Discover the unique charm of San Antonio, where every corner tells a story. From the vibrant River Walk to Texas’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site, experience a rich blend of Spanish, Mexican, and Cowboy cultures. Visit San Antonio and find authenticity at every turn. Plan a truly memorable trip now at VisitSanAntonio.com
Outdoor activities abound year-round in Yosemite Mariposa County! If climbing 914 meters up El Capitan’s granite walls is not your cup of tea, perhaps experiencing the rush at the base of Yosemite Falls is more to your liking?
Whatever your level of adventure, you can find great lodging options, itineraries and travel tips at
Welcome!
It's very exciting to be welcoming you to our first issue of JRNY America. Launching a new magazine is always a little daunting, but I'm confident that within these pages you'll find plenty to inspire and surprise you.
Each issue of JRNY America will focus on a theme, with one US destination at its heart. But there will also be lots of other features, too, with the aim – as always with JRNY – to shed new light on loved destinations and fill you in on those you might not be so aware of.
For this issue, we're looking at US cities. For many of us in the UK, it's the cities that first draw us Stateside. As a child, I spent many school holidays visiting my grandfather in Los Angeles, with days in theme parks, diners and the pool; trips that, along with the American TV I consumed, left me longing for an American life of my own. While that never quite happened, the itch was somewhat scratched by repeated visits as an adult back to LA and elsewhere, including the big hitters of New York City, New Orleans and San Francisco.
But, of course, there are many more exciting and amazing cities beyond the well-loved and well-known ones, and in this first issue
I love Yosemite NP for its stunning granite cliffs, towering waterfalls and beautiful meadows. But venture beyond the national park to find lesser-known trails offering equally breathtaking but quieter experiences.
Visiting a US city allows you to visit the world in one go. The diversity of any of the US's urban hubs means no two are alike. Everyone is here, and they've brought their best food, art and culture with them.
For me, Monterey is all about the sea. With a shoreline teeming With kelp forests, otters, Whales and dolphins, it has learned from its history to become a paradigm of marine conservation done right.
we've focused on San Antonio, Texas, famous as the site of the Alamo. Our Total Guide will help you get under the skin of this dynamic and exciting city, and we've also ventured beyond the city confines to help you plan an entire trip to this fascinating part of the Lones Star State.
There are plenty of other cities within these pages to captivate you, too, including Memphis, where music remains intrinsic to its history and future, and west-coast Monterery – perfect for underwater explorations. If your holiday preference is more scenery than cities, don't miss our guides to Yosemite and Oregon, which will help you get beyond the crowds and into the wild.
We hope you love this first issue!
Emma Gibbs Editor-in-Chief
I love the unexpected in Memphis: the fire-escape stairs alongside the B.B. King Blues Club that lead to Itta Bene Restaurant, and the reconstructed cinema in homage to the old STAX Records premises.
Infused with a spirit of freedom and adventure, from hiking in forests of the Pacific Northwest to swimming off the state's wonderfully wild beaches, Oregon is a place where you can truly live and breathe deep.
I've always been in awe of San Antonio, and especially love its alluring and beautiful Riverwalk. The cowboy culture, gastronomy and vibrant festivals make this underrated Texan city even more spectacular.
KAV DADFAR Mariposa County
CLAIRE DODD US Cities
RASHMI NARAYAN San Antonio
LAUREN JARVIS Oregon
LYNN HOUGHTON Memphis JAMES DRAVEN Monterey
SAN ANTONIO TOTAL GUIDE
The low-down on the best things to see, do and eat in this vibrant Southern city,
NATURAL BRIDGE CAVERNS
Head below the surface to explore one of Texas' hidden treasures.
BEST US CITIES
Thirty of the best city destinations, whether you're after sport, jazz, film history or ghost stories. In this issue...
MEMPHIS
50 09 58 28 66 36
From juke joints to recording studios, music is the ideal background to a visit here.
MONTEREY
Dive under the surface of this city on California's beautiful central coast.
TAMPA
Explore the city and the nature that surrounds it by following the Hillsborough River.
Photos: Kav Dadfar; See Monterey
BANDERA
Texas dude ranches provide a chance to live out cowboy dreams.
ATLANTA
History and culture combine with progress in this fascinating metropolis.
MARIPOSA COUNTY
Yosemite's big hitters might steal the show but there's plenty of hidden delights to discover.
PENSACOLA
Venture beyond the beaches of the City of Five Flags to learn its fascinating history.
SONOMA COUNTY
A food-led journey to experience the abundant produce of this Californian region.
OREGON
A road trip through this western state provides the opportunity to connect with nature.
MEET THE JRNY AMERICA TEAM
Co-founders: Kav Dadfar & Jordan Banks
Editor-in-Chief: Emma Gibbs
Head of Digital: Simon Willmore
Art Direction & Design: Jo Dovey
GET IN TOUCH
For general enquiries, partnerships or sales, email us at info@jrnymagazine.com
FIND US AT...
X @jrnymag
Website jrnymag.com
Instagram @jrnymag Issue One First published September 2024. ISSN 3049-4648 (Online)
Published in the UK by JRNY Magazine Limited JRNY America was printed by Warners Midlands, a family-owned printer established in 1926 Warners hold ISO 9001, ISO 14001, FSC® and PEFC certifications and are members of the IPIA and Twosides. Their Policy of continuous re-investment in people and plant has allowed them to significantly reduce their energy usage, carbon footprint and waste figures year on year with a recycling and reusing rate of over 99 9%. To find out more visit warners.co.uk.
Ne w s
Cirque du Soleil –Hawaiian style
The inimitable Cirque du Soleil will be unveiling their first resident production in Hawai'i in late 2024. Performing at the OUTRIGGER Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel, Cirque du Soleil will combine their usual artistry and acrobatics with Hawaiian mo'olelo (stories) and depictions of local, historical events through show-stopping storytelling. The show, 'Auana, was created in collaboration with community voices.
'Auana will open on 15 December, with performances at 5.30pm and 8.30pm from Wednesday to Sunday. cirquedusoleil.com/hawaii
Celebrate Black Los Angeles
LA is always a great city to visit in the autumn –not least because the temperature finally drops to more manageable levels – but this year sees the unveiling of an exciting new project: Destination
Crenshaw. Made up over 100 public artworks and striking new community spaces, this 1.3-mile stretch of Crenshaw Boulevard will form the largest public/private Black art programme in
If you think performances in Hawai'i are all about hula, it's time to think again
the country and also aims to revitalise the Crenshaw Corridor in South Los Angeles.
Sitting at the heart of the west coast's largest Black community, it's hoped that Destination Cranshaw
will help to elevate Black culture for visitors and Angeleans alike, while providing both economic and environmental regeneration for this area of the city. destinationcrenshaw.la
Photos: Erik Kabik; Perkins&
George Eastman Museum; Kav Dadfar; Studio Gang
The past in photographs
A new exhibition opens in October at the George Eastman Museum, Rochester, New York – the world's oldest photography museum – to celebrate its 75th anniversary. Life with Photographs: 75 Years of the Eastman Museum will explore the way that photographic objects have shaped our lives and will give visitors the chance to see some of the museum's lesserknown works.
The museum was established in 1949 in the home of George Eastman, founder of KODAK, and has a collection of several million objects relating to photography and cinema. The photographs on display provide a fascinating insight into life in the US. Don't miss the chance to explore Eastman's historic mansion and gardens. eastman.org
Oyster Month
November is Oyster Month in Virginia – and Virginia Beach is the place to head for these delectable molluscs. The waterways here provide the ideal environment for oyster growing – and the ones here were dubbed "Lynnhaven Fancies" by none other than Queen Victoria herself. While there are countless places you can sample the oysters, the best way to experience Oyster Month is on the water. Pleasure House Oysters offers trips out on the Lynnhaven River to see them being grown and harvested, and you'll also find out how to identify a good oyster. Trips are run from September to November – and of course, you'll get to try them for yourself, too. pleasurehouseoysters.com
Tree-mendous hotel opening
October sees the opening of Populus in Denver, Colorado, which claims to be the "first carbon-positive hotel" in the US, aiming to give back more to the planet than it takes from it.
Five thousand acres of forest trees will be planted to offset the hotel's carbon footprint, and its tree focus extends to its design, which has been influenced by Colorado's native aspen. Sustainability credentials aside, it looks to be a striking addition to Downtown.
populusdenver.com
Discover the Call of
Mountains. Deserts. Canyons. Grasslands.
Step into the wilderness in one of the USA’s 63 national parks. Marvel at the dramatic red rock formations of Bryce Canyon and Arches National Park, experience life on a ranch in the American West, or spot bison, bears and wolves in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park.
Discover space, silence and spectacular views.
Main image: Grand Teton National Park
Bryce Canyon National Park
Yellowstone National Park
The American West
SAN ANTONIO Our Total Guide to
WHAT TO DO
DID YOU KNOW?
The Alamo footprint originally covered about 4.2 acres, much larger than the current site. Only a fraction of the original mission complex survives today.
The Alamo is the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the whole of Texas
5Must-see sights
The Alamo Downtown
The Alamo, located in the heart of downtown San Antonio, is the city’s iconic historic site. But, beyond those postcard photos, it holds immense significance in the annals of American history. Originally a Franciscan mission established in the 18th century, it gained lasting fame as the site of the Battle of the Alamo during the 1836 Texas Revolution. The mission-turnedfortress became a pivotal battleground where a small, courageous group of Texan defenders, including the likes of James Bowie and William B Travis, valiantly resisted Mexican forces led by General Santa Anna. Despite the defenders ultimately succumbing, the Battle of the Alamo served as a rallying cry for Texan independence, and “Remember the Alamo” became a powerful mantra.
You can explore the Alamo and its historic grounds independently or on a guided tour, where knowledgeable and passionate guides bring the building’s rich history to life as they detail the events leading up to the battle, and its lasting impact on the Lone Star State. While within the Alamo complex, be sure to check out the Phil Collins Alamo Collection – yes, that Phill Collins. The British rock legend is an avid collector of Alamo artefacts and generously donated his extensive collection to the site; it’s a remarkable array of historic items that includes weaponry, documents and personal items from the Texas Revolution era.
thealamo.org
Tower of the Americas Downtown
An iconic symbol of the city that can be seen from anywhere in Downtown. The panoramic indoor and outdoor observation deck offers visitors a breathtaking 360° view of the sprawling metropolis from 750ft above verdant Hemisfair Park. Originally constructed for the 1968 World’s Fair, it also features a revolving seafood restaurant, Chart House, as well as a sleek cocktail bar for soaking up the views.
toweroftheamericas. com
Market Square Downtown
Historic Market Square is a cherished landmark in San Antonio. Originally established by German immigrants in the 1800s, it long thrived as a centre for produce. Today, it hosts the largest Mexican market in the US and features vibrant stalls, Mariachi music and authentic Tex-Mex food. It’s a fantastic, lively spot to shop for traditional crafts, clothing and souvenirs, while soaking up the atmosphere. Check the website to find out what’s on during your stay.
marketsquaresa.com
Hemisfair Downtown
Also developed for the 1968 World’s Fair, this park has undergone extensive renovations and now combines green space with historical landmarks and modern attractions. As well as wandering through its beautiful landscaping, including the Yanaguana Garden’s interactive play areas, you can also enjoy lively events here, including the Day of the Dead parade, art installations and concerts. There are also great places to eat and drink.
hemisfair.org
The Saga Downtown
The Saga is a visual extravaganza that brings the history of San Antonio to life in a stunning light show. This 24-minute light show by artist Xavier de Richemont, projected onto the city’s historic San Fernando Cathedral, is a visual and musical spectacle that takes you through local history, from Indigenous cultures to modern milestones. Free to the public, it illuminates the cathedral Tuesday to Sunday at 9 and 9:30pm.
mainplaza.org/ san-antonio-the-saga
4
5Things to do
DID YOU KNOW?
The trendy Pearl area where Stable Hall is located was originally home to the Pearl Brewery, which operated from 1883 to 2001.
Catch a show at Stable Hall
Completed in January 2024, Stable Hall is one of the newest additions to the city’s trendy Pearl area. In the traditional San Antonio style of reusing old buildings, here the former stables of the Pearl Brewing Company have been transformed into a stunning music and events venue. Inside, the décor is understated but in keeping with the venue’s history, with subtle
nods such as old photographs of the building, exposed original brickwork and even the “xXx” branding that determined the quality of the beer sold. With a capacity of just 1,000 guests, even for big-name artists, the venue offers an intimate and personal experience.
stablehall.com
Pearl
Walk the River Walk
Downtown
Miles of paths wind alongside the leafy San Antonio River, adorned with colourful flowers in spring and summer. Head out for an early morning stroll under the cypress trees, or find a quiet, shady place to relax – look out for “Marriage Island”, site of many proposals and weddings. There’s also an open-air art gallery, pretty bridges to cross, and an abundance of places to eat and drink along the way. Many of the city’s hotels boast fabulous views over the River Walk, too.
thesanantonioriverwalk. com
Visit a ranch
Texas Hill Country
Visiting a ranch near San Antonio offers a quintessential Texan experience, immersing you in the rustic charm of Texas Hill Country. Located just a short drive from the city, on a ranch you can enjoy horseback riding, cattle roping, or simply relax and watch the sunset over the wide-open plains with a beer in hand and a fire at your toes. They’re also a great way to experience the rolling landscapes beyond the city. A great option is Rancho Cortez, outside Bandera.
ranchocortez.com
Cycle the Mission Reach
South of Downtown
This scenic eight-mile linear trail along the San Antonio River connects UNESCO World Heritage site missions that were built over 300 years ago. The well-maintained path is ideal for cyclists, who can pedal through lush landscapes and restored natural habitats, and take in the numerous water features, with informative markers providing context about the area’s rich heritage and history. Look out for red-eared slider turtles and mockingbirds.
nps.gov/saan/plan yourvisit/hikebike.htm
Explore Phil Hardberger Park
San Antonio
This 330-acre urban oasis, named after former Mayor Phil Hardberger, offers a retreat from city life. There are easy hiking and biking trails through diverse landscapes like woodlands and grasslands, as well as a dog park, playgrounds and picnic areas. An innovative land bridge connects both sides across a highway, providing safe passage for both visitors and wildlife. Nature walks are often held.
philhardbergerpark.org
The San Antonio River Walk is 15 miles long, making it one of the longest linear parks in the United States
BarHighlight
The Lonesome Rose Bar
The Lonesome Rose is a lively honky-tonk bar that captures the essence of the city’s rich musical heritage. Located on the historic St Mary’s Strip, this beloved venue is the quintessential traditional honky-tonk, offering an authentic slice of Texan nightlife. With its classic country vibes, the Lonesome Rose provides live music, a spacious dance floor, and an inviting atmosphere that draws both locals and visitors alike through its doors.
You can indulge in a range of local beers and expertly crafted cocktails while soaking in the nostalgic décor, which is complete with vintage signs, rustic wooden accents and twinkling neon lights. Known for its warm hospitality and eclectic mix of acts, from up-and-coming local talent to seasoned country musicians, the Lonesome Rose provides a memorable experience that celebrates the heart and soul of traditional Texan honky-tonk culture.
