Mud & Magnolias June, July 2017 by Journal Inc

October. November June. July 2017 2013

&Magnolias

Mud

The Food Issue

Unicorn Recipe // DeRegoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s // Grit Moondog Makers & Bakers // Local Chefs mudandmag.com

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Contents

&Magnolias

Mud

pg. 27

pg. 35

pg. 47

pg. 70

Features DeRego’s • pg. 27

Editor’s Letter pg. 12 Extended Recipe Section pg. 15 From the hottest trends in food to a healthy option for the whole family, these recipes are worth clipping. Junior Chef pg. 43 At only 14 years old, this guy has been recognized on national TV for his culinary expertise.

Where crackers reign supreme, this Starkville business ships around the world.

Moondog Makers & Bakers • pg. 35

Chef Spotlight pg. 57 North Mississippi has no shortage of great cuisine and these are a few of the faces behind it all.

Grit • pg. 47

The Guest Room pg. 68 A nod to speakeasies of an older time, this is a hot spot for some of the best drinks around.

Velvet Cream • pg. 70

Erica’s Shaved Ice pg. 77 This mobile stand is the perfect way to cool down this summer.

Still in its early stages, this business promotes all things local and is building community around locally sourced food. With a refreshing atmosphere, this restaurant is serving up unique dishes and drinks for every appetite. With over 240 milkshake flavors and just about anything you can think of fried to perfection, this Hernando staple is here to stay.

The Painted Cookie • pg. 82

These sweet treats are almost too pretty to eat. mudandmag.com

Editor’s Letter

Did you hear the world freaking out over the unicorn frappucino Starbucks released a few months back? We did, too, so it only seemed fitting we dig into the hottest food trends for our inaugural food edition. I’m not really a fan of funky colors in my food and didn’t try the frappe, but our makeshift ice cream recipe on page 18 was easy to make and tasted a lot like homemade ice cream. We considered it a win for the summer heat. Next up on the trends list were edible flowers. There isn’t much you could do to make french bread and cream cheese bad, and I have to say, while the flowers don’t really add any taste, they certainly add to the presentation (pg. 15). Possibly my favorite of all the trends was the frozen rosé, better known as frosé (pg.17). Being a native to the Mississippi heat, I have learned to

appreciate anything that can be used as a coolant, and the fact that it’s a lighter take on wine makes it even better. This issue has more recipes worth flagging and stories on people and businesses taking Southern cuisine to new heights. Chefs often go unnoticed by the people who enjoy their work, but on page 57, you can get to know the people behind the food. One chef who has been noticed on a national level is Mark Coblentz and he’s 14 (pg.43). Is it just me or do you wish he was your son or brother? Since he’s neither for me, I’ll buy myself a gourmet sno-cone (pg. 77) and/or a cookie from The Painted Cookie (pg. 82). You should, too. #treatyoself

If you have any thoughts about this issue, please email me at editor@mudandmag.com.

On the cover: See our easy unicorn ice cream recipe on page 18. It takes only four ingredients and though it isn’t actually homemade ice cream, it doesn’t taste much different. Photo by Lauren Wood.

Over at mudandmag.com: Be on the lookout for: Our new online store features T-shirts, coffee mugs, digital prints and dish towels with art and designs by local Mississippi artists. A bartender at The Guest Room in Starkville shows us how to make a coffee liquor drink. Check out our feature on page 68. + narratives, videos and extended photo galleries facebook.com/mudandmagnolias

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Mud & Magnolias

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THE STAFF’S FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE:

Mud

&Magnolias

1242 S Green St. Tupelo, MS 38804 662.842.2611

5 Photos by C. Todd Sherman, Lauren Wood and Thomas Wells

2 • Shannon: Most of the food I cook, I learned from my mother except for my favorite dish to cook, red beans & rice. My father taught me his recipe. It’s kind of funny since it’s the only thing I can remember him cooking that wasn’t grilled. 3 • Michaela: If I have time to putter, I love to make a turkey piccata over orzo. I adore the zing of the lemons with the turkey cutlets. 4 • Leslie: My mom had a cookbook, “Aunt Glad’s Country Cooking” by Gladiola Branscome Harris from my hometown of Grenada. Mama made sure my sister and I each had a signed copy. One of our favorite things in the cookbook is a recipe for homemade chicken pot pie. My mother didn’t make it often – it’s time-consuming. But it is delicious. The chicken and vegetables in a rich cream sauce are topped with homemade cheese crescents. Like my mother, I don’t make it often, but when I do, I think of her. 5 • Carmen: A favorite of mine is stovetop lasagna. It’s perfect for entertaining or a quick weeknight meal, since it only takes 30 minutes. The key is a good jar of arrabbiata sauce, no-boil noodles and fresh mozzarella. 6 • Missha: I love all things food and enjoy cooking and baking just about anything, and eating it too! If I had to choose one thing though, it would have to be homemade chicken and dumplings! These are a favorite for both me and my daughter. They are also a good comfort food and can be enjoyed during any time of the year. 7 • Lauren: I love baking cakes! And I also love creating different frosting flavors, like Earl Grey with sea salt caramel drizzle. 8 • Ginna: I am not much of a sweets eater and I’m certainly better at cooking than baking, but ironically my favorite thing to make is my mother’s pound cake, also known as Willie Mae Godwin’s Pound Cake (Mama and Miss Willie Mae got their hair done at the same time every Friday afternoon at the Beauty Bazaar). This cake is dense on the inside and crispy on the outside and best served for breakfast, warmed in the oven with butter slathered on top.

