Lash Bible by A. Babe Beauty

Page 1

Lash BY A. BABE BEAUTY

module one Anatomy of the eye | Lash layers | Growth phases

cornea: a clear window at the front of the eye, covers the iris and the pupil.

Foreign Object in the Eye such as dirt, an eyelash, a contact lens, or makeup, can cause eye symptoms. Objects may scratch the surface of the eye (cornea) or become stuck on the eye. If the cornea is scratched, it can be hard to tell whether the object has been removed, because a scratched cornea may feel painful and as though something is still in the eye. Most corneal scratches are minor and heal on their own in 1 or 2 days. causes of damage to the eye

The eye has many parts that must work together to produce clear vision sclera: white part of the eye, protects the eyeball.

iris: coloured part of the eye, surrounds the pupil. It controls how much light enters the eye by changing the size of the pupil.

retina: is a light-sensitive inner lining at the back of the eye. Ten different layers of cells work together in the retina to detect light and turn it into electrical impulses.

ANATOMY EYE

pupil: black dot at the centre of the eye, is an opening through which light can enter the eye.

Chemical Burns can occur if a solid chemical, liquid chemical, or chemical fumes get into the eye. Many substances will not cause damage if they are flushed out of the eye quickly. It may take 24 hours after the burn to determine the seriousness of an eye burn. Chemical fumes and vapours can also irritate the eyes..

Lashes grow on average in 3-4 layers, and the layers are counted from the lowest to the highest when working professionally. This means that when you’re looking at lash extensions styling, the first layer is the one that’s the closest to the customer’s cheeks, and the highest is the one closest to the lash artist.

The upper lashes are stronger, thicker, and more numerous than lower lashes.

The upper eyelid has 100-160 lashes on average, while the average number of lashes on the lower eyelid is 70-80.

LASH LAYERS

Sometimes the higher your metabolism, the faster you will shed. Drugs, alopecia, hormones, playing with, pulling or con stantly touching your lashes and your general overall eating and health can all play a part in your shedding cycle as well. So, try not to freak out when you see a lash extension or two on your cheek or you're pillow when you wake in the morning. Instead, understand that it is part of the natural growth process and seize the oppor tunity to make a wish with your fallen lash!

The Anagen phase is where the hair is still attached to the dermal papilla/blood supply. In this phase, the lashes are in active growth, and it lasts between 30-45 days. About 35%-40% of the upper lashes and about 15% of the lower lashes are in the anagen phase at any one time. Each lash will grow to a specific length and then stop. (Transition Phase) The second phase is the catagen (transitional phase) where the eyelash stops growing and the follicle shrinks (lasts about 2-3 weeks). If a lash falls out or is plucked out during this phase the lash will not grow back immediate ly because the follicle needs to complete the catagen phase before it can move on to the next phase. (Resting Phase) The third phase is the telogen (which is the resting phase). This phase can last up to 90 days before the eyelashes fall out, and a new lash begins to grow.

LASH PHASE

Typically, the whole cycle averages about 60 days. When your natural lash falls out there is one waiting to take its place. Consider the following if you feel you may be losing too many lashes. Depending on your lash growth cycle, you can lose anywhere from 1 to 5 natural lashes per day. Let us average the loss of natural lashes to 3 per day on one eye. If you lose 3 lashes per day, you will lose 21 per week, 42 in 2 weeks and up to 63 lashes in a 3-week period on one eye alone. Again, this is (more or less) lash loss based on your natural lash cycle.

ANAGEN CATAGEN TELOGEN (Active Growth Phase)

module Curl types | thickness, & lengths | Classic ∙ hybrid ∙volume two

Are the softest natural curl, can appear longer because it does not curl much but offers the best retention.

Types of lashes: Extensions are produced in a wide range of thickness, lengths, and curls.

One of the curlier curls, retention may not be as good as with J or B or C/CC, but adds drama and opens the eye more, making it great for heavy eyelids. Is just what it says “L” shaped extensions like using an eyelash curler a little too much, where the lashes are bent upwards. It offers a super dramatic effect. L+ is slightly curlier.

Are a soft curl, standard for a natural enhanced lash appearance with good retention. This appears to be the most popular curl; it is glamorous and opens the eye. CC is between a C and a D for an added lift, and is considered super glamorous, and offers good retention, but not as good as compared with J or B.