2114 N. St. Mary’s St. TX 78212 thelonesomerose.com
Photos: Kav Dadfar; reamstime
5daysFamily out
Natural Bridge Wildlife Ranch
Texas Hill Country
Situated in the picturesque Texas Hill Country, to the north of San Antonio, this expansive ranch offers a unique, safari-like adventure. Covering over 400 acres, it provides a self-guided safari tour where visitors can drive through a range of landscapes, encountering over 500 animals from around the globe in environments that mimic their natural habitats. As well as giraffes, cheetahs and zebras, look out for kangaroos, ostriches and other exotic species – all of whom can roam with relative freedom here.
In addition to the self-drive safari, there are several walk-through areas that allow for more intimate animal interactions, including a petting zoo where you can meet and feed various domesticated animals.
Educational programmes are also run here, designed to foster a deeper understanding and appreciation of wildlife and conservation efforts. This combination of adventure, education, and hands-on activities makes the ranch an exceptional destination for kids of all ages – and wildlife-loving grown-ups, too.
DID YOU KNOW?
San Antonio’s Bracken Cave is home to the largest bat colony in the world. Over 15 million Mexican free-tailed bats emerge nightly during the summer months.
Natural Bridge Caverns
Texas Hill Country
Texas’ largest and most spectacular cave system is just a short drive from the city centre. These awe-inspiring caverns offer a unique opportunity to explore a world of stunning geological formations and crystal-clear pools that were formed over thousands of years. Guided tours take you through gigantic underground chambers with extravagant formations, including the Cathedral Room and the Hall of the Mountain King.
naturalbridgecaverns.com
DoSeum North San Antonio
The DoSeum is an interactive children’s museum that fosters curiosity and creativity. Promoting hands-on learning in science, technology, engineering, arts and maths, it makes use of clever interactive exhibits. The attractions, which include the Spy Academy, the Zachry Innovation Station and Little Town, educate through play and provide a stimulating environment for young and curious minds.
thedoseum.org
The Briscoe Western Art Museum Downtown
Adjacent to the iconic River Walk, this museum celebrates the history of the American West. Housed in the historic 1930s former San Antonio Public Library, it features a vast collection of Western art, artefacts and memorabilia, and the McNutt Sculpture Garden provides a beautiful outdoor space. It’s a vital stop for anyone with a curiosity about the Western frontier.
briscoemuseum.org
Tejas Rodeo
Bulverde
Head here for a thrilling taste of Texas tradition, 27 miles north of downtown San Antonio. This authentic rodeo experience blends exhilarating events like bull riding, barrel racing and team roping with live music and delicious Texas barbecue inside a traditional Western saloon. Kick off your time here with pony rides, the petting zoo and live music, before cheering on professional cowboys and cowgirls as they showcase their skills in the arena
tejasrodeo.com
5Best-kept secrets
Day of the Dead festival
La Villita and surrounds
The Día de los Muertos - the Day of the Dead – festival is a colourful celebration that honours loved ones who have passed away. The celebration blends Mexican tradition with local culture and sees the whole city taken over by a festival-like atmosphere during its two days.
Held annually in the historic La Villita district, along the San Antonio River Walk and in Hemisfair park, this festival transforms the city into a kaleidoscope of colour, music and cultural rituals. Elaborate altars adorned with marigolds, candles and personal photographs share touching stories of remembrance. The main event is the procession, which features traditional calavera (skull) face painting and vibrant costumes and is an unforgettable spectacle. Even as a spectator, you can immerse yourself in these rich traditions that honour life and death, and gain a deep appreciation for the city’s Mexican heritage.
This event not only showcases artistic expressions but also fosters community spirit, making it a cherished experience for anyone who comes to celebrate or remember their loved ones. dayofthedeadsa.com
Look out for calavera (skull) face paints during the vibrant Day of the Dead procession
San Antonio Rodeo
Frost Bank Center
The San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo showcases the state’s cowboy culture with thrilling competitions like bull riding and barrel racing. The event, held every February, features a mix of entertainment, including the “Night of the Vaqueros”, a unique Mexican rodeo experience. You can also enjoy a large livestock show, musical performances by the likes of Keith Urban, hearty Texan food and a funfair that’s billed as ‘the greatest carnival on the planet’.
sarodeo.com
Ruby City
Southtown
An art centre designed by architect Sir David Adjaye, Ruby City’s striking crimson exterior houses philanthropist Linda Pace’s impressive art collection. It’s a showcase for both local and international contemporary artworks across diverse media, and the building’s bold architecture of dramatic angles and expansive spaces provides a beautiful setting for it. Across the street is beautiful and imaginative Chris Park.
rubycity.org
Fiesta San Antonio Downtown
Held annually in April since 1891, this festival celebrates the city’s cultural heritage with a ten-day extravaganza of parades, concerts and food events. Highlights include the Battle of Flowers Parade, one of the largest in the US, featuring decorated floats, marching bands and costumes. Over a hundred other events take place during the festival, transforming the city into a riot of colour and raising money for community charities.
fiestasanantonio.org
Morgan’s Wonderland
Northeast San Antonio
Morgan’s Wonderland is the world’s first ultra-accessible theme park. Designed for individuals with special needs, it provides barrierfree access to attractions and sensory-rich activities, and much more. There are over 25 wheelchairaccessible attractions within it, including rides, playgrounds, a 4D cinema and a zip line. Also on site is Morgan’s Inspiration Island, a hugely fun and accessible splash park.
morganswonderland.org
Photos: Kav Dadfar; Al Rendon; Dror Baldinger; Morgan’s Wonderland
San Antonio’s Pearl is home to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) campus, one of only three in the entire United States.
Pearl
Located in San Antonio’s historic Pearl area is the luxurious and distinctive Hotel Emma. Housed in the beautifully renovated 19th-century Pearl Brewery building, the hotel blends industrial character with modern sophistication in its exposed brick walls, towering ceilings and details such as silos and gigantic motors.
The hotel is named after Emma Koehler who ran the brewery after her husband Otto was shot dead in 1914 by his mistress also named Emma
Rooms exude a laid-back Texan style, and there’s a rooftop pool with stunning city views and a number of different dining options that showcase the Lone Star State’s many culinary delights.
$$$$$ thehotelemma.com
Hotel Emma
Photo: Giles Design Bureau
Hotel Valencia
Downtown
This boutique hotel sits along the beautiful River Walk, offering up lovely views over the water, the Downtown skyline or the hotel’s tranquil courtyard. Rooms are stylish but retain a San Antonio feel, and some have balconies that allow you to soak up the setting. On site is Dorrego’s, known for its mouthwatering Argentine-inspired cuisine, while the hotel’s central location makes it the ideal position from which to explore the city.
$$$$$ hotelvalencia-riverwalk.com
Hyatt Regency Downtown
Fantastic views of the river and city skyline can be enjoyed from the spacious rooms and suites of this upmarket contemporary hotel. The fantastic restaurants include the stylish Q Kitchen, which serves locally inspired cuisine, and the relaxed River’s Edge Cafe and Bar which has outdoor seating for soaking up the hotel’s lovely riverside position. The rooftop pool is a real bonus, too.
$$$$$ hyatt.com/hyatt-regency
Omni La Mansión
Del Rio
Downtown
The history of this elegant hotel dates back to the 1850s when it housed a school by the Ursuline Sisters, later becoming St. Mary’s Academy. Transformed into a hotel in 1968, it blends Spanish colonial architecture with modern amenities. The flower-festooned Spanishstyle courtyard with its outdoor pool is particularly appealing, and there’s also an excellent spa on site.
Dating back to 1914, this historic boutique hotel near the River Walk was originally built by local grocer Edward Franz Melcher. Known for its Cuban-inspired ambience, it offers beautifully restored rooms and suites with vintage decor, with views of the river or courtyard. Enjoy craft cocktails in the cosy Havana Bar and Latin flavours at Ocho set in an elegant conservatory.
$$$ bunkhousehotels.com/ hotel-havana
FunFacts
Oldest cathedral
San Antonio is home to the oldest cathedral sanctuary in the US, the San Fernando Cathedral. Founded in 1731, it still holds regular services today.
Huge cowboy boot
The city boasts the world’s largest cowboy boot sculpture, standing 35ft tall and 33 ft long at the North Star Mall
Remembering MLK
San Antonio hosts the largest Martin Luther King Jr march in the United States, attracting over 300,000 participants each year. The march honours the legacy of Dr King and is a powerful display of unity and commitment to civil rights.
Haunted history
The Menger Hotel, opened in 1859, is reputed to be one of the most haunted hotels in America, with numerous ghost sightings reported over the years, including an appearance by Teddy Roosevelt.
Historic theatre
The Majestic Theatre, built in 1929, is a National Historic Landmark and was the first theatre in Texas to be fully air-conditioned. Its ornate Mediterranean-style architecture still wows visitors.
Record-breaking margarita
San Antonio holds the Guinness World Record for the largest margarita ever made, a 5,550-gallon creation unveiled at the city’s Margarita Pour-Off in 2010.
Spurs dynasty
San Antonio is home to the San Antonio Spurs, one of the most successful NBA teams in history, having won five NBA championships and boasting a strong and passionate fan base. Oldest church in Texas
Mission Concepción is the oldest unrestored stone church in America, with its beautiful original frescoes still visible.
San Antonio has a UNESCO-recognised City of Gastronomy title
Unmissable places to eat
City of food
From Tex-Mex to global flavours
San Antonio boasts a diverse food scene that reflects its cultural heritage and dynamic culinary innovation. The city is renowned for its authentic Tex-Mex cuisine, where traditional Mexican flavours blend with Texan flair, offering
mouth-watering dishes like enchiladas, tamales, and tacos. Beyond Tex-Mex, there is also a range of global cuisines, from relaxed Italian trattorias and Indian bistros to contemporary Asian fusion restaurants. The city’s food culture is deeply tied to its historical roots, and iconic spots like the River Walk feature a mix of both casual and fine-dining establishments.
Average prices for a main-course dish
$ - Under $10
$$ - $11 to $20
$$$ - $21 to $30
$$$$ - $31 to $40
$$$$$ - $40+
Photos: Kav Dadfar; The Esquire Tavern; Fruteria; Karissa Rangel; Visit San Antonio
Esquire Tavern
American
$$$ 155 East Commerce St, TX 78205 esquiretavern-sa.com
Boiler House
American
$$$$ 312 Pearl Parkway, Building 3, TX 78215 boilerhousesa.com
San Antonio Botanical Garden, 555 Funston Place jardinsatx.coms
Best Quality Daughter
Asian
$$$ 602 Avenue A, TX 78215 bestqualitydaughter.com
Mi Tierra
Mexican
$$
218 Produce Row, TX 78207 lafamiliacortez.com/ mi-tierra
Box Street
American
$$
623 Hemisfair Blvd., Suite 108, TX 78205 boxstallday.com
Foodfavourites
Pinkerton’s Barbecue
Barbecue
This family-owned place prides itself on slowsmoked meats prepared with traditional methods and quality ingredients. From tender brisket and flavourful sausages to their famous ribs and mouthwatering sides like macaroni cheese, you’ll need to arrive hungry.
£££ 107 W. Houston Street pinkertonsbarbecue.coms
La Panaderia
Bakery
Famous for fresh artisanal breads and pastries, La Panadería in Downtown often has morning queues. From classic conchas (a sweet Mexican bread) and croissants to inventive dishes like avocado toast on house-made pan de agua, its delicious offerings make it a favourite for locals and tourists.
• Sky Priority check-in, security and expedited baggage handling
PLUS MEANS MORE
• More legroom and recline2, seat at the front of Main Cabin
• Dedicated overhead storage for carry-on items
• Complimentary headset and amenity kit with eyeshade, ear plugs, toothpaste and toothbrush2
• Freshly prepared and locally inspired cuisine, snacks and complimentary alcoholic3 and soft beverages
A HIGHER STANDARD
• Greater flexibility, seat selection in advance or upgrades to a premium cabin
• Individual entertainment screen, inseat power, free mobile messaging4 and complimentary sleep kit
• Complimentary meals, snacks and alcoholic3 and non-alcoholic hot and cold beverages
DELTA PREMIUM SELECT DELTA COMFORT+
DELTA MAIN CABIN
TOURS RECOMMENDED
Travel Bag
City sights from £1,599pp*
Five nights staying in the 4-star Hotel Indigo on the Riverwalk in Downtown San Antonio on a room-only basis, including return flights from London Heathrow with Delta Air Lines.
Hill Country from £2,499pp*
Five nights staying in the 4-star La Cantera Resort and Spa in San Antonio on a room-only basis, including return flights from London Heathrow with Delta Air Lines.
Cowboy experience from £2,439pp**
Three nights (bed and breakfast) staying at Hyatt Regency on the Riverwalk followed by three nights at Mayan Dude Ranch on a full-board basis, including return flights from London Heathrow with Delta Air Lines.**
Other dates and packages available. Visit travelbag.co.uk or call 0203 393 9620.
All packages subject to availability. Book by 31st December 2024. Price based on two adults. *Selected departures in March 2025. **Selected departures in July 2025.
Johnny Hernandez Chef
There are so many things I love about San Antonio. Our downtown offers a uniquely attractive walkable scene. The city’s layered history is inspiring, especially with its carefully curated integration of local art. Finally, San Antonio’s diverse and exciting UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy food scene is exploding with talent.
GETTING THERE From the UK, you can fly to San Antonio, connecting at Denver, Houston, Austin or Atlanta with Virgin/Delta Airlines or British Airways. San Antonio is also connected to most other big US cities by regular flights.
GETTING AROUND Downtown is very walkable, meaning you rarely need to use any type of transport. To travel further afield, ride-sharing services like Uber and Lyft are readily available and very cheap. Traditional taxis can also be easily hailed. Additionally, the city provides numerous bike-sharing stations and scooter rentals for quick and eco-friendly trips.
Dates for the diary
San Antonio hosts a variety of events and festivals throughout the year. Here are some key dates:
San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo
February
One of the largest and most prestigious events of its kind, featuring rodeo competitions, livestock shows, concerts and family-friendly activities.
Fiesta San Antonio April
A city-wide celebration spanning ten days, commemorating the battles of the Alamo and San Jacinto with parades, festivals and cultural events.
Pride River Parade
June
A celebration on the San Antonio River, featuring colourful floats, music, and performances, uniting the city and the LGBTQ+ community.
CineFestival
July
The longest-running Latino film festival in the United States, showcasing independent films and documentaries.
Fourth of July Celebration
4 July
A city-wide event with fireworks, parades, concerts, and patriotic activities.
BEST TIME TO GO The best time to visit is from March to May, and from September to November. These seasons offer pleasant weather with mild temperatures, ideal for exploring the city’s outdoor attractions. Spring is particularly vibrant with the city’s famous Fiesta San Antonio, while autumn brings a variety of festivals and a comfortable climate perfect for enjoying the scenic beauty and events that San Antonio has to offer.
FURTHER INFORMATION visitsanantonio.com
Jazz’SALive
September
A free jazz festival held in Travis Park, featuring local and national jazz artists, food vendors, and arts and crafts.
