The Bhutan Narrative Kaarwan’17
Kaarwan ‘ 17
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Learnings and Experiences - Kaarwan’17
This year the focus of Kaarwan is traditional architecture. Bhutan being a country which has a very unique notion of development as compared to the rest of the world, proves to be an alluring place to visit and introspect the state of profession and the nature of development happening around. The country has always had strong cultural notions towards its lifestyle; the same getting reflected in its architecture is a thing to be looked upon in detail. Also, what do the local architects have a say for their architectural style is something very important to comprehend. As for them maintaining the cultural ties along with design development is also very crucial according to the building bye-laws over there. The attitude towards practise, the type of development in the past, at present and expected to happen in future shall give us a glance of how a small country progresses and how architecture plays a role in it.
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Every year, people from all over the country come together to travel, to learn and discover. Those 15 enthralling days provides every individual with a life-altering experience. The focus of the 15 days is not just to visit a place and learn from it but with the people along and around us. Everyone participating in these 15 days break out of their monotonous cocoons. The intense discussions we have while travelling and all the fun we have by interacting and playing games brings all of us to together as a close-knit family.
Ashuto
The “eh-saas� we get from these 15 days energizes us from within and broadens our perspective towards the world.
Shruti Sahrawat
Tanvi A
Mrigank Mishra
Tarjani Samani
Divya Ag
Rishabh Roy
Anargha Ebin
Gourav Goyal
Sharvi Chavan
Shruti H
Sameera Yvs
Aneree Satra
Jasmeen Kaur
Mayank Singhal
Harman
osh Jha
Shreya Shah
Shubhangi Goyal
Jyoti Singla
Nimret Mangat
Ajit Bobhate
Sapna Chauhan
Tarunpreet Kaur
Khushita Wagle
Raghav Mundra
Amruta Kiran
Ankita Sethi
Lajja Bharat
Manali Holla
Hanchinal
Vandana Kumar
Preeti Yadav
Prerna Kapoor
Richa Singh
npreet Kaur
Ayushi Jain
Kishlay Kishore
Avinash Kachhap
Sreesha Prasan
ggarwal
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photos. They used to make friends with people visiting them hoping some of them would write back to them from the city. I still remember the excitement and joy they would have everytime someone met them and how happily they would share their stories and show people around their house. It made me realize how we take things for granted and how such a small thing could bring such big bright smiles. I have learned from them and from many such small encounters with other people which has now somewhere shaped me up too.
FROM THE AUTHOR When one travels with their soul engrossed into the experience, one experiences many epiphanies. At Kaarwan , I came across the same. It is not just about going to a particular place that makes the difference but also the intent and the people who are with you at the same time.
There are endless small stories of people I came across at every place and I could comprehend more about each place through these stories. At Garli I learned from the person taking initiative to maintain the village; that it is not much of how far you go but what matters the most is having the courage to take small steps and then surely one thing will lead to another. The positive spirit which he had affirmed my faith of the much celebrated belief,
The small things are what made the most of difference right from travelling in the night and reaching a completely new place with a totally different culture at sunrise, intense discussions with the group or simply just being, absorbing the plethora of things happening around you,etc
“Be the change you want to see”
There is a lot I learned about people too; be it the ones who are most extroverted in nature or the most introverted. I realized how everyone is sensitive about something which is close to their heart. One could observe and learn how different yet similar people are at different places. There is a particular sentiment which echoes of each place, space and time and absorbing all of it with everyone else is what created a deep impact within me.
It’s been close to two years now and yet I can vividly recall and feel every minute spent travelling. I recollect my experiences from Kaarwan’15 as much as this year’s trip to Bhutan. There is no end to the journey we have begun on Kaarwan. The moments spent with everyone on Kaarwan and the people I came across be it architects, locals or just a random glance at someone is what I remember every time I have to lift my spirits up, to keep myself motivated.
During Kaarwan’15, when I was at Hunnarshala, Bhuj. I met two young girls and a small kid who would be so happy every time I would click their
-TarjaniS. 9
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.
Looking Through Conditions of Time
10.
Jinghsu Pap
2.
Destination 1 : Varanasi
11.
Day 6 : Tash
3.
Experiencing Bhutan
12.
Faith
4.
Milestones of Bhutan
13.
Day 7 : Puna
5.
Day 5 : College of Science and
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Strolling in t
6.
Glimpse of Phuntsholing
15.
Day 9 : Bum
7.
Day 5 : Thimphu
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Wandering i
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Singing with kids in Thimphu
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Day 11 : Paro
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Visit to Royal College of Thimphu
18.
Musings
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per Factory
hi Cho Dzong, Thimphu
akha
the village of Wangdue, Punakha
mthang
in the market
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11 Photo Credit : Amrita
Looking through conditions of Time Every place has its own shared history; its own intriguing past and anticipated future. Even now when we belong to the same “modern” era - every city; every settlement is on a different stage of development. Some settlements have turned out to be progressive and advanced according to the time they belong in; while some are yet moving forward. However, neither does it mean that someone is ahead or behind ; as mentioned earlier each place has its own set of combinations of situations unique and true to itself. To expect the whole world to be the same would make it monotonous, robotic and dead.