TYPESCURL C/CCBJDL/L+

Curl types

The lashes could also be too heavy. Therefore, when choosing eyelash extensions, the rule of thumb is that the extensions should be at 3mm-5mm longer than your natural lashes. Moreover, the diameter of the extensions should be as close as possible to the diameter of your natural lashes. The thicker the diameter is than that of your natural lashes, the more drastic the change will be. So if you want to achieve a dramatic look with long eyelash extensions, go for a thin diameter. This way, you can reduce the weight and achieve balance.

Eyelash Extension Thicknesses range from .03mm to .30mm .03mm, .05mm and .07mm Extremely thin and extremely lightweight and used mostly for Volume 2D-6D lashes, or to fill in gaps, and used on very thin/ very fine natural lashes.

Most lashes come in lengths from 5mm-25mm. Most clients want their longest extension length to be around 13-14mm or 15mm. Of course, everyone wants the longest lashes, but it is important to keep in mind that the length of your natural lash, the density of your natural lash, your lifestyle and how you care for your extensions all play a major role in the safety of your natural lashes and longevity of the eyelash extensions.

At Lash Lovers, we keep 7mm to 17mm in most curls, with the occasional 5mm to 6mm. We also keep diameter variants between 0.05, 0.07 and 0.15 with the occasional 0.03 and 0.20. Extension Lengths

Eyelash

.10mm/.12mm This thickness can also be used for Volume 2D (depending on the natural lash thickness and length) or as Classic 1D on thinner very fine natural lashes.

It is recommended that you start with the least amount of length to get the best results as far and longevity for your extensions and to preserve the integrity you're natural lashes. Choosing the wrong length of eyelash extensions could damage your natural lashes. Additionally, they will make you uncomfortable, and you might look creepy.

Eyelash Extension Thickness

.15mm This is the average lash thickness, creates a natural thicker look (Classic 1D). .20mm This lash extension thickness creates a natural mascara look. .25mm Creates a more striking glamorous look, this lash may be too heavy for most people’s lashes. .30mm For healthy, strong, thick natural lashes. Creates an extreme look – again, may be too heavy for most people’s lashes.

CLASSICHYBRIDVOLUME

volume∙hybrid∙classic

Classic lashes are simple natural looking lash extensions. They are applied on a 1:1 ratio, which means one extension on one natural lash. This look is best for someone who are looking for a mascara look

Hybrid lashes are a mix between classic lashes and volume lashes. This gives you the best of both worlds. Volume lashes offer a full look that gives your client serious glamor. These lashes involve applying a fan of lash extensions to one eye.

module Sanitizing disinfecting sterilizing | Allergy and reactions Consultation & contraindication three

To sterilize your tools, let the instruments soak in boiling water for 20 minutes and carefully remove them with tools like pinchers and air dry them, and keep them in a container. High heat is the best way to complete the elimination of bacteria.

5 Sanitation: - Wash hands with anti-bacterial soap - All tools must be disinfected after each client - BARBICIDE (disinfectant solution used for sterilizing tools)

4. How to Sterilize Your Lash Supplies: If you want to be extra squeaky clean with your tools, this is a method for you. However, note that this method should only be used for heat-resistant products, like tweezers or jade stone (DO NOT use this method on any plastic products).

- Throw out any reusable tools immediately after use

• Disinfecting: Using products that contain Barbicide or Germicides, reduce bacteria to a safe level.

• Cleaning: Using warm water and soap. This method helps to eliminate surface particles.

• Sterilizing: Using high heat to eliminate bacteria. This method is the most effective in terms of killing all living organisms such as bacteria, fungi, and viruses on hard surfaces.

• Sanitizing: Using alcohol-based products to eliminate or reduce bacteria.

2. How to Sanitize Your Workstation: First, get rid of everything that is non-reusable. This includes eye pads, micro-brushes, and lash wands. To ensure that your workstation's hygiene is always in check, we recommend that you sanitize everything you touched during the service with a disinfectant wipe after a day of work. When it comes to tools that touched the client's lashes, such as tweezers directly, make sure to sanitize the tip of the tweezers with alcohol or peroxide after every session.

3. How to Disinfect Your Lash Supplies:

Sanitizing disinfecting sterilizing Four Methods of Decontamination:

1. How to Clean Your Hands: Make sure that your hands are always sanitized and free from any contamination by washing them thoroughly in between clients with warm water and soap for at least 30 seconds. Also, place a bottle of hand sanitizer at your station during the service. The most effective way to use the hand sanitizer is to apply at least a dime-sized amount to the palm of one hand and rub both palms together for 30 seconds.