Dia de los Muertos
October/November
San Antonio’s vibrant Day of the Dead celebration includes altars, parades, live music and cultural performances, typically centred around 1–2 November.
SAN ANTONIO
EL PASO
Subterranean
Subterranean Spectacle
Words:RashmiNarayan.Photos:KavDadfar
Venture away from the Lone Star State’s big-city sights to find a vast natural attraction, hidden underground.
“It’ll be worth it,” my sister Reetu said as we stared at the snaking line of traffic in front of us. “You do not want to miss the caverns, trust me. You won’t have seen anything like this.”
Despite the seemingly endless number of cars ahead of us on Interstate 35, I was inclined to believe her – an Austin resident for the last two decades, Reetu has repeatedly told me about the Natural Bridge Caverns, 28 miles northeast of San Antonio. The largest caves in Texas, my
glimpses of them before now had only been from the photos that hung on my sister’s living room wall.
The caverns were discovered in March 1960 by Orion Knox Jr, Al Brandt, Preston Knodell and Joe Cantu – four students from St Mary’s University in San Antonio. Having previously explored the area, it was on their fourth trip that they obtained permission from the landowners to enter the small passages they had found here, to look for unexplored sections.
Orion discovered a low, rubble-filled crawlspace and felt a cool draft of air – he and his friends cleared the debris and found a passage that led to a further 60ft long and 22-inch wide crawlspace that directed them onto a further two miles of caverns. Plans to excavate beyond soon started and The Natural Bridge Caverns, as they came to be known, officially opened to the public in July 1964.
Today, two separate caverns can be explored: the northern cavern, which has been operational since 1964, and the southern, which was discovered in 1967 and has been the site of several further
The dramatic, naturally formed rock bridge dates back, staggeringly, to the Cretaceous Age
DON’T MISS Goliath
One of the largest formations in the caverns, Goliath is an impressive stalagmite that stands out due to its sheer size and intricate structure.
The Hall of the Mountain King
investigations, and was fully opened to the public in 2023. While we queued to buy our tickets to visit both, under the sweltering midday sun, I wiped the sweat from my forehead. “Don’t worry, it’s ten degrees cooler inside,” the woman behind the ticket office said, much to my relief.
By the entrance was the dramatic, naturally formed rock bridge from which the caverns take their name and which, staggeringly, dates back to the Cretaceous Age.
From here, a stairway descended into a dark passageway, the bright blue Texan
sky disappearing above us. It was, as promised, cooler inside, but the air was moist and humidity was high. The water tricking in from an aquifer, combined with the lighting, made the calcite formations on the cave walls shimmer.
At first glance, it felt as though I was travelling through space. A plethora of crystalline soda straws (hollow mini stalactites) looked like stars against the unlit parts of the inky black ceiling of the cave. From here, we ducked our heads to walk through a labyrinth of narrow, rocky corridors en route to a chamber known as the Castle of the White Giants.
My sister was right: I had never seen anything like this before. Rippled, delicate, cascading sheets of rock –known as flowstones – bore colourful stripes of chalk white, alabaster and terracotta, while towering stalactites and stalagmites were painted in hues of taupe, caramel and ivory. An enormous chandelier formation resembled a pipe organ.
A set of stairs steered us to a platform with panoramic views of mammoth stalactites, the largest of which is known as The Watchtower. A showstopper of a column, it stands at over 50ft in height; around it are further majestic formations and colossal chandeliers. I looked around with childlike wonder, feeling as though I had been whisked away to a totally different planet.
I climbed more stairs, this time past a shimmering blue-green pool known appropriately as Emerald Lake, to reach the neighbouring chamber, evocatively named the Hall of the Mountain King. The largest room in the northern cavern, it’s the size of a football field at over 100ft wide and 350ft long. It soon became apparent why it had this name: one of the main stalagmite formations resembled a king’s throne, set among curtain-like flowstones on the ceiling.
Previous spread: Purgatory Creek.
This page: The natural arch at the entrance of the cave that gives the caverns their name.
This massive chamber features stunning displays of stalactites, stalagmites and columns. The expansive space and dramatic formations make it a must-see.
King’s Throne
A unique formation that resembles a grand throne, the King’s Throne is a favourite spot for photos and adds a regal touch to the underground landscape.
Castle of the White Giants
Known for its white, crystalline formations, this area of the caverns looks almost otherworldly and showcases the beauty of mineral deposits over millennia.
Flowstone formations
These smooth, flowing formations are created by mineral-rich water deposits and are often illuminated to highlight their beautiful colours and textures.
The Watchtower
A tall column that resembles a watchtower, this formation stands as a sentinel within the caverns, showcasing the vertical growth of mineral deposits.
Diamond Cascade
This sparkling formation looks like a waterfall frozen in time, with a shimmering surface that catches the light in spectacular ways.
Stalactite and Stalagmite pairs
Throughout the caverns, you’ll see numerous pairs of stalactites (hanging from the ceiling) and stalagmites (rising from the ground), some of which have grown together to form columns.
From here, we headed into the southern cavern on the Hidden Wonders Tour. Waiting for the sound and light show in the Box Canyon, we were plunged into total darkness. The tour group grew quiet and I became aware of every breath I took and of the fact that I was deep under the earth – some 180ft below ground. Though it was only temporary, it was a good lesson in appreciating silence and stillness, and being fully present. I was hoping to hear the sounds of water or possibly the wind blowing somewhere, but it felt more like being in a movie theatre. Before long, rainbow-hued lights illuminated the chamber, revealing the full depth of the enormous space, carved out of the rocks.
We then headed up to the Ballroom, a sprawling 5,700ft 2 space that frequently hosts live music and events. My sister and I tested the acoustics here with claps and shouts of “hello”; the trailing sound waves bounced off the cave walls multiple times, leaving us with a prolonged echo and a hum.
Leaving this cavern was even more fun as it took place on a conveyor belt that transported us through corridors lined with limestone walls – the past very much meeting the future, like a fusion of The Flintstones with The Jetsons. Emerging outside into the bright Texan sun was slightly disorienting, like I’d just
been teleported from an extra-terrestrial world through a time capsule, and it took me a minute to recalibrate.
The caverns are the site of ongoing surveys, and I spoke to Travis Wuest, Vice President of the caverns, to find out more. “We are actively exploring and studying the cavern system above and below ground, working with biologists, palaeontologists, geologists and archaeologists to continue building our understanding of this unique and valuable ecosystem,” he said. “We’re grateful to be stewards of this incredible treasure and look forward to sharing it with more people in the years to come. The next phase at the caverns will be concentrated above ground. The aim is to provide visitors an opportunity to connect deeper with the land and one another.”
Driving back to San Antonio, Reetu asked me if it was worth it. I thought of the spikes, the towering columns and the enormous passageways within the caverns, still in disbelief that it had all existed in the ground below us. Outside, the road was bounded by desert wildflowers and huge SUVs surrounded us, a far cry from the subterranean landscape we’d been a part of mere minutes ago. “Absolutely,” I told her.
GETTING THERE The caverns are 28 miles from downtown San Antonio and 23 miles from the city’s international airport, which is served by British Airways, American Airlines and Virgin Atlantic, among others.
GETTING AROUND The only way to explore the caverns is via the excellent guided tours. Various options are available, but the Hidden Wonders and Discovery tours are the most popular and will take you to both parts of the cave system. Be sure to purchase a combo ticket to save money. For the more daring, try the physically demanding Adventure tour into a wild, undeveloped part of the cave.
BEST TIME TO GO The caverns are open throughout the year. Even with fluctuating weather outdoors, the temperature underground is a constant 21°C – though the high humidity makes it feel about five degrees warmer.
W HERE TO EAT The Cavern Café inside the visitors centre serves a sumptuous house-smoked brisket grilled cheese sandwich as well as wraps, salads, and burgers. Another option is Big Daddy’s Eats Sweets and Drinks, which serves pizza, brisket sandwiches, and nachos plus beer, wine, and freshly-squeezed lemonade.
W HERE TO STAY Hampton Inn & Suites Schertz is only a 15-minute drive from the caverns. Alternatively, opt for one of the many different accommodation options in Downtown San Antonio (a 30-minute drive).
FURTHER INFORMATION
The cowboy capital of the world
There’s more to cowboy life than movies would have you believe – and no better place to discover this than the lively little town of Bandera.
“Most people think of cowboys as stoic, rugged and enigmatic characters,” Larry Cortez, owner of Rancho Cortez in Bandera, told me. “In reality, they’re just farmers working on their land.”
Bandera, 50 miles northwest of San Antonio, earned its reputation as the “Cowboy Capital of the World” thanks to being gateway to the Great Western Cattle Trail, along which cattle were moved between the 1860s and 1890s by Mexican and American cowboys. Today, the small, lively town boasts classic American saloon bars and dozens of dude ranches where you can try cowboy culture for yourself, including Rancho Cortez.
On arrival, I was greeted by friendly furry resident Millie, an Australian shepherd who made sure to follow me everywhere, keeping a watchful eye. I then met Larry Cortez, a cowboy with a true Texan personality – dusty leather boots, jeans worn with a large belt buckle, red-and-black plaid cowboy shirt and, of course, a Stetson.
Larry threw me into the deep end by kicking things off with a roping lesson; despite being an ardent fan of Wonder Woman and her rope-throwing prowess, I had no idea what expertise was required to learn how to lasso.
Roping is a skill at the heart of ranch work, being used to herd cattle. The lesson involved holding one end of the rope with my left hand while gracefully steering the loop at the other end with my right hand and then swinging the rope overhead to attempt to hook it over a dummy calf in one movement. Having poor hand-eye coordination, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to learn to rope within ten minutes and get it right on my first go. “Good job,” said Larry, giving me a high five.
Next up was horseriding. I was introduced to a gentle mare named Blondie who instantly put me at ease with her calm demeanour. As a novice rider, I was relieved to find I didn’t have to manoeuvre her around and could instead simply trust Blondie
to lead the way for the entire hour. We trotted through groves of cedar trees and verdant meadows, taking in the stunning views of Hill Country State Natural Area, which surrounds Bandera –5,000 acres of rolling hills, canyons and hiking trails stretching out beyond the ranches.
The activity I had been most apprehensive of was feeding the Texas Longhorns. These mighty cattle are more than a little intimidating with their characteristic large horns measuring up to around 7ft feet, though they are in fact known for being docile. Despite this, I couldn’t help but feel sceptical as we approached them in the wagon – it was their meal time after all. I mustered the courage to join Larry in feeding them, approaching the one with the smallest horns – relatively short at just 3ft long – to feed her from a safe distance. The rest of the 20 or so longhorns soon made their way across the field for their lunch, which was pellets made with crushed corn and soybeans.
On the wagon ride back to the ranch, Larry told me stories about what it takes to be a cowboy today. As well as roping and feeding the cattle, there’s also herding, learning how to provide basic medical care to the animals and many long hours spent under the unforgiving Texan heat. I particularly liked hearing that cowboys, Larry included, often hum or sing ballads in the fields to get through their day and make the work feel less monotonous.
Being a cowboy isn’t for the faint-hearted, that’s for sure –but there’s much more to it than the silver-screen stereotypes might suggest.
GETTING THERE The nearest airport is at San Antonio, 50 miles northwest of Bandera.
GETTING AROUND Hire a car for the hour’s drive to the ranches.
BEST TIME TO GO Spring and autumn, when temperatures are more pleasant for being outdoors.
FURTHER INFORMATION ranchocortez.com; visitsanantonio.com
Right: Larry Cortez, owner of Rancho Cortez.
US CITIES The best
The US’s cities are as varied as its soaring peaks, arid deserts and tropical keys. Whether you’re a sports fan, die-hard music lover, avid stargazer or even a ghost hunter, here’s a round-up of the must-visit spots, whatever your passion.
Words: Claire Dodd
Bestfor MUSIC
MUSIC
AUSTIN, TEXAS
The undisputed live music capital of the US – nay, the world – Austin is home to more than 250 venues. Over 2,000 resident artists, playing everything from blues and country to pop and indie, ensure nightly entertainment. There's also world-class festivals like South by South West (March) and Austin City Limits (October).
KITESURFING
HOOD RIVER, OREGON
Small, but perfectly formed, Hood River sits in the shadow of Mount Hood, gateway to the Pacific Northwest’s best wineries, hiking and fishing. The steady winds ripping down the Columbia River Gorge make it perfect for kitesurfing too, with the sport’s peak season from May to September. Afterwards, head to one of the city’s many breweries.
River, Oregon, has more breweries per capita than any other city in the US.
ARCHITECTURE
BUFFALO, NE W YORK
Frank Lloyd Wright’s love of organic architecture inspired by the broad, flat landscape of America’s Midwest is uniquely American. Though he’s strongly associated with Chicago, Buffalo is home to two of his masterpieces – the Darwin Martin House, and Graycliff – alongside three structures based on his designs, including Buffalo City Hall.
Bestfor FILM HISTORY
FOOD
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
One of only two cities in the United States with UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy status, San Antonio’s distinctly Mexican culture is borne out through its food. Mi Terra, famed for its fairy lights, pinata and mariachi is an institution, La Panaderia bakery was founded by brothers from Mexico City, and trendy La Gloria puts a new spin on inland Mexican cuisine.
ART
ALPINE, TEXAS
They say the wide-open spaces of the desert are what draws the artists to this remote Texan railroad stop. While nearby avant-garde Marfa claims the Donald Judd Foundation and the infamous fake Prada store art installation. Alpine is more grassroots and quirky. The biggest town in the Big Bend, come here to explore its street murals and numerous independent galleries and studios.
FILM HISTORY
KANAB, UTAH
The dramatic rocky peaks and red rock deserts surrounding Kanab made it a major film hub in Hollywood’s early years. Known as ‘little Hollywood’, the likes of Stagecoach, The Lone Ranger El Dorado Planet of the Apes and Buffalo Bill were all made here. Follow the historical markers or pop into memorabilia treasure trove, Parry Lodge.
GHOST STORIES
SAVANNAH, GEORGIA
Founded in 1733, Savannah is known as one of the most haunted cities in the US; we’re not here to confirm or debunk this. But if its turbulent history doesn’t invoke the spirits, its spooky ambience might. Whisps of Spanish moss, heavy Georgia heat, vintage hearses and top-hatadorned figures moving around gothic graveyards after dusk – and that’s just the ghost tours themselves.
BEER
DENVER, COLORADO
Denver brews more beer than any other American city. In fact, there are more than 200 different beers produced across the tap houses, brew pubs, breweries and gastro pubs of the MileHigh City. With 70 breweries in the city itself, over 150 in the surrounding area and nearly 400 throughout Colorado state, it’s a beer-lovers dream.
Live out your Great Gatsby fantasies in Newport’s mansions
CELEB SPOTTING
ATLANTA, GEORGIA
Just be cool, okay? There are no star tour buses here. A major film and music hub, Atlanta is a veritable canvas on which blockbuster movies and chart-topping hits are made. To walk through the city doing something as mundane as grabbing a coffee is to stumble across a film set or two. Recent hits filmed here include Stranger Things and Black Panther
SAILING & GILDED-AGE GLAMOUR
NE WPORT, RHODE ISLAND
Fortunately for us, the 19th-century barons of American industry left behind most of the toys from their beloved summer playground. In Newport, the Gilded-Age mansions remain, monuments to the decadence of highsociety parties. A sailing capital, it’s also home to the largest fleet of America’s Cup 12 Metre yachts in the world. Regattas and regular championships bring the harbour to life.
