MANIFESTO what is youth in revolT We are gritty fashion. We are antiglamour. We are about not giving a shit what others think. We want to have fun, and do things our way. We are messy nights out and first trains back home in the morning. We are piercings and tattoos, ripped jeans and stains. We revel in being provocative and shocking your elders. We are paint splatters and music played loud. Too polished? Scruff it up! We are urban creatures and punk townies and everything inbetween. We are living for the moment and using what you’ v e got. We are young, free and want to cau se a fucking riot! We are Youth In Revolt, and this is Issue 1. 7
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C ONT
THE SELFIE
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n i h t u o Y
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endrerit sapien ulla commoeros. Proin landit eget , mattis malesuada on sagittis celerisque ultriquam. eo fringilla rhoncus oreet mi dapibus at magna,
Are you a selfie taker? Dive into the world of online fame in THE AGE OF THE SELFIE.
Page 30
Pops of colour, clashing prints and tantalizing textures create the most unexpected ensembles in CUT AND PASTE.
Meet the cool kids and youth rebels in URBAN CREATURES.
Page 44
How do the new squatting laws affect this generation’s creatives? Find out in A RIGHT TO CREATE.
Page 63
See how we challenge the conventions of menswear and recreate the new silhoutte in REBEL REBEL.
Page 66
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We discuss bindis, buffalos and Boy London in this months REVOLT OF THE MONTH
Page 124
We question the traditions of menswear fashion, and those who have broke the mould in ARE YOU MAN ENOUGH.
Experiment and explore your youridentity identitycrazy through through make-up crazy and coloured make-uphair and in coloured ARMY OF ME. hair in ARMY OF ME. Page 98
Page 80
Page 00 We get creative painting, ripping and stitching our clothing in DO IT YOURSELF.
Plan your trip to Dublin based on our insider info in A YOUNG PERSONS GUIDE TO DUBLIN Page 108
Page 84
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YOUTH IN REVOLT TEAM The burning question we’ve posed to our team members this month - What’s your take on selfies?
MOLLY BRIDGER
KIMBERLEY SMITH
SOPHIE WATSON
Molly has been speaking to ska/ drum and bass heavyweights Dub Pistols ahead of their Jazz Café gig on page 119 and shooting boys wearing skirts in muddy fields on page 66 for our wayward menswear shoot.
Kimberley has been busy questioning the conventions of the male wardrobe and those challenging it on page 80. She also explores the importance of squatting and unconventional living for todays young creatives on page 63.
Sophie’s been getting experimental with paint for the Do It Yourself shoot she styled on page 84 and dissected what the term “selfie” means to our generation on page 30.
“We all love a selfie, everyone takes them including me!”
“VAIN, VAIN, VAIN. I would never take a selfie.”
“The occasional iPhone snap of your face is fun, I’d be lost without Instagram!”
AOIFE FINEGAN
JASMINE PALMER
KATE SINCLAIR
Aoife took a trip to her hometown of Dublin to seek out what the Irish city has to offer on page 108. She also shoots the rebellious suburban youth for our Urban Creatures editorial on page 44.
Check out Jasmines store review of Brick Lane hotspot Village Bicycle on page 21 and her skills with a make up brush in our bizarre beauty shoot on page 98.
Kate’s been busy rounding up our top news stories this month and profiling upcoming artists and designers who are finding their feet in the creative industries on pages 22-27.
“Ooh I LOVE a selfie me!”
“Guilty as charged!”
“I’d like to think I’m cool enough to say I’ve never taken one, but whatever... Embrace the face!”
ISSUE 1 EXCLUSIVE DOUBLE COVERS 13
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Top of our wish list this season is the must have coffee table staple documenting THE love affair of the 60s & 70’s that still enthrals many of us today. The very public relationship of the British actress and singer Jane Birkin and French singer-song writer Serge Gainsbourg was passionate, unique and truly captivating. The two met on the set of the film ‘Slogan’ and began a relationship that lasted twelve years, during which their daughter Charlotte was born in 1971. Photographed by Birkin’s brother Andrew, this latest publication, named ‘Jane & Serge. A Family Album’, depicts some of the rare intimate and more private moments shared by the infatuated couple.
The Grand Budapest Hotel
James Franco & Seth Rogan Recreate Kanye’s “Bound 2”
CHECK OUT THE LATEST MOVIES, BOOKS, COLLABORATIONS, EVENTS AND MORE THAT WE’RE LOVING THIS MONTH.
Jane & Serge. A Family Album published by Taschen £34.99
So unless you’ve been living with your head in a hole for the past few weeks, I’m sure you’ll have watched (or the very least heard about!) Kanye West’s new music video featuring his fiancé Kim Kardashian. Best described as a visual journey through Windows 95” it’s quite an understatement to say that the video is a tad embarrassing and left many viewers feeling almost violated on some level... But as if that wasn’t entertaining enough by it’s own credit, comedy duo James Franco and Seth Rogan have released their own parody of the “Bound 2” vid shot for shot. Franco takes on the role of Kanye whilst Rogan flutters his eyelids at the camera and suggestively bounces about Kardashian style. The two caress and intimately reenact the video down to the fine detail, somehow managing to keep straight faces throughout - a must see!
fashion in motion: meadham kirchhoff The Anglo-French design duo that is Meadham Kirchhoff, made up of Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff, have recently been the subject of the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Fashion in Motion series. The pair presented highlights from all of the label’s collections to date in a day of exclusive catwalk shows on Friday 6 December. The designers, who cite influences such as Courtney Love and The Riot Grrrls alongside classic portraiture selected their personal highlights to send down the catwalk accompanied by innovative moving art work props and a synthony of playful soundtracks. Edward and Benjamin commented that “when approaching every collection or garment we secretly hope to make something worthy of being seen in a museum, so for us it is an honour to present a show comprised of hand-picked pieces from our favourite collections”. Yet another success story for the Fashion In Motion initiative!
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A Family Album
NEWS
Rejoice! Wes Anderson is releasing a new film and as expected, it looks to be a goodun! The trailer for Anderson’s latest masterpiece has just been released and if you haven’t already seen it, we strongly suggest you snap to it. ‘The Grand Budapest Hotel’ stars the regular favourite including Owen Wilson, Jason Schwatrzman, Jeff Goldblum, Tilda Swinton, Edward Norton, Adrien Brody, Willem Dafoe and of course, Bill Murray. New stars joining the Anderson clan come in the form of Saoirse Ronan, Jude Law, Lea Seydoux, Ralph Fiennes, and Tony Revolori. Set in a famous Euorpean hotel run by protaginist Fiennes, the film narrates the adventures the legendary concierge and his lobby -boy-in-training and trusted friend Zero. There’s murder, robbery and romance and all in Wes’ well known eccentric style. We can’t wait for this release!
Earthfall - The Chelsea Hotel Earthfall are a Cardiff based dance-theatre performance company who pride themselves on engaging and provoking shows with radical choreography. Their latest production draws inspiration from New York’s infamous Chelsea Hotel which was once home to some of the worlds biggest icons including musicians Patti smith, Bob Dylan, Rufus Wainwright, Jeff Beck and Alice Cooper as well as previous residents such as Stanley Kubrick, Leonard Cohen and Jack Karouac. Through innovative dance and performance, Earthfall reveal some of the poetry and tragicomic events that occurred in the iconic hotel as well as illustrating it’s place in contemporary culture. The show is described as a “Voyeuristic discovery of its inhabitants’ lives, loves and longings”. The true and false stories of individuals from Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe to Dylan Thomas and Tennessee Williams take focus and interplay through radical dance, live music and film, capturing significant moments in history of this rebel artist mecca.
maison martin margiela x show studio
Earthfall’s The Chelsea Hotel is will be touring throughout the UK from October through to December. For further details visit earthfall.org.uk
SHOWstudio will be joining forces with Maison Martin Margiela for an exclusive exhibition entitled SHOWcabinet centred all around memory. This will explore the pivotal role of scent in triggering reminiscence and will feature Margiela’s Replica range of fragrances. SHOWstudio and Margiela have created an installation to examine this olfactory manner of rwecollection, which features work by a collection of illustrators who were asked to create drawings that depict memories prompted by one of the Replica Perfumes.
david shrigley x sketch restauraunt
SHOWcabinet is open from 28 November
Turner prize nominee David Shrigley has been commissioned to redesign the image of well known restaurant Sketch in central London. Best known for his cartoon like drawings that are accompanied by satirical commentaries on everyday situations and human interactions, Shrigley is to create an environment which is all at once an exhibition, an artwork and a fully functioning restaurant. He is set to totally redesign the vast dinning room with elements that range from a large scale animated mural on all four walls to even tableware featuring his distinctive witty drawings. Shrigley who commented “I’m delighted to be working with Sketch” will even be designing the crockery! Well we know where we want to head for our next meal out.
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SHOPTheOF THE MONTH Village Bicycle
Socialite and heiress Willa Keswick, 29 is the owner of east end hotspot‘the village bicycle’
Village Bicycle Ltd is an entirely fashion focused boutique and website based in Brick Lane and is designed to encapsulate the energy and vibrant creativity from London and around the world. The lifestyle boutique sells a wide range of products from women’s wear (including lingerie, shoes and accessories) to art, furniture and music. They offer seasonal collections from emerging designers, along with collaborations with celebrities and designer endorsed products throughout the year. On visiting the Brick Lane shop, I managed to chat with the owner herself and a few of the staff….. You stock so many quirky designs. How do you go about sourcing stock? “We are all about finding out who’s the next big fashion designer, we also like to support young and upcoming creatives and like to promote new and innovative designs we know will sell. We purchase stock from around the globe and are not afraid to think out of the box, selling brands such as Mink Pink, Felder Felder, Bitching and Junkfood…the list goes on.” You stock items which could be described as rebellious e.g. cannabis energy drink, sex cereal, The Big Penis book etc. etc. What made you pick items like these to sell? “They get people talking. They are light hearted and cheesy, but so quirky. People generally never leave the shop without buying something, as there is always an item that stirs their imagination.” Who are your top 3 stockists and why? “Lucy in Disguise. It has a vast collection of hand picked original pieces, combining classic collectible labels, high-end vintage fashion and more eclectic, edgy styles. Mink Pink. The designs are inspirational yet affordable, original pieces. We love their slogan of ‘Be Brave, Be Free.’ Illustrated People. They believe in originality and freedom of expression and they really push the boundaries in the commercial fashion industry.” You collect and display the famous 80’s magazine ‘The Face’, how did that come about? “Its key to the type of audience we are trying to appeal to. They are confident and like to express themselves and we believe The Face magazine allows readers an alternative insight. There isn’t another big iconic magazine out there that is even similar to the Face anymore, which is sad. We are about vintage and if we can get more of our customers interested in this type of lifestyle, stocking The Face is definitely a good thing for all.” You must love working here as the shop is so vibrant in décor and items stocked. What is your favourite part about working here? “The décor is one of the things our customers first mention when coming into the shop. It’s designed to attract the eye at every turn and I think it achieves that, as every item has a set place, but intentionally looks as though it doesn’t. I also love the variety of items we stock. I get excited about coming in to work and I’m never bored.” Th Village Bicycle is open Monday to Saturday, 11am till 7pm, Unit 7 Dray Walk, 91 Brick Lane, London, E1 6QL Tel: 0207 313 9031 Words by Jasmine Palmer 21
a mm PROFILE
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Print designer Emma Cope recently graduated and her dynamic and colourful style will no doubt take her far. We chat to her about her latest projects, inspirations and plans for the future Q. Walk us through the process of creating one of your illustrations. A. Since leaving university I have felt the want to draw for the sake of drawing. I have gone back to not particularly having a concept or theme to work from but just to create what comes into my head, I find this a much more enjoyable process. I usually tend to create most patterns digitally; these would develop from initial drawings. I especially enjoy using a photocopier as a source for manipulating drawings into instant patterns of a fluid nature.. Q. How would you describe your work? A. Playful
Q. What inspires you and your work?
A. I get inspiration from music and video and general youth culture. Music has been a strong influence on the themes of the work I create, whether it is reflecting mood shown through colour and texture, or within movement of the pattern. Q. Your work features lots of gorgeous patterns on models, have you created (thought of creating) your own collection? A. Creating patterns is what I enjoy, it would be great to see them put into production for a collection, id love to collaborate with someone where I could design the print work and they could produce the garment, as I have no technical knowledge in that department! I would be most happy seeing my print designs applied to a variation of products, as music is influence of my creativity it would be great to work on a project with a musician.
