturne sfere jadranske obale. Ovuda je prolazilo više putnih pravaca koji su povezivali onodobna europska kulturna središta sjevera i juga, istoka i zapada. Već od pretpovijesti ovuda je išao vrlo značajan put iz doline Neretve prema istoku, a isto tako i od neumske obale prema unutrašnjosti, preko Graca i Hutova. Brojne uvale na neumskoj, lako pristupačnoj obali, služile se kao prirodne lučice, o čemu svjedoče nalazi amfora u podmorju. Tko su bili prvi stanovnici užega i širega neumskog područja, o tome nam povijesna znanost pruža neke podatke. Još u drugom tisućljeću prije Krista, u velikim seobama stigli su i na ovo područje Indoeuropljani. Njihovim miješanjem sa zatečenim stanovnicima stvarao se i ovdje novi etnički supstrat na koga će već antički pisci proširiti ilirsko ime, razlikujući ih od „pravih Ilira“ koji su živjeli južno od Drima. Pseudo-Skylakovo djelo Periplus, pisano sredinom IV. st. prije Krista, kaže za pučanstvo uz donji tok Neretve: „Ovi Iliri su iz plemena Manijaca…” Po njima se Pelješki pa i Neumski kanal zvao Manijsko more.

Neumsko područje u ilirsko doba Neum area in the Illyrian Era

Sjekira iz Željeznog doba (Muzej Neum) Iron Age Ax (Neum Museum)

VRANJEVO SELO: Posuda V/IV st. pr. Krista Vessel 5th/4th century B.C.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Remains of the Hellene culture prove that Neum was also a permanent part of the Adriatic Coast cultural sphere. A number of roads intersected this region connecting the then European cultural centers of north and south, east and west. Even since prehistoric times, a highly important road runs through this region from the Neretva River valley towards east, and also from the Neum coastal area towards the mainland, across Gradac and Hutovo. Many lagoons on the easily accessible coasts of Neum served as natural harbors, which is attested by the archeological finds of amphorae discovered on the seabed. Historians give us some information about who were the first residents of a narrower and wider region of Neum. As early as the 2nd century B.C., Indo-Europeans came to this region during the Period of Great Migrations. Their mingling with the residents who were there at the time created here also a new ethnic substrate to which the writers then extended the Illyrian name, distinguishing them from the „genuine Illyrians“ who lived south of the Drim River. Pseudo-Skylak’s work Periplus, written in the mid 4th century B.C., refers to the population living along the lower course of the Neretva River by saying that: „The people living there are the Manii, who are by race Illyrians …” It is after them that the area of the Pelješac and the Neum Channels was named Manius bay (Manius Sea).

VRANJEVO SELO: Posuda V/IV st. pr. Krista Vessel 5th/4th century B.C.

VRANJEVO SELO: Posuda iz V/IV st. pr. Krista Vessel 5th/4th century B.C.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Na prostorima od Neretve prema Boki i sjeverno bar do Popovskog polja, povijesna znanost, na temelju drugih izvora, smješta drevno pleme Plereja. Njima se pripisuje prva prava kultivacija ovoga područja. Strabon, u I. st. prije Krista, na širem području smješta uz Plereje i Ardijeje (koje su Kelti u IV. stoljeću prije Krista potisnuli preko Neretve) i Daorze: „Zatim je rijeka Naron i oko nje Daorizoi i Ardiaioi i Pleraioi kojima je blizu otok nazvan Crna Korkira (Korčula)... a Ardiaioima Faros...” Ilirska plemena stvarala su svoje države, zapravo saveze plemena. Poznato je petnaestak vladara, od kojih je znatan broj bio iz ple-

mena Ardijeja. Od njih je, svakako, najslavnija bila kraljica Teuta. Iz grčkih kolonija s obale i otoka, a osobito iz susjedne velike Narone, prodirala je onodobna mediteranska kultura i na ovo područje. O tome svjedoče brojni ostatci iz toga razdoblja. U tom pogledu vrlo je vrijedno novo nalazište na Vidića guvnu u Vranjevu Selu, koje upečatljivo potvrđuje tu iliro-grčku kulturnu sferu. Osobito su vrijedne dvije vojničke kacige, nekoliko kopalja, ali i drugi brojni ostatci (omega-igle, fibule, ukrasi, bogata keramika…) koje arheolozi smještaju na prijelazu iz V. u IV. stoljeće prije Krista.

VRANJEVO SELO: Kaciga / Helmet

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

NEUM-MUZEJ (MUSEUM): Strijelice iz raznih razdoblja Arrows from different periods

VRANJEVO SELO: Koplje V/IV st. pr. Krista Spear, 5th./4th century B.C.

PODŽABLJE Prapovjesna gomila s grobom Prehistoric tumulus (with grave)

By relying on other sources and authorities, historian scholars locate the ancient Pleraei tribe in the areas from the Neretva River to the Gulf of Boka Kotorska and up north at least as far as Popovsko Polje (Popovsko Valley). Pleraei are credited with the first genuine cultivation of this region. In the 1st century B.C., in the wider region of Neum, apart from the Plearei tribe, the ancient geographer Strabo also lists other tribes such as Aridiaei (who were pushed across the Neretva River by the Celts in the 4th century B.C.) and Daorsi: „There flows the river of Naron and around it live the Daorsi and the Ardiaei and the Plearei who are close to an island called Corkyra Nigra (Korčula)... and Ardiaei close to Pharos...” Illyrian tribes are believed to have created their own sovereign states, but in fact those were some kinds of tribal alliances. Around fifteen of their rulers are known, of

whom a considerable number was of those from the Ardiaei tribe. Most famous of them was undoubtedly Queen Teuta. Disseminated from Greek colonies on the coast and islands, and in particular from the neighboring great Narona, the then Mediterranean culture finds its way to this region too. This is attested by a great deal of artifacts and remains from that era. There is in that regard a highly valuable new archeological site in Vidića Guvno in the village called Vranjevo Selo, which affirms impressively the existence of that Illyrian-Greek cultural sphere. Particularly valuable are two soldier helmets, several spearheads, but also a great number of other remains (such as omega needles, fibula brooches, ornaments, rich ceramics, etc…), which are dated by archeologists as somewhere at the turn of the 5th and the 4th centuries B.C..

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Neobuzdana ratoborna ilirska krv narušavala je miran suživot na Jadranu te ometala nesmetanu onodobnu mediteransku trgovinu. To dovodi do brojnih ratova s kolonijama na obali i otocima, koje pozivaju u pomoć Rimljane. Za naše Ardijeje i Plereje osobito je bio sudbonosan tzv. drugi ilirsko-rimski rat 135. god. prije Krista. Tada je rimski konzul Servije Fulvije Flak došao s 10 000 pješaka i 3000 konjanika i temeljito potukao Ardijeje. Preselio ih je nekamo u unutrašnjost te im se, kao i Plerejima, gubi svaki trag. Možemo pretpostaviti da su upravo u ovim ratovima porušene i spaljene mnoge naše gradine. Među prvim

područjima na istočnoj obali Jadrana kojim su Rimljani ovladali već 135. godine prije Krista bilo je i neumsko područje. Vjerojatno je u doba spomenutih ratova neumsko područje pripalo rimskim saveznicima, plemenu Daorza, čiji se glavni grad na Ošanićima, poviše Stoca, vjerojatno zvao Daorzon. Za njih kažu stari pisci da su, s ostalim plemenima koja su u ratu stala na stranu Rima, postali „immunes“, nagrađeni i privilegirani. To ih onda dovodi do sukoba s moćnim Delmatima koji su ih, osobito 45. do 49. godine prije Krista, temeljito opustošili.

GRADAC: Fibule (Zemaljski Muzej) Fibula (National Museum)

VRANJEVO SELO: Fibule V/IV st. pr. Krista Fibulas, 5th./4th century B.C.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

GRADAC: Metalni predmeti (Zemaljski Muzej) Metal objects (National Museum))

VRANJEVO SELO: Ukras V/IV st. pr. Krista Ornament, 5th /4th century B.C.

Wild and combative Illyrian blood repeatedly disrupted the peaceful coexistence in the Adriatic and thwarted the then unimpeded Mediterranean trade. This led to a number of wars with colonies on the coast and islands, and they called Romans for help. For our Aridiaei and Plearei particularly fateful was the so-called Second Illyrian-Roman War in 135 B.C.. Then the Roman consul Servius Fulvius Flaccus came with 10,000 infantry and 3,000 mounted cavalry troops and defeated utterly the Aridiaei. He moved them somewhere inland, after which like the Plearei they disappeared without trace. We can just assume that it was exactly in these wars that many our stone hillforts – acropolises called gradinas were destroyed and burned. The Neum region was also among the first areas on the Adriatic east cost to come under the rule of Romans and so as early as 135 B.C.. It was in all probability the case that at the time of the said wars the Neum region fell to the rule of Roman allies, the tribe Daorsi, whose capital city was situated near the nowadays Ošanići, above the town of Stolac, and was called Daorson. They were said, by the ancient writers, to have become „immunes“, or awarded and privileged, along with other tribes that had sided with Rome in the times of wars. This in turn resulted in their severe conflicts with the powerful tribe of Delmati, who plundered their possessions thoroughly, in particular over the period from 49 to 45 B.C..

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

2.3. Doba Rimljana / The Roman Era Konačnim porazom Delmata u borbi s Rimljanima 9. god. poslije Krista utvrdila se rimska vlast i nad drugim ilirskim plemenima. Zavladao je tzv. rimski mir (pax Romana). Rimska vojska je kroz ove krajeve uzduž i poprijeko izgradila brojne ceste kojima su, osim vojske, promarširali i brojni trgovci donoseći ne samo trgovačku robu nego i uljudbu svake vrste. Materijalni ostatci svjedoče da su vjerojatno tada postupno nastale brojne naseobine: Zaradež, Radež, Neljetovlje, naseobine na užem neumskom području, Vranjevo Selo, Moševići, Gradac, Broćanac, Prapratnica, Hutovo… Ova je naselja povezivao putni pravac od Neuma prema unutrašnjosti. Na antičkoj mapi zvanoj Tabula Peuentigeriana ucrtan je najstariji putni pravac, koji je dijelom išao i preko područja koje pripada Neumu. Naš kraj prema Peutinger-ovoj karti III st. Neum region according to Peutinger map (Tabula Peutingeriana), 3rd century.

Rimski republikanski novac (Muzej Neum) Roman Republic money (Neum Museum)

VRANJEVO SELO: Prsten s likom Urobora Ouroborus ring

NEUM: Novac cara Maksimina 235-238 Money of Roman Emperor Maximinus Thrax i.e. Maximinus the Thracian (235 – 238)

NEUM: Novac cara Septimija Seevera (193-221) Money of Roman Emperor Septimus Severus (193 – 221)

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

VRANJEVO SELO: (Zemaljski Muzaj) (Zemaljski Muzaj)

NEUM: Amfora / Amphora

The final defeat of the Delmati in their struggle against the Romans in 9 B.C. entrenched and reinforced Roman rule over other Illyrian tribes too. Then came the period when the so-called Roman peace (pax Romana) reigned. Across these regions, the length and breadth, the Roman army constructed a great number of roads where apart from the army marched a considerable numbers of merchants bringing not only their merchandise but also civilizations of all kinds. Material remains attest that probably at that time there was a gradual establishing of a num-

ber of colonies such as: Zaradež, Radež, Neljetovlje, and also colonies situated in the narrower region of Neum, Vranjevo Selo, Moševići, Gradac, Broćanac, Prapratnica, Hutovo… These settlements were interconnected by a road route running from Neum towards the inland regions. Drawn on an ancient Roman itinerarium map, called Tabula Peutingeriana, was the oldest part of the cursus publicus or public road network, which partly ran also accross the area belonging to Neum.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Osobito značajno naselje razvilo se na području Vranjeva Sela, kako svjedoče brojni vrijedni ostatci materijalne kulture iz raznih razdoblja rimskoga doba. Nadgrobni natpis D. M. / M. VLPUS / / SEVERVS / SE VIVO SI / BI ET SUIS / FE iz Vranjeva Sela ušao je i u svjetsku zbirku Corpus iscriptionum latinarum. U Vranjevu Selu je davno pronađena kamena ostava za pepeo, kamena posuda, zatim ulomci crijepa sa žigom VVARIS i SARPIS. Ustanovljeni su temelji

više antičkih građevina koje svjedoče bar o dvije faze gradnje: starijoj (I. – III. st. po Kristu) i mlađoj (IV. – V. st.). Dragocjen je kameni stup s križem iz nedovoljno proučene kasnoantičke bazilike (V. – VI. st.). I na području samoga Neuma postoje nalazi iz rimskoga doba. Uz brojne ostatke amfora, u ulici Kralja Tomislava još postoje uzidani ostatci nadgrobnoga natpisa, od koga se može pročitati samo početak (D. M.), zatim novčić cara Septimija Severa i dr.

MUZEJ NEUM: Rimska fibula Roman fibula

MOŠEVIĆI: Stupac sa posvetnim krizevima Column with consecrational crosses

VRANJEVO SELO: Stella (Zemaljski Muzej) Stella (National Museum)

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

GRADAC: Ukrasna keramika Ornamental ceramics

VRANJEVO SELO: Posuda za pepeo (Zemaljski Muzej) Cinder-box (National Museum)

GRADAC: Keramička posuda (Zemaljski Muzej) Ceramic vessel (National Museum)

A particularly important settlement developed in the area of Vranjevo Selo, as attested by the numerous valuable remains of material culture from the various periods of the Roman era. A tombstone with the inscription D. M. / M. VLPUS / / SEVERVS / SE VIVO SI / BI ET SUIS / FE from Vranjevo Selo became part of the world’s collection Corpus iscriptionum latinarum. A long time ago, a stone-made ash cellar room was found in Vranjevo Selo, along with a stone vessel, and shreds of roof tiles with the insignia VVARIS and SARPIS. The foundations of several antique structures were established showing evidence

about at least two stages of construction: the more ancient (1st – 3rd centuries AC) and the most recent (4th – 5th centuries). Valuable is also a stone column ornamented with a cross, found in an insufficiently examined late antique basilica (5th – 6th centuries). In the region of Neum itself there are archeological finds dating from the Roman times. Together with numerous remains of amphorae, on Kralja Tomislava street there are still the walled-in remains of a tombstone inscription, of which only the initial part is legible (D. M.), and a coin of Emperor Lucius Septimus Severus was also found, etc.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Naselje u rimsko doba (I. – III. st. poslije Krista) postojalo je i na Radežu na lokalitetima Vrtovi i Zaradež (Šimrakove Kućetine). Uz ostatke zidova, osobito je važan natpis na opeci Ti. C(laudi Pans) ili: Ti. C(l. Caes. Pans.). Naselje se datira u I. – III. st. Rimsko naselje u Vranjevu Selu i Neumu arheolozi su poistovjećivali s više poznatih postaja s antičkih karata: Ad Turres, Diluntum… Samo ime Neuma predhrvatskoga je postanka i najradije bismo ga poistovjetili s municipijem „Neuense“ čiju baziliku, uz one u municipijima „Stantino“ (Ston) i “Dellon-

tino” (potvrđen na Trebinji), saborski oci dodjeljuju u Saloni 533. godine biskupiji Sarsenterensis, koja se sterala istočnom Hercegovinom i imala sjedište u Stocu. To bi onda bio prvi spomen Neuma, a značenje bi mu bilo „Novi“. Naziv je mogao nastati i od drugih termina: na grčkom npr. nemos označava krševiti brdski polušumoviti pašnjak, što odgovara području Neuma, itd. Ime se susreće i u jednome dubrovačkom dokumentu koji govori o „neumskom putu“. Inače se današnje selo Neum spominje u crkvenim knjigama tek iza 1800. godine.

Acta sabora u Saloni 533 god. Prvi spomen Neuma... Documents of Ecclesiastical Council in Salona in 533. First reference to Neum...

VRANJEVO SELO Kasnoantički križ iz bazilike Late antiquity cross from a local basilica

GRADAC: Rimski stup ugrađen u Sentića kuću Roman column embedded in Sentića house

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

NEUM MUZEJ (MUSEUM): Rimski pokrovni crijep Roman roof tile

A Roman times settlement (the 1st to the 3rd centuries AC) existed also in Radež at the sites of Vrtovi and Zaradež (Šimrakove Kućetine). Along with the remains of walls, particular importance is attributed to the inscription on an tiles and bricks Ti. C(laudi Pans) or: Ti. C(l. Caes. Pans.). This settlement dates back to the period from the 1st to the 3rd centuries. Roman settlements in Vranjevo Selo and Neum were identified by archeologists with several known stations from Roman maps: Ad Turres, Diluntum… The name of Neum itself is of pre-Croat origin and we would most readily identify with the „Neuense“ municipium, whose basilicas, together with those in the municipiums of „Stantino“ (Ston) and “Dellontino” (attested on Trebinja), were awarded by the ecclesi-

astical fathers at the Second Ecclesiastical Council in Salona 533 to the Diocese of Sarsenterensis, which spread its influence throughout East Herzegovina and had its clerical seat in the town of Stolac. This would then be the first reference to Neum, while according to it the meaning of its name would be „New“. The name could also arise from other terms: in Greek for instance nemos means a karstic highland semi-wooded pasture, which corresponds properly to the actual features of the Neum region, etc. The name is encountered in one document from Dubrovnik which relates about a „Neum road“. Otherwise, the current village of Neum is mentioned in ecclesiastical records only after 1800.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

2.4.Neumsko područje kroz srednji vijek The region of Neum through the Middle Ages Seobom naroda, osobito od konca VI. stoljeća, temeljito su razorena sva naselja na ovim prostorima. Pretpovijesna i antička naselja očuvana su samo u manje ili više teško protumačivim toponimima: uz Neum i Polača, Kiševo, Neljetovlje, Malokrn, Glimač, Hotanj, Hutovo, Crkvice, Crkvina, Kapela i dr. Hrvati su se doselili i na neumsko područje u prvoj polovici VII. stoljeća. Prema starim kronikama, nakon dolaska Hrvata Neum je bio u sastavu jedne od najslavnijih hrvatskih kneževina, Humske Zemlje, i to u njezinoj Žapskoj župi. Zahvaljujući činjenici što se biskupija Sarsenterensis spasila od propasti kojom joj je zaprijetila seoba naroda te svoje sjedište prenijela u Ston i tako se transformirala u stonsku i humsku biskupiju, Hrvati s ovoga prostora vrlo su rano došli u dodir s kršćanstvom. Uspomena na razdoblje pokrštavanja Hrvata u ovome

kraju moglo bi biti, primjerice, štovanje sv. Jurja na glavici poviše Brestice. Naime taj svetac zamjenjuje na nekim hrvatskim područjima starohrvatskoga boga groma Peruna, koji se štovao na vrhuncima. Njega u doba pokrštavanja u nekim krajevima nadomješta i sv. Ilija, primjerice vrh Žabe. Iz tog vremena vjerojatno potječe nekoliko malih crkvenih objekata: u Vranjevu Selu, na Brestici i na Crkvinama u Hutovu… Osobito je dragocjen križ s postoljem iz Vranjeva Sela, kakvi se u susjednoj Dalmaciji smještaju u razdoblje od VIII. do X. stoljeća. Isto tako i posvetna cigla s križem na Crkvinama u Hutovu. Oltarište i zidani oltar u temeljima staroga grada Hutova smješta se u šire razdoblje, sve do XI. stoljeća. Očuvani su i natpisi koji govore o srednjovjekovnom štovanju sv. Petra i sv. Barbare u Moševićima, te ruševine crkava u Dobrovu, Dubravici, Glumini i dr.

CRNULJA Vjerojatno prvotno svetište starohrvatskog Černiboga Probably the original shrine of Croat local deity Černibog

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

VRANJEVO SELO: Ranosrednjovjekovni križ iz crkvice Early Middle Ages church cross

HUTOVO Posvetni križ na crijepu iz crkvice Consecrational cross on the church roof tile

The Great Migration Period, particularly the part until the end of the 6th century, thoroughly destroyed all settlements in this part of the country. Names of prehistoric and Roman settlements were preserved only insofar as they were referring to the more or less hardly interpretable toponyms: so, apart from Neum, there remained Polača, Kiševo, Neljetovlje, Malokrn, Glimač, Hotanj, Hutovo, Crkvice, Crkvina, Kapela and the like. Croats also inhabited the Neum region in the first half of the 7th century. According to some ancient chronicles, after the arrival of Croats Neum was part of one of the most famous Croat principalities, Humska Zemlja (the Principality of Hum), and so within its Žapska zhupanat (district, parish). Thanks to the fact that the Diocese of Sarsenterensis rescued itself from the disaster under the threat of the Great Migration Period and relocated its seat to Ston, thus getting itself transformed into Ston and Hum Diocese, Croats from this area had the contact with Christianity quite early. The memory of the period of conversion of Croats to Christianity in this area could for example be veneration of St George on the peak above Brestica. Namely, in some Croat areas this Saint replaced an early Croat pagan deity - the god of thunder and lightning Perun, who was venerated on heights. The latter was at the times of conversion to Christianity in some parts of the area also replaced by St Elijah or Elias the Thunderer, and it was for example the case on the peak of Mount Žaba. It is most likely that from that time originate a few minor sacral objects: in Vranjevo Selo, on Brestica and on Crkvine in Hutovo… Particularly valuable is a pedestaled cross from Vranjevo Selo, one of the artifacts that are in the neighboring Dalmatia dated as originating from the period between the 8th and the 10th centuries. Likewise, the same applies to a consecrational brick with a cross found on Crkvine in Hutovo. The altar space and stone-walled altar embedded in the foundations of the old town of Hutovo are dated as originating from a longer period all until the 11th century AD. Some inscriptions indicating the Middle Age worship of St. Peter and St. Barbara in Moševići and the debris of churches in Dobrovo, Dubravica, Glumina, etc. are also preserved.

HUTOVO Ostaci kasnoantičke i ranosrednjovjekovne crkvice Remains of a Late Antiquity and Early Medieval church

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Ratovi koje je hrvatska država, sa svojim kneževinama, vodila s Bizantskim Carstvom i Mlečanima na moru te s Bugarima na kopnu, ostavili su tragove i na ovome području. I Srbi su prilično rano počeli pokazivati zanimanje za širenje, osobito u drugoj polovici XII. st. kad veliki župan Nemanja širi srpsku državu i na primorske zemlje. Srpska vladavina nije bila ni stabilna ni dugotrajna. Opirala joj se stara humska vlastela uz pomoć hrvatskih velikaša pa i Dubrovnika, komu knez Andrija obećava “da ne pridemo na vas’ s vašim’ vragom’” misleći na srpskoga kralja. U povelji kneza Andrije susrećemo i potpis njegova velikaša Hrvatina Turbića, po komu vjerojatno nosi ime susjedno Trubino Brdo, ne odviše daleko od Neuma. U Humskoj Zemlji neposredni gospodari bili su i Nelipići, podložnici bribirskih knezova. Godine 1304. hrvatski velikaš Mladen Šubić zove se: „Mladen drugi Hrvata i Bosne ban i zemlje Hum opći gospodar.“ Tu titulu nasljeđuje godine 1322. bosanski ban Stjepan II. Kotromanić: „Mi gospodin’ Stefan, po milosti Božioi

ban’ Bosni i Usori i Soli i gospodin’ homskoi zemli...“ Otada je neumsko područje s čitavom Humskom Zemljom uglavnom u sastavu bosanske države. Dubrovčani koriste novonastalu političku nestabilnost te se uključuju u građanski rat u susjedstvu protiv Branivojevića (po kojima, kako misle neki, možda nosi ime Vranjevo Selo). Dobili su dobar dio njihovih posjeda te 1326. zauzeli poluotok Pelješac sa Stonom. Bosanski ban i car Dušan im to ozakoniše poveljama, uz veliku novčanu naknadu i jednom i drugom. Ban Stjepan je udao svoju sestru Katarinu za humskoga kneza Nikolu, da bi ga čvrsto vezao uza sebe. Nikolin sin na stećku ponosno ističe da je banov nećak. Već se Nikolini sinovi Vladislav i Bogiša po njemu zovu Nikolići. Oni na grob roditeljima postaviše stećak koga su, nažalost, očuvani samo fragmenti koji jasno spominju samo Vladislava i majku mu Katarinu. Na nadgrobniku Vladislavova sina Petra uklesan je uz natpis i grb Nikolića.