It’s hard to beat learning to surf beneath the rugged volcanic peak of Diamond Head
BEACHES
ST. PETE/CLEARWATER, FLORIDA
Your feet deserve to walk on pillowsoft white sands, lapped by the warm waters. Here, there are 35 miles of beach to choose from. Clearwater Beach’s Pier 60 celebrates the sunset with street performers, or you can sail to Caladesi Island State Park, one of the few untouched islands along the Gulf Coast.
STARGAZING
FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA
Possibly the birthplace of astrotourism, Flagstaff remains a top spot to gaze upwards at the Milky Way or spot shooting stars. Home to the Lowell and the US naval observatories, it introduced the world’s first outdoor lighting ordinance policy in 1958 and became the first International Dark Sky City in 2001.
SURFING
WAIKIKI BEACH, HAWAI'I
Surfing was born in Hawai'i, and the culture lives on at Waikiki Beach where the rollers continuously break below Diamond Head’s volcanic cone. From early morning to sunset, pros, novices and those for whom surfing is simply a way of life take to the waves. Surf schools cater to those who want to give it a go.
COUNTRY MUSIC
NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE
Walk the streets where generations of country stars have sought their fortunes. Home to historic recording studios where the likes of Elvis and Dolly Parton cut their teeth, and world-famous music venues such as the Grand Ole Opry, you can spot the next hot thing at Nashville’s thriving haunts.
Celebrate Pride in the undisputed gay capital of the US
INDIGENOUS CULTURE
TULSA, OKLAHOMA
Sixty-seven Native American nations have called Oklahoma home. Thomas Gilcrease, a citizen of the Muscogee Creek Nation, founded the Gilcrease Museum in Tulsa in 1949. It’s now home to the world’s most comprehensive collection of Indigenous artefacts, art and tribal culture.
PRIDE
SAN FRANCISCO, USA
The gay capital of the US, San Fran is home to the country's first “gayborhood” and the largest Pride march. Get your flags ready: held each June, the weekend celebrations start in downtown Civic Center, spreading to more than 20 stages and the parade itself.
BOURBON… & BOWLING
LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY
But not at the same time – unless you want to. The gateway to Bourbon country, Louisville has developed a walkable whiskey district right in the city, giving visitors a taste of what lies beyond in the wider state. Vernon Lanes, a stop on the trail, is a bowling alley with over 300 drams to choose from.
COWBOY BOOTS
EL PASO, TEXAS
Known as the boot capital of the world, El Paso is home to brands such as Tony Lama and Lucchese, and speciality makers like Rocketbuster. Cruise the outlets and specialist emporiums, and ask yourself, just how sparkly is too sparkly? (That’s a trick question.)
YEAR-ROUND OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
WHITEFISH, MONTANA
Located at the edge of Glacier National Park, Whitefish receives over 300 inches of snow across its slopes in winter, while in the summertime you can sail Flathead, the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi. From spring to autumn, you can also mountain bike miles of high-altitude trails.
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING
PARK CITY, UTAH
Scientists from the University of Utah declared the Wasatch Mountains in Salt Lake City’s Cottonwood Canyons to have the greatest snow on earth. Apparently, its climatic conditions make for deep, deep powder. Head to the resorts of Park City to test it for yourself.
STREET ART
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA
What began as an anti-graffiti program in 1984 has become the US’s largest public art programme. More than 4,000 works of street art qualify Philadelphia as the “Mural Capital of the World”. And with 100 public art projects added every year, there’s always more to see.
SPORT
LA, CALIFORNIA
With 11 professional sports teams, LA claims to be the sports capital of not just the US, but the world. The city’s teams include the Dodgers, Lakers, Clippers, Kings, Rams, Chargers, Sparks, LAFC, Galaxy, Angel City FC and Rugby FC Los Angeles.
LA’s 11 professional teams play in a combined 30 championships, meaning there’s always a game on
JAZZ
NE W YORK CITY, NE W YORK
Jazz may have been born in New Orleans, but it’s made a home in New York as a veritable soundtrack to the city. Jazz clubs such as Dizzy’s, Birdland and Blue Note play on, you can explore the National Jazz Museum and Louis Armstrong House Museum, or check out one of the annual festivals.
ACCESSIBILITY
MESA, ARIZONA
As the first Autism-certified city in the US, Mesa’s resorts and attractions are trained to welcome all travellers, from certified sensory guides to Autismfriendly itineraries. Use the city’s mobile passport to find Certified Autism Centers, including hotels.
URBAN COOL
DETROIT, MICHIGAN
When this iconic, Art Deco, formerindustrial city fell on hard times in 2013, its citizens got creative. Over a decade on, the city is an ongoing flurry of urban renewal, with major tech hubs, historical conservation and a thriving culinary scene proving what’s possible.
A STORY
IOWA CITY, IOWA
North America’s only UNESCO City of Literature is home to the country’s oldest creative-writing programme, which has helped writers hone their skills for over 80 years. The week-long, free Iowa City Book Festival is held every October and includes readings and fairs.
PIZZA
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
Other cities can claim great pizza but none has a story like Chicago’s. Its deep-dish pizza originated in the 1940s after returning GIs had developed a taste while serving in Italy. Enormous amounts of cheese, super high oven temperatures and plentiful cornmeal characterise the real thing.
COCKTAILS
NE W ORLEANS, LOUISIANA
Home of the Sazerac, the Hurricane, the Pimm’s Cup and the Ramos Gin Fizz, New Orleans has long been a creative cocktail hub unlike any other. The bartenders are still slinging the classics – and some innovative new twists – at iconic bars such as the Old Absinthe House and Pat O’s.
Walt Disney World extends for over 2,700 acres – bigger than many UK cities
THEME PARKS
ORLANDO, FLORIDA
From teacups to Stormtroopers, the vast parks of this Florida city make it a must-do for thrill-seekers of all ages. With 17 major parks under the Walt Disney, Universal, Legoland, Peppa Pig and SeaWorld names, there are rides for all bravery levels.
Worried your skills aren’t up to scratch? Join an MTB skills clinic in Bentonville to get up to speed
CYCLING
BENTONVILLE, ARKANSAS
US cities tend to favour those with four wheels, but Bentonville makes a point of focusing on those with two. The mountain-biking hub has beginner- to expert-level trail systems that connect downtown to 130 miles of routes through the Ozark mountains. Best of all, it’s continuously expanding.
Photo: Drager Creative courtesy of Bentonville, Arkansas
Goin’ Down to
Memphis
Words: Lynn Houghton
Previous page: Beale Street; Left: Vintage car outside Sun Studios; Below: Memphis Listening Lab.
Opposite (clockwise from top left): Billiards room in
Music runs through the veins of this southern city, with lively Beale Street at its beating heart.
You would be forgiven for thinking that Memphis’ music fame began with Elvis’ compelling, edgy performances in the late 1950s and early 60s. But Beale Street, in the heart of the city’s downtown, was thriving with bars, billiard halls and juke joints (an establishment with a jukebox and dance floor) long before that; many places, tailored towards a Black audience, set up here in the early 1900s. By the 1930s, live music shows were taking place at Overton Park Shell, just to the north, while Club Handy, on Beale Street itself, was a fixture on the city’s music scene by the 1940s, when the likes of B. B. King and Big Mama Thornton exploded onto the scene.
Elvis’ first professional performance was at the Overton Park Shell in 1954, and his career went meteoric almost from the start. In 1957, at the tender age of 22, he decamped to Graceland, an alabaster mansion with rambling grounds just outside the city limits. Now open to the public, Graceland has become a place of
pilgrimage that is visited by thousands of his fans annually. I found walking through his home and seeing the Jungle Room where he recorded one of his albums (replete with waterfall and green shag rug), his yellow-and-white lounge, the TV room with multiple sets and the rather anonymous kitchen strangely voyeuristic.
The spirituals and deeply felt gospel songs popular throughout the Bible Belt no doubt predated both the King and wider rock ‘n’ roll. This style of music had snared me, too, from an early impressionable age – the enthusiastic and vigorous music worship at our local Pentecostal Baptist church was infectious, and still is now. I soon caught the singing bug, even joining an a cappella vocal trio. What I didn’t know was that many songs I performed had originated from rhythmic vocals chanted by slaves as they laboured in the fields. These songs made their way into churches and tent revivals (Christian worship gatherings) before they showed
up in clubs and juke joints by the 1930s, with a secular twist added.
Meanwhile, country music was pulsating across the airwaves from infant radio stations and increasing in popularity. All of these genres became the backdrop for the masses and had a far-reaching influence on singer-songwriters, including the King himself.
Elvis was one of many teenagers who cut sound tracks at Memphis’ fledgling Sun Studio under the auspices of producer Sam Phillips, who later became famous himself for working alongside Chuck Berry, Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins. The youngster was “discovered” by Phillips’ studio manager, Marion Keisker, when she overheard him singing and was taken by his soulful voice. Today, Sun Studios is a National Historic Monument with the original sign still hanging on its street side. Take a tour to see original pressings of the earliest recordings, check out black-and-white photos from their ’60s heyday and then
Photo previous page: Dreamstime. This page: Alex Shansky
Graceland; Overton Park Shell; Graceland: Sun Studios.
descend into the recording studio in the basement, set up to replicate the original. Here you’ll find the original microphone that the young Elvis used.
One of the world’s oldest continuously operating recording studios in the world is still in business in Memphis today. Outside, a historic placard describes the legacy of Royal Studios for anyone interested in Memphis music history and period architecture. Studios A and B – housed in the former Royal Theater – erupted into life by nurturing
Elvis was just 19 when he performed professionally for the first time – in Memphis
recordings at the Memphis Listening Lab. This nearly 3,000ft 2 audio library has record players with headphones set up throughout so that visitors can listen to the warm, analogue sounds of a bygone era. Not only is the lab a treasure trove of curated music, it also throws open its doors for parties to celebrate new record releases, allowing locals and music makers alike to mingle. Situated in the Crosstown Concourse, resurrected from a former Sears distribution centre, the lab was made possible through the donation of co-founder of Ardent Records’ John King’s collection of tens of thousands of records, CDs, books and memorabilia. Crosstown itself is quite the creative hub, housing the vintage Southern Grooves studio, bars such as Art Bar and Crosstown Brewing Co., and community radio station WYXR, which frequently puts on events open to the public.
instrumentalists and, in the 1950s, creating million-copy-selling hits by these musicians for Hi Records. At this time, rockabilly (another precursor to rock ’n’ roll) was all the rage but rhythm and blues was becoming increasingly important. One R&B instrumentalist was trumpeter Willie Mitchell, who became adept at developing talented artists like Al Green, Ann Peebles, and Ike and Tina Turner. Nowadays, you will still find top recording artists putting down tracks here. Christone ‘Kingfish’ Ingram, a gifted young guitarist and singer-songwriter has been wooing artists on both sides of the Atlantic.
Audiophiles and music lovers should check out the extensive backlog of
Move out to the Memphis suburbs to visit Stax Museum of American Soul Music. This “blast from the past” is a highly entertaining place to spend a few hours. Housed in a replica of the original cinema where the record label started, it celebrates Stax’s roster of soul artists from its early days in the ’50s until 1976. Some of these artists included Sam & Dave, Otis Redding, Issac Hayes (who originally worked for Stax as a songwriter), Jane Knight and the Staple Singers. Describing itself as the ‘beating heart’ of the Southern Soul scene, the record label took many of its artists out on tour; I loved the displays of pristine stage costumes worn by the likes of Tina Turner. Issac Hayes’ custom peacock-blue Cadillac Eldorado is here as well – as is the wahwah pedal used to record the theme from Shaft. Admittedly, I most enjoyed bustin’ a move on the recreated dance floor to classics from the old Soul Train TV programme playing in the background.
The artistry and soul of Memphis can be explored in its many studios, museums and venues, all virtually within walking distance of each other. Step beneath the famous neon Beale Street sign then
Above: Elvis Presley statue near Beale Street; Opposite (from the top): The site of the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr. at the Lorraine Motel; Civil Rights Museum; Stax Museum.
ease over to the Giant Elvis statue for a selfie; enjoy the great, interactive exhibits at the Memphis Rock ’n‘ Soul Museum, then head around the corner for a live performance at the original Orpheum Theatre.
In order to appreciate the city’s soul music, however, you should also understand its history of segregation, racial strife and civil rights activism. An important cultural legacy of Memphis is the Lorraine Hotel where Dr Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated on 4 April 1968; the building has been preserved in honour of the Nobel prize-winning evangelist. Attached to it is the National Civil Rights Museum, which has a gallery dedicated to the Memphis Sanitation Workers strike. After a visit here, head across the road to one of the best barbecue joints in town, Central BBQ. From here, make your way back to Beale Street and take in the live music scene at B.B. King Blues Club or Blues City Cafe –or even at the Tin Roof next to the FedEx Forum – enabling you to experience how the music scene continues to evolve today and yet stays true to its roots.
GETTING THERE Memphis airport is served by domestic flights. British Airways run direct flights from London Heathrow to Nashville International Airport (3.5 hours’ drive from Memphis) from where you can get a luxury coach transfer with Vonlane to Memphis.
GETTING AROUND Beale Street and its surroundings are quite walkable but you’ll need a car if travelling further afield; international companies like AVIS and Hertz have offices in the city.
BEST TIME TO GO The shoulder seasons – April, May, October and November – are the best times to visit Memphis. Not only is the weather milder, but you can avoid the hordes of tourists that descend in the summer months.
W HERE TO EAT Up the fire escape from B.B. King’s Blue Club is Itta Bena Restaurant; with vintage surroundings, peerless service and music seeping up from below, you can’t beat it for atmosphere. It serves southern cuisine with a Delta twist – I recommend the shecrab soup.
W HERE TO STAY ARRIVE Memphis (arrivehotels.com/memphis) is a 62-room boutique hotel on Main Street in the South Main Arts district, just a short walk from Beale Street.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Further information can be found at memphistravel.com
The heart of
Atlanta
An energetic cultural centre, this Southern city has seen radical change over the last half-century.
The cab driver was laughing. “Atlanta is Southern, but thinks it’s New York.”
I watched his eyes, creasing in the sun, in the rear-view mirror, but I couldn’t read his expression.
“And what do you think?” I asked. We were passing through Downtown; I bowed my head to locate the tops of skyscrapers. Only five minutes earlier, the streets had been lined with porches in a foam of pink azaleas.
We may have been on Peachtree Street, or maybe Peachtree Road, Lane, Avenue, Walk, Circle or Memorial Drive. There are over 70 roads in Atlanta named after the famous fruit tree. It’s almost a shame to eat Georgian peaches any way but raw, but then there are cobblers, baking in traditional Southern restaurants across Atlanta. Their steam folds into the smoke of fried chicken, warming the dining areas, all of which feel like homes.