Q. Who would you love to work/collaborate with in the future?
Q. Where do you see your work in 5 years time?
A. Agi and Sam for their use of colour and print, and the cut of garments. I also realy admire the work of Anna Lomax, who uses bold pattern and colour with contrasting materials to create experimental set design. Her work creates a sense of fun it would be awesome to be able to work with her bringing my illustrations to life!
Q. Our magazine is all about revolting against the mainstream, what are you revolting against at the moment?
Q. Have you got any new and exciting projects coming up? A. At the moment I am working at an advertising agency in east London, learning the ropes of an unfamiliar and exciting industry, whilst trying to find my feet and gaining experience and a broader understanding of media and art direction. Q. What has inspired you recently?
A. The news. After the London riots I was really interested in this idea of a forgotten generation and all the stereotypes surrounding the news coverage. I started making up characters and stories that illustrated these social problems. It was a step away from the fashionbased work I had been doing so it was a really different direction for me. Q. List 5 things that are exciting you at the moment.
A. The official Tate Best of Britain playlist, made in collaboration with dazed and confused to celebrate the relaunch of the Tate Britain and experimental British music. David Mendez Alonso, an artist that combines set design and illustration. Little boots’ reactive led dress, an exciting example of technology combined with music and fashion. The release of Wes Anderson’s latest film; The Grand Budapest hotel. Christmas!
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A. Being used in collaboration with designers and artists, working on campaigns and sets for projects in media and advertising.
A. I am revolting against Christmas haters! Words by Aoife Finegan
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PROFILE
r o n o C h p e s o J
We spoke to up and coming jewellery designer Conor Joseph about his conceptual designs, his inspirations, and plans to change the face of jewellery design. Q. What first made you realise you wanted to go into jewellery design, has it been something you have always been passionate about? A. I think I was around 11 or 12 when I started to notice fashion in general, something sparked my interest in fashion and design, it really grew from there I guess. I started making beading bracelets and necklaces for my mum and her sisters, which developed into me working on a dressmaking market stall on Saturday mornings, which the owner allowed me to sell some of my pieces on the side. It was a nice feeling at 15 being paid a few quid for my mediocre beaded jewellery, my work has changed a lot since then, I hope. Q. A lot of your work isn’t conventional jewellery design, but quite experimental and conceptual, was this a conscious decision, to break the traditions of jewellery design? A. That is Central Saint Martin’s conscious decision to be ‘out there’ and ‘conceptual’. Looking back I’m glad they pushed me in the way they did, but It was an ongoing battle in my final year to have a collection that represented myself and my personality and not my uber cool university….. Q. Your graduate collection from CSM sees you working around the body and adorning body parts such as the thumb and inbetween fingers, what was the inspiration point behind this? A. Im a man obsessed with the body and all its glory, I find human and animal anatomy fascinating. I think the body, especially skin has so much detail and beauty to it, there is so much information to play and manipulate with on the body. I always felt that jewellery didn’t have to hang on the neck or be pinned into a piercing but could just as easily be molded and wrapped around the contours instead, it’s just a different way of wearing jewellery. I don’t feel it’s new or conceptual, it’s just an alternative to other main stream styles.
Q. You said within the collection that you wanted the jewellery to be worn by both sexes, is this something important to you- to popularise unisex jewellery?
A. Absolutely, I wear a lot of women’s jewellery and even women’s clothing. I’m not androdnynous nor transgender, I just wear what feels right to me, I’m quite tall and have stupid long arms so finding something that fits me right is more important than where it came from or who it was intentionally for. I think especially more men would be surprised what they could find if they looked in the women’s section of a store then just the men’s department. Q. You studied at Central Saint Martins, one of the best design schools within the UK, what was it like studying there? A. Mix bag of emotions really, good and bad, fantastic and shit all rolled in one. I have definitely learnt a lot about jewellery design and about myself in those 3 years at Saint Martin’s. I would say the people you would or will meet there are some of the most creative minds this country has to offer and you are lucky enough to learn and grow with them. The friends I have made are literally the greatest people you will ever meet, funny, caring and extremely talented is was a pleasure getting to know them and even more of a pleasure of still being a tight knit group even though we have all graduated and are living our ‘adult’ lives, whatever being and ‘adult’ means. Q. Tell us about the way you start working on a new project, do you like to collate inspiration points first, or do you get stuck in with experimenting and creating? A. Mix bag of emotions really, good and bad, fantastic and shit all rolled in one. I have definitely learnt a lot about jewellery design and about myself in those 3 years at Saint Martin’s. I would say the people you would or will meet there are some of the most creative minds this country has to offer and you are lucky enough to learn and grow with them. The friends I have made are literally the greatest people you will ever meet, funny, caring and extremely talented is was a pleasure getting to know them and even more of a pleasure of still being a tight knit group even though we have all graduated and are living our ‘adult’ lives, whatever being and ‘adult’ means. 24
Q. Do you have any advice for someone who wants to be a jewellery designer? A. Don’t do it! Go into business school or stripping you will make a fuck load more money. Jewellery itself is a huge market that has such a demand for new ideas and is ever growing worldwide. Jewellery design and making is a small niche that is progressively losing touch with the traditional techniques favoring the digital design. It is amazing skill to take a piece of raw flat metal and turn it into something that is then coveted and desired. I think I need to be in the field a few more years as a working designer before I can give any useful advice, I just think this skill in making jewellery especially fine jewellery is priceless, you can see and feel things in objects and materials that other people just can’t. Q.Our magazine is all about revolting against the mainstream, is there anything you would want to revolt against? A.The London wage for graduating students, I do ok but I struggle from time to time but I know there are people who are barely scraping by, I don’t understand how anyone is expected to pay off debts if you’re not paid enough to cover you monthly rent. Now that is fucking Revolting!
Q. What has inspired you recently?
A. All sorts really again there are just some really weird quite fucked up ideas in my head that I have made into wax molds that I am casting in silver. My work has gone from natural to more organic and alien like and even quite phallic I would say. I have always felt there is something slightly sexual about my work; my pieces fit on you like a second skin so I’m expanding on this tension and making it more suggestive and aggressive I suppose. Also have you seen the trailer for Disney’s Malifecent. Angelina Jolie……YES! Im a sucker for an Evil Queen Villianess with a supermodel face. Q. Do you have any exciting up and coming projects at the moment? A. At the moment I work for a costume jewellery company which sells designs to most high street stores so I am excited to see a lot of my designs that were produced that will be out on the high street for Spring/ Sumer 2014. When I get time I literally just play around in the workshop working on commissions, or just developing ideas to a finished result. I am extending my graduate collection to fit a variety of people instead of just a few so it’s a working progress. Q. If you could design jewellery for anyone in the public eye, past or present, who would it be and why? A. My mum, she’s a total babe but she’s a hard crowd to please with jewellery and the woman paid for my education and now she wants results. She likes polished metal and clean lines so obviously my jewellery isn’t her style so I’m working on a few things that I think ‘hope’ she will like.
Words by Kimberley Smith
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PROFILE
q a J s r e y r F environment really sparked my love for drawing again and inspired the direction of my work. It was during this time that I heard one of the freelance stylists needed an illustration for her business cards and I offered to do it. Everyone on the team loved them and she asked me to illustrate her fashion week trend reports for her website. It soon clicked with me that as much as I loved styling, it didn’t give me the creative freedom illustration does. With drawing you’re only limits are your imagination. Q. What was it that drew you to Blackpool to study illustration?
Jaq Fryers is quickly making her name well known with her charming illustrations and unique imaging style. We talk to her about her latest work and influences. Q. What sparked your interest in illustration and how did you get started? A. I was always interested in drawing since I was a child. I’d prefer to sit at my little desk with my sister and colour pictures rather than play with toys. I was obsessed with staying in the lines and collecting fine liner pens. I love anything visual and by the time I was at secondary school I had a vast amount of thick, glossy fashion magazines piled high in my room that my mum referred to as junk! I loved the fashion editorials in the magazines and would recreate illustrations of the models in these really opulent and exaggerated clothes. I wanted to be in these magazines and I thought the only way I could do it was to become one of these fashion designers so I went off study art at college and fashion and textile design at university. Q. You previously worked in fashion as a stylist - What prompted your change from styling to illustration? Do you feel that this has had an impact on your work?
A. My family is based in the North and after 4 years in London I was craving more home life. I studied for my BTEC Art Foundation Diploma at Blackpool & The Fylde College and really loved my time there so felt it was natural to return to my hometown. The university is smaller than other campuses but has fantastic facilities. There’s a real community feel here and there is a more hands-on approach to teaching. Q. Although you are yet to graduate, you already have very a refined & prominent illustrative style - what informed this particular style & what kind of materials & techniques do you use to achieve this? A. I love line work and was heavily influenced by fashion designer sketches where it was quick line work with no colour. My favourite artist is Aubrey Beardsley and I just love that all of his images are very dark narratives produced using only black and white lines and pattern to create tone. I use pencil to sketch out my images and then go over the line work with pen and ink. I scan the images in and clean them up in Photoshop. I produce colour, pattern and texture work separately using inks or watercolour and add them in after using Photoshop tools. Q. Is there anybody that you aspire to work/collaborate with in the future?
A. I’d love to produce my work on a large scale and have it shot as part of an editorial. I absolutely love the collaborations between photographer Tim Walker and A. Yes, after graduating I was lucky enough to be offered a set designer Shona Heath for Vogue. It would be great three-month internship at a luxury e-commerce company. to see my work on clothes. I loved the circus theme My hard work paid off and I quickly became a fashion of Miu Miu’s Spring Summer 2007 collection using assistant before becoming a stylist. Working in such a creative Liselotte Watkins illustrations printed on silk. I think I 26
read somewhere it was a last minute collaboration and they just bought her drawings she had already done. It ended up being a huge promotional tool for her with everybody seeing – and wearing – her designs. Q. How do you stay inspired, and which resources do you look to for inspiration? A. You have to get out and about and see as many different things as you can. I try to take in lots of exhibitions and spend time looking at art books. It’s important you have historical knowledge of art and design but that you look to contemporary artists working today. Industry craft fairs and events are good so you can see what other people are doing and get ideas for how you can develop your work in a way you didn’t consider before. It’s a great way to meet and network with other people in the industry too – especially as they might consider you for projects to work on in the future. Q. What has inspired you recently?
A. The news. After the London riots I was really interested in this idea of a forgotten generation and all the stereotypes surrounding the news coverage. I started making up characters and stories that illustrated these social problems. It was a step away from the fashion-based work I had been doing so it was a really different direction for me. Q. Who do you look up to in terms of illustration and image making? A. I love Julie Verhoeven’s work – her narratives are really interesting and you have to really look at her work to discover her hidden meanings. The Swedish illustrator Liselotte Watkins produces some really intricate yet simple line work portraits and is a great example of an illustrator working in different areas – editorial, fashion, home ware, branding, books, animation. Q. Tell us a bit about what you are working on at the moment? A. I’m working on illustrating a city-scape of highrise tower blocks full of characters and their hidden lives in this city. It’s going to explore stereotypes and the theme of an environment shaping a person. Hopefully it will have a really interesting narrative with lots of little stories that people can pick out and identify with.