“Architecture is involved with the world, but at the same time, it has a certain autonomy. This autonomy cannot be explained in terms of traditional logic because the most interesting parts of the work are non-verbal. They operate within the terms of work, like any art. -Thom Mayne “
Every profession has its own set of ethics; a doctor is expected to save life; a teacher is expected to educate and nurture young minds, etc. And all of these are interconnected. One can’t do without the other.
Similarly, the profession of architecture should make sure that the human settlements are sustainable. A building should not be built for a few years for the sake of it as a lot of manpower and resources goes into it. Architecture is beyond glossy facades and satisfying consumerist demands. Living in a healthy space and place adds richness and meaning to our lives. “One cannot make architecture without studying the condition of life in the city” -Aldo Rossi
We move through time like a man in a rowboat, looking back even as we move forward. -William Landay.
As students and professionals of architecture, it thus becomes very important to introspect on the nature of development happening around. Be it in the most developed city or the one yet developing, there is something to learn from each place. Each belongs to its own time.
“ Architecture should be rooted in the past, and yet be part of our own time and forward looking.” -Moshe Safdie 12
Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
DESTINATION 1 : VARANASI Our trip began at the New Delhi Railway Station, mingling for the first time we all were in great anticipation of the journey which lay ahead. Soon we take the first train of our journey from Delhi to Varanasi.
Next day morning we all wake up, energized and excited to walk through the by-lanes of Varanasi to the Ghats. The poori- bhaji and jalebi breakfast energized us all for the long day which lay ahead. After the breakfast when we were on our way to the bus on the main road, I and Vandana came across a 500 yr. old temple which had skulls at its entrance! Through the temple we learned about a sage who lived in Varanasi centuries ago; of how his life was to bring about social innovations and revolutions; of how he challenged the existing social norms for the welfare of all. Here religion did play a huge role in the daily life of the people. It made me question to what extent does it play for today’s time and age?
Photo Credits : Aneree
However the extent of awareness the people residing now in the city have is something worth pondering about. Indian literature and mythology had a rich and liberal beginning; but the political scenario nowadays treats religions as vote-banks. Not to say all things are bad but there sure exists some tardiness in improving the conditions. Not denying the progress in a positive direction but the collective effort towards the same is what needs to be strengthened. With the average Indian citizen being reminded of his role in the society once again it is for sure that these collective efforts to improve the overall health of the city shall gain momentum very soon. 16
Each city has a surge in its economy owing to an increase in Tourism, however each city also faces the negative side of this increased touristification.
The temple with skulls at it’s entrance Photo Credits : Tarjani
What was very hard-hitting while roaming around the streets in Varanasi was the impact of the increasing population, traffic and ever-rising influx of tourists. The increase in the density of people living in an area and the ever present floating population leads to traffic congestion in already narrow roads. Varanasi has always been an important religious tourism destination and over a million tourists including foreigners come to visit the city for its rich sociocultural fabric. But having a large number of floating population puts a great strain on its resources. While walking around I could see how some heritage structures were converted into 5 –star hotel businesses. The tourists coming to the city interact with it quite harmoniously, however to cater to the increasing demand of tourism is what brings a downside to it.
Walking through the narrow streets in Varanasi was extremely intriguing. The streets were never designed for vehicular movement but then again it is now a necessity of today’s time. 17
No wonder Tourism has led to an increase in the job opportunities for the growing population but there shall be sustainable ways formed to deal with the same.
Also in the case of Varanasi, it has put an enormous strain on the environmental resources on which it depends for eg. 80 percent of pollution in the Ganges is urban waste. Even though the initiatives of the government and NGO’s have led to an improvement in the condition of the river, but still the damage exists. The situations have improved comparatively along the Ghats as the person whose boat we were in was sharing that now there is proper segregation of dry and wet waste, adequate lighting in the area, daily cleaning of the river bank etc.
The edge of the river bank is now not just for socio-cultural activities but also economic activities such as Paan shops, vegetable and fruit vendors, boats, etc. Soon we reach the Bharat Kala Parishad. This place was like a mecca for us due to the ongoing Alice Bonner travelling exhibition. Interacting with Dr. A .K Singh (Director of the museum) we learned of the enormous collection of paintings, sculptures and scriptures which the museum houses. He also shared that as per international norms a museum
should display 10 percent of its collection but how currently they are only able to display a mere 3 percent out of it. The people working at the museum shared stories about how they curated the entire collection for display according to the time period it belonged to. 18
We got an exposure into the very first sculptures of the Indus valley civilization to the latest of the Company paintings in pre and post-independent India. Learning about how the method and style of sculpture making evolved along with the development in the techniques and philosophical and religious evolution gave us a great insight into the Indian Art History. Comprehending it opened up our minds in new ways.