Humska vlastela (među njima i Hrvatin Turbić s Neumskog područja) u povelji kneza Andrije Hum noblemen (among them also Hrvatin Turbić from Neum region) in the charter of Duke Andrija

Military campaigns launched and wars waged by the medieval Croatian State, with the assistance of its principalities, against the Byzantine Empire and the Venetians on sea and against the Bulgarians on land, had an effect also on this particular area. Serbs started showing their expansion interests rather early, in particular in the second half of the 12th century when the Grand Prince Stefan Nemanja expanded the Serb State westward to put the coastal lands under his rule. The Serb reign was neither stable nor longlasting. It was opposed by the old Hum nobility (aristocracy) that was assisted by Croat peers and lords and Dubrovnik itself, to which Duke Andrija makes promises “not to come up on you with your Devil’” referring thereby to Serb King. In the Charter of Duke 26

Andrija we can even see the signature of his liege lord Hrvatin Turbić, after whom probably the neighboring hill of Trubino Brdo was named, which is not too far from Neum. Immediate rulers in the Land of Hum were also the Nelipići lords, subjects of the Bribirian dukes. In 1304, the Croat nobleman Mladen Šubić is called: „Mladen II, of Croats and Bosnia banus (governor) and of the Land of Hum the main lord.“ This title was succeeded in 1322 by the Bosnian banus Stjepan II Kotromanić: „We, Lord Stefan, by mercy of God, banus of Bosnia and Usora and Soli and the ruler of the Land of Hum...“ Since then, the Neum region, along with the entire Land of Hum, became part of Bosnian State by and large.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Dubrovnik then took advantage of the newly created political instability and got involved in a civil war in the neighborhood against the Branivojević lords (a feudal nobility family after whose family name, some believe, Vranjevo Selo perhaps got its own name). Dubrovnik got a lion share of their estates and in 1326 it occupied the Peninsula of Pelješac along with the city of Ston. Bosnian Banus and Czar Dušan made this legal by drawing up charters, after either of them had received a great deal of financial support in return for such legalization. Banus Stjepan married his sister Katarina to Nikola, the Prince of Zahumlje (Zachlumia), in order to tie him up firmly to his will. On his

tombstone, Nikola’s son points out with pride that he was the Banus’s nephew. Even Nikola’s sons Vladislav and Bogiša took the family name Nikolić coined after the banus’s first name. On the graves of their parents, they raised a stećak tombstone, of which unfortunately only shreds were preserved clearly referring only to Vladislav and his mother Katarina. The tombstone of Vladislav’s son Petar has also a coat of arms of the Nikolić noblemen family carved into it along with the inscription. a medieval tombstone made of hand-cut stone with engraved motifs of everyday life

VRANJEVO SELO Grb i zastava vlastele Nikolića Coat of arms and flag of Nikolić noblemen

Stećak iz Vranjeva Sela danas pohranjen u Zemalskom muzeju u Sarajevu Stećak from Vranjevo Selo, today stored in the National Museum in Sarajevo

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Nikolin sin Vladislav posljednji se put spominje 1363. godine. Njegovu suprugu Stanislavu s djecom Petrom, Vukoslavom (Vukosavom) i Milišom Dubrovčani 1392. primaju među svoje građane. Dubrovački kroničar Rastić (Resti) kaže za popovskoga kneza Vukoslava Nikolića da je godine 1396. poslao skupocjeno ljekovito vino ostrogonskom nadbiskupu, kad se ovaj razbolio u Dubrovniku dok je bio u pratnji kralja Sigismunda. Godine 1399. kralj Ostoja, u nestašici novca, prodaje Dubrovčanima Primorje pa i dio Zažablja („giupa giapscho“), s čime se nije slagala domaća vlastela, osobito Vukoslav Nikolić. Da bi ga udobrovoljio da im i on potvrdi zemlje koje su im darovali „kralj i

baroni Bosne“, dubrovački senat ga bogato obdaruje. Svoju vlast nad Primorjem utvrdiše Dubrovčani tek 1405. godine. Granica prođe užim neumskim područjem, dokumenti kažu da teče: „ot Kurila deri prijeko Imotice do sela, koe se imenuje Dlži“. Ta je granica označena uklesanim križevima u živu stijenu koji se i danas vide na području između Vranjeva Sela i Duži, nedaleko od Nikolića dvora. Početkom XV. stoljeća uspostavljena je carina u Zablatku, na području Hutova. Na inzistiranje Dubrovčana ukinuo ju je kralj Ostoja 1418. godine. Osim naziva carske kućetine uspomenu na ovo razdoblje čuva i glasoviti Radovčev natpis koji se danas čuva u lapidariju pred župnom crkvom u Hutovu.

HUTOVO Natpis carinika Radovca u živoj stijeni: Ase piše Radovac’ Vukanović’ kui znah’ carinu u veovode i dog’ mu ne sgriših’ prijatele ne izgubih’ Stone-carved inscription by a customs clerk, Radovac: “Here writes Radovac Vukanović, who knew to administer customs for Duke, and as long as I did not do any wrong on him I did not lose friends’

DRŽAVNI ARHIV DUBROVNIK (DUBROVNIK STATE ARCHIVES) Dubrovačko vijeće piše 1391 onima svojima koji se vraćaju “viam Neumarum”(neumskim putem). Prvi sigurni spomen Neuma. Dubrovnik Senate (Consilium Rogatorum) writes in 1391 to their people who were returning “viam Neumarum”(on Neum’s road). First authentic credible to Neum.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

GLUMINA Nekropola stećaka na Međugorju / Necropolis of stećaks in Međugorje

Nikola’s son Vladislav was last mentioned in 1363. His wife Stanislava, with their children Petar, Vukoslav (Vukosav) and Miliša, were accepted by Dubrovnik in 1392 as their citizens. Dubrovnik chronicler Rastić (Resti) says for the Popovo Count Vukoslav Nikolić that in 1396 he dispatched a load of precious medicinal vine to Ostrogon Archbishop, after the Archbishop fell ill in Dubrovnik where he was in the entourage of King Sigismund. Back in 1399 King Ostoja, falling short of money, sells the Littoral (coastal area) and also part of Zažablje („giupa giapscho“) to Dubrovnik, with which the local peers disagreed, especially Vukoslav Nikolić. In order to mollify him to confirm them the award of the lands they got as a gift from „the King and barons of Bosnia“, Dubrovnik Senate bestowed upon him rich presents.

Dubrovnik dominion reinforced its reign over the Littoral only in 1405. The boundary ran along a narrower strip of the Neum region, the documents say that it runs: „from Kurila right accross Imotica to the village which is called Dlži“. That border was marked with crosses carved in the rocks and these crosses can be seen even today in the area between Vranjevo Selo and Duži villages, not far from Nikolić palace. In early 15th century, the customs administration was established in Zablatak, on the territory of Hutovo. On the insistence of Dubrovnik, it was terminated by King Ostoja in 1418. Apart from the name carske kućetine (grand imperial houses), the memory of this period is also preserved by the renowned inscription which is kept today in a lapidarium in the front of the parish church in Hutovo.

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Veliki bosanski vojvoda Sandalj Hranić, tvorac buduće Hercegovine, koristi dinastičke sukobe na bosanskom kraljevskom dvoru a osobito Turke da posve ovlada humskom vlastelom. U borbu uvlači i Nikoliće pa je tako knez Vukoslav poginuo 1403. u bitci u Stonu. Dubrovčanima je očito bio poznat nezavidan položaj Nikolića pa je Vijeće umoljenih dopustilo njegovu sinu Grguru da mu na grobu u Stonu postavi ploču (stećak). Grgur je 1426. od Dubrovčana tražio zidare da mu sagrade crkvu. Vjerojatno je to grudina uz nekropolu koju puk zove Kapela. O Vladislavovu sinu Petru, čiji se nadgrobni natpis nalazi u Vranjevu Selu, najmanje se zna. Miliša 1415. moli Dubrovčane da se pred Turcima skloni na njihov teritorij. Dubrovčani daju dozvolu 1435. godine „udovici Miliše Nikolića“ da se može skloniti na njihov teritorij. Šireći svoju apsolutnu vlast Humskom Zemljom, vojvoda Sandalj nije prezao ni pred čim. Grgur se pokušava riješiti Sandaljeva gospodstva, što je bilo vrlo opasno jer se Sandalj nije susprezao pozvati u pomoć i Turke. Građanskim ratom u Bosni od 1418. do 1421. Grgur je pao u nemilost i sklanja užu obitelj na području Dubrovnika. Dubrovčani

ga kasnije pomiriše sa Sandaljom. Po dubrovačkom svjedočanstvu, Sandaljevi pristaše „i s njimi Turci... potrše dole Slivno i staše na medji našoj u primorju“, što se odnosi na Nikolića posjede. Po Sandaljevoj smrti godine 1435., vlastela se ne usuđuje oprijeti ni njegovu sinovcu hercegu Stjepanu. U metežu i u strahu od Turaka, koje je Stjepan pozvao u pomoć, opet je Grgur tražio utočište u Dubrovniku. Njegovi sinovi su Vuk i Vukašin. Vukašina su Mlečani u ratu s hercegom zarobili kod Skadra 1442. godine. Iz ropstva se, uz pomoć Dubrovčana, otkupio. Pod pritiskom hercega Stjepana Nikolići gube svoju staru slavu, a osobito dolaskom Turaka. Osim Vukoslavića (Vukosavići) korijene od Nikolića vjerojatno vuku i neke grane roda Grgurevići. Milišiće susrećemo u Popovu, a špilja Milišića peć u Žabi potvrđuje predaju da su se Bronzići odnosno Burđelezi a današnji Obadi, doista prezivali Milišići. Ipak, nismo sigurni koliko ih se može vezati uz kneza Milišu. Također se ne može dokučiti imaju li kakvu krvnu vezu s Nikolićima preko prezimena Grgurević i glasoviti Šimraci, čije stare dvore nalazimo u Vranjevu Selu.

DRŽAVNI ARHIV DUBROVNIK Knez Grgur Nikolić 1426 god. moli Dubrovčane zidare da mu sagrade crkvu Duke Grgur Nikolić in 1426 implores Dubrovnik masons to build him a church

GRADAC-PODŽABLJE Natpis nad grobnicom Nikolića- Vukoslavića (natpis pisao Matijaš) Inscription over a tomb of Nikolić-Vukoslavić (written by Matijaš)

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VRANJEVO SELO Jedno od brojnih obitavališta glasovitog roda Šimraci One of numerous abodes of a renowned noble family Šimrak

The Great Bosnian Duke Sandalj Hranić, the creator of the future Herzegovina, took advantage of the Bosnian Royal Court dynastic strife, and also the Turks in particular, in order to fully subdue the aristocracy of Hum to his authority. He also dragged into this struggle the Nikolić family of feudal rulers, so Duke Vukoslav died in 1403 in the battle of Ston. The authorities of Dubrovnik were apparently familiar with the awkward position of the Nikolić feudal noblemen, so the Consilium Rogatorum or the Senate allowed his son Grgur to erect a tombstone (stećak) on his late father’s burial place in Stone. In 1426 Grgur asked from Dubrovnik authorities to assign him some masons to build himself a church. This is probably the burial mound alongside the necropolis called Kapela (Chapel) by the people today. Least is known about Vladislav’s son Petar, whose tombstone is in Vranjevo Selo. In 1415 Prince Miliša implored the Dubrovnik authorities to allow him to take refuge in their territory from the Turks. Dubrovnik gave its permission in 1435 to „the widow of Miliša Nikolić“ to take refuge in their territory. While expanding his absolutist reign over the Land of Hum, Duke Sandalj stopped at nothing. Grgur attempted to get rid of Sandalj’s lordship, which was extremely dangerous because Sandalj did not even hesitate to turn to Turks for help. After the civil war in Bosnia that was waged from 1418 to 1421, Grgur fell into disfavor and sought refuge for his close family in the territory of Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik authorities

later helped to reconcile him with Sandalj. According to a testimony of Dubrovnik authorities, Sandalj’s followers „and the Turks in concert with him... crushed down the town of Slivno and stood there near our border on the coast “, referring thus to the estates of the Nikolić noble family. After Sandalj died in 1435, the nobility did not dare to resist either his nephew Herzeg (duke) Stjepan. In the turmoil and in fear of Turks, to whom Stjepan had turned for help, Grgur again sought refugee in Dubrovnik. His sons were Vuk and Vukašin. The Vukašin was taken prisoner near Skadar by the Venetians in their war with Herzeg in 1442. Supported by Dubrovnik, he paid ransom for himself in order to be released from captivity. Under the pressure of Herzeg Stjepan, the Nikolić noble family lost their former fame, and especially after the Turks came there. In addition to the Vukoslavić (Vukosavić) noble family, perhaps some branches the Grgurević family may also have their roots in the Nikolić family. We encounter the Milišić family in Popovo Polje, and the cave of Milišića Peć on Mount Žabe attests the claims of oral tradition that last name of the Bronzić family or the Burđelez family, today’s Obad family, had indeed been Milišić in the remote past. Still, we are not sure how they can be related to Knez (Duke) Miliša. Also, it cannot be discerned whether the renowned Šimrak family is in any way related by blood with the Nikolić family through the last name Grgurević, whose old palace we find in Vranjevo Selo.

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2.5. Otpor Turcima / Resistance to the Ottoman Empir Turci su ovo područje više puta harali na poziv vojvode Sandalja i hercega Stjepana. Počevši od pada Bosne 1463. i 1464. godine pomalo trajno zauzimaju dio po dio Hercegovine. Osvajanja ipak nisu išla glatko, ušće Neretve i njegov okoliš s utvrdom Košem zauzimaju tek 1490. godine. U prvim turskim dokumentima susrećemo spomen Kleka gdje je bila uspostavljena „Skela od Zažablja“ za sol i žito koja je svake godina izdavana u zakup. Ovoj se skeli gubi značenje domalo nakon pada Koša. U prvome turskom popisu pučanstva susrećemo neumska sela Radež, Bresticu, Moševiće, Dobrovo, Gradac, Žukovice, Drijen, Prapratnicu... s kršćanskim pučanstvom. Dobar dio pučanstva je pred Turcima izbjegao na otoke i u druge još neosvojene krajeve. Teško se odmicalo od svojih domova vrteći se uz samu granicu i povremeno „uskačući“ do svojih negdašnjih ognjišta. Uskoro uskočki pokret razvija i trajne prodore na područje pod Turcima. Zažablje, a posebno primorje područja Neuma, Kle-

ka i Slivna, najizloženiji je kraj hajdučko-uskočkim upadima tijekom XVI. stoljeća. Uskočki prodori osobito su bili krvavi za tzv. Dugoga rata (1593. – 1606.), kad se za pučanstvo Zažablja zauzimaju kod pape i bečkoga cara glasoviti hrvatski jezikoslovac biskup Faust Vrančić i splitski dominikanac Daniel, koji 1598. ovako piše papi o pučanstvu Zažablja: „Preblaženi Oče, (oni) su veoma dobri kršćani i drže pravu rimsku vjeru, a župnik im je jedan dubrovački svećenik jer oni graniče s Dubrovčanima, i kada vide nekog svećenika u svojoj mu se jednostavnosti skoro klanjaju...“ U ovom pismu izričito se spominju ova katolička naselja na širem neumskom području: Vidonje, Gradac, Broćanac, Prapratnica, Hutovo, Glumina, Zelenikovac, Hotanj, Radetići, Živa, Dubravica, Grabovica, Moševići, Kiševo, Brestica, Radež i Vranjevo Selo. Skupa s pučanstvom Popova, narod Zažablja se stavlja 1604. pod okrilje cara Rudolfa II. (1576. – 1612.) i zove ga, kao nositelja hrvatsko-ugarske krune, svojim „svijetlim kraljem“.

Dubrovački kroničari zapisali su slavlje 1525 god. u Hutovu Dubrovnik chronicles wrote an account of the holy mass in 1525 in Hutovo

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GRADAC Crkva svete Ane iz 1617 god. / St Anne’s Church from 1617

The Ottoman Empire ravaged this area several times at the invitation of Duke Sandalj and Herzeg Stjepan. Starting from the fall of Bosnia in 1463 and 1464, they were permanently occupying Herzegovina piece by piece. Yet these conquests were not made without difficulties and they occupied the estuary of the Neretva River and its surroundings with the redoubt Koš only in 1490. In the first Turkish documents, we encounter clear references to Klek where „Skela od Zažablja“ (the ferry of Zažablje) was established for transportation of salt and cereals, and it was leased every year. This ferry lost its importance soon after the fall of Koš redoubt. In the first Turkish census of population we encounter some references to Neum villages Radež, Brestica, Moševići, Dobrovo, Gradac, Žukovice, Drijen, Prapratnica... with Christian population. Major part of the population fled before the Turks and took refuge from them on islands and other yet unconquered areas. They could hardly move away from their homes, lingering alongside the very border and „jumping in“ occasionally to pay visit to their former hearths. As a result, it was not before long that the Uskok movement developed and the bands of uskoks conducted permanent raids into the territory under the Turks. (The uskoks were fugitives from Croatia, Herzegovina and Bosnia engaged in guerilla warfare

against the Ottoman Empire, and etymologically the word uskok means the same as above, the one who “jumps in” or the one who ambushes). Zažablje, and in particular coastlands regions of Neum, Klek and Slivno, were the most exposed areas to Uskok raids during 16th century. The uskok raids were particularly bloody during the so-called Long War (1593– 1606), when the renowned Croatian linguist Bishop Faust Vrančić and Splitborn Dominican Daniel intervened with the Pope and the Viennese Emperor on behalf of the residents of Zažablje, who in 1598 wrote to the Pope about the population of Zažablje: „Venerable Father, (they) are very good Christians and maintain the genuine Roman faith, and their parish priest is one minister from Dubrovnik since they border on Dubrovnik, and when they see some minister they bow low almost obsequiously in all their simplicity...“ In this letter, there is an explicit mention of these Catholic settlements in the wider region of Neum: Vidonje, Gradac, Broćanac, Prapratnica, Hutovo, Glumina, Zelenikovac, Hotanj, Radetići, Živa, Dubravica, Grabovica, Moševići, Kiševo, Brestica, Radež and Vranjevo Selo. Together with the inhabitants of Popovo, in 1604 the people of Zažablje subdued to the authority of Emperor Rudolf II. (1576– 1612) and called him their „illustrious King“ as the bearer of the Croat-Hungarian crown.

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2.6. Mletačko - turski ratovi / Venetian-Turkish Wars Od 1645. do 1669. bjesnio je krvavi Kandijski rat. God. 1651. doplovilo je u Neum i Bistrinu na 18 lađa oko 300 uskoka pod vodstvom harambaše Kulišića (na koga je uspomena Kulišića kamen pod današnjim hotelom „Neum“). Jedno izvješće u rimskom arhivu posebno naglašava stradanja 1645. godine kad su uskoci popalili naše područje, a narod spašavao goli život krijući se po pećinama. Biskup Scipion de Martinis se 1665. godine tuži da su mu hajduci u suradnji s Mlečanima posve uništili biskupiju. I nakon mira nastavljaju se neprekidni uskočki prodori i stradanje pučanstva ovoga kraja sve do novoga, još krvavijega, Morejskoga ili Bečkog rata (1683/4. – 1699). U početku je glasoviti Nikola Nonković iz Broćanca, kao serdar nad 30 sela i zapovjednik nad više od 700 ljudi, uime velikog vezira držao stražu na Kamenicama protiv uskoka. Kad je 1687. general Cornaro došao s 4000 vojnika, pristade on uz Mlečane, što je izazvalo Turke da spale ovo područje. NEUM Ostaci mletačke utvrde u Jazini Remains of a Venetian fort in Jazina

HUTOVO,Lapidarij Ostaci iz vremena mletačko-turskih ratova Remains from the times of Venetian-Turkish Wars

From 1645 to 1669 raged a bloody Candian War. In 1651 around 300 uskoks sailed in Neum and Bistrinu on board 18 ships, headed by harambaša (chieftain) Kulišić (in memory of whom there remains the Kulišić stone under the nowadays Neum Hotel). One report found in Roman archives makes special reference to hardships in 1645, when the uskoks burnt down our part of the country, while the people were attempting to save their bare lives by hiding in caves. In 1665, Bishop Scipion de Martinis complains that, in cooperation with the Venetians, the uskoks destroyed his diocese completely. Even after a period of peace, the uninterrupted uskok raids went on and hardships for the population of this area continued until the new, much bloodier, Morean or Viennese War (1683/4 – 1699). In the beginning, the renowned Nikola Nonković from Broćanac, appointed as serdar (commander-in-chief) of 30 villages and the commander of more then 700 men, was on guard duty against the uskoks in Kamenice on behalf of the Great Vizier. When in 1687 General Cornaro arrived with 4000 troops, he sided with the Venetians, which provoked the Turks to burn down this region.

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HUTOVO-Stari grad Na antičkim i srednjovjekovnim korijenima Mlečani su izgradili jaku utvrdu Hutovo. Turci su je također prilagođavali svojim potrebama a početkom XIX. stoljeća Hutovo je bilo sjedište kapetanije On the antiquity and medieval foundations the Venetians built a strong fort of Hutovo. The Turks also adjusted it to their needs, but in early 19th century Hutovo became the seat of the Captaincy.

HUTOVO-Stari grad U najdubljim temeljima zidina otkopan je oltar In the deepest foundations of the walls ruins an altar has been unearthed

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Mlečani su osobito cijenili Nonkovićeve vojnike, koje su zvali „hrvatske jedinice“. Godine 1690./1691. je i oko 6000 Turaka opsjelo Smrdan u blizini Neuma, a obranilo ga je samo 57 branitelja. Nonkoviće Mlečani nagrađuju povjeravajući im svoje novoizgrađene kule u Slivnu i Kleku. Dubrovačka Republika se silno bojala sjedinjenja mletačkih posjeda u Neretvi i Boki dubrovačkim zaleđem, pa su uspjesi u spomenutim ratovanjima bili poništeni. Karlovačkim mirom iz 1699., područje Neuma i Kleka postaje tampon-zonom između Dubrovačke i Mletačke Republike „kopnom do mora“. Godine 1714. izbio je opet rat između Mlečana i

Turaka (Mali rat). Mlečani su ponovno oslobodili Zažablje i Popovo, ali su ih Požarevačkim mirom iz 1718. godine morali opet vratiti Turcima. Naše kopneno područje od tada ostaje trajna tampon-zona između Mlečana i Dubrovčana, a na moru je Turcima bilo zabranjeno „držanje i najmanjih barki i obavljanje bilokakve pomorske djelatnosti“. Mlečani su u proteklima vremenima i na našem području podigli više utvrda. I danas je poprilično očuvana ona u Jazini. Stara utvrda u Hutovu je proširena i dobro utvrđena, dobivši izgled utvrđenoga grada. U grad se smjestila mletačka vojska. Don Jure Sunožić je predvodio misna slavlja.