Q. Do you ever get stuck on how to illustrate a particular subject? How do you move past that? A. Sometimes you do get a creative block and it’s really frustrating especially if the brief is a million miles away from what you are interested in drawing! I find that the best thing to do is not to beat yourself up, do something else (I took up swimming!) and ideas will naturally come to you. Draw out lots of ideas, keep playing around with them and it clicks into place. Q. What would be your top tip for someone interested in illustration? A. Draw lots and often! I thought my work would always be the same but the more I did the more it changed and I now have a style that is constantly evolving and improving. University really helps you technically so I would advise anyone to research different courses and find one that suits your needs. You’ll be encouraged to explore different medias and techniques. Illustration isn’t just about drawing with a pen – I’ve had the opportunity to turn my drawings into paper cuts, prints, animations, 3D sculptures. Think big and have fun!
Q. Our magazine is all about revolting against the mainstream, is there anything you would want to revolt against at? A. Making the decision to return to University to study a second degree meant I would be returning to study as a mature student. I faced a lot of criticism from people who couldn’t understand why I was leaving a ‘dream’ job to become a student again. With it came a lot of conversations about my age (I’ll be celebrating my 30th in February) from other students and a lot of eye rolling from friends and questions like ‘what does an illustrator even do?’. The question should be ‘what does an illustrator not do?’. Look around illustration is everywhere! I’ve certainly opened up a lot of people’s eyes! The point is a lot of people were judgmental and they didn’t understand the importance of education and training, the importance of doing something that makes you truly happy regardless of what stage you are in life and the importance of having something good to look at. Stand up for yourself. It is never to late to be what you might have been. Words by Kate Sinclair
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the age of the
SELFIE What do Insta self-portraits say about us and what do they mean for our generation, discusses Sophie Watson.
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OPINION
Selfie; by definition, a photograph taken of yourself, by yourself. Typically shot at arm’s length on a smart phone or digital camera, these images are made to be shared upon social media platforms such as Instagram, Facebook or Twitter. Easy to take (fuck tripods), filter (“ooh, do i look more tanned in Amaro or Toaster?!”), and share (“Why hasn’t anyone liked my Insta post yet?!”), selfies are a personally controlled vision of how an individual presents themselves to the internet world via a 612 pixels-squared box. Some of us delight in taking these so-called selfportraits, others revolt at the term, but with the Oxford English Dictionary hailing ‘selfie’ as the word of the year 2013, thats got to be saying something. However disposable these self portraits may be, the trend is sure to grow; Apple didn’t put forward facing cameras on iPhones for nothing. So should we be worried that nearly a third of all photographs taken by 18 to 24 year olds are selfies? Portraits of the self are not new, they have been prevalent in the art world for generations, but regular taking of them with smartphones, or even webcams, is seemingly our generations first stop for self expression and way of putting yourself on the map. In a sense, your phone acts as your own personal paparazzi, following you around and capturing you at just the right moment, with your fan base being your account followers or online friends. Its celebrity culture for the smartphone massive, and making yourself famous has been made easier than ever with social media applications in your back pocket. You can create, control and manipulate your online character through simple square images, and who is to know you are still in your pyjama bottoms beneath that duckface headshot.
We are living in the digital age, and the cult of the selfie is clear. Documenting your life, style, face and body is made simple with the phenomenon that is Instagram although having a strong grasp of your self-image is important, but can often be twisted. Don’t always be convinced of what you see, as angles, filters and clever crops are all it takes for a crap photo to swiftly look profile picture worthy. Selfies are mini snapshots into a persons world and a depiction of their own outward image, but more often than not, whats happening outside of that Insta framework is neglected. Selfies allow us to share a very concentrated version of events, and the psychological effect this has on the selfie taker, as much as the viewers, is very much food for thought. Feelings of jealousy and self-depreciation may arise when flicking through your Instagram feed (or Facebook/ Tumblr/ Twitter feeds for that matter) full of other peoples images, might they be selfies from some faraway exotic beach, mirror shots of their toned physiques in the gym or simple check-in selfies at Starbucks. Similar ideas may affect the
Its celebrity culture for the smartphone massive, and making yourself famous has been made easier than ever with social media applications in your back pocket individual when they don’t receive as many ‘likes’ or comments as they were anticipating, prompting them to delete the post and pretend they never took it in the first place. We are putting ourselves under the lens for all to see, but like IRL, we rely on other people’s judgments, appraisals and perceptions of us to form our own. Anyone in possession of a iPhone is suddenly a photographer, so don’t take selfies too seriously; they are usually all smoke and mirrors, with a fucking good filter. A friend of mine (@reneeluka) is so called “Instafamous”; she has well over 2,000 followers and receives hundreds of likes on her photos whenever she posts something new, selfie or otherwise. Her followers and friends remark upon and support her images by sharing complements and utilising the comments bar to strike up conversation, and so does she in return. These girls have formed their own friendship circles over the app, all through providing constant flurries of selfies and keeping their phones at their sides 24/7. They even get noticed on the street due to their online infamy. Renee remarks “Ive been
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shopping in cities up and down the UK and people have recognised me from Instagram. These people don’t know me personally, only from the online world”. Does this indicate the dawn of a new breed of celebrity and online elite, by means of digital self portraits? And is the line between our cyber presence and real world lives blurring? A little self-indulgency through sharing your own images never hurt anyone, as friendships can be made and your style can be informed through what you see worn by others. Like the clothes we wear on our backs, selfies give the outside world a view in on our personal fashion and style choices and the messages they say about us as people, albeit in digital 2D form. Its our chance to show off and ‘peacock’ to our online leagues of followers, wherever they are in the world. Fashion is a huge thing on Instagram; any opportunity to show off your latest purchases, or even the store carrier bag, and how you wear them becomes a proud moment, despite how penniless your bank balance says you are. Selfies also enable us to show how we are feeling at a particular moment, what we are up to and where, and sometimes who we are with (shared selfies are acceptable too). Acting as a visual diary entry, no matter how many you take or how often, they have become an intrinsic part of our generation and how we interact with our peers; telling the world that we are here and this is what we look like. Having pride in who you are, self-confidence and a willingness to poke fun at yourself are important; in most occasions, selfies are meant to be lighthearted and playful, with a high injection of self-irony. We all know taking a simple snap of yourself is a pretty cheesy concept (*deletes Myspace account circa 2006*), but if you’re not on the selfie bandwagon, you can kinda feel a little left out. Its a jungle out there on the net, and you’ve got to make yourself present, and selfies are the quickest way to do so, no matter how hyper-realistic they may be. The nature of selfies revolve around the individual; in taking and sharing that photograph, you’ve naturally become the model, photographer and the publisher. You are your own brand; so get snapping, as no one can take your selfie for you.
Don’t be scared to wear your favourite pieces all at once, picking out your best glad rags from your closet and throwing them together. Pops of colour, clashing prints and tantalizing textures can create the most unexpected ensembles.
e t as
P t d u n a C
Photographer KATE SINCLAIR Stylist SOPHIE WATSON Art Director JASMINE PALMER
Pink angora knit sweater J.Crew Holographic necklace & leopard print coat both from Topshop
Cobalt blue sweater Topshop Pink fur collar ASOS Hair clips Accsessorize Opposite page: Banana leaf silk top Topshop Grey marabou collar ASOS White coat Chloe Rose gold watch Michael Kors
Liliac sweater Urban Outfitters Pink fur collar ASOS Necklace Topshop Gingham blazer Miu Miu earring models own Opposite page: Suba dress & Other Stories Pink coat Urban Outfitters Floral clutch Marc by Marc Jacobs Pink croc envelope clutch ASOS
Pink Silk shirt ZARA Paisley dress Topshop Hair clip Accsessorize Navy fur stole Vintage
Pale pink leather top Topshop Fur collar ASOS Pink sequin top Louise Gray Checkerboard trousers Kenzo Opposite Page: Fuchsia coat Celine Marabou collar & cream fur collar both ASOS Stripe top Topshop Lilac croc handbag Miu Miu Emerald necklace by & Other Stories.
n r e t t a P
THE POWER OF
Interview Youth and Revolt meet the Award winning creative organisation, PATTERNITY.
Focusing on the exploration and application of pattern, PATTERNITY is “driven by the certainty that pattern is everywhere, form the mundane to the magnificent”. The creative duo, Anna and Grace, challenge the way in which we see pattern everyday, entice innovation and develop our awareness of pattern around us. Their list of collaborations is something to be proud of, with some of the industries most creative minds, The V&A, Nike and Celine featuring on it. Browsing through their stunning archive of imagery allows us to catch a glimpse into the amazing patterned world in which we live in. PATTERNITY is truly a unique and inspiring organisation. I speak with Co Founder, Anna Murray to talk about the POWER OF PATTERN. How would you best describe what PATTERNITY is all about? PATTERNITY is a creative organisation driven by the certainty that pattern is everywhere. The work we do is grounded by the belief that a shared awareness of pattern has the power to positively engage us with our environment and each other. The PATTERNITY research archive, design studio and educational events use pattern as a vehicle to blur boundaries and to tell important stories about the world in which we live. We specialise in pattern inspiration, exploration and innovation.
So how did PATTERNITY begin? What inspired you to focus on purely pattern? PATTERNITY has evolved since we first set up the blog 2009. Grace and I had a firm idea that we wanted to change the perception of pattern so a simple blog was the most accessible way to stamp our authority and grow a (now 500,000 strong) community - which is at the heart of everything we do. In 2011 we launched the design studio, where all the research we had amassed combined with our united skills and mounting industry interest. The next step was working on events that took the philopshy of pattern exploration and understanding into the real world – working with the likes of Nike, The V&A and the BBC.
Other than physical patterns, how else do you think patterns influence us in our daily lives? Through noticing more – in our case though being more aware of life’s pattern – we believe we can become more mindful of the bigger picture and feel more connected to the greater whole. Recently we’ve been looking into the unseen patterns that surround us. This has brought about some very interesting findings into the notion of ‘patterns of the mind’. As human beings we can get ‘stuck’ into very negative ways of thinking, Becoming more aware of these ‘Bad patterns’ can help us to work on replacing them with more positive ones. Good patterns of thought and behaviour encourage more healthy ways of being in the world - surely the most enduring of excellent patterns to discover!
What excites you about being in London?
At the heart of all our projects lies the belief that a shared awareness of our environment and each other can have powerful and positive results. At PATTERNITY we use the omnipresence of pattern as a tool to encourage people to simply ‘notice more’ thus changing the way people see and engage with the world around them. As a result we hope to inspire a healthy curiosity and a further sense of wellbeing as we look at the world through a more mindful lens.
London is such an exciting place to be at the moment, there is a real feeling of positive change as people begin (whether of their own accord or not) to reevaluate not only what is important but also how to harness creativity and embrace technology to bring about more positive wide reaching effects. There feels to be an increased focus on understanding our environment and our effect on it. Crucially, there is also an emphasis on engaging and investing in young people now to better our future collectively.
Whats your favorite kind of pattern?
“We don’t claim to have invented pattern we have just revisited it in an engaging and relevant way through our unique curation and approach”
When we first began PATTERNITY we were both very drawn to bold geometric patterns and our research was very architectural and design based. As time has gone and our research has gone far deeper and we’re getting more and more excited by natural patterns, looking to formations in nature and science that delve far beneath the surface of life. The most incredible patterns exist when you being to examine things up close or even very far away - to see how and why forms actually function the way they do. Nature is really ultimate engineer – all this research drives our product and pattern designs.
