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i-D Spring 2017
insi-De the cinematic sixties issue there’s still time for a coke Picture the 1960s. Do you imagine London in full swing, or screaming Beatle’s fans? Usually those are the images that come to mind. But what about the movies? Back then a trip to the cinema wasn’t an uninventive first date. It was a complete spectacle. The full night was anticipated with planned outfits and snack debates. Unlike today when it’s more common to pirate a movie from a questionable website. When making some of the earliest editions of i-D magazine, Terry Jones described how he would “treat each issue like a movie, with themes that could be found in each”. This issue takes a look at some darker content. ‘On the Run’ is a shoot inspired by Bonnie & Clyde (1967) and the twisted and murderous love that they share. The second editorial studies the villian Norman Bates from Hitchcock’s ‘Psycho’ (1960). Delving into the character, included is a short review of the film and an equally unsettling playlist. Also inside is an interview with Bryan M. Ferguson- the Glasgow filmmaker whose film premiers are no strangers to fainting audience members. However, the ‘60s weren’t all horror and crime. It was also a time of rebellion and sexual revolution. Someone who admires this is Jenny Robertson. In this edition we speak to the Edinburgh based hair stylist and make-up artist working in a salon known for their beehives and cat eyes. Not located far from, is the monthly vintage fair Lou Lou’s. This event stands stark from today’s fast fashion, positioning itself far from the high street. Our team went along to ask what the hardcore vintage fans thought of the ‘60s and what films inspire them. With the help of everyone above it has became clear that it’s important to consider the past. It creates the future. We learn from their mistakes. We build on what has came before us. We have to know what’s happened in order to know where to go. So go ahead, get your copy and some popcorn. Sixties sweet or sixties salted?
JACK SHANKS, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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contributors EMMA DEVIN Since childhood, Emma has always been both a bossy boots and (often referred to as “a bad influence”) had an affinity for convincing people to buy things when shopping with her; hence why she decided to study fashion marketing. She can also keep her eyes open for more than 10 minutes without blinking. What’s a movie everyone should see? Donnie Darko (2001) @emmadevin
GRACE PIERCE Despite majorly lacking in sleep and common sense, Grace is your average fashion student who insists on ‘investing’ in clothing and accessories regularly (2, 3, maybe 7 times a week). Grace enjoys gossiping, collecting fluffy socks, photography and her favourite colour is baby pink. What’s a movie everyone should see? Beaches (1998) @_gracepierce_
JESSICA CARR Cigarettes, Lana Del Rey, black clothes and gin. Jessica is a creature of habit in regards to music and fashion. She has always been considered a dreamer who will follow in the footsteps of none other than herself. She strongly believes she was born to shop but is sadly forced to work. What’s a movie everyone should see? Girl, Interrupted (1999) @jessicacarr123
LILLIE BELL Lillie loves rock of the ages, oreo milkshakes and flamingos. Her favourite aspect of the swingin’ sixties is mini-skirts in bright colours. Her main goal in life is to tie herself up with lots of balloons and float away. What’s a movie everyone should see? Rock of Ages (2012) @lilliebell_
MEGAN HAINING Megan loves figure skating, and her favourite time of year is winter due to the big blankets and fur coats. She’s obsessed with the colour green and addicted to shopping. Megan’s favourite thing about the 60s the different styles like mods and hippies. What’s a movie everyone should see? The Breakfast Club (1985) @megan_haining
CHELSEA MACGILLIVRAY Chelsea loves watching things get created, from tags on clothing to sprinkles on cake. If it’s eye catching she will wonder why ( and was one of those self-confessed annoying kids always asking why?). She finds it refreshing to know design is all around us. What’s a movie everyone should see? Pretty In Pink (1986)
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Run.
Run.
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Run.
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“They may hate us together but they can’t stop us” CLYDE BARROW
ISSIE WEARS COAT INSERT BURBERRY, JEANS TOPSHOP, SHOES DR MARTEN, POLO NECK, HAT AND GLOVES VINTAGE.
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OSCAR WEARS COAT BURBERRY, DRESS ZARA, TROUSERS BURTON. ISSIE WEARS SKIRT TOPSHOP, TOP, JACKET, GLOVES VINTAGE.
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ISSIE WEARS SHOES DR MARTEN, HAT, DRESS, GLOVES, SCARF, VINTAGE.