Jedna od brojnih mletačkih karata, Venezia 1780 ,koja prikazuje i neumsko područje One of numerous Venetian maps, Venezia 1780, also showing the area of Neum

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Jedna od brojnih mletačkih karata, Venezia 1784; koja prikazuje i neumsko područje One of numerous Venetian maps, Venezia 1780, also showing the area of Neum

The Venetians highly appreciated Nonković’s troops, calling them „Croat formations“. In 1690/1691, around 6,000 Turks besieged the place of Smrdan near Neum, but the place was defended successfully by only 57 defenders. The Nonković family was rewarded by the Venetians, who entrusted the family with their newly-constructed castles in Slivno and Klek. Respublica Ragusina or the Republic of Dubrovnik had an immense fear of unification of Venetian estates in Neretva and Boka bay with Dubrovnik hinterland, so the successful outcomes of the said wars were undone. As a result of the Karlovac Peace treaty in 1699, the region of Neum and Klek became a buffer-zone between the Republic of Dubrovnik and the Venetian Republic „by land towards the sea “. In 1714 another war broke out between the Venetians

and the Turks (the so-called Small War). The Venetians liberated Zažablje and Popovo again, but, as a result of the Požarevac Peace treaty in 1718, they had to restore them to Turks again. Since then, our mainland area remains a permanent buffer-zone between the Venetians and the dominion of Dubrovnik, whereas on the sea the Turks were not allowed „to keep even the smallest boats and carry out any maritime activity whatsoever“. In the past times, the Venetians built several redoubts in our part of the country too. Even today the one raised in Jazina is still well-preserved. The old redoubt in Hutovo was enlarged and solidly fortified, taking on appearance of a fortified town. The Venetian army settled in the town. Father Jure Sunožić was the priest who led the Holy Mass.

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2.7. Od Požarevačkog mira 1718. do Berlinskog kongresa 1878. From the 1718 Požarevac Peace treaty to the 1879 Congress of Berlin Vraćanjem neumskoga područja Turcima, oni u Neumu postavljaju manju vojnu jedinicu. Isto tako postojala je vojna jedinica i u tvrđavi Hutovo. U sukobu među braćom Rizvanbegovićima, Mehmedbeg, polubrat glasovitoga Ali-paše Rizvanbegovića, poznatiji pod nazivom Hadži-beg, uspostavio je u Hutovu posebnu kapetaniju. Neobuzdan i divljačke naravi, ostavio je najgoru uspomenu u ovim krajevima. U građanskom ratu u Bosni i Hercegovini, uz pomoć Napoleonovih vojnika, opredijelio se protiv brata Ali-paše te u jednom sukobu izgubio život. Poslije njega gasi se Hutovska kapetanija, a Turci i dalje u ovom utvrđenju drže manje vojne posade. O patnjama puka u našem kraju piše don Andrija Maslać godine 1820.: „Nije moguće ispisati progon-

stva i zulume koji mih podnosimo u oviem tužniem stranama od nevjernije turaka...“ U maticama umrlih župe Gradac, za više upisa mladih ljudi stoji da su stradali u borbi i pokopani kod tvrđave u Hutovu. Poslije „utrnuća“ Hutovske kapetanije neumsko područje je opet u sastavu stolačke. Ovo razdoblje obilježeno je dolaskom isusovačkih misionara na ovo područje koji i ovdje, kao i svugdje, nastoje organizirati školstvo. Centar njihove hercegovačke misije bila je župa Gradac. Tako su oni u Gracu godine 1847. otvorili prvu pravu školsku ustanovu na ovim prostorima, po uzoru na ostale isusovačke kolegije u svijetu. Na žalost, ni škola ni misija nisu bili duga vijeka. Ipak, dali su temelje nekolicini naših intelektualaca.

HUTOVO - Stari grad Središnja gradska kula Central city tower

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GRADAC , Župske matice Župa Grada posjeduje najstarije matice u Hercegovini počevši od 1708 god. Gradac parish has the oldest registries in Herzegovina since 1708

GLUMINA Kalež iz turskog doba pronađen u ruševinama Chalice from Turkish times found in the ruins

After the territory of Neum was returned to the Ottoman Empire, they deployed a minor military unit in Neum. Equally, there was also a military unit deployed in Hutovo Fort. In the clash among Rizvanbegović brothers, Mehmed-bey, step brother of the renowned Ali-pasha Rizvanbegović, better known by his nickname Hadži-bey, established a separate military district called kapetanija (etym. captaincy) in Hutovo. Wild and violent by nature, he left the worst memory in this part of the country. In the Civil War in Bosnia and Herzegovina, aided by Napoleon’s troops, he took sides against his brother Ali-pasha and got killed in a clash. After his death the Hutovo captaincy dissolves, and the Turks continue to maintain minor military crews in this fort. Records about suffering of the people in our part of the country were written by Father Andrija Maslać in 1820: „It is impossible to put on paper all hardships and depredations that we suffer in exile from the heathen Turks on these misfortunate hillsides...“ In the registries of dead of Gradac parish, a number of entries of the deceased young people indicate that they got killed in battle and were buried near the fort in Hutovo. After the „extinction“ of Hutovo captaincy, the region of Neum again became part of the Stolac region. This period is marked by the arrival of Jesuit missionaries to this area, who made efforts to organize education at this place, like they did everywhere else. Center of their Herzegovina mission was the parish of Gradac. Therefore, in Gradac, in 1847, they opened the first genuine school establishment in this part of the country, modeled on other Jesuit collegia worldwide. Unfortunately, neither the school nor the mission were long-lived. Nevertheless, they set a foundation for later appearance of a number of our prominent intellectuals.

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Padom Mletačke i Dubrovačke Republike i prelaskom i jednoga i drugoga područja u ruke Francuza, a kasnije Austrije, stari status Kleka postao je besmislen. Turci zato uopće ne reagiraju na francusku izgradnju ceste ovim područjem i na nesmetani protok robe i ljudi tim putem. Europske države, osobito od 1830. godine, žele područje Neuma i Kleka iskoristiti za sukobe Austrije s Turskom. Osobito su enklave Klek i Sutorinu nastojale iskoristiti Engleska i Francuska da bi tu utvrdile svoju luku za trgovinu s Turskom, čemu se Austrija energično opire držeći se odredaba Karlovačkoga i Požarevačkog mira i dotadašnje prakse o zaljevu Neuma i Kleka kao „zatvorenog mora“. Od 1852. turske vlasti pokušavaju novu gradnju u Neumu, što je Austrija energično spriječila. Isto tako ni Turska nije dopuštala odgovarajuće popravke francuske ceste preko neumskoga područja.

NEUM, Muzej i galerija Austrijsko odlikovanje ustaničkom vođi Miji Tomaševiću Kukici Austrian medal to the rebel leader Mijo Tomašević Kukica

GRADAC Polovicom XIX. stoljeća isusovci su u gradačkoj župskoj kući otvorili najstariju školu u istočnoj Hercegovini (collegium). In the mid-19th century, in Gradac parish house, Jesuits opened the oldest school in East Herzegovina, (collegium)

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

NEUM, Muzej i galerija Vitrina starog naoružanja Cabinet with old weapons

After the fall of the Venetian and Dubrovnik Republics, and after both areas changed hands to become parts of the French and later the Austrian dominions, the former status of Klek became meaningless. That is why the Turks did not react at all against the French efforts to construct a road through this area and establish smooth flow of goods and people via this road. Particularly after 1830, many European states aspired to make the areas of Neum and Klek instrumental in triggering the conflicts of Austria against the Ottoman Empire. Specifically, the enclaves of Klek and Sutorina were sought to be used by England and France in order for them to establish their sea ports in that area intended for trade with the Ottoman Empire, which was opposed strongly by Austria that abided adamantly by the provisions of the Karlovac and Požarevac peace treaties and complied firmly with the then practice applicable to Neum and Klek gulfs as parts of a „closed sea“. Since 1852, the Ottoman dominion was attempting to mount some new construction campaigns in Neum, which Austria prevented vigorously. Likewise, the Ottoman Empire did not allow repairs that were required on the French roads running through the Neum region.

don Ivan Musić vođa Hrvata u Hercegovačkom ustanku (1875. - 1878.) Father Ivan Musić, leader of Croats in Herzegovina insurrection (1875. – 1878.)

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Od polovice XIX. st. položaj Hrvata u Hercegovini neprekidno se pogoršava. Podizanju ustanka doprinijela je priprema Rusije za rat s Turskom 1874. godine, nakon čega i Austro-Ugarska čini prve poteze, a najvažniji je bio put cara Franje Josipa uz hercegovačku granicu. Nevolje su prisilile Hrvate donje Hercegovine na ustanak 19. lipnja 1875. godine. Turske „kordune“ u Neumu razoružao je Ivan (Iviša) Konjevod. „Za njima se odmetnu mnogo Neumljana i drugih seljana“. Kad je Austro-Ugarska, pod pritiskom europskih država, dopustila iskrcavanje turskih vojnih trupa u Kleku, neumsko područje postaje jedno od većih žarišta sukoba. Ovdje se 4. kolovoza iskrcalo oko 1000 dobro naoružanih i opremljenih regularnih turskih vojnika, a u susret su im, oko Velike Gospe, pošle vojne formacije iz unutrašnjosti rušeći, pljačkajući i

paleći čitavo područje od Hrasna do Neuma. Engleski dopisnik Stilman, prolazeći cestom kroz neumsko područje, piše da je vidio „pustoš Hercegovine, jer je svaka kuća pokraj puta bila spaljena“. Ustanici su kasnije uspješno ometali dovoz svježih turskih snaga, a osobito se ističu bitke u Vranjevu Selu, Klepovici, Prapratnici i na Kolojanju. Putovanjem u Beč vojvoda Musić je izborio poseban status donje Hercegovine u ustanku te je ona praktično bila slobodni teritorij zvan Vojvodina Donja Hercegovina i kao takva dočekala je ulazak austro-ugarskih trupa u Bosnu i Hercegovinu nakon Berlinskoga kongresa 1878. godine. Jedno do sjedišta vojvode Musića bio je i hercegovački dio Kleka. Musićeva vojska je odigrala osobito važnu ulogu prigodom oslobađanja Stoca i Trebinja.

RADEŽ Ostaci francuske ceste neumskim područjem Remains of the French roead through the Neum area

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Polazak turskih trupa iz Kleka (D.Vierge, 1876) Departure of Turkish troops from Klek (D. Vierge, 1876.)

From the mid-19th century, the status of Croats in Herzegovina was deteriorating steadily. An insurrection was fomented as a result of preparatory steps that Russia took in 1874 in order to wage war against Turkey, after which the Austro-Hungarian Empire also made its first moves, most important of which was a journey that Emperor Franz Joseph along the borders of Herzegovina. Adversity compelled Croats of Lower Herzegovina to rise a rebellion on 19 June 1875. The Ottoman „korduns“ (border guard posts) in Neum were disarmed by Ivan (Iviša) Konjevod. „Following their example, many a citizen of Neum and other villagers became outlaws“. When under the pressure of European countries the Austro-Hungarian Empire allowed the landing of Turkish military troops in Klek, the Neum region became one of the major flash-points of conflict. Here, on August 4, landed approximately 1,000 well-armed and well-equipped regular Turkish soldiers, while some time near the Solemnity of the Assumpton of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the inland military forma-

tions came out to meet them, destructing, looting and burning the entire area from Hrasno to Neum. An American-born travel writer, the London Times correspondent William J. Stillman, traveling on the road that ran through the region of Neum, writes that he saw „the desolation of Herzegovina, every house by the road being burnt“. Later the insurgents impeded with success the transport of fresh Turkish forces, and particularly important were the battles in Vranjevo Selo, Klepovica, Prapratnica and on Kolojanj. As a result of his journey to Vienna, Duke Musić secured a special status of Lower Herzegovina in the insurrection so that it practically became a free territory called the Duchy of Lower Herzegovina and as such it lived long enough to see the arrival of Austro-Hungarian troops at Bosnia and Herzegovina after the Congress of Berlin in 1878. One of the seats of Duke Musić was also the Herzegovinian part of Klek. Musić’s army played a highly important role in the liberation of Stolac and Trebinje.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

2.8. Neumsko područje u doba Kraljevine SHS i Jugoslavije The region of Neum during the rule of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians and as part of the former Yugoslavia Znatan dio mladih ljudi s ovoga područja izgubio je život u Prvome svjetskom ratu, po raznim ratištima. A uklapanjem ovoga područja u civilizacijski zaostalu novu državu – Kraljevinu SHS, pa Jugoslaviju – ono polagano stagnira na svim područjima. Tu promjenu posebno osjeća hrvatski katolički živalj. Država je prema njemu u praksi bila neprijateljski raspoložena i težila je njegovu uništenju. Nove vlasti pokušale su i s onim najgorim: zatrijeti hrvatsko ime na ovim prostorima! Ekonomsko zapostavljanje Hrvata na ovome području bila je trajna praksa te države. Pri zapošljavanju na važnijim radnim mjestima (željeznička pruga i ustanove) forsirani su Srbi i Crnogorci, premda su u stručnoj spremi daleko zaostajali za domaćim hrvatskim katoličkim življem. Naše se ljude, naprotiv, želi iskorijeniti iz svoga zavičaja, nudi im se radno mjesto u dalekim i najpasivnijim krajevima Srbije, Sandžaka, Kosova... Ako je nekoga od Srba zanimalo neko radno mjesto na kome je Hrvat, bez ikakvih posljedica bi organizirao noćno ubojstvo i domalo zaposjeo njegovo radno mjesto. Posebno se pazilo na školstvo: u rujnu 1932. otvorena je u Hutovu škola za Hutovo, Prapratnicu, Zelenikovce i Previš. Za prvoga učitelja postavljen je

musliman, iako je od pedeset petero djece bilo samo dvoje ili troje muslimana, od nametnutih službenika. Župnik don Mitar je u kronici tugaljivo zapisao: „Eto na Neumu je učitelj rišćanin Janko Marić a u Hutovu musliman Muhamed Patković“, a domalo i u Gracu učiteljica pravoslavka Milka Polić. S pljačkanjem bogatijih Hrvata u novoj državi nastavlja se s manje smetnji. Žandari, koje država postavlja i nacionalno po svom receptu bira da „utvrđuju“ novu državu, u tom su pogledu „nemoćni“, a vrlo su uspješni u hvatanju, mučenju, globljenju i zatvaranju Hrvata za pjesmu, riječ, kilo duhana... Treba istaknuti i obvezno slavljenje srpskih vjerskih i crkvenih blagdana, kojima država posvećuje mnogo pozornosti pa makar pravoslavnih u nekome mjestu bilo i neznatno. Hrvatsko pučanstvo i u ovim krajevima korjenito se okreće protiv nove vlasti nanoseći joj štetu gdje god i kako god to budu dopuštale mogućnosti. Posebno se to izražava nakon ubojstva Stjepana Radića, te u pritajenom radovanju i slavljenju prigodom pogibije kralja u Marseillu. Na izborima 1938. pučanstvo ovoga kraja listom se opredjeljuje za HSS i dr. Mačeka. U vrijeme Kraljevine SHS i tzv. stare Jugoslavije, dogodili su se, ipak, i neki nužni pomaci naprijed na ovom području. God. 1924. u Hutovu je obnovljena općina s bilježnikom i kasom. Od izbora 1928. u tu općinu su uklopljene čitave župe Gradac i Donje Hrasno. Uspostava Banovine Hrvatske, u koju je ovo područje uklopljeno, pružila je nadu hrvatskom življu da će izboriti svoju ravnopravnost i slobodu.

HUTOVO Prkačinova kuća- zgrada općine Prkačin house – municipality building

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

A significant number of young people from this region lost their lives in the World War I, on the various battlefields. However, as a result of its integration into a new state that was considerably lagging behind the rest of the civilized world – the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes – and then in the state of Yugoslavia, this region was steadily stagnating in all walks of life. Croat population was most fiercely affected by this change. In practice, the state was hostile towards this population and aimed for its destruction. The new government made every effort to do what was even the worst: to exterminate every Croat name in this part of the country! Economic neglect of Croats in this area was a permanent practice of that state. In terms of employment, Serbs and Montenegrins had a much more favorable treatment when it came to the more lucrative and influential jobs (railway and institutions), even though their educational background was by far lagging behind the one of the local Croat Catholic population. What is more, the aim was to eradicate our people from their homeland, the only jobs offered to them were those in remote and most underdeveloped areas of Serbia, Sandžak, Kosovo... If some Serb was interested in a job occupied by a Croat, he would arrange an overnight assassination, the Croat would disappear without a trace, while soon after that, the Serb would occupy his place and go unpunished. Special attention was paid to education: in September 1932 a school was opened in Hutovo for Hutovo, Prapratnica, Zelenikovci and Previš. The first teacher appointed by the imposed officials was a Moslem, al-

though out of the total fifty-five children there were only two or three Moslems. In his chronicles, the parish priest, father Mitar, writes a gloomy account of such practices: „Well, the teacher in Neum is a Christian, Janko Marić, while in Hutovo the teacher is a Moslem, Muhamed Patković“, while soon after he wrote his account, an Orthodox Ms. Milka Polić was appointed as teacher in Gradac. Wealthier Croats in the new state continue to be robbed with less and less difficulties. Gendarmes, who were officers of the State selected and appointed by their ethnicity according to the State’s recipe to „reinforce“ the law, were completely „powerless“ in regard of that reinforcement, but on the other hand very successful in capturing, torturing, fining and jailing of Croats on account of a chant, a word, a kilo of tobacco... Noteworthy is also a mandatory celebration of Serb religious and ecclesiastical holidays, to which much attention was paid by the State, even though the number of Orthodox population in most of the places was quite insignificant. Croat population in this part of the country turns radically against the new government inflicting it damage wherever and whenever an opportunity would arise. This was particularly pronounced after the assassination of Stjepan Radić, and in the suppressed rejoicing and delight in the assassination of King Alexander in Marseilles. In the 1938 elections, the people of this part of the county unanimously decided to vote for the Croat Peasant Party (HSS) and Dr. Vladko Maček. Yet, during the times of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians and the so-called Old Yugoslavia, some indispensable progress was nevertheless made in this domain. Hutovo municipal building, including its notarial office and treasury, was reconstructed in 1924. After the 1928 elections the entire parishes of Gradac and Donje Hrasno became the integral parts of that Municipality. Establishment of the Autonomous Banovina of Croatia, which also encompassed this area, raised the Croat population’s hopes that better times were at hand and that they would be able to secure their equality and freedom.

HUTOVO Prva škola / First school

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Tijekom rata pučanstvo neumskoga područja, sve do željezničke pruge, nije bježalo, a hrašnjanska sela temeljito su poharana i pretrpjela mnoge zločine. Koncem rata čitavo je neumsko područje postalo poprištem žestokih borbi, posebno za Hutovo, Gradac i strateški vrlo važan Vukov klanac. Najviše Hrvata sa širega i užega neumskog područja stradalo je u poslijeratnim progonima i teroru. Tijekom Drugoga svjetskog rata i neposredno u poraću stradalo je 89 osoba. Na području Graca i sela koja mu gravitiraju (župa Gradac) stradalo je 174, na području Hutova i sela koja mu gravitiraju (današnja župa Hutovo) 201, na području hrašnjanskih sela koja pripadaju općini Neum čak 487 osoba. Treba osobito naglasiti da je i preko neumskoga područja prolazila jedna grana velikoga križnog puta hrvatskoga naroda. Mostar je u isto vrijeme bio i jedno od raskrižja na križnom putu. Odatle su kretale ko-

lone zarobljenika u nekoliko pravaca – jedan od njih išao je vlakovima (u vagonima za stoku, zaključanim katancima) preko Hutova i Ravnog, prema Trebinju i dalje na istok – i slijevali su se u popovsko-trebinjsko-bilećko područje te krajeve Crne Gore. Stolac je također bio područje velikih stratišta Hrvata u poraću i jedno od raskrižja križnoga puta. O onima koji su otišli u čisto srpska područja koritom Bregave preko Berkovića (Dabra), pa i o onima koji su poslani u pravcu Ljubinja, vrlo se malo znade. Najkrvavija stolačka stradanja ipak su djelo zloglasnoga stolačkoga poratnog „suda“. U njemu su dobrim dijelom sjedili renomirani ratni zločinci ovoga kraja, kako Srbi tako i muslimani, kojima je prva briga i morala biti likvidacija svih onih koji su mogli nešto znati o njihovim zločinima! Svezane zarobljenike trpali su u zgrade „Gruntovnicu“ i „Doganu“, odakle su ih samo provodili preko „suda“ do stratišta.

HRASNO: Spomenik žrtvama II svjetskog rata Memorial for the victims of WW II

HRASNO: Detalj sa spomenika: Spomen svim žrtvama trebinjske biskupije Details from the monument: Memorial for all victims of Trebinje diocese

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

HUTOVO: Zavičajna kuća, spomenik žrtvama II svjetskog rata, poraća i domovinskog rata Hutova i okolnih sela Native House, a monument for the victims killed in WWII, the post-war period and the War of Independence of Hutovo and surrounding villages

During the War, while the population of the Neum region living all the way down to the railway tracks was not forced to leave their homes, the surrounding villages in Hrasno were totally ransacked and ravaged and suffered many crimes. Near the end of the war the entire Neum region became the battlefield of fierce war campaigns, which held true particuarly for Hutovo, Gradac and the strategically highly imporatnt Vukov Klanac (Wolf Canyon). Most Croats from the wider and narrower areas of Neum suffered adversity in the postwar persectuions and terror. During the World War II and in the immediate post-war period, 89 persons were killed. The number of casualties in the territory Gradac and its surrounding villages (Gradac parish) was 174, in the territory of Hutovo and its surrounding villages (today’s parish of Hutovo) it was 201, whereas in the territory of the villages in the Hrasno area that are part of Neum Municipality, the number of casualties was even much higher and reached 487. It is worth noting that an arm of the Great Way of the Cross (Via Dolorosa) of Croat people also ran through the Neum region. Mostar was at the same time one of the cross-station points on the Way of the Cross. That place was the point of departure for the long marching lines of prisoners that moved along into several directions – one of the directions being the one on board trains (in cattle-trucks, locked up with padlocks) accross Hutovo and Ravno, towards Trebinje and further to the east – flowing into the regions of Popovo-Trebinje-Bileća and parts of Monte Negro.

Stolac was also an area of major places of execution of Croats in the aftermath of the war and one of the cross-stations of the Way of the Cross. Little is known about those who moved to purely Serb areas on the watercourse of the Bregava River via Berkovići (Dabar) and even about those who were transported towards Ljubinje. The bloodiest hardships in Stolac were yet to come as a result of operation of the infamous Stolac Post-War „Court“. To a great extent there sat those who were notorious villains and war criminals of this area, both Serbs and Moslems, whose primary concern, no wonder, was to put to death all those who could know something about their villainies and crimes! Fettered prisoners were herded and crammed into „Gruntovnica“ and „Dogana“ (land registry and customs house) buildings, from where they were simply conveyed through „the court“ just to be taken to the place of their execution.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

GRADAC: Spomenik žrtvama II Svjetskog i Domovinskog rata Memorial for the victims of WWII. and the War of Independence

U neposrednom poraću neko je vrijeme umalo nad cjelokupnim hrvatskim pučanstvom bdjela mora sumnjičenja i straha od „suda“ jer se nije moglo računati na pravo i pravdu. Tako će, praktično, veliki dio narodnog bića ostati izvan zakonske zaštite u svakom smislu. Nad njima će, ne samo organi te „narodne“ vlasti, nego i srpski i muslimanski civili nekažnjeno vršiti zločine jednake onima tijekom

samoga rata! Najkrvavija otvorena zlodjela počinili su tzv. terenci. Njihove jedinice preplavile su hrvatska sela i krajeve u potrazi za škriparima. To im je bila prava prigoda i opravdanje za nastavak terora nad hrvatskim selima i ubijanja bez suda. Od prvih poratnih godina pa, možemo slobodno reći, do propasti komunističke Jugoslavije, Hrvatima se trajno prišivala navodna genocidnost u ratu, a druga dva naroda uživala su plodove svoga pristanka uz „revoluciju“. To se primjenjivalo u zapošljavanju, upisivanju na studije, stipendiranju đaka i studenata, pri vaganju duhana, probijanju i kasnije asfaltiranju putova, elektrifikaciji, uvođenju telefona, premještanju mjesnih ureda…, a posebno u politici. Nesklonost komunističke države prema Hrvatima na ovome području očitovala se osobito pri stvaranju Neuma i njegove općine. Neumskom pučanstvu oduzimalo se zemljište, bez adekvatnih naknada, i dijeljeno za izgradnju vikendica i kuća pripadnicima drugih nacionalnosti. Hrvate se zaobilazilo, s jasnom namjerom da se ovdje stvori jedan nehrvatski grad. U tome su dobro surađivale vlasti iz Sarajeva i Beograda.