Do patterns filter into your own personal style? As ‘cult pattern specialists’ people always expect us to be dressed head to toe in print and pattern – however for us personally PATTERNITY first and foremost is about a way of thinking and being in the world – the philosophy of pattern opposed to purely the aesthetic. Although (patterned) clothing is very important extension of our brand and our core values, we personally often
“The most incredible patterns exist when you being to examine things up close or even very far away” wear head to toe black and feel very comfortable in doing so as for us what we say and do and the message our work spreads is much more important to us than what we wear.
Our head Patternity sustainability advisor Vicky Murray summed it up perfectly the other day ‘When you have one eye on the future, you demand a lot more from today’.
Our magazine is all about tearing out the rule book and revolting against the mainstream, Is there anything are you revolting against? We live in a world at a point in time that is so cluttered and saturated with ‘stuff ’ that life can often seem overwhelming and irrelevant. I think one of the things that sets PATTERNITY apart is our unique approach to something that already exists and on a very human and honest level. We don’t claim to have invented pattern we have just revisited it in an engaging and relevant way through our unique curation and approach. At PATTERNITY we never put a pattern onto anything without first asking several key questions – does this pattern tell something interesting or important about the world in which we live beyond the surface? Does this pattern encourage a more positive connection to the world around us? Does this pattern draw attention to the bigger picture? All the work we do is heavily considered, each project and product has a meaning beneath the surface.
Visit PATTERNITY at www.patternity.org. Words by Aoife Finegan
URBAN CREATURES
Photographer AOIFE FINEGAN Stylist KATE SINCLAIR Styling Assistant MOLLY BRIDGER Hair & MUA SOPHIE WATSON
Rebel in the suburbs. Don’t let your surroundings dictate what you wear. With strong silhouettes and a deep colour palette of emerald green and navy, with layering of dense tartans and check, these are the Urban Creatures.
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Brieuc wears: Coat Agnes B Jumper YSL Homme Hat Paul Smith Julia wears: Jumper Celine 45
Brieuc wears: Coat & jacket Burberry Cable knit jumper Stone Island Polo neck Topman Jeans Diesel Shoes Church’s Ring Alexander McQueen Julia wears: Coat Stella McCartney Polo neck Zara Belt Stylist’s own Skirt American Apparel Shoes Vagabond
Brieuc wears: Coat Burberry Jumper Topman Scarf Aquascutum Jeans Levi’s
Brieuc wears: Coat Burberry Jumper Topman Scarf Aquascutum Jeans Levi’s Julia wears: Jumper J. Brand Skirt Topshop Unique Necklace & Other Stories Ring Astley Clarke
Brieuc wears: Coat Givenchy Jumper Uniqlo
Brieuc wears: Coat Vintage Jumper Pringle of Scotland Julia wears: Knitted Vest ACNE PVC Jacket Alexander Wang Shirt Saint Laurent Paris
Julia wears: Leather Jacket ACNE Mesh top J.W. Anderson Skirt 3.1 Philip Lim
Brieuc wears: Coat Brioni T-shirt Fred Perry Julia wears: As before
Brieuc wears: Polo neck Topman Hat Paul Smith
Julia wears: Dress Moschino
Brieuc wears: Coat Agnes B Jumper YSL Homme Jeans Levi’s Julia wears: Coat Whistles Jumper Celine Skirt Filippa K
Julia wears: Dress All Saints Jackets word round waist Vivienne Westwood Ring Astley Clarke
Brieuc wears: Coat Givenchy Polo neck Topman Jeans Diesel Shoes Church’s Julia wears: Leather Jacket Whistles Scarf Aquascutumn Skirt D&G Shoes Vagabond
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A RIGHT TO CREATE
SQUATTING LAWS AND THE REPRESSION OF A CREATIVE GENERATION.
Squatting; it’s a controversial subject. Making good use of an otherwise abandoned building, or a scroungers attempt to avoid financial responsibilities? Either way, as of the 1st September last year, squatting in a residential property became a criminal offence, punishable to up to six months in prison or a hefty fine of £5000. But what effect does this law have on our creative industries? 63
A RIGHT TO CREATE - SQUATTING LAWS AND THE REPRESSION OF A GENERATION
T
he media likes to reel out the same stories when squatting comes into play. We are fed the idea that squatting is a problem caused by those too lazy to pay their council taxes, scruffy hippy looking types, claiming squatters rights on family homes, and of course, this does happen. In this case, you would undoubtedly have a right to be mightily pissed off. However, squatting can, and has been used in a more intelligent, productive way, by groups of young creatives, looking for rent free living whilst they carve out their way into becoming independent artists, using the abandoned property as a work and living environment which they can share with like-minded people. In this case, should squatting really be demonised? The creative industries have been laced with artists who have used squats in the beginning years of their profession, allowing them to live the artistic bohemian lifestyle which inspires their work, whilst developing their craft. The Warren Street squats of the late 70’s and early 80’s were an infamous haunt for fashion and art students at the nearby Central Saint Martins, who went on to shape the new romantic movement of the time. The Warren Street squats bought together the most creative, flamboyant characters of London, in an intense environment of living, creating and partying together, which went on to create a movement embedded in pop culture history; and quite a few names came out of that movement too. Boy George, one of the most notable figures of the 80’s spent his time before Culture Club squatting, spending his days creating extravagant outfits with fellow squatters before heading to the local Blitz Club. Industry figures such as milliner Stephen Jones, writer, DJ and socialite Princess Julia and stylist Kim Bowen, alongside other recognised industry creatives, all squatted together during this time. Who’d of thought? A lifestyle of peacocking, partying and squatting could develop into a well-paid, established career? Well, we must all start somewhere, and for creatives, squatting is the perfect solution. The squatting culture of this time period undoubtedly played a large part in helping to develop and bring together the creatives which shaped the new romantic movement. It allowed for a base for these creatives to gather together, exchange ideas and work towards
something they are passionate about; this may have been simply out-dressing each other, but it carved a career for many of those involved in the movement
The British music industry is one with a deep history of roughing it with squat living. The
likes of The Clash and The Sex Pistols followed the punk subcultures anti-establishment style by setting camp in squats, before establishing their careers. Rock legends such as Eric Clapton, Sting and Annie Lennox , before making their millions through their success within the music industry, all lived in squats, living as struggling artists, producing and creating their music in a bid to start their careers. However, without the option of free living through squats, would we have these artists today? Would Eric Clapton be in a middle management position doing admin shit? Annie Lennox; supermarket check out girl? As well as living in squats, musicians have used abandoned buildings as a free music venues to showcase their work to new audiences. The likes of The Libertines would throw gigs at the squats they inhabited, in the early stages of their career. Without this use of free self promotion and fan building, would The Libertines ever have created the success they had as a band? In the early 2000’s, a new creative community forged through the squatting scene, similar to that of the New Romantics of the early 80’s. !WOWOW!, an art collective, based in an abandoned department store building, spreading across four floors of the building, became residency to local Camberwell art students and graduates, all with the same passion to live and work with inspirational and creative people. The large space was used to bring together a creative network, where the space was used as a studio and exhibition space, as well as throwing regular warehouse parties. The success of the !WOWOW! collective can be seen in those who took residency in the building; key industry names such as designer Gareth Pugh, stylist Katie Shillingford and artist and photographer Matthew Stone, who have all gone on to create great success in the fashion industry. The crop of industry figures who had once, in the early stages of their career, lived and created in squats, speak miles for the success of squats as a creative breeding ground. designer who was also part of the !WOWOW! collective said of the experience:
"It was a perfect collaboration of amazingly passionate people with skills that complimented each others talents. Fashion designers had a stylist, artists had an exhibition to show in; photographers had subjects, musicians had audiences… we created everything we needed in our world ourselves." - Tara Grant 64
FEATURE
Collaboration and exhibition of work are two key aspects of making it within the creative field; squatting is a invaluable experience which allows for the two, and ultimately a career starter for these artists, which further education doesn’t always offer. “!WOWOW! was my further education,” Tara Grant states, “the MA I never felt I needed because of it.”.
Squatting can almost act as an alternative, post graduate pathway for artists, questionably more relevant than further education, and undoubtedly more rewarding than throwing yourself into a career working for big corporations, where your creative ideas are often unwanted, and left to wilt away. Having this environment to collaborate and create in allow for these artists to pave their own career as independent artists, without having the worry of paying rent. Without this option, many artists today may feel this is not an option they can afford to take, and will end up in menial careers where their talents are lost and left unshared to the world. Imagine if Gareth Pugh was never part of the !WOWOW! collective. Would we have one of Britian’s greatest design talents showcasing in Paris today? Possibly not. Squatting abandoned buildings has increasingly become the answer for many artists in London today. With increase in rental prices in London, for an independent, starting up artist to be able to afford housing, before adding the cost of a studio space on top of this, has become near enough impossible. This has seen a growth in Art Squats; which sees the unused spaces of abandoned buildings being used as studio and exhibition space for their work. Alongside offering the opportunity of a rent free studio, it allows for further creative
strength. And those contacts that you made within those couple of years you spent in that damp squat with no electricity together? They can go a long way years down the line, when you fancy collaborating again or need a helping hand. With an estimated 900,000 empty buildings in England alone, these spaces are being left to deteriorate and waste away, surely these buildings can be put to better use? An artist needing a studio exhibition space at least, a homeless person needing a roof over their head at most. A new law criminalising this strips any opportunity of this. Squatting allows for a breeding ground of artists to explore creative freedom, free from the restraints of education and full time employment. By criminalising squatting, are we repressing a generation of new creatives? Threatening those who do squat with the prospect of being imprisoned will undoubtedly make young creatives think twice about using squats, for both living and working purposes. The benefits of living and working in these environments, with other like-minded and creative people offer such opportunities; it makes you question about the next generation of creatives. With an impressive alumni of artists, fashion industry figures and musicians graduating from the school of squatting, it is hard to argue against the impact that this alternative lifestyle and time of experimentation can have on creatives. Without these environments to help young creatives craft their talents and progress as independent artists, could we ultimately see a decline in the next generation of creatives?
These abandoned buildings also offer easy access to a gallery space to display their work; a space which is lost, and hard to get back, after the graduate showcase. expression from these artists, without size and space restrictions. Installation artists can create to any size, painters large scale canvas’s to work from, photographers a studio, performance artists and musicians a performance space.
Words By Kimberley Smith
In the early 2000’s, Peckham was central to the art squat scene, with graduates from nearby art colleges Goldsmiths and Camberwell using these art squats as almost a rite of passage for new artists recently graduated. Once the college art studios are taken away from you, art squats often become the only option for new artists to be able to continue to create and exhibit their work. In a capital with increasingly expensive rental and property prices, these new artists may not be able to develop their careers further, without the opportunities of rent free, communal artist living which squats offer. Whilst art squats allow for a financial solution to the development of their careers, the anarchic, rebellious and bohemian lifestyle of living on societies fringes allow for a creative breeding ground for inspiration and experimentation. Being surrounded by other like-minded people allow for a safe haven for self-expression to explore the role of an artist, free of judgement and only encouragement for you to create the most mind-fuck artwork you can. It allows for the type of self expression which helped form subcultural movements such as punk and new romantics, living and breathing your creative scene, not just living it vicariously through music and fashion choices. When these creative minds come together, they can create ground breaking stuff. Early Alternative Miss World’s were curated and held in squats in East London during the early 80s. !WOWOW!’s warehouse parties and art performances marked a generation of creatives. Punk and New Romantic squatters bought together a whole creative scene which influenced music, fashion, art and British pop culture. What would our next generation of creative squatters bring? Squatting is also beneficial in the way of being able to live and work alongside other creatives. It offers a little black book of contacts already eager to collaborate with you; people who are supportive of developing each other as artists, keen to create work which will together establish you both within your chosen industries. Creative industries are a tough industry to crack, if you can do it together, that’s double the
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YOU’VE GOT YOUR MOTHER IN A
WHIRL
SHES NOT SURE IF YOU’RE A BOY OR A
stanfirst
GIRL What should men wear? Dare to bare in skirts and dresses. Be Bold, Be Brash, Be Different.