Peaches symbolise Georgia’s eternal sunshine but, like most things here, they also belong to its racial history. Enslaved African-Americans were vital in the cultivation of the crop. Atlanta’s racial tension and activism are deeply grooved – they cannot be extracted from a city that was architecturally designed to redline its Black community in the 1930s, and which was the hometown of Martin Luther King Jr.
The National Center for Civil and Human Rights in Downtown tells the story of King’s mission across its upper wings. A basement level holds letters and mementos donated by his fraternity, Alpha Phi Alpha, and can’t be photographed by the public – a provision that adds to its spiritual atmosphere.
King was born and raised in Sweet Auburn. Each house in the neighbourhood is weathered now, its
wood lap sidings muted and yellowed, and wandering the streets feels like walking through photographs. It’s quiet here, even when King’s speeches bellow from the Martin Luther King Jr. National Historical Park. In fact, it’s especially quiet at these times. His tomb is erected outside the centre in a pool of bright navy water, alongside that of his wife, Coretta Scott’s.
“We will not be satisfied until justice rolls down like water and righteousness like a mighty stream”, read the basin’s ceramic tiles. Down the street, gospel recordings boom from Ebenezer Baptist Church, where King was baptised and later became a pastor.
“Do I think it’s New York?” the cab driver – an older African-American man named Walter – repeated, adjusting his cap at a red light. “Well, things have changed since I grew up here, and they had to. That Southern gentleness is quieter now. Every kind of culture and arts has exploded in the city.”
Atlanta is also sometimes named Black Hollywood. It’s the hip-hop capital, and home to Tyler Perry’s film empire, whose 330-acre studios sit on Fort McPherson, a deactivated military base once built by slaves and used by the Confederate government.
“But,” Walter said, “we’re Atlanta, so long as we choose to remember.”
As he drove, he told me about Atlanta’s cityscapes and how they had transformed over the past half a century. Views captured in various archival photographs are now blocked by skyscrapers and giant complexes. Atlanta is swelling into a metropolis.
Later, I walked along the BeltLine and caught sight of the skyline. The BeltLine itself – a 22-mile throughway encircling
Atlanta – created a radical change to the central city, making it far more walkable and cyclable since 2005. It’s also something of a landing point in its own right; there are bars and restaurants stringing its pathway, and I passed several parties congregating around DJ decks.
A troupe of Black street performers were dancing and flipping along the sidelines. I watched them glide over the crowd’s heads while the sun beat down. Later, I walked toward Piedmont Park, stopping often because the views, of Atlanta’s skyscrapers melting into a bright sprawl, were so dramatic.
Life feels electric and neon here, but something soulful glistens behind the buildings, just hiding out of view.
GETTING THERE Famously the world’s busiest airport, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL) is reached by daily non-stop flights from London, Manchester and Edinburgh. Downtown is close by and easily accessed via MARTA, the city’s transit rail system.
GETTING AROUND Atlanta’s a driving city, but the MARTA rail system and Atlanta Streetcar both offer routes to get around. BEST TIME TO GO The temperature’s at its most comfortable in spring and autumn.
FURTHER INFORMATION
discoveratlanta.com
Clockwise from left: Atlanta skyline; Homes in the Sweet Auburn neighbourhood; Two musicians in Piedmont Park; A female dancer performs for onlookers at a public park along the Beltline.
found Lost and
Words: James Draven
The waters around Cannery Row in Monterey, California, are a subaquatic paradise.
The cold bite of Monterey’s Pacific waters sinks straight through my wetsuit. I kick my fins gently, orienting myself so that the crumbling, derelict pump house on Cannery Row is directly behind me. As I slip beneath the surface, my neopreneclad fingers wipe mechanically across the face of my mask – but the fog is not on the lenses. The underwater world is thick with a pervasive mist that swallows both light and shadow: a viridescent haze that obscures my vision beyond a few feet. Below, the dark outline of a steel pipe, 31 inches in diameter, extends from the pump house, cutting a direct path into the depths. This is my lifeline. I descend to the encrusted metal, which will be my guide through the murk. As I follow its trajectory, the gloom closes in. At the edge of my vision, ephemeral shades flit and loom, stirring the water with their passing. These apparitions, seen but never fully realised, move with spectral grace. They’re California sea lions, I suspect, but in the dim, diffused light, they take on an eerie quality.
The kelp forest rises around me. Tall stalks stretch heavenward like the skeletal remains of a drowned woodland. As I navigate this labyrinth, the kelp sways with the ocean’s laboured breath, tangling around my diving gear and weakly grasping at my limbs, as if the implacable sea wants to claim me. Its cold embrace is easily shrugged off.
At the end of the pipe, the Metridium Fields come into view. Brilliant white, their frilled tentacles glow ghostly in the subaquatic twilight. Ethereal and otherworldly, this spot is famed in the scuba community for its giant metridium anemones: carnivorous, cylindrical invertebrates that thrust from the rocks on muscular columns, each crowned with a ring of tentacles. They swirl gently with the undertow, like spirits haunting the depths.
“Cannery Row in Monterey in California,” wrote John Steinbeck as the first line of his eponymous novella, Cannery Row, “is a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of
light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream.”
In the early 20th century, sardine factories hummed and clanked here all day, and this picturesque Californian coastal town burgeoned into a bustling hub that thrived on the ocean’s bounty. It became one of the most productive fisheries in the world due to the upwelling of cold, nutrient-rich waters along this coastline. The air was filled with the scent of brine, the streets with the cacophony of factory whistles and workers’ chatter. Monterey’s economy soared on the back of this silvery fish, and Cannery Row was the pounding, arrhythmic heart of it all.
Photos Previous Page: Olivia Cable Barber; Monterey Bay Aquarium
Even in this era, however, Steinbeck said that after the factories closed each evening and the workers sloped off back into town, Cannery Row became itself again: “quiet and magical.”
In 1945, the year Cannery Row was published, 237,000 tons of sardines were harvested from Monterey Bay, then processed and canned on this titular section of what was then named Ocean View Drive. This was the year of peak production, when there were up to two dozen commercial canneries and fish factories lining the street. Driven by the insatiable appetite of the market, sardines were caught in such staggering numbers
that returning trawlers slouched low in the water and their daily over-catch was reduced to fishmeal and oil.
In 1946, the consequences of this rapacious overfishing first began to manifest and, by 1947, sardine production had fallen 87% to 31,000 tons. As onceteeming schools of sardines became scarcer, and cannery yields plummeted; factories that had once bustled with life and death fell silent, their machinery rusting by the 1950s.
A close friend of John Steinbeck’s, Edward F Ricketts, was a wellspring of inspiration for many of the author’s literary characters, including Doc in Cannery Row
Previous spread (left to right): Kelp Forest; Monterey Bay waterfront; This spread (left to right): Kelp Forest; Fisherman’s Wharf; Scuba divers heading into Monterey Bay.
Mirroring fiction, Ed owned and operated Pacific Biological Laboratories, which supplied specimens and microscope slides of aquatic species to schools, museums and research facilities. The unassuming wood-clad building – which became a meeting place for intellectuals and creatives, including Henry Miller and Joseph Campbell – can still be visited on Cannery Row today, dwarfed by its neighbours and unnoticed by many.
As a pioneering ecologist and published marine biologist, Ed Ricketts conducted studies of sardines, tracking their population fluctuations throughout the 1940s, and contributing to annual surveys. The plummeting sardine industry was in a state of panic and officials were frantically asking experts what had happened to their abundant coastline’s fish population — where had all the sardines gone? In a 1947 report, Ricketts answered their question: “They’re all in cans.”
In 1957, Monterey changed the name of Ocean View Drive to Cannery Row because it was, and remains, a place defined in the collective consciousness by the writings of John Steinbeck. Today the street teems with wellheeled weekenders, and the former fish factories have all been transformed into art galleries, escape rooms, thrill rides,
Cannery Row remains a place defined in the collective consciousness by John Steinbeck
restaurants, boutiques, wine bars and luxury hotels – the ocean-view balconies of which today look out onto the Edward F Ricketts State Marine Conservation Area.
One of four marine protected areas bordering the Monterey Peninsula, the Edward F Ricketts SMCA is now devoid of sardine trawlers. Instead, it provides a safe haven for marine life to thrive. Ongoing scientific monitoring provides essential data for informed management decisions, while habitat restoration projects aimed at rehabilitating kelp forests, wetlands and estuaries have been essential in supporting diverse aquatic species.
It plays a crucial role in the broader conservation efforts of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary (MBNMS). Marking a turning point in the region’s ecological recovery, and spanning 276 miles of shoreline and 6,094 sq miles of ocean, the MBNMS has helped these seas recover and flourish. Since its establishment in 1992, the MBNMS has regulated fishing practices: implementing catch limits, seasonal closures and gear restrictions to prevent fish stock depletion
and minimise by-catch.
On Monterey’s seafront, Old Fisherman’s Wharf was built by the Pacific Coast Steamship Company in 1870, and then expanded, extended and primarily used for loading goods and canned sardines through the early 20th century. Up until the 1960s, it served as a wholesale fish market but, like Cannery Row, it’s business focus was reoriented towards tourism in the wake of the fishing industry’s collapse.
Lined with seafood restaurants, souvenir shops, and street performers, its from here that I join one of the many boat tours that depart daily from the wharf. Onboard a 100ft-long sightseeing ship, we power into Monterey Bay to spot pods of curious orcas, which dramatically surface to observe us in return, and spyhopping Risso’s dolphins that poke their heads above the waves to take a
Photos: Monterey Bay Aquarium; Michael Troutman; Coastal Kitchen
Above: Great Tide Pool and back deck of the Monterey Bay Aquarium; Right (clockwise from the top); Otters at Moss Landing; Coastal Kitchen; Schooners restaurant.
good look at us too. While the harbour porpoises stay close to the shore and keep their distance from the flotillas of tourist boats that ply these waters, bottlenose and Pacific white-sided dolphins surf and somersault beside us, speeding along by bow riding ship’s pressure waves. When a humpback whale breaches in front of us, tossing itself into the air and crashing down onto the surface of the ocean like a bodyslammed wrestler, pandemonium breaks out on the boat as tourists squeal in delight and fumble too late to film it on smartphones.
I surface from the kelp forests beside the Breakwater at San Carlos Beach, right at the end of Cannery Row. Buttercup sunshine blooms through a blanket of pearlescent stratocumulus clouds, offering an uncanny quality of light.
Basking seals doze on the snaggletoothed jetty, some slipping into the seas to frolic in the waters around me, popping up to peer through my mask. Sea otters dive and roll as they hunt for urchins, and float on their backs with their adorable paws tucked under furry chins.
Around 65,000 scuba divers and snorkellers are drawn to Monterey each year due to the area’s easy beach access and those kelp forests, which harbour myriad species. Point Lobos State Natural Reserve provides exceptional diving with its clear waters, abundant marine life and stunning underwater topography. Lovers Point in Pacific Grove is known for its accessible shore dives and vibrant kelp forests too, but San Carlos Beach on Cannery Row is an icon: ideal for beginners and veterans, it might be the most popular spot on the entire West Coast.
Like the tide pools around Monterey, where children trawl diminutive nets through still waters to find stranded crabs and sea snails – pincer and prey –Steinbeck’s Cannery Row was a tide pool of human life. Trapped by circumstance and placed under the microscope, he examined the lives, deaths, symbioses and parasitic bonds of the human ecosystem.
Amid the kelp forests’ tangled embrace, the anemones’ phantasmal fluorescence and the shadowy dance of wolf eels speak of a different kind of vitality. This coast thrives in its myriad forms, from sea lemons and octopuses to the visitors clad in yellow masks and ink-black neoprene — in nature, nothing exists alone.
Right: Sea lions in Monterey Bay; Opposite: Lover’s Point.
GETTING THERE There are direct flights from London to San Francisco with BA, Virgin, United, Delta and American Airlines. It’s then a 1hr 45min drive south to Monterey. From US airports, you can fly to Monterey Regional Airport, which is just a ten-minute drive from Monterey.
GETTING AROUND Hiring a car is the best option, and you’ll need one if you want to easily explore the whole county and take a road trip down iconic Highway 1 to Big Sur.
BEST TIME TO GO Monterey has a temperate climate and sees 267 sunny days each year. September and October are known by locals as the “secret season”, when the temperature is warm and pleasant, the summer crowds have diminished, and events like the Monterey Jazz Festival and Rebels & Renegades are held.
W HERE TO EAT Foray (forayrestaurant. com) offers foraging-based cuisine; Chez Noir (cheznoircarmel.com) opened recently and already boasts a Michelin star; Yafa Restaurant (yafarestaurant.com) is popular with locals for its Mediterranean dishes; while Julia’s Vegetarian Restaurant (juliasveg.com) is a lovely informal spot.
W HERE TO STAY Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa (montereyplazahotel.com).
FURTHER INFORMATION
Aquarius Dive Shop (aquariusdivers. com) can organise dive tours. The Garmin Descent Mk3 dive watch, which features GPS tracking and a full-colour map, is very useful in the kelp forest.
provides an easy way to connect with the natural world, both in Tampa and just outside it.
“That’s a crocodile crossing the road,” I muttered to myself in a bizarre attempt at an Australian accent, momentarily imagining I was Mick Dundee. This wasn’t the Daintree in Australia; it was Tampa on Florida’s west coast, where alligators –not crocodiles – are the dominant reptiles. Directly ahead, blocking my path, was a young alligator barely 3ft long. It had sauntered out of the Hillsborough River and was leisurely making its way to the shrubs on the other side of the road, exuding the carefree attitude of youth.
I had travelled just 23 miles northeast of downtown Tampa’s skyscrapers to Hillsborough River State Park, a lush natural haven known for its scenic beauty and outdoor activities and which feels as far removed from the city as if it were in a different state. Established in 1938, the park spans over 3,300 acres of diverse ecosystems, including wetlands, marshes and forests, surrounding the iconic Hillsborough River. But my goal wasn’t to tackle the rapids or canoe on the river; I had come to explore some of the park’s short walking trails.
My first stop was the Rapids Trail, an easy, 1.2-mile walk through dense forest to the banks of the Hillsborough River. As I set out, the temperature soared above 30°C, accompanied by stifling humidity reminiscent of a rainforest. Within moments, however, I was cooling off under the shade of towering oaks draped in Spanish moss, which swayed gently in the slight breeze. Just a few minutes later, I reached a wooden lookout platform overlooking the river. The water flowing gently over the rocks and the chirps of birds were the only noises to break the silence.
The Hillsborough River originates in the Green Swamp in central Florida, a vital watershed that also feeds other major rivers in the region. The Hillsborough flows southwest through Tampa before
emptying into Tampa Bay, covering approximately 60 miles from its source to its mouth. Integral to the rich ecosystem of Hillsborough River State Park, the river supports a wide array of wildlife and plant species. Alongside American alligators, the park is home to white-tailed deer, raccoons, otters and the elusive bobcat. The river and surrounding wetlands provide habitats for various turtles and fish, including largemouth bass and catfish, and birds here include osprey, barred owls and great blue herons. Despite this rich array of local wildlife, most were keeping a low profile in the thick forest on my visit, no doubt staying out of the searing heat.