Before disinfecting your tools, make sure always to clean any visible debris off your instruments first, as any debris left on the surface may lead to cross contamination. To disinfect your tools, prepare an approved hospital-grade disinfectant to manufacturer's instructions. Ensure all tools are fully submerged for a specific amount of time. When time is up, remove tools from soak with clean tongs to avoid recontamination. Dry tools with a clean towel or allow them to air dry.

Many of the symptoms associated with an irritation can mimic the symptoms of an allergic reaction. So here’s how we’ll distinguish between the two – An irritation gets better overtime while allergies worsen over time. Irritations usually occur when the fumes from the adhesive enter the eye due to poor pad placement, opening your eye during the service, or poor ventilation in the lash suite. Gas molecules of cyanoacrylate can cause itchiness, red puffy eyes, and can affect the inside of your eye (the sclera,) causing it to become red and irritated. If the redness/itchiness does not go away or at least significantly improve within 24-48 hours, then it may be an allergic reaction. It is also important to keep in mind that seasonal allergies can contribute to the symptoms.If you are someone who suffers from seasonal allergies. Another concern that may cause a minor irritation is the placement of the under-eye gel pads. If they move around during the service to the point that they also touch the sclera of the eye, it may cause some redness and soreness for a few days.Clients who have watery eyes, seasonal allergies, or are talking during their appointment may experience eye pad movement. Sometimes this movement is so minimal that it’s unseen from the Lash Artist’s point of view. Therefore, it’s extremely important to let your Lash Artist know of any discomfort or concerns during your visit.

Lash allergy and reactions

What is an Irritation?

You can actually developan allergy to lashadhesives even if youwere not allergic to themin the past?

We’ve all heard the claim that our bodies completely change every seven years. Well, this new cell generation can cause reactions to allergens that we never experienced before. Another common allergy game-changer is hormones. For example, pregnant women often experience allergy symptoms to all kinds of new allergens due to changing levels of estrogen. DID YOU KNOW?

An allergy is a hypersensitive response of the immune system to an allergen. These hypersensitive responses can cause a variety of adverse reactions.Occasionally, lash clients may be allergic to the adhesive itself OR to ingredients in the adhesive. Although a client may be allergic to the carbon black or another cyanoacrylate, these allergies are extremely rare. Allergic reactions may result in red puffy eyes, swollen eyes, and/or itchiness. These symptoms may not appear immediately. Sometimes, it can take up to 3 days before you notice any type of reaction. If you start experiencing these symptoms, they may last until the adhesive is off of your eye completely. The reaction may continue to worsen for as long as the eye is exposed to the adhesive. In fact, the more exposure that you have to a specific allergen, the reaction can progress over time.

What is an Allergy?

Lorem

Contraindications for

· Moles and warts · Contact lenses · Hypersensitive skin · Contagious skin conditions around the

Extensions are individually attached to natural eyelashes giving a totally natural feel and look. If cared properly, the extensions will last until natural eyelash it is attached to sheds. Your client does need to have natural eyelashes to be a suitable candidate for eyelash exten sions. Anyone who has lost their eyelashes, suffer from alopecia, or chemotherapy patients cannot have eyelash extensions. This is because eyelash extensions are required to be glued to natural eyelash.

area · Stys · Dry eye syndrome · Recent eye surgery

be: · Inflamed or swollen eye · Infectious

to the

of the

Consultation & contraindication

A contra-indication is a factor which prevents the client from being suitable to have a treat ment. This is usually a medical condition. Contraindications can be permanent, temporary, or area specific. While having some contraindications may mean a client isn’t suitable at all for treatment, others may be worked around. A client with a contagious disease should not have any sort of treatment preformed on them to avoid cross contamination. The contraindication will only last for a period that the client has the contagious disease. eye treatments may eye conjunctivitis puffiness eye area scars eye area eye

Contraindications:

The Consultation:

· Cuts, bruises, abrasions, or recent

· Redness or

disorders such as

Every single woman would love to have long eyelashes that enhance the beauty of their eyes. During the consultation the client should be given a choice of looks for example, longer lashes, thicker lashes, or even colored lashes. Consideration should also be given to the overall look the client is hoping for and whether it is achievable. This is to make sure their expectations are managed. It is also good to run through the after-care procedures, so the client is fully aware of how to take care of eyelash extensions. Most importantly during the consultation you must examine the eye area for any abnormal scabs, bumps, and abnormal color in the eye. What your client should know during the consultation …

module Lash adhesive | Primer and gel pad application | Correct glue dipping Loremfouripsum

Sensitive Clients:

Higher humidity often leads to quicker solidification of the lash adhesive called ‘shock polymerization’ where the external layer solidifies too fast without letting the inside bond aptly. On the flip side, low-humidity levels might require excess time for drying.

