2009 – A Bonnie Year for
> Savvy Travel
Scotland
F
BY JUDI ROTHENBERG
or all those who’ve said, “Someday I want to go to Scotland,” this is the year to go. The entire country
Highland Games courtesy of Visit Scotland
Shopping in Edinburgh, Anta (above) Totty Rocks below
is celebrating the 250th birthday of beloved poet
Robert Burns with dozens of special events, including concerts, historic pageants, whiskey tastings, piping com-
The Duke of Argyll leads a toast to the Spirit of the West Festival in front of his home, Inveraray Castle
petitions and golf expositions. And with so much going on, it’s tempting to pack in as many events as possible, but make sure to leave some time to explore the other side of Scotland — offbeat sites that spotlight the country’s natural beauty. For example, we found a captivating bed and breakfast by Loch Tay where you can try your hand at salmon fishing, meander down a country lane dotted with black-faced sheep — or simply curl up with a book and a glass of scotch in front of a toasty fireplace. (See page 26 for details.) So whether you’re a Scotsman at heart, a golf enthusiast or just want to explore the culture, you’ll find more than enough to meet your fancy in 2009. Here’s a list of special events, along with some everyday pleasures for a vacation as delightful as the finest blend of Scotch whiskey. CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
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Photo courtesy of Visit Scotland NJSL 23
Homecoming Scotland’s Special Events/Activities for 2009 HERITAGE
for a multitude of anchorages along the way, with planned activities at the distilleries at Oban, Skye, Talisker and Lagavulin. www.worldcruising.com/classicmaltscruise
The Gathering 2009, Edinburgh, July 25-26
MUSIC AND ART
This ambitious event is expected to be the largest clan gathering since 1862. A parade of nearly 8,000 clans people will march in front of 30,000 spectators from the Palace of Holyrood down the Royal Mile to the esplanade of Castle Rock for a pageant filled with piping and dance. On Sunday, the 2009 World Highland Games Heavy Events takes place with events like “tossing the caber” and “putting the stone.” www.clangathering.org
International Genealogy Festival, University of Strathclyde, Glasgow, July 21-24 A worldwide celebration of Scots’ genealogy, family history and heraldry with exhibitions, lectures and historic walks. www.strath.ac.uk/homecomingscotland
Piping Live! Music of the Clans, Glasgow, Aug. 10-16 A showcase of talented international pipers at various venues throughout the city leads up to the World Pipe Band Championships (Aug. 15) with more than 8,000 pipers and drummers competing for the title at Glasgow Green. www.pipingfestival.co.uk, www.seeglasgow.com/piping
Mackintosh 100, Glasgow
2009 Scottish Golf Show, Exhibition & Conference Centre, Glasgow, March 20-22
The centenary celebration of the 100-year-old building designed by native son, Charles Rennie Macintosh, at the Glasgow School of Art. The acclaimed architect and designer’s art nouveau influences can also be seen at the Willow Tea Room where you can dine on one of Mackintosh’s iconic high-backed chairs and at House for an Art Lover in Bellahouston Park. Visitors can tour a suite of rooms, lunch in the cafe and stroll the grounds. www.gsa.ac.uk, www.houseforanartlover.co.uk, www.willowtearooms.co.uk
More than 100 exhibitors let you try the latest equipment on putting greens, short game areas and a driving range. Free lessons from professional golfers and trick shot demos. www.thescottishgolfshow.co.uk
Year-Round Best Bets
Find Your Clan MacDonald or MacGregor? Don’t know? Then use Rabbie’s “clan finder” and join one of six different clan tours to trace your ancestors’ roots on a two to four day small group tour (16 people or less) with a knowledgeable guide. Various dates and locations, www.rabbies.com
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Homecoming Scotland Drive it Home Scotland's biggest ever golf promotion offers a free foursome for overseas golfers and other savings. Ongoing, www.driveithome2009.com
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The Open Championship at Turnberry, July 17-18
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Depart Edinburgh on the Orient-Express Northern Belle and enjoy Champagne Bellinis with a full Scottish breakfast en route to Turnberry. Attend the Open Championship followed by a champagne reception as the Northern Belle returns to Edinburgh. www.turnberry2009.com
WHISKEY Spirit of the West, Inveraray, May 16-17 A weekend celebration during the “Whiskey Month” of May on the splendid grounds of Inveraray Castle, home to the Duke of Argyll. Whiskey tasting, food sampling and cookery demonstrations will run alongside historical trails, fashion shows, music, arts and crafts and golfing activities. www.spiritofthewest.co.uk, www.inverarary-castle.co.uk
Classic Malts Cruise, Islay, July 11-24 Those with a passion for sailing and single malt scotch are invited to join a 200 mile voyage from the southern shore of Islay, the most southerly island in the Inner Hebrides, to the northwest of Skye. The two-week journey allows From top: A personalized whiskey blend from Glengoyne; Totty Rocks in Edinburgh, and Demijohn, the ‘liquid deli.’ Bottom: courtesy of Visit Scotland, floral display at St. Andrews Golf Course. 24 NJSL | FEBRUARY 2009
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Cheese of Arran at the farmers’ market
TASTE
Cheese of Arran at the farmers’ market