Group Photo with Dr. A.K Singh at the entrance of Bharat Kala Parishad Photo Credits : Aneree Learning about how an artist from the West was intrigued by the Hindu mythology and classical dance and how she acted as a bridge between the East and the West was extremely fascinating. The travelling exhibition “Alice from Switzerland” broadened our perspective of the city to a great extent. The simplest of philosophies combined with our short experience of the city started making sense. ALICE BONNER –“ The tradition is the decisive factor. Life is entangled in certain time and phases. The individual involved in this cycle, is relieved of his own decisions.” 19
Later on we go to visit the Somnath temple and then had a look at how the famous Benarasi Sarees are made. We also tried the local chat which was available on the road. Must say, Varanasi has a flavor of its own. What was intriguing about visiting these temples was how the faith has remained constant from the past. However the recent constructions made out of concrete are really disappointing. It is exhilarating to attempt to comprehend how the society, the people and the architecture all weave in together here. This city is strikingly different from the regular metro cities in not just it’s urban from but also the process of development it has had.
Visit to the Dhamek Stupa – The place where the enlightened Buddha gave the first sermon to his five disciples after attaining enlightenment, “revealing his Eightfold Path leading to nirvana”
Visit to the Handloom Workshop – The Benarasi saari which is an integral part of ethnic lifestyle Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
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Photo Credits : Aneree
Lastly we visit the Ghats again to witness the evening aarti. Looking at the Ghats lit up in yellow light from our boat was a feast to our eyes. A group of priests daily in the evening at this ghat perform ‘Agni Pooja’(Worship to Fire) wherein a dedication is made to Lord Shiva, River Ganga(the Ganges), Surya (Sun), Agni (Fire), and the whole universe. (from Kaarwan’s Instagram page) We could hear the temple bells ringing along with the hymns of the aarti .The energy of that place where the aarti was happening was very positive and vibrant. Yet at the same time as the boat moved away slightly further we could also see cremation taking place. To me it was like life and death both being acknowledged together, in a way celebrated together.
I was enthralled by the entire experience of the evening aarti. It really is thought-provoking of how similar yet different things are from the past to the present. This ritual is taking place since ages and people come here for different reasons and belong to different walks of life; yet the underline of the entire event taking place is the same. The aarti nurtures some part of the internal spirit of anyone allowing it to.
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As more and more people started coming to Varanasi, the city started becoming over-populated in certain areas and its open spaces came down drastically. The city which originally had larger Ghats, now has smaller densified versions of the same. As much as the city as a whole is concerned; it is going to face some challenges in the near future like almost many cities in India are facing today. Of lately, proposals to develop Varanasi as a smart city are being considered by the government. Under the new scheme, the center plans to convert the ancient city also known as Kashi into Suramya (appealing), Samunnat (socio economic growth), Sanyojit (allowing hassle free movement) and Nirmal (clean). The smart city earlier faced certain criticism for only targeting the VIP areas under development but as of now even the Old city area where a major chunk of population resides is taken into consideration. As rightly said by many, we can hope that it just does not develop as a smart city but a sensible one too. Visiting Varanasi helped us understand how different cities develop differently according to the pattern of settlements, socio-cultural factors, economic activities, etc. Insights of Miss Alice Bonner of Varanasi as a living city and her sensitivity towards the same being reflected in her artwork showed us of how different people respond to the same context and how there is something to discover from everyone’s perspective.
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Put image from Kaarwan Insta page. Ganga Aarti
Some places seem to be right out of your dream A dream which one must have dreamt as a kid Or better, a dream which the kid in us dreams.
25 Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
Experiencing Bhutan
Bhutan, it’s settlements nestled amidst the mountain ranges appear to be nurtured by nature. Standing right in the middle and looking at the scenic beauty all around intuitively develops a spirit within that this place has to be respected for its natural resources; that grazing everything down in the name of development will be good for no one. Experiencing Bhutan has definitely raised several questions while simultaneously answering many. Sustainability is not just environmental but is also economic sustainability, social sustainability and cultural sustainability. The experience also echoed the multiple realities which exist in our world. Visiting Bhutan has helped us learn of how the simplest of things can make one content and profound. In this fast-paced world where things change drastically in the blink of an eye , Bhutan teaches of how one can have a progressive mind while being true to one’s cultural heritage. The motto of the Royal Commission stands true “ It is possible to be the same while being distinctly different”
1. Juhani Pallasmaa, The Eyes of the Skin. p. 30
27 Photo Credits : Ankita Sethi
Photo Credits : Manalli Holla
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Their belief systems and governance is not something which is enforced on the general public but rather is a part of each individual with great admiration and respect towards the same. For the Bhutanese, values and ethics don’t just remain in the pages of book but rather transcend to the pages of life. “Skill is the most powerful weapon you can use to change the world “ Respecting the smallest of the things is something which is imbibed in their nature. Here there is a sense of belonging in each part of the city and village equally – be it the richest or the poorest , men and women , elderly and young.
Being a land which belongs to its own time; it calms the storm within and ignites a fire to introspect and grow holistically . 29
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Milestones of Bhutan Photo Credits : Shubhangi
Photo Credits : Tarjani Samani
Each country has its own set of values for development; its own milestones. Bhutan has always been a country with a very holistic notion of development. For this quaint country, it is not about how rich can they get but rather how happy can they be.
