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Wildlife Cruising
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TOR BAY Wildlife Cruising
e mild English Riviera winter climate and Tor Bay’s east-facing aspect make the area a perfect wintering place for sheltering seabirds around the beaches and coves. Mike Langman tells us more.
Peregrine Falcon
Kelly’s Hero
Othe headlands and further out in the Bay you will often see dolphins, porpoises and sea-going (pelagic) birds. A boat cruise is a wonderful way to explore Tor Bay and enables wildlife-lovers to peep into secluded coves, check out the towering cli s at Berry Head, and enjoy an open sea crossing in beautiful Tor Bay towards Hope’s Nose. e geologically fascinating o shore stacks of Cod Rock and Mew Stone at Berry Head, e Orestone Rock, Flat Rock (Lead Stone) and atcher Rock regularly hold bird species not seen from shore. During wildlife cruises, guides will help you spot wintering and migrating divers, grebes, gannets and auks like guillemots plus smaller numbers of razorbills. Surprisingly the cli colonies of guillemot at Berry Head and Orestone are bustling with life even during the winter. is is quite unlike colonies further north in the UK where guillemots leave in early July and only return the following spring. In Southern England guillemots return to the cli s to roost and rest from October then stay throughout the winter.
Even before the cruises leave the harbour in Brixham during winter and spring, grey seals can be seen hauled out on pontoons oblivious to the boats, thus o ering truly fantastic photo opportunities. Guides will help passengers separate cormorants from shags both of which are common in the harbour. Gulls are sometimes tricky, but unusual and increasing numbers of Mediterranean gull are usually found and you may see a rarer Iceland or Glaucous gull.
Further out to sea gannets perform spectacular dives into the sea, dislocating their wings at the shoulder just before hitting the surface, to blast into the water like a torpedo. Kittiwakes, our prettiest gull with their teddy bear black eyes and delicate yellow bills, dip into the sea surface after small sh. Occasionally a scarce wintering pomarine or Great skua might arrive to aggravate the situation attempting to make an unfortunate gannet or gull regurgitate its last meal! e mixing of currents o Berry Head makes for a rich feeding area for deeper pelagic birds and cetaceans. With a bit of luck, cruise passengers will spot harbour porpoises our smallest UK dolphin, normally not at all social animals but sometimes seen in pairs. Hopefully pods of common dolphins will be found which are regular visitors to the bay during the winter and early spring, sometimes in large numbers.
Back in Tor Bay, wintering divers may be found; the
Great northern diver
large Great northern divers may have come from Iceland or Greenland to spend the winter months in the shelter our horseshoe-shaped bay o ers. As spring arrives the divers quickly moult into their stunning spangled summer plumage.
On the cli s everyone looks out for our apex predator the Peregrine falcon, a bird almost wiped out by agrichemicals in the 1950 & 60s but has made a good recovery; it is more often than not seen on the wildlife cruises.
Late spring boat trips in Torbay are also fascinating. You should be able to see the last of our wintering seabirds often well into May. en there are the returning summer migrants like Sandwich terns regularly resting on the buoys well out in Tor Bay or common sandpipers and whimbrel tucked into secluded coves – perhaps a small ock of them.
Last year we found a couple of pu ns and the bridled form of guillemot, along with the usual guillemots. ere should be a good supporting cast of kittiwake, porpoises, grey seals, peregrines and much more. Sightings of common dolphin are always a bit hit and miss in the spring but the biggest super pod recorded o Tor Bay of about 1,000 dolphins passed Berry Head several years ago in May!
All too soon a two-and-a-half to three-hour cruise is over – but they can prove addictive as every cruise is di erent with such a variety of incredible wildlife that could be discovered. Make sure you book on a WISE accredited scheme/skippered boat as they are supported by the Marine Management Organisation (MMO) and are very careful not to disturb any of the fantastic wildlife around Tor Bay.
Photos and words by Mike Langman a regular guide on Kellys Hero charter wildlife cruises. mikelangman.co.uk
Common Dolphin
About Mike Langman
Mike Langman has been a full-time bird illustrator since 1992 and 84 published books feature his beautiful artwork. His work is regularly seen in birdwatching magazines including BBC Wildlife and Countryfi le magazines. If you’ve spotted bird illustrations at any RSPB reserve in the UK, you’ve almost certainly seen his work. A keen birder since the age of eleven Mike’s knowledge and love of birds and other natural history has made him a hugely popular guide and speaker. Walks, cruises and tours tend to book up quickly. Forthcoming events include: 11 February Tor Bay Winter Boat Trip (from Brixham) 8 April & 27 May Spring Tor Bay Wildlife Cruises 9 May Loddiswell – River Avon & Avon Woods 16 May Dartmoor Cuckoos and Chats April – September Devon Beaver and Wildlife Excursions Advance booking essential for all trips. See Mike’s website for further details.