Editor-in-Chief Ellie Turner Associate Editors Shannon Johnson Missha Rogers Leslie Criss Lauren Wood Carmen Cristo Featured Sales Consultants Leigh Knox Bill Spencer June Phillips Darla Webb Kristen Capps Amber Lancaster Teresa McDonald Erin Smith Sarah Brooke Bishop Contributing Editors Michaela Morris Ginna Parsons Contributing Photographers Blake McCollum Adam Robison subscriptions@mudandmag.com advertising@mudandmag.com info@mudandmag.com mudandmag.com This magazine is a bimonthly publication of Journal, Inc.

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Trend Report: From colorful dishes to freezing a fancy beverage, these are only a few recipe trends and a staff-tested and approved way to try it.

Cream cheese and chive crostinis with edible flowers, recipe on page 24 Photos by Lauren Wood

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Frozen grapefruit rosĂŠ, recipe on page 24 mudandmag.com

Unicorn ice cream, recipe on page 24 18

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Kid-Friendly & Healthy Cheddar cauli-tots, recipe on page 24

Dinnertime can be a daunting task if your little one isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a fan of veggies. Enter grated cauliflower and cheese. Believe us, everyone will be begging for more. mudandmag.com

Level: Easy Kitchen Sink Recipes Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve all been there: looking in our refrigerators trying to figure out how to use all those leftover ingredients before they spoil. Waste no more with these options.

Carnitas empanadas, recipe on page 21

Pasta salad, recipe on page 24

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Sweet potato & kale frittata, recipe on page 24

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Recipes TREND REPORT CREAM CHEESE AND CHIVE CROSTINIS WITH EDIBLE FLOWERS Ingredients: 8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives 1 small loaf French bread fresh herbs for garnish fresh edible flowers (we used Marigolds) Directions: Preaheat oven to 350 degrees. Slice French bread and drizzle with olive oil. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes or until toasted. In a medium bowl, mix the cream cheese and chives. Spread the mixture over each slice of toasted bread and garnish with herbs and flowers. Serve immediately. FROZEN GRAPEFRUIT ROSÉ OR FROZÉ Ingredients: 1/2 cup rosé of choice 1/2 cup ruby red grapefruit juice 1 1/2 cups ice Directions: Combine ingredients in blender and blend until smooth. Pour and serve. Garnish with grapefruit slices and mint if desired. UNICORN ICE CREAM Ingredients: 2 cups heavy whipping cream 8 ounces sweetened condensed milk 1 tablespoon vanilla food coloring of choice Directions: In a large mixing bowl, beat whipping cream on medium until soft peaks form. Add in sweetened condensed milk and vanilla and mix until well combined. Separate ice cream batter into separate bowls and color with food coloring. Combine each color into a large container and freeze for 4 to 6 hours before serving. KID-FRIENDLY & HEALTHY CHEDDAR CAULI-TOTS Ingredients: 3 cups raw cauliflower 1 cup cheddar, shredded 1 large egg 1/4 cup cornmeal 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground mustard

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Directions: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Shred cauliflower in a food processor and squeeze out excess water with a clean dish towel. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Spoon mixture into a greased pan (mini muffin pan works best) and cook for 20 minutes. Serve. KITCHEN SINK PASTA SALAD Ingredients: 1 pound bow tie pasta 3/4 cup pesto 2 tablespoons sun-dried tomatoes, drained juice of one lemon 1/2 cup kalamata or green olives 2 red bell peppers 2 ears grilled corn 1 ripe peach, diced 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved 8 ounces cheddar cheese, cubed 6 ounces mozzarella balls, halved olive oil for drizzling 1/2 cup toasted sunflower seeds salt, pepper, crushed red pepper to taste. Directions: Cook pasta according to package and drain. Mix all ingredients together well, until ingredients are well coated with pesto and olive oil. SWEET POTATO & KALE FRITTATA Ingredients: 2 tablespoon olive oil 1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch pieces (substitute white potato, onion or tomato) 8 large eggs 1/4 cup milk 2 cups curly kale, ribs removed (or other green like spinach) 3 cloves garlic 1/2 cup crumbled feta (or whatever cheese you have) salt pepper Directions: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl, beat the eggs and add milk. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add olive oil to a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. When hot, add sweet potato and cook until fork tender. Add garlic and kale and cook until wilted. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove half of the sweet potato and kale mixture and set aside. Pour egg mixture into cast iron skillet, and add the other half back in over the top. Cook for approximately 5 minutes, or until set. Sprinkle with cheese of choice, like feta or goat cheese. Bake in oven for about 10 minutes, until the center is firm. M

