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REAL LIFE

REAL LIFE

A night sky lit by fireflies signals summer and offers another way to enjoy the great outdoors.

Beautiful Bright -and-

Discover a hidden gem in northwest Alabama.

By Jennifer Stewart Kornegay / Photography by Big Dreamz Creative

O U T S I D E AL

Let It

Dismals Canyon, an 85-acre nature preserve in Northwest Alabama, boasts a long list of things to marvel at during the day. But at night, it transforms into a fairly land lit by hundreds (sometimes thousands) of blue-green pinpricks from the resident “dismalites,” rare bioluminescent insects that are found only a few other places on earth and hardly anywhere else in the large groupings that thrive on the canyon walls.

The larvae stage of a gnat, dismalites emit their signature glimmer to tempt food into their webs. They eat flying insects and are the reason the canyon is almost mosquito-free. They illume during the day as well, but it’s impossible for the human eye to detect them then.

Since their discovery (and they’re still beings studied), the dismalites have become the main attraction at the canyon, managing to outshine its other awe-inspiring aspects with their soft glow. Guided night tours in the canyon allow a close encounter with these strange little creatures, whose luminance twinkling only feet away in the thick darkness looks like stars that have come down to earth.

The creatures letting their light shine might not be what you think.

What’s in a ?

Dismals Canyon’s gloomy name has nothing to do with its looks and was never meant to serve as a description. It’s simply a case of “lost in translation.” The ScotchIrish immigrants who settled in the area centuries ago couldn’t pronounce the name of the Native American Chief who claimed the canyon; the closest they could get was “Dismal,” and the title stuck. So, what’s in a name? Here, at least, not much.

PINK YOUR RIDE

Sweeping views and delicate details fill Dismals Canyon with interesting sights.

RETREAT

Dismals Canyon may not sound all that enticing, but its name belies the beauty this 85-acre nature preserve contains within its borders. It’s actually a bright spot in the state’s prodigious portfolio of scenic splendor, and one that despite being somewhat hidden, draws people from all over the country and around the world.

Outside of the little town of Phil Campbell, Dismals Canyon is tucked among the hills and valleys at the southern terminus of the Appalachian mountains. The rocky gorge and the land surrounding it are privately owned but are designated a National Natural Landmark by the National Park Service.

It’s a spot begging to be explored, and the current owners allow that. They’ve added some decking and simple wooden bridges to make it easy but also left as much as possible untouched.

Begin at the visitor’s center (which also houses a gift shop and soda fountain) where you pay your admission and grab a map of the canyon (and a root beer float and juicy burger if you’re hungry). Start the real discovery at the top of roaring Rainbow Falls, a glittering cascade that marks the beginning of the canyon and feeds Dismals Branch, the pristine stream that snakes across the center of the canyon floor and is a remnant of the water that steadily pushed its way through stone to slowly cut and carve the deep crevice.

A 1.5-mile loop trail winds along the bank of the stream and through a consistently cool, natural wonderland. Here, ancient rock reaches up to

AWAITS

Rainbow Falls is a favorite spot along the Dismals Canyon trail.

form the walls of the yawning ravine, while sunlight filtering through tree branches paints a pattern of light on the moss and ferns carpeting the sandy ground. Thanks to the canyon’s bio-diversity, there’s plenty to see and do.

in deep woodlands filled with old-growth hemlock, tulip poplar, bigleaf magnolia and beech. Every season, new wildflowers add their pops of brilliant color, and Alabama’s largest Canadian Hemlock stretches up a record 138 feet from a plateau on the canyon wall.

rocks and delve into caverns. Nooks and crannies in the walls and free-standing sandstone boulders form secret passageways leading to concealed rock rooms with ceilings of only sky; some have smoke stains, evidence they were used by Native Americans as kitchens. An infamous local criminal Rube Burrors alluded authorities for weeks in the canyon, holing up in a grotto called “Burr’s Hideout.”

in the natural pool above Rainbow Falls or splash around in the stream below and search for endangered Hellbender Salamanders, massive rare amphibians that have recently been found in Dismals Canyon.

Or just stand still and gaze at waterfalls. At Secret Falls, 27 different species of trees live within 100 feet of the cataract, creating a natural arboretum. When most of our state is sizzling each summer, Dismals Canyon offers a refreshing escape, with temps 10-14 degrees cooler than the rest of the area plus ample shade.

Learn more, get a spot on an upcoming night tour and book a stay at one of the cabins at dismalscanyon.com.

Beat Heat -the-

A daytrip to Dismals Canyon is nice, but to truly discover all the wonders it holds, a weekend is even better. Primitive camping down in the canyon is allowed with a permit, and there are also two rustic cabins for rent. The night tours are seasonal and require reservations (and spots fill up fast), so be sure to plan ahead.

PINK YOUR RIDE

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