Th a H d Th a H d Th a H d
National Treasure who loved Torbay
One of Britain’s most popular actresses, ora Hird played all the theatres of Devon, performing a whole season at Torquay’s Pavilion eatre and later staying at Watcombe Park with her husband James Scott. Ian Handford of Torbay Civic Society tells us more.
Thora, the last child of James Hird manager of e Royalty eatre Morecambe and Mary J Mayor daughter of a local sherman, was born at Morecambe on May 28th 1911. She made her rst public appearance when as a baby she was carried onto stage by her father who was acting in a melodrama.
From her earliest years ora could relate stories well and when her grandfather disappeared, her father announced that he hoped this ‘buccaneer’ would never come back. is was superb material for a ‘teller of tales’. Later she and her older brother Nev (Neville) recalled sitting around the re with school chums while their mother related her own stories of life in the theatre.
ora and her gang of young “ friends recognised these as good times while consuming vast quantities of “cocoa and mother’s apple pie or currant pasty”.
Sadness came when a motorbike on the Morecambe promenade killed her sister Olga when ora was just six. However, most memories were of happy times. She attended Miss Nelson’s Preparatory School at Morecambe where her parents paid extra fees so that she could attend special music and dancing classes.
For ten years she was employed as a cashier at the local Co-op – a good place to hone her observational skills. Eventually she knew she wanted to be on stage at the Royalty eatre, a place by then she knew well. She could play-act any character and in retirement she wrote, “I’ve played all the customers I used to serve: maids, landladies, cleaners and forthright parents. In fact when I’m acting I’ll do some little thing I’ve remembered, it’s that simple”. Of course it was never quite that simple. She might have to act out fty-seven (Heinz) ways of carrying a tray of co ee onto the stage before the producer ticked the one preferred. ora was forever indebted to her parents in spite of her father being against her going on stage. Her diary con rms their support, “ ey taught me everything I knew about the theatre”. She remembered her father as a man who “never just left a room, he made an exit”. Gradually ora learned how to make a memorable exit herself.
Her biography tells another wonderful incident where her father (in his capacity as director) addressed her in front of the theatre sta at a rehearsal of the ‘ e Student Prince’. He demanded, “Do you know how to spell the
word comedienne Miss Hird?” He was a tough, ‘old style’ master, yet a man with huge professional skills. During his last evening on earth he came to his daughter’s bedroom to say, “Goodnight love - you’re a wonderful bloody actress and I’ve lived long enough to see you perform the way you did tonight.” She replied, “Can I have that in writing?” She never spoke to him again; he died that night.
Her mother Mary also failed to live long enough to witness ora’s amazing success on stage and screen but fortunately did see her child marry James (Jimmy) Scott in May 1937. e couple produced one child Janette Scott - another famous actress of stage and screen. ora made her debut on a London stage in 1940, when appearing in ‘No Medals’ at the Vaudeville playing opposite Fay Compton and Frederick Leicester. is play ran for two years and in 1941 it was George Formby who recommended ora to Michael Bacon of Ealing studios. Soon after she was given a contract and cast in her rst lm ‘Black Sheep of Whitehall’ with Will Hay. Numerous commissions on the big screen followed although ora also remained active in theatre.
By the 1950s ora was a popular actress with the Rank Organisation where she was directed by some of the true greats of that age including Herbert Wilcox, Lewis Gilbert and John Schlesinger. roughout all her performances she was never overawed by her career, as her diary con rms, “In some cases I literally appeared – just around the door, that was all. Like anybody earning a living, I took most of the work that came along.” ora would generally be cast as an ordinary person on the street. She could easily portray any character from the saucy seaside postcards she had read or viewed at Morecombe. She would play an all-seeing, boarding house landlady or cleaner or perhaps a gossiping neighbour or even the sharp-tongued mother-in-law. e nature of the part seemed of little consequence; she had that wonderful common touch. As she said herself - she could easily get into the skin of any character.
It was when appearing in ‘ e Best Laid Plans’ at Blackpool in 1962 that ora was booked to come to Torquay the following year. She stayed here for a whole season when performing at the Pavilion eatre with Freddie Frinton. During her time in the Bay she attended many local events and o cially opened the Marldon Apple Pie Fair, which still operates today. She also supported the fancy dress competition, a decorated wheeled vehicle event, a pram and bike event and some equestrian shows. Years later she came to Watcombe Park with her beloved Jimmy after he secured a season in the orchestra at Princess eatre. Finally, her diary con rms - “after we returned from Torquay I did quite a few little bits - the Vic Oliver Show on Woman’s Hour… before starting rehearsals for All ings Bright and Beautiful” and reading the script of ‘ e Bed’, a new TV piece which she thought “was right up our street”.