Photo Credits : Ankita Sethi
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The importance given to the feeling of contentment and happiness is such that the government has included the question “Are you happy “even while taking Census . The attitude of a country towards its citizens can be comprehended through how its government is functioning and how the rules are imposed. The same proves to be a very critical understanding to analyze any country’s law and order and how the general public reacts to it and accepts it. A country can be harsh or democratic with the same. Bhutan now is a constitutional monarchy and the Bhutanese do have a lot of admiration and respect towards their current King. The simple fact that anyone can approach the King easily if their issues are not being heard of and looked after instills a great sense of faith in them.
One very interesting feature on the roads was how humorously there were quotes along with the milestones. Each milestone proving to provide a very simple but crucial message.
The dictionary meaning of Milestones is: a significant stage or event in the development of something.
Some of them are as follows:
For the Bhutanese, milestones achieved have been equality, almost zero crime rate, and development of local schools, healthcare centers and many more. Their milestones have always proven to have a vision towards improving the quality of life rather than quantitative measures such as how wealthy their economy is.
1. This is highway not runway. 2. Always expect the unexpected. 3. Drive on Horsepower and not rum power. 4. Danger lurks at dark corners. 5. Kindness is giving right of way. 6. Live for your today, Drive for your tomorrow. 7. Stop Sometime and Enjoy Nature. 8. Together we can make road journey safer. 9.Enjoy it but not while on the wheel 10.Drive responsibly.
Certain Visions are that of an individual and certain of the State, collectively thought of. Bhutan has always balanced both of them graciously. One example being when the Royal King and Queen where blessed with a son, they decided to celebrate not by throwing elaborate parties but rather by planting 108,000 trees. These trees were planted happily by the volunteers who later even thought of nurturing the plants as nurturing the prince. This simple act shows the integrity which exists in each individual in Bhutan.
This seems to be an extremely simple thing which may be overlooked but rather is not. It’s interesting to read these lines on the milestones while on road as many of them offer some profound thoughts other than asking to drive carefully in a humorous fashion. Also here there is no need to use the honks unnecessarily while driving as there is a disciplined approach towards the same. For e.g. on our way to Bumthang, there was some construction work going on the road; we patiently waited till the workers finished with the same. There was a mutual understanding that the workers would give us the right of way as soon as it was possible to. It appears as a very simple thing but think over it, if the same situation would have been somewhere else all one would have constantly heard is desperate honking of the impatient people in their vehicles.
Photo Credits : Manalli Holla
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Day 5 : College of Science and Technology
Filled with excitement of crossing the borders and entering a mystical land; the first engaging encounter we had with the Bhutanese was at the College of Science and Technology, Phuntsholing. We visited the college to have an interactive session with students of architecture over there along with Prof.Drubraj Sharma; who acquainted us with the concept of “ Gross National Happiness �. As we entered the lecture hall we sat as one big Indian group but were then quickly made to sit in pairs of one student from the college and one of us. A great idea as sitting next to students of that college sowed the seeds of our earlier interaction. Initially we all felt shy but the conversation of how tough the course of architecture everywhere is was a good laugh to dismiss all the awkwardness. The college was very grand and yet inviting; a striking quality of Bhutanese architecture. After the lecture and interaction session, we all soon gathered for a photo session together in their campus area. Must say, all colleges in Bhutan have a really huge campus area where you can stroll around endlessly. An architecture college having such open campus nurtures the creativity in young minds immediately.
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Lecture by Prof.Drubraj
A lot of questions in our minds regarding the working of GNH were answered by Prof.Dhrubraj In the lecture. One of the most important feature of the same was how the government scrutinizes each area and allocates funding according to the need specific to each region. Other feature included that how the country and it’s institutions are working towards making the country knowledgeable rather than just rich. It was indeed clear that the government looks at all of it’s citizen not just as some demographic number; but an equal and able member of the society. Each system definitely has it’s pros and cons, but here it seemed that the pros outweighed the cons.
Diagram taken from Govt. of Bhutan website
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One hard-hitting fact shared by the professor sensitized us for our journey in Bhutan ahead. Professor raised few simple questions “ Will the traditional facade we make in cement concrete in almost every building evoke the same emotional attachment on our grand children when they undertake to repair them? Will it still be as much sustainable as the traditional buildings.? How is this so called traditional building even local when the bricks are to be imported from India? Are theories to promote traditional form of building only good till paper? How to implement them better? “ This helped us develop a critical eye for the further days we were about to spend in this pristine country. While we were travelling from one city to another, we witnessed many such examples of dummy traditional from. As everything was made in POP or cement concrete instead of wood. Using this materials does have few practical and economic reasons to it and thus this topic initiated a debate.
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Movie theaters screening regional movies. The last show that day was of 8pm which we clearly missed
Painted ceilings depicting various elements of Buddhist beliefs
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First visit at a Buddhist temple where there was some work going on
GLIMPSE OF PHUNTSHOLING Post the interactive session at the college and the immigration process we return back . Fun Fact : Indians are allowed to enter Phuntsholing but have to return to Indian soil before 10 pm. A lot of trade takes place across the border like this. Also Indian Nationals get visa on arrival. In Bhutan, many people know Hindi well.