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photography by MOLLY BRIDGER styling by KIMBERLEY SMITH
photographer MOLLIE BRIDGER stylists KIMBERLEY SMITH & JASMINE PALMER
JASMINE PALMER
Skirt JW Anderson Socks Urban Outfitters Brace and boots Stylist’s own 68
Crop top and belt Topshop Trousers Raf Simons Boots Stylist’s own 69
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Marabou jacket Celine Culottes pants J.W Anderson Belt Topshop
Fishnet top Ashish Skirt Raf Simons
Metallic slip dress Blitz Vintage
Trousers Raf Simons Belt Topshop 73
Jersey tee American Apparel
Leather pencil skirt Rokit Vintage Socks Urban Outfitters Boots Stylist’s own 74
Black faux fur coat Topshop 75
Crop top American Apparel Skirt Blitz Vintage Belt Topshop 76
Metallic slip dress Blitz Vintage 77
Shearling coat Brioni Skirt J.W Anderson Boots Stylist’s own 78
Marabou jacket Celine
Model Patrick @ Lenis Hair and make-up Jasmine Palmer 79
are you
MAN ENOUGH to be woman?
Words by Kimberley Smith and Molly Bridger
y t i n i l u c s a M f o h t y The M
For decades woman have pioneered the female suit in a statement of gender equality. Yves Saint took menswear silhouettes and slimmed them down to fit a feminine shape, establishing his signature style, whilst Coco Chanel adapted the men’s suits she was surrounded in; changing a generation of womanswear dress codes. Since, androgynous fashion for woman has fed into the mass market, with celebrities such as Alexa Chung and Rihanna authenticating a style of dress beyond prejudice and developing a breed of young people, eager to follow the trend. It is interesting to note, on the contrary, that woman’s fashion incorporated within the menswear industry is still regarded as unusual, and unworn by the mainstream. A crop of menswear designers however are working to push feminine silhouettes into menswear fashion; the likes of J.W. Anderson and Raf Simons, in their spring summer 2014 collections, have showed a promising start to a new breed of men’s fashion. But why, when women can dress in men’s styles without prejudice, are men only now exploring femininity without restriction?
“MASCULINITY, LIKE FEMININITY IS CULTURALLY AND HISTORICALLY VARIABLE” In todays media dominated society, we have a clouded judgment of what it means to be masculine, steaming from years of media portrayal and propaganda, the ideals of how men should dress have been repressed. Men’s fashion however hasn’t always been the masculine image we perceive it to be. Masculine styles of the 15th Century saw men wearing girdles to emphasise their waist, and skirt like bottoms with stockings, to display shapely legs, in an effort to portray a well built physique. Men, in a complete contrast to today, often wore more extravagant clothing than their wives, to impress and show off their wealth. Similarly, the display of wealth through flamboyant clothing was most notable within the French Aristocracy. Named Macaroni’s at the time, these men used excessive amounts of make-up alongside large white wigs, to portray their aristocratic status amongst society. Imagine a society today, where men wore make-up to portray their wealth? It isn’t too dissimilar to what we see today, of American rappers collecting their chains, in a display of the money they earn. The Macaroni wore generally perceived feminine details such as ribbons, lace and ruffles to adorn their pastel coloured garments, with heavily decorated, dainty heels. Heels, another piece we didn’t expect to be associated with the male sex. Likewise, heels, despite their feminine connotation, became a symbol of wealth and place in society during the reign of Louis XIV, who became a key wearer of the shoe to give him a masculine stature to his very unfortunate small frame. Heels were first worn by Persian male horseback riders, to assist in balance during battle, becoming a representation of war and masculinity. The thought of men wearing heels today to display their masculinity could be quite questionable. The early part of the 20th century saw a dry patch in men’s fashion; an era troubled with two world wars and the great depression. That was until the rebellious new generation of the swinging 60’s; a generation keen to separate themselves from their conformist parents. The buzz of Carnaby Street’s boutique culture in the 60’s, developed for the first time a unisex consumer market, mirroring the rise of gender equality at the time. Boutique owners such as Tommy Nutter popularised flamboyant male suits, in an array of fabrics, colours and patterns which, by society’s standards, should not be worn by man. These suits were seen on the likes of Mick Jagger, marking the Peacock Revolution of flamboyant and fashion consciousness men. The late 60’s saw the emergence of the hippie culture, and men growing their hair long suddenly became all the rage, much to the disgruntlement of the older and more conservative generations. Unisex garments such as the kaftan and flared trousers also became popular, allowing for blurred lines between gender, for a generation keen to create new ideas of sexuality.
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‘YOU COULD WEAR ANYTHING YOU WANTED, FROM A ROBE TO A CAPE... THIS NEW ANDROGYNOUS LOOK MADE THE STRAIGHTS PARTICULARLY UPSET’ A mover and shaker of transgender subculture was born within the persona of Ziggy Stardust. Bowie created a genderless, inhuman character, to push the boundaries of a gender restrictive society. Bowie changed history when he came into every living room in the country, his performance of Starman on Top of the Pops in 1972, introducing the question of gender through dress, make up and his performance.
FEATURE Bowie went on to become a major influence of the musical era of Glam Rock, which saw men back in heels, wearing glittery platform shoes, colourful and tight clothing in metallic and leather, and use of make up, in a effort to upstage each other, in the most theatrical and shocking way. Glam Rock allowed a generation of drag performers, with the musical film The Rocky Horror Picture Show showcasing the iconic Dr Frank Furter in provocative woman’s lingerie and full make-up, and drag artists such as Lindsay Kemp tearing up the rule book of ideas of traditional masculinity. Bowie ethos of “who could I be tomorrow?” led the way for disposable character fashion, of being who you want to be, experimenting with fashion and not being tied down to gender constrictions. Bowie’s influence continued into the early 80’s through the New Romantic movement. Nightclubs such as The Blitz and Voodoo created competition among art students to draw as much attention to themselves as possible through theatrical styles, to allow entrance to the clubs, heavily guarded by the equally flamboyant Steve Strange. Both sexes dressed in counter-sexual clothing; men and women painted their faces and created costumes in order to make a character, again, producing a non-gender personality. Boy George made this theme mainstream, through his debut with culture club, confusing yet winning over mainstream audiences, with hundreds of teenage girls wanting to recreate his look. The idea of transgender was confirmed through the Buffalo Movement, and the way it sat within publications such as The Face, i-D and Arena Homme. The Buffalo Movement, started by Ray Petri dipped into youth culture and borrowed inspiration from punks, rude boys and new romantics. These publications used feminine looking male models, to explore questions of masculinity and defined the idea that the “fashion was there to enable you to express yourself.” – Stephen Jones.
‘BUFFALO WAS ANDDROGYNOUS IN MANY WAYS... WOMAN WERENT WOMAN AND MEN WERENT MEN... NO-ONE HAD DONE IT BEFORE’
The 21st century has seen a deterioration of men exploring womenswear fashion; as a generation, we haven’t really explored at all. We’ve seen a decade of menswear ruled by the hipster fashion of rolled up skinny jeans, ‘quirky’ Grandad jumpers, and the overkill of chinos within the mass market. It has only been within the last couple of years that the emergence of men in skirts have started to appear on street style blogs and offered as alternative high fashion for men, popularised by the likes of Marc Jacobs. The emergence of young menswear designers seem keen to stand out among a sea of menswear, churning out the same suits season after season. Meadham Kirchhoff, with their distinct references towards the visual styles of Courtney Love and the kinderwhore era, allowed this to reflect within their menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2013. Male models wore their hair long, dip dyed on the ends in bright colours, teased into small plaits, whilst hands were bled in colours of pink and blue. The collection offered a contrast against masculine styles of sportwear shorts and trainers, alongside brightly colour saris and delicate floral blouses, traditionally considered as feminine styles. One male model wears the words ‘Feminine by Proxy’ on his forehead; perhaps Meadham Kirchhoff are trying to tell us how males can act feminine, on behalf of a female population increasingly defeminising. Could we see a society where the dress codes for males and female switch over? If J.W Anderson had anything to do with it, perhaps we would. The brand is one determined to break the constraints of men and womenswear. Each season we are offered a more androgynous womenswear collection, challenging traditional styles of over-decorated, over-exposed womenswear; and we see the reverse happen for menswear. J.W Anderson’s past two collections have shook Mens Fashion Week at its core, offering collections which distort and redefine the idea of menswear, looking at typically feminine sillhouttes such as the mini skirt and halter neck tops, and putting it on the male form. J.W Anderson isn’t trying to put men in womenswear; he’s recreating it, our idea of the menswear silhouette, with great conviction. J.W Anderson’s past collaboration with Topshop, which offered an androgynous womenswear collection, which could easily be translated into menswear, may just see his vision create impact on the mainstream. Where one designer goes, the other follows. Raf Simmons displayed a similarly androgynous Spring/Summer 2014 menswear collection. The collection featured male models in shift dresses, and tops tucked into high waisted mini skirts, all in a way of reconstructing the menswear sillhoutte, in a wearable way for the modern man. It’s not only in high fashion do we see the blending of lines between masculine and feminine fashion. The Garden, a musical duo consisting of twin brothers, have become Hedi Slimane’s latest inspiration, having walked for Yves Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2013 Menswear show. They came to prominence through their androgynous style, often incorporating womenswear garments, such as cop tops and mom jeans, alongside their shoulder length hair and petite, feminine stature. “Wearing women’s clothing is just like wearing men’s clothing; I just find what I like.” Fletcher, one half of The Garden says regarding wearing women’s clothing. “But I am open to anything. I just like the way they look on me.” We also see androgyny happening within Hollywood circles; something quite ground breaking within an industry so caught up with the perfect image of the man and woman. Ezra Miller, who has featured in such films such as Perks of Being a Wallflower and We Need To Talk About Kevin, has been making waves in the fashion industry, with his feminine facial features and shoulder length, thick black hair, having starred in Prada’s Autumn/Winter 2013 Menswear collection campaign. Paper Magazine used his androgynous style to their benefit, where he wore exclusively womenswear for the shoot, which featured on the front cover of their September 2012 issue.
“BELONGING TO A NEW GENERATION OF ACTORS NOT AFRAID TO EMBRACE, EXPLOIT AND ENTERTAIN QUEER AUDIENCES; HE IS ALSO A GENERATION OF YOUNG PEOPLE ESCHEWING LABELS AND BLURRING IDENTITY LINES TO SUIT THEIR OWN NEEDS” Ezra Miller’s androgynous style, artistic drive, charismatic nature and non-refined sexuality echoes that of a young David Bowie, unafraid to blur the lines between masculinity and femininity, and appear as a unisex character; an attitude which has been missing for a couple of decades within creative in the public eye; could Ezra Miller by our generations Bowie? Links have certainly been made; Ezra Miller featured on the front cover and within an editorial for AnOther Man’s Spring/Summer 2013’s issue, portraying an uncanny resemblance to 70’s David Bowie in one image, alongside another reference to Kurt Cobain; another male musician, unafraid to wear a dress or two. Ezra Miller is certainly an exciting figure within our generation of shifters and shakers; one who is at the forefront of challenging perceptions of the male image, one who will hopefully shift our generation’s ideas of the male aesthetic.
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Over the decades, we have seen generations of males looking to challenge perceptions of men’s dress. However, why is it that today, even in the 21st century, the idea of men wearing women’s clothing is still associated with drag, and greeted with reactions of shock and laughter, whilst women can wear menswear, free of prejudice? Female social commentators argue that it is because society see men wearing womenswear as being derogative; social commentator Lauren O suggests;
‘IT’S EASIER FOR SOCIETY TO ACCEPT WOMAN TAKING ON MENS ROLES THAN IT IS FOR MEN TO TAKE ON WOMANS ROLES BECAUSE WOMAN ARE SEEN AS INFERIOR’
expression; it allows the freedom for the person to be whoever they wish to be, and this is not something which we, as a society, should not restrict for men. Men, we urge you to have the courage to wear whatever you please, whether that be jeans and converse, or a baby doll dress. Display who you are through your fashion choices, and fight back against a society which wants to restrain the way you dress, based on old fashion conventions of male dress codes and gender inequality. Be part of a new generation of men willing to express their creativity, and rebel against a society who accepts to conform. Create the next big uproar of men unafraid to break the barriers of what menswear should be.