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DeRego’s By Ginna Parsons

hen Troy DeRego was in college, he spent a semester at sea sailing on a research vessel. Surprisingly, this is where the Starkville businessman learned to bake bread. “We all had to take turns in the ship’s galley and cook for the crew,” said DeRego, 48. “We had a really well-stocked galley, but we had to make bread fresh every day. I made dinner rolls, English muffins, crepes. You wanted to make something different when it was your turn to make the meal. None of us were trained cooks – we were just following recipes.” When DeRego got back to shore, he told himself he was going to bake something every day. And he has lived up to that promise. DeRego is owner/baker at DeRego’s on West Main Street in downtown Starkville. He started out making baguettes and sourdough breads but his bakery now specializes in craft-beer crackers. But that leap from bread to crackers has taken years of tinkering. “I started baking for the Farmers’ Market here in 2013,” he said. “I was making baguettes and sourdough. I knew sourdough would be a big hit, even though I don’t like the term sourdough. I’d rather call it naturally levened bread.” In 2015, DeRego took a leap of faith and opened his bakery. His wife, Becky Hagenston, who teaches creative writing at Mississippi State University, laid down two rules: First, he couldn’t lose money in the venture. And second, he had to have time off for trips. “My wife and I like to travel,” he said. “Come spring break, we just get to drop and go. We’ve been to London and Paris and Dublin. When we get back home, we try to hold onto those memories. Baking bread was my way to do that. My time in France led me to European-style breads. Baguettes became my obsession.” DeRego’s dream was just to bake bread every day and sell it at his shop. But he knew there wouldn’t be enough demand for him to make a living solely selling bread, so he decided to

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Troy DeRego

try different things. “We tried breakfast; we tried pizza,” he said. “But no one thing ever stood out as the answer to which piece of the puzzle was going to carry the weight. We had fans for everything we did. But we were spread too thin. We had to see a path forward. So I looked ahead to see where I wanted to be in five years.” He knew he needed to find a way to reach a larger audience. Fresh bread has a shelf life of only one day and he needed something to last longer. Ironically, the answer was right under his nose. “When we make sourdough, it’s fed every day and there’s always a little bit that’s discarded,” he said. “If you throw it in the sink or the garbage, it keeps fermenting. I learned that if I put it in the oven and baked it off, in the mornings, I’d come in to this big delicious cracker. The only thing that kept it from being a true cracker was salt.” Then DeRego began thinking about shelf life and his time sailing.

“All the sailing ships went out with crackers called hardtack – that’s what sailors would eat on voyages that would last for years,” he said. “I thought, if there’s a cracker that lasts for years, surely I can figure this out. I put the two ideas together – sourdough is a natural flavor enhancer. It took some experimenting, but I managed to come up with a plain sourdough cracker. I rolled them out and they were a big hit.” But DeRego couldn’t be satisfied with just a plain cracker. He did more experimenting and now has about seven flavors for sale, including sesame sticks, sunflower-seed crackers and flaxseed rye crackers. “But the ones we’re most excited about are the craft-beer crackers,” he said. “This is the next big piece of the puzzle.” DeRego has several friends who are home brewers who, at the end of the beer-making process, are left with what are called spent grains. “As a whole-grain baker, I’m always into trying out different grains in my crackers,” he said. “So I got some spent grains from friends and started drying them in the oven – mostly mudandmag.com

malted barley. I mixed them with the sourdough and let the dough ferment overnight and the crackers we baked the next day were exceptional.” DeRego got more spent grains from other brewer friends, assuming they would all end up tasting the same. He was wrong. “They came out tasting as different as the beers from those grains – Octoberfest, Pale Ale Rye, Hazy IPA, Stout, English Ale,” he said. “They’re called spent grains, but that’s not really a fair name. They have concentrated nutrients and concentrated protein so actually they’re better for you now than they were to begin with.” DeRego’s dream now is to take his craft-beer crackers to a national audience. So far, Restaurant Tyler and Dave’s Dark House Tavern in Starkville and the Neon Pig in Tupelo have featured them, and a Kickstarter campaign was launched in 30

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February. “The campaign was to raise money for a piece of equipment to make the crackers,” he said. “That’s when we really announced the crackers to the world. We now ship to states all across the country. There are only four or five states left that we don’t ship to.” DeRego is quick to point out that crackers can be eaten at breakfast, as a snack, with soups or salads, crumbed up and used as breadcrumbs, or used as a base for little pizzas. “Our mission is to convince people that they’re more than just crackers,” he said. “It’s a healthy product that’s also delicious. What inspired me to start my own business was a desire to lead a purposeful life. What better purpose is there than to nourish people with delicious food?” M Photos by Lauren Wood

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Moondog Makers & Bakers

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oey Thompson’s first food service experience was in a community convenience store near his childhood home in Ingomar, Mississippi. He was only 13, so it was mostly cutting meat and making sandwiches, but on the occasional busy Saturday, he would man the fryer. Thompson worked there for seven years before stumbling into an opportunity to work in the kitchen at Pizza Grocery in Corinth, the city that is now home base for him and his business, Moondog Makers and Bakers.

“I walked in and asked if they were hiring. They asked if I had cooking experience and I said yes, which wasn’t entirely true,” he said. “That was how it all began.” Thompson worked his way through the ranks at Pizza Grocery after training under Chef Andy Lipford. “I remember being amazed at how he could come up with a special off the top of his head,” he said. “I wanted to be able to do that.” The Pizza Grocery is still his full-time gig, but he needed a break from the pizza and pastas, so he started canning and mudandmag.com