Upon further strolling around the streets, we somehow already felt like a part of the place; now even more enthralled about the journey ahead. The warm and welcoming nature was not just of the people of Bhutan, but in physical city as well. Sure it got gloomy and dark in certain areas in the late evening, but we hardly felt cautious.
The first striking thing one experiences in this city is the cleanliness maintained and the discipline of the pedestrians. This city has by far been one of the most comfortable “urban experience “ I have ever had. Trying out their momos by a quaint cafe between two buildings we could see the evening hustle. People doing grocery shopping, street dogs, people walking in dim yellow street lights etc. These scenes seemed to be painted out of some book
Here it felt like as if growth is a dialogue between present and the past; working steadily towards their future. There was no forced attempt to make people believe in the government or Buddhism, but something happily chosen by each individual quite proudly. Here public and private interests of people seemed to be quite in harmony and the rat race was hardly present.
The mighty entry gate to Bhutan
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Day 5 : Thimphu We reach Thimphu sometime in afternoon; again passing through an ornamented entrance. Many places in Bhutan celebrate thresholds with ornamentation rather than just manufacturing a steel gate for it. These entrances dignify their cultural empathy. Public structures such as these gates, bridges, markets,etc are in a dialogue with its surrounding context rather than revolting it. As we were passing through various roads in the hilly terrain , we could see small shrines built in the corners and the famous colorful flags reminding that people over here peacefully co-exist with nature; rather than just exploiting its natural resources from every nook and corner.
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Singing with kids in Thimphu Day 5: Later that evening we wandered in the streets around our lodge. It was all dark as the area did not have any street lights but still we did feel safe under the moonlight. As the city is on a slightly hilly terrain with buildings built on slopes we could see the entire city resplendent/gleaming around. The street was dimly lit by some light from apartments of the buildings around. Walking while it was drizzling made us search for a local shop where we could have a hot cup of tea and some special Bhutanese snacks. Soon further down the street we met a group of school kids right outside a local shop. They had put on a small bonfire under the roof overhang. Aah what a treat it was to sit around it with them and get a few subtle hints about the city and life of people over there.
43 Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
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No matter where you are, the innocent outlook of kids turns out to be mature in their own unique ways. That is because kids see and feel with their fresh eyes which the adult mind generally either ignores or over-analyses. The language that the kids speak, The dreams that they dream, The fear and insecurities that their innocent souls imbibe, How amenable they are, Speaks a lot about that place. Speak to the kids in any place and you will know exactly how good and healthy environment does that place actually provide to its residents‌
45 Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
Upon going inside the shop I discovered that most people in Bhutan can converse comfortably both in Hindi and English. Taking suggestions from the lady at the shop, we placed an order. Quickly slurping down our first ever bowl of noodle soup and hot tea in Thimphu we came outside again; this time to know more about the kids and have a fun-filled light hearted conversation with them. We had three kids accompanying us. Sitting around the bonfire the first thing I understood by
Photo Credits : Preety
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talking to them was that here in Bhutan even the females are educated and work with equal rights happily. One of the kid’s mother owned the shop we were sitting by. Soon we could comprehend that the other two kids were actually teasing that guy by some girl’s name. When we asked about the same he got all shy with his cheeks turning all red due to constant blushing. It made me remember my school days! He then requested all of us to stop as his mother would otherwise find out.
I soon noticed a book covered in brown paper which the kid was using to hide his blushing face and shy smile. I asked him to show me the book to find out what the kids were studying. It was a science practical journal and after a few pages of chemistry to my amazement it was filled up with lyrics of Bollywood songs! Soon we asked all of the kids to sing some Bollywood songs. In the book were songs from 3 Idiots, Aashiqui 2, Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara,
In the conversation we then tried knowing of what the kids aspired to become when they grew up. One wanted to become a singer, the other- a footballer and the last one did not know. It reminded me of how when we were kids; we would want to grow up and realize our dreams. No care about the wrong we had as we had that unending positivity in us that we shall grow up and do something out of the world. Nothing could dull our spirits then and we found joy in the
etc. We had to request a lot for them to agree to singing. Turns out their favorite song was “All izz well” from 3 idiots. They sang it really well. I then asked the kid whose cheeks were still red because of blushing that what he would sing for his crush. The answer was the song “Tum hi ho”. After a lot of pampering he finally agreed on one condition that we all sang along. And thus we all sang a few verses from multiple Bollywood movie songs.
simplest of things. We realized they have homework to do and also it was time to leave. While saying goodbye they called us ‘Azhim’ which means elder sister in Dzongkha; the national language of Bhutan .Our ‘Nuchus’ (meaning younger brothers) made us see their hometown from their playful eyes. The kids gave us a beam of happiness that night and left us with a sense of wonderment.