GRADAC: Spomenik gradačko-neumskom župniku don Mitru Papcu, žrtvi komunistiškog režima Memorial to Gradac-Neum parish priest Father Mitar Papac, victim of the communist regime

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

HUTOVO: 1. Osmoljetka iz akcije “1000 novih škola” 2. Župska crkva u Hutovu je prva u BiH sagrađena na državnom zemljištu 1. Primary school in action called „1000 new schools“ 2. Parish church in Hutovo is the first in Bosnia and Herzegovina built on state-own land

In the immediate post-war period, for some time, among nearly the entire Croat populace lingered a nightmare of mutual suspicion and fear of the „court“, since no one could count on law and justice any longer. Thus, practically a great deal of the Croat national being would remain without legal protection in all respects. Crimes will be committed against them with impunity not only by the authorities of the so-called „people’s“ government, but also by Serb and Moslem civilians, crimes equal to those committed in the course of the war itself! The bloodiest, self-evident and most heinous evil deeds were committed by the so-called field troops. Their units flooded Croat villages and settlements in pursuit of „škripari“. (etym. “škripari” were Croats who resisted communist rule and hid in caves. Term cave is locally known as the so-called „škripina“ and hence the name škripari), who were used as a pretext for the communist authorities to justify continued terror against Croat villages and perform executions without trial. From the first years after the war and, we daresay, until the collapse of communist Yugoslavia, Croats were

tagged with a permanent label of being alleged perpetrators of war-time genocide, while the other two constituent peoples enjoyed the fruits of their siding with the „revolution“. This was evident in their easier ways to get employment, enroll studies, receive scholarships in primary, secondary and higher education, get the better deal when weighing tobacco for sales, get the graveled and asphalted roads, get the power and telephone lines, have the local community offices transferred to their place …, and in particular in politics. This deep-rooted aversion of the communist state to Croats in this area was quite apparent during the time when Neum and its municipality were established. Neum inhabitants were stripped off of their land, without any adequate compensation, and in turn that land was awarded for purposes of constructing weekend cottages and houses for members of other two constituent peoples. Croats were avoided with the clear intent to create here a non-Croat town. In devising and realizing this scheme, the authorities from Sarajevo and Belgrade collaborated successfully .

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

2.9. Domovinski rat / The War of Independence Godina 1991. i 1992. bile su najteže godine u povijesti Neuma. To su godine rata i velikih povijesnih obrata i događaja. Na prvim demokratskim izborima u Bosni i Hercegovini, 18. studenoga 1990., vlast su dobile tri nacionalne stranke (muslimanska: SDA, srpska: SDS i hrvatska: HDZ), ali su razlike u njihovim programima bile tako očigledne. U početku se borba vodila političkim metodama i sredstvima, ali je sve bliže bilo ratno rješenje. U rujnu 1991. vojno i političko vodstvo Srbije i JNA otpočeli su realizaciju projekta velike Srbije, a sastavni dio toga plana bila je okupacija juga Hrvatske i granica na rijeci Neretvi. Događaji u Hrvatskoj već su imali svoje odjeke u BiH. S vojnoga gledišta, neumski prostor je značajna cjelina s donjoneretvanskim i dubrovačkim prostorom. Dok se mjesecima vodio rat u Hrvatskoj i nakon što su potpuno stradala hrvatska sela općine Ravno u Hercegovini, republička vlast Bosne i Hercegovine šuti ili zauzima poguban stav: „To nije naš rat!“ Prostor BiH u jugoistočnoj Hercegovini koristi se za napad na hrvatski Dubrovnik, koji se ubrzo našao u potpunom okruženju i s kopna i s mora. Neum se našao na glavnom pravcu prodora srpsko-crnogorske vojske ka

hrvatskoj luci Ploče, a samim tim i zadnja crta obrane hrvatskoj vojsci za grad Metković. To je surova jesen 1991. godine s mirisom krvi, baruta, paleži i smrti. Sve se treslo i drhtalo pred strahotama koje se spremaju. Provala rezervista JNA iz Srbije i Crne Gore dočekala je Neum razoružan i u kaosu (10. rujna 1991. JNA je oduzela oružje tadašnje Teritorijalne obrane Neum iz skladišta u Gabeli i Tasovčićima kod Čapljine). Trebalo je braniti svoj dom, svoje dijete, svoju kuću, svoje polje, a pomoći niotkud. Jugoslavenska armija počinje agresiju kao borbu za opstanak Jugoslavije, ali praktično postaje njezin razbijač. Političko vodstvo i narod Neuma dovedeni su u poziciju sami se pobrinuti za svoju budućnost. Odluka je bila – braniti se! Svi politički i vojni procesi snažno su se reflektirali na uskome prostoru Neuma. Tu se treba odigrati glavni obračun srpskih napadača i hrvatskih snaga koje brane dolinu Neretve. Početak Domovinskog rata za hrvatski narod u BiH je rujan – listopad 1991. Suvišna je dvojba koja i danas dijeli javnost u BiH, koji događaj držati početkom velikosrpske agresije na BiH.

OKOLICA HUTOVA (VICINITY OF HUTOVO) Malii “špreng” , prvi oružani otpot srpsko-crnogorskoj agresiji u BiH Little “špreng” (small make-shift explosive device), first armed resistance against Serb-Montenegrin aggression in Bosnia and Herzegovina

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Spomenik Anti Babiću prvom poginulom branitelju na području Neuma Memorial to Ante Babić, first defender killed in the area of Neum

The years 1991 and 1992 were the most difficult ones in the history of Neum. These were the years of war and great historical turning-points and events. In the first democratic elections held in Bosnia and Herzegovina on 18 November 1990, three national parties came into power (Bosniac Moslem: SDA, Serb: SDS and Croat: HDZ). However, differences in their programs were so evident. In the beginning, a fierce fight was waged by political ways and means; nevertheless, settling things by engaging in warfare was getting ever so closer. In September 1991, the military and political leadership of Serbia and the Yugoslav People’s Army (JNA) began the realization of the Great Serbia project, and the integral part of that plan was to occupy the southern Croatia and the border along the Neretva River. The events in Croatia already echoed accross Bosnia and Herzegovina. From the military point of view, the Neum region was a highly important entity together with the areas of the Lower Neretva Valley and Dubrovnik. Although the war in Croatia was waged for months and the Croat villages in Ravno Municipality in Herzegovina were stricken, the government authorities of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina remained silent or adopted a disastrous attitude: „This is not our war!“ Some parts of Bosnia and Herzegovina in Southeast Herzegovina were used for attacks on the Croatian town of Dubrovnik, which was soon totally surrounded from land and sea. Neum found itself in the way of the main raids carried out by Serbian-Montenegrin troops in the direction of the Croatian Port of Ploče, and therefore was also the last line of defense for the Croatian

Army defending the town of Metković. That was a fierce autumn of 1991 with smell of blood, powder, arson and death. Everything was shaking and trembling with fear of the unspeakable horrors that were about to take place. At the time of incursion of the Yugoslav People’s Army reservists from Serbia and Monte Negro, Neum was disarmed and in disorder (on 10 September 1991 the JNA seized weapons from the then Neum Territorial Defense from its warehouse facilities in Gabela and Tasovčići near the town of Čapljina). There was a pressing need to defend one’s own home, one’s own children, one’s own house and field, whereas no help came from anywhere. Yugoslav Army started aggression under the disguise of fighting for survival of Yugoslavia, but practically became the one who tore Yugoslavia apart. Political leadership and people of Neum were compelled to take care of their own future. The decision was made – Stand up and defend yourself! All political and military processes were closely reflected in the narrow region of Neum. That was the place where the main fights were about to happen between the Serb aggressors and the Croat forces defending the Neretva valley. The War of Independence for Croat people in Bosnia and Herzegovina started in September–October 1991. There is no place for doubt as to what event should be considered as the beginning of the Serb chauvinist aggression against Bosnia and Herzegovina, although this subject continues to divide the public in Bosnia and Herzegovina even today.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Kronologija ratnih događanja :

- 27. srpnja 1991. počele su se organizirati seoske straže na terenu općine Neum. - 28. kolovoza 1991. utemeljen je Krizni stožer općine Neum. - 30. kolovoza 1991. ophodnje (patrole) općinske policije pojačane su pričuvnim policajcima. - 18. rujna 1991. izvršena je prva javna mobilizacija u BiH: dva voda pričuvne policije Neum razmještena su u rajonu Stolovima, 35 km od Neuma, važnom prijevoju – platou (n/v 424 m) na samoj granici općina Neum i Stolac i križanju putova prema visoravni G. Hrasno (s koje se kontrolira zapadni dio Popova polja) te jugozapadno k Neumu i Metkoviću, i preuzela kontrolu sjeverne granice općine Neum. - od 18. do 23. rujna 1991. preko Stolova u Neum pristiže prvi val izbjeglica iz Stoca i Dubrava. - 22. rujna 1991. imenovano je Zapovjedništvo obrane Neuma. - 1. listopada 1991. prvi borbeni okršaj rezervista JNA i hrvatske vojske na dubrovačkom ratištu i težak poraz JNA kod Čepikuća, uz samu granicu. - 1. listopada 1991. prema Neumu, bježeći ispred JNA, pristižu izbjeglice iz Popova polja. - 1. listopada 1991. zrakoplovi JNA prvi put raketiraju i tuku strojnicama prometnice u Neumu. - 4. listopada 1991. u grad Neum pristiže oko 200 izbjeglica od susjednoga Slanog i Dubrovačkog primorja - 5. i 6. listopada 1991. JNA i crnogorski rezervisti sustavno ruše Ravno, selo istočno od Neuma. - 6. listopada 1991. postrojbe JNA počele su topništvom gađati selo Gluminu. - 14. listopada 1991. na prostor općine Neum dolaze promatrači Europske zajednice; psihoza rata ovladala neumskim pukom, čitavo područje trpi i proživljava teške dane u snažnom strahu jer je na pravcu glavnog napada. - 15. listopada 1991. granatirano je selo Drijen. - 2. studenoga 1991., pri izvršenju borbenoga zadatka za trajanja raketiranja zrakoplova JNA, kod sela Drijena poginuo Ante Babić, vojnik iz Graca (pok. Ante je prvi poginuli vojnik u BiH u Domovinskom ratu). - 6. studenoga 1991. postrojbe JNA ulaze u susjedna sela Turkoviće, Zagorac i Pećinu, pa su branitelji Neuma aktivirali tzv. „mali špreng“ u rajonu Stožine, na granici općine u Popovu polju, na putu Ravno – Hutovo; bilo je to prvo uspješno zaustavljanje napada JNA u BiH. 52

- 7. studenoga 1991. zrakoplov JNA u rajonu Klepovica kod Moševića raketirao autobus pun putnika; nije bilo poginulih, a autobus je oštećen. - 10. studenoga 1991. JNA i rezervisti okupirali neumsko selo Dobri Do i u dva dana ga opljačkali. - 18. studenoga 1991. u rajonu bivše željezničke postaje Zelenikovac, aktiviranjem tzv. „velikoga šprenga“ branitelji su zaustavili prodor tenkova ispred sela Hutova. - 24. studenoga 1991. Krizni stožer općine Neum proglasio opću mobilizaciju. - 6. prosinca 1991., nakon višekratnih pregovora vodstva Neuma i napadača, dogovoreno je da neumska policija preuzme kontrolu Dobroga Dola kao tampon-crtu, pa se rezervisti povlače iz sela, ali će ga ponovno okupirati 31. prosinca 1991. - 11. veljače 1992. održani su posljednji pregovori jer JNA počinje veliku ofenzivu za konačno zauzimanje lijeve strane rijeke Neretve. - 21. ožujka 1992. počinje sustavno i svakidašnje topničko granatiranje svih sela i samoga grada Neuma i bombardiranje avijacijom; velike su materijalne štete. - 4. travnja 1992. civilna zaštita Neuma evakuira civilno pučanstvo na hrvatske otoke Korčulu, Hvar, Brač i u Makarsko primorje, a stočni fond je izmješten u brdski kraj zapadno od Metkovića. - 10. travnja 1992. počinje opći napad JNA i srpskih rezervista na području jugoistočne Hercegovine. Neum je napadnut na četiri pravca: sjeverno Stolac – Drenovac – Hrasno; južno zahvatom Jadranske magistrale Doli – Bistrina – Neum, te međupravcima Popovo polje – Hutovo i Trnovica – Drijen – Gradac. Tenkovi JNA prodiru na prijevoj Stolovi, branitelji Neuma pružaju grčevit otpor, uz velike žrtve. U trodnevnoj borbi uništeno je više napadačkih tenkova, a Stolovi su obranjeni. Stolovi su ključ obrane doline Neretve. - 24. travnja 1992. okupirano je selo Drijen i prijetila je opasnost rasijecanja neumskoga teritorija; počinje sustavno rušenje sela. - 5. svibnja 1992. počinje protuudar branitelja Neuma, a hrvatska vojska s prostora Neuma počinje deblokadu Dubrovnika. - 6. svibnja 1992. oslobođeno je selo Drijen, zatečeno je potpuno porušeno.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Hotel Salinas potpuno uništen nakon zračnog napada Hotel Salinas completely destroyed after an air raid

- 7. svibnja 1992. zrakoplov JNA raketirao župnu crkvu u Gracu, pri čemu se krov crkve zapalio i potpuno urušio. Protuzračna obrana u širem prostoru Neuma srušila je tih dana pet zrakoplova i jedan helikopter JNA. - 10. svibnja 1992. u dva vala zrakoplovi JNA napali su samo središte grada Neuma i bombama „krmačama“ oštetili dva hotela i više zgrada. - od 1. kolovoza 1992. na neumskome užem području je relativno zatišje. Intenzivno se obnavljaju porušeni stambeni i gospodarski objekti. Karitas, kao vodeća humanitarna organizacija, prednjači u pomoći, a Svjetski luteranski savez pruža znatnu pomoć u građevinskom materijalu. - 14. rujna 1992. u još nedovršenoj župnoj crkvi Gospe od Zdravlja u Neumu (jer je Mostar u tom vremenu pravo ratno žarište) posvećen je mons. dr. Ratko Perić za mostarsko-duvanjskog biskupa. - 1992/93. i 1993./94. Mostarsko sveučilište izmješteno je iz ratnog Mostara u Neum. U hotelu „Neum“ organiziran je smještaj studentima i profeso-

rima te redovita predavanja. - 19. travnja 1993. u Neumu je počela s radom postaja granične policije. - 1. studenoga 1993. u Neumu su počela raditi dva carinska prijelaza prema Hrvatskoj, u Kleku i na Kamenicama. - 1. studenoga 1993. u Neumu je organizirano prihvatilište i rehabilitacijski centar za ranjene i oboljele pripadnika HVO-a iz Srednje Bosne. - 21. studenoga 1995. u američkoj vojnoj bazi u Daytonu potpisan je, pod američkim pritiskom, nametnuti mirovni sporazum kojim je okončan rat u BiH i definiran ustroj države, po kojem Neum pripada entitetu Federacija Bosne i Hercegovine u državi Bosni i Hercegovini. Rat u Neumu od 1991. do 1995. znatno je usporio gospodarski razvoj, uništio mnoga materijalna dobra i iscrpio ljudski potencijal angažiranjem preko 900 ljudi u borbenom sastavu (policijske postrojbe i bojna „Neum“ HVO-a). Poginulo je i od posljedica rata umrlo 37 vojnika, a na desetke je ranjenih i oboljelih.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Here is a brief account of the main war events: - 27 July 1991, first village guards are organized in Neum Municipality area. - 28 August 1991, a crisis management committee of Neum Municipality is established. - 30 August 1991, municipal police patrols are reinforced with reserve policemen. - 18 September 1991, first public mobilization Bosnia and Herzegovina is carried out: two platoons of Neum reserve police forces are deployed in Stolovi region, 35 km from Neum, an important mountain passage – a plateau (at 424 m above sea level) at the very border between the municipalities of Neum and Stolac and the cross-road point towards the Gornje Hrasno high plains (from where western parts of Popovo Polje were kept under surveillance and control), and southwest towards Neum and Metković, and they take control of the northern border of Neum Municipality. - from 18 to 23 September 1991, via Stolovo the first wave of refugees arrives at Neum from Stolac and Dubrave. - 22 September 1991, Neum Defense Command (headquarters staff) is appointed. - 1 October 1991, the first armed conflict takes place between JNA reservists and the Croatian armed forces on Dubrovnik battlefield and a heavy defeat of JNA happens near Čepikuće, along the very border. - 1 October 1991, refugees from Popovo Polje pour in towards Neum, getting away from the JNA. - 1 October 1991, JNA aircrafts attack for the first time with rockets and strafe with machineguns the roads to Neum. - 4. October 1991, 200 refugees pour in to Neum from the neighboring Slano and Dubrovnik coastal area - 5 and 6 October 1991, the JNA and Montenegrin reservists systematically destroy Ravno, a village east of Neum. - 6 October 1991, JNA military units start an artillery attack on Glumina village. - 14 October 1991, the European Community observers come to the region of Neum Municipality; war psychosis overwhelm the population of Neum, the entire region is suffering and experiencing difficult times and intensive fear since it stands in the way of the main attack. - 15 October 1991, the village of Drijen is shelled. - 2 November 1991, while in combat mission during a rocket attack against JNA aircrafts near the village of Drijen, Ante Babić, a soldier from Gradac, is killed (late Ante is the first soldier killed in Bosnia and Her54

zegovina in the War of Independence). - 6 November 1991, JNA units invade the neighboring villages Turkovići, Zagorac and Pećina, and as a result Neum defense troops activate the so-called „mali špreng“ (a small-size makeshift explosive device) in the area of Stožine, on the Municipal border in Popovo Polje, on the road to Ravno – Hutovo; this is the first successful resistance to JNA attacks in Bosnia and Herzegovina. - 7 November 1991, a JNA aircraft attacks with rockets a bus full of passengers in the region of Klepovica near Moševići; there were no casualties, but the bus is damaged. - 10 November 1991, JNA regulars and reservists occupy a Neum village called Dobri Do and plunder the village for two days. - 18 November 1991, in the area of the former railway station Zelenikovac, by activating the so-called „veliki špreng“ (a large-size makeshift explosive device) defenders stop a large-scale tank raid at the outskirts of Hutovo village. - 24 November 1991, the Neum Municipality Crisis Management Committee declares general mobilization. - 6 December 1991, after several rounds of negotiations between Neum leadership and the aggressors, it is agreed that the Neum police should assume control over Dobri Do as a buffer-zone, and as a result the reservists withdraw from the village, but they occupy this village again on 31 December 1991. - 11 February 1992, the last round of negotiations is held, because the JNA starts a large-scale offensive for final occupation of the left bank of the Neretva River. - 21 March 1992, systematic and everyday artillery attacks start on all villages and the town of Neum itself, including air bombardments; material damages are enormous. - 4 April 1992, Neum Civilian Defense evacuates civilian population to the Croatian islands of Korčula, Hvar, Brač and Makarska coastal area, while livestock is transported to the highland area west of Metkovići. - 10 April 1992, the JNA and Serb reservists mount their general attack in the Southeast Herzegovina region. Neum is attacked in four directions: north Stolac – Drenovac – Hrasno; south on the stretch of Adriatic main road Doli – Bistrina – Neum, and side routs to Popovo Polje – Hutovo and Trnovica – Drijen – Gradac. JNA tanks get through to the mountain passage

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

GRADAC Crkva nakon zračnog napada Church after an air attack

of Stolovi, Neum defenders put up stiff resistance, at a great sacrifice. In a three-day battle a number of aggressors’ tanks are destroyed, and Stolovi passage is defended with success. Stolovi passage is crucial for defense of the Neretva River. - 24 April 1992, the village of Drijen is occupied and there is the danger of a wedge disconnecting the Neum territory; systematic devastation of the village starts. - 5 May 1992, counter-attack is mounted by Neum defenders, while the Croatian Army is starting an offensive from the territory of Neum in order to lift the siege around Dubrovnik. - 6 May 1992, the village of Drijen liberated, it is found razed to the ground. - 7 May 1992, a JNA aircraft shoots missiles at the parish church in Gradac, as a result of which the church roof is aflame and collapses. These days the air defense forces shoot five JNA aircrafts and a helicopter in the wider region of Neum.. - 10 May 1992, JNA aircrafts attack the very center of Neum in two waves, damaging two hotels and a number of buildings by dropping the so-called „sow“ bombs. - From 1 August 1992, there is a relative cease-fire in the narrower region of Neum. Intensive reconstruction of destroyed housing and economic facilities takes place. Caritas, as the leading charitable organization, takes the initiative in providing aid and support, whereas the World Lutheran Association is giving considerable support by providing construction material. - 14 September 1992, in the not-yet-finished build-

ing of the parish church «Gospa od Zdravlja» (Our Lady of Good Health) in Neum (since Mostar became at the time a real flashpoint of war) Monsignor Dr. Ratko Perić is consecrated as Bishop of the MostarDuvno Diocese. - 1992/93 and 1993/94, Mostar University is relocated from the war-stricken Mostar to Neum. Lodgings for students and professors including full-time lectures are arranged in „Neum“ Hotel. - 19 April 1993, a border police station starts its operation in Neum. - 1 November 1993, two Neum customs clearance check points start their operation on the border with Croatia, in Klek and Kamenice. - 1 November 1993, in Neum, an emergency reception center and a rehabilitation center are established for the wounded and sick members of the Croat Defense Council (HVO – the main Bosnian Croat military formation) units from Central Bosnia. - 21 November 1995, in the US Military Base in Dayton, under the US Government pressure, an imposed Peace Accord is signed, putting an end to the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina and defining the organization of the state, according to which Neum is now part of an entity called Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina within the State of Bosnia and Herzegovina. From 1991 to 1995, the war considerably delayed Neum’s economic development, destroyed many material assets and exhausted its human resources by recruiting above 900 persons slated for combat duties (police units and „Neum“ HVO battalion). Thirtyseven soldiers were killed or died as a result of war, while there were dozens of wounded and sick.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

HOTANJ Srušeni zrakoplov / Crashed airplane

STOLOVI Prijevoj gdje se odigrala ključna bitka na području općine Neum Mountain ridge where the key battle of the Neum area took place

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Detalj s prve linije odbrane Details from the front line

DRIJEN Selo nakon oslobođenja The village after its liberation

Topnici na položaju Artillery troops on their positions

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

3. KULTURNO-POVIJESNA i SPOMENIČKA BAŠTINA OPĆINE NEUM CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL HERITAGE AND MONUMENTS OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF NEUM O bogatstvu i raznolikosti kulturno-povijesne baštine Neuma i neumskoga zaleđa svjedoče mnogi vidljivi arheološki lokaliteti iz različitih povijesnih razdoblja: nalazimo ovdje prapovijesna naselja, gradine, gomile (grobne humke-tumule) iz brončanoga i željeznog doba, tragove antičkoga doba, srednjovjekovne crkve i sela te nekropole stećaka. S vidikovca Radeža pruža se predivan pogled s jedne strane na Neumski i Malostonski zaljev i poluotok Pelješac, a s druge strane (s Vukova klanca) na dolinu Neretve.

U Starom Neumu sačuvana je stara jezgra sela. Tu je znameniti vrt Ljanik u kome se sadio i uzgajao najkvalitetniji duhan u Hercegovini, koji se slao na carske dvore u Europu. Poviše sela u katoličkom groblju je crkva sv. Ante (izgrađena 1904. godine), a u novom naselju je župna crkva Gospe od Zdravlja. U prostorijama uz crkvu smješten je muzej i galerija. U samoj crkvi ističe se Križni put, djelo većega broja umjetnika u raznim tehnikama.