Are
you
man
“A woman wanting to take on men’s roles seems less offensive, because, the reasoning goes, who wouldn’t want to be a member of the superior sex? A man wanting to take on women’s roles seem more offensive because what man would ever want to degrade himself like that?” Madonna made a similar statement within her 2001 single What It Feels Like For A Girl; “Girls can wear jeans and cut their hair short, wear shirts and boots, cause its ok to be a boy. But for a girl to look like a boy is degrading. Cause you think that being a girl is degrading.” It certainly seems to be a familiar debate cropping up around the subject. Perhaps there is an element of truth within this though? Only in April of this year have we seen the conviction of a criminal in Iran, charged against his crimes with the court ordering the male to walk down the street in women’s clothing, in an attempt to humiliate him. The court ordered him to walk in public in a red tchador, a traditional piece of women’s clothing. Kurdish men of Iran have protested against this court order, creating a facebook campaign which has seen hundreds of Kurdish men adopt and be photographed in traditional female Kurdish clothing, as part of the ‘Kurd Men For Equality’ campaign. The campaign against the sexist nature of the sentence carries the tagline “Being a woman is not a way for humiliation or punishment.” Whilst it is promising to see so many Kurdish men, from a variety of ages, protest together to express anger towards the sexist sentence, it is also very worrying that, even today, the idea of looking like or being a women can be considered humiliating, by those in high power and considered to be intellectuals. Woman, undoubtedly have more freedom to express themselves within fashion. There are plenty of garments which can be completely ruled out for men; mini skirts, crop tops, dresses, alongside an array of colours which may seem inappropriate for a man to wear, fabrics to lustrous and embellishment to eye catching and make-up to noticeable. All, if challenged to be worn, can be meet with smirky remarks and mockery, whilst women, have the freedom to explore all these styles, and dip into men’s fashion too, without judgment. But why is this? Social Commentator and LBGT writer Greta Christina argues its “Because woman are seen by our society as ornamental; we are valued for our looks more than our accomplishments.” Women as a gender are expected to want to adorn themselves, whilst men are seen as more than ornaments within society; they are not there to be looked at, but instead to use their brains, make decisions and being physically strong. For a man to want to adorn himself in the same way a women does, its seen as degrading for the man, as he is allowing himself to be judged only by his appearance and not his abilities, therefore a man should not wear clothing which attracts too much attention, as it puts too much focus upon his appearance, taking away his masculinity and degrading him in a gender class below his own. Whilst a hint of shallowness lies within the field of fashion; an industry run on making people look beautiful on the outside only, without focus upon the persons accomplishments and abilities, a lot can be said about the way we can use fashion to form our identity. Fashion can be used as a tool of self 82
enough?
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Style yourself with no inhibitions and take the paint, glue, scissors and thread into your own hands. Cut it, stick it, paint it and tear it up; the rules are yours to break.
Leather jacket Claire Barrow
Denim dungarees Rokit Vintage Painted socks Stylist’s own
White ankle boots Maison Martin Margiela
Opposite page: Leather jacket Claire Barrow White t-shirt Topman
Denim jacket with fur lining Marques Almeida Painted denim jeans Ashish Opposite page: White crop top Urban Outfitters
Black knit jumper Pringle of Scotland Painted jeans Ashish Painted socks Stylist’s own White ankle boots Maison Martin Margiela Opposite page: Oversized denim shirt Rokit Vintage White t-shirt Topman Denim jeans Urban Outfitters
Baseball tee Nike Opposite page: Black mesh bra American Apparel Silver jeans Ashish
Paper t-shirt Stylist’s own Black and blue jeans Levis Opposite page: Black mesh bra American Apparel Silver jeans Ashish
Black playsuit with flower detail Prada Opposite page: White t-shirt Topman Black jeans Urban Outfitters
Leather jacket Claire Barrow
White t-shirt Topman
Denim trousers Urban Outfitters
Shoes Vans
Opposite page: Black mesh bra Urban Outfitters Denim dungarees Rokit Vintage
e M f o y m r A
Revolting against the everyday glamour, play with your identity and secret inhibitions with kooky makeup and crops of colour
Photographer MOLLY BRIDGER Hair & Make up JASMINE PALMER
Wigs Chanel Lips NARS Eyebrows Illmasqua
Wig Chanel Lips MAC Cosmeticss
Wig Chanel Lips and Eyebrow Illmasqua
Wig Chanel Eyebrows Illmasqu
Lips Nars
s n o s r e P g n u o Y A e d i u G
DUBLIN
Dublin youthful
is a , vibrant city with an abundance of history. Its known for its beautifully preserved castles, magnificent churches, atmospheric pubs as well as the friendly people, and of course the joyful Craic. As well as exploring Dublin’s fantastic cultural history, there is a new emerging scene that has not been put into your tourists books just yet. Cuisines from around the world, club nights showcasing new sounds and captivating markets all depict the new Dublin. So walk down that side street, turn away from those tourist groups and be your own guide to finding the new exciting side of Dublin
How to get around Dublin is notorious for its terrible traffic during rush hour and on the busy weekends, however it is easily accessible by using its
Iveagh Gardens. Its a very peaceful get away from the busy
streets of the city centre and a perfect place to relax with a cup of coffee, just remember to bring your gloves! Dublin has some great muesems dotted around the city. The Chester Beatty
public transport. The Dart and Dublin Bus services run quite frequently throughout the day, timetables stop just before 12am on the weekdays, but on Fridays and Saturdays there are Night Buses that run through the night. Although Dublin doesn’t have an underground system to get you from place to place, the city is small enough to see all the sites on your feet. Walking from one side of the city centre to the other only takes about 20minutes and you can soak in all of Dublin’s beautiful sites on the way.
The Irish Museum of Modern Art is housed on the grounds of Kilmainham Hospital with its beautiful gardens surrounding the building. IMMA exhibits a massive range and style of contemporary art allowing you get lost in its grand building for hours.
If general exercise isn’t your thing Dublin has its own tram service
Right in the heart of the city centre is The Ha’penny Flea
called The Luas. Translated into English as “speed”, the name may be slightly misleading as its maximum speed is hardly up there with the TGV. The Luas has 2 lines that run from different sides of the city suburbs into the centre. Single tickets cost a max of €2.80, however if your ballsy enough you can hope on and off for free....as long as you don’t get caught! Dublin also has its own version of the Barclays Bikes, also known
as Dublin Bikes, similar to London, the first 30 minutes of your journey is free and after that you begin to pay a fee. A 3 day ticket is €2 and can be purchased at the docking station, however a long term hire must be purchased online at www.dublinbikes.ie Any more information on fairs or how to get around you can log onto http://www.dublin.ie/transport/home.htm.
Library, The Hugh Lane Gallery and The Gallery of Photography are just some of many, however if you choose to go to one, IMMA is definitely on the top of the list.
Market in the Grand Social which is on from 12pm-6pm. Its free admission and has a mash of stalls ranging from vintage clothes, vinyl records, crafts, books and retro furniture, as well as local designers selling their handmade jewellery and art. Each week is different with them rotating the stallholders, it’s a great atmosphere, and you can kick back with a pint while enjoying the old vinyl music that is played through the venue. Anoter great market and one of irelands great landmarks is
Georges Street Arcade. The building itself is absolutely stunning pop in for a coffee, view some of irelands up and coming artists, or even get your nipple pierced for a fiver the quaint little shops and stalls inside ooze old irish culture. Unfortunately there are few clothing shops in Dublin that you can’t already find in the UK, however the city has some great treasures when it comes to vintage shopping. Most are well hidden down cobbled stoned streets of Temple Bar., Golly Gosh is one of these gems. Up a set of creaky stairs, leads you to a cute two story shop selling clothes from the 1920s to the 1990s and all for
a decent enough price. Another great find is 9 Crow Street, situated on Lower Ormond Quay, this vintage store is one of the best places to shop in Dublin. Their stunning little shop has just recently reopened its doors in a new location. When it comes to their garments they hand pick each item to ensure great quality, you can also shop with them online to which they deliver worldwide. If you’d rather shop for some Grana Padano than a great pair of
Places to go, Things to see London is great for its inner city greenery, which is one thing that Dublin is seriously lacking in. However just off the beaten track
there is a gorgeous public garden on Hatch Street Upper called The
shoes, Fallon and Byrne is food heaven. Although eating in the restaurant or testing out the wines in the cellar (la de dah!) will have your reaching into your pockets, their upmarket food hall is definitely worth a visit. Filled with gorgeous smells of fresh fruit, aromatic coffee and cheeses Fallon and Byrne stocks food from around the globe and is truly a foodies heaven. An alternative to a night on the tear, you could head to The 108
Laughter Lounge on Eden Quay. Its one of Ireland’s great
comedy clubs, hosting some of the city’s funniest and wittiest its a great night to spend with friends. The tickets aren’t too cheap so maybe you might want to bring in a sneaky hip flask to have with your coke.
Visit Irish blogger Leanne Woodfull’s page, http:// thunderandthreads.blogspot.co.uk/ for some more of Dublins best sites and shops.
corners to even get a cheeky snog in. With similar vibes in mind why not take a trip to the historic area of Temple Bar; turning a blind eye to the local drunk or two The
Button Factory is where you can find Dublin’s coolest and
trendiest. The Button Factory is one of the city’s largest venues and plays host to a wide variety of music genres from Indie to Drum and Bass. There’s an event happening nearly every night of the week, so if you’re up for a casual Tuesday piss up get yourself on their cheap list via Facebook to knock a few quid off the entry fee.
Pubs and Clubs The Irish and their drinking, is like the Italians and their opera, the English and their football, the Americans and their cheeseburgers. It’s a well known fact that the Irish are great at their drinking, so while on a trip to Dublin it would be rude not to sample out some of Ireland’s best watering holes. If you’re looking for a traditional Irish pub, Mc Daids is one of Dublin’s classic little boozers. Situated on Harry Street, which is just off the bustling main street that is Grafton Street, Mc Daids is a cosy little pub with an ecstatic atmosphere. Known to pull one of the best pints of Guinness in the city, its bursting with Celtic charm. On a weekday you can pull up a stool and befriend some of the locals, while on the weekend be prepared for it to be more a shoulder to shoulder affair as it gets quite busy on a Saturday. If you’d rather fancy a cheeky cocktail than a dirty pint, Alfies on South William Street does great cocktails that don’t break the bank. During the day it serves a mix of great Irish and international cuisine, while during the night the bar upstairs turns into a popular hot spot for pre drinks or after work cocktails. It has a vibrant atmosphere and great service, Alfies is definitely worth a visit. If sipping on a whiskey while seated on a saddle styled stool
sounds like your thing, Bison Bar on Wellington Quay is the perfect hangout that is truly well committed to its theme. Serving over 150 different types of whiskeys this bar has a lot of wild western character, and if your spirit knowledge isn’t quite up to scratch the extremely friendly staff are there to give you a helping hand to choose the right brew. Dublin’s night life is booming, the city definitely comes to life after dark. Although most clubs ask to pay an entry fee on arrival, a new night opens every few weeks meaning your spoiled for
choice. We Are Emergence is a music and events company that showcase new and emerging talent in Dublin, hosting nights in the city’s coolest venues as well as one of Ireland’s new emerging
festivals, Life, head to one of their club nights and your bound to be surrounded by awesome music, cool people and a fantastic atmosphere.