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VISIT TO ROYAL COLLEGE OF THIMPHU
Mesmerized by the appalling view of the Buddha Point, we all reach the Royal College of Thimphu. At the college we had an interactive session with Ar. Pem Jason and few of his colleagues. Royal College of Thimphu is the first private university in Bhutan. The college was designed by Pem sir. He studied architecture from CEPT University, Ahmedabad. The interaction started off with that note of how we study architecture in schools and how it later emerges into different styles of practise. As the interaction further progressed, he started telling us about his philosophy behind designing the campus. He told us about how he integrated the idea of landscape providing a canvas for the built. He further emphasized as we strolled around in the college campus of how while designing he kept in mind looking at the college from different vantage points; of how different parts of the campus shall interact with each other visually ; starting to appear as a person walks around. He also stated an example of how the Dzongs appear to be growing naturally from the landscape rather than a foreign entity sitting on the land. A important observation which we all had felt was shed light on by him of how the local architecture participates naturally and spontaneously with the landscape. Interacting with Pem sir we got to know a lot about the current state of profession in Bhutan.
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A very important statement which came from Pem Sir was , “ Here we accept flaws rather than chase perfection .” He further commented on how the rules and the building codes turn out to be both a boon and a bane. Benefits of the same include the uniformity in the language of architecture and the sense of place which forms as a result of it. However, the points criticizing the same building codes state that the same results in mediocrity and monotony. To understand the spatial planning he asked us to look at the building beyond it’s ornamentation and to comprehend the fine nuances in the change of scale in different types of spaces. He gave an example of how the Dzong architecture even though appears monumental from the outside, but as you enter it’s premises has rather a humbling effect. On further trying to comprehend the challenges posed by these regulations on the design, he told us that designing with the roof set at 12 degree slope was amongst the toughest. Discussing more on the roof he stated how earlier roofs didn’t need specialized sound insulation; but now with asbestos and GI sheets they do. He quoted ,
Photo Credits : Sameera View of Canteen area.
Photo Credits : Sharvi
“ We are first creating problem and then solving it ” 50
What was the most inspiring part of our visit at the college was the amount of awareness and the sensitivity towards architecture shown by almost everyone we interacted with at the college. Listening to the Head of Department show such sensitivity and respect towards the profession was awe inspiring. He quoted , “ Architects are Dreamers ” He went on stating how we make it possible to build dreams to reality and the responsibility we have on our shoulders.
Photo Credits : Sharvi
Visiting this college showed us of how the government shows great admiration for well-designed spaces be it a government college or a private university.
Photo Credits : TarjaniS. Who wouldn’t want to attend a lecture in such a well-lit classroom?!
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JINGSHU PAPER FACTORY The paper factory located approx a kilometer from Thimphu city continues to promote and preserve the age-old tradition of handmade paper. The place comprises of three main areas. First - the main workshop area where the paper is made; second - where the handmade paper is woven into books, diaries and other such stationery products; third - the shop where these products are displayed and sold. Visiting this place showed us how they are still hanging on to their cultural roots. The factory uses traditional methods to make the authentic Bhutanese paper known as Deh-sho. We all saw the entire process of making the handmade paper over there. The entire process is totally waste free as for example the sides of the paper remaining after it has been cut as per requirement is reprocessed.. Even though the entire process of making every single sheet of paper is laborious ; yields results which takes a person even just touching the paper start wandering in his own mind. As I was sauntering around the shop looking at the final product I could see the subtle underlay of Bhutanese aesthetic in all of them.
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Day 6 : Tashi Chho Dzong, Thimphu Being a Buddhist monastery and fortress on the northern edge of the city of Thimphu in Bhutan, on the western bank of the Wang Chu; it has traditionally been the seat of the Druk Desi ( or the “Dharma Raja” ), the head of Bhutan’s civil government, an office which has been combined with kingship since the creation of the Monarchy in 1907, and summer capital of the country. 55
Photo Credits : Shubhangi
Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
Known as “fortress of the glorious religion�, Tashichho Dzong, or popularly known as Thimphu Dzong, reflects on all the qualities of traditional Dzong architecture. The hierarchy in the brackets and cornices the subtle layering of different textures on the facade and the punctures and ornamented fenestrations are some of the architectural techniques which shape up interesting vignettes as a person moves around. 56
Photo Credits : Shubhangi
The Dzong has been the seat of Bhutan’s government since 1968. It presently houses the throne room and offices of the king, the cabinet secretariat and the ministries of home affairs and finance.
The entry to the Dzong portrays the structure as a protected monument. However, once you enter inside, the entire Dzong sort of envelopes you from all the sides and yet when you see through the interstitial spaces it seems to expand out endlessly. This is a result of the perspective that the overall scale of different structures and the details of the built language together generate.