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jarring fruits and vegetables with unique flavor combinations that he sold at the Green Market alongside his nephew, Payton Harvell, and a few friends — Ryan Winter, Zack Grier and Andrew Groves. A year later, Thompson and company started selling pies and vending food, straight from Coleman stoves and cast iron skillets. These days, MoonDog is still vending at the Green Market, setting up pop-up shops at local spaces like the Franklin Courtyard and the Flying Pig Craft Beer Market and even catering weddings. Their mission: flavor — in their food and in the community. They are serving dishes like bacon-wrapped filets with sweet soy quinoa, fried cabbage and sweet pepper continued on page 40

salad in disposable containers and drinks like hibiscus sweet tea. Thompson admits the kind of spirited cuisine Moondog is known for takes a lot of hard work, but is just as fun. For him, the best part is creating the menu. He is partial to Tex-mex, Southern and Italian flavors. In Moondog’s ever-changing offerings, you will find them all, as well as a strong presence of locally grown ingredients. His pièce de résistance is Moondust, a spice blend that, according to the Moondog himself, “tastes good on literally everything.” Thompson is constantly drawing inspiration from other chefs in the farm-to-table business, Instagram and the old-

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school cookbook. His wife, Kaylin, will tell you that even on their beach vacations, he’s browsing cookbooks instead of magazines or murder mysteries. His all-time favorite is “A New Turn in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented for Your Kitchen” by Hugh Acheson. So, what is a Moondog? In this context, it is a nickname given to a little cotton-top tike who liked to imitate a couple WWF wrestlers with shaggy blond hair and frayed denim cut-offs who carried animal bones into the ring. The boy has grown up, but the nickname remains intact. Thompson toyed with many names, like Joey’s Pies, before settling on Moondog Makers and Bakers. Inspiration struck in the middle of the night, as it often does for him. By the time Kaylin woke the next morning, he had already set up an email address. “Moondog” is equally familiar and mysterious, much like Thompson’s elevated Southern fare. It brings to mind a lone wolf doing his own thing. He has had opportunities to take his concept elsewhere, where its popularity has been proven, but Thompson is in Corinth for the long haul. “My heart is definitely in Corinth,” he said. His affection appears to be reciprocated by the small town residents, who are eager for something new, exciting and distinctly local. Thompson hopes to have a storefront in the future, but for now, he’s content creating community and good food wherever he can. M Photos by Lauren Wood

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Q & A: Mark Coblentz The 14-year-old son of Bonnie and Robbie Coblentz of Starkville shares his thoughts on cooking, culinary competitions and his future. Interviewed by Ginna Parsons

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Mark and friends at a watch party for his appearance on MasterChef Junior.

What are some of your earliest memories in the kitchen? Some of my earliest memories of cooking in the kitchen were with my mom and my grandparents. Both of my grandmas are avid bakers, and my mom has always been the main cook in my family, until now. When did you get interested in cooking? I first got interested in cooking when I was about 6 or 7, and my mom made me go to a cooking class, and I loved how you could create something so put together, from just some “building blocks.” When I was about 10, I started to watch cooking shows, and I decided to start trying to cook the things on them. My love for cooking really started there. What are some of your favorite dishes to make? My favorite dish to make is my homemade doughnuts, but I really enjoy fabricating and cooking any meat. I enjoy making homemade pasta and any dish that involves a lot of hands-on time. Do you have any favorite cookbooks or websites where you get your recipes? I started off getting my dishes from the cooking show “Good Eats,” but then I started to just experiment. After a few years, I started to just think up dishes to make and put my own spin on things. Now, I like to think to myself that I have a lot of culinary knowledge, and so I usually think about what I want to make, and if it is something new, look up some different ways to make it. I then put my twist on the dish, and go from there. In 2015, you competed on the Food Network’s “Chopped Junior” and earlier this year, you made it to the Top 10 on FOX’s “MasterChef Junior.” What did you learn about cooking, and about yourself, from those two experiences?

Photos by Lauren Wood and Adam Robison

From “Chopped Junior,” I mostly learned a lot about time management. During the show, I didn’t time some of my things properly, like I had undercooked my pasta. I also lost track about how long my venison had been in the oven. On “MasterChef Junior,” I was reminded about how to put yourself on the plate, not someone else. I attempted a dish I had never made before, and it almost sent me home. I tried to make a caramelized strawberry “caviar” with agar-agar, and the idea never panned through. I spent a lot of time on it, and it almost cost me. Is there anything you don’t like to eat or won’t cook? One of my least favorite things is tacos with overpowering taco seasoning that has way to much cumin and preservatives. But, I am starting to enjoy tacos with a homemade spice mix that is freshly made. Do you plan to attend culinary school or major in some sort of food-related field in college? I am not 100 percent sure on that. I would like to go to the Culinary Institute of America, but it is very pricey. Or, my other plan is to go off to Europe and just tour around, eat, and cook in some of the best kitchens in Europe. They both would be fun, and expensive, but I am keeping my options open for now. If you could have one celebrity chef cook for you, who would that be – and why – and what would the meal be? The celebrity chef that I would choose to cook a meal for me would definitely be Chef Gordon Ramsay. I would ask him to make me Beef Wellington, so I can say I ate his Beef Wellington that he prepared right in front of me. I would also do it so I could learn a little more from the source on how to make the perfect Beef Wellington. M

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GRIT

Grit is a restaurant of tasty contradictions. The Taylor establishment offers fine dining without the white table cloths in the Lafayette County countryside.