A popular hipster hangout, Pygmalion is located in the Powerscourt centre. Resident DJs play a mixture of Hip Hop, House, Disco and Techno; it has a cool chilled out vibe with super comfy couches and dimmed lighting. In the winter months they give out blankets so you don’t get cold while popping out for a fag. Its a really great place to hang out with a big group of friends, and it even has an old-fashioned photo booth to snap some of the memories. One of Dublin’s greatest underground clubs is The Twisted
Pepper on Abbey Street. On a Saturday night it will set you back €15 (£12.50 approx.) before you even get in through the door, however its definitely worth the money as this club gets some of Europe’s best DJs to play at it. Split into four main areas, with a great smoking area upstairs and plenty of room for raving, The Pepper is a trendy, youthful venue, equipped with some dark 109
Food Over the last few years Dublin has evolved into a city of great global food, there are endless restaurants and cafés to feast upon. If your looking for a traditional Irish fry up, the best is in one of the cities landmarks that is Bewleys Café. It first opened in 1927 and it still has a real authentic feel to it today, the décor being inspired by Parisian cafés. A full Irish breakfast will cost €9.60 which ain’t to shabby. Like every bustling city the search for the best cup of coffee is very important, one of nicest I’ve come across is on South Leinster
Street, in a café called Cup. They give you a choice of different types of coffee as well as specialty herbal teas, the mood is very chilled, the staff are polite and the cakes a delicious! Another great
place is on Grand Canal Street called 3FE, if you don’t know your way around the city you’d never find it as it’s a little off the beaten track. It is adored by the trendiest people in the city, 3FE not only offers a wide range of coffees, it changes the types of brews weekly depending what’s in season. As well as a café it even offers classes in teaching how to brew the perfect espresso. There are lots of food hot spots popping up all around the City that wont cost you a fortune, but if there is one thing to try before
you jet set home is the Irish classic. The Chicken Fillet Roll. Irish people do delis like no other, walk into any Irish newsagents (Centre in Temple Bar is a good one) and head for the Deli counter, ask for a chicken fillet roll, and they will do the rest. Breaded chicken, in a baguette, salad, cheese and load up on the mayonaise. Absolutely, deliciously disgusting, it’s a must have!
Jo Burger in Castle Market has an extensive menu of beef, chicken and vegetarian burgers, they come with an array of toppings, delicious sides and a great selection of beer. It also has a sister
restaurant Crackbird, on Dame Street, which specializes in chicken. Like a much fancier, nicer Nandos the chicken is best served with a glass of their special lemonade. Both restaurants have resident DJs that come and play during the evenings; these spots are ubber cool and definitely worth a visit. If Mexican tickles your fancy, Boojum on the Millennium Walkway serves up the ultimate burrito, load it full of meet, salsa and guacamole and wash it down with one of their imported Mexican beers. If your feeling feisty they make there own Margaritas, all costing under €10 its a cheap and cheerful lunch option. Tucked away in the corner of Temple Bar is a fantastic Indonesian restaurant called the Chameleon. Decorated in beautiful Indonesian décor you sit low on grand couches and cushions while eating your meal. This is a great spot for veggies as well as meat eaters as its serves up a selection of Indonesian style tapas.
For more of Dublin’s great eateries check out the food blog http://lovindublin.com it has some really great finds and its also fucking hilarious!
Words by Aoife Finegan
YOUTH REVOLTING
e l y t S t e e r t S THIS MONTH WE CHECKED OUT SOME YOUTH REVOLTING IN LONDON’S KINGS CROSS, OUTSIDE THE NEW CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS BUILDING. HERE’S A CROP OF THE UNRULY BUNCH MAKING WAVES WITH THEIR UNIQUE STYLE.
GEORGE Meet George. He’s 17 and currently sitting his A-Levels. A skater boy through and through, with board in hand, headphones on and a lit cigarette. He’s spending his day skateboarding around kings cross, waiting for his girlfriend, a CSM student, to come out for lunch. In his battered leather jacket and ripped jeans, he’s a cross between The Ramones meets Spinal Tap, George is cool and he knows it.
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SUTAN Sutan, 18, is studying Fine Art at CSM. Her use of black-on-black garment layering and exploring different garment lengths set the tone for a Rick Owen’s style industrial Goth aesthetic. Sutan’s bleached out hair and eyebrows and barely there make-up, as well as use of silver piercings adorning her face and ears create an eerie effect, not afraid to shock and scare, standing as a lone wolf in the style stakes.
HIROSHISA Hiroshisha is bold, brave and bright. Looking every inch the artist in his quirky get up, Hiroshisa, 23, is studying an Art Foundation at CSM. His clashing of bright colours and overload of accessories shows he’s not one to hide from the limelight, even down to his polished off ‘clown’ shoes.
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le Street Sty IRENE Irene caught our eye in a array of clashing prints and patterns, within a beautiful blue tone. It’s not hard to tell from the way she dresses that Irene, 23, is a textile designer. Considered with an attention to detail, yet with a carefree vibe of layering cardigans over jackets, she has a natural flair for breaking style rules.
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Alex When we saw Alex walk through the CSM campus, we couldn’t contain our excitement. With her new age punk vibe; completed with chained and muzzled dog, Sprocket, Alex looks every inch the youth in revolt. However, underneath her harsh biker boots and gun print hoodie, Alex is a sweetheart. Training to be a teacher, she aims to work with refugees to help teach them English, a true punk with a heart.
DAO Dao, 25, is a guy who knows how to dress himself. Sleek and smart, with a youthful edge, we love everything about Dao, from his effortless beanie hat to his pinstripe coat. An emerging photographer within the industry, Dao was keen to be shot in his best light.
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le Street Sty ALEX This is Alex. He’s 22, an emerging freelance stylist and is going to be the next big thing. Guaranteed. Just look at the way he dresses. “Would you like my coat open or closed?” Alex asks when we photograph him; he definitely wanted to show off what was underneath, and with a well considered outfit like this, who wouldn’t?
JUAN AND MEIFAN Juan, 24 and Meifan, 22, are a fashionable duo if we’ve ever seen one. CSM students, with Juan studying Womenswear and Meifan studying Fine Art, both girls styles have definitely rubbed off on one another, with an agreed aesthetic of minimal colours and super sharp haircuts. Can we join the gang?
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FRANKIE Frankie, 19, is a super famous model, do you recognise him? One of the top androgynous models in the UK, Frankie is constantly being photographed as a girl. But with that bone structure, neat little bob and manicured nails, Frankie is a self proclaimed ‘Fabulous Skinny Bitch’. 115
In London
EXHIBITIONS
isabella blow: fashion galore A journey through the life , times and work of a fashion eccentric, ‘Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!’ is a feast for the sartorial eye, documenting her extraordinary 30 year career and eclectic wardrobe in sumptuous detail. Starting with her aristocratic upbringings, Somerset House displays her collaborative work and collections with millinery extraordinaire Philip Treacy and the ‘enfant terrible’ Alexander McQueen. Fragments and mementos of her editing days are also displayed; letters, lipsticks and her infamous pink ink litter open spreads of iconic imagery and her interviews within glossy magazines. Mannequins and installations by Shona Heath bring to life her most fascinating ensembles and her precious archive of garments and accessories by her closest of designer friends, as donated for display by Daphne Guinness. A unique celebration of an infamous life lived through clothes and one of theindustries greatest of influencers, Blow’s fashion legacy is not to be missed, unlike the woman herself.
CORinNE DAY: MAY THE CIRCLE REMAIN UNBROKEN
Somerset House 20th November - 2nd March 2014
youth in revolt reviews london’s latest exhibitions and installations
This autumn we saw the unveiling of a number of unseen photos from the early work of photographer Corinne Day in an exhibition entitles ‘May the circle Remain Unbroken’ at Gimpel Fils Gallery. Best known for her photos of a young Kate Moss, Day’s photographic style defined the 90s and pioneered the ‘cocaine chic’ and ‘grunge’ aesthetic that monopolised the decade. Carefully selected, this retrospective displays work that illustrates the people that Corinne‘s work brought together and the enduring friendships formed and documented through her photography. Furthermore, it illuminates her pioneering approach to photography whereby boundaries are blurred to the extent that it is impossible to distinguish what is real from what is constructed. Alongside these intimate works, a series of music videos by her long-term partner, Mark Szaszy, were screened on a loop, bringing the protagonists of Day’s works to life. The exhibition also coincides with the launch of the accompanying book by the same title, which is a collection of her work from this seminal period. ‘May the Circle Remain Unbroken’ was a simple and yet touching homage to the late Corinne Day whose work continues to inspire beyond it’s era. Gimpel Fils Gallery 16th October - 23rd November
KATY ENGLAND AND VAUXHALL MOTORS: Made in England Katy England turns director for the first time in her established career as a stylist, which has seen her as Fashion Director at Dazed and Confused and collaborator with Alexander McQueen. England has been commissioned by Vauxhall motors for a short five minute film, which explores the idea of youth style and culture, all through the eye of the anonymous driver of the trendy new Vauxhall motor, as part of a celebration of vauxhalls 110th birthday. The glossiness of the Vaushall motors tends to fit uncomfortably alongside the grittiness of youth culture at times, urban skater boys and punk types, which appear in the film don’t quite fit in with the Vauxhall ethos. For a directional debut however, the slick visuals and atmosphere creating soundtrack by Primal Scream show great potential for the fashion films of England, next time to a free narratice away from the motor brand. Somerset House 22nd November - 1st December 2013 116
club to catwalk The Victoria and Albert’s latest exhibition; Club to Catwalk features the 80’s fashion legends that are Vvienne Westwood, john Galliano and Leigh Bowery, in an insightfu to ‘fashion that was built for Friday and Saturday night’. Exploring the eighties and nineties fashion movements , and the mover s and shakers within it; the exhibitions - once the wild young students - moulded fashion into the experimental, gender bending fashion scene that has marker British pop culture. Of the two floors it inhabits, the exhibition introduces the daring works of the club as a theatre space and ‘non-fashion with a hard attitude’ through the dressed mannequins, short films, runway videos and club inspired small rooms. Club to Catwa;l will transcend you into a time where fashion was dramatic and London’s Voodoo Club was the unofficial runway.
SARAH LUCAS: SITUATION ABSOLUTE BEACH/MAN RUBBLE
The Victoria and Albert Museum 10th July - 16th February
STORM THORGERSON: THE STORM GATHERING The Storm Gathering displays some of rock ‘n’ rolls most iconic album covers by the English graphic designer, in a retrospective to celebrate Thorgerson’s 50 year career. Featured are a number of album artworks commissioned by musical talents including Led Zeppelin, Black Sabbath and Biffy Clyro. Thorgerson’s surreal visual style offers a manipulation of the truth, questioning “what if this could happen?”, juxtaposing realistic settings with fantasy happenings, trippy shit which only ever appears in dreams. Album artwork for Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon and Division Bells sit amongst the cafe environment of The Proud Archivist; perhaps more in an effort to decorate their gaff, rather than exhibit Thorgerson’s work. Working your way through the exhibition around the restaurant tables makes you feel slightly as if you are intruding on someone’s meal, so perhaps to break the ice, sit down and make the most of the food on offer, and take real time to view some of Thorgeson’s most iconic work. The Proud Archivist 23rd October - 1st December 2013
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Sarah Lucas is not one to shy away from the explicit. Two decades of work were showcased by the Goldsmiths graduate; exploring themes of the gritty realisation in which the human mind approaches sex and the naked body. Lucas guilt trips the way you see objects within her installations; “Is that what I think it is, or do I just have a dirty mind?!”. Reoccurring themes of sex are used within the exhibition; we see the human genitalia through the use of food, which are not immediately obvious, whilst crushed cars discretely run through the exhibition. Is Lucas trying to make us question the way we treat our sexual partners, using food as a metaphor for the way we greedily consume them? A car crash to represent the recklessness of treating our partners in this way? Either way you read it, Lucas’ exhibition is an eye opener into a world of explicitness we are normally concealed against. Whitechapel Gallery 2nd October - 15th December 2013
YOUTH INdoREVOLT c i s u m es
This month we hit up Jazz Cafe in Camden to meet videogame soundtrackers Dub Pistols and attend goth-pop songstress Charli XCX’s headline Islington show.