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LET’S BE OUTLAWS
PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA CARR AND GRACE PIERCE STYLING JACK SHANKS MAKE UP ARTIST EMMA DEVIN HAIR STYLIST LILLIE BELL
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Jenny Robertson We first became aware of Jenny Robertson a few weeks back, after meeting her at the monthly vintage fair “Lou Lou’s” in Edinburgh. The hairstylist and make-up enthusiast continually pushes the boundaries of creativity at the beauty parlour “Lipstick Lashes & Locks”. Jenny is best known for contemporising 1960’s looks in an alternative style, with clients describing her as ‘magic’. Her dog, Frank, seems to share to infatuation.
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Lipstick, Lashes and Locks TEXT LILLIE BELL AND CHELSEA MACGILLVRAY
Firstly. What’s your favourite ‘60s look? I love the big, bouffant hair of the ‘60s. Although I really like to mix decades. We, today, are privileged as there has been so many different beauty and hair looks in the past, so we can cherry pick our favourites to create a whole new look. What really drew you to to the ‘60s originally? The ‘60s was an important time for feminism. This was reflected in the styles of the time, for example, the mini skirt. Women’s rights were introduced, meaning more of them were working and so had more disposable income. This therefore meant that woman had more money to spend on their appearance and really began to experiment with their style. If you could bring back one aspect of the ‘60s what would it be? I feel that the ‘60s is a prominent era and is still around today. I remember in the ‘90s I wore one of my mum’s old ‘60s dresses
to a school dance and felt totally vintage and not out of place. There was a huge throwback of the ‘60s in the ‘90s though, with the over use of the word ‘groovy’. Who most inspires your style? I think, hair-wise, Bridget Bardot is a huge icon. Her hair is more messy and not as polished as the usual ‘60s look. It makes the look more modern. Who’s the most inspirational designer from the ‘60s? Mary Quant is amazing. She was responsible for the mini skirt aswell as the short pixie that was hugely popular back then. Do you have any favourite movies from the ‘60s? Breakfast at Tiffany’s is a classic. I mean, she’s essentially a prostitute, yet she comes across as
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innocent and pure. The film still somewhat comes across as aesthetically pleasing. Do you listen to ‘60s music? The Beatles, obviously. The Kinks too, definitely give them a listen. Are your beauty looks modernised or are they directly taken from the 60s? I can either go true vintage or do a modern take on it, but there is always a danger that true vintage can look like a costume. I always have to make sure the customers know what they’re really asking for. ‘60s eye makeup was very heavy and all about illusion, which may not be entirely flattering today. What is the most common makeup look your customers ask for? Lots of my clients ask for winged eyeliner, which was first worn by Audrey Hepburn in 1960. Infact, we have just introduced a new makeup look named ‘lips & flicks’, inspired by Audrey in the ‘60s..
LOU LOU’s TEXT JACK SHANKS
Walk down Princes Street in Edinburgh, and
time again”. The pair are happy to chat, pose,
it’s easy to be fast-fashion’s prey. Shopping has
laugh and sell- but not in a robotic retail way.
become an easy catch. Swinging from 5p bag
Possibly the most political of attendees, ironically
to 5p bag in Tarzan style, going from Topshop
comes from the arguably most high street vintage
to River Island to New Look only stopping
retailer in Edinburgh. Speaking to Veronica from
to have a go at the watering hole- Costa.
Armstrongs, it’s easy to get an understanding
The only way to not get pounced at, is to separate
of the brands sense of responsibility: “We can
from the pride. Monthly vintage market Lou Lou’s
all learn from the ‘60s, I mean, it was a time of
stands alone in a jungle of retail. To find it, just
self-expression, freedom and breaking norms.
awkwardly follow google maps on your phone
Just, who’d have thought the way to do that
from Princes Street, a right passed Jenners then
today would be to look back to them? Everyone
a left at Joules. Continue on George Street for
dresses the same these days so there’s something
110 yards then the destination is on your left.
almost scandalous about vintage shopping. The
Held in the Assembly Room, in the main hall
same way it was scandalous to own a mini skirt
is an anti-retail goldmine. Like a feature film,
in the ‘60s. Armstrongs has been very successful
the room is soundtracked with Hey Jude by a
at positioning ourselves in the market as a place
convincing quartet. Stalls are set up with free
for creatives and those sick of fast-fashion”.