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outhern staples are presented with fresh twists, like black-eye pea falafel and pimento mac and

cheese. The menu combines both the familiar and the adventurous. The spring dinner menu includes both beef brisket and grilled octopus. The happy marriage of intriguing flavors and relaxed mood is the brain child of husband and wife Nick Reppond and Angie Sicurezza. The couple and their team will celebrate the first anniversary of Grit in June. The goal was to offer the fine dining experience without being too stuffy or inaccessible. “We wanted to be able to provide very fine food in a casual, relaxed atmosphere,” Reppond said. “We wanted to push ourselves.” The restaurant’s wide windows overlook the grassy square in Taylor’s Plein Air development. The local vibe carries through the entire restaurant. The tables and bar shelves were created by local craftsmen. Local artists are featured in rotating exhibits on the walls of the restaurant. “We love being in Taylor,” said Sicurezza. “We love how the community has welcomed us. We have a really good local, loyal clientele.” Onsite smokers provide the brisket, chicken, pork shoulder

and smoke tomato gravy. They even smoke foie gras to create a special vinaigrette that dresses the brussels sprouts on the spring menu. The evolving menu tracks the seasons and reflects the bounty of the region. “We follow what’s available locally the best we can,” Reppond said. “We’re not going to serve watermelon in the winter.” In its first year, the menu changed five times as the seasons and harvests turned. “We’ve developed a lot of relationships,” with farmers around the region, Sicurezza said. The beef comes from Tennessee, the pork from Como. The herbs and mushrooms on the menu often come from a Water Valley farmer who grows them in his yard and sells at the Oxford Farmers Market. The summer menu will bring back the tomato pie that was a hit on Grit’s first menu. The recipe comes from Reppond’s grandmother, who inspired his love of cooking. He added his own twist by topping it with argula salad with corn and crab meat. “People drove for that pie,” Sicurezza said. Grit’s signature cocktails follow the season, too. The bourbon-based Dason-Mixin drink has featured special syrups

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made from peaches, pears, cranberries, blackberries and now muscadines. “I think we will get back to peaches,” Sicurezza said. The ever-changing menu is a collaboration that pulls on the talents of the kitchen staff, Reppond said. They knock around ideas for the next menu as they cook, blending the expertise developed in different kitchens to produce different flavors. “It’s not just me,” Reppond said. Reppond and Sicurezza both have deep roots in the restaurant business. Reppond, who learned to cook from his mother and grandmother in Memphis, started washing dishes at The Right

Place, a Memphis diner, at 15. One day, one of the cooks didn’t show. “They asked me how I felt about cooking,” Reppond said, and they put him to work cooking eggs. Sicurezza also had her first restaurant job as a teen growing up in Connecticut. Her affinity for logistics and planning took her to Vancouver, British Columbia, Grand Cayman and Southern California. Growing up, Sicurezza aspired to live in California, drawn by the laid-back lifestyle she saw in TV shows and films. “California was nothing like that dream,” Sicurezza said. “The quality of life I was looking for, I really did find here.” mudandmag.com

Nick Reppond and Angie Sicurezza The professional and personal crossroads for Reppond and Sicurezza ran through City Grocery Restaurant Group. Reppond came to Oxford in November 2008 and worked his way through the kitchens at City Grocery, Snack Bar, Big Bad Breakfast and Lamar Lounge. Sicurezza joined the team in 2009 as a special events coordinator and then director of operations for the City Grocery Restaurant Group. They became a couple in 2010 and married in 2014. As much as they loved working with John Currence, the pair decided it was time to step out on their own. In 2015, they moved to Taylor and bought a catering company, laying the groundwork for the the restaurant. Taylor has long had a reputation for music, food and culture, served up with a relaxed Southern style, Reppond said. It’s been the perfect place for them personally and professionally. 52

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Reppond and Sicurezza initially envisioned a cafe or barbecue joint to complement the catering business. “When we got into this space, it just evolved,” Sicurezza said. “It had a life of its own,” Reppond added. The couple has developed a good balance. Sicurezza handles the logistics, planning and organizing schedules and equipment. Reppond handles the creative and the culinary, happily leaving emails and spreadsheets to his wife. “There’s no one else I would want to do this with,” Reppond said. M Photos by Lauren Wood

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Chef Spotlight

Kristen Ward Pastry Chef // Butterbean in Tupelo

Kristen Ward has known she wanted to cook since her childhood in Yazoo City, Mississippi. She tried college for a year, and then decided to pursue her passion for food. At 19, she moved to Tupelo where she took a job as a barista at Starbucks and began getting acquainted with the culinary scene. Not long after, she met David Leathers, chef at Forklift. He “took her under his wing” and they started making plans long before Forklift or Butterbean ever opened its doors. Ward was able to work on a few local projects in the meantime and turned her focus towards pastry. “I always thought I’d be a line cook, but line cooks don’t like

baking,” she said. “I like details.” She was working retail when she got the call she had been waiting for — the restaurant was opening and Leathers was ready to make good on his promise. As Forklift and Butterbean’s pastry chef, Ward is at it at 4:30 a.m., making their signature buttermilk biscuits and homemade comfort food desserts like gooey butter cake. Her style is decidedly casual; it’s what you would make at home, but better. Biscuits will be Butterbean, and Ward’s, bread-and-butter, with a list of fixings that are both savory and sweet to choose from to accompany your morning (or afternoon) coffee.

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Chef Spotlight

Seth Copeland Co-owner // Neon Pig in Tupelo

Seth Copeland is the co-owner of the Neon Pig in both Tupelo and Oxford and half of the Butcher Boyz catering team. He represents the business in the community and abroad, at events like the upcoming Food and Wine Festival in Atlanta. Copeland has worked at some of Tupelo’s favorite food spots. He got his start at Finney’s Sandwich and Soda Shop at 14, and he still remembers the secret potato salad recipe. From there, he went to Pizza Doctor and then BBQ by Jim. From each experience he gleaned culinary skills, and most of all, a passion for supporting local people and local food, from Mississippi’s own farmers and fishermen.