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Photo Credits : Aneree Satra
60 Photo Credits : Harman
Day 7 : Punakha
We reach the town around noon. Soon after lunch we leave for visiting the Punakha Dzong. As heard from a local, this town had one of the best literacy rates in the country. Punakha was the capital of Bhutan and the seat of government until 1955, when the capital was moved to Thimphu. It is about 72 km away from Thimphu and it takes about 3 hours by car from the capital Thimphu. Unlike Thimphu it is quite warm in winter and hot in summer. It is located at an elevation of 1,200 meters above sea level and rice is grown as the main crop along the river valleys of two main rivers of Bhutan, the Pho Chu and Mo Chu. Dzongkha is widely spoken in this district. The whole area is spread over 1,096 square kilometers, with 1,891 households and a population of around 21,674 people. ( Sourced from Net) As we were strolling by the city, a sense of bewilderment set in. It was the result of the scale, the ratio of density of population to the expanse of the area and the backdrop of surrounding natural environment is starkly opposite to what we feel in our utter densely populated cities. Here again architecture and planning followed all the building codes. I could not spot any ad-hoc development. It sort of decluttered my mind as there was nothing to distract the mind on the outside. Strolling around, we were all wandering in our own minds. Here, getting away was like getting near to our own self. Post dinner the same day we all visited a karaoke bar. To our amazement, most of the songs were Hindi songs. It showed the admiration they have for our films and music.
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Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
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Punakha Dzong Walking towards the Punakha Dzong was a remarkable visual treat. The Dzong appears as a part of the natural layering of the context setting. The facade of whitewashed masonry walls with woodwork ornamentations seamlessly compliments the foreground and background and sits comfortably between the two major rivers proving to be a strategic location to protect it from invasion. The only way to approach the Dzong is to cross the bridge which also makes it a celebratory experience. 63
64 Photo Credits : TarjaniS.
The entrances to the Dzong were celebrated with subtle drama and strategy. At the point of various thresholds, visual frames were formed which added to the spatial depth of the area across it. Both built and unbuilt spaces flowed into each other and the experience was amplified with the drama of light and shadow. Transition of spaces in different part of the dzong provided the person moving across it with varying degree of intimacy and openness. The ever-present iconography on the woodwork and white-washed walls built up the entire language of the space. The iconography painted thus seemed a part of the built environment and not something just stuck upon.
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Divya attempting the local dance
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The Dzong had three Docheys (courtyard) instead of the usual two of which the first courtyard was used for public gathering and administrative functions. When we visited, the local villagers were practicing their local sacred dance- Drametse Ngacham ( meaning “mask dance of the drums from Drametse�)for their upcoming Punakha Tshechu festival. The dance started with just one person entering the courtyard area. As the beats of music intensified and the rhythm was set , more people joined in for the dance and eventually the entire area was filled up with everyone dancing. 67
Construction of house going on. This house was an extension to the adjoining house built by the family members themselves.
The kitchen area was a small hum requirements and a stove. Most fami
Even in village houses, there was a traditional facade with layers of brackets and cornices. The whitewashed walls had paintings on it.
There were some prayer flags also the village had their private compou fencing or a wall and some had their
One of the family we interacted with. The living room of the house was a small intimate space.
The cooking area built separately of a
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mble space stocked with the ilies even had a refrigerator.
o spotted. Some houses in unds demarcated with either r compound space shared.
a relatively small house.
Strolling in the village of Wangdue, Punakha After visiting the Punakha Dzong, we visited the nearby village where we interacted with the local villagers. It was interesting to see and know about the lifestyle and aspirations of the villagers. The first person we interacted with told us about the importance of education that the government portrays. He told us about how there are 26 schools for a population of 27000 people in Punakha district. One crucial point was that the government provides scholarships to students who have done well in school for their higher education. The person we interacted with himself studied on a scholarship in Bangalore. There seemed to be no such fierce competition in the job market. However, government jobs were tough to get in as for some 200 positions there were around 3000 applications. What we later noticed is books on physics by Indian authors. On asking about the same, he told us that the Indian government supports students tremendously by giving them scholarships. However, once someone studies anywhere outside of Bhutan, they would still want to return to their home country to work and have a comparatively peaceful life. We also met the Sarpanch of the village through whom we got to know of how there are people who are staying here on rent also. He told us about even though the area gets deserted in night because of lesser density of population compared to the city, it is still very safe with the crime rate being almost zero. One of the most important point mentioned by him was about how their is not a vast difference in the pay scale of people in Bhutan. Here, everyone has a balanced pay with the cost of education and healthcare borne by the government and thus there are vast no pay scale divides of being extremely rich or poor. The village settlement had all the kids going to a nearby school. All the people here where extremely welcoming. We all got a slice of how people live in the villages by interacting with different people over here. 69
Day 9 : BUMTHANG We reach Bumthang district late evening. In the night, our hotel had a view of the entire valley region gleaming with few lights from the houses below. Listening to the tranquil sound of water flowing from a nearby stream, we had discussions over our experience in Bhutan till now. These people had a strong sense of belonging and great pride too. The simplicity of 70
their everyday lifestyle even though filled with some difficulties was the reason for their contentment. From a local we got to know that even though Bhutan is already a carbon negative country, the government and the Bhutan foundation is working towards the research of changing climate. The locals made us aware about a ongoing project.