Join the residents and stroll the Edinburgh Farmers' Market every Saturday at the base of Edinburgh Castle. Meat and seafood purveyors and farm-fresh vegetables are sold alongside prepared foods like Prince Bishop Pie with venison, red currant jelly and brandy from North Country Lass, cheddar cheese from the Isle of Arran, freshly baked bread, organic beer and homemade porridge bars from Stoats. If you’re attending one of the many events at Inveraray Castle, the finest and freshest seafood CONTINUED ON PAGE 27
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is served nearby at Loch Fyne Oyster Bar in Cairndow. The unassuming old farm building is just off the shore from Loch Fyne and Mussels from Loch also houses a small market Fyne Oyster Bar full of treats. www.lochfyne.com Demijohn defines itself as a “liquid deli” where you are invited to sample everything from Rhubarb Vodka to Lyme Bay Apricot. Once you’ve picked a favorite (or two), choose a bottle to fill from the glass kegs and personalize it with a marker. Branches in Edinburgh and Glasgow, www.demijohn.co.uk Of course, no visit would be complete without a whiskey tasting. With nearly 100 distilleries in Scotland you may want to visit several. The Glengoyne Distillery, about 30 minutes from Glasgow, offers the usual tour along with the novel opportunity to create your own blended whiskey during a “Master Blender Session.” www.glengoyne.com
FASHION Tartan with a Twist
Secret Scottish Gourmet Getaway
T
he Ardeonaig is a hidden treasure that quickly unfolds once you get past the tiny foyer and reception room. Reserve judgment, however, for you’ll soon discover that this is part of the genius of the place. As you meander down the corridor, you’ll find a series of sitting rooms much more inviting and intimate. The white room with its plump sofas is perfect for a pre-dinner drink; the study, with oversized windows and view of Loch Tay, lends itself to an afternoon tea, and the library is the place to while away a misty afternoon with a scotch and a book by the fire. There are lovely rooms in the main inn but the star accommodations are the rondawels (individual bungalows) that line the river bank with private patios. The thatched cottages are spacious and well-appointed, with grand soaking tubs and separate walkin showers. Chef/owner Peter Gottgens is zealous in his approach to presenting the finest Scottish cuisine. The dishes may not be traditional but the ingredients are: Gottgens’ philosophy is to combine fresh and seasonal local ingredients to showcase their true texture and flavor rather than disguise them in a sauce. On a recent visit, the menu included thick cut Uig Lodge Salmon from the Isle of Lewis and line-caught Loch Tarbet
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Seabass seasoned with herbs from the chef’s own garden. Lamb is always a favorite here because it’s procured from the inn’s own flock of sheep that grazes only on heather, per Gottgens’ directive. Whether you dine upstairs in the restaurant or downstairs in the wine cellar, be sure to reserve at least one night for the tasting menu with paired wines. In a nod to the chef’s South African heritage, the wines served are exclusively South African and many are from small vineyards that produce less than 1,000 bottles a year. Interestingly, Gottgens will create a dish to match a wine rather than look for a wine to match a dish. Nearby excursions include the picturesque town of Killin, with its open view of water cascading over rocks at the Falls of Dochart. The village is also home to the Breadalbane Folklore Centre, with its giant waterwheel and presentations on Celtic traditions. To the east, in Aberfeldy, is the Dewar’s World of Whiskey, where you can tour the distillery before settling into a scotch tasting. THE ARDEONAIG HOTEL South Road Loch Tay, Ardeonaig, Perthshire Telephone: 01567 820400 • info@ardeonaighotel.co.uk www.ardeonaighotel.co.uk
Courtesy of 21st Century Kilts
Photos courtesy of the Ardeonaig Hotel
Howie Nicholsby turned Scottish fashion on its head when he started offering kilts in everything from black leather to pinstripes and even a Desert Storm camouflage print. Not ready to leave convention behind? Nicholsby’s 21st Century Kilts shares space with his father’s traditional made-to-measure company, Geoffrey (Tailor) Kilt Makers, so there’s something to please everyone. Glasgow and Edinburgh, www.21stcentury-kilts.com Anta is a family-run Scottish design and architecture firm known for its modern interpretation of traditional Scottish style. You’ll find gorgeous made-to-order silk corsets in contemporary colors, lambs’ wool and silk throws, men’s ties and enchanting stoneware dressed in tartan. Edinburgh, www.anta.com A hip young brand designed and produced exclusively in Scotland, Totty Rocks uses tartan for a wrap trench and accessorizes it with a traditional sporran bag updated in red and white patent leather. Edinburgh, www.tottyrocks.com
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RESOURCES www.visitscotland.com General planning information www.homecomingscotland2009.com Calendar of special events www.ancestralscotland.com For help designing an itinerary to correlate with your family name
www.inveraray-castle.com Site of Spirit of the West festival, Connect Music festival, and Clan Campbell Gathering www.rabbies.com Join an organized small group tour (16 or less) for one to eight days to explore the best of Scotland or have a tour tailor made.
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