“In the spirit of doing good for my neighbors, I knew that I wanted my business to have a positive impact on my community,” Copeland said. “What better way to help your neighbor than to support their way of life or even a hobby that helps bring food to their table.” Copeland and his partners have a simple mission: Provide food that’s healthy, sustainable and tastes great while supporting the continuation of the South’s agricultural heritage.

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Chef Spotlight

Dutch & Rebecca van Oostendorp Owners // TriBecca Allie in Sardis

When Rebecca and Damian “Dutch” van Oostendorp built their first wood-fire brick oven in their backyard, it was to satisfy their own cravings. The van Oostendorps had just moved from New York to small town Mississippi, where pizza and bread options were limited, to say the least. They became hobbyists, selling their bread at the farmers’ market in Oxford. The response was overwhelming. “The more we sold our bread, the more people got excited,” Rebecca said. “People encouraged us to open a restaurant, but we thought, ‘no, we’re not doing that.’” Their next project was schiacciata, a flatbread with dried cheeses and vegetables that they sold during football season to be rewarmed on tailgate grills. They were an even bigger hit than the bread. When the perfect building became available in Sardis, Dutch and Rebecca knew it was time to give the people what they wanted. The renovation took three years. Now, TriBecca Allie has 60

been going strong for eight years. They see customers from down the street and from hours away, who come back week after week for the pizza, salads and lasagna. Dutch and Rebecca value quality above all else. Ingredients are seasonal and locally sourced, and every component is made-to-order, down to the salad dressing. “We believe in fresh preparation,” Rebecca said. “I think people really appreciate when you take your time.” For inquiring minds, the name is misspelled on purpose. Inspired by their home in New York, they chose TriBecca, changing the spelling to include Rebecca’s name. Allie is for their business partner, Allison. The van Oostendorps also own the business next door, Frog’s Pearl Station, where they serve coffee and desserts like local ice cream.

Chef Spotlight continued on page 65 mudandmag.com

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Chef Spotlight

Cooper Miller

Executive Chef // Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen in Tupelo Cooper Miller may look like a new face in Tupelo, but really he is an old friend. Miller was raised in Amory, Mississippi, completely oblivious to his family’s culinary heritage until he had set out on his own. “I didn’t find out until later in life that cooking was in my DNA,” said Miller. While in college at Mississippi State University, Miller had gotten job at Anthony’s Good Food Market. He started out in the dish pit, but was running sauté within a year. After a two-year stent in Vail, Colorado, Miller returned home to finish his education, in school and in the kitchens of the Veranda, The Grill and Hotel Chester. “After being fired from The Grill, I went to Hotel Chester to apply for a line cook position,” Miller said. “After a thirty-minute interview, I walked out as the executive chef. I wasn’t expecting that, but it was the best thing that ever happened to me. It made me realize that I loved doing this, but I had no idea what I was doing.” With that in mind, his now-wife Lauren began applying him to culinary schools in secret. Once acceptance letters started coming in, he and Lauren chose Le Cordon Bleu in Atlanta for the booming restaurant market and the proximity to family. Miller graduated at the top of his class with honors and has spent the past decade working with James Beard nominees, Iron Chef participants and Top Chef winners. Most recently, he worked as executive chef of Ladybird Grove & Mess Hall. Miller is bringing everything he has learned back home as the new executive chef of Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen. His self-described style of “Southern simple”

is a perfect fit for the farm-to-table concept. He plans to build on the foundation put in place by Mitch McCamey, and promises an expansion of appetizers, shared plates and family dining options. Like McCamey, Miller is a strong advocate for supporting local farms. “I’ve watched Tupelo and Mississippi grow over the last decade and I’m excited to team up with Mitch and keep this trend moving in the right direction,” said Miller. “We are going to elevate our standards and expectations to deliver a superior culinary experience, hopefully this will inspire others to follow suit.”

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Chef Spotlight

Ty Thames

Chef/Owner // Restaurant Tyler in Starkville Jonathan “Ty” Thames is co-owner and chef of a handful of of Starkville, Mississippi’s most popular bars and eateries—Bin 612, City Bagel Cafe, Restaurant Tyler and The Guest Room. What began as a dream between him and his college roommate, Brian Kelley, is now one of the most celebrated restaurant groups in the state. Thames started cooking in his teen years. His formal education began at the University of Southern Mississippi, where he received a bachelor’s degree in hospitality management. He then took off for Vermont, where he graduated with distinction from the New England Culinary Institute. After graduation, he moved to Parma, Italy, to expand his expertise in Italian cuisine. While in Italy, he trained under Chef Leonardo of Maria Luigi Restaurant. Once stateside again, Thames began working at the Ritz Carlton Hotel, Georgetown Property in Washington, D.C. He honed his craft there, and then moved to the regional 66

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Italian restaurant Centro in Bethesda, Maryland. His work there earned him recognition in several national and regional publications. When Kelley called to make good on their college dream, Thames moved home to Mississippi and opened Bin 612. “Starkville is just a small town, and I love the intimacy of it,” he said. “The community response has been so overwhelming for what we’ve been doing.” Thames has dedicated his career in Starkville to being a responsible restaurateur, using locally grown, natural products and hiring and retaining the best talent. At any given time, you can spot him at any one of his restaurants or out in the community, practicing what he preaches. “I get to play with food everyday and create,” Thames said. “The only limitation is my own imagination. I couldn’t ask for a better gig.”