View of Kurjey Lhakang
The Himalayan Environmental Rhythms Observation and Evaluation System (HEROES) Project encourages hundreds of students and teachers to engage in observing their immediate environment to detect changes in how plants and wildlife respond to climate change. It was extremely fascinating to know how active the participation of the locals was.
Over a period of three days, we visited the Kurjey Lhakanj Monastery, Jakar Dzong and Simtokha Dzong. In the evening, we wandered around the market place at Jakar Town where again we interacted with the local shopkeepers. Again a similar response of near zero crime rate in that area from the locals proved the efficiency of the local governance in that area. 71
Construction site, Bhumtang After having a healthy Indian breakfast (everywhere in Bhutan Indian cuisine is available); we visited a construction site of a house for a monk. There the site engineers told us about the construction process. Most of the construction workers were from Bangalore, India. 72
Interacting with workers we got to know how they are now preferring to work in Bhutan instead of back home as the per day wage in Bhutan is 2.5 times more. These workers get paid anywhere around Rs.20,000 per month with living and food expenses taken care of by the monk for whom they were building the house.
airlifted to the capital city to get the best medical attention. Apart from medical reasons, these workers are also provided with air travel once every three months so that they can visit their countries in India. The workers were extremely satisfied with their working conditions in Bhutan. Even the working visa for these workers was easily procured. Ties between India and Bhutan in the development sector have always been very strong. In the 1950’s when Bhutan started drafting its first planned development policies, it realized that unless there were roads constructed to connect the land-locked country, not much development could be achieved. Thus in 1960’s for efficient execution of roadbuilding projects, Bhutan Engineering Service was established with technical experts mostly on deputation from the Central Public Works Department of India. This is one example of the strong ties between the two countries.
They told us about how kind their owner was. If at all any worker gets injured while working, the monk himself bears all the expenses. In an incident where one worker was severely injured and the local clinic suggested him to be admitted in a hospital, the owner got the injured worker
Aneree trying out her hand at painting
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Wandering in the Market After visiting the Jakar Dzong, Khurjey Lhakang, Punakha Dzong,Tashi Chho Dzong,etc we got a wide perspective on the administrative and religious architecture of Bhutan. Similarly at Thimphu and Punakha we got an insight of the lifestyle of locals . However, visit to a marketplace was crucial to gain an insight into the economic capabilities of a settlement. A market is a very 74
important public space for any city. It is through market spaces that all the trade and commerce majorly takes place especially with the people visiting the place from outside. The market place at Jakar town consisted of eateries, clothing, general stores, etc. We divided ourselves into groups and started interacting with the locals at the market.
The owner of one of the restaurants we visited told us about how many people go to India for their higher education but later on come back to reside in their native town. Generally these people either work for the government or open their own shops. The town had no problem of power and water supply. Also, people working at the shops earned enough to sustain themselves.
One very important thing we noticed was how females took the center stage in running the business and how their male counterparts happily helped them with taking care of their kids and other chores. Gender equality was not something to be fought for but rather something ingrained in the mindset of the society. 75
Day 11 : Paro We reach Paro at noon. Our first interaction with the city was waiting at the Paro International airport. It is the only international airport in Bhutan and landing a plane over here is so complicated that very few pilots are trained for it. Standing at the airport and gazing at the panoramic view gave us a glimpse of how integrated the past and future is in this land; of how rooted they are and yet are soaring high. 76
Later, we visit the Paro Ta Dzong museum. At the museum we saw documentation of the local dances and music. The museum gave us a great exposure into the landscape and belief system of Bhutan. Next day we trekked the to the Tiger’s Nest. The trek mesmerized us inside out. The thought that the journey is more important than the destination resonated with all of us.
When we were strolling around in the market area of Paro, we could see a lot of tourists around. Thimphu and Paro definitely have a certain imprint of western influence. Our last day in Bhutan, we roamed in the market for shopping. It was a very difficult experience to finally bid adieu to the place after having such an in-depth experience.
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78 Photo Credits : Prerna Kapoor
Musings With an inquisitive mind we visit places to seek both questions and answers. But sometimes the question itself turns out to be the answer; as we get so used to the given set notions that we sometimes forget to challenge the existing for achieving something better. Spending every minute there was like living in an alternate reality. A reality so firmly grounded, yet so dreamy. It is said that when you observe the tinniest of details; time travels slowly. But the contradiction arises when you enjoy those minute epiphanies arising while observing; as then time passes by smoothly and quickly. It is beyond our capacity to decide what situations will be handed down to us. But how we respond sensibly to it is what decides the future for us. The one biggest lesson learnt from visiting different cities and villages in Bhutan was that one cannot make a city grow just physically; but rather it is utmost important to first transform the socio,economic and political norms hindering it’s holistic development. The pedagogy of any governance plays a huge role in how it’s residents play their own roles well. For eg. in states where all the political matters are controlled by goons, it slowly negates out the interest that regular citizen has to actively participate in development issues. He forgets the power in himself. It takes a revolution to change this scenario. But if you consider a state where moral justice, gender equality,etc. is in the mindset in each and every individual; it acts as a catalyst to the holistic development and aides the process of working towards evolving an egalitarian society.
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