Župna crkva Gospe od Zdravlja / Parish church of Our Lady of Good Health

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

NEUM Crkva sv. Ante u Starom Neumu / Church of St. Anthony in Stari Neum

Numerous visible archeological sites dating from various historical periods bear witness to the abundance and diversity of the cultural and historical heritage of Neum and Neum’s hinterland: here we can find prehistoric settlements, hillforts (known locally as gradine), tumuli (burial mounds) dating from the Bronze and Iron Ages, traces dating from the antique period, medieval churches and villages and necropolises of stećak tombstones. From Radež belvedere there is a magnificent view of the Neum and Mali Ston Bay and the peninsula of Pelješac on one side, and of the Neretva river valley (from the ravine of Vukov klanac) on the other side.

In the Old Neum the old nucleus of the village has been preserved. The famous garden of Ljanik is there and in it the best quality tobacco in Herzegovina was grown and sent to the royal palaces in Europe. Above the village, in a Catholic cemetery, there is the Church of St. Anton (built in 1904), while in the new settlement there is the parish church of Our Lady of Good Health. A museum and a gallery are placed in the premises adjacent to the church. In the church itself there is the renowned collection of artworks called the Way of the Cross, done by a number of artists in various art techniques.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

NEUM Muzej i galerija Neum / Neum Museum and Gallery

NEUM - 30 godina opÄ&#x2021;ine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

U Vranjevu Selu je glasovita nekropola humske gospode Nikolića. Još uvijek je očuvano oko 160 stećaka. Na jednome stećku nalazi se njihov plemićki grb sa zastavom. Na tri su stećka natpisi. Pod njima su grobovi Katarine Kotromanić, žene župana Nikole, te kneza Vladislava, sina župana Nikole i kneza Petra. Bogati su različitim motivima uobičajenim za srednjovjekovno ukrašavanje. Spomenuto antičko naselje s

nekropolama stećaka uvršteno je na listu nacionalnih spomenika 2005. godine. Nedaleko od nekropola stećaka, na Vidića guvnu, prapovijesnom tumulu, otkriven je i istražen grob ilirskoga ratnika („neumski ratnik“) bogat arheološkim nalazima. Vrijedni nalazi izloženi su u Zemaljskom muzeju u Sarajevu i u neumskom muzeju.

VRANJEVO SELO Nekropla stećaka / Necropolis of stećaks

In the village of Vranjevo Selo, there is the famous necropolis of the Nikolić noblemen of Hum. About 160 stećak tombstones are still preserved. One stećak bears their feudal coat-of-arms with a flag. Three stećak tombstones bear inscriptions. Under these there are tombs of Katarina Kotromanić, wife of a district nobleman župan Nikola, and Duke Vladislav, son of župan Nikola, and duke Petar. They are rich in different motifs typical for the medieval decorations

and ornaments. This antique settlement with the necropolis of stećaks was included in the 2005 List of National Monuments. A tomb of an Illyrian warrior („the Neum Warrior“) rich in archeological findings has been discovered and explored not far from the necropolis of stećaks on the hill of Vidica guvno, a prehistoric tumulus. The valuable findings are exhibited in the National Museum in Sarajevo and the Neum Museum.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Uz put Neum – Stolac, u Moševićima, sagrađena je 1897. crkvica Svih svetih. Na području sela pronađena je ploča s natpisom, koja spominje crkvu sv. Petra i Pavla i sv. Varvare. Kamen na kojemu su uklesana tri križa vjerojatno potječe s toga lokaliteta. Ugrađen je u zid Matuškove kuće u središtu sela. Manja nekropola stećaka nalazi se na Nadgrebnicama.

MOŠEVIĆI Crkvica Svih Svetih Church of All Saints

MOŠEVIĆI: Kamenica izrađena u stećku Kamenica made in stećak a stone cut so that it can hold water, used as a watering-trough for cattle

Close to the Neum - Stolac road, in the village of Moševići, small Church of All Saints was constructed in 1897. In the area of the village a plaque with an inscription was found referring to the Church of St. Peter and Paul and St. Barbara. The stone in which three crosses were carved most probably originates from that site. It is embedded in the wall of Matuško house in the centre of the village. There is a small necropolis of stećaks on Nadgrebnice.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

GRADAC Crkva sv. Ane Church of St. Anna

GRADAC Stećak s križem u šamatoriju uz crkvu Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije Stećak with a cross in the cemetery next to the Church of the Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

GRADAC Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije Church of the Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary

U antičko doba nastaje važno naselje u Gradačkome polju, koje se smješta u vrijeme od 4. do 1. st. pr. Krista. Gradac je u srednjem vijeku središte župe Zažablje, a crkva sv. Ane, obnovljena 1619. godine, jedan je od najstarijih sačuvanih sakralnih objekata u ovome dijelu Hercegovine. I svetište današnje župne crkve iz istog je vremena. Današnja župna crkva Uz64

nesenja Blažene Djevice Marije sagrađena je 1887. godine. U crkvi se ističe Križni put umjetnika Katića, podrijetlom sa susjednoga Hotnja, a pred spomenikom žrtvama II. svjetskog i Domovinskog rata postavljena je „Pietà“, kip majke iz naroda s umirućim sinom u krilu, rad akademskog kipara i slikara Zlatka Čulara.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Oltar crkve Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije Altar of the Church of the Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary Pietà

The antique period developed an important settlement in the Gradačko Polje valley, which can be dated as originating from some point of time between the 4th and 1st centuries B.C. In the Middle Ages Gradac was the capital of the Parish of Zažablje, and the Church of St. Ana, reconstructed in 1619, is one of the oldest preserved sacral buildings in this part of Herzegovina. The shrine of the present-day parish church dates from that period. The present-day parish church of Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary was built in 1887. The church is famous for the Way of the Cross by artist Katić, who comes from neighboring Hotanj. Facing the memorial monument dedicated to the victims of the World War II and the War of Independence, there is a statue of a common woman called „Pietà“, erected in memory of a mother with the dying son in her lap, a work by academic sculptor and painter Zlatko Čular.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

Detalji s lokaliteta Podhumac Details from Podhumac site

Nekropola stećaka u Dobrovu pod Humcem ubraja se među najljepše nekropole na prostoru općine. Uz nekropolu se nalazi lokalitet Crkvina. U polju je vrelo Dobroštik i kod njega kamenica na kojoj je natpis koji spominje Boška Simeunovića.

NEUM - 30 godina općine (30th Anniversary of the Municipality)

DOBROVO: Nekropola stećaka na lokalitetu Podhumac Necropolis of stećaks at Podhumac site Detalj s lokaliteta Podhumac Details from Podhumac site

The necropolis of stećaks in the village of Dobrovo under Humac is considered one of the most beautiful necropolises in the territory of the municipality. Near the necropolis there is Crkvina site. On the plain there is a well of Dobroštik and next to it a stone bearing an inscription with clear references to Boško Simeunović.

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GRADAC Begušića kuća Begušić house

Hotanj Hutovski spominje se 1423. godine kao prebivalište vlastelina Grgura Vukosalića Nikolića. Tu se nalazi i kuća pločnica građena početkom 19. st. u kojoj se rodio don Lazar Lazarević, provikar (zamjenik biskupa) za Trebinjsko-mrkansku biskupiju. Vrijedan objekt je i don Andrina (Lazarevića) čatrnja napravljena sredinom 18. stoljeća pod selom a poviše puta koji iz Graca vodi u Hotanj. Nedaleko od sela nalazi se Šaraića peć (pećina), vrlo zanimljiv speleološki objekt ispred kojega je prirodni kameni most koji predstavlja svojevrstan prirodni fenomen (vidi prilog „Prirodne znamenitosti neumskoga zaleđa“). HOTANJ Rodna kuća don Lazara Lazarevića Birth house of Father Lazar Lazarević

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HOTANJ Stari čardak / Old turret house

Hotanj Hutovski was mentioned in 1423 as the residence of nobleman Grgur Vukosalić Nikolić. At this place, there is also a unique house constructed in the early 19th century in which Father Lazar Lazarević was born, Provicar (Vice Bishop) of Trebinje-Mrkan Diocese. Another valuable facility, Father Andro’s (Lazarević) rain-water catchment well (“čatrnja”), was constructed in the mid-18th century under the

village and above the road leading from Gradac to Hotanj. Nearby the village there is Šaraića cave, a very interesting speleological structure, with a natural stone bridge outside, which is a natural phenomenon in its own right (see Chapter „Sights of Nature in Neum’s Hinterland“).

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RADETIĆI Križ i stećak s ostacima natpisa Cross and stećak with the remains of inscription

U Donjem Drijenu nalazio se Krmekov čardak (kuća na kat) sa sunčanim satom. Ta jedinstvena građevina porušena je u Domovinskome ratu. Na zaravni Lišća nalazimo veću koncentraciju tumula. Ondje je i vrlo lijepa nekropola stećaka.

RADETIĆI Srednjovjekovni križ Middle Ages cross

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In Donji Drijen there was the Krmek čardak, a two-storey house, with a sun clock. This unique structure was destroyed during the War of Independence. On the plateau of Lišća, we find a large group of tumuli. A beautiful necropolis of stećaks is also there.

LIŠĆA Nekropola stećaka Necropolis of stećaks

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DRIJEN Crkva sv. Tripuna Church of St. Tripun

HOTANJ Zavjetna kapelica iz XIX stoljeća Votive chapel from the 19th century

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GRADAC Zavjetna kapelica Gospe od Karmela iz polovice XIX stoljeća Votive chapel of Our Lady of Carmel from the mid-19th century

GRADAC Zavjetna kapelica na Košćelovom klancu Votive chapel on Košćelov canyon

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PODŽABLJE Prapovjesne gomile Prehistoric tumuli

Na Podžablju, uz samu prometnicu za Hutovo, izdvajaju se tri monumentalne prapovijesne grobne gomile stare preko 4000 godina (tzv. hercegovačke piramide). U Broćancu se nalaze dvori zažapske vlastele Šimraka, koji su imali i svoj grb sačuvan u Fojničkome grbovniku. Njihovi su dvori (kućišta) po mišljenju arheologa jedinstvena građevina u Bosni i Hercegovini iz toga vremena. Tu stanuju u 17. stoljeću i poznati Nonkovići. Podno sela su maslinici, a od 1951. i stara uljara za mljevenje maslina i proizvodnju maslinova ulja.

BROĆANAC Crkvica / Little church

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BROĆANAC Ostaci Šimrakovih i Nonkovića dvora Remains of Šimrak and Nonković palaces

PRAPATNICA Zavjetna kapelica iz 1928 god. Votive chapel from 1928

On Podžablje, by the road to Hutovo, three monumental prehistoric burial mounds more than 4000 years old stand out (so-called Herzegovinian pyramids). In Broćanac there is a palace of the noblemen Šimrak of Zažablje, who had their coat-of-arms preserved in the Fojnica Armorial Roll. In the opinion of archeologists, their palace is a structure unique to Bosnia and Herzegovina for that historical period. In the 17th century, the famous Nonković family dwelled here. Under the village, there are olive groves and since 1951 an old oil refinery for olive-grinding and olive oil manufacture.

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PRAPATNICA Putičin čardak Putica turret

Putičin i Obadov čardak građevine su jedinstvene arhitekture. Selo je sačuvalo tradicijsku novovjeku seosku arhitekturu. U blizini sela je prastara seoska lokva i zanimljiva čatrnja građena za vrijeme Kraljevine Jugoslavije.

PRAPATNICA Putičina kuća - pločara Putica house – stone slab house

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PRAPATNICA Obadov čardak / Obad turret

Putičin and Obadov čardak (turret house) are buildings of unique architecture. The village has kept the traditional Modern Age rural architecture. In the vicinity of the village there is an ancient village fen and an interesting rain-water catchment well built at the time of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

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Na lokalitetu Prisjeka nalazi se „urbanizirano“ pretpovijesno naselje (oko 4000. god. pr. Krista). Ovdje, na prijevoju između masiva Žabe i Gradine, uz prometnicu Neum – Stolac, nalazi se i razmjerno dobro očuvani stari Hutovski grad. Kako se nalazio na glavnom putu od Stona prema Bosni, na tzv. putu soli, korišten je u svim povijesnim razdobljima. Središnja visoka kula (venecijanska), sazidana u 17. stoljeću, daje pečat Gradu koji je krajem 18. i početkom 19. stoljeća dograđivan. Unutar Grada nalazimo gospodarske objekte koji su služili posadi za svakidašnji život: čatrnje, izbe i slično. Iz srednjega vijeka ili novijeg doba su ruševine crkve pokraj velike kule. Iz arhivske građe saznajemo da

je u gradu kao svećenik službovao don Jure Sunožić. Ispod sjeverne kule smještena je tamnica u koju je posljednji vladar Grada, zapovjednik Hutovske kapetanije Hadži-beg Rizvanbegović, zatvarao svoje sužnje nad kojima je provodio stravična mučenja. To je jedan od rijetkih razmjerno dobro uščuvanih starih gradova. Iz suvremenoga su doba (iz godine 1901.) zgrade željezničke postaje i nadzorništva Hutovo. Veliki graditeljski pothvat učinjen je krajem 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća kad je izgrađena i puštena u promet željeznička pruga Gabela – Gruž (Dubrovnik) i do Zelenike u Boki Kotorskoj. Trasa pruge u dužini oko 15 kilometara prelazi kroz neumsku općinu.

HUTOVO Stari hutovski grad Old Town of Hutovo

Put soli (od Stona prema Bosni) Road of salt (from Ston to Bosnia)

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Jedan od brojnih tunela na trasi željezničke pruge One of numerous tunnels on the railway line

On the location of Prisjeka there is an „urbanized“ prehistoric settlement (dated around 4000 B.C.). Here on the mountain passage between the massifs of Mount Žaba and Mount Gradine, next to the Neum-Stolac road, there is a rather well-preserved old Hutovo town. As it was situated on the main road from Ston to Bosnia, on the so-called road of salt, it was used in all periods throughout history. The central tall turret (Venetian), built in the 17th century, gives its mark to the Town, which was further developed at the end of the eighteenth and the beginning of the 19th century. Within the Town itself we find outhouses which were used by servants for every day activities: rain-water catchment wells, log-houses and similar. Ruins of the church next to the tall turret date from the Middle Ages or the Modern Age. Archives show that Father Jure Sunožic served as a priest in the town. There is a dungeon under the North Tower in which the last ruler of the Town, commander of Hutovo Captaincy, Hadži-beg Rizvanbegović, imprisoned his slaves, whom he subjected to horrific tortures. This is one of the rare and relatively well-preserved old

HUTOVO Gojina ćuprija / Goja bridge

towns. The buildings of the railway station and administration of Hutovo date from the modern time (year 1901). A major architectural venture was undertaken in the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century when the railway line from Gabela – Gruž (Dubrovnik) and to Zelenika in Boka Kotorska was constructed and put into operation. A section of the railway line of about 15 kilometers runs through the municipality of Neum.

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BLIZINA HUTOVA Željeznička pruga nekada i sada Railway track before and now

Sačuvane su i zgrada općine u kojoj su se lokalne vlasti sastajale od 1924. do 1945. (Narodni Odbor opštine Hutovo radio od 1945. do 1955. u Raičevoj kući). Zgrada prve škole (financijske uprave), zadružni domovi (prva osmorazredna škola počela s radom 1960.), nova škola (iz 1974./75. iz projekta „1000 škola u BiH“) i Zavičajna kuća „Hutovo“, u kojoj je smještena etnološka zbirka. Zavičajna kuća „Hutovo“ 80

spomenik je onima koji živote položiše za vjeru i domovinu. Nalazi se u cimiteriju (tzv. šamatoriji) župne crkve Krista Kralja. U prizemnoj stojaćoj kući nalazi se zbirka s oko 350 etnoloških izložaka, spomenika svakidašnjice domaćega stanovništva. U zbirci je smješten velik broj kućanskih predmeta koji su služili za prehranu, odijevanje, higijenu, potom stara glazbala, oruđa, itd.

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HUTOVO Željeznička postaja / Railway station

The building of the municipality is also preserved, where local authorities used to meet hold sessions in the period between 1924 and 1945. (The People’s Committee of the Municipality of Hutovo operated in the Raič house between 1945 and 1955). The buildings of the first school (financial administration), farm cooperatives (the first eight-grade primary school started to operate in 1960), the new school (from 1974/75, as part of the Project of „1000 Schools in Bosnia and Herzegovina“) and the Native House called Hutovo, where an ethnological collection is stored. The Native

House called Hutovo is a memorial dedicated to those who lost their lives for faith and homeland. It is situated in a cemetery of the parish church of Christ the King. This ground-floor self-standing structure stores a collection of about 350 ethnological exhibits, reminders of everyday life of the local population. The collection includes a large number of household items which used to serve for eating, clothing, hygiene purposes, as well as old music instruments, tools, and so on.

HUTOVO Zavičajna kuća “Hutovo” / Native house “Hutovo”

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HUTOVO Unutrašnjost zavičajne kuće Interior of the Native house

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Željezničke lampe (fenjeri) Railway lanterns (lamps)

Bukara / Vine pitcher

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Svatovska buklija Wedding feast vine flask

OĹĄtrilo alata (tocilo) Tool sharpener (tocilo)

Kamenica / Kamenica

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HUTOVO Župska crkva Krista Kralja, lapidarij, zavičajna kuća i kapelica Parish church of Christ the King, lapidarium, native house and chapel Kapelica posvećena sv. Luki , sv. Ivanu i gospi Lurdskoj Chapel dedicated to St. Luke, St John and Our Lady of Lourdes

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Ispred Zavičajne kuće i crkve smješten je i lapidarij u kojemu se može vidjeti tridesetak kamenih spomenika sa širega područja Hutova: fosilne ostatke biljaka i životinja stare preko 150 000 godina, rimski miljokaz iz 3. stoljeća, rimsku stelu, srednjovjekovni Radovčev natpis s carine iz 1418. godine, stećke, mletačke željezne kugle za razbijanje zida, kamene ploče s arapskim natpisom s Hutovskoga grada, starinsko gu-

vno i mnoge druge vrijedne kamene spomenike. U crkvi Krista Kralja postavljen je križni put umjetnika Ljube Laha. Dodatnu ljepotu ovome prostoru daje mala crkva, izgrađena 1907., u kojoj je smještena Lurdska špilja. U crkvi posvećenoj sv. Luki, sv. Ivanu i Gospi Lurdskoj nalazimo i kipove spomenutih svetaca.

HUTOVO Zavjetna fontana / Votive fountain

Outfront the Native House and the church there is a collection of stone monuments where about thirty monuments from greater Hutovo can be seen: fossil remains of plants and animals older than 150,000 years, a Roman milestone from the 3rd century, a Roman Stella, the medieval inscription by Radovac on a stone plaque from a custom-house from the year 1418, stećaks, Venetian iron balls for breaking walls, stone plaques with Arabic inscriptions from the castle

of Hutovo, an ancient trashing floor and many more valuable stone monuments. In the church of Christ the King, the Way of the Cross by artist Ljubo Lah is exhibited. An additional value to this area is given by a small church, built in 1907, where the cave of Lourdes is stored. In the church devoted to St. Luke, St. John and Our Lady of Lourdes, we also find statues of these saints.

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HUTOVO Napušteno antičko i srednjovjekovno staro selo Abandoned Antique and Middle Age ancient village

Uz jezero Vrutak nalazi se Oltarište gdje je na Pavlov dan 1525. slavljena sveta misa, što je bio ujedno i prvi spomen Hutova. Vrijedno je spomenuti i kasnoantički lokalitet Crkvine s ostatcima crkve i nekropolom s više od 100 stećaka. U blizini je i nekropola stećaka Karasovice.

Na Donjem Zelenikovcu na ploči (litici) izidana je jedinstvena prastara grobnica. Grobnica je nadsvođena ravnim kamenim krovom na kojemu je manji kameni križ, a u bočnom se zidu nalazi niša za svijeću. Poviše grobnice nalazi se velika prastara čatrnja zvana Grobnica.

KARASOVICE Detalj iz nekropole stećaka / Details of a necropolis of stećaks

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DONJI ZELENIKOVAC Grobnica na litici / Tomb on cliffs

Near the lake of Vrutak there is the altar area where on St. Paul’s Day in 1525 the Holy Mass was celebrated, and that was the first time that Hutovo had been mentioned. Worth mentioning is the late antique site of Crkvine with remains of a church and a necropolis with over 100 stećaks. Close to this site is Krasovice necropolis of stećaks. On Donji Zelenikovac, on a plateau (over a cliff), a unique ancient tomb was constructed. The tomb is clad by a flat stone roof which has a small stone cross on it and a side wall has a niche for a candle. Above the tomb there is a large old rain-water catchment well called Grobnica.

VRUTAK Oltarište / Altar space

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GLUMINA Nekropola stećaka na lokalitetu Međugorje Necropolis of stećaks in Međugorje

Glumina (Galimanaik) se spominje u srednjem vijeku (polovicom 10. st.) kao jedan od zahumskih gradova. Skupina gomila-tumula smještena je na prostoru od Glumine k Međugorju, a u njoj dominiraju dvije između kojih prolazi cesta koja vodi u selo. Na Međugorju nedaleko od Glumine nalazi se jedna od najljepših nekropola stećaka u neumskoj općini.

Glumina (Galimanaik) was mentioned in the Middle Ages (in the mid-10th century) as one of Zahumlje towns. A group of tumuli is located in the area spreading from Glumina toward Međugorje. In Međugorje, nearby Glumine, there is one of the most beautiful necropolis of stećaks in the municipality of Neum. Two of them stand out and a road running to the village is located between them..

Stećak - stup u groblju na Previši Stećak-column in Previša cemetery

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Svetište Kraljice Mira u Donjem Hrasnu, na Cerovici, proglašeno je 1977. godine središnjim marijanskim svetištem Trebinjsko-mrkanske biskupije. Na Gradini se uzdiže kip Majke Božje Kraljice Mira, koga je izradio akademski kipar Ante Starčević iz Zagreba. Do kipa Kraljice Mira vodi nas Križni put, djelo Roberta Kvasine, a odljeve u bronci izradio je akademski kipar Dušan Stanojević. Središnje mjesto zauzima župna crkva iz 1935. godine. U crkvi se od 1989. nalazi i sakralna galerija. Spomenik žrtvama Drugoga svjetskog rata Trebin-

jsko-mrkanske biskupije i župe Hrasno, otkriven 1991. godine, djelo je akademskog kipara Nikole Vučkovića iz Metkovića. Galerija općih i povijesnih slika (njih oko 300) te etnološka zbirka otvorena je 1995. godine. U njoj se čuvaju predmeti koji su žiteljima ovoga kraja služili za život i rad. Nedaleko od svetišta Kraljice Mira je Boškanova (Markova) špilja, zasigurno jedna od najljepših špilja na području općine.

CEROVICA Prilaz svetištu Kraljice Mira Access to the Shrine of the Queen of Peace

The Shrine of the Queen of Peace in Donje Hrasno, on the Cerovica hill, was declared in 1977 as the central Marian shrine of the Diocese of TrebinjeMrkan. On Gradina, a statue of the Mother of God the Queen of Peace is erected, a work of academic sculptor Ante Starčević from Zagreb. To the statue of the Queen of Peace we are led by the Way of the Cross, a work of Robert Kvasina, while bronze casts are made by academic sculptor Dušan Stanojević. A central place is occupied by the parish church dating from 1935. Since 1989, this church has been the home of a sacral gallery. The memorial dedicated to the victims of the World War II of the Diocese of Trebinje-Mrkan and the Parish of Hrasno, uncovered in 1991, is a work of academic sculptor Nikola Vučković from Metković. A gallery of general and historical pictures (about 300 of them) and an ethnological collection were open in 1995. It houses items that the population of this region used for their life and work. A short distance away from the shrine of the Queen of Peace, Boškan (Marko) cave is located, certainly one of the most beautiful caves in the territory of the municipality.