It was following a summer season in Torquay that ora was asked to rope in David Frost as a secret BBC guest on the ‘ is is Your Life programme’. It was tricky from the start as she rst had to convince David Frost to attend the show. Once there, Eamonn Andrews announced, “Tonight we have the King of Satire” turning to David Frost in the front row. Cue loud applause. ora was then asked, “Did you have di culty getting him here?” “Well yes I did,” she replied. en David Frost turned to ora with the famous red book in hand and revealed, “ is is yours” as Eamonn announced, “ ora Hird - is is Your Life”. e whole thing had been a ‘double blu ’ setup (and she fell for it). ora ended up having a marvellous evening with her family and friends, all present having participated in the subterfuge. ora was later made a Dame (the female equivalent of a knighthood). She is perhaps best remembered for her performances as Edie Pegden in BBC TV’s ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ with Compo and neighbour Nora Batty. She also worked with many of the leading comedians of the era including Freddie Frinton, Harry Secombe, Ken Dodd and Arthur Askey, before being awarded a second BAFTA for Best Actress for her work with Alan Bennett’s ‘Talking Heads’ monologues.
Dame ora lost her beloved Jimmy in 1994 and having su ered lifelong arthritis her general health deteriorated until she became wheelchair bound. During her life ora starred in over 100 lms, 500 plays and an unknown number of personal appearances. She su ered a stroke at 91 in the actors’ nursing home at Brinsworth Hill London and died on March 15th 2003. torbaycivicsociety.co.uk
TORQUAY
the Italy of England
During the Napoleonic Wars when people could not travel in Europe Torquay became a substitute ‘Grand Tour’ for a uent young people. Kevin Dixon tells us the story.
In 1862 Charles Dickens wrote, “Torquay is a pretty place... a mixture of Hastings and Tunbridge Wells and home without any of the consequences they might have faced in England. little bits of the hills about Naples”.
John Ruskin would carry on the theme and call Torquay, “ e Italy of England”.
Over a century later, in a 1977 review of the newlybuilt Coral Island complex, we read of “the beautiful panoramic loveliness of Torbay, this looked to me like a part of Capri.”
And for decades the town promoted itself as ‘ e English Riviera’. Torquay resembled the coast of southern Europe because it was selected, designed and promoted to replicate the “ Britain’s elite adopted and reshaped the Bay. If they couldn’t visit the towns of Italy and France, they would recreate southern attractions of the Rivieras of Europe on the English coast Italy and France.
While the origins of the town were as a health resort, the opportunity to become the richest town in England came from the interruption of the Grand Tour, that cultural experience for a uent young folk who could a ord to wander the continent.
At school and university these men had studied Greek and Roman history, language and literature and went abroad to visit major European cultural centres. at was the theory, but they seemed to spend a great deal of time drinking, gambling, and in general promiscuity - to return ese tourists spent a great deal of money abroad. e collection of art became a theme and many came home with paintings and antiques. ey also brought with them ideas about architecture and culture. Next time you visit a National Trust property note how many art works and building styles come from this period. e Grand Tour was a well-established rite of passage until 1789 when the French Revolution abruptly halted this era of travel and enlightenment; and this is where Torquay became the great bene ciary of the many years of European con ict. For a few decades Torquay became a substitute Grand Tour for those unable to travel outside of the country... and they had a great deal of money to spend. Indeed, it may be that history is now repeating itself. Britain’s elite adopted and reshaped the Bay. If they couldn’t visit the towns of Italy and France, they would recreate southern Europe on the English coast. e in uence of the Grand Tour can still be seen in Torquay today, in the town’s architecture and tourist promotion. Perhaps the most conspicuous reminder of the yearning for foreign places is in the exotic owers and plants that
can be seen in our parks, private gardens and in how we promote our town to visitors.
During the nineteenth century Torquay’s population increased from around 800 to almost 34,000. e town became a place for the wealthy to buy holiday homes, the aged to reside, and the sick to hopefully recover from their illnesses. A new a uent middle class was eager to demonstrate their status in society and used a variety of methods. One of these was to cultivate a garden.
A garden o ered both leisure and sustenance. e innovative gardener could also produce unheard of luxuries. For example, we still have the remains of Lauriston Hall’s Orangery, just o Lucius Street, the idea being to display wealth and the ability to grow exotic fruits in an unsuitable climate.