A little deeper into the park, I took another path, the 1.1-mile Baynard Trail. Again, the dense canopy towards the river above offered salvation from the heat, the sounds of leaves rustling underfoot adding to the sense of tranquillity, making it easy to forget that the urban sprawl is a short drive away. One of the highlights of the Baynard Trail is the wooden suspension bridge that spans a section of the river, reminiscent of a scene from an Indiana Jones movie. As I crossed it, the bridge bounced slightly with each step, creating a gentle rhythm that harmonised with the flowing water below. I paused in the middle to take in the view of the river winding lazily through the forest, sunlight filtering through the leaves and casting beautiful patterns on the rocks below the shallow water’s surface.
Previous page: Canoeing in Hillsborough State Park.
This spread (clockwise from top left): Wooden suspension bridge on the Baynard Trail; The banks of the Hillsborough River in the state park; Waterfront in Tampa; A sculpture on the Riverwalk.
I was cooling off under the shade of towering oaks draped in Spanish moss
STOPS ALONG THE RIVERWALK
Tampa Bay History Centre
A museum offering a deep dive into the region’s rich history, including exhibits on Tampa’s Indigenous peoples, Spanish conquistadors and pirate lore.
Amalie Arena
Home to the NHL’s Tampa Bay Lightning, this venue hosts various sports events and concerts.
The Sail Pavilion
An outdoor waterfront bar; stop for a drink and to listen to some live music while you watch boats sail past.
Curtis Hixon
Waterfront Park
A vibrant community hub with green spaces, a playground, splash fountains and a dog park, hosting numerous festivals and events.
Glazer Children’s Museum
An interactive museum for children, offering educational and entertaining exhibits and activities.
Tampa Museum of Art
Showcasing modern and contemporary art, this museum is a cultural highlight, featuring a sleek, modern design and diverse exhibitions.
Straz Center for the Performing Arts
A premier venue for theatre, music and dance performances, featuring a variety of shows and cultural events throughout the year.
Water Works Park
A lively park with fountains, a splash pad and a waterfront playground, perfect for families.
Armature Works
A historic building now housing a bustling food hall, market and event space, offering diverse dining options and a lively atmosphere.
DID YOU KNOW?
Tampa’s Ybor City is famous for being the “Cigar Capital of the World” in the early 20th century. Founded by Cuban immigrants, it once produced millions of cigars annually. Today, Ybor City is recognised as a National Historic Landmark.
The suspension bridge not only offers a unique perspective of the river and surrounding wilderness but also serves as a testament to the park’s blend of natural beauty and thoughtful design.
Reflecting on my experiences at Hillsborough River State Park, I couldn’t help but draw parallels to another cherished spot in Tampa: the Tampa
Riverwalk. While the Baynard Trail offers a more secluded and natural escape, the riverwalk provides a vibrant urban counterpart; both locations bring their own peaceful atmosphere and showcase how this vital waterway connects the natural environment with thriving urban communities.
A 2.6-mile pedestrian pathway that weaves through the heart of downtown Tampa, the Tampa Riverwalk connects parks, museums and cultural venues. It’s a seamless blend of urban and natural beauty, with the city’s vibrant energy set against the serene flow of the Hillsborough River. As I walked, the late
This spread (clockwise from left): Harbour Island in Tampa; Tampa Riverwalk from on the water; The Riverwalk; Water taxi.
afternoon sun reflected off the water, creating a shimmering path next to me that seemed to guide me along.
The Riverwalk offers a unique mix of experiences: on one side, the skyline’s modern architecture rises, showcasing Tampa’s modern evolution, while on the other, the peaceful river serves as a reminder of the area’s natural and historic roots. At Curtis Hixon Waterfront Park, families were enjoying picnics and children played in splash fountains, their laughter mingling with the sounds of the city. Further on, I passed the Museum of Art, its sleek design a testament to the city’s cultural commitment – something
that is showcased along the pathway, which is lined with public art installations, each telling a story of Tampa’s history and diverse communities. A mile on, the Tampa Bay History Centre offered a glimpse into the city’s past, from its Indigenous peoples to its development as a busy port city.
As the day faded into evening, the Riverwalk transformed, with lights illuminating the path and the water, creating a magical atmosphere that beckoned me to linger a little longer.
The Hillsborough River plays a pivotal role in defining the character and spirit of both the city and the state park. Whether
enveloped by the wild, natural beauty of Hillsborough River State Park or the dynamic urban landscape of the Tampa Riverwalk, it remains a constant and vital presence. The river serves as a reminder of the natural and cultural heritage that shapes Tampa, offering residents and visitors alike a space to explore, reflect and connect with the essence of this vibrant city.
GETTING THERE Tampa International Airport offers direct flights from the UK, with services from London Heathrow provided by Virgin Atlantic and Delta Airlines, and from Gatwick by British Airways. Additionally, there are numerous domestic flights connecting Tampa to major airports across the United States. The airport is a 20-minute drive from Downtown.
GETTING AROUND In addition to walking the Riverwalk, you can make use of water taxis that stop at various points along the river. The state park is 23 miles from Downtown; you can get there by rideshare services like Uber, or hire a car. It’s useful to have a car or a bike to get around the huge park.
BEST TIME TO GO The best time to visit is during the cooler months from October to May. During this period, the weather is mild and pleasant, with lower humidity and temperatures ranging from 15-25°C. This season also coincides with the blooming of wildflowers and increased wildlife activity.
W HERE TO EAT In the state park, take a picnic – tables and grills are present at picnic areas throughout – or make use of the on-site café. In Tampa, try SuperNatural Food & Wine for breakfast, the historic Columbia Restaurant for a Cubana sandwich for lunch, and an unforgettable three-course meal aboard Craft Tampa for dinner.
W HERE TO STAY The park has a number of well-equipped campgrounds that are ideal for both tent camping and RVs, as well as more basic camping sites for a serene and secluded atmosphere, and glamping sites for a bit more luxury. In the city, Roost Tampa offers cosy self-catered apartments right in the heart of Downtown, complete with a communal rooftop pool. Alternatively, try the lavishly elegant and beautiful The Tampa EDITION hotel.
FURTHER INFORMATION The park is open from 8am till sunset, 365 days a year. Admission is $6 per vehicle (up to eight people) or $4 for single-occupant vehicles. Pedestrians and cyclists’ fees are $2. floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/ hillsborough-river-state-park visittampabay.com
Minnesota nice
“Minnesota nice” is a phrase used to describe the residents of Minnesota, but is the midwest state a nice place to visit? You betcha! Minnesota is also outdoorsy, artsy, edgy, sporty, foodie – and has just the right amount of quirky. From canoeing in one of the nation’s last great wildernesses, to dining at a one-ofa-kind award-winning restaurant, or following in the path of Minnesota music legends, there is so much to explore in the true north state.
OUTDOORSY
Tucked up against the border of Canada, Minnesota may be as far away as you can get from the ocean, but you’ll find water everywhere – and locals taking full advantage of it. Even the state’s 10,000 lakes don’t seem enough, with a sea of aquatic adventures filling their waters in the warm summer months.
On any given day you will find folks boating, kayaking, fishing, standup paddleboarding or water skiing – which, unsurprisingly considering all those lakes, was invented in Minnesota.
When winter throws its white blanket over the state, join the hardy locals on the frozen lakes for ice skating, pond hockey, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing or ice fishing.
Minnesota also has one impressively large lake. Lake Superior is the most expansive body of fresh water by area in the world, but the landlubbers will love the 300-mile Superior Hiking Trail that skirts along the rugged coastline. The trail meanders its way through white cedar forests, down to thundering waterfalls and climbs up cragged bluffs with elevated vistas of the lake. There are over 90 free backcountry campsites to stop for the night along the route, but if a hot shower beckons you can stay in one of the cabins or historic lodges right on the rocky lakefront.
Have you heard of Lake Itasca? Probably not, but this small lake has a consequential part in one of the world’s great rivers.
The mighty Mississippi begins its 2,340-mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico from Lake Itasca, then on its winding journey south slices through the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul.
There, you can jump on a paddleboat cruise at sunset, dine al fresco on its banks or bike the 51-mile Grand Rounds Scenic Byway, which takes you on an off-street urban adventure through parklands, around lakes and along the shores of the Mississippi River.
Even in the city, nature at its most dramatic is within easy reach
Even in the city, nature at its most dramatic is within easy reach. Watch the cascading water ripping over the bluff at Minnehaha Falls, then hike along the river through a forest of oak, elm, silver maple, basswood, hackberry and cottonwood trees.
Previous spread (clockwise from the left): Known as the Land of 10,000 Lakes, you are never far away from the water in Minnesota; The Minnesota State Capitol is a Twin Cities landmark; The Bean and Bear Lakes are considered a crown jewel of the Superior Hiking Trail; Minneapolis is home to a vibrant arts and culture scene; The easily accessible Gooseberry Falls; Lake Superior is the largest freshwater lake in the world.
This spread (clockwise from below): Minnesota is a four-season destination; The quirky Spoonbridge and Cherry in the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, one of the largest urban sculpture gardens in the United States; Prince’s Paisley Park is open to the public for tours; Bob Dylan was born in Duluth, Minnesota’s main port on the Great Lakes.
ARTSY
EDGY
Minnesotans have always been visionaries in music, film, art and literature. Here are just a few names that you might recognise: Prince, Bob Dylan, Eddie Cochran, the Coen brothers, Charles Schulz and F Scott Fitzgerald.
In the Twin Cities, art is always close at hand, from the many commissioned murals that adorn city buildings to a collection of progressive galleries. And even the galleries are a work of art. Designed by architect Frank Gehry, the swooping silver and twisted metal Weisman Art Museum is the sibling and predecessor of the iconic Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. Inside, the airy main galleries hold cool collections of 20th-century American art, ceramics and Korean furniture.
The city’s parks also come alive with art, and in the front yard of the contemporary Walker Art Center is one of the largest urban sculpture gardens in the country. Studded with contemporary and colourful works, the literal cherry on top is a whimsical giant cherry dangling on the edge of a 33fthigh spoon. The iconic Spoonbridge and Cherry was designed especially for the park by pop-art artists Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen.
Minnesota’s chilly winter doesn’t even deter outdoor artists from showcasing their work. Slide around the ice at the Art Shanty Project, a four-weekend experiential art installation held on a frozen Lake Harriet, where more than 150 artists create outlandish artwork and performances inspired by the pop-up ice fishing villages that dot the frozen lakes across the state.
For all his fame, genre-defying music artist Prince remained loyal to Minneapolis. He may have only been 5ft 2in, but Prince’s legacy looms large around the city, from giant murals to music venues and the king of them all, Paisley Park. You can tour Prince’s wildly eccentric and predominantly purple mansion, which includes a full Hollywood-style sound stage, four recording studios, a nightclub and a room filled with 300 pairs of his extravagant shoe collection. This year marks the 40th anniversary of the release of the movie Purple Rain, and you can relive it all in the new Purple Rain musical, which will have its world premiere in Minneapolis in spring 2025. You can also sleep like a Prince: the house used for his abode in the movie is now available on Airbnb. The bedroom is an exact replica of the one seen in the film, with moody purple lighting, Prince sheet music and a mural of eyes gazing over the bed.
Other nods to former illustrious residents include the Duluth Dylan Fest in the bard’s birthplace, a scavenger hunt for statues of Charles Schultz’s Peanuts characters in his hometown of St. Paul and a walking tour of the childhood haunts of F Scott Fitzgerald, also in St. Paul.
SPORTY
Minnesota has seven major professional sports teams –baseball, basketball, American football, ice hockey and soccer – and if you time your trip right, you could attend three different sports in one week. The champion of all the venues is US Bank Stadium, the home of the Minnesota Vikings football team. This architectural marvel is one of the most unique stadiums in the world, and attending a game here is an electrifying experience – from the razzle-dazzle of the pre-game entertainment to the deafening jeers from the purple-painted fans when the opposition team has the ball. And, if you can’t catch a game, be sure to take the guided tour, where you can go into the changing rooms and score a touchdown out on the field.
All the major sports stadiums are easily accessible from the downtowns of Minneapolis and St, Paul, so it’s easy to catch a game any time. In the summer you can take part in America’s “national pastime” and soak up the sunshine during a Twins baseball game at Target Field or join in the chants standing in the “Wonderwall” at a Minnesota United soccer match.
Want some exercise? How about walking around the biggest mall in America, the Mall of AmericaTM? You’ll need to walk more than three miles to see all 520 stores. It might be worth it, though – there’s no sales tax on clothing and retailers from around the world have outlets there. And when you want a break from shopping, there’s a full-scale indoor amusement park right in the middle of the mall.
This page from the top: Game day at the striking US Bank Stadium in Minneapolis; The Mall of America is the largest shopping and entertainment complex in the United States.
Right (from the top): Giant wooden trolls await visitors at Detroit Lakes; The Minnesota State Fair is known for offering many different varieties of food, often on a stick; Ten-foot statue of Paul Bunyan who, according to legend, created Minnesota’s 10,000 lakes with his blue ox, Babe.
FOODIE
The Twin Cities has a foodie scene that rivals bigger and brasher cities, from the award-winning modern Indigenous restaurant Owamni, which showcases Native foods and culture, to the diverse cuisine from the local Hmong, Somali and South American communities. You can sample the world in the city’s burgeoning food halls, including the Hmongtown Marketplace and the Midtown Global Market, but don’t miss trying some of Minnesota’s homegrown fare.
Top of the list should be a Jucy Lucy. There is debate about who created the first Jucy Lucy, but hit up either Matt’s Bar and Grill or the 5-8 Club for a burger where the cheese is inside the beef patty. A word of warning: the volcanically molten American cheese can burn the roof off your mouth.
For some more interesting fare head to the Minnesota State Fair. Founded in 1859, it’s the biggest state fair in the US by daily attendance. It’s also the world food on a stick capital. You can try deep-fried Spam curds on a stick, deep-fried Twinkie on a stick or deep-fried spaghetti and meatballs on a stick. And if it’s not on a stick, the food is wrapped in bacon. You haven’t lived until you’ve tried deep-fried turkey leg wrapped in bacon. Then wash it all down with one of 300 different types of beer, including chocolate chip cookie beer and dill pickle beer.
QUIRKY
From giant trolls hiding in the forest to a museum devoted to pork in a can, you can get your fill of quirkiness in Minnesota. In the town of Brainerd, a 26ft statue of the mythical giant lumberjack Paul Bunyan welcomes you by name when you walk up to him, while at Detroit Lakes you can go in search of giant wooden trolls hidden away in the forest. For a unique museum experience, visit the SpamTM Museum in the town of Austin, which is dedicated to all things Spam and has the world’s most comprehensive collection of spiced ham artefacts.
With all those lakes, the locals have come up with some novel ways to get on them. I know, let’s put a sauna in the middle of a lake. The Sisu + Löyly floating sauna in Duluth and Grand Marais is the first of its kind open to the public in the country.
Whether it’s outdoors or indoors or summer or winter, you’ll find happy locals out and about enjoying their state. In fact, the London-based Institute for Quality of Life recently released its 2024 Happy City Index, and Minneapolis came on top as the happiest city in the United States – and was the only city in the country to make the list. No wonder everyone is so nice.