retro hair and makeup experts like a Grease
Like many movies- there’s a symbolic meaning
beauty school (without the drop outs). Each
behind Lou Lou’s. This is a rebellion against fast-
stall is a labyrinth of decades and styles.
fashion. The act of reusing vintage clothing goes
Named after an obscure ‘60s TV show, vintage
against the wild norms. It forces individuals to be
independent retailer ShadowRetro are recurring
more creative in their styling- taking away from the
cast members at Lou Lou’s. Stocking rails of
prescribed trends. The market place is on every
zesty mini dresses the owners, a couple wearing
month, so if you are sick of brainless shopping, put
matching alligator print, explain: “These sell
down the Costa and take a right passed Jenners
extremely well, I think it’s because they can make
then a left at Joules. Continue on George Street
great day wear or party dresses. People are
for 110 yards then the destination is on your left.
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“WE’RE HERE TILL 5PM”
Emma, music student
What inspires you about the ‘60s? Everything about the
music scene, mostly the Beatles. Tell us about your personal style. I mix-match
What’s a movie everyone should watch? Either Trainspotting or Resevoir Dogs.
What inspires you about the ‘60s? The politics of the
but I still love the ‘60s.
What’s a movie everyone should watch? The Duchess.
Linzi, vintage retailler
What inspires you about the ‘60s? Well, look what I’m
wearing now. I’m feeling very ‘60s. Tell us about your personal style. A lot of the things I wear look like they’re from or are from the ‘50s and ‘60s.
Terry, online retailler
time. Tell us about your personal style. Honestly, I’m more a ‘50s or ‘40s girl,
from places and times. I find lots of vintage clothes and just put them together.
Vicky, vintage blogger
LOU LOU’S
What inspires you about the ‘60s? My mum listened to
the Beatles when I was growing up. So I knew all the words and would try to sing to strangers. Tell us about your personal style. Well, I get a lot of Urban Outfitter cast
What’s a movie
everyone should watch? It’s between Million Dollar Mermaid or Singin’ in the Rain.
offs for free. What’s a movie everyone should watch? Any black and white musical.
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YOU NEVER REALLY UNDERSTAND A PERSON UNTIL YOU CONSIDER THINGS FROM HIS POINT OF VIEW, UNTIL YOU CLIMB INSIDE OF HIS SKIN AND WALK AROUND IN IT ATTICUS FINCH (1962)
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There’s two sides to every story- or so they say. In the mind of a Psycho (1960) there might be more than two.
PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA CARR AND GRACE PIERCE STYLING JACK SHANKS MAKE UP ARTIST EMMA DEVIN HAIR STYLIST LILLIE BELL
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“Why she wouldn’t even hurt a fly” i-D 20
NORMA BATES
JACK WEARS VEST RUBITEX, POLO NECK BURTON
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“We all go a little mad sometimes, haven’t you?” NORMAN BATES
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LEFT JACK WEARS BLANKET TK MAXX, TOP VINTAGE. RIGHT JACK WEARS ACCESSORIES VINTAGE.
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i-D A PSYCHO REVIEW (1960) TEXT EMMA DEVIN
Based on the novel by Robert Bloch, Alfred Hitchcock’s “Psycho” was one of the first slasher movies being released in 1960. Not just a story of a motiveless knife in the wrong hands, the murderer in this film has many layers. At risk of spoiling the ending (stop reading here) Norman Bates plays many parts and the result is murderous. A film tainted in foreshadowing, the boyish charm of his character slides from cute to creepy.
The film now taking form as a cult classic, many reference Hitchcock’s distinct style of directing. With each frame carefully planned, the movie is a boiling pot of lighting, sets and props. However, it is not all style no substance. As shown is the character studying editorial, Norman is complex and infatuating- as is the film as a whole. Just watch out for the deadly twist.
