Mad for Mushrooms:
the Magic of Mycology Fungi are unique, their own category. They are neither plant nor animal, but some of the most ancient living organisms on the planet. And they are as popular as ever right now, not simply as a result of the Fantastic Fungi: The Magic Beneath Us documentary (2019), either. A Moving Art production directed by Louie Schwartzberg, the essential premise of Fantastic Fungi is the general leitmotif of the entire environmental movement: oneness. We must accept that as humans, as an animal species, we are very much part of the ecosystem that is planet Earth. When we accept that, low and behold we start to care what happens to that ecosystem and the part we truly play in it.
Fungi offer “the wisdom of a billion years”, fossils of mycelium having been found in lava sediments in South Africa, thought to date back some 2.4 billion years. The film concentrates on the work of mycologist Paul Stamets, who owns the factory FUNGI PERFECT 1 in Washington state and who gave the TED Talk “6 Ways Mushrooms Can Save the World” (describing how oyster mushrooms turned an oil spill into an oasis). Stamets is utterly in awe of his specialism: “mushrooms represent rebirth, rejuvenation, regeneration […] Fungi generate soil that gives life”. Indeed, with regard to the environment at large, earth become deadened by years of chemical pesticides and fertilisers, fungi can return it to a nutrient-rich soil; they are “ecosystem engineers”. As for insecticides, there are bug-eating fungi out there, too (including cordyceps; see below). Suffering from a terrible stutter as a boy, Stamets would stare at the ground in embarrassment – which is how he began finding mushrooms (and fossils). His mycological fascination is mirrored by food journalist and author, Eugenia Bone, who explains, “mushrooms were the window by which I came to understand nature in a deeper way”. She notes that, in contrast to Stamets’ focus on their life-giving qualities, mushrooms symbolise death for many, but that berries too can kill. In other words, fungi are both at the beginning and at the end of life; the unifier of the cycle of existence and interconnector of all beings. As Stamets says, “Mycelium is the mother of all of us”. 52
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Fungi varieties are myriad, but “mycodiversity is biodiversity”. Indeed, there are over 1.6 million species (six times the number of plants) and new species are being discovered on nearly a daily basis. However, only 20,000 of those produce mushrooms (the sexual organs of fungi, used to reproduce the spore of the fungus). It seems fruitless to list any, given the breadth, yet those of us who cook can note ceps or porcini (Boletus edulis) and chanterelle and girolle (Cantharellus cibarius); we can recognise enoki (Flammulina velutipes) and chestnut and common mushrooms (Agaricus bisporus); and we sometimes hunt down some shiitake (Lentinula edodes), maitake (Grifola frondosa), and oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus) for an exotic healthy boost. We might not realise it, but there are sacrobes in our favourite wine, cheese, and beer, as well (sacrobes break down anything hydrocarbon based). Meanwhile, a penicillin mould runs through Roquefort and blue cheeses. Then, of course, there are truffles.
Often referred to as “black gold”, truffles are renowned (expensively) for their pungent, umami taste. From wild black or brown truffles (Tuber uncinatum, Tuber aestivum) to Black Périgord (Tuber melanosporum) and white or northern Italian (Tuber magnatum) – truffles are a foodie’s idea of heaven. Resulting from a fungus on tree roots (whether oak, beech, birch, or hazel or other arboreal species), a once thriving truffle industry – using dogs to sniff them out – was, erm, snuffed out by WWI and “dog tax”, as well as loss of biodiversity from modern farming land degradation, through woodland and hedgerow removal. Only a small amount of truffle is needed, though, in order to flavour incomparably-well a bowl of pasta or risotto; it can even simply be grated over tenderly cooked vegetables. Containing up to 30% protein, truffles benefit the gut microbiome (with the complexity of its microbial content) and also protect the liver, while providing anti-inflammatory benefits and immune system support. Worth the investment, in our opinion.
