JUANLU MARCHANI FASHION DESIGN I TECHNICAL PORTFOLIO
INSPIRATION
Simon Porte Jacquemus has described himself as “happy, excited, impatient,” and all of those qualities are present in his playful clothes and envelopepushing presentations. Charm is a quality often attributed to this largely selfeducated designer, who moved from Salon-de-Provence in southern France to Paris at age 18. There he enrolled at ESMOD, but with the sudden death of his mother months later, he left school and worked briefly for Citizen K. He launched Jacquemus at 19, developing the label while simultaneously working retail at a Comme des Garçons boutique. He was nominated for the LVMH Prize twice, picking up a special jury award of 150,000 euros and a mentorship for one year in 2015. Jacquemus’s aim is to create his own universe, and he likes to say “I don’t do clothes; I do stories.” Though these tales are about women, they are also, ultimately, about the designer, who cuts and drapes on himself, and his sun-kissed and free childhood. As he once said in an interview: “We know me for my smile and my sunshine and my love for the seaside.” So when I think about the Jacquemus woman what comes to mind are the words: free spirit, she likes natural fibers and has a very casual sense of her own femininity which she translate into looks that aren´t too feminine nor masculine in order to create a perfect balance between her yin and her yang. So that´s what I tried to make justice in this capsule collection by two ways: 1.Designing feminine silhouettes introducing typical masculine details like: oversized collars, polo necklines, and straight lined pockets. 2.By introducing feminine and delicate details in more masculine garments, for example: using a dainty belt in seamed of an oversized blazer with Japanese sleeves.
JACQUEMUS
STYLE ANALYSIS
JACQUEMUS
CAPSULLE COLLECTION
JACQUEMUS
TECHNICAL SHEET
PAPER BAG L
LONG TROUSERS
JACQUEMUS
TECHNICAL SHEET 1.2.
PAPER BAG LO
ONG TROUSERS
JACQUEMUS
TECHNICAL SHEET 1.3.
PAPER BAG LO
ONG TROUSERS
JACQUEMUS
INSPIRATION
When asked to describe the aesthetic of her first collection, in 1981, Carolina Herrera replied, “It’s my own style.” That description still holds true decades later. So what is Herrera’s personal look? Refined and international, it is perhaps best described as ladylike, although tailoring plays a large role, too. “I prefer clothes that are simple, well cut, but with one major extravagance,” she told Vogue in 1987. “Something with the sleeves, with the skirt, but nothing too fussy, too flashy.” Her signature is a crisp white shirt, often turned back at the cuffs. Herrera was famous as a beauty, socialite, and constant presence on best-dressed lists long before she became a designer. She splashed down on the design scene at the dawn of the luxury-loving ’80s with a collection of couture-like dresses with elaborate face framing sleeve enhancements. “It was the most glamorous fashion debut in years,” the wire services reported. In more recent years, Herrera’s customers are as likely to be Oscar winners as ladies who lunch. The designer’s clothes, the actress Renée Zellweger has said, “make me feel as though I’m not trying too hard and that I’m telling the truth.” While Herrera is modest about her accomplishments, the “Council of Fashion Designers of America” honored her with a lifetime achievement award in 2008. In 2017, Herrera hired American designer Wes Gordon as a consultant, and later appointed him to creative director in 2018. Gordon brought a youthful new energy to the house codes of femininity, color, and joie de vivre, and designs both Herrera’s ready-to-wear and bridal collections. Taking all of this into consideration, I wanted to translated the essence of the CH woman: classic and elegant with a touch of ingénue by creating silhouettes inspired from tropical flowers: feminine and delicate yet fresh.
CAROLINA HERRERA
STYLE ANALYSIS
CAROLINA HERRERA
CAPSULLE COLLECTION
CAROLINA HERRERA
TECHNICAL SHEET 2.1.
OVERSIZED T
TRENCH COAT
CAROLINA HERRERA
TECHNICAL SHEET 2.1.
OVERSIZED T
TRENCH COAT
CAROLINA HERRERA
TECHNICAL SHEET 2.3.
OVERSIZED T
TRENCH COAT
CAROLINA HERRERA
TECHNICAL SHEET 1.4.
PAPER BAG LO
ONG TROUSERS
JACQUEMUS
JUANLU MARCHANI FASHION DESIGN I TECHNICAL PORTFOLIO
TEL.: +34 600227399 EMAIL: jlmarchani@gmail.com INSTAGRAM: @jlmarchani