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SO WHAT DO SERIAL KILLERS DO FOR FUN? (disclaimer: not for the faint hearted) TEXT MEGAN HAINING
MUSIC TO MY EARS
1. The Murder Bernard Herman (1960)
FILMS FOR FREAKS
2. House of the Rising Sun The Animals (1964)
1. Split-
3. Run For Your Life -
M. Night Shyamalan (2017)
The Beatles (1965) 4. Psycho -
2.. The Boy -
The Sonics (1965)
William Brent Bell (2016)
5. Paint It Black . The Rolling Stones (1966)
3. Filth -
6. Polly -
John S. Baird (2013)
Nirvana (1991) 7. Split Personalities -
4. Fight Club -
Skatalities (1994)
David Fincher (1996)
8. Cleaning Out My Closet - Eminem (2002)
5. Vertigo -
9. Unwell -
Alfred Hitchcock (1958)
Matchbox 20 (2002) 10. Smother Daughter (2013)
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PHOTOGRAPHY JACK SHANKS
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AND THAT’S EXACTLY WHAT I’M TRYING TO DO”
BRYAN M. FERGUSON.
“IT LOOKS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT TO WHAT IT ACTUALLY IS. THERE’S A HIDDEN SINISTER TO IT.
BRYAN M. FERGUSON Sitting down for a pint with the upcoming filmmaker who’s won awards for his candy-coloured fetish movies about disememberment. TEXT JACK SHANKS
In a Glasgow primary class filled with aspiring footballers, a four year-old Bryan M Ferguson is already thinking about making films. By eleven, the Hichcock loving pre-teen has his first camera and is directing 90 minute features with his friends filmed entirely in his bedroom. Try and delve this deep into Ferguson’s archive though, and he admits the cassettes might get smashed.
Some time later, Bryan M Ferguson is sitting across from me in Brel, drinking a St. Mungo’s and describing how he convinces actors to get buzz-cuts and slam their arms in car doors. “They’re willing to be masochists for someone they put trust in,” and that’s exactly it- he just seems trustworthy. It’s a little daunting meeting a filmmaker who’s won awards for unnerving bodyhorrors and premieres have caused not one but two audience members to faint. But one pint in, and it couldn’t be a more normal conversation: even if the topics are a bit unconventional. The style of Bryan M Ferguson’s films is one that is now distinctly him: “The other day I got recognised by someone- which never happens. And, truth be told, it was nice, but I absolutely hated it”. A self-confessed sober introvert, Ferguson admits interviews and networking make him uncomfortable. I apologise. He explains this is why he generally takes on every role behind the camera. Self-taught except an uninspiring college course, he now has an undeniably distinct style of filming. Watching his work and it’s immediately apparent that there’s a real juxtaposition: “It’s completely different to what it actually is. There’s a hidden sinister to it and that’s exactly what I’m trying to do. That’s why I don’t think I shift from my style. It’s taken me such a long time to get to a point where people recognise my work just from an image”. The image he means is the contrast between what the audience is seeing and what they’re watching. The director uses saturated colours, unexpected but cinematic location and story lines shocking enough that his mother won’t watch them. I think anticipating my next question, Bryan says: “I always get asked where do you get your ideas? And I genuinely don’t know. For Rubber Guillotine I was standing eating jelly in my kitchen and thought the consistency was cool. So I was like, what the fuck is in gelatine? Then I found out it had animal bones in it, and was like what if it was made from human bones?”. This short features actress Louise saying fuck you to her parents- and decides to ‘donate her skeleton to gelatine’ wanting to become jelly. The film is a punchy 1 minute long- and was one of the easiest he’s ever filmed. This cannibalistic idea is presented with the colours as bright and playful as jelly itself. “I’ve got such an interest in domestic items and working them. The same with Caustic Gulp. You know, chlorine’s something you swim in then I found out people used to fucking use it to create genocide. Then there’s families swimming in it having the time of their lives”. This short is based around a chlorine cult who drink the substance for mass followings. It’s this slightly twisted view that makes his films so interesting. I ask him about the current exhibition in GoMA which shows John Samson’s Dressing For Pleasure and finishing his pint he says “He documents them, but its in like a narrative. I’d never judge anyone on their sexual preference or sexual interest. Anything really, like who they are. I just find it really interesting”. It is exactly this level of acceptance that makes his films so contemporary and strangely upbeat. Within the boundaries of a 2 minute long or a 30 minute long film the grey-haired man behind the camera tells unchartered stories, that come across in such a visually pleasing way that no judgement is passed. This is a lesson most up us can learn from Bryan M. Ferguson: “Just fucking let people do what they want”. i-D 27
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