GETTING THERE Minneapolis – St. Paul (MSP) International Airport is served by non-stop daily flights from Heathrow. The Light Rail Transit (LRT) connects the airport to downtown Minneapolis.
BEST TIME TO GO If you’re aiming for warm weather and plenty of outdoor activities, late spring to early autumn (May to September) is best.
W HERE TO STAY In the city, The Hewing Hotel (hewinghotel.com) in the historic Warehouse District boasts a rooftop sauna, as well as a rustic Nordic-inspired restaurant. Or do as Minnesotans do and book a lakeside cabin in the summer.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Go to exploreminnesota.com/en-GB for details.
Bon Voyage offer a six-night “Land of Lakes” tour of Minnesota, visiting Minneapolis and St. Paul, Duluth, Bemidji and St. Cloud, including car hire, hotel accommodation and return flights from the UK from just £1,995 per person. Visit bon-voyage.co.uk or call 0800 316 3012 to find out more.
Solitude among
splendour
Words & Photos: Kav Dadfar
There’s more to Mariposa County than Yosemite Valley; venture beyond it for quiet trails and equally astounding landscapes that’ll help you connect with nature.
My palms were starting to sweat. In front of me was the huge, vertigo-inducing 7,218ft chasm of Yosemite Valley; on the other side, the iconic curved crescent of Half Dome.
I had taken my seat on a rock a few yards from the edge – as close as I dared to get – waiting for sunset. Every time I looked down, my hands felt clammier. So I kept my gaze firmly on Half Dome. This striking granite rock formation in Yosemite National Park is renowned for its distinctive, sheer face and rounded crest, more than living up to its name. It didn’t matter one bit that I was sharing this evening with 43 other people; I had a front-row seat for one of nature’s great spectacles. As I looked across the gaping valley before me, I felt as though I was here by myself, as if the view and evening were mine alone.
As the minutes ticked by and the sun descended behind me, the beautiful golden light that had been bathing the vertical face of Half Dome slowly turned purple until the top of the dome finally relinquished the last rays of light that it was clinging onto. It was the perfect finale for my first day in Yosemite National Park. Despite spanning some 1,463 sq miles – an area slightly larger than that of the entire country of Luxembourg – almost all visitors to the county stick to Yosemite Valley in the national park, which accounts for less than 1% of its total area. Sure, here you’ll find some of
Yosemite’s most iconic sights, like Glacier Point (where I watched the sunset), but beyond it are many other staggering natural landscapes that remain relatively unexplored. I too have been guilty of this in the past, ticking off famous sights like a supermarket shopping list, but on this occasion I was determined to venture beyond the park to seek out the region’s less obvious sights.
First, though, I couldn’t leave without a visit to the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. Home to over 500 mature giant sequoias, this grove in the southern part of the park played a pivotal role in the conception of national parks in the US. During the Civil War of 1864, President Lincoln signed legislation safeguarding Mariposa Grove and Yosemite Valley for “public use, resort, and recreation”, marking the first time the federal government had designated scenic areas for preservation and eventually leading to Mariposa Grove being incorporated into Yosemite National Park in 1906, ensuring its ongoing protection.
In the grove, colossal sequoias reached skyward like skyscrapers, dwarfing everything around them – fully grown pine trees appeared like toothpicks against them. The most famous of the trees is Grizzly Giant, towering at almost 210ft and over 2,000 years old. Its bark, deeply furrowed and a rich rust colour, bore scorch marks from a lightning fire thought to have happened 200 years ago.
Further on, I came across Fallen Monarch, lying sprawled across the ground and a testament to the inevitable
Local Tips
David Bailey, Sierra Cider sierracider.com
My favourite spot for food and live music on Friday nights is the Grove House in Mariposa. Downtown Mariposa is becoming increasingly charming, with unique stores like Okie Dokie for ceramics and home decor, and the newly opened Californian charcuterie shop.
As a theme park enthusiast, I love visiting the Sugar Pine Railroad in Oakhurst, which offers rides on an old steam engine and the unique Jenny car – a Model T truck with train wheels. For visitors, especially families, the Sugar Pine Railroad is a must-see.
During Halloween, be sure to visit our farm as it transforms into a Halloween extravaganza, featuring a haunted orchard and a pumpkin patch, and providing a spooky and fun experience for all.
Previous spread: Half Dome at sunset from Glacier Point. Left: Grizzly Giant.
passage of time that eventually affects even these giants.
Afterwards, I drove out of the park’s western entrance, hugging the meandering course of the Merced River to reach the Hite Cove Trail, famous for the wildflowers that colour the sides of the path. Unlike the trails within the national park itself, you are unlikely to see many other people on this path – a fourteen-mile round trip to the abandoned mining settlement of Hite Cove – for much of the year.
The hike began with a lung-busting climb on a paved track before levelling out onto a gentle dirt track that wound through the trees. As I walked beneath towering oaks and fragrant pine trees, sunlight filtered through the canopy above, casting dappled shadows on the path ahead. The humidity of the late afternoon air carried a hint of dry
TOP TIP
Yosemite National Park can get very busy during peak and shoulder seasons. To enjoy the park with fewer crowds during these periods, visit at sunrise when you will be able to experience it before the morning rush. Alternatively, arrive after 4pm when most day visitors will have already left.
Fallen Monarch
is a testament to the inevitable passage of time that eventually affects even these giants
earthiness, suggesting the beginnings of a new season as spring shifted to summer.
As I walked, the sound of the Merced River was a constant companion, its melodious rush echoing through the narrow canyon. I had missed the peak of the flowering season, but there was still a huge diversity of flora flanking the trail: poppies dotted the hillsides with orange and red; lupines stood tall in shades of purple and blue; and delicate baby blue
eyes peeked out from among the rocks. The trail led me deeper into the canyon, where steep cliffs framed the river below, their sheer faces a testament to the forces that had shaped this rugged landscape over millennia.
It didn’t take long for the heat, humidity and elevation to bring my lack of fitness into stark focus, my legs becoming noticeably heavier with each step. After around 1½ miles, the narrow track began to dip down towards the river and the air
Clockwise from top left: The roots of Fallen Monarch; Tunnel Tree; Cooling a water bottle in the river during the Hite Cove Trail; The small seeds that grow to giant sequoias.
Opposite: Merced River on the Hite Cove trail.
5 THINGS TO DO IN MARIPOSA COUNTY
Discover
Mariposa Town
Explore this charming historic town, known for its Gold Rush heritage and quaint shops.
California
State Mining and Mineral Museum
At this Mariposa museum you can learn about the state’s rich mining history, and see displays of minerals, gems and historic artefacts.
Wine and Cider Tasting in Mariposa County
Sample local wine and cider in the beautiful countryside settings of the local wineries, vineyards and cider makers, such as Butterfly Creek Winery, Yosemite Cellars and Sierra Cider.
Mariposa County History Centre
Located in downtown Mariposa, this awardwinning museum looks like a general store but is filled with historic items and displays that offer insight into the region’s history.
Grove House Bar
Known for its lively atmosphere and live music shows, this Mariposa bar is a great place to relax with a local drink and soak up the vibrant community spirit.
cooled noticeably. I followed a small path off the main trail, which took me down to a small beach of sand and rocks. I quickly removed my walking boots and – without even taking off my backpack – stepped into an ankle-deep pool that had formed between the rocks, splashing myself with the cold river water.
Just a few seconds was all my feet could take in the icy water, but it was enough to cool me down from combustible to content. The gentle murmur of the water and rustling of the leaves was a soothing backdrop to my thoughts, reminding me of how different this experience was from my previous night at Glacier Point where I had been far from alone.
Even among the crowds and on the well-trodden paths of the park, Yosemite’s magnificence has a way of making anyone feel small but connected – connected to the enduring beauty of the ancient sequoias, the ebb and flow of the river, and the rhythms of nature that has stood for millions of years.
But here, beyond the park, this was even more the case; alone, I was able to fully immerse myself in the raw beauty and solitude of the wilderness. The absence of other hikers made each step feel like a discovery, and the solitude allowed the landscape to reveal its secrets even more intimately. This is the true allure of venturing beyond anywhere famous – to experience the untamed and less-traversed paths where nature’s voice can be heard more clearly, and where the sense of connection is more profound and personal.
TOP TIP
Yosemite NP has introduced a new booking system for weekend visits to manage the influx of travellers and preserve the park’s natural beauty; advance reservations are required for Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays during peak seasons. The reservation process can be completed online through the officialYosemite National Park website (nps.gov/yose), where you can select your preferred dates and pay the necessary fees. Note that weekend slots fill up quickly, so book as far in advance as possible.
5 HIKES OUTSIDE YOSEMITE NP
Stockton Creek Preserve Trail
• Difficulty: Easy
• Located near Mariposa, this peaceful, familyfriendly 3.2 mile trail showcases diverse flora and fauna such as deer and squirrels, and bird species like the California quail, red-tailed hawks and great horned owls.
Bagby Recreation Trail
• Difficulty: Easy
• Following the curve of the Merced River, this there-and-back trail is just under three miles and offers opportunities for cooling off en route. It’s a great choice if you want to do some camping, too.
Lewis Creek Trail to Corlieu Falls
• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
• A family-friendly halfmile trail near the town of Oakhurst, leading to a picturesque waterfall cascading into a serene pool. Mostly flat, it’s a pleasant hike through oak woodlands.
Right: Cooling off by the river on the Hite Cove Trail.
Fresno Dome Trail
• Difficulty: Moderate
• A 1.6-mile round-trip hike to granite Fresno Dome, providing stunning views of the Sierra Nevada. The trailhead is 2.8 miles from Fresno Dome Campground, crossing a meadow before gaining height on rockier terrain.
William’s Peak
• Difficulty: Moderate
• This route is just over a mile in length, taking you up to 3,091ft William’s Peak for spectacular views. The uphill path is best undertaken from January to April when temperatures are cooler. A 4WD is recommended to reach the trailhead.
GETTING THERE The nearest major airports are Fresno Yosemite International, San Francisco International and Oakland International, with Fresno being the closest. Car rental is available from all of these airports; make sure you check for any seasonal road closures or tire-chain requirements during winter months.
GETTING AROUND The park operates a free shuttle service in Yosemite Valley that runs year-round, providing convenient stops at major attractions like Yosemite Village, Yosemite Falls and the Valley Visitor Center. During the summer, additional shuttle services extend to popular destinations like Mariposa Grove and Tuolumne Meadows. To explore the surrounding areas outside the park or for more flexibility, you will need your own vehicle, but be warned that parking can be limited during peak seasons. Cycling is another excellent way to explore, with several bike rentals available and miles of designated cycle paths.
BEST TIME TO GO Spring (April to June) is ideal for witnessing the park’s stunning waterfalls at their peak flow, with blooming wildflowers adding vibrant colours to the region. Summer (July to September) offers the warmest weather and full access to all areas of the park and beyond, but also brings the largest crowds. Autumn (October to November) provides a quieter experience with cooler temperatures and beautiful foliage, while winter (December to March) is perfect for those who enjoy snow activities, such as snowshoeing and skiing, particularly in the Badger Pass Ski Area.
W HERE TO EAT From fine dining at Ahwahnee Hotel to more casual options like Yosemite Valley Lodge’s Base Camp Eatery or the food court at Curry Village, there are numerous dining options to suit various tastes and budgets in Yosemite Valley.
Alternatively, the nearby town of Mariposa offers a multitude of dining options. 1805 Restaurant and Brewery is a popular choice for its American cuisine. There are also dining options like Charles Street Dinner House for a cosy, rustic meal and Castillo’s Mexican Restaurant for authentic Mexican dishes.
W HERE TO STAY IN THE PARK
Ahwahnee Hotel A historic hotel known for its luxurious rooms and stunning architecture.
Yosemite Valley Lodge Conveniently located near Yosemite Falls, offering comfortable rooms and easy access to Yosemite Valley’s main attractions.
Curry Village Offers a range of accommodations, from canvas tents to cabins, ideal for those looking for a unique experience.
Housekeeping Camp For a more rustic experience, this camp offers units with three concrete walls, a canvas roof, a double bed and a bunk bed.
NEAR THE PARK
Tenaya Lodge Located just outside the park’s south entrance, this upmarket lodge has a variety of rooms, suites and cabins. It offers a spa, multiple dining options and numerous outdoor activities.
Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort Situated in Midpines, about 25 miles from the park’s entrance, this resort offers a range of options including hostel dorms, private rooms and cabins. The resort features a health spa, a café serving organic meals and various recreational activities.
FURTHER INFORMATION yosemite.com nps.gov/yose
Photos: Dreamstime; Tony McDaniel
America’s first settlement
Situated in the Florida panhandle, Pensacola has a rich – if tumultuous – history that will lure you off its lovely beaches.
I’m standing on an empty beach. The sugar-white sand tumbles down to the glistening emerald-green waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Behind me are rippling sand dunes and there is not a building in sight. This is the Gulf Islands National Seashore, and just up the beach is the entrance to the protected harbour of Pensacola Bay. This same empty beach is what Spanish Conquistador Tristan de Luna would have sailed past in August of 1559 as he led his armada of 11 ships through the narrow headlands to establish the first European settlement in North America.
The colony, however, was doomed. Less than a month after setting anchor, a hurricane tore through the settlement and eight of the ships ended up at the bottom of the harbour. This is where de Luna made a crucial mistake — all their food and supplies were on those ships.
“It would have been hell,” Brenda, a volunteer tour guide at the Historic Pensacola Village told me. “As well as the hurricane, there was also diseases, famine and attacks from Native Americans.” The colony only lasted three years – and the Spaniards didn’t return for another 173 years.
The Historic Pensacola Village is a collection of 28 historic buildings dating back to 1810, and is one of the 20 stops on America’s 1st Settlement Trail, a three-mile marked trail through downtown Pensacola and the Pensacola Historic District.
My first port of call on the trail is the Pensacola Museum of History, which does a very good job of unravelling the city’s deep, rich and somewhat complicated history. In the foyer are five flags mounted on the wall. Pensacola is known as the City of Five Flags because, after the colony was abandoned, the city was tossed back and forth between not one but five different countries.
At the Historic Pensacola Village, Brenda tried to explain it to me. “You ready?” she said, taking a deep breath. “Pensacola was Spanish-then-nobodythen-Spanish-then-French-then-Spanishthen-French-then-Spanish-then-Britishthen-Spanish-then-American-thenConfederate-then… finally, American.”
The influence of all five nations is evident in the city’s architecture, culture and food. In one of the oldest buildings in the historical village, there are daily cooking demonstrations, where dishes are created using 18thcentury cookbooks and vegetables grown in their own garden, including onions, cucumbers, tomatoes and sweet potatoes. “I make things like bubble and squeak for British,” says Anne the cook, as she adds herbs into an iron pot over an open fire. “For our French heritage, I make a dish called maque choux, which is a French-Cajun-style corn chowder. Today, I’m making a Spanish salt-cod stew.”