Eyelash extensions adhesive are acrylate adhesives and must be handled carefully. Eyelash extension glue contains several ingredients the main being cyanoacrylate. The more cyanoacrylate the higher the glue strength. It is the cyanoacrylate in the glue that some people develop an allergic reaction. Cyanoacrylate is responsible for the extension adhering to the natural lash. This is the actual “sticky” part of the adhesive. As it polymerizes, the liquid adhesive becomes solid. Polymerization occurs when the cyanoacrylate encounters water. In this process, fumes are given off from the adhesive which can cause some clients to experience irritation during their lash appointment. Some clients may experience high levels of discomfort, while others may experience little to no irritation. Running a fan during the application can help in lowering the amount of discomfort the client may experience.

Lash adhesive

Firstly, let’s distinguish the fine differences between drying and curing.

That’s why your lash tech might warn you against getting the false eyelashes wet before the curing period is over.

Sensitive clients require sensitive adhesive with fast drying, less irritation, difference in retention.

Humidity is your best friend no matter if you’re going for a lash extension treatment or doing one. Let’s cut to the chase. Bonding between the extension and natural lash happens due to a chemical reaction between the humidity present in the air and cyanoacrylate, the main ingredient present in lash adhesives. You should always keep the ideal humidity for your lash extension adhesive in check. That being said, the humidity conditions for all types of lash extension adhesives on the market aren’t the same. That’s why it’s important to check the instructions from the manufacturer when using such an adhesive. For instance, one manufacturer might suggest keeping the humidity 40% and above while another might mandate humidity of 60% and above. Lash techs not only need humidity detectors but ways to regulate it at the salon for appropriate applica tion of the adhesive.

Most lash extension adhesives last over 6 months if you make sure to store it the right way. For those concerned with the shelf life of lash extension adhesives, the norm is 1 month.

Expired lash glue isn’t hard to distinguish. Lash adhesives may seem runny, sticky, or even different in smell when they get damaged due to drastic temperature differences.

How to Make the Curing Process Faster?

Drying is when the lash adhesive dries from outside so that lash techs continue adding exten sions after one another without the adhesive clumping multiple lashes together.

For some sensitive clients if an allergic reaction occurs remove the lashes. If a client refuses to remove eyelash extensions while an allergic reaction has taken place, be sure to document that you have disclosed all necessary information

The eyelash extension glue is designed to stay fixed on the natural lash until it naturally sheds. However, excessive heat, salt chlorine and oil can degrade this lash bond and cause it to fall prematurely.

Curing is when the adhesive dries inside-out by using the moisture present in the atmosphere. It may take 4 to 24 hours depending on the adhesive you’re using to lash together extensions.

ipsum

Gel pads are used to hold down lower lashes preventing the upper and lower lashes from sticking together. Gel pads also protect the skin from any product such as adhesive. Place silicone gel pad or lint free gel pad on tips of the lower lashes below the waterline. The lower lashes may be covered with surgical tape if necessary. Use small sections of tape to cover small areas at a time until all lower lashes are covered. If the gel pad appears to pucker, remove and try again, the gel pads and or tape must lay flat. The pad is adjustable and may need to be applied using a different start point.

LOWER LASHES MUST BE COMPLETELY COVERED WITH TAPE / GEL PADS

Priming

Priming is virtual too successful bonding. Be sure to prime before application. This will ensure u have clean lashes with no residue to create perfect bonding. Removing any salt, oil or other debris from the natural lashes is crucial in ensuring clients receive the best retention possible. Individuals with active lifestyles and oiler skin and lashes often experience poor retention. Priming should be done prior to all fill and full set appointments to ensure the best retention possible.

