3 minute read
THE DISH
HEART
grab a seat HOMESTYLE
By Jennifer Stewart Kornegay Photography by Big Dreamz Creative
Auburn has a new go-to spot for barbecue lovers
offering a delicious mix of styles, sauces and sides inspired by two states. Put a visit to Bow & Arrow in your sights.
Only open since November 2018, Bow & Arrow in Auburn has already earned a reputation for delivering trophy experiences to diners hunting for a hearty meal seasoned with some of the playful creativity that owner chef David Bancroft has employed to put his first restaurant Acre on the national culinary map. With its name pulled from one of Bancroft’s favorite pastimes, the eatery’s decor goes whole-hog on the hunting theme (including huntingscene sketches by local artist Andrew Lee elevating the butcher paper that lines guests’ trays). But the lodge-meets-cafeteria ambiance is secondary to the meat-heavy menu, a slow-smoked selection influenced by a blend of Bancroft’s Texas roots, his memories of meals with his Alabama grandparents and the foods he’s experienced since making Alabama his home. It’s all expertly executed by Bow & Arrow’s executive chef Caleb Fischer. (He’s long been Bancroft’s right-hand man at Acre.) And Fischer is evident in the menu too, especially in the desserts, which are based on some of his family recipes. Right through the door, you’re greeted by garlands of plump shiny sausages,
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glistening slabs of ribs and black hunks of beef brisket hanging or resting on Bow & Arrow’s custom Kudu grill and smoker that looks like a rotating poem of protein. Step into the chow line, and a guy wielding one of several large knives retrieves your meat of choice, slices off your portion and sets it on your metal tray (temporarily hiding the artwork on the afore-mentioned paper).
Next you choose from a buffet-line of homestyle sides (lima beans, mac ‘n cheese, creamed corn, collards and more). Round your selections out with fresh, scratch-made tortillas or slices of homemade white bread, both useful for sopping up juices and sauces. And there are so many sauces. Bancroft and Fischer have gone a bit condiment crazy, offering multiple barbecue sauces, salsas, pickles, hot sauces and a chow-chow so good you could make a meal just from it. The Alabama white sauce is a standout too, providing the perfect tang and zip to cut through the richness of the brisket or the spice of the sausage.
When you make it to your table, a quick examination of the pile of food you’ve amassed makes it clear, restraint is not a strong suit here. Still, it’s worth a try. Thanks to the hefty portion size and the way the food is served, it’s the kind of meal that begs sharing. After you “ooh, yummmm” over a bite, feel free to push a forkful of whatever it was to your dining companion’s face. And while it’s tempting to keep the good tastes going, don’t stuff yourself. Bow & Arrow offers boxes and bags for leftovers so you can enjoy it all again later. The food at Bow & Arrow is all expertly executed by executive chef Caleb Fischer. He’s long been owner David Bancroft’s righthand man at Acre. Fischer is especially evident in the desserts, which are based on some of his family recipes.