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• since 1976 •

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702 EAST PRESIDENT

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842-4000 mudandmag.com

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By Carmen Cristo

The Guest Room

t this speakeasy-style bar, you don’t need a password, but you do need to know where to go. In an alleyway in downtown Starkville, a single lantern “lights the way for those who know.” Enter and you’ll find what lies beneath Restaurant Tyler: a dimly-lit basement with a Southern gothic vibe. There are precisely 30 seats, and no more than 30 people are allowed in. Even though word-of-mouth is the only form of advertisement, customers are often turned away to keep the environment intimate and comfortable, just as owners Ty Thames and Brian Kelley envisioned. “Brian and I have always enjoyed traveling. We have a condo in New Orleans,” said Thames. “We were inspired by that scene and the craft cocktail movement to open The Guest Room. We wanted Restaurant Tyler to have its own bar, but it had to resemble the food. So, with the farm-to-table movement and craft cocktail movement, everything went to parallel to that.” In a college town filled with standing-room-only bars and neon-colored shots, The Guest Room is catering to the more mature post-grad crowd. The space’s designer, Amanda Shafer, played off the exposed brick and natural wood with dark tones and rustic decor. The Guest Room’s pre-prohibition ambience is at once timeless and squarely on-trend. On the walls, you will find a large vintage mirror and framed portraits. The largest face staring back is the infamous Machine Gun Kelly,

who attended Mississippi State University for one semester, according to Thames. Rumor has it that Kelly’s highest grade was a C in Hygiene. Overhead hang mounted animals, two small bobcats perched on a piece of wood and a boar’s head. The focal point of the room is the copper-topped bar, surrounded by tufted bar stools and cozy booths. Bringing Thames’ and Kelley’s vision to life was more of an undertaking than they had hoped. The basement was originally a dirt floor and the ceilings were so low you could not stand up straight. Contractor after contractor quit during the renovation until one called in the local high school football team for a unique summer workout regimen. The food is upscale Southern fare with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients, much like its sister restaurant, Restaurant Tyler. On the seasonal menu, you will find new takes on classics, like cold-smoked pork chops, risotto with Vardaman sweet potato gnocchi, and fried catfish with muscadine butter sauce and dill pickle pesto. The drinks feature fresh juices, seasonal bitters and quirky names like the Game of Thorns, Bob from Carskadon, named for a local sports writer, and Summer in Vegas, which one can only presume refers to the magical months when school is out and StarkVegas moves at a slower pace. Visit mudandmag.com to see Cody Roberts, one of The Guest Room’s bartenders, create a Barista’s Handshake. M

Photos by Blake McCollum Photography mudandmag.com

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Velvet Cream Velvet Cream, or “The Dip” as many locals call it, has been continuously operating longer than any other business in Desoto County. If you ask current owner Tommy Flinn Jr. how to attain that kind of longevity, he will give you a simple answer: “One customer at a time.” By Carmen Cristo

continued on page 74

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• Pharmacy • Soda Fountain • Earth Grace • Sassy Pants Pottery • Melissa & Doug • Stephen Joseph

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Tommy Flinn Jr.

ee Lauderdale opened Velvet Cream on July 23, 1947, on a part of his property that had previously been a cotton field. When it opened, Hernando wasn’t much more than houses on a gravel road. Somehow, Velvet Cream has survived through its tremendous growth and the opening and closing of many other establishments. Tom Flinn Sr. purchased the restaurant in 1962. He had owned a similar business in Tunica, Mississippi, prior to the purchase called Delta Cream. To say Tommy Jr. grew up in the food business is an understatement. “There was a baby bed inside Delta Cream,” he said. “I was there when I was one week old.” Tommy Jr. was 10 years old when his parents purchased Velvet Cream. It has been a family operation since, employing relatives and local high school-age kids. Today, Tommy Jr. runs the place, but Tom Sr. still comes in every morning and cleans the ice cream machines at the age of 82. Tommy Jr.’s sister LeeAnn Kutz, his niece Brittany Kutz, his son Trey and daughter April are all regular staffers. The fast-food restaurant and ice cream shop opened as a walk-up eatery, just as it is today. It offered a short menu, mostly hamburgers, vanilla ice cream and bottled sodas. In a growing locale, adaptation is the name of the game. It was not long until Velvet Cream was serving all three classic flavors (vanilla, chocolate an strawberry), a luxury for the time, and adding a drive-thru window that they had to teach many patrons how to use. In modern times, Velvet Cream sits right of Hernando’s bustling downtown square. It’s known for its fried delicacies, 258 shake flavors and generous portions. They also serve sno-