Gel Pads

PRIMER AND GEL PAD APPLICATON

Be sure to dip half of the extension into your adhesive. The faster you dip your extension into the adhesive the bigger the droplet you will accumulate at the bottom of the extension. By slowly dipping your extension into the adhesive you’ll accumulate the perfect amount of adhesive. Reasons not to swipe andcover the entire extension in adhesive: Removes all flexibility the extension has making the lashes feel very stiff Excess adhesive will make your extensions look dirty, unnatural and messy Excess adhesive adds additional weight to the set (5XDIPPINGGLUECORRECT

module Isolation | Application and procedure | Fill in | Removal five

Isolating lashes is fundamental to long lasting lashes and 100% bonding. Isolation is one of the most important components to creating a beautiful, healthy set of eyelash extensions. The reason some extensions look so unnatural is because of poor isolation. When proper isolation and application are not being done properly damage to the natural lashes will occur. When a natural lash is ready to shed, if it is attached to its neighboring lash, it will be unable to shed resulting in damage occurring. In some circumstances styes and ingrown hairs can occur as a result of the natural lashes being unable to shed properly. If poor isolation has occurred your client may complain of a pokey, pulling sensation. In order to avoid lashes sticking together always work away from the last lash applied

After gluing your eyelash extensions, your technician will gently separate any extensions and natural lashes that may have stuck together. Once all the lashes are bonded to your natural lashes. The eyelash expert will allow the glue too dry. This process only takes a few minutes; this may be followed with a last round of separation.Yourtechnician will remove the patches that were placed on your lower lashes and discuss after-care instructions which include how long you can expect your new lashes to last and when you may need to revisit for a refill.

Be sure client fills out consent form Be sure to tell the client how long the service will take (beginners 2.53.5 hrs.) depending on which set No contacts, or mascara Keep eyes close during application BE SURE TO REMEMBER….

After cleaning the eye area, your technician will apply eye patches to your lower lashes to keep them out of the way while working on your upper lid. If this is your first experience with extensions, this taping may feel a bit weird but should not Yourhurt.lash specialist will brush through your natural lashes and choose the appropriate length of lash extension and begin to apply them one at a time, adhering them to an individual natural lash using professional eyelash glue. It is typical that the number of lashes used is around 150-200 lashes, so your appointment will take about 2 to 3 hours. Don’t worry, most find the experience relaxing.

Problem Lashes: It may be difficult to get 100% bonding with the following: Curly lashes or Baby

Procedure12345 and Application

ISOLATION

Client’s eyes must be close throughout treatment Do not leak adhesive or remover into eyes, if this occurs flush eyes with saline solution or water immediately. If client continues to experience discomfort, contact a physician

Procedure:lashes

Clients requesting a more natural look recommend a less curly extension, longer lengths, lighter densities and perhaps a more natural lash shape.

Have a consult with your client, ask he or she how they liked their lashes? Is there anything they want to Clientschange?requesting a more dramatic look recommend a curlier extension, shorter lengths, thicker densities and perhaps a more dramatic lash shape.

Sanitize hands, tools and workstation.

Apply gel pads and tape bottom lashes down. Have your client look up at the celling, this will expose the sclera. Use 1 and 1/2 inch pieces of tape and create a wide “X.” Start by taping the outer corner lashes, followed by the inner corner lashes. Remember that the eyelid is stretched when the client is looking up, therefore ensure the tape is not applied too close as this will cause your client irritation. Corneal abrasions and broken blood vessels occur when taping is done incorrectly.Cleansethe lashes with Lash Up Primer to balance the ph levels of the natural lashes and remove any excess Bananaoils.Peel any extensions that are grown out. Remember each extension applied should be applied 1 to 2mm from the lash line, any extensions further than 1 to 2mm must be removed as these extensions are grown out. Using your dominant hand, use tweezers to grab the tip of the extension and gently pull back to force the split at the base of the extensions

STEPS FOR COMPLETING

Your clients should return for a fill every two to three weeks. If you can keep them on this schedule, they should never need a full set again. However, if clients wait longer than two to four weeks for their fills, it is more likely that they will need a full set due to the number of lash extensions they’ve lost. A service or application is typically considered a full set when the client has less than 30% of their extensions remaining.

Continuing to hold the extension at the base with you left tweezers, and the tip with your right tweezer, gently using your left tweezer peel the extension from the natural lash in an upward motion After all of the grown-out extensions have been removed you're ready to begin applying extensions. Ensure that you’re properly isolating each natural lash prior to applying an extension. Repeat, until the “fill” has been completed.

fill-in

Using your left tweezers grab the extension at the base where the extension is split from the natural lash

lash removal Be sure eyes arefully closed Apply remover to the base of the eyelash extensions Allow remover to sit for 2-3 minutes Use disposable brush to remove lashes Have fan and water near the client incase burning occurs After all extensions are removed be sure that client rinses the eyes whipping down wards to avoid getting the remover in the eye.

MANUAL DESIGNED BY J. PARKER DESIGNS WWW.THEJPDESIGNS.COM | @JPARKERDESIGNS

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