It was at this time of enthusiasm for gardening that many of the familiar names of today were founded. Suttons Seeds, for instance, was founded in Reading
in 1806, and relocated to Torquay in 1976; in 1998 it moved again to Paignton.
In the late 1840s the Bay was connected to the rail network, which brought thousands of holidaymakers needing accommodation. is inspired the construction and conversion of hundreds of hotels and boarding houses, many of which needed a nice garden to project an appropriate image.
Torquay became a very rich place and, to communicate its special status in a market of 48 competing seaside resorts, public parks played an important role. As well as presenting a wealthy and leisured society to both residents and visitors, such spaces expressed scienti c knowledge and healthy activity.
Torbay’s microclimate further stimulated a demand for trees and plants that could not be easily grown in other parts of the country. Villas, hotels, and parks all needed plants and trees and to satisfy demand a new industry emerged - the plant nursery. Torquay’s rst plant nursery opened around 1830. By 1861 there were 4 nurseries: 6 in 1881, 10 in 1891, and 16 in 1900. Some specialised in a particular type of plant such as the famous roses of Curtis and Sanford’s ‘Devon Rosery’.
Run by nurserymen, the nurseries also had attractive gardens and glasshouses, designed to attract visitors and customers. Torquay was a competitive environment and so the rst house to acquire something new could make an impression on society, while hotels could attract a better type of guest.
Nurserymen also designed and advised on the layout of parks and gardens and stocked them with trees, plants, seeds and equipment. ese were the days of exploration and, to satisfy an interest in foreign places, they sent agents abroad to bring back seeds and cuttings from exotic places. As the Bay had easy access to ports and an ever-increasing demand, new species of tropical plants could often be found on sale in the
town even before appearing in London. ese proclaimed the town’s position as the nation’s most prestigious leisure resort at the centre of a vast Empire.
Many of these Torquay nurseries disappeared as the town expanded. ey are, however, remembered by the names of the thoroughfares that replaced them: Sanford & Co’s ‘Devon Rosery’ in Rosery Road; while ‘Morgan’s Nursery’ is remembered in Morgan Avenue. e non-British plants and trees sold by the town’s nurseries helped to reinforce the idea of Torquay being the English Riviera - foreign but also very English.
Even today it’s not unusual to come across a Monkey Puzzle tree, native to Chile and Argentina, or Bay Trees, Holm Oaks and the Italian Cyprus from the Mediterranean. And, of course, there’s the ubiquitous New Zealand Cabbage Palm, the adopted symbol of the English Riviera, all reminding us of another time and another place.
Left to right: The Marine Spa; ornate gardens overlooking the harbour; the remains of Lauriston Hall’s Orangery
Learning a rural skill
Julian Rees joins the Devon Rural Skills Trust for a day in the countryside to help restore a Devon-style hedge on farmland in Marldon.
Below: Tools of the trade, a bill hook and a holly and ash mallet
When I was invited to join a course with the Devon Rural Skills Trust (DSRT) I jumped at the chance of a day in the countryside learning a new skill. January is a short and hectic month in publishing and a day away from the keyboard and screen is always welcome.
I arrive at Loventor Farm in Marldon at 9am to meet my host Chris Baker and the other Trust volunteers and course goers. e weather is mild and dry, a perfect day for the job within a limited season that ends in March with the restrictions that nesting birds bring. Although only a couple of miles from the centre of Paignton the popping of shotguns in the near distance is a reminder of Devon’s extensive rural landscape. ere are 18 ‘students’ enrolled and at least 10 volunteers. It’s an impressive ratio of sta to students for a volunteer-run course. ose attending have come for a variety of reasons, from professional gardeners and tree surgeons looking to broaden their skills, homeowners with hedgebound gardens and land, students training towards a vocational quali cation and some just interested in gaining and preserving a lost skill. Once everyone is booked in we have a short welcome and health and safety brie ng. ere are plenty of trip hazards to avoid and sharp tools to take care with. ick leather gloves and steel toe caps are the order of the day. We’ll be stripping out debris from the hedge so it’s also likely we’ll encounter broken glass, barbed wire and rusting metal. Next up it’s time to get kitted up with the necessary tools. We have been sent a list of the basic requirements; however the Trust has a stock of the more unusual tools that even the keen gardener may not own. I have brought a pruning saw, a small axe, some loppers and a shovel so I am now allocated a bill hook - a sturdy curved metal blade sharpened on one side with an ash handle which is the main tool we will be using to lay (or steep) the hedge. e tool has been recently sharpened (the DSRT run another course for this) and I have to admit that it is so sharp it would put my kitchen knives to shame!
Before...