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cones, yogurts, Hawaiian ice, dipped cones and a myriad of burgers piled high with toppings. What has not changed is the clientele. For decades, Velvet Cream has been the spot for local teenagers to hang out. It was the store’s younger customers that began calling it “The Dippy Dough” in the 1950s, which eventually became “The Dip,” an endearing nickname passed down through generations of patrons. “It was about the same time rock-and-roll became rock that ‘The Dippy Dough’ became ‘The Dip,’” Tommy Jr. said. The building has undergone some changes, too. A couple hundred square feet of space has been added here and there until 2016, when a large addition was built to host parties. More renovations are coming in the next few years, mostly cosmetic. Velvet Cream sells enough sandwiches to keep the lights on year-round, but the warmer weather brings peak season. The “Dip” experience is as much atmosphere as it is taste. Day and night, you will find droves of people standing in line. There are no tables, so they stand huddled, catching up with family and longtime friends, or sit in their cars with the windows down. “This is the kind of place where I know if one of my customers had a baby. If it’s a teenager, I know their parents and I’m watching them to make sure they’re staying out of trouble. We are friends,” Tommy Jr. said. “With a small, familyowned business, we run for election every day of the year.” For many who call Hernando and the surrounding areas home, the draw is pure nostalgia. The sign and neon lights are remnants of a simpler time. The Dip is a landmark, welcoming them home. M Photos by Lauren Wood

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Dr. Jayant Dey, M.D. Ashli Kovalick, CNP Dottie Carnathan, CNP Accepting new patients for specialized care of Diabetes, Endocrine and Metabolic Disorders. For appointments call: 662-377-6275

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Ericaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shaved Ice Sno-cones have long been a staple of Mississippi summers and Ericaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shaved Ice adds a new spin on the classic. By Ellie Turner

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hat started as a permanent stand in Bruce, Mississippi, has three years later become a mobile stand based in Tupelo. One of the first steps in the transition was finding the perfect mobile unit. Erica Warren, owner of Belle Ame Salon and Spa and Divine Culture Boutique, wanted something fun and retro to serve her gourmet treats from, and after searching far and wide, found CH Campers based in Chattanooga. The company remakes vintage Shasta RVs and allow customers to customize everything from paint color to floors. After perfecting the fuschia color on the outside and adding custommade wings to the back, Warren was ready to transfer supplies from the Bruce stand to the mobile unit and move to Tupelo. For now the mobile stand is parked outside of Belle Ame Salon on McCullough. While customers can opt for a tried-and-true flavor of shaved ice, there are other options including specialty snocones like Key Lime Pie - with graham cracker crumbs as a

topping. The specialties were perfected over the past three years and have been tested and approved by family. Warren’s father loves the Butter Pecan Lovin’ which is a sno-cone with butter pecan syrup, cream and whipped cream. Any cone can be “stuffed” which means a scoop of ice cream is in the middle. Warren’s favorite is strawberry syrup, a scoop of vanilla ice cream with marshmallow cream on top. Open Monday through Saturday from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m., Erica’s Shaved Ice also sets up at festivals and private parties when available. One notable festival they were invited to was the 2016 Silobration, of Magnolia Market and Fixer Upper fame. Warren submitted the application, complete with photos of the stand and some of the treats. They were one of only three food vendors chosen. Warren says it was one of the coolest experiences because they were the only one from Mississippi and were able to meet Chip and Joanna Gaines personally. Boasting 43 flavors and 7 different toppings, customers can score the most elaborate sno-cone for around $5. M

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Chocolate Soufflé Ingredients: 1/3 cup cocoa powder 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/3 cup sugar + extra to prep bowls 1 egg yolk pinch of salt 4 egg whites 1 tablespoon sugar Directions: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Brush soufflé dishes with melted butter, and then sprinkle in sugar to coat the inside of the bowl. Tap out the excess sugar. Cut strips of parchment paper that are twice the height of the bowl to make a collar around each.

Tie or tape together. In a heat-safe bowl, combine the cocoa powder, heavy cream and sugar. Set bowl over pot with simmering water (not boiling) and stir. Mixture should be smooth. Remove the bowl from the pot, and mix in the egg yolk and pinch of salt. Let cool to room temperature. Beat the egg whites with a mixer until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1 tablespoon of sugar until incorporated. Fold in half of the meringue into the cooled chocolate mixture with a spatula. Once mixed in, fold in the rest of the meringue. Divide the soufflé mixture into the prepared bowls, filling dishes completely. Place bowls on a cookie sheet and place in the oven. Bake for around 20 minutes, or until puffed up and tops feel firm. Serve immediately. They fall quickly! Photo by Lauren Wood

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M&M

Dining Guide RUSH HOUR

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The Painted Cookie By Carmen Cristo

According to her, Angie Turner has the best job in the world. She is the owner and artist of The Painted Cookie in Olive Branch, Mississippi. For nine years, she has been spreading her “designer sugar” across the region. At one time, Turner was a stay-at-home mom. If she needed a small gift in a pinch, she would make cookies. When a family tragedy hit and turned her world upside down, she needed a source of income to support her children, but her choices were limited. With a little creativity and a lot of hard work, she turned a bitter memory into something pretty sweet. “To me, it was most important to do something where I could also be home with my kids, like I had been before,” she said. Turner’s business began with doctors’ offices and spread by word-of-mouth. Soon, she was baking cookies for birthdays, 82

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showers, weddings, reunions and corporate events. Before long, she was moving her kitchen into the bonus room upstairs. “I spent a year perfecting my cookie recipe when it took off,” Turner said. “It has to look good and taste good.” Now, that kitchen has seen more than one million cookies pass through, with Turner free-handing every single one. Turner’s success is just icing on the cookie; what really drives her is getting to be part of others’ special moments in some small way. “It’s a vessel,” she said. “You’d be amazed at the people I have met because of these cookies.” You can find The Painted Cookie at Sugar Magnolia in Oxford, Mississippi; Paisley Pineapple in Olive Branch, Mississippi; and on Etsy. Photos by Lauren Wood

DOSSETT BIG 4

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