The architecture of the city is just as multinational. I walk down East Intendencia Street, which is lined with fastidiously restored French-influenced Creole houses and post-colonial shotgun-frame vernacular houses. Some are homes, graced with rocking chairs on front porches, while in others, businesses
have set up shop, including the quaint Quina South House built in 1814, which is now a salon offering permanent makeup, waxing and lash extensions.
The British weren’t in Pensacola very long, but their influence is the city itself – the streets are laid out in a very orderly grid system. And of course, there’s the ubiquitous British pub selling warm pints and fish and chips.
I end my historical expedition at the pre-Civil War Fort Pickens in the Gulf Islands National Seashore. The imposing brick garrison, which is perched dramatically overlooking the headlands, remained under Union control throughout the entire Civil War. I stroll up the beach from Fort Pickens and soon have it all to myself. Only a few miles away is Pensacola’s main beach, home to beach umbrellas, boardwalks, bikinis and Bushwackers (the beach town’s very own cocktail). Pensacola is the perfect seaside getaway, but the city’s rich and vibrant history is worth taking a day or two off from sunbaking to explore.
GETTING THERE Pensacola International Airport is connected to gateway cities, including New Orleans, Orlando, Chicago and Atlanta.
GETTING AROUND Hiring a car gives you the freedom to beach hop and move easily between attractions.
BEST TIME TO GO July and August are hot and steamy, so spring and autumn are probably the best times to visit. It will still be hot, but without the crowds and oppressive humidity.
FURTHER INFORMATION visitpenascola.com historicpensacola.org
Clockwise from top left: Cooking demonstration at the Historic Pensacola Village; South Palafox Street marina, Downtown Pensacola; Pensacola Beach; Fort Pickens.
Sonoma is home to some of California’s oldest wineries, with some vines dating back to the 1800s still producing premium wines today.
Sonoma Flavours of
A road trip is the perfect way to sample the abundance of local produce in Sonoma County.
It’s the 20th anniversary of the cult classic, Sideways. Two male friends take a middle-aged sojourn into the wine country of California. What better way to celebrate than taking a road trip to Sonoma County with my own middleaged best friend, Matthew? Although, we decided our focus was going to be on the underrated culinary scene. Unlike neighbouring Napa, Sonoma truly offers a diverse range of gastronomic delights. from taco trucks to Michelin-starred dining.
Despite my protestations, Matthew had hired a convertible for our road trip, which is a clear sign of someone going through a mid-life crisis. When I enthusiastically explained to him that we must try Pacific Rim cuisine on arrival he just assumed I wanted to head to the cinema to watch the eponymous monster flick from famed director Guillermo del Toro. Whereas I was actually referring to the diverse cooking styles of countries around the Pacific Ocean. Two such places to consider are Fern Bar and
Flamingo Lazeaway Club, in Sebastopol and Santa Rosa respectively. Both offer a verdant, tropical vibe that transports you to an exotic Pacific Island even before you peruse the menu. Fern Bar executes the likes of zingy halibut crudo and braised rabbit pappardelle with equal aplomb, while at Lazeaway Club we tried Korean and Hawaiian dishes in the same meal in the form of a bibimbap bowl and kalua pork sliders.
Being film fanatics, we had to head out to The Tides Wharf in Bodega Bay, where they famously filmed Alfred Hitchcock’s classic, The Birds. Their signature clam chowder was brimming with juicy clams
and I introduced Matthew to the joys of cioppinos, a rich fish stew that is synonymous with nearby San Francisco.
Having Matthew as my chauffer allowed me to enjoy the Sonoma coastline from the passenger seat, with its abundance of rugged but serene beauty. The cooling coastal air here helps create a temperate environment where farm produce –from squash and tomatoes to beans, peaches and olives – can thrive, so it’s no surprise that restaurants here make use of this abundance.
If there was an award for the most immersive fine-dining restaurant in the world, it would surely be heading in the direction of Cyrus in Geyserville, a scenic one-hour drive into northern Sonoma. During our tasting menu, we moved through different parts of the restaurants, starting in the Bubbles Lounge with local
wines and canapes before heading to the state-of-the-art kitchen for a chef’s table experience. The focus is very much on local ingredients throughout, including tender Sonoma coast lamb and cod from neighbouring Mendocino. Matthew, typically British with his reservedness when it came to interacting with the chefs, morphed into Charlie Bucket when we entered the chocolate room, adorned with a decorative wall of flowing chocolate.
Our final stop was the world-famous Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve – home to the towering giant trees often associated with northern California. Before entering, however, we had to stop at one of the most popular taco trucks in the whole county: Guerneville Taco Truck by the Vasquez Brothers. Serving locals and tourists alike for over three decades, the food here is undoubtedly a messy affair but, even with pork juices seeping through my fingers and eating kerbside, it has to be said that we enjoyed every moment of our carnitas
tacos as much as we had the Michelin prestige of Cyrus.
And that is the secret of success for Sonoma County: its bountiful environment and melting-pot of cultures means you’ll experience joy regardless of your budget, cuisine – or middle-aged companion.
GETTING THERE Fly into Los Angeles International Airport, from where you can take a connecting flight to Charles M Schulz–Sonoma County Airport.
GETTING AROUND Hire a car or rent a driver: see sonomacounty.com/localbusiness/transportation.
BEST TIME TO GO Sonoma County enjoys a year-round temperate climate; expect maritime fog in the morning that gives way to classic Californian sunshine around noon. Come in spring for wildflowers, and in autumn for the harvest.
FURTHER INFORMATION sonomacounty.com
Clockwise from the left: Cyrus; Cocktail at Fern Bar; Fern Bar; Lazeaway Club; The Tides Wharf, Bodega.
River Deep, Mountain
Mountain High
From soaring coastal dunes to plunging gorges and lush, forested trails, Oregon’s rugged, wild landscapes are made for outdoor adventures.
My thoughts as I prepare to cycle the forests of the Pacific Northwest are conflicting. “I really hope I see a bear.” “Hmm… I probably don’t want to see a bear.” “Can bears outrun bicycles?”
A poster in the car park at the head of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail alerts hikers and bikers that black bears are about, with a mother and juvenile recently spotted wandering the forests of Douglas firs and ponderosa pines, which soar into the blue skies above.
“We are in bear territory, but there’s nothing to worry about,” smiles Charlie Crocker, owner and head tour leader at Sol Rides, which offers guided e-bike rides around Oregon’s Columbia River Gorge. “They’ll be far more interested in me than you – I have candy in my pocket.”
Hailing from Connecticut and winding his way to Hood River in 2002, Charlie is one of the many nature lovers who have come in search of the sweet life in this wonderfully wild corner of the Pacific Northwest. Just an hour’s drive east of Portland, Oregon’s most populous city, the laid-back community of Hood River draws overseas adventure-seekers and is a favourite of locals escaping the metropolis for weekend fun.
With the Columbia River flowing to the north and snow-capped stratovolcano Mount Hood rising amid the Cascade Range to the south, peaks and water yield opportunities for skiing, hiking, biking, kayaking and kiteboarding. Oregon’s
Words: Lauren Jarvis . Photo: Kav Dadfar
The Columbia River Gorge has been home to Native American people for millenia
tallest mountain, Mount Hood has six ski areas and provides the longest ski season in the US, while the breeze that blows through the river’s 80-mile-long canyon renders Hood River the “Windsurfing Capital of the World.”
Hoping the wind will be behind me, I set out with Charlie to bike the 4½-mile section of the historic trail between Hood River and Mosier, cycling through tunnels carved out of basalt rock, pedalling past meadows carpeted with cornflowers, lupines and larkspur, and sharing bird’seye views of the gorge with bald eagles.
The Columbia River Gorge has been home to Native American people for millennia, including the Confederated Tribes of the Warm Springs, and Yakama Nation, Nez Perce Tribe and the Confederated Tribes of Umatilla Indian Reservation. Like many of the world’s great rivers, post-industrial dams have
changed the course of the water – and Indigenous history – with traditional wild salmon, sturgeon and steelhead fishing grounds impacted by the pursuit of hydroelectric power.
After the US Lewis and Clark Expedition passed through the state in the autumn of 1805, other explorers and missionaries followed, along with wagons carrying settlers arriving from the east on the infamous Oregon Trail, and trappers, traders, miners and loggers, eager to harvest the state’s natural bounty.
Today, the Columbia River still transports lumber, grain, fruit and vegetables, before it flows into the Pacific Ocean near Oregon’s port city of Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies. Restored Victorian mansions rise elegantly from the city’s steep hills, and microbreweries, cafes and galleries have revitalised Astoria’s historic downtown. Paying tribute to the region’s maritime heritage, Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa sits on the site of a historic salmon factory, Union Fishermen’s Cooperative
Previous spread: View of the coast from the top of Cape Kiwanda Sand Dune.
This page (from the top): The view of Columbia River Gorge from the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail; Charlie Crocker.
Opposite: Pacific City beach, in front of Headland Coastal Lodge & Spa.
Packing Company, extending 600ft over the Columbia River, with views of the four-mile Astoria-Megler Bridge that connects Oregon with Washington State. A hike or bike along the Astoria Riverwalk reveals sea lions, lounging and barking loudly near the East End Mooring Basin, as battalions of brown pelicans dive bomb for fish and, offshore, grey whales pass through on their migrations between Baja Mexico and Alaska.
To the south, more than 360 miles of stunning coastal landscapes lead to the Northern California state line, yielding golden bays shimmering with sea spray, white-capped waves breaking over rugged outcrops, world-class surf beaches and peach-melba sunsets silhouetting soaring dunes.
I explore it on a road trip with Kieron Wilde, guide and co-founder of First Nature Tours, which specialises in creating bespoke trips throughout the Pacific Northwest, with a focus on regenerative travel. From beach cleanups to tree planting and trail restoration, First Nature partners with local nonprofits making a positive impact on ecosystems and wildlife.
“Our aim is to get people to think about ways they can engage in a much more transformative way while travelling, and build memorable connections in nature,” says Kieron, as we sit around a bonfire on the beach at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City, with a billion stars illuminating the looming sea stack offshore.
At Headlands, mindful Northwest Coastal cuisine, crafted from seasonal, local ingredients, is served alongside panoramic views of the ocean in the Meridian Restaurant & Bar. The resort’s Tidepools Spa offers yoga, Peloton, botanical treatments and hot tubs, but it’s on the beaches, the dizzyingly high Great Dune and weather-hewn sandstone headland, Cape Kiwanda, where the unique, restorative power of the Oregon Coast is felt strongest. Headlands Coastal Lodge offers a range of immersive experiences in nature, including mushroom foraging, birdwatching, painting and beachcombing for precious agate stones; the salty, fresh air and timeless tides helping minds and bodies to rest and recharge. The Sitka spruce trees, buffeted and bowed by ocean winds, whisper stories of resilience and strength, and reaching the top of the 240ft dune, my own self-belief and determination are rewarded, with soul-soaring views that stretch to infinity, disappearing into a future of freedom and adventure.
Inland, the Willamette Valley combines adventures of the outdoor, culinary and
wine-making kind. Travellers can pick their own produce at a local farm, try a tasting in one of Oregon’s best vineyards, or hike through pristine forests to bathe in cascading falls under the shade of flowering dogwood trees. At Inn The Ground, a secluded contemporary bed and breakfast, set on a regenerative farm roamed by wild deer, visitors reconnect with the land through agricultural tours and farm-to-table dining at sister restaurant, Humble Spirit, in historic McMinnville. They’re also encouraged to reconnect with themselves, hiking the lush trails of the valley and forest bathing in the woods surrounding the farm.
“The multisensory experience of spending time in nature is proven to lift your mood and reduce anxiety and stress,” explains Kieron, as we hike through the forest behind the farm at Panther Creek. “Being around trees lowers your blood pressure, and water is the white noise that helps you stay grounded in the moment.”
We leave the woods behind and hit the highway back to Portland, where the sleek, modern luxury of the Ritz Carlton awaits. Dining in the Bellpine restaurant on the twentieth floor, I drink a glass of Pinot Noir, fragrant with fresh berries, from Elk Cove in the Willamette Valley, and gaze through the windows at the surrounding peaks, as dusk falls over the city. For dessert, I’m served “Forest”: mushroom ganache with pistachio porcini ice cream and lemon, ‘growing’ from edible soil, surrounding a dark chocolate filigree tree. In Oregon, nature’s wild wonders are never far away.
GETTING THERE British Airways flies direct from London Heathrow to Portland International Airport. Portland Union Station is an Amtrak hub, with trains along the scenic Coast Starlight line to Seattle taking just under 3½ hours.
GETTING AROUND First Nature Tours (firstnaturetours.com) offer bespoke itineraries throughout Oregon and the Pacific Northwest, with a focus on sustainable, regenerative travel.
Greyhound (greyhound.com) and FlixBus (flixbus.com) run frequent bus services between Portland and other Pacific Northwest cities.
BEST TIME TO GO Oregon has year-round appeal, from balmy summer days at the beach to stunning leaf-peeping in autumn, thrilling snow sports in winter and hiking through wildflower meadows in spring.
W HERE TO EAT Celebrate local, seasonal food, harvested from the idyllic Willamette Valley, at Humble Spirit (humblespirit.love) in the historic town of McMinnville or, for a glitzy treat, try the five-course tasting menu at Bellpine on the 20th floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Portland (ritzcarlton.com).
W HERE TO STAY Luxe bed and breakfast, Inn The Ground (theground.love), is a secluded escape on a regenerative working farm in Oregon’s wine country, or stay at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa (headlandslodge.com) for stunning views of the north coast and starlit bonfires on the beach.
FURTHER INFORMATION traveloregon.com travelportland.com visittheusa.co.uk
beaches
River
Northern Oregon road trip
1 Portland
Start your road trip in the vibrant city of Portland, known for its culture, food and natural beauty.
5 Cannon Beach
2 Willamette Valley
Explore the region’s vineyards and scenic beauty. Distance: 48 miles
Explore the dramatic sea stacks and browse coastal art galleries. Distance: 65 miles 6 Astoria
Rich maritime history combines with picturesque Victorian architecture Distance: 89 miles
region Oregon’s biggest city
Embark on a memorable road trip through Oregon, beginning and ending in the city of Portland. Journey through the picturesque Willamette Valley, visit coastal towns like Lincoln City and Cannon Beach, then explore Astoria, Hood River and beyond.
3 Lincoln City
A charming coastal vibe, sandy beaches, and a fantastic arts and crafts scene. Distance: 64 miles
7 Hood River
Outdoor adventures galore, from kitesurfing to hiking along scenic trails. Distance: 151 miles
4 Pacific City
A great place to relax, with stunning ocean views, sand dunes and surfing. Distance: 22 miles
Portland
Finish your road trip back in beautiful Portland.
Total distance: 438 miles
Number of nights: 7 to 8
Photos: Dreamstime; Kav Dadfar.
Illustration: Briar Jones
SAY HELLO TO THE EDGE OF THE EARTH.
Monterey County is made up of endless paths and each one takes you to something incredible. These paths tie all of Monterey together, creating one big, epic journey. They connect you to your next destination and your next adventure – but also to the people around you. The question is: which way will you go? No matter what path you take, it’s sure to lead to inspiration.