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Svetište Majke Božje Kraljice Mira Shrine of Mother of God the Queen of Peace

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CEROVICA Unutrašnjosr crkve Bezgriješnog Začeća Blažene Djevice Marije Interior of the church of Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary

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CEROVICA Zavičajna kuća Native house

CEROVICA Detalji iz etnološke zbirke Details from ethnological collection

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Na lokalitetu Toplica nalazi se ukrasima bogata nekropola stećaka. Uz nekropolu je Obradovića groblje, gdje se nalazi nova crkvica uz jednu od najstarijih kapelica na području donje Hercegovine. Lokva Toplica i čatrnja iz novijeg doba, ovaj lokalitet čine još zanimljivijim.

TOPLICA Nekropola stećaka Necropolis of stećaks

On the site of Toplica there is a necropolis of stećaks rich in decorations. Next to the necropolis is Obradović’s cemetery, with a new small church next to one of the oldest chapels in the territory of Lower Herzegovina. The Toplica fen and a rain-water catchment well dating from the modern time make this site even more interesting.

TOPLICA crkvica (kapelica) / Small church (chapel)

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Na Brštanici izdvajamo zavjetnu crkvu sv. Ante, uz koju se nalazi vrlo vrijedna nekropola stećaka. Uz nekropolu je velika čatrnja koju su, prema predaji, u srednjem vijeku izgradili dubrovački trgovci. Austrija je, uz gradnju uskotračne pruge, početkom 20. st. izgradila i vodospremu, slivnike, ustave za filtriranje vode iz koje su se vodom opskrbljivale parne lokomotive. Bila je to najveća građevina od armiranoga betona na Balkanu. Vodosprema je sadržavala 7000 m³ vode. Izgradnja saladža počela je krajem 19. st. pri brdu iznad polja i u razini najvišega vodostaja. Ti specifični arhitektonski oblici u Kućinama, Prisoju, Novome putu, Naklu i Pločnim guvnima pripadaju vlasnicima s područja neumske općine. Kukuruz se poslije berbe smještao na sušenje u saladžove, tj. kamene građevine za stanovanje u vrijeme radova u polju i smještaj oraće opreme i oruđa kojim se radilo u polju. BRŠTANICA Nekropola stećaka uz crkvu sv. Ante Necropolis of stećaks next to the Church of St. Anthony

Vodosprema / Water reservoir

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On Brštanica, we wish to single out the votive church of St. Anton, next to which there is a very valuable necropolis of stećaks. By the necropolis, there is a large rain-water catchment well, which, tradition has it, was built by the merchants of Dubrovnik. At the beginning of the 20th century, while constructing the narrow-gauge railway line, Austria built also a water reservoir, drains, dams for water filtration, which supplied steam engines and locomotives with water. It was the largest structure made of reinforced concrete in the Balkans. The water reservoir contained 7000 m³ of water. Construction of grain stores, known locally as saladže, started near the end of the 19th century close to the hill above the field and at the level of the maximum water level. These peculiar architectural forms in Kućine, Prisoje, Novi Put, Naklo and Pločna guvna belong to owners from the territory of the municipality of Neum. These grain stores were used to dry corn and for people to stay there while working in the fields, as well as to store plowing equipment and tools used for the work.

BRŠTANICA Detalj s stećka / Stećak details

DOBRI DO Saladž na Pločnim gumnima Grain store (saladž) in Pločna gumna

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GORNJE HRASNO Župska crkva Krista Kralja (sv. Nikola) Parish church of Christ the King (St. Nicholas)

Središte Gornjega Hrasna smješteno je u Grahovištu, u kojemu se nalazila osnovna škola iz 1899. godine, crkva Krista Kralja (sv. Nikole) izgrađena 1909. godine, s čatrnjom i župnim stanom, te gospodarski objekti. Na Podgradinju je pravoslavna crkva posvećena sv. Jovanu, izgrađena 1900. godine. Uz crkvu je pravoslavno groblje i nekropola stećaka. Manja nekropola stećaka nalazi se i na Lastvi. U Rabranima (Tucakovina) ima mekteb, islamska vjerska škola.

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PODGRADINJE Detalji s nekropole stećaka Details of stećak necropolis

The centre of Gornje Hrasno is situated at Grahovište, where there was a primary school dating from 1899, the Church of Our Christ the King (St. Nicholas) built in 1909, with a rain-water catchment well and parish apartment, including outhouses. On Podgradinje, there is an Orthodox church devoted to St. John, constructed in 1900. By the church there is an Orthodox cemetery and a necropolis of stećaks. A smaller necropolis of stećaks is also found on Lastva. In Rabrani (Tucakovina) there is a mekteb, an Islamic religious school.

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4. PRIRODNE ZNAMENITOSTI NEUMSKOGA ZALEĐA SIGHTS OF NATURE IN NEUM’ S HINTHERLAND Malo je reći kako je neumsko zaleđe osebujan kraj po mnogo čemu, a posebice u pogledu svoje geološke i morfološke građe. Bolje je reći kako je to gotovo jedincat prostor našega Jadrana, gdje se zaleđe duboko i intimno proželo s morskim i istodobno izdvojilo u zaseban oblik prostora našega planeta; ni kopno ni more jest jednako i kopno i more. Zbog složenosti geološke i inženjersko-geološke građe, tektonske razlomljenosti i litološke raznolikosti, vodi se pružila prilika da, više nego igdje drugdje, stvori mnoštvo svoga umjetničkoga, krškog biserja poput škrapa i ponikva, ponora i jama, špilja i pećina, kamenica i lokava, provalija ili obodina… Ali je i zemljina endodinamika ovdje bila posebno nadahnuta u stvaranju morfoloških oblika koji su, jednostavno, čovjeka primoravali dati im i posebna imena poput: Žaba, Kiševo, Žrnjevo, Dobrovo i slično. Općenito, morfološki oblici su ulančani i pokoravaju se općemu dinarskom smjeru pružanja sjeverozapad – jugoistok, ali su gdjegdje ipak izraženoga i dopadljivoga morfološkog

individualizma, kao da su se istrgli iz svoga okruženja te zauzeli pozicije koje obično stvara i vjetar, pušući i raznoseći prašinu po kakvoj čistini. Dovoljno je popeti se na kotu Budisavinu i baciti pogled na jug te uočiti blago i dopadljivo zatalasani krški reljef. Razvojem procesa okršavanja i voda se s površine spustila na erozijski bazis, a vrlo vjerojatno i mnoge biljne i životinjske vrste s njom. Tu, u utrobi kamena, stvorili su novo životno stanište, jedincato na cijelom svijetu. Tu su se i susrele biljne i životinjske vrste iz mora i s kopna. Međutim, proporcionalno opisanoj zamršenosti prirode neumskoga zaleđa, povećao se i rizik od lošega, a često i fatalnog utjecaja čovjeka na nju. Opisati prirodu neumskoga zaleđa posebno je teška i odgovorna zadaća. Učinimo to jednom šetnjom sa sjeveroistoka na jugozapad njegova prostora. Neka nam u toj šetnji orijentir bude isječak lista Osnovne geološke karte, list Ston. Na toj su karti crnom crtom označene granice općine Neum

It would be an understatement to say that Neum’s hinterland is a peculiar part of the country in many ways, especially in regard to its geological and morphological framework. Suffice it to say that this is a unique area in our part of the Adriatic, where the hinterland is deeply and intimately imbued with the maritime space but at the same time becomes a separate form of space on our planet; neither the land nor the sea, but also, paradoxically, each of the two, the land and the sea alike. Due to complexity of its geological and engineeringgeological framework, tectonic crushing and lithological diversity, water got the chance to, more then anywhere else, create a variety of its natural art forms, karstic pearls, such as grykes and karst sinkholes, swallow-holes and dolines, chasms and grottoes, caves and cavities, sinter pools, kamenitzas (water pots) and karst fens, abysses and cliffs… What is more, at this place the earth’s endodynamics was also particularly inspired to create morphological forms which were simply urging the man to give them peculiar names such as: Žaba (etym. from root word: frog), Kiševo (etym. from root word: rain), Žrnjevo (etym. from root word: grindstone), Dobrovo (etym. most likely from root word: oak, good) and the like. In general, these morphological forms concatenate and fall into a northwest–southeast line, paralell with the general

direction of the Dinaric Alps or Dinarides (the so-called “Dinaric” orientation), but here and there they still have a distinctive and eye-catching morphological individuality, as if they broke free from their surroundings and took the positions that are normally created by winds, by blowing and dispersing dust above some glade. It is enough to climb up and reach the elevations of Budisavina Hill and cast an eye to the south in order to observe a mildly and pleasingly undulating karst relief. As a result of development of the karstification process, water also dropped down from the surface to the erosion basis level, and quite likely as a result of that a great number of plant and animal species descended with it. Here, in the stone bowels, they created a new habitat, unique in the whole world. This is where plant and animal species from the sea encounter their counterparts from the land. However, commensurably to the described complexity of the nature of Neum’s hinterland, the risk of detrimental but often fatal human effects on the nature has increased. To describe the nature of Neum’s hinterland is a quite difficult and responsible task. So let’s do it in a single ride from northeast to southwest of its area. Let a page of the General Geological Map be our guide in this ride, the page featuring the town of Ston. On that map, the black line represents the borders of Neum Municipality.

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Isječak osnovne geološke karte, list Ston, / (crnom bojom ucrtana granica općine Neum) An excerpt from the general geological map, page featuring Ston (black color denotes the border of Neum Municipality)

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Budisavina - pogled na Hutovo blato Budisavina â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a view of Hutovo Blato

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Kada se iz svitavskoga bazena popnete na kršku zaravan Hrasna te odatle pukne pogled na Hutovsko blato, s vaše sjeverne strane ističe se kota Budisavina. Gotovo na samome njezinu vrhu dočekuje vas izvor pitke vode, gusto obrastao u šaš i travu. S kote Budisavine puca nezaboravan pogled na donju Hercegovinu, posebice na poznati Park prirode Hutovo blato. Ako pogled svrnete na jug, vidite zatalasanu morfologiju vapnenačkih kota pretvorenih u ljuti krš i obraslih niskim raslinjem. Jedna od tih kota danas je i Svetište Kraljice Mira – Donje Hrasno.

Panorama Budisavine - pogled prema jugu Budisavina panorama – a view to south

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Visoravan na Budisavini / Plateau on Budisavina

Budisavina - izvor pitke vode / Budisavina – spring of potable water

When from the Svitava basin you climb up the karst plain of Hrasno from which there is a magnificent view of Hutovsko Blato (a marshland Nature park and Bird Reserve), on your north side you can see another distinctive land feature – the elevation of Budisavina Hill. Nearly on its very peak there is a spring of drinking water to welcome you, densely overgrown with sedge, reed and grass. From Budisavine Hill there is a magnificent and unforgettable view of Lower Herzegovina, particuarly the view of the widely-known Nature park Hutovo Blato. If you turn your eyes to the south, you will see the undulating morphology of limestone heights turned into a rugged karst and overgrown with underbrush. On one of these heights there is today the Sanctuary of Our Lady Queen of Peace – Donje Hrasno.

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U povratku s Budisavine dolazi se do križišta cesta za Neum, Stolac i Čapljinu, te skrećemo prema selu Brštanici i Cerovu. Cilj je promotriti planinu-brdo Žabu. Ona tako izgleda promatraču koji je promatra cijelim putem od Cerovice do Hutova. Promatrano s pozicije sela Cerova, na Žabi se jasno ističu dvije uglačane tektonske plohe zvane Viline ploče, mala i velika. Za njih se vežu razne legende. Jedna kaže da na njima vile noću igraju kola, što se zapaža po svjetiljkama nalik na zapaljene svijeće, koje tu noću padaju. Neke svijeće su veće i to su vi-

linske predvodnice, a one manje kupe se oko njih. Obrušavanje Vilinih ploča proriče velika i tragična svjetska događanja. U podnožju Žabe, s njezine sjeverne strane, je tipično krško polje Cerovo. Riječ je o plitkoj kvartarnoj naplavini crvenice oko fosilnih ponora. Danas su ti ponori, barem u svome površinskom dijelu, umireni i potpuno zatrpani crvenicom. Njezina debljina varira ovisno o paleoreljefu vapnenačke podine. Na njemu se razvilo idilično hercegovačko selo Cerovo.

Pogled na Viline ploče View of Viline ploče

On our way back from Budisavine heights, we come to the intersection of roads that head for Neum, Stolac and Čapljina respectively, and take turn to the village of Brštanica and Cerovo. The aim is to examine closely the mount-hill Žaba. This is how it looks like in the eye of the beholder who is closely watching it on the entire way back from Cerovica to Hutovo. Viewed from the direction of Cerovo village, two burnished tectonic plate stand out as prominent features on Mount Žaba and they are called Viline ploče (Fairy Plates), a small and a large one. Various legends are related about them. One legend says that fairies dance there by night, which is observed by lanterns that resemble lit candles falling there by 106

night. Some candles have larger flames and they are considered as fairy front-runners, while those flickering with smaller flames are gathering around them. Collapse of Viline ploče foretells some earth-shaking and tragic world events. In the foothills of Mount Žaba, or specifically north of it, there is a typical karst field called Cerovo. This is a shallow Quaternary inundation of terra rosa around some fossil swallets or swallow holes. Today, swallets are, at least on their surface, tempered and completely covered by terra rosa. Its thickness varies depending on the paleorelief of the limestone floor. An idyllic Herzegovinian village, Cerovo, developed on this floor.

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CEREVO Panorama

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Nekih 500 metara daleko od svetišta Kraljice Mira znamenita je Markova pećina. Riječ je o presušenom ponoru površinske vode, koju je pećina odvodila u sustav podzemnog vodotoka prema Svitavi. Danas je prohodna kojih stotinu metara, a u literaturi je zabilježena dužina od oko 200 metara. Promatranju su lako dostupne dvije visoko zasvođene galerije bogato urešene pećinskim nakitom.

CEROVICA Markova pećina Markova pećina (cave)

Some 500 meters far from the Sanctuary of Our Queen of Peace there is the renowned cave of Markova pećina. It is an overdried swallet of surface water conducted through the cave to the underground watercourse system towards Svitava. Today, it is 108

passable on the stretch of around one hundred meters, while scientific references recorded the length of around 200 meters. Readily observable are two highly domed galleries richly adorned with stalactites and stalagmites.

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Vraćamo se komadić puta, pa skrećemo ulijevo, cestom za Stolac. Cilj nam je lokalitet Toplica. Toplica je lokva u kojoj se voda zadržava uglavnom cijele godine. No što je Toplica bila u prošlosti, veliko je pitanje. Locirana je na putu migracije podzemnih voda prema Svitavi. Vjerojatno je ovdje riječ o jednome od najvećih podzemnih speleoloških sustava u cijelome svijetu. Tuda prolaze i vode koje se iz Popova polja upućuju prema Svitavi. Valja napomenuti da je hidrotehnički tunel, koji polazi iz Popova polja i vodi vodu u hidroelektranu Čapljina u Svitavi, morao napraviti devijaciju oko toga speleološkog sustava. Na Toplici je i veliko groblje, sadašnje a dijelom još iz srednjega vijeka, nekropola stećaka, što je također znakovito. Nalazimo i mnogo pećinskoga kamena – zečje soli (općenito sedra-bigar), čistoga kalcita nastaloga kapanjem vode u pećinama ili pak na izvorima vode. Geofizička istraživanja na ovom lokalitetu pokazala su kako se speleološki objekti smjenjuju sve do dubine od oko 400 metara. Pećinski kamen Cave stone

Lokva na Toplici / Karst fen in Toplica

We go back along a short stretch of road, then turn left to take the road leading to Stolac. Our aim is the site called Toplica. Toplica is a karst fen in which water remains stagnant mostly for the entire year. But what Toplica really was in the past, it is an open question. Whatever it was, it is situated on the way of ground waters migration to Svitava. This is likely one of the largest underground speleological systems in the whole world. This is also the point of passage of a body of water that springs out in Popovo Polje and heads for Svitava. It is worth noting that a hydro-engineering tunnel, stretching from Popovo Polje valley and conducting water to hydroelectric power plant in

Čapljina, had to bypass this speleological system in Svitava. In Toplica there is also a cemetery, a part of which is still in use nowadays, but a part of which is dated even from the Middle Ages as a necropolis of stećak tombstones, which is also very indicative. We also find here a great quantity of cave stone – locally known as rabbit salt (generally sinter, tufa or travertine), formed of pure calcite created by water-dropping in caves or even in water springs. Geophysical research on this site shows that speleological objects alternate continuously down to the level of around 400 meters deep.

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Iz Toplice krećemo krškom zaravni prema Gornjem Hrasnu. Nekih kilometar prije stare župne crkve, udaljena od ceste kojih 500 metara, znamenita je jama-ponor Dvogrla. Ime je dobila po dva ulaza, jedan tik do drugoga. Prema kazivanju onih koji su ovu jamu istraživali, poslije vertikalnoga spusta u podzemne kanale i galerije, slijedi mnogo blaži nagib te nekolike kristalne dvorane, među najljepšim na našim prostorima. Čini se kako je jama razvijena na jednoj antiklinalnoj strukturi, kad je „obješena“ o slojeve te zbog toga ima dva ulaza. Razvila se erozijskim proširivanjem međuslojne pukotine, te je prvotno bila u ulozi ponora. No razvojem okršavanja i spuštanjem erozijskog bazisa barem u svojim gornjim dijelovima, ostala je suha. Razvijena je na razmeđu tokova podzemne vode, one prema Svitavi i one prema sinklinali Bjelojevići. Jama Dvogrla / Dvogrla doline cave (“the so-called two-throat cave”)

From Toplica we move along a karst plane towards Gornje Hrasno. Approximately one kilometer before the old parish church, around 500 meters far from the road, there is a well-known doline cave Dvogrla (etym. two-throats). It got its name after two intakes, one close by the other. According to the narration of those who were examining this cave, after almost a vertical descent into its underground channels and galleries, there follows a much gentler inclination and several crystal halls and chambers, among the best ones in this part of the world. It appears that the 110

cave is developed on an anticlinal structure, since it is „hanged“ onto the layers and as a result it has two inlets. It developed by erosional enlargement of an interstratal crack, so it had an original role of a swallet. However, through the development of karstification process and the descent of erosional base at least in its upper parts, it remained dry. It was developed on the dividing line between the streams of ground water, the one towards Svitava and the one towards Bjelojevići syncline.

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Treba se sada vratiti koji kilometar, kako bi vam Rogonjića obodina došla točno na jug, kojih dva kilometra pješačkom stazom, obraslom u smreku i draču. Ali kad promatrate Rogonjića obodinu, shvatite da se trud isplatio. Spada u red velikih obodina, poput onih u okolici Imotskoga, ili obodine Vrbina u okolici jezera Krenice u općini Grude. I za ovu obodinu vezane su legende o vilama.

U blizini je i veća lokva zvana Selešnica. U selu Vjetreniku nalazi se umjetna lokva-bunar. Uz nju je veća kamenica, priča se kako ju je isklesao Stojan Balić iz Turkovića. Za nagradu su mu je nasuli prosom. Vrlo je zanimljivo kako su domaći kotu Vjetrenik zvali Mliništa, budući da tu vjetar „melje“ po cijeli dan. Kota je inače vrlo zanimljiva s aspekta korištenja energije vjetra.

Rogonjića obodina Rogonjića obodina (edgecliff)

We should get back a few kilometers so that Rogonjić Obodina (edgecliff) is exactly south of you, around two kilometers by footpath overgrown with juniper and thorn-bush. But when you observe Rogonjić Obodina, you understand that your effort paid off. It fall within the group of huge obodina/edgecliff, like those in the area of Imotski, or Vrbina obodina in the area of Krenice Lake in Grude Municipality. Fairy legends are also related about this edgecliff. There is also a large karst fen nearby called Selešnica.

In Vjetrenik village there is an artificial fen-well. Next to it there is a large kamenitza (water pot). The story goes that it was chiseled out by Stojan Balić from the village of Turković. As a reward for that feat, people filled the fen-well with millet for him. It is very interesting to know why Vjetrenik heights were called Mliništa (etym. from root word mill or grind spot) by the locals; it is because winds „grind“ there all day long. These heights are otherwise very interesting from the point of view of wind energy utilization.

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HRASNO Panorama

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HUTOVO Panorama

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Panorama Hutova / Panorama Hutova

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Previš panorama

Iz Hutova se penjemo na vjetrovitu kršku zaravan Previš, oko 400 metara nad morem. S te zaravni puca pogled na Hutovo i selo Gluminu. Odatle se, konjskom stazom, može spustiti i do Popova polja, prolazeći pritom pokraj zanimljive lokve Umlenice.

Previš - lokva Umlenica Previš, Umlenica karst fen

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PREVIŠ Detalj iz sela / Village details

From Hutovo we climb up to reach a windy karst plane called Previš, around 400 meters above sea level. From that plain there is a magnificent view of Hutovo and Glumina. From there, on a horse-path, we can go down to Popovo Polje valley, passing on our way through the fascinating Umlenice karst fens..

PREVIŠ Kamenica uklesana u stećku Kamenica carved in stećak

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PREVIŠ Gumno / Trashing floor (gumno)

GLUMINA Panorama

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GLUMINA Lokva / Karst fen

PREVIŠ Pogled na jezero Vrutak View of Lake Vrutak

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POPOVO POLJE Jezero Vrutak Vrutak Lake

Kad se iz Hutova pođe put Ravnoga, dođe se do zapadnog oboda Popova polja. Danas je tu akumulacija Vrutak i ulazna građevina hidrotehničkog tunela koji vodi vodu na hidroelektranu Čapljina u Svitavi. A zapravo je to jedna velika ponorna zona, razvijena vje-

rojatno u uvjetima tektonskoga rova. Izvođači radova na gradnji ove akumulacije pričaju kako su ovdje pronašli mnoštvo volovskih koža, koje su prekrivale aktivne zone ponora (narodski: jame proždrikože) radi sprječavanja erozije zemlje u dubinu.

Popovo Polje / Popovo Polje valley

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POPOVO POLJE Rijeka Trebišnjica / River Trebišnjica

When from Hutovo we depart to Ravno village, we arrive at the west brink of Popovo Polje valley. Today, there is an impounded reservoir Vrutak and an uptake structure of a hydro-engineering tunnel conducting water to the hydroelectric power plant Čapljina in Svitava. This is in fact an enormous water stream sink zone, likely de-

veloped in the conditions of a tectonic tube. Contractors that were engaged in the construction of this reservoir tell that they discovered many ox hides spread there to cover the active zone of swallets (common people used to refer to them as: sinkholes hide-devourers) in order to prevent soil erosion into the stone deeps.

POPOVO POLJE Jama Crnulja Jama Crnulja karst shaft

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U blizini Vrutka, a po obodu polja, razvijeno je mnoštvo znamenitih ponora. Svi su oni nastali prodorom vode iz polja, za velikih poplava, u porozni vapnenački masiv. Vezani su ili za tektonske razlomne strukture ili međuslojne plohe bankovitih slojeva vapnenca. Svakako treba istaknuti ponor Doljašnicu (općina Ravno) i ponor Crnulju, s oltarnim kamenom i legendom u kojoj sveti Petar ubija đavla, te je zidove pećine poprskala njegova krv. Te mrlje zapravo potječu od unosa željezovite komponente (limonit, getit) vodom koja ponire. Tu je zatim Ponikva, a na južnom obodu polja i Žira, koja odvodi vodu prema moru. Ovi ponori daju onu vodu koja protječe krškom zaravni Hrasna prema Hutovu blatu i sinklinali Bjelojevići.