Charli XCX
O2 Academy Islington, 30/11/13 Setlist: What I Like Set Me Free Nuclear Seasons Lock You Up Stay Away You (Ha Ha Ha) How Can I/Sleigh Bells Black Roses I Love It Superlove Take My Hand You’re The One I Want Candy Encore: Grins
Theres been a cloud of buzz around Charli XCX since this summer. Not only did she co-write and feature on Icona Pop’s “I Love It”, which blew up every mainstream radio station in the country, but she released her hotly anticipated debut album “True Romance” in April. Her mixtapes and demos have been bubbling under the surface of the internet since 2008 and her live career started by playing at secret London raves as a young teen with watchful parents in tow. She has been busy touring the US and Europe with chart heavyweights Ellie Gouldling, Marina and The Diamonds, Coldplay and Paramore for the past year, and writing tracks for none other than Britney Spears. But forget all these names, as Charli is ready to show the world what she’s really got up her sleeve and that she can hold her own. Back on home turf and ready to play O2 Academy Islington tonight, Charli tweets that her biggest UK headline show to date is “gonna be magical”. The venue itself no bigger than your average school hall, but that didn’t stop support act Mausi getting the young crowd going with a handful of songs that recall Alphabeat’s fun floor fillers with a touch of Friendly Fires appeal. Tipped to be big in 2014, they have already made appearances at Reading and Leeds, and have trips to the Radio 1 offices for on-air interviews. Songs like “Body Language”, “Move” and “Boy + Girl = Magic” aimed to get the audience dancing, and did just that. Charli then came on to a whirring of spaceship-like sound effects and tore into opening track “What I Like” with the the sassiness of all five Spice Girls combined. She looked the angelic teen dream dressed head to toe in white; a shirt tied at the waist, leather biker, flared mini skort, platform buffalo trainers and glittery cat eye shades, plus signature red lips, winged liner and a mane of wild
black tresses. She paused to introduce her all female band, exclaiming “that’s fucking girl power right there!”. She went on to deliver a goth-pop fest of a setlist with favorites “Nuclear Seasons”, “You (Ha Ha Ha)” and “You’re The One” pleasing the fans most. Half way through the set, some electrics blew. We could still perfectly hear her through the mic, but so to fill in the gap whilst technicians sorted the bigger issue, the
“She doesn’t care, she does what she wants and she doesn’t follow any rule book” band and Charli improvised by playing a percussion led cover of The Strangeloves’ “I Want Candy” which tickled the slightly older crowd. The darker track “How Can I” sampled the foghorn sounds of Sleigh Bells’ “Infinity Guitars”, which was followed by her Icona Pop single which crowd went crazy for. Her most pop orientated and newest single “Superlove” got hips thrusting and bodies whirling, but it was “Take My Hand” that got the most movement. She attempted crowd surfing from either sides of the stage and demanded gig-goers to do just that, grab her fucking hand, encouraging a surge forward of people wanting to do so. She has a fierce stage presence, stomping in her platforms, throwing herself around the equipment, writhing around on the floor and thrashing her head so that her hair became this billowing mass of ebony. She couldn’t give two shits whether she dirtied her pristine St Trinians- esque ensemble as she was having a riot of a time and so was the adoring crowd full of girls and boys alike. Encore song “Grins”, produced by Blood Diamonds, provided a hauntingly fuzzy send off; if Tumblr had a soundtrack, this would be track one. 118
Charli is fast becoming one of Britain’s most formidable pop stars to date, and she proved it right here tonight. She doesn’t care, she does what she wants and she doesn’t follow any rule book. She has a growing legion of fans that discovered her online that are now itching to see her in the flesh headlining her own shows, and if her Twitter is anything to go by, she is eager to eager to fulfill the demand. She is currently working on album number two, and if the likes of Radio 1 have picked her first single from it for their playlist, she is sure as hell in for a ride to superstardom that surpasses her Myspace and Soundcloud roots. Pop is becoming a lot darker and more electro fueled, as proved by the likes of Grimes, Sky Ferreira and Lorde this year, and Charli XCX is the one-woman mosh pit leading the way. Words by Sophie Watson.
DUB PISTOLS w e i v r e Int
With such an unthinkable combination of genres that mesh so well, Dub Pistols are the pioneers of a new generation of music not afraid to mix and evolve. We went to see them in Camden where they blew the roof off The Jazz Cafe, with most of the thursday evening crowd wishing it was friday so they could have a proper mucky one! From the first time we saw them at Beautiful Days Festival under the motto of “Dub pistols do not do sitting down!” to present, they have generated an unmissable vibe. We talk festivals, London and hangover cures with drummer Jack Cowens.
Q. So you’ve played quite a few festivals this year, all around the UK, where has been your favourite place to play? A. Glastonbury without a doubt! Probably one of the best nights of my life! Its an amazing achievement to play there. Q. What are your fans like? You seem to have a mixture of fans but mostly an older crowd is that always the case? A. Mostly, I guess because of the range of ages of the band members, but up north the fan base seems to be younger for some reason. We’re off to Brighton tomorrow and Brighton fans are fun! Q. Any funny fan stories?
A. Just the girls in Manchester, they go crazy for us! Do all sorts! They’re younger and wilder than most places we go. We end up signing everything. Q. What gigs have you got coming up that you are looking forward to? A. Well we’ve got India and Dubai coming up next year! Which is amazing and most of us haven’t been before. Q. So you have a big fan base in India? Seems a long way for your music to travel! A. Seems so! I don’t really know what music young people listen to out there but I’m glad it’s us, its gunna be a great trip, I’m really looking forward to how different it will be. And we’re doing Snowbombing in Austria for a week again next year, which is always great because it’s like a mini holiday! A big lot of us go out there for that week and we get to ski of course which is always a great perk! Q. Sounds great! Winter festivals in the snow and at ski resorts are getting quite big now aren’t they? A. Yeah well it’s a big festival with some really cool people playing and yeah it’s different to a lot of the gigs we do here in the UK and a guess something exciting for the festival goers to do too, it’s got a large British crowd, it gets pretty messy! Q. What’s the best way to deal with a hangover on tour? A. Flat Coca-cola. Always does the trick.
Q. You’re playing in London tonight, is that important to you’re based here?
Q. Would you ever consider harking solely back to CD or vinyl?
A. London’s always special because we have a lot of family and friends come to watch, which can be daunting but, the after party is always good. I love London in general, we’ve been looking forward to tonight for a while. The people in London are different y’no.
A. Yeah definitely for some things… there’s something about having the whole thing with the CD and the artwork and everything. I’ve still got hundreds of CD cases with the sleeve notes in my old room at my parents; I could never bring myself to throw them away. Vinyl is so collectable now and its awesome it’s on the rise again. The fact is everything just sounds so good on vinyl!
Q. Dub Pistols sits within a large range of genres, but what influences your music the most? A. The sound comes from a combination of things but I think most important is the crowd’s reaction from new things we try, and then adapting things into new and fresh ideas. There’s often a difference between what you hear on a record and how it translates to a live show, because we’ve got a collective of musicians who are all influenced by different sounds. Q. What do you buy and listen to?
A. My music taste is pretty varied and I’ll pretty much listen to anything I think is good. But in the main I’d probably say dance music, especially house. There’s a lot of great new UK artists and producers out there, so I’m always on the hunt for new underground stuff. Q. So that’s where quite a lot of the dub-step/dance comes from then? A. Yeah I guess so, the whole band are into dance music, and worked with some big names in hip-hop, dance and reggae scenes. Q. What’s your favourite record store? Or do you do it all online now? A. Yeah I guess so, the whole band are into dance music, and worked with some big names in hip-hop, dance and reggae scenes. To be honest I usually buy most things through Beatport or iTunes, purely because the world is just more digital now. But I’m lucky enough to live near Peckings record shop in Shepherds Bush which is pretty famous for all things reggae so I’ve ventured there a few times to see if they have anything cool in. 119
Q. At Youth in Revolt we’re all about breaking the norm and Dub Pistols seems to reflect this ethos, through your mixture of genres and band members. Do you think this is important for the industry in an age of endless teenage stars and X-Factor alumni? A. Yeah personally I think you should try to push your own boundaries, through song-writing or sounds or the way music is presented, or however you can… It can be frustrating seeing some of the X-Factor stories change the people, from genuine talent to another of Simon Cowell’s pop factory. There’s a lot of pressure put on them, and I think sometimes people forget that it’s a TV show rather than a singing contest. Q: Very true! And yet so many people miss that.
A. Rightly or wrongly it has a place in music these days. For individual musicians, I guess it’s got pros and cons. Q. So what do the next five years hold in store for the Dub Pistols, what’s the big plan? A. We wanna keep doing what were doing! Touring non-stop and keep writing new music! Bring the Dub Pistols party all over the world! Front-man Barry Ashworth is set to bring the Dub Pistols sound system to Somerset House for its much anticipated Christmas Snowboming Skate on Wednesday 11th December ‘seasonal dub and jungle classics set’ - apparently he has a ska version of jingle bells!
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ISSUE 1 EXCLUSIVE MULTIPLE COVERS
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Revolt of the Month BINDIS, BUFFALOS AND BOY LONDON
This month I want to raise the issue of so-called “Tumblr fashion”. Im talking tie-dye tees with upside down crucifixes, condom shaped beanie hats, and anything with ‘BOY London’ plastered all over it. You know the kind of outfits I’m referring too; we’ve all seen characters whose preferred style is simply internet diarrhea. It’s all well and good taking style inspiration from images you see online, but I have a problem with farcical fashion that takes a leaf out of Tumblr’s book. Here are my top five fashion don’ts as inspired by this offensive and laughable online realm. Words by Sophie Watson
2) Tie-dye. It was cool when you were young and were a mere child during the 90’s but this generation’s re-hash of psychedelic sensibilities is just plain stupid. This goes for anything holographic or with the yin and yang symbol emblazoned on it too. You did not just step off a spaceship that hailed from Planet Hippy, you’re a joke.
1) I don’t know about you dear reader, but when I see girls of Western ethnicity wearing bindis, I cant help but die inside. Girl, you aren’t 2013’s answer to 90‘s Gwen Stefani, you’re just another ignorant hipster who has not knowledge or respect for traditional Southern and Southeast Asian dress. You’ve no real reason to be wearing such an item of religious decoration for your own style statement. Just don’t do it!
3) If you’ve got anything relatively sea punk in your wardrobe lurking from summer 2012, burn it. Anything of a turquoise hue, nautical themed, or hinting at marine life has got to go. Azealia Banks epitomised this look in her Atlantis music video and it swamped Twitter profiles the world over. Let’s pretend this trend never happened.
4) Tumblr is renowned for recycling trends to the point of no return, and platform trainers of the Buffalo kind are its next victim. These chunky, impractical and down right ugly choice of footwear have unfortunately resurfaced, and hark back to tragic photos of the Spice Girls at the height of their fame. Don’t even bother looking for vintage ones on eBay, for the sake of other people’s eyes. 5) There are hundreds of posers online, but none worse than those soft grungers. Pastel hair, pentagram necklaces, triple sole creepers... what the hell?! This is the Tumblr take on what real grunge was in the tail end of the 20th century, which seems to be a typical theme. Only this time a healthy dose of rainbows, unicorns and kittens are the inspiration. Whatever.
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