POPOVO POLJE Jama Ponikva Ponikva shaft

Nearby Vrutak reservoir and along the edge of the valleys, a number of famous swallets have developed. They all emerged as a result of violent water inflows coming from the fields, during great inundations, and pouring into the cracks of the porous limestone massif. They are related either to tectonic crushing structures or interstratal plates of the bedding-plane limestone deposits. Indeed, what else deserves to be mentioned are also Doljašnica (Ravno Municipality) and Crnulja swallets, with an altar stone and a legend according to which St Peter kills Satan and his blood sprinkles on the cave walls. In fact, those specks originate from inputs of iron components (limonite, getite) by way of the sinking water streams. Then, there is Ponikva doline sinkhole on the south edge of the field and Žira swallet, which conduits water towards the sea. These swallets provide the water that is running through the karst plane of Hrasno towards Hutovo Blato and Bjelojevići syncline. 122

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Na putu za Gradac i dalje prema Neumu, prolazi se pokraj staroga ruševnoga Hutovskog grada, a malo dalje, s lijeve strane, ističu se zanimljive stijene. Narod ih zove „kamen koji gori“. I zaista, to je kamen koji gori. Riječ je o gornjokrednim vapnencima i dolomitima (K2,1.2 ) u kojima su zabilježene pojave bituminiziranih dolomita, dolomitičnih vapnenaca i vapnenaca. Ističu se karakterističnom kolačastom ispucalošću, a zbog bitumena i gore.

PRAPATNICA “kamen koji gori” - bituminizirani �� dolomit „Burning stone“ – bituminized dolomite

On the way to Gradac and further toward Neum, we pass by an ancient dilapidated Hutov Grad (town), and a bit further, on the left, some interesting stones stand out. People call them „burning stones“. And, truly, these stones are still burning. They are actually the Upper/Late Cretaceous limestone and dolomites (K2,1.2 ) in regard of which there are recorded phenomena of bituminized dolomites, dolomite limestone and limestone. They are prominent by their typical cone-like crushing forms, whereas bitumen is the reason of their burning. PRAPATNICA Panorama sela Village panorama

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ŽABA Pogled s južne strane View from south

S ovog puta motri se i Žaba s njezine južne strane. Ubrani antiklinalni slojevi ovdje se slabije ističu, budući da su jače tektonski poremećeni. Ali je zato tu više tipičnih krških oblika, špilja, pećina i okapnica. Tu je i znamenita Strašna peć. Spominju se još Milišića i Tetina peć te Čobanska, Goveđa i Ovčja peć. Zbog takve složene geološke strukture, uz Gradačko polje, vezani su i različiti prirodni fenomeni. Dio pol-

ja je vododrživ, s pojavom visećega hidrogeološkog kolektora, a dio je vodopropustan, s razvojem ponora. Na dodiru tih dviju hidrogeoloških serija pojavljuju se izvori i ponori na malom međusobnom razmaku, do 20 metara. Izvor je na kontaktu vodonepropustnih (klastične naslage eocena) i vodopropustnih slojeva, a ponor na vodopropustnim. Tako izvorska voda teče samo kojih dvadesetak metara te ponire u ponornoj zoni. To su lokaliteti Javič i Dobroštik.

Polje u Broćancu Field in Broćanac

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GRADAC Izvor Dobroštik Dobroštik spring

From this road, Mount Žaba and its south slopes are also observable. Anticlinal strata folds are less pronounced here, since they were much more affected by strong tectonic disturbances. But in consequence there are many typical karstic forms, caves, cavities, grottoes, cave-drippings. There is also the famous cave Strašna Peć (etym. Frightful Furnace). Similar references to caves as furnaces are made also to other caves such as Milišića Peć (etym. root word = antroponym, family name Milišić) and Tetina Peć (etym. root word = antroponym) and Čobanska Peć (etym. root word = shepherd), Goveđa and Ovčja Peć (etym. root word = bovine and ovine). Due to such complex geological structures, Gradačko

Polje (Gradac Field) is also collocated with various natural phenomena. One part of the field is waterimpermeable, with the occurrence of a suspended hydro-geological collector, whereas the other part is water-permeable, with the developed swallets and sinkholes. Interface between these two hydro-geological series is marked by the occurrence of springs and swallets within a relatively small distance of maximum 20 meters. The spring is at the point of contact with impermeable (clastic Eocene deposits) and permeable layers, whereas the swallet is located on permeable layers. Thus the spring water runs only about 20 meters and then sinks down in the sinkhole zone. These sites are called Javič and Dobroštik.

GRADAC Izvor Javič Javič spring

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GRADAC Panorama

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GRADAC Ponor Gradnica / Gradnica swallet

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Na samome jugoistočnom obodu polja, a s njegove južne strane, znameniti je ponor Gradnica. On povremeno izbacuje goleme količine vode u polje (izvor), kad je razina podzemne vode u okolnim stijenama iznad otvora ponora, a potom tu istu vodu vraća u podzemlje (ponor), kad se razina vode u okolnim stijenama snizi. Iznad ponora Gradnice dvije su uglačane vapnenačko-dolomitične ploče. To su također tektonske strukture, nalik onima na Žabi. Ta sličnost ih je i uvela u svijet legendi. Legenda kaže kako su vile nosile one poznate ploče sa Žabe nekamo u Dalmaciju, te su se umorile i spustile ploče baš iznad Gradnice. I danas se tu nalaze. Znamenitost Graca je i veća lokva zvana Rosava s pučevima (zdencima) sa živom vodom. U mjestu Dobrovu također se nalazi lokva, zvana Kečina lokva. Ako iz sela Žukovica skrenemo lijevo kojih dva kilometra, dijelom makadamskim putem, dijelom uskom pješačkom stazom, dolazimo do Šaraića peći, jedinstvene prirodne speleološke pojave. Put koji vodi do nje presijeca duge, uske tektonske zone, koje se penju prema vrhu Žabe. Na jednoj od njih je razvijena i znamenita Šaraića peć. Prvotno je bila ponor, ali je ostala bez vode, barem u svome početnom dijelu. Veličanstven je to prirodni fenomen. Taj dojam uvećava i pojava prirodnoga kamenog svoda (mosta) na ulazu u pećinu. Predaja govori kako se svod pećine urušio za velikoga dubrovačkog potresa 1667. godine, te je most tako i nastao.

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Šaraića peć / Interior �� of the Šaraića peć

On the very southeast edge of the field and south of it, there is a swallow hole called Gradnica. Occasionally, it throws up enormous quantities of water into the field (spring), when the level of ground water among the surrounding stones is above the swallet hole level, and then in turn the same water is taken back underground (swallet) once the water level in the surrounding stones is reduced. Above the swallet of Gradnica, there are two burnished limestone-dolomite planes. These are also tectonic structures similar to those on Mount Žaba. This similarity has taken them into the world of legends. A legend says that fairies took those known slabs from Mount Žaba and carried them away somewhere to Dalmatia, but got tired and dropped them right above Gradnica; these slabs are still there today. Most important feature of Gradac is a spacious water pot called Rosava with water reservoirs (wells, locally puč) with ionazed alkaline water. In the place of Dobrovo there is also a karst fen, called Kečina Lokva. If from the village of Žukovica we turn left and continue for about two kilometers, partly on a macadam road and partly on a narrow foot-path, we will get to Šaraića Peć, a unique natural speleological phenomenon. The road leading to it cuts accross long, narrow tectonic zones that climb up towards the top of Mount Žaba. On one of them there is the well-developed and famous Šaraića peć. Originally, it was a swallet, but it remained without water, at least in its initial section. This is a magnificent natural phenomenon. This impression is also intensified by its natural stone arched ceiling (bridge) at the cave’s entrance. Oral tradition says that the cave’s arched ceiling collapsed during the Dubrovnik earthquake in 1667 and as a consequence the bridge was created.

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RADETIĆI Beširov kamen Beširov rock

Petstotinjak metara naprijed prema Radetićima, s desne strane je Bijela strana a lijevo je Litica. To su uglačane kamene površine, što treba zahvaliti njihovoj homogenosti te jednakoj sklonosti otapanju djelovanjem vode. Voda koja ih je plavila sa sobom je donosila otopljene kristale kalcita te ih u obliku mlazova tu i taložila. Tako su nastale bijele mrlje po uglačanom kamenu. Legenda je bijele pjege na kamenu protumačila kao krv nevine dječice, pastira, koji su iz Dalmacije tu dotjerali ovce da ih napasu, a pobili su ih Turci. Moguće je da se nešto slično tu i dogodilo, te je tako nastala ova narodna pripovijest.

RADETIĆI Litica -Precipice (smooth rock)

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GORNJI DRIJEN Lokva / Karst fen

Around five hundred meters forward, towards Radetići, there is Bijela Strana (etym. white slope) on the right and Litica (etym. cliff) on the left side. They are burnished stone surfaces whose existence is due to their homogeneous features and equal solubility by action of water. Water that flooded them brought with it dissolved crystals of calcite and in the form of spurts settled them there on the bottom. So many white specks emerged on the surface of burnished stone. A legend interpreted those white specks on the stone as blood of innocent children, shepherds, who took their sheep from Dalmatia here for pasture, but were killed by Turks. It is possible that something similar actually happened here, giving rise to this popular narrative.

RADETIĆI Pištet / Pištet

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MOŠEVIĆI Kamene naslage na Brestovoj Glavici Stone beds on Brestova glavica

Kad se iz Gradačkog polja krene prema Neumu, geološke strukture postaju sve češće i sve zamršenije. Najčešće su to borane strukture, polegle i prevrnute. Susreću se i rasjedi, normalni i reversni. Zato je potrebno stati u polju Moševići, pokraj male kamene crkvice. Slijedeći Napoleonovu cestu u smjeru Metkovića, dolazi se u selo Dračevice. Tu se opet susrećemo, oči

u oči, s čelom Navlake visokoga krša. Dio obiteljskih kuća građen je tik uz nju. Nailazimo na jednu razvijenu hidrogeološku izdan u stijeni s mnoštvom kamenica sa zalihom pitke vode koja je stoljećima održavala ovaj mali ekosustav. Iz Dračevica je lijepo promatrati kupolasti vrh brda Žrnjeva, te uočiti kako mu je oblik nastao kao presjek nekoliko većih tektonskih ploha.

DUŽI Početak dinarida Initial section of the Dinarides

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BRESTICA Kuća i čatrnja u stijeni House and rain-water catchment well built in stone

Once we depart from Gradačko Polje to Neum we can see that geological structures become ever more frequent and perplexing. Most often they are furrowed structures, flat and turned over. We can also encounter faults, normal and reversed. This is why we should stop in Moševići Polje, next to a small stone church. Following Napoleon’s route in the direction of Metković, we get to the village of Dračevice. Here we meet again, face to face, with the forefront of the High Karst Belt . A certain number of family houses were built very close to it. We encounter a well-developed hydro-geological ground water reservoir in stone with a number of kamenitzas (water pots) containing a reserve of potable water that has preserved this small ecosystem for centuries. From Dračevice, there is a nice view of the domed peak of Žrnjevo Hill and its is easy to spot that its shape was created as an intersection of several larger tectonic plates. DRAČEVICE Izvor vode / Water spring

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BRESTICA Pogled na Kuta View of Kuta

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Pogled na neumski zaljev View of Neum gulf

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5. RAZVOJ GOSPODARSTVA U OPĆINI NEUM ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT OF THE MUNICIPALITY Kao početak razvoja turizma u Neumu može se smatrati 1911. godina, kad austro-ugarski namještenici u Neumu traže od Zemaljske vlade da im izgradi neki smještajni objekt i uredi dio plaže za njihove obitelji, koje bi oni koristili tijekom ljeta. Velika praznina u razvoju neumskoga turizma potrajat će sve do sredine 50-ih godina prošloga stoljeća. Značajne godine u razvoju samog Neuma i neumskog turizma: - 1952. počinje se graditi odmaralište PTT radnika BiH na mjestu ribarnice. Kasnije se odmaralište dograđuje i ima smještajni kapacitet oko 60 ležaja. - 1955. godine izgrađeno je odmaralište šumarskih radnika. - Nešto poslije slijedi gradnja Centralnog restorana i autokampa. - 1959. godine Neum dobiva vodu iz izvorišta Blace. - 1962. godine Neum dobiva električnu energiju.

- Jadranska magistrala prolazi kroz Neum 1965. - Slijedi izgradnja brojnih odmarališta: - odmaralište zdravstvenih radnika s oko 50 ležaja. - odmaralište grafičkih radnika s 10 ležaja. - odmaralište CKSKBiH s 45 ležaja. - odmaralište Željezare Zenica s 80 ležaja. - odmaralište Skupštine općine Tuzla s 50 ležaja na mjestu stare kuće obitelji Butigan. - odmaralište Feroelektra iz Sarajeva s 80 ležaja. - odmaralište radnika bolnice Kasindol iz Sarajeva s 20 ležaja. - kompleks garsonijera i stanova poznat po imenu Pliva-Jajce, gdje je više od 10 vlasnika

NEUM (početkom 60-tih godina prošlog stoljeća) / NEUM (early 60s of the 20th century) Odmaralište ptt i šumarskih radnika Resort for PTT and forestry workers

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The year of 1911 can be considered as a start of the development of tourism in Neum when the Austro-Hungarian employees in Neum asked the National Government to build some accommodation capacity for them and develop a part of the beach for their families, which they would be using during summer. A huge gap in the development of the tourism of Neum was going to last until the middle of the 50’s of the last century. There have been several important years in the development of Neum itself and the tourism in it. - In 1952, in the place of a fish-market, construction of a holiday resort for the workers of PTT BiH Postal Public Company started. Later this establishment was fully developed and it had about 60 beds. - In 1955 a holiday establishment for forestry workers was built ater followed by the construction of a central restaurant and an auto-camp. - After followed by the construction of a central restaurant and an auto-camp. - In 1959 Neum got water supply from the well of Blace - in 1962 it received electricity - The Adriatic main road, known as Jadranska magistrala, reached Neum in 1965 - and then the construction of numerous holiday establishments started: - the holiday resort of health workers with about 50 beds - the one of printing industry workers with 10 beds - the holiday resort of the Central Committee of the League of Communists of BiH with 45 beds - the holiday resort of Željezara Zenica steel factory with 80 beds - the holiday resort of the Municipal Assembly of Tuzla with 50 beds (in the place of the old house of the Butigan family) - the holiday resort of company Feroelektro, Sarajevo, with 80 beds - the holiday resort of the workers of Kasindol Hospital in Sarajevo with 20 beds - complex of studio-flats and flats known as Pliva-Jajce where there are more than 10 owners

NEUM Plaža ispred odmarališta željezare Zenica (današnji hotel Zenit) Beach facing the resort for Zenica steel factory workers (today’s „Zenit“ Hotel, in early 60s of the 20th century)

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Neum poslije prolaska jadranske magistrale Neum after construction of the Adriatic main road

S izgradnjom odmarališta grade se i sadržaji koji služe ugodnijem boravku gostiju: ugostiteljske radnje, trgovine, tržnica, mjesna i turistička infrastruktura. Općina Čapljina dodjeljuje prve lokacije pojedincima koji grade kuće za odmor, ili kasnije obiteljsko-stambene kuće. U to vrijeme počinje se graditi prvi hotel u Neumu – Dom penzionera Neum (današnji hotel „Neum“). Osnivanjem općine Neum 29. prosinca 1977. stvaraju se pretpostavke za ubrzani gospodarski razvoj, koristeći prije svega kvalitetne prirodne resurse (24,5 km razvedene morske obale). U vrijeme osnivanja, općina Neum bila je izrazito nerazvijena, bez ijednoga gospodarskog subjekta. Glavna okosnica razvoja u primorskom dijelu bio je turizam, a u zaleđu ekstenzivno gospodarstvo. Turizam je bio socijalno-odmarališnog tipa. Glavnu

turističku ponudu činila su odmarališta tadašnjih većih poduzeća, a privatni smještaj bio je skroman. Gospodarska infrastruktura bila je nedovoljna i za postojeće smještajne objekte. Tu se posebno misli na neredovitu opskrbu električnom energijom i mali kapacitet lokalnoga vodovoda Blace (oko 4 l/s). Ovakvo stanje i potrebe uvjetovali su da je tijekom 1978., nakon svestranoga znanstvenog i stručnog rada, prihvaćen dokument „Koncept dugoročnog razvoja primorskog dijela općine Neum“, koji je bio i ostao temelj i okosnica svih budućih razvojnih planova, bilo generalnih ili parcijalnih. Koncept je potvrdio izrazito vrijedne prirodne resurse neumskoga područja (nenarušenost i prirodnu očuvanost neumskoga područja, kvalitetu mora, ugodnu mediteransku klimu, velik broj sunčanih dana, itd.).

Neum početkom 70-tih godina prošlog stoljeća Neum in early 70s of the 20th century

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NEUM Konstitutuirajuća sjednica SO Neum 29.12. 1977. godine Inaugural session of the Neum Municipal Assembly, 29 December 1977

The construction of holiday establishments was accompanied by the construction of facilities aiming to provide much more convenient stay for their guests: cafes and restaurants, shops, a market, local and tourist infrastructure. The Municipality of Čapljina allocated first land plots to individuals who built holiday houses or, later, family houses. At that time, the construction of the first hotel in Neum – Dom penzionera Neum (the Home for the Retired) (the present-day Hotel Neum) was initiated. After the Municipality of Neum was established, on 29 December, 1977, conditions were created for faster economic growth, by using, primarily, good natural resources (24.5 kilometers of the well-indented sea coast). At the time of its establishment, the Municipality of Neum was extremely underdeveloped, without a single economic entity or business. The main backbone of development was tourism in the coastal area, and extensive economy in the hinterland. Tourism was of

the socialist-era holiday resort type. The main tourist offer came in the form of holiday establishments of the then large enterprises, while private accommodations were rare. The economic infrastructure was insufficient even for the existing accommodation capacities. This especially applies to the erratic electricity supply and a small capacity of the local water supply system of Blace (about 4 liters per second). In 1978, this situation and existing needs made it necessary, after a comprehensive scientific research and expertise, to adopt the document entitled as „The Concept of the Long-term Development of the Coastal Area of the Municipality of Neum“, which was and still is the foundation and framework of all development plans that followed, either general or partial ones. The concept confirmed highly valuable natural resources of Neum region (the intact and naturally preserved good condition of Neum region, the quality of the sea, the favorable Mediterranean climate, a large number of sunny days, etc.).

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Neum krajem 70-tih godina prošlog stoljeća Neum in late 70s of the 20th century

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Plaža hotela “Neum” Neum Hotel beach

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HOTEL “Neum” u izgradnji Neum Hotel under construction

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Prateće djelatnosti turizmu bile su više nego skromne: nešto trgovine, zametak komunalnih usluga, loše ptt veze, dvije-tri prometnice u Neumu. Ukupan broj zaposlenih kretao se oko 250, od čega ih je u hotelu „Neum“ bilo oko 150. Tada je bilo izgrađeno oko 200 vikend-objekata i 40-ak objekata za stalno stanovanje. Dom penzionera Neum otvoren je 1977. godine kao objekt poluotvorenog tipa, a kasnije je postao komercijalnim objektom. Dogradnja Doma penzionera (depadansa hotela) s 300 ležaja završena je 1983. godine i tada taj objekt mijenja naziv u hotel „Neum“ i ima 800 ležaja. Tvornica pluta „Šipad“ završena je 1983. godine, što je omogućilo novih tridesetak radnih mjesta. Živinarska farma u Hutovu za proizvodnju pilećeg mesa počela je raditi 1983. godine. Kapacitet joj je 146

bio 120.000 pilića. U oblasti društvene infrastrukture treba spomenuti osnovnu školu u Hutovu, te sektorsku ambulantu u Hutovu, s jednim stalnim bolničarom i jednim povremenim liječnikom. Usporedo s razvojem gospodarstva razvijaju se i objekti društvenih djelatnosti. Zgrada osnovne škole u Neumu završena je 1983. godine, te je školska 1983./1984. počela u novoj školi. Izgradnjom i korištenjem suvremeno opremljenoga i kadrovski popunjenoga Doma zdravlja Neum osigurana je pristojna razina primarne zdravstvene zaštite, kako za potrebe građana općine Neum tako i za turiste. U okviru tadašnje RO „Bregava“ izgrađeni su značajni trgovački prostori, skladišni i prodajni, za čim se dugo vremena osjećala potreba.

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Economic activities accompanying tourism were all too modest: some commerce, an embryo of municipal services, poor post and telecommunication services, two or three streets in Neum. A total number of employees was about 250, of whom about 150 were employed in Hotel Neum. At that time there were about 200 weekend houses and 40 buildings for permanent residence. The Dom penzionera Neum (the Home for the Retired) was opened in 1977 as a half-open holiday establishment, later to become a commercial facility. Building of an annex to the hotel with 300 beds was completed in 1983 and then it changed the name to become Hotel Neum, with 800 beds. The cork factory Šipad was constructed in 1983 and new thirty or so work places was generated. The poultry farm in Hutovo for the chicken meat production started to operate in 1983. Its capacity was

120,000 chickens. As for social infrastructure, one should mention the primary school in Hutovo and the sector outpatient facility in Hutovo, with a full-time nurse and a parttime doctor. The development of the economy has been followed by the development of buildings of social activities. The building of the primary school in Neum was completed in 1983 and the new school year of 1983/84 started in the new building. The construction and use of a modern, well-equipped and staffed health centre of Neum provided a decent level of primary health care, both for the citizens of the municipality of Neum and for tourists. Within the then labor organization named Bregava, significant commercial premises were built, for storage and sale, which had been needed for long time. Bazen u sklopu horela “Neum” Swimming pool, part of Neum Hotel

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Hotel “Sunce” “Sunce” Hotel

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Plaža hotela “Sunce” “Sunce“ Hotel beach

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Hotel „Sunce“ izgrađen je i pušten u rad 1983. godine. Smješten je na samoj morskoj obali. Raspolaže s 400 kreveta u jednokrevetnim i dvokrevetnim sobama i apartmanima, te suvremenim ugostiteljskim sadržajima (konoba, taverna, restoran, pivnica, slastičarnica, caffe-bar, picerija). Hotel se bavi kongresnim turizmom, organiziranjem izleta u turistički atraktivna mjesta, fotosafarijem, te izletima na selo.

Terasa hotela “Sunce” Terrace of „Sunce“ Hotel

The Hotel Sunce was built and opened in 1983. It is situated on the very coast. The hotel has 400 beds in single and double rooms and suites. It also has modern tourist facilities, such as restaurants, tavern, pub, pastry shop, coffee shop and pizza parlor). Organization of conference tourism, trips to attractive tourist destinations, photo-shootings safaris and outings to the countryside is one of the activities of the hotel.

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Hotel “Zenit” “Zenit” Hotel

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Plaža hotela “Zenit” “Zenit“ Hotel beach

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Na lokalitetu sadašnjega hotela „Zenit“ do 1984. godine postojali su montažni drveni objekti privremenoga karaktera. Kako je regulacijskim planom taj prostor definiran za turističke potrebe hotelskoga tipa, zatraženo je od Željezare u Zenici da taj prostor prilagodi svrsi. Danas je tu hotel „Zenit“, zdanje moderne hotelske arhitekture, koje daje specifičnu prepoznatljivost samome mjestu. Hotel „Zenit“ je završen i u rad pušten 1987. godine, s 340 ležaja raspoređenih u apartmane, jednokrevetne, dvokrevetne i trokrevetne sobe. Hotel raspolaže ugostiteljskim objektima koji pružaju bogat izbor jela i pića, te brojnim športsko-rekreacijskim sadržajima:

zatvorenim bazenom, saunom, ambulantom, trim kabinetom, teniskim igralištem, prostorom za dječje igre i zabavnim salonom. Izgradnja nove pošte, i nove centrale s 1000 brojeva, završena je 1983. godine, čime su stvoreni dobri preduvjeti za kvalitetnu ptt komunikaciju. U rad je puštena 1984. godine. U Hutovu je funkcionirala Osnovna organizacija kooperanata, kasnije Zemljoradnička zadruga, u kojoj su se otkupljivali poljoprivredni proizvodi i ljekovito bilje. Godine 1989. u Hutovu je izgrađena dvorana za proizvodnju čamaca „Neumplast“, u kojoj je radilo desetak ljudi.

Sportski tereni u sklopu hotela Zenit Sports grounds, part of „Zenit“ Hotel

Until 1984, at the location of the present Hotel Zenit there were prefabricated wooden houses of a temporary character. As the regulation plan earmarked the area for the needs of tourism in form of a hotel, Željezara Zenica was asked to adjust the land to its purpose. Today the area is dominated by the Hotel Zenit, an example of the contemporary hotel architecture which is a landmark of the town itself. The Hotel Zenit was completed and opened in 1987, with 340 beds in suites, single, double and three-bed rooms. The hotel has restaurants with versatile menus, and numerous sports and recreational facilities, such as: an indoor pool, sauna, medical service, gym, ten-

nis court, children entertainment and an amusement room. In 1983, a new post office and new switchboard with 1000 numbers was constructed, which created conditions for good postal and telecommunication services. Its operation started in 1984. In Hutovo there was a Basic Organization of Cooperatives, later renamed as the Agricultural Cooperative, and it purchased agricultural products and healing and medicinal herbs. In 1989, a workshop for the manufacture of boats, Neumplast, was built in Hutovo, employing about 10 workers.

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Hotel Stela / „Stella“ Hotel

Plaža hotela Stella “Stella” Hotel beach

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Hotel „Tat“ izgrađen je i otvoren 1987. godine, a hotel „Stella“ 1990. godine. Smješteni su u središnjem dijelu Neuma. Danas posluju skupa u sastavu „Salus - Hotel Stella“, imaju 200 ležaja, u dvokrevetnim sobama, poluapartmanima i apartmanima. Za kongrese i seminare raspolažu s više opremljenih dvorana, a nude i jedrenje na dasci, vožnju sandolinama, pedalinama i skuterima, zatim stolni tenis i bilijar. Imaju natkriveno i otkriveno parkiralište. Hotel „Salinas“, renoviran i proširen s 250 ležaja, počinje raditi 1990. godine. Godine 1989. završen je projekt umjetnoga uzgoja ribe (orada-lubin) i u Neumskom kanalu izgrađena farma jestive ribe, kapaciteta 120 tona, a nekoliko godina kasnije i druga, ispod poluotoka Kleka. Glavno trgovačko poduzeće bilo je „Bregava“, kasnije OTP „Neumpromet“, koje je 1990. godine izgradilo veliku poslovnu zgradu s uredima na katu i poslovnim prostorima (diskont) u prizemlju. Komunalno poduzeće „Neum“ izgradilo je 1990. godine novu poslovnu zgradu u starom Neumu, s prostorom za servis i tehnički pregled vozila. Usporedno su građeni i stambeni objekti, individualni i kolektivni (više stambenih zgrada s ukupno 270 stanova).

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NEUM Panorama / Panorama

Hotel Tat was built and opened in 1987, and Hotel Stella in 1990. They were situated in the central part of Neum. Today they operate together as part of the Salus – Hotel Stella and have 200 beds, in double rooms, semi suites and suites. They have several conference rooms with the conference equipment. The use of kayaks, paddle boats and scooters, then table tennis and pool are on also on offer. They also have covered and open car parks. The Hotel Salinas, renovated and with an addition with 250 beds, started to operate in 1990. In 1989, the project of fish farm-raising (gilthead – sea bass) was completed and a fish farm was constructed in the Neum canal, of a capacity of 120 tons, and a couple of years later another farm followed, under the peninsula of Klek. The most prominent trade company was Bregava, later renamed into trade company Neumproment, which in 1990 built a large business building with offices on the first floor and business premises in the ground floor. In 1990, the company for municipal services „Neum“ built a new business building in the old part of Neum, with a repair shop and a facility for technical inspection and testing of vehicles. Construction of residential buildings was also continued along with it, individual houses and apartment buildings (more buildings with a total of 270 apartments).

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NEUM Panorama

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Pogled na uvalu Jazina View of Jazina lagoon

Rat i ratna djelovanja u razdoblju od 1991. do 1995. ostavili su tragove na gospodarstvu općine Neum. Hoteli su bili djelomično oštećeni, a Salinas“ i potpuno uništen. Predratni kapaciteti svedeni su na minimum. U poslijeratnom razdoblju postupno su sanirane materijalne štete na gospodarskim objektima, na hotelima, na odmaralištima i drugim gospodarskim i obiteljskim objektima, odnosno rasli su ugostiteljskoturistički kapaciteti. Izgrađeno je 20-ak većih i manjih hotela i motela, te više soba i apartmana. Neum danas turističkom tržištu nudi oko 6000 ležaja, od čega 1810 u hotelima, a ostali su u manjim i većim obiteljskim hotelima, motelima, apart-hotelima i slično. Ugostiteljske usluge u Neumu pruža i niz novootvorenih restorana, caffe barova i sličnih objekata. U poslijeratnom razdoblju izvršena je dokapitalizacija neumskih hotela u društvenom vlasništvu i registrirana su prva društva ograničene odgovornosti u mješovitom vlasništvu. Dokapitalizirana su četiri neumska hotela: „Neum“, „Sunce“, „Zenit“ i „Stella“. Dokapitalizacija nije realizirana do kraja (novac je uložen djelomično), slijedi privatizacija hotela preko ovlaštenih agencija. U narednom razdoblju posebno treba poticati razvoj turizma u zaleđu Neuma, tzv. seoski turizam.

Šetnica / Foot path

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Pogled na poluotok Klek View of Klek peninsula

The war and war activities between 1991 and 1995 had an impact on the economy of the municipality of Neum. The hotels were partially damaged, while the Hotel Salinas was completely destroyed. The pre-war capacities were reduced to a minimum. In the post-war period, damages to the economic buildings, hotels, holiday resorts and other economic and family buildings were gradually repaired, in other words, catering and hotel capacities were increased. About 20 large and small hotels and boarding houses were built, as well as a number of rooms and suites. Nowadays, in the tourist market, Neum offers about 6,000 beds, of which 1810 in hotels and the rest in smaller or bigger family hotels, boarding houses, aparthotels and similar. Catering services in Neum are also offered by a number of new restaurants, cafés and similar facilities. In the period after the war, recapitalization of the socially-owned hotels of Neum was carried out and first limited liability companies of mixed ownership were registered. The following four hotels of Neum were recapitalized: Neum, Sunce, Zenit and Stella. The recapitalization has not been completed (funds have been partially invested), therefore, privatization of the hotels will follow and is to be carried out through the relevant agencies. In the following period, development of tourism in the Neum’s hinterland, the so-called rural tourism, should now be encouraged. Plaža na poluotoku Kleku Klek peninsula beach

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Berba grožđa u gradačkom polju početkom 60-tih godina prošlog stoljeća Grape harvesting in Gradačko Polje valley in early 60s of the 20th century

Oduvijek se na području općine Neum živjelo od ratarstva i stočarstva, razmjenom ili kupoprodajom onoga što su vrijedne ruke posadile a zemlja iznjedrila, čovjek, pašnjaci i staje uzgojili. More i njegova bogatstva ljudi ovog kraja koristili su u manjoj mjeri. Ribarska zadruga osnovana je 1938., a ukinuta oko 1956., baš kao i zemljoradničke zadruge, koje nisu opravdale očekivanja ljudi zbog kojih su i bile osnovane. Osim stočarstvom i ratarstvom te donekle ribarstvom, 60-ih i 70-ih godina prošloga stoljeća ljudi ovoga kraja, uglavnom u priobalju, bave se i izradom klačina (vapnenica). Zidao bi se kamen, sjekla bi se šuma i kamen bi se danonoćno pržio 8 do 10 dana, te bi se tako dobiveno vapno (kreč) najčešće brodovima raz164

vozilo na cijelom području od Dubrovnika do Splita. Težak život i stalna borba za opstanak natjerala je mnoge ljude da napuste ovo područje i pođu tamo gdje se bolje živjelo, najprije u Hrvatsku, a kasnije u zemlje zapadne Europe, pa sve do daleke Australije. U unutrašnjosti općine uskotračna željeznica, od Gabele, preko Popova polja i dalje prema jugoistoku do Dubrovnika i Zelenike, zapošljavala je određen broj radnika koji su radili kao željezničari, skretničari ili otpravnici vlakova. Bili su to najčešće ljudi iz mjesta kojima je prolazila željeznica, primjerice Brštanica i Hutovo. Taj posao omogućavao je njima i njihovim obiteljima nešto lakši život, a zbog povezanosti s većim centrima i bolje uvjete školovanja.

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Vinograd u gradačkom polju / Vineyard in Gradačko Polje

Since long time ago, people in the region of Neum have always lived on agriculture and cattle raising, exchanging or selling and buying what their diligent hands planted and soil produced, and man, meadows and stables grew. The sea and its assets have been less used by the people of the area. A cooperative of fishermen was established in 1938 and ceased to function in 1956, as well as agricultural cooperatives which did not meet the expectations of those who had established them. In addition to cattle raising and agriculture, and fishing to some extent, in the 60’s and 70’s of the last century the local population, mainly in the coastal land, engaged in making of limekilns. Stones would be laid, forest would be cut and limestone would be burnt for eight to ten days day in, day out, so thus produced

whitewash was usually transported by ships around the whole region from Dubrovnik to Split. Hardships of life and a constant fight to survive forced many to leave this area and go to places where life was easier, first to Croatia, then to Western Europe countries, and as far as to Australia. In the hinterland area of the municipality, the narrowgauge railway, from Gabela through the Popovo Polje and farther on to the south-east to Dubrovnik and Zelenika, employed a number of railway workers, pointmen or train despatchers. Those were mainly locals from the places through which the railway ran, such as Brštanica and Hutovo. This job provided them and their families a somewhat easier life, and due to the connection with bigger centres, they got access to better conditions for educations.

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Stado na Previši / Flocks/herds in Previša

Stado na ljetnoj ispaši na planini Morine Flocks/herds in summer grazing on Mount Morine

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Zasadi duhana u gradačkom polju / Tobacco crops in Gradačko Polje valley

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Gradačko polje / “Gradačko polje” valley

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U oblasti poljogospodarstva, najviše su se uzgajali pšenica i ječam, a u posljednje vrijeme nešto je intenzivnija plastenička proizvodnja povrća, ponajviše paprike, salate i krastavaca. Prije rata proizvodnja duhana bila je dobro zastupljena, danas je svedena na minimum.

Plastenička proizvodnja u Babinu dolu Production in polythene greenhouses in Babin Dol

In the field of agriculture, wheat and barley have been top grains, and the produce of vegetables, mainly peppers, lettuce and cucumber in polythene greenhouses has recently increased. Before the war, the produce of tobacco was high, but today it has been completely reduced.

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Na neumskome području ima oko 12.000 stabala maslina (sorti koje odgovaraju ovom podneblju, tzv. oblica). Povećano je zanimanje za sadnju maslina i proizvodnju zdravoga ploda iz kojeg se dobiva ulje visoke kvalitete. Manji dio ploda masline koristi se za konzerviranje i soljenje. Ulju s ovih prostora je međunarodna komisija za procjenu kvalitete ulja dala najviše ocjene (ekstra djevičansko ulje). Zahvaljujući zemljopisnom položaju, u Neumu su ide-

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alni uvjeti za pčelarsku proizvodnju. Ona posljednjih godina lagano raste, ali to nije ni blizu mogućnostima koje pruža ova regija, njezin biljni pokrivač i klimatski uvjeti. Prema dostupnim podatcima, na ovom terenu nekada je bilo oko 7500 pčelinjih košnica. Na području općine postoje programi ribarstva i školjkarstva. Moguće je dalje razvijati ove djelatnosti s druge strane poluotoka Kleka.

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Maslenici i mlinica u BroÄ&#x2021;ancu Olive groves and olive oil refinery in BroÄ&#x2021;anac

In the Neum region there are about 12,000 olive trees (of the sorts that are suitable for this region, locally known as oblica). There has been more interest for planting of olives and growth of a healthy fruit which produces a high quality oil. A small portion of the olive fruit is used for canning and salting. The oil produced in this region has been awarded the highest mark of excellence by an international committee for the evaluation of the quality of oil (extra virgin oil). Owing to its geographic position, Neum has ideal conditions for beekeeping. It has been on an increase in the last years, but that is not even close to the potential of this region, its plant cover and climate conditions. According to available data, there used to be about 7,500 bee hives in this area. In the municipality area there are programs for fishing and mussels breeding. This activity can be developed on the other side of the peninsula of Klek.

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Od 1998. do 2002. trgovina u Neumu doživjela je pravu ekspanziju. Stjecajem povijesnih okolnosti, na ovim prostorima formirane su dvije samostalne države, Republika Hrvatska i Bosna i Hercegovina, što je omogućilo razvoj ove djelatnosti i zbog različitosti carinskih i poreznih opterećenja u njima. Nastalo je desetak većih privatnih trgovačkih objekata, i tridesetak manjih. Te trgovine su opskrbljivale Neumljane, goste koji su boravili u Neumu tijekom sezone i izvan nje, kao i susjedne gradove i općine Dubrovačko-neretvanske županije. Sve jača konkurencija, ograničena platežna sposobnost i kupovna moć pučanstva, ujednačavanje carinskih i poreznih propisa između Bosne i Hercegovine i Hrvatske, sve je to utjecalo da trgovina u Neumu opadne, odnosno vrati se u realne okvire. 172

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NEUM Ekspanzija trgovine u razdoblju 1998-2002. godine Expansion of trade in the period from 1998 to 2002

In the period between 1998 and 2002, trade in Neum was really flourishing. Historic circumstances were such that two independent states were established in this area, the Republic of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, which was favorable for the development of this activity due to the variety of customs and tax burdens they have levied. About ten major private shops emerged and about thirty smaller ones. These shops supplied the citizens of Neum, the guests staying in Neum in high season and off season, as well as neighboring cities and municipalities of the County of Dubrovnik-Neretva. Growing competition, limited purchase power of the population, harmonization of customs and tax regulations between Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia, all this caused a decline in the trade in Neum; in other words, it has returned to its objective level.

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6. DRUŠTVENE DJELATNOSTI SOCIAL ACTIVITIES 6.1. Odgoj i izobrazba / Education Predškolski odgoj odvija se u Dječjem vrtiću lociranom u starom dijelu Neuma (proširena i obnovljena zgrada nekadašnje škole) i obuhvaća rad s najviše 90-ero djece u tri skupine, što je zapravo i kapacitet vrtića. Jaslice, za djecu mlađu od tri godine, organizirane su kod časnih sestara služavki Maloga Isusa. Osnovna škola kardinala Stepinca broji oko 500 učenika, s tim da ih je većina u centralnoj školi u Neumu. Još funkcioniraju dvije područne škole, u Hutovu i Gracu, s nikad manjim brojem učenika. Sve školske zgrade su potpuno ili djelomično obnovljene

i pružaju optimalne uvjete za nastavni proces. Od školske 2001./2002. godine prvi put u povijesti u Neumu počinje srednjoškolska izobrazba. Otvara se područni odjel Srednje škole Čapljina, ito odjeljenje ekonomista, koji se već sljedeće godine širi odjelom ugostiteljsko-turističke struke. Već sedam godina 80ak srednjoškolaca ostaje u Neumu, ne mora nikamo „vozariti“. Za ove potrebe proširena je i dograđena zgrada Osnovne škole, a trenutačno se uređuju i kabineti za izobrazbu konobara i kuhara. Cilj je stvoriti centar za izobrazbu kadrova ugostiteljsko-turističke struke, ne samo za potrebe Neuma, već i šire. NEUM Dječiji vrtić Kindergarten

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NEUM Zgrada osnovne i srednje škole Primary and secondary school buildings

The preschool education program is carried out in the preschool located in the old part of Neum (in the renovated and enlarged building of the former school) and it covers teaching of a maximum of ninety children, in three groups, which is actually the full capacity of the institution.. Nursery programs for children under three are organized at the Sisters servants of Little Jesus. The primary school of Cardinal Stepinac has about 500 pupils and most of them go to the central school in Neum. In addition, there are two local schools, in Hutovo and Gradac, where the number of pupils declined reaching the lowest rate ever recorded. All school buildings have been completely or partially renovated and they offer good conditions for teaching..

In the school year 2001/2002, for the first time in the history of Neum, secondary education was introduced. A branch of the Secondary School of Čapljina was opened with a class of students of economics, only to be expanded the following year with the class of students of catering and tourism. It has been seven years now that about eighty secondary school students stay in Neum and do not have to commute to school. The building of the primary school was reconstructed to serve this purpose and there are works going on to get the teaching rooms ready for education of young waiters and cooks. The goal is to create a centre for education in the field of catering and tourism, not only to meet the relevant needs of Neum but also of a much wider area.

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6.2. Zdravstvo / Health Primarna zdravstvena zaštita obavlja se u Domu zdravlja, osnovanom 1980. godine, te u područnim ambulantama u Gracu, Hutovu, Cerovici, Brštanici i Gornjem Hrasnu, gdje liječnički tim odlazi jedanput tjedno. Određene specijalističke preglede i usluge u Domu zdravlja obavljaju liječnici specijalisti iz drugih, susjednih središta. Postoji također stomatološka služba kao i ljekarna u sklopu zajedničke zgrade koja djeluje samostalno, ima status pravne osobe.

Primary health care is received in the health centre, which was established in 1980, and in local outpatient facilities in Gradac, Hutovo, Cerovica, Brštanica and Gornje Hrasno, which are visited by a team of medical doctors once a week. Certain specialist examinations and services in the health centre are performed by specialist doctors from other neighboring centres. There is also dental service available, as well as a pharmacy which is located in the same building but operates as an independent legal entity.

NEUM: Dom zdravlja / Health care center – Hospital

6.3.Kultura / Culture Umjetnička kolonija Neum (traje jedanaest godina), Hrvatski glazbeni festival „Etnofest Neum“ (traje trinaest godina), te Neumski animirani filmski festival – NAFF (traje tri godine), sa sudionicima iz četrdesetak zemalja, tradicionalni su i značajni kulturni događaji na kojima Neumljanima mogu pozavidjeti i mnogo veće sredine. U okviru Umjetničke kolonije Neum nastalo je preko 600 umjetničkih djela (slika), koja su poslužila za otvaranje prvoga kulturnog objekta u Neumu – Umjetničke galerije, godine 2003. u kripti župne crkve u Neumu. Godine 2007. prostor Umjetničke galerije

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dopunjen je značajnim eksponatima iz pretpovijesnog razdoblja (V./IV. stoljeća prije Krista – kacige ilirskog ratnika, koplja, fibule, itd.), što je s već postojećim privatnim i drugim eksponatima poslužilo za formiranje ustanove Muzej i galerija Neum. U Hutovu je već prije izgrađena i otvorena Zavičajna kuća „Hutovo“, a u Hrasnu galerija i etnološka zbirka, mjesto čuvanja predmeta koji su služili za život i rad ljudi ovoga kraja, te predmeta starinskoga kućanstva. Listovi „Zvijezda mora“ (izdanje župe Neum), te „Vrutak“ (izdanje Društva prijatelja starina „Hutovo“, Hutovo) već su dio tradicije Neuma.

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The Neum Art Colony (existing for eleven years), the Croat Music Festival named Ethnofest Neum (existing for thirteen years), and the Neum Festival of Animated Movies – NAFF (three years) with the participation from about forty countries, are all traditional and significant cultural events of Neum which would have made other even larger centres envious. Within the Neum Art Colony over 600 works of art (paintings) have been created, which served the purpose of opening of the first cultural facility in Neum – the Art Gallery in 2003, in the crypt of the parish church in Neum. In 2007, the Art Gallery was enriched by significant exhibits of the prehistoric period (the 5th and the 6th centuries B.C. – a helmet of the Illyrian warrior, a spear, a fibula, etc.), which, together with the existing privately-owned and other exhibits, was used for the establishment of an institution of the Museum and Gallery of Neum. Earlier in Hutovo the Native House of Hutovo was built and opened, while in Hrasno there is a gallery and an ethnological exhibits collection, where objects used for life and work of locals as well as old household objects are kept. Newsletters called Zvijezda mora (issued by the Parish of Neum), and Vrutak (issued by the Society of Friends of Antiquities Hutovo, Hutovo) are already part of Neum’s tradition.

NEUM Otvorenje etnofesta / Opening of Ethnofest festival

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Neumski animirani filmski festival / Neum festival of animated movies

UmjetniÄ?ke kolonija Artistic colony

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Karnevalska grupa iz Hutova na međunarodnom ljetnom karnevalu u Čapljini Carnival band from Hutovo in the international summer carnival in Čapljina HUTOVO Ivanjski krijesovi - filmska večer Ivanjski krijesovi – movie night

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Tradicionalni narodni plesovi neumskog kraja Traditional folk dances of this region

Već dugi niz godina u Hutovu uspješno djeluje Društvo prijatelja starina „Hutovo“, koje je vodilo izgradnju Zavičajne kuće i koje organizira manifestacije „Ivanjski krjesovi“ i „Hutovski zimski karneval“ i koje sakuplja i čuva materijalnu i nematerijalnu kulturnu baštinu hutovskoga kraja. KUD „Humski glas“ iz Neuma i KUD „Gradac“ promiču kulturni identitet Neuma igrajući poznata narodna kola lindžu i trojanac te pjevajući bećarac. Narodni glazbeni instrumenti Folk music instruments

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For a number of years, in Hutovo, a Society of Friends of Antiquities „Hutovo“ has been active, who led the construction of the Native House and is organizing events named Ivanjski krijesovi and Hutovski zimski karneval. The Cultural and Art Society called Humski glas and Cultural and Art Society from Neum called Gradac promote the cultural identity of Neum, dancing the popular folk dances called lindžo and trojanac, and singing the folk song bećarac.

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Djevojka u tradicionalnoj narodnoj noĹĄnji Girl wearing traditional folk outfit

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6.4. Šport / Sport Za potrebe razvoja športa, a u cilju obogaćivanja ukupne ponude Neuma odnosno povećanja korištenja smještajnih kapaciteta, posebno u izvansezonskim mjesecima, na Meterizu je izgrađen nogometni športski centar „Neum“, s travnatim i dva pomoćna trenažna terena, s tribinama i svim potrebnim sadržajima i opremom za zimske pripreme nogometnih klubova. Također je u pojedinim naseljima izgrađeno više malonogometnih igrališta za djecu i mladež..

Gradi se školska športska dvorana, a za višenamjensku športsku dvoranu završena je projektna dokumentacija. U Neumu djeluje Hrvatski nogometni klub „Neum“ (zasad samo kadeti), Hrvatski vaterpolski klub „Jadran“ (jedini u BiH), koji se natječe u Drugoj hrvatskoj ligi, te boćarski klub, karate klub, klub za podvodne aktivnosti i malonogometni klub.

NEUM Nogometno igralište Football fields in Meteriz

With a view of developing sports and improving the total offer of Neum, or increasing the use of accommodation facilities, especially in off-season months, football sports centre „Neum“ was built on Meteriz, with one grass and two ancillary training grounds, with stands and all necessary facilities and equipment for winter training of football clubs. Also, in a number of settlements a number of indoor football playing grounds for children and young people were constructed. 182

A school hall of sports is currently being constructed, whereas the relevant project documentation has been prepared for a multipurpose sports hall. There is the Croat Football Club named Neum (where only cadets play for the time being), the Croat Water polo Club named Jadran (the only one in BiH) competing in the Second Croat League, as well as the bowling club, karate club, underwater activities club and indoor football club.

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Detalj s vaterpolske utakmice Water polo match details

NEUM BoÄ&#x2021;arski tereni